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Another LF gear question! Anyone have recommendations for a relatively inexpensive spot meter? Preferably under $250 usd. I don't need flash metering or anything like that. I've got a small handheld sekonic that does great incident and reflective but no spot, so I can use that for now but would prefer to get a spot meter for LF. The only one I can find in that price range seems to be the Pentax Honeywell 1/21, but that takes some combination of 9v and mercury batteries that I'm not crazy on trying to make sure I get correct. Every once in a while it seems Sekonic L-508s go for as low as 250 on ebay which would be ideal, but if there's something that may be a bit easier to find in that price range I'm all ears.
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Aug 20, 2020 05:26
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SMERSH Mouth posted:drat, did you buy one that was EXC+++++++ instead of Near MINT-? These days seems like EXC means broken somehow, no matter the number of pluses. Ask me about my returned EXC Pentax 67s that had shutter drag above 1/125, or delaminated focus screens (easy fix tho), or just straight up couldn’t mount a lens. CodfishCartographer posted:Another LF gear question! Anyone have recommendations for a relatively inexpensive spot meter? Preferably under $250 usd. I don't need flash metering or anything like that. I've got a small handheld sekonic that does great incident and reflective but no spot, so I can use that for now but would prefer to get a spot meter for LF. The only one I can find in that price range seems to be the Pentax Honeywell 1/21, but that takes some combination of 9v and mercury batteries that I'm not crazy on trying to make sure I get correct. Every once in a while it seems Sekonic L-508s go for as low as 250 on ebay which would be ideal, but if there's something that may be a bit easier to find in that price range I'm all ears. Minolta Spotmeter.
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Aug 20, 2020 05:42
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CodfishCartographer posted:Another LF gear question! Anyone have recommendations for a relatively inexpensive spot meter? Preferably under $250 usd. I don't need flash metering or anything like that. I've got a small handheld sekonic that does great incident and reflective but no spot, so I can use that for now but would prefer to get a spot meter for LF. The only one I can find in that price range seems to be the Pentax Honeywell 1/21, but that takes some combination of 9v and mercury batteries that I'm not crazy on trying to make sure I get correct. Every once in a while it seems Sekonic L-508s go for as low as 250 on ebay which would be ideal, but if there's something that may be a bit easier to find in that price range I'm all ears. I think the Minolta Spotmeter F is pretty much exactly what you're looking for.
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Aug 20, 2020 05:47
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Picking up a 500cm tomorrow. Very excited. Who has One Weird Trick?
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Aug 20, 2020 09:42
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Its good and cooland the one weird trick is that there are like 40 weird tricks and they all make a lot of sense. But the best i can say is, have a procedure when shooting and loading so you don’t gently caress it all up because everything has a specific order, and also the best way to hold it is with your left hand under it, index finger on the release when its time to take the picture, and right hand to work the shutter aperture and focus.
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Aug 20, 2020 09:46
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WLF is lyfe. Darkslide discipline will save you from many common frustrations - make sure you put it somewhere safe and obvious when you take it out, and make sure it's fully seated when you reinsert it.
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Aug 20, 2020 11:22
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SMERSH Mouth posted:drat, did you buy one that was EXC+++++++ instead of Near MINT-? These days seems like EXC means broken somehow, no matter the number of pluses. Ask me about my returned EXC Pentax 67s that had shutter drag above 1/125, or delaminated focus screens (easy fix tho), or just straight up couldn’t mount a lens. I expected the lens to have all sorts of issues because it was ~$300 cheaper than all the other copies that had "no haze/fungus/separation/scratches", fortunately the lens looks perfect. But LOL yes, I saw dozens of "EXC+++++" that had haze/fungus/separation/scratches.
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Aug 20, 2020 13:17
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beergod posted:Picking up a 500cm tomorrow. Very excited. Who has One Weird Trick? If you take the lens off and trigger the shutter on the body, the lens can lock up when you put it back on the body. The lens and body need to both be cocked or uncocked when you put them together AFAIK. Not catastrophic, but it's annoying to get fixed. That's really the only fussy thing I know about that camera.
