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spog posted:Oh, that's right: there aren't 100mm in 1m. That PVC stuff looks pretty awesome, but for some price comparison a 8*4 sheet of 3/3.6mm WBP exterior ply is £10-15. I'm quite particular and getting a bit OCD. If I use expensive materials it will take me twice as long planning it and doing it and trying to get it perfect. I think I'm better off actually just doing it in cheap material as I will worry about it less but actually get it done. I'll probably end up redoing it all in a few years time anyway... (I can use the stuff I pull out as patterns)
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Oct 31, 2016 22:37
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Go on, full carbon kitchenette.
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Oct 31, 2016 22:42
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I have been gradually doing annoying bitty jobs over the last 2 weeks. Got all the lights and indicators working this weekend (except the headlights and front fogs). MOT now looks like a possibility but i still have a fairly big list of small fiddly jobs: - Convince the tester at my local garage that he wants to MOT it for me (hes never done it before but has started doing other camper vans over the last 12 months so has no excuse!) - Get someone to come and help me bleed the brakes to get the air out of the back section as I cant shift it on my own. - adjust rear brakes (hopefully already there!) - Fit a rear axle breather valve and hose (was blocked so i removed it) - Fit passenger seat (4 bolts) - Wire up headlights and front fog lights (i've got it all wired to a multiplug in the cab so it just needs the tricky last couple of metres of loom with all the connectors on sorting out) - Wire up wipers (needs the final couple of metres of loom with correct plugs on) - re-plumb squirters - refit all heater demister pipes (need to clamp the fuckers on as they just fall off immediately) - Cable tie all wiring in place - Make Speedo work (had my speed sensor on an oscilloscope over the weekend and have worked out which pins do what so it should just need plugging in correctly and it should work...) - Sort out Rocker breathers/PCV system (got a catch can, need to make a bracket for it and run some hoses) - Make various brackets to secure the intake hoses and wiring loom in the engine bay - Fit rear reflectors. - Replace and refit coil (had to swap it and haven't finished fighting the replacement into the stupid bracket, so it is currently just wedged in place. I should move it to a nicer spot...) - Chemical metal/araldite the fuel return line into the fuel tank - Get enough of a tune on it so that it can get through the MOT emission test and drive to the test. - Fix batteries in properly (clamps now fitted but need to tweak my positive cable a bit as I've gone up a battery size and it doesn't fit properly now) - refit all wheel nuts - replace wiper blades I also want to: - change oil - Fit fuel gauge (just needs connectors crimping/soldering) - wire up air/fuel gauge (just need to solder a connector onto it) - Fit rear mudflaps. - Fit reversing camera and screen (not essential but i want it - all wiring done, just needs screen and camera attaching) - Replace solar panel cable (removed it when I was doing the roof panels) - replace leisure battery (has lost one section so will only go to 11V or so) - finish redoing leisure wiring so my interior lights and heater work (moved the leisure fuse box to a better spot, not quite finished putting it back) - replace the front window channel so I can open the windows. - fit door switch and make it turn on the interior lights - grind last screws out of roof hatch internal trim so I can get in there and put lots of butyl tape inside it to stop it dripping. then I can start on some interior build! Cakefool (or whatever your forums name is now!) - Might need to do an evening sketchup session with you as it is getting right on my tits trying to move everything around!
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Nov 16, 2016 22:55
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Tomarse posted:Cakefool (or whatever your forums name is now!) - Might need to do an evening sketchup session with you as it is getting right on my tits trying to move everything around! You have been busy! No problem, let me know when suits you and we can get together, feedback taking seconds means we should get to a layout you like pretty quickly, then it's into Cardboard-aided design verification! Name will change again, this ones poo poo. Get me on WhatsApp or email. I'll see where I got to with the last redesign.
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Nov 18, 2016 15:10
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I'm taking the Landie for an MOT in an hour. 
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Nov 18, 2016 15:20
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InitialDave posted:I'm taking the Landie for an MOT in an hour. Still got a couple of hours to go new car shopping afterwards.
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Nov 18, 2016 15:27
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spog posted:Still got a couple of hours to go new car shopping afterwards.
