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digger_smolkin
Feb 23, 2007

Any Problem Solved

Is A New Problem Made


cursedshitbox posted:

hopefully the db2 will be happier with it. I want everything to last.

Are you using a lubricity additive in your fuel? Diesel was a lot thicker when these things were made. My '94 idi-t prefers DieselKleen (gray bottle) but anything is better than nothing. Modern ULSD just don't lube up a DB2 proper.

Truck is gorgeous! I was gonna do a thread soon about getting mine ready for a 3000mi X-mas voyage but now I'm intimidated.

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digger_smolkin
Feb 23, 2007

Any Problem Solved

Is A New Problem Made


Well now you got me wanting to go look at my oil cooler, but it's dark and I'm scared (of what I'll find.)
Just did both batteries and all cables on mine, agree that having a solid electrical system kicks rear end.

e: OK. It's ugly but not leaking. The ends are only very slightly flaky. I just stuck my derpy cheap camera in there and then looked at the pics, but your buttscope is neat and I kinda want one.

digger_smolkin fucked around with this message at 00:27 on Nov 2, 2016

digger_smolkin
Feb 23, 2007

Any Problem Solved

Is A New Problem Made


clam ache posted:

Just Ford things.

Ah, but you see, Ford makes it; International shakes it.

Is it the cooler that's leaking still or just the rear endcap-to-block seal?

digger_smolkin
Feb 23, 2007

Any Problem Solved

Is A New Problem Made


Timing is everything on these. There are places to rent meters, and you really do need one to get the best mileage.

When I put this and a K-type TC in I just drilled and tapped the driver-side manifold, between 3 & 4, from the bottom while engine was running. This did not appear to damage my turbo. I used a lot of high-temp grease and brand-new bits and got it done in about a minute before things started to get too warm. Pretty sure all chips were caught by grease or blown back out hole.

digger_smolkin
Feb 23, 2007

Any Problem Solved

Is A New Problem Made


cursedshitbox posted:

That gauge is "meh" because its gets the leftovers of a huge load going through a little tiny tube.


gauge is piggy backed off the ignition circuit which is obviously undersized. what you're seeing is 160A of glowplugs running however. they're on their own power feed, as is the alternator. both 4ga.

The alternator is adequate for most of everything, but not enough for that old rear end winch or those glowplugs.

These suckers idle pretty low compared to every other engine Ford put them on, and my voltmeter doesn't show 14.5 until the throttle is goosed up to 850-900rpm. I have the factory setup still (3G) but the other, older idis I had did it too.
Prime example of

clam ache posted:

Just Ford things.

Is your fast idle solenoid present and working? A trick some people do for a little more excitement (/pun) is to put it on a switch for manual high idle. You still have to "set" the throttle manually, but the solenoid will hold it there. Just be sure that you are switching the solenoid ONLY, you don't need your cold-start timing advance (oem, on same feed) for winching; at least, you shouldn't.

digger_smolkin
Feb 23, 2007

Any Problem Solved

Is A New Problem Made


There's some coolers for sale on oilburners in the marketplace. Here's a '94 one for $50

digger_smolkin
Feb 23, 2007

Any Problem Solved

Is A New Problem Made


Atmus posted:

When you were doing the interior, did you take the side panels in the footwells off? I know Ford used the same cab for 17 years, but I wondered if they ever filled in the footwell vent hole or if they just kept bolting a plate over it.

My '94 has the vent block-off plate. I know because I had the kick panels off while attempting to fix the plastic toy dash that they put in the OBS trucks (92-96). I would (almost) trade the turbo for the metal dash you brick- and slant-nose people have. Don't take it for granted.

digger_smolkin
Feb 23, 2007

Any Problem Solved

Is A New Problem Made


So...having never owned a 4x4 IDI I wouldn't know, but if changing the pivot bearings on a TTB is anything like the ones on the standard 2WD twin I-beam, it can get really ugly, so have a good shop on call to help if needed. The ones on my '84 required an 80-ton press and a dozen rounds of blue wrench/ air hammer but then again, the shop I brought the axles to said they had never seen anyone replace those on a 2wd so maybe it was just me? (Tried to replace the kingpins on that truck also, but would. not. budge. All the beating freed them up enough to work again so re-installed and went another 50K on them)

Any way, good luck and may your diesel injection always be indirect!

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digger_smolkin
Feb 23, 2007

Any Problem Solved

Is A New Problem Made


cursedshitbox posted:


Hey cool this looks like a $20 starter relay instead of a $90 "glow plug controller"

It is!

(the coil polarity is reversed!)

That's exactly what I did to my GP controller...except I went manual with it, just left the controller in place but with the "control board" disconnected. The factory placement for the turbo GP controller is slightly less scary when working (if you are a tool-dropping spazz like me) and worth swapping to if you ever find some turbo parts. Just make sure you use a decent quality relay, I have had a cheapo stick "on". Which is "not fun" unless your turn-ons include swollen tips (GPs, that is)

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