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I hope this thread doesn't disappear ever because I have a 7.3 IDI that this entire thread will be informative on if I ever have to do any serious under the hood work. Thankfully mine seems to be in really great shape for being as old as I am.
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Sep 8, 2017 21:07
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cursedshitbox posted:
This is mostly greek to me, but thank you for chiming in. I am a very cheap person because I have to be. What bushings are you referring to? Just the pivot bushing? How difficult would it be to replace them by myself in my apartment parking lot? I don't have a lot of serious mechanic tools, or the budget for them, or anywhere to put them. I definitely don't have any way to safely compress and install shocks. Admiral Bosch fucked around with this message at 15:18 on Sep 9, 2017 |
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Sep 9, 2017 05:49
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edit: pretty sure google is working so disregard those questions Admiral Bosch fucked around with this message at 17:45 on Sep 9, 2017 |
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Sep 9, 2017 17:12
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How much more worth it would it be to swap out my leaf springs to coil springs? And if I'm going that far, would it just be worth it to swap to a solid front axle?
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Sep 9, 2017 20:00
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I took mine in to get looked over and holy god in heaven. Either I do it myself and maybe gently caress something up or I pay 3500 dollars to have a ton of poo poo replaced. They want to replace front upper and lower ball joints + ball joint alignment, front spring and shackle bushings, all the TTB axle u-joints, and even though they didn't say anything about shock absorbers, I'm almost certain they need replacing. I don't know how to fix any of that myself, although I could certainly try, but I don't even know where to begin with what tools I would need to get. I'm going to take it for a second opinion/price quote. How bad does that sound? Am I probably getting fleeced?
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Sep 23, 2017 17:49
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Hey shitbox, can I ask some more questions? I'm having issues with the loving glow plug controller setup. Last year when I had the clicking issues, just replacing the plugs themselves solved it, but they cropped up again almost a year to the day, so I did it again, but I still got clicking. So, I replaced just the relay, and that... sort of fixed it. It'll cycle for about 5-10 seconds, then the WTS light shuts off and it starts clicking again. Turning the key off and on again doesn't do it again, it just goes straight to clicking for the whole cycle. Any advice short of buying a multimeter and/or just replacing the whole controller?
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Mar 2, 2018 02:00
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Mine's an 89 7.3. Somehow this happened to my relay, which is why I thought this was just the problem in the first place. All my cables look clean and intact, with the possible exception of the single yellow cable on the second large terminal. That one looked a little worn; some soldering could do it but I don't have any way of doing that, so I wrapped it in electrical tape and hoped for the best. Everything else is good, including the ground. Is it possible the kind of glowplugs I got would make a difference? I bought these mostly because it was cheap as a set, but they were also advertised as being hotter for cold weather, and I've been having trouble doing cold weather starts this winter. https://www.amazon.com/Wellman-1988...TQWWVBP7YAM186B
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Mar 2, 2018 04:16
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cursedshitbox posted:holyfuck... you didnt... 
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Mar 2, 2018 05:02
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sharkytm posted:Yeah, they're really picky about the parts. You also can't get an aftermarket GP relay, because 90% of them aren't actually right and short out to the mounting tabs. I'm super duper uninitiated with electrical poo poo in general. How would I go about using a multimeter to check if my new relay is hosed, and/or tell me if there's some way of closing the short. Talk to me like I'm an idiot baby, because I surely am. It's this one, from BWD. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...1989/ford/f-250 edit: just ponied up for the Beru ZD9s, we'll see what that does edit 2: I popped one into place, tightened down, checked resistance against the Dieselhub troubleshooting page, which says brand new Motorcraft ZD9s should read .3-.5 ohms, but I'm getting about .8 on the first one, and that's the best reading. It's pretty wildly inconsistent. The page says probe the tip of the plug and the top of the engine block near where the plug rests, and I get anything from .8 up to 160 ohms. Could be my 50 dollar meter though. edit 3: tentative lesson learned, all the Berus are in place. Relay cycles fully, no clicks. Still kinda wanna probe the mounting tabs on the new relay and see if they're leaking at all. Admiral Bosch fucked around with this message at 19:34 on Mar 3, 2018 |
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Mar 2, 2018 23:42
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I'm back to pester you with more questions! I am having a really hard time finding a kingpin front axle, so I reluctantly changed my search terms to stop excluding ball joint dana 60 axles. I found one nearby for a good price that looks in decent enough condition, for 900... but it doesn't have any of the steering linkages, or the brake calipers. Is there any compatibility between the TTB brake system and the D60? And can the TTB steering linkage be used on a D60?