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Nov 18, 2016 15:35
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sidewalk gum posted:You have been busy! No problem, let me know when suits you and we can get together, feedback taking seconds means we should get to a layout you like pretty quickly, then it's into Cardboard-aided design verification! I'll give you a shout on whatsapp. Much easier to do it live rather than over email/message!. I think we have all the measurements of everything now and I've come up with more ideas with having been crawling around in the back a lot recently! InitialDave posted:I'm taking the Landie for an MOT in an hour. Did i mention that mine got through its last one without any advisories.... good luck! Just got my batteries clamped in and my solar panel, eberspacher, inverter and interior lights are now all wired but just need connectors fitting on the end. Not the quickest job as I've been trying to run the wiring tidily and have had to drill various holes to run them through panels. There are some massive structural box section runs where the landrover cab meets the marshalls body and making a route round them has been a bastard. Tomarse fucked around with this message at 15:46 on Nov 18, 2016 |
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Nov 18, 2016 15:42
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InitialDave posted:I think my fleet is big enough as it is! Do you have an empty kitchen sink without a sump sitting in it? No? Then you have room for another car. Seriously good luck with the MOT, I find them horribly stressful.
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Nov 18, 2016 15:47
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MOT failed on washer jets not working - the reservoir hose had a hole in it just above the water line, so it was sucking air instead, already fixed - and rear number plate light not illuminating. Yes it is, but the tester thinks it needs to be a central light that illuminates the whole plate, and mine has the standard Land Rover "clear bit in the bottom of the rear light" system, so it's shining on one side. I tried saying to him that that's how they are as standard, but he insisted he'd been told that by the DVSA, so I've had a chat with them. The lady I spoke to said it was probably ok, but it's getting passed up the chain, and I should have an answer in writing on Monday. I'll be very surprised if they have changed it so I need to modify the setup, they're normally pretty decent about grandfathering requirements for older designs. In the meantime, InitialDave fucked around with this message at 18:56 on Nov 18, 2016 |
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Nov 18, 2016 18:05
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I thought the rule was that if that was how the car was originally put on the road, then it would not fail an mot for it?
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Nov 19, 2016 02:41
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spog posted:I thought the rule was that if that was how the car was originally put on the road, then it would not fail an mot for it? However, the most direct solution to getting a ticket right now is to slap on an extra number plate light, and wait for the DVSA to give me an answer in writing.
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Nov 19, 2016 10:26
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Tomarse posted:- finish redoing leisure wiring so my interior lights and heater work (moved the leisure fuse box to a better spot, not quite finished putting it back) No more cold fingats: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wEUGJ1mFdYk Had to hit the lift pump with a hammer to unstick it, but then it started heating perfectly. I didn't even have to take the spark/glow plug out. loving amazing for its first start in probably 4 years. When I first got the truck and first got the heater fueling properly it backfired a couple of times and I thought i was going to die in a horrible explosion. Sitting for a month without the solar panel connected has seemingly totally hosed my leisure battery. Is it worth trying to empty it out and put baking soda in and then epsom salts (bearing in mind that it will seemingly cost me about £10-£15 for distilled water and epsom salt), or should I just spend the £80 on a new battery and pocket the £10 or so I will get when i weigh the old one in?
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Nov 19, 2016 14:32
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Tomarse posted:Sitting for a month without the solar panel connected has seemingly totally hosed my leisure battery. Is it worth trying to empty it out and put baking soda in and then epsom salts (bearing in mind that it will seemingly cost me about £10-£15 for distilled water and epsom salt), or should I just spend the £80 on a new battery and pocket the £10 or so I will get when i weigh the old one in? Assuming you can't bring it back to life with a good long charge on a proper home charger, I'd bin it and get a new one with a warranty. £80/ years is only £27/year - hardly worth the effort to bring the old one back from the dead when it;s near the end of its life anyway. spog fucked around with this message at 15:16 on Nov 19, 2016 |
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Nov 19, 2016 15:14
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Do you have a battery conditioner? I've found using a regular charger to get it to at least register, and then putting a conditioner on it, can do quite well even with pretty bad examples. Of course, if it's now completely lacking the slightest sign of a charge, it's probably beyond saving.
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Nov 19, 2016 15:26
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I don't have a conditioner, only a selection of chargers of different power levels from trickle to massive boost charger that will start a diesel Landy with a dead battery in freezing temps. Last winter the leisure battery had dropped to 6v or so after I neglected it but a week or so of overnight sessions on a charger with some load connected got it back up to over 12 - but it didn't hold it very well. It has been on the solar panel since then - but started pretty much every morning flashing the error light on the solar charge controller because its voltage was too low. This would go out after a sunny day. It's hosed isn't it. I like your maths justification - I'll buy a new one!
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Nov 19, 2016 15:37
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It does sound like it has been in and out of battery ICU and is simply not going to make it, I would replace it. Lead acids are quite recyclable, so not much actual environmental damage from replacing rather than heroically trying to make it last another few months. Since this is the leisure battery, deepcycle I assume?
