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To stop cluttering my bus thread with this truck here's its own thread. Bit of backstory for those that missed the bus thread. I bought this fucker in feb to get back and forth to class with a screwed up leg. I wanted a support truck for the bus, which meant mechanical diesel, manual trans, and 4x4. I eventually found this thing and lowballed the guy, he bit and I drove off. Its a 1990 F350 cab/chassis. Dana 60 front. 10.25 rear, 4.10 with LSD. ZF5 5 speed, 7.3 IDI. Its a ex ranch truck, meaning its rouuuugh as all hell cosmetically. PO bought it as a drunk decision and quickly realized old iron is needy as gently caress, unloading it onto me. Pictures!   Chekout those racing slick 33s. Onto poo poo that has been done. PO: OIl changed, all filters serviced, 8 new injectors, steering links and TREs replaced, LED exterior lights, 2 new batteries, bullshit CAT gearknob. Me: Heatercore, blower resistor, blower was pulled oil. 26 years of rats nest removed from the heaterbox which was the grossest loving thing on earth. Rewire of the glowplug power circuit, this was a hokey mess of speaker wire. Trashed early 00s cd radio for something weather proof. cluster overhauled, added LED lights. pedal pads replaced, gross carpet removed 33s got tossed out for old 35s. those got tossed out for ex mil 37s. fuel turned down, timing advanced 1* Headlamp dimmer, turn indicators, horn, reverse lamps, abs/cruise delete, and dome lamps fixed. K/N filter was tossed for a paper one, valvecvoer gaskets replaed. Adjusted SCA levels, coolant hoses, fan clutch fix, and belts replaced. King pin bushings. stripped the body moulding off  Its all the same, the parts are just bigger.     add a core support weld and brace to the list of poo poo that needs welding and bracing.  One of the more fun projects on this truck. I refilled the fan clutch using silicone diff oil for RC cars. works great now.  From the valvecover replacement. Looks pretty clean inside. Plans for this truck: Overhaul the front driveshaft Rewire the yes. Ford undersized everything and is highly allergic to relays. I've found more melted connectors than not. Front winch goes away for a hydraulic. I'm undecided to put the electric under the bed box, or just have dual PTO hydraulics.... this is probably the best option. New seat in vinyl, vinyl floors too, tint the windows. Canvas top after I rebuild the bedsides. I'm going for a military look. On board air via YORK compressor Electric powered A/C. coolant filter + automatic SCA charge Real fuel filters + Facet Dura-Lift pump. PaS filter + Hydroboost brakes TURBO?! 46" bed height dwarfs all around it.   Teaser of the Bussman/Eaton vehicle power distribution center: 
cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 19:27 on Feb 5, 2017 |
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Jul 17, 2016 17:35
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Theres options for low voltage compressors and roof mount applications for off road vehicles without a dedicated spot for a compressor. I'll go this route if I can't create a packaging solution for the engine (likely won't be able to) Originally I was gonna backdate and go over some previously covered projects, but gently caress all that unless you guys wanna see that poo poo. Last weekend came the column/pedal box repair. I'mma start off with this. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SiLCGMf5VcA thats a good idea of what this fucker was like to drive.  Pedal box mount, just to the right of the clutch pedal. clutch pedal mounts in single shear, brake pedal is double shear. Normally theres a little nylon bush that rides between the steel shaft and aluminum housing, but like everything else from the 80s, its hosed off.  (note the T of the brake pedal in the bottom of the photo) I honestly don't have a lotta pictures, but this a dirty, greasy, fiddly spring trap ridden operation.  wheel, nut buster, interior trim.  You know its bad when a column that is NINE years older is in cleaner, better shape. Clutch rod/brake pedal pivot is in the foreground, note the heim joint. new column stripped down, cleaned, greased, rekeyed and reassembled.  Pedal box rebuilt with new nylons, this little heim joint, clutch switch delete. ***I'm going to turn bushes for this thing outta brass later on and pull the pedal box again for that operation**  another view...  Teeth from the tilt mechanism on the old column. its an intregal unit and is about 500usd to replace. Mind you the tilt rod function is handled by babbies first rzeppa joint with a single bearing on the steering wheel side. This is unacceptable engineering IMO, hence the deletion of tilt.  READY FOR PENETRATION CAPT'N   It drives so <3 now. Facet Dura-Lift pump, steel stock and filter mounts ordered...