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Aug 20, 2020 13:48
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So I have three TLRs sitting around in various states of disrepair and am trying to decide which one to get fixed: Walzflex: I've never shot with it, but it was gifted to me by someone who worked at the Tonight Show with Steve Allen in the 50's. Steve apparently gave these to everyone on the crew one year, so it's got a cool story! Focus knob is slow, but shutter and aperture seem to work. Needs new front leatherette. Zeiss Ikoflex: I've shot the most with this, and like the way it's photos look, but it's also probably got the murkiest viewfinder. Focus knob is pretty tight, and I think the shutter is starting to gum up. Yashica 24: I've never shot with this, because I thought it was 220 only for years. I noticed a 120 Film Alignment sticker the other day, and did some reading, turns out it works just fine for 120! It focuses well, but I can't get the shutter or aperture blades to move at all. Of the three, this has the fastest viewing lens (2.8, vs. 3.5 for the others). The taking lenses for all 3 cameras are basically the same. Needs new front leatherette. ergonomically it seems like this is probably the nicest to use, with the shutter and aperture windows on top. Of the 3 which would you get repaired? My gut tells me to get a quote for the Yashica, but it also has the most wrong with it.... frogbs fucked around with this message at 21:08 on Aug 20, 2020 |
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Aug 20, 2020 21:06
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CodfishCartographer posted:Another LF gear question! Anyone have recommendations for a relatively inexpensive spot meter? Preferably under $250 usd. I don't need flash metering or anything like that. I've got a small handheld sekonic that does great incident and reflective but no spot, so I can use that for now but would prefer to get a spot meter for LF. The only one I can find in that price range seems to be the Pentax Honeywell 1/21, but that takes some combination of 9v and mercury batteries that I'm not crazy on trying to make sure I get correct. Every once in a while it seems Sekonic L-508s go for as low as 250 on ebay which would be ideal, but if there's something that may be a bit easier to find in that price range I'm all ears. i have a spot meter and still use incident 99% of the time with LF
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Aug 20, 2020 23:13
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frogbs posted:So I have three TLRs sitting around in various states of disrepair and am trying to decide which one to get fixed: The only one of these I have any experience shooting with is a Yashica - mine's a Yashica Mat 124 but I can't imagine it's that much different. That being said, based on your descriptions the first one will likely be the cheapest / easiest CLA since it's mostly just replacing the leatherette, which is relatively easy. The other two will need opening up for cleaning the mechanisms which is more involved / expensive. If you don't really care about the cost of repairing, then I'd probably go for whichever one you think is most comfortable ergonomically for you. Which sits better in your hands, which do you find easier to compose and focus with, which has controls that make sense to you, etc. That being said, I love my Yashica, so I'd vote for that I guess
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Aug 20, 2020 23:23
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If the Yashica has the Yashinon lenses, that's the nicest of the three cameras. Crank advance is also considered nicer than knob advance. It's also going to be the most likely to have someone with any experience working on it. All three are fine choices though. The Yashica is probably the technically best camera, the Ikoflex is Zeiss, and the Walzflex has a cool story.
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Aug 21, 2020 01:38
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Paul MaudDib posted:If the Yashica has the Yashinon lenses, that's the nicest of the three cameras. Crank advance is also considered nicer than knob advance. It's also going to be the most likely to have someone with any experience working on it. The Yashica does have Yashinon lenses! I think that’s the one I’ll try to get a quote for. Thanks!
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Aug 21, 2020 01:47
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Megabound posted:Rick Oleson will do his screens up to 4x5 and they're great. I got one for my horseman, which already had a fresnel, and it made a vast improvement. I may or may not buy one of those screens but the website was worth a visit regardless. Green text on black background, link to google titled “this is a really good search engine”, link to the onion titled “where I get my news”, and a full section dedicated to the time he found a roach in his chocolate malt at a Kentucky Dairy Queen in 2007, complete with disgusting image of roach taken after he spit it out. Edit: had to google to find it though, that link didn’t work. Also my vote is for the ikoflex, although the novar lens is probably not as good as the yashinon. Not all ikoflexes are good looking but that model is. SMERSH Mouth fucked around with this message at 21:00 on Aug 21, 2020 |
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Aug 21, 2020 20:55
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My Chamonix arrived!  still waiting on the lens though. Speaking of which, how do I know which hole to pit the front standard into? I know it depends on the lense, but I was surprised there weren't clear markings, since most everything else on the camera is very clearly marked.
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Aug 21, 2020 23:08
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I have an Ikonta 521/16 with the Novar 3.5 and it’s still a very fun camera, I treat it like a toy camera, like lomo but not as extreme. It’s real fun paired with “ultra color” style films or Ektar 100, the lens is not a resolution monster (it’s your standard fast triplet) but those films suit the aesthetic well. I also think repairs are going to be tougher on the ikoflex let alone if the repair guy breaks something and needs parts. The Yashicas and Rolleis and Mamiyas (and to a lesser extent the Autocord) are where the third party support has pretty much converged on these days. (Oh, it’s also basically a certainty that the leather will crumble on any of these when the tech takes it apart so figure on replacing it. There are sites and eBay sellers who specialize in precut kits or if you can’t find one that fits you can buy blank sheets and cut your own. If you send it with the camera then they’ll probably do it for you  .)
Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 06:50 on Aug 22, 2020 |
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Aug 22, 2020 06:42
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CodfishCartographer posted:My Chamonix arrived! You just kind of figure it out over time. I use the hole closest to the rear standard for my 90mm, second closest for my 135mm and the one furthest away for my 210mm. That said, I'm shooting at or near infinity all the time so I don't rack it out very far, so your YMMV.
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Aug 22, 2020 16:16
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eggsovereasy posted:You just kind of figure it out over time. I use the hole closest to the rear standard for my 90mm, second closest for my 135mm and the one furthest away for my 210mm. That said, I'm shooting at or near infinity all the time so I don't rack it out very far, so your YMMV. Yep, this. IIRC the holes are 30mm apart, so they go 90/120/150/180/210 with the rear standard flush with the back of the bed. I like to keep the rear standard a few mm forward of that.
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Aug 22, 2020 19:18
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What’s the group consensus on a scanner for 120 negatives?
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Aug 23, 2020 09:51
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beergod posted:What’s the group consensus on a scanner for 120 negatives? V600 for 35mm/120 only, V700/800/etc if you ever intend to go large format. If you require maximum resolution recovery at the cost of several thousand dollars your options become Nikon Coolscan 9000 ED, Imacon, and other ludicrously expensive options.
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Aug 23, 2020 10:17
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beergod posted:What’s the group consensus on a scanner for 120 negatives? Epson v550 or newer like mentioned in the post above, but also probably budget in some ANR glass film holders so you don't get newton's rings which are a pain to deal with (getting the film perfectly flat in the holder). You're not going to use the super high resolution scanning of some scanners because it can take over 15 min per frame so keep that in mind if you start looking at coolscans. Wild EEPROM can talk about his experiences with a coolscan. If you're wanting to see what the results can look like on the affordable side of things, every film photo on my flickr that doesn't have DSLR EXIF data is scanned with an epson v550 and normal holders (and shot with a pentax 6x7).
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Aug 23, 2020 10:34
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beergod posted:What’s the group consensus on a scanner for 120 negatives? The leap from a V700 to the next thing will set you back ~$15k: https://petapixel.com/2017/05/01/16000-photo-scanner-vs-500-scanner/ I've read good things about the Epson V700/800 when using wet mounting. theHUNGERian fucked around with this message at 19:33 on Aug 23, 2020 |
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Aug 23, 2020 15:39
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theHUNGERian posted:The leap from a V700 to the next thing will set you back ~$15k: https://petapixel.com/2017/05/01/16000-photo-scanner-vs-500-scanner/ There's a Plustek 120 scanner thats supposed to be good -- https://plustek.com/us/products/film-photo-scanners/opticfilm-120-pro/index.php I think they might be in the middle of transitioning to a new version, so they seem to not be in stock anywhere, but I remember the previous version being like $1500, so still pretty expensive.
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Aug 23, 2020 17:22
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eggsovereasy posted:There's a Plustek 120 scanner thats supposed to be good -- https://plustek.com/us/products/film-photo-scanners/opticfilm-120-pro/index.php Cool. I'll have to look into that once I get tired of having my films scanned.
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Aug 23, 2020 19:33
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i would wait for the new plustek 120 but it might be another year or two
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Aug 23, 2020 20:09
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ansel autisms posted:i would wait for the new plustek 120 but it might be another year or two https://www.amazon.com/Plustek-OpticFilm-120-pro-Support/dp/B089CXPYBG
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Aug 23, 2020 21:11
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oh gently caress it actually materialized?
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Aug 23, 2020 21:13
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ansel autisms posted:oh gently caress it actually materialized? Pricy My local places charge like 25 a roll to develop and scan though I’m also debating a lab box to develop my stuff at home. It’s only $6 for the labs to develop only though. One way to do it would be to pick up a scanner and have the lab develop only. I’m sure I’ll shoot more than 100 rolls
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Aug 23, 2020 21:18
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i have my local lab develop (2.95/4x5 sheet for c41/e6) because it's way more economical in the long run to do scanning myself and developing sucks rear end
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Aug 23, 2020 22:23
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Sorry for more noob questions. I know that I need to get off my rear end and just start shooting, and that will happen once the (functional) body arrives (next week, fingers crossed). Until then ... 1. With my MILC, I always use the bulb blower to remove potential dust on the senor whenever I am changing lenses. How paranoid should I be with a MF camera? When should I clean which parts of the camera to minimize the impact of dust/particles on my images? 2. I have been perfectly happy with Capture One for editing my MILC raw files (I rarely spend more than 2 minutes on an image). What limitations can I expect when editing scans which would be in tiff(?) format? I briefly played with a sample file and noticed that I can't correct for pincushion distortion and chromatic aberration. Suppose I can live with this, are there any other drawbacks for not using Photoshop? How would I fix general pincushion distortion and chromatic aberration on a tiff file in Capture One? ansel autisms posted:i have my local lab develop (2.95/4x5 sheet for c41/e6) because it's way more economical in the long run to do scanning myself and developing sucks rear end I do some work in a cleanroom where I do quite a bit of lithography and I can confirm that developing can suck rear end.