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May 29, 2018 19:57
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89 kingpin SAS quest continued: Got a kingpin out of a '90 F350 to put in my '89 IDI F250. Going to pick up leaf springs hopefully today, also from an F350 from the same era. I have some questions - I don't have a front sway bar, but I do have a track bar(needs bushings, but I can get those pretty easily) and the track bar mount that bolts to the frame. I am running into a lot of conflicting opinions here - this is mostly a daily driver that I will take into the hills on weekends for camping/shooting/what have you. Sway bar - is this a 100% necessity? My understanding is it reduces body roll, but that's something you'd really just want for something lifted, and I'm not lifting it beyond what a stock F350 would be... right? Second question, track bar - is this a 100% necessity? My understanding is it reduces/eliminates left-and-right movement of the axle, or 'death wobble,' but that isn't necessary for a leaf sprung axle, because the leaf springs serve to locate the axle in all directions. I'd ask in the general question thread but this thread is vehicle appropriate. I hope nobody minds me hijacking the OP's thread to help me out; if there's somewhere else I should post this let me know and I'll head over there. edit: preemptive response - the last time I posted about this, it was recommended that I do a coil spring swap for additional travel, but I believe that requires fabrication and that's beyond both my ability to do myself, and my funds to pay for someone to do it. I'm trying to keep things simple and durable, so just keeping it leafsprung is all I want to do right now. A lift is possible at some point in the future. edit 2: i will also not be insulted if you dogpile those 'understandings' of mine, I just want to do this right the first time and have a safe vehicle. Admiral Bosch fucked around with this message at 15:30 on Jul 23, 2018 |
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Jul 23, 2018 14:07
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That's what I was thinking, but I'm less sure about the swaybar. From what I can tell I think I can get away without it for now, but if I ended up needing one I could do it later as long as I'm not driving like a crazy person. edit: I'm also looking for torque specs for this job, including leaf spring bolts, so if anyone has any resources for that I'd appreciate a link! I'll look through my Chilton but I'm not optimistic Admiral Bosch fucked around with this message at 16:25 on Jul 23, 2018 |
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Jul 23, 2018 15:33
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Okay. I'll order some bushings from rockauto, then. I live in Colorado near the Front Range, so most of the time I'm on flat land or on low rolling hills... and because of the naturally aspirated IDI, whenever I go up on the mountain roads I'm never going terribly fast anyway, so I'll just try to be careful without the sway bar. I'm sure I'll be posting here before I start tearing it all apart, but whenever I do have it apart I'll post some pictures of the process for anyone else interested!
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Jul 23, 2018 18:04
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Bump - for the panhard bar I got some Moog bushings, they're the blue thermoplastic kind. Opinions vary on whether you should grease them, do you have any experience with them? Also, I don't suppose you can help me out with this next question... I'm not sure if I'll be able to keep my current driveshaft. I'm guessing I'll need a different yoke and u joint at the very least, but as far as measurements go, mine currently measures at around 36 inches, but that's just while it's on the truck, not fully compressed. Going off rockauto, a factory F250 with the ZF5 transmission gets a 33" 1/4 fully compressed front driveshaft, and a factory F350 with the same gets a 32" 1/4. Is that one inch difference going to slam into my transfer case? What measurements should I make to figure out if I should spring for a new one/drag one out of a junkyard truck? Admiral Bosch fucked around with this message at 16:45 on Jul 25, 2018 |
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Jul 25, 2018 16:43
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I don't think they're poly, according to internet research, and they didn't come with grease. I'm just worried about if it's a weird proprietary material that grease might degrade it. Automotive ignorance ahoy: on measurement B, I'm guessing you mean the center of the leaf spring eye under the cab, but I don't know where or what you mean by 'pinion.'
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Jul 25, 2018 18:47
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 at long last. Now to wait to see what other issues crop up :v I did end up having it taken to a shop, and I'm kind of glad I did. They took their sweet-rear end time but I get the impression I probably either would have screwed it up, or wouldn't have been able to do it in the time I would have allotted. Old driveshaft is disconnected, but I have it just in case I can still end up using it; haven't yet measured. edit: half the reason I had such a hardon for doing this swap was just because there was a squeaking noise at high speeds coming out of something in the TTB axle. I knew I didn't want to dump money into an axle I was going to replace at some point anyway so this whole summer I was chomping at the bit trying to find a D60. Also, factory springs or not, just having new suspension is making a world of difference in comfort when hitting bumps and potholes. Pretty stoked to finish things up, slap some new tires on it, and go have some fun. todo list: rebush rear springs, rebush front and rear leaf shackles, install new driveshaft, get new tires, have welding buddies fab up a mount for a winch, probably a bunch of poo poo I'm completely unaware of Admiral Bosch fucked around with this message at 13:28 on Aug 29, 2018 |
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Aug 29, 2018 13:22
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As luck would have it, a guy down in Denver had new manufacture F350 bricknose springs that he had already bushed, so I went and picked those up the day after I got the axle. It rides pretty great for being a big front heavy skateboard.