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Nov 19, 2016 16:01
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kastein posted:It does sound like it has been in and out of battery ICU and is simply not going to make it, I would replace it. Lead acids are quite recyclable, so not much actual environmental damage from replacing rather than heroically trying to make it last another few months. Yes - it's a proper leisure deep cycle battery as opposed to a normal one. Was hesitant to buy one because in my experience they always die over the winter - but if I buy a 3yr warranty one and view at as a fixed annual consumable cost it is less objectionable. Just wired up the solar regulator control panel so that it is readable through the window from outside the truck so should be able to keep an eye on it now and hopefully won't let it die again. Am wondering how much the solar charge regulator would like it if I put a mains powered trickle charger, or even a normal mains 12-24v 1A power supply through the solar panel inputs too in order to top them up more? (I could put it on a timer to do 6 hours overnight)
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Nov 19, 2016 16:20
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My experience of (admittedly very cheap) solar battery chargers in UK weather hasn't been that stellar, and I far prefer my CTEK battery conditioners to keep cars topped up.
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Nov 19, 2016 16:28
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InitialDave posted:My experience of (admittedly very cheap) solar battery chargers in UK weather hasn't been that stellar, and I far prefer my CTEK battery conditioners to keep cars topped up. Yeah - I've also had some poo poo cheap ones in the past too. The one i have now is a slightly better and more expensive one, which has performed really well the few times i have used the van in the summer. Its still a chinese device which is sold under various names but the instructions have barely any engrish in which is always a sign of quality. Its one of these - http://www.sunstore.co.uk/EP-Solar-Duo-Battery-Solar-Charge-Controller-12-24v-10A.html and I have a remote screen for it too, which is really good as It shows both battery voltages and the charging current and voltage from the panel and has some handy indicator lights on. Bought it about 4 years ago now and you can still buy the same one - so it cant be too bad.
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Nov 19, 2016 16:50
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On a related matter: I just bought one of these and the quality of it (externally) has stunned me. It even comes in a quality zippered case. What annoys me is that it feels better than most of the consumer technology I've recently bought, yet it is destined to stay unused and untouched in my car boot.
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Nov 20, 2016 17:17
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Gave MOT bloke a copy of DVSA email I got saying my rear lighting is correct. He didn't seem overly thrilled, but eh, I don't want to have the same issue next time, and it's not like I was a dick about it.
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Nov 25, 2016 14:13
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InitialDave posted:Gave MOT bloke a copy of DVSA email I got saying my rear lighting is correct. He didn't seem overly thrilled, but eh, I don't want to have the same issue next time, and it's not like I was a dick about it. Slow progress here because I spent the last weekend making holes in my sisters house rather than doing anything at home. Because the weather got cold I decided that having a working heater was the priority and have started from the bottom of my previous list. Only 3 and a bit items crossed off but they are bigger ones. - Fit reversing camera - replace the front window channel so I can open the windows. - fit door switch and make it turn on the interior lights - grind last screws out of roof hatch internal trim so I can get in there and put lots of butyl tape inside it to stop it dripping. Had to start and move the 101 at 8am on Friday morning when it was about -3C and icy as I had blocked my other landrover full of building supplies into the drive. Having a heater is awesome for deicing the screen and this is my coldest startup so far and it actually started fine after a bit of cranking and a few flicks of the key to get some fuel pressure up from the pump. I need to tweak the priming pulse some more for the cold. Tomarse fucked around with this message at 20:36 on Nov 29, 2016 |
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Nov 29, 2016 20:25
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Tomarse posted:- replace the front window channel so I can open the windows. Gonna use the plastic stuff instead of metal ones?
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Nov 30, 2016 01:54
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meltie posted:Gonna use the plastic stuff instead of metal ones? I'd like to but I can't find where to buy it from! Any ideas? John Richards surplus has some stuff that is off something else (vehicle unknown - it will have come from a container of random ex-mil parts) which is very cheap and that I might be able to make work.