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Aug 24, 2020 00:40
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theHUNGERian posted:Sorry for more noob questions. I know that I need to get off my rear end and just start shooting, and that will happen once the (functional) body arrives (next week, fingers crossed). Until then ... 1. I don't think I've ever dusted my MF camera in a decade. Maybe the occasional blowing of the lens but even those don't really affect the image. You can't even blow the "sensor" anyway. 2. CA is a lot rarer on film but it's pretty easy to correct on Lightroom so I'm not sure about C1 or PS. General pincushion distortion is also easily fixed in LR, just move the distortion slider appropriately.
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Aug 24, 2020 01:58
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alkanphel posted:1. I don't think I've ever dusted my MF camera in a decade. Maybe the occasional blowing of the lens but even those don't really affect the image. You can't even blow the "sensor" anyway. I was thinking of blowing obvious dust particles away from the area behind the film (before loading the film) as that might cause a bump in the film (and thus an uneven focus plane, a scratch, defect during developing if it sticks to the film), but I guess that's not really a thing to worry about. I moved to C1 to get away from Adobe's subscription model. But does the LR distortion slider work on tiff files or just raws? Either way, I am happy that PS does not seem to be a hard requirement to edit MF scans. Maybe a more recent version of C1 allows me to adjust the distortion slider for tiff files. I'll investigate.
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Aug 24, 2020 02:14
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theHUNGERian posted:I was thinking of blowing obvious dust particles away from the area behind the film (before loading the film) as that might cause a bump in the film (and thus an uneven focus plane, a scratch, defect during developing if it sticks to the film), but I guess that's not really a thing to worry about. If you can't really see the dust with your eye, it doesn't really matter, you can clone out later after scanning - there will be a lot of dust on the film anyway after development. But yeah no harm giving it a quick blow occasionally. The LR distortion slider definitely works on film tiffs too. That said, depending on what you're doing to or with the film scans, PS might be needed.
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Aug 24, 2020 04:02
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alkanphel posted:1. I don't think I've ever dusted my MF camera in a decade. I use a blower on the mirror and ground glass sometimes just because it annoys me.
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Aug 24, 2020 04:13
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Which light meter for flash?
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Aug 24, 2020 05:19
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eggsovereasy posted:I use a blower on the mirror and ground glass sometimes just because it annoys me. Oh I do wipe my ground glass if there's way too much dust, but that's easy since Hasselblads have removable screens.
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Aug 24, 2020 08:50
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Any recommendations for a long lens support? I have a 350 mm lens for an RZ67, but unfortunately the lens didn't come with the standard support bracket, nor can I find one on ebay. I don't want to use the lens without the support bracket. Amazon has a few options in the $50 range. Are they any good or is the RRS worth every cent?
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Aug 25, 2020 03:35
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theHUNGERian posted:Any recommendations for a long lens support? I have a 350 mm lens for an RZ67, but unfortunately the lens didn't come with the standard support bracket, nor can I find one on ebay. I don't want to use the lens without the support bracket. Amazon has a few options in the $50 range. Are they any good or is the RRS worth every cent? Here's an original for £80 and shipping. I didn't know RRS made a lens bracket for the RZ, but don't give Joe Johnson money if you can avoid it.
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Aug 25, 2020 03:51
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Yond Cassius posted:Here's an original for £80 and shipping. Thanks! You have some serious skills. I used various combos of search terms for over an hour and found nothing.
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Aug 25, 2020 13:16
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I've been wanting to take the plunge into LF for a while now (I've done/do a lot of 120 developing and printing and it seemed like a fun natural next step), and after having been scared off of Intrepid by this thread, found this listing: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tachihara-...10AAOSw8RtfFiSM Which, it certainly looks like a Tachihara to my untrained eyes, and more importantly, seems like a good deal considering the Fujinon 150 5.6 is the lens I was going to get anyway, and the 3 film holders and loupe are a nice toss in as well. I know the default recommendation is Chamonix, but, does this look like a good bet to you all?
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Aug 26, 2020 19:06
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