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Aug 30, 2018 21:21
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Skrrrrrrt New tires, got the front driveshaft bolted back up(local driveline shop measured and said it should be fine), gave her a quick 4wd spinny spin in the parking lot with no problems to speak of. Gonna go fart around on some nearby trails in the morning.
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Sep 11, 2018 05:39
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Hey CSB, in any of your posts here did you do anything with the ignition? I got home last night, turned the key off, and the truck kept running. I thought it was maybe the lock cylinder but I replaced that and the key still spins freely between Accessory and On. Wait To Start doesn't come on, and there's no spring resistance when you go to On, and the starter doesn't turn over. edit: after some research my suspicion is it's a broken ignition actuator. I am not looking forward to tearing my whole steering wheel apart. Admiral Bosch fucked around with this message at 21:35 on Oct 9, 2018 |
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Oct 9, 2018 21:10
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NumbersMatching320 posted:find a non tilt column and swap the whole thing. I have a non-tilt column
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Oct 10, 2018 01:08
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Victory. That was annoying. But hey, I learned a new thing - how to take the steering wheel off. That'll come in handy when I want to make a quick release thing so i can do this:
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Oct 11, 2018 00:46
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1. I continue to be jealous of your skills, tools, knowledge, and the fact that you have a garage/driveway to work in 2. The top mounting bolt for the starter on these is a huge pain in the rear end and I'm glad I have extensions
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Jan 14, 2019 23:31
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I have idly considered doing the turbo upgrade but wow that looks insanely complicated
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Apr 26, 2019 21:09
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Posting in here since my usual googling isn't returning anything helpful - I took my 89 7.3 out for my recent elopement and halfway to our destination the speedo, odo, and trip meters all conked out. Tach still works. Where should I even start looking? I thought it might be a fuse of some sort but the list underneath the dash didn't say anything about gauges. Truck forums can't seem to agree where the problem might be.
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Aug 19, 2020 17:59
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 Just so I know to pull the right thing next week, is this the housing for the cable? I looked up in the cab between brake and throttle and they look like the same size housing. Sorry to keep hijacking your thread.
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Aug 21, 2020 16:22
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Okay, cool. I don't expect this will give me too much trouble. As long as I'm picking your brain, have you had to replace the fuel sending units before? Ever since I bought this several years ago Tank 1 always reads full until it gets close to empty and then it starts bobbing around, whereas Tank 2 just always shows empty.
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Aug 21, 2020 18:21
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Okay, thanks for the advice. I think I'll probably not bother - I use my trip meter and flip tanks every 200 miles so not having the trip meter working when out in the middle of nowhere was a little bit unsettling. I put a speedo/odo app on my phone for the time being but i'd just as soon have the trip meter tell me.
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Aug 21, 2020 18:58
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Can I poke your brain again? I went to go run an errand in mine today and saw that the battery light was on and the voltmeter was real low. Got it back home, got out the multimeter - both batteries read 12.2-ish while the truck is running and while it's off. So, batteries are fine, which means alternator, right? But I also want to make sure that it's not the voltage regulator, because if I'm not mistaken, these are not all-in-one alternator packages the way modern ones are, right? Trouble is, I don't know where the voltage regulator is or how to test that.
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Dec 16, 2020 23:21
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 So this is what mine looks like, which is quite a bit less tidy than yours. I also don't have something that looks like that, unless it's the grey square thing. It says "Motorcraft electronic regulator." edit: obviously not expecting you to work a miracle and diagnose the problem from a crappy phone picture, by the way, I appreciate anything you can offer. Admiral Bosch fucked around with this message at 00:55 on Dec 17, 2020 |
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Dec 17, 2020 00:51
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Alright, I'm pretty dumb when it comes to diagnosing electrical stuff so all I did was the screwdriver magnet test, which didn't work. Took it to o'reilly's and they did an alternator test which said the problem was the regulator. 20 bucks later and everything is working, and the magnet test worked. Thanks for the help, shitbox!
Admiral Bosch fucked around with this message at 23:17 on Dec 17, 2020 |
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Dec 17, 2020 22:58
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