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Nov 30, 2016 09:31
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Tomarse posted:I'd like to but I can't find where to buy it from! Any ideas? Cor, it was a long time ago that I got mine. It was a really basic plastic U-channel that I cut to length. Didn't even have any felt in it. Was perfect for the Lighty. Got it directly from the Series 3 club: http://www.thelandroverclub.co.uk/fitting%20window%20channel%20.html http://www.ekmpowershop18.com/ekmps/shops/series3owners/window-channel-replacing-the-rotting-window-runners-14-c.asp 
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Dec 1, 2016 02:59
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Bit more progress. I have managed to start most of the fiddly jobs but haven't yet finished them all Ran out of petrol again yesterday. Eberspacher fuel pump is still picking up fuel when the engine fuel pump won't, so I think my engine fuel pump cradle must need a bit of adjusting as the Eber has a pick up pipe which is supposed to be higher than the engine pump so that you can't run it dry with the heater. Not going to worry too much about this as I can sort it when I replace the tank. Gonna park it facing uphill and keep a full jerry can handy. MOT Garage is closing for 10 days over Christmas so that they can paint the floor in the workshop. So I need to get it in for its initial MOT test (i'm sure its going to fail!) by the 21st Dec in order to get maximum value from my 'free retest within 10 working days. - - Get someone to come and help me bleed the brakes to get the air out of the back section as I cant shift it on my own. - adjust rear brakes (hopefully already there!) - Fit a rear axle breather valve and hose new breather purchased but needs tweaking a bit as I bought the £5 'very similar' part not the £40 'original' part - Fit passenger seat (4 bolts) - - Wire up wipers wiring all done but struggling to find the correct wiper motor wiring schematics so that it actually works - re-plumb squirters - refit all heater demister pipes (need to clamp the fuckers on as they just fall off immediately) - Cable tie all wiring in place partly done - Make Speedo work hopefully just now needs me to crawl under the truck and swap the connectors on the speed sensor round. have tested everything with an oscilloscope - - Make various brackets to secure the intake hoses and wiring loom in the engine bay half done - Fit rear reflectors. - Replace and refit coil - Chemical metal/araldite the fuel return line into the fuel tank - Get enough of a tune on it so that it can get through the MOT emission test and drive to the test It now seems to start, tick over and sit stationary at 2-3k revs all at a sensible air/fuel ratio so hopefully i've got a chance of passing an MOT emissions test - - refit all wheel nuts - replace wiper blades - change oil - Fit fuel gauge (just needs connectors crimping/soldering) - wire up air/fuel gauge (just need to solder a connector onto it) - Fit rear mudflaps. - replace the front window channel so I can open the windows. - fit door switch and make it turn on the interior lights - grind last screws out of roof hatch internal trim so I can get in there and put lots of butyl tape inside it to stop it dripping. quote:
I need to get them to confirm if they sell those kits as one long length or cut to length as a 101 door top is slightly steeper than a series so I need an extra inch or two at the top. Have emailed them. now waiting for an answer.
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Dec 4, 2016 21:40
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Have got poo poo loads of things crossed off my list including getting my fuel gauges working and my A/F gauge wired up. Speedo is now also wired up correctly. Need to go for a drive to test it.  Remaining todo list: 
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Dec 7, 2016 19:35
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Tomarse posted:Have got poo poo loads of things crossed off my list including getting my fuel gauges working and my A/F gauge wired up. Please say that the buttons on the wheel do something!
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Dec 7, 2016 22:35
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Just noticed that my A/F gauge says SOS when its reading max (the engine is off in the photo. the megasquirt gauge would be pegged at 20-something)meltie posted:Please say that the buttons on the wheel do something! Not at the moment i'm afraid, but i'm not averse to wiring them up to do something! (the other side has the cruise decel button).
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Dec 7, 2016 22:47
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Tomarse posted:Not at the moment i'm afraid, but i'm not averse to wiring them up to do something! (the other side has the cruise decel button). 
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Dec 7, 2016 23:36
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MOT booked for this coming Thursday as '10 working days' then lasts until 3rd Jan. Cross everything. Got pretty much everything big crossed of my list today with the exception of final brake bleeding and adjustment and my stupid windscreen washers which despite new nozzles and pipe and an expensive new one way valve in the reservoir keep draining back into the reservoir and airlocking unless I suck screenwash through and prime them every time. Getting quite pissed off as to get at it all you have to work upside down in the footwell/get stabbed in the ribs by the door sill/have an extra arm joint and 3 hands. Currently blaming the connectors on the new Range Rover washer pump that I had to buy to replace my knackered one which is identical to the one from 1980 except for in the size and location of the inlet/outlets which are now too small and too close together.
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Dec 11, 2016 01:44
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Tomarse posted:MOT booked for this coming Thursday as '10 working days' then lasts until 3rd Jan. Cross everything.