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Jul 19, 2016 03:16
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kastein posted:WTF, why is the clutch master all the way over the gas pedal, did Ford really put the clutch pedal on the left side of the brake and the clutch cylinder on the right side of the brake? I expect these kinds of shenanigans from native-RHD vehicles that have been converted to LHD by their foreign makers for the USDM, but not from Ford. Because ford!!! actually the ECU is located to the left of the clutch master (efi models) and it probably interfered with all the bullshit going on right there. (parking brake bolts to firewall right there too)  Truck things! 7525lb as pictured. 675lb in crap. means this pig weighs 6850lb. six thousand eight hundred and fifty motherfucking pounds. jesus bonus tunnel noises: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2PvSVFozeTQ
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Jul 20, 2016 23:20
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a bed made with 1/2" (12.7mm), 3/8,(9.5mm) and 1/4" (6.3mm) plate everywhere. Dana 60 front axle that weighs lolyes. a 1100lb (~500 kilo) diesel engine, and a frame that is .20" (5mm) thick in the C channels. Its the heaviest non-bus vehicle I've ever owned, out of 58 vehicles. It also has a thousand pounds on the phantom, which is hahahaha loving heavy. Actually I should find one to go park by, they're hilariously large cars. E: it'll probably gain another 500-700lb by the time I'm done with it too.
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Jul 21, 2016 00:08
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Sudo Echo posted:Ahh caldecott tunnel. I brap those bores to death err day :3 kastein posted:37" military tires aren't exactly slim and lightweight either. And that rear axle is probably pushing 300lbs. Steel wheels right? alu centerline wheels or whatever the hell they are. the combo is heavy enough I don't like lifting them, They're drat close to my own weight. D60 at a hair over 500lb. 10.25 is around 400 depending on loadout. I'm also a tard and forgot that my 190lb rear end was in the cab when I scaled it. Not that it really matters, the winch still weighs more. :v speaking of, gently caress putting that guy under the bed. I'd need csb-vibrator-sized cables to run that, annnnd nope.  Old headliner.  new headliner.   slathered some paint on the bed while I was doing touchup on the bus.
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Jul 22, 2016 01:47
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Sudo Echo posted:drat then you're driving right by me all the time then. If you ever see a nerd waving from an old Subaru don't freak out  Keep an eye out for this thing.  Hypnolobster posted:
I think its the bed. Theres something ab out that box.
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Jul 22, 2016 06:15
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Today on this old piece of poo poo: Brackets, boogers and bedliner ohmy.  Fuel filter/pump bracket. I built this last weekend. Now that my pump arrived, I get to cut this fucker apart and modify it. Gome!  Fuse box upper bracket.  Makin chickenshit welds. Holy fucknuts ford uses some thin loving steel.  yep. chickenshit central. whatever. Its better than having a 4 piece core support. the truck actually drives a bit better now too. E!: I forgot! I fixed the parking brake pedal bracket that broke in half too. got some awesome burns on my arm welding under a dashboard. Onto some paint!  Out with the gross seat, and in with a chisel and a hammer. If you'll also note, theres a big rear end plate bolted to the floor. that has to go too.  It didnt suck too bad.  and while I'm in here, might as well reward myself with a rear end in a top hat view of my big fat tranny.  annnd cover back on. I'll fill those holes with chickenshit sometime later. Moving on.    Tried to wipe some overspray off with a little acetone and took the paint off the back of the cab. haha oh early 90s paint. whatever! [s]   Back to that gently caress ugly core support I made. Lets de-emphasize the fucker.   Certainly not my best work, but it appears I'm going to get a lot of practice in the future....     FWIW I'm not very concerned about the epoxy cracks, I'll keep an eye on it. but I don't like seeing sheet crack like that. Lastly!  RABS and Cruise controllers removed. For those not-in-the-know RABS: Rear Anti-Lock Brakes. Its an awesome deathtrap of an 80s system that added to the driving experience. I'll do without this system. As for cruise? Its getting a hand throttle like my bus.  Truck compared to other common and uncommon road going vehicles. cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 02:25 on Jul 29, 2016 |
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Jul 29, 2016 02:15
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Astonishing Wang posted:Can this thing tow the bus in an emergency? Legally, no. but yes it can move it. I intend to put winches front/rear in case the bus gets stuck off road. ehnus posted:Are you going to stop-drill the sheet cracks? Drill, plate, tube, etc. SPOILERS!