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Dec 11, 2016 17:26
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InitialDave posted:Maybe try an inline non-return valve near the jets? If i go out there tomorrow morning and it has run back past the pump again I shall definitely be purchasing a inline non return valve to put right before the 1st jet! Took the door off so I could get in there properly and then spent ages getting the pump off and then taking the system apart and putting fuel hose clamps on all the joints. When I gave up and came in just now it hadn't run back after 30 mins or so. Have also just realised that I never got round to sorting out the handbrake which works but is right at the top of its travel and MOT guy will definitely fail me on that. Its a stupid design compared to the series as you appear to have to drop the prop off to get the drum off and the adjuster is one of the little flicky cog style ones that you do through an access hole in the drum not a nice easy hex/square on the backplate 
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Dec 11, 2016 19:02
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What happens when you are driving round the yard in a forward control trying to do emergency stops to test your brakes and one of the heater hoses decides to pop. Very glad that I had the engine cover installed as without it I would likely have been scalded since the heater hose was about 6 inches from my left thigh. This was about 5 minutes later after I had managed to park it without my glasses on and gone in to find my camera.   It also soaked the starter motor which caused the solenoid to pop its fuse which confused me for a few minutes. Had help from a mate today to try and get the brakes working. Was unable to bleed the air out of the back by myself partly because the nipples are recessed into the backplate and really hard to get at. So I bought some longer nipples in the hopes that they would make it easier and fitted them today  These BIG NIPS make bleeding so much easier! Gonna get 4 for my other landrover! They are 3/8UNF thread nipples for Jaguar E TYPE/XJ6/XJ12 Front calipers (which are what my Zeus front calipers are). I think my vacuum bleeder might even work on these bad boys (they are also much tighter and more precise than the lovely landrover ones) bled some air out of the back but didn't make the brakes much better and we concluded that the brake servo/booster is hosed. Have a vacuum leak coming out between the master cylinder and the servo which got worse as we pumped the brakes to bleed them. At the moment I have a Landrover 110 1987- Master Cylinder mated to a Saab 900 1979-86 servo. Going to change to the landrover servo that matches the master cyl as someone now makes a proper adapter plate to bolt it to the pedal box.
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Dec 14, 2016 00:16
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I had to cancel my MOT because my parts didn't arrive in time Have now fitted a new brake booster/servo and my brakes are now feeling much better and i can feel the servo working if I start the engine with my foot on the brakes. On my gravel test pan I can lock the brakes up in reverse but going forwards is not quite as good - I am hoping that they just need to bed in some more since the rear shoes are all new and the front discs both rusty from having sat. Not sure if i need to adjust the apportioning valve too. Had to adjust the IAC valve steps slightly as replacing the servo clearly removed a vacuum leak and dropped my idle. I'm sure it sounds better at idle too now! Was thinking that I might book it in for its test again on Monday, however it did this when I was trying to park it up:  Ball joint at the end of the tie rod snapped. I am going to rebuild the ball joints at both ends and replace all the other old track rod ends that are down there since I am now worried that they will be the same. I think that taking it all apart is going to be a bit of a mission. Most of the fixings down there seem to be imperial rather than metric and that always seems to make it harder!
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Dec 18, 2016 21:27
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Don't forget there's two kinds of rod end, with and without a plain section on them. No idea which the 101 uses. If it's some kind of 101-specific oddity, might it be cheaper to make a custom rod that takes standard ends?
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Dec 18, 2016 23:17
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InitialDave posted:Don't forget there's two kinds of rod end, with and without a plain section on them. No idea which the 101 uses. The complete tie rod ends are indeed 101 specific and are £150 each for the complete assembly Fortunately there is a rebuild kit which is £4. The drag link uses standard LR ends (I don't think they are the series ones but were stolen from something else) which are £28 each for the entire assembly - which is more reasonable!
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Dec 18, 2016 23:51
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You know, outside of the Land Rover world, £150 isn't that bad, in global terms.
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Dec 19, 2016 01:18
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Trying to strip the ball joints down so I can rebuild them. This snapped bastard is totally rusted in place. I have no idea what was happening when I turned the wheel or moved anywhere not totally flat. I assume it was just flexing the tie rod and moving the other ball joint too. Have just spent 45 minutes attacking it in the vice and my vice has bent before the ball has moved. Have just drilled the ball though and tapped it to M6 before snapping the bolt off in it. Its now sitting full of WD40 and I shall drill it out to M10 tomorrow morning and use this as an excuse to replace my 5 year old machine mart/clarke vice with the much more solid looking old one I picked up a while back.
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Jan 7, 2017 20:12
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