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Jul 30, 2016 02:55
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Moved the coolant reservoir/windshield washer tank to the other fender.   (I'll paint the brackets later on)  Future home for the fuel filters and fuse panel.  Joints greased. so awesome to have zerks on the axle ujoints.  I'll need a low-profile tip for these tight fucks.  almost ready for install.  (also note the lights that are out, drat you PPO and scotch locks)  bike popped a headgasket, good thing trucks are. 46" deck height is lol. cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 18:43 on Aug 6, 2016 |
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Aug 6, 2016 18:40
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Fuel system installed! This has been the most frustration riddled 3 days of my life ever. I'm so thinking twice before performing major surgery on the DD while the wife needs something to drive to physical therapy and do errands. Theres 9 possibly 10 revisions before this thing played nice with the truck and would evacuate its friggin' airbubbles.  the return loop I made leaked like a sieve thanks to amazon ballvalves from china or where ever, it was deleted. optimal way for the system to work is as follows: from tank switching valve 10 micron (red) filter with water separator Fuel pump plus 80 micron sight glass roach catcher. (pump gets power from IP) 2 micron yellow kitty filter (this is where the fuel pressure gauge is, psi/kpa) Air bleed + check valve(I'm doubting this oem check valve still works) that goes to injector return line system Injection pump. return starts at the injection pump, goes through all 8 injectors, then to the tank. Trial and error. Mostly error. 10mic bleeds, 2 mic wouldnt bleed, or vise versa. took 2-3 diesel showers. lotta cuts, burns, and bruises, but the fuckers done and runs properly. God dammit I need a beer. 
cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 20:50 on Aug 17, 2016 |
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Aug 17, 2016 20:48
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CommieGIR posted:Work of art to my eyes.  hopefully the db2 will be happier with it. I want everything to last. Took a cheap headlight resto kit to the donkey. I hate fogged over lenses, and I'm not quite ready to drop $200 on new housings when there are other maintenance issues to catch up on.  
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Aug 18, 2016 01:10
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Did you seal those with anything? Not yet. gonna clear it over with some plastic spraypaint tomorrow ish. digger_smolkin posted:Are you using a lubricity additive in your fuel? Diesel was a lot thicker when these things were made. My '94 idi-t prefers DieselKleen (gray bottle) but anything is better than nothing. Modern ULSD just don't lube up a DB2 proper. I've run dieselkleen through it before. (I have a bottle of diesel purge for it, but my leaky valves assured me that wasnt happening). Generic go-to is 2stroke oil. Make a thread! Need more brick love here
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Aug 18, 2016 01:57
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Tomarse posted:Is that a double fuel filter? I thought you would get super clean diesel direct from the pumps in California? are you expecting it to catch a lot of crud? CA diesel is a cetane of like 53 and is filtered to 10 micron. db2's manual says 85% of 5micron particles. the truck shipped with 15 mic. The smallest amount of trash will destroy that guy in very short order. Its a reman from who knows how long ago. the injectors are new too. The bus just has a single giant 30 micron on it. but it has no injection pump. the injectors themselves are the ip. the fuel pump on it works as the governor too. I'll probably not do much to it other than draining out the 50 or so gallons of old diesel (the truck will eat this poo poo nicely) and boiling out the 125 gallon tank. I don't wish to or ever wish to run exotic fuels in my junk. I've had to unfuck one too many trashed fuel systems because of it...
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Aug 18, 2016 14:16
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Tons O poo poo done to the truck in the past few days. Starting off with the glowplug wiring. remember when I rewired the power circuit months ago? I've finally gotten around to pulling the old wire outta the loom and fixing connections at the gp controller.  haha uhhh. nope.  the old supply wires. 160A ran through this garbage.  Much nicer.  cap back on.   Trimmed out a bunch of other wires. no more a/c, fuel heater, water sensors, etc. Onto more fun things! Front driveshaft, Transfercase, front shackle bushings.  horror freights biggest stands, and two jacks to lift this pig.  F/R bushing. note how the shackle was digging into the frame.   Bushings were legitimately the easiest part of the whole operation.  Donkey back on all fours. 1/2" higher on driver side, 3/4" higher on passenger side.  Transfercase and its auto-oiling system. New slip yoke bushing pressed into the extension housing. 8 tooth drive gear for speedometer, and new output seal (cause the old one got destroyed removing it)   Speedometer now reads 7mph fast instead of 10mph slow. I'm happy with this result.  new centering ball in front driveshaft. I reused the joints as they had no play, but i managed to split my ujoint C-clamp in two making this job the biggest pain in the dick of the day. I called it quits after this. I was planning to weld some cracks in the exhaust, but fuckit. next time. Between this driveshaft and the craftsman roller jack that didnt have the handle seated well falling on my foot causing all the ows. that said. mannnn this thing drive sooo nice now.
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Sep 5, 2016 01:48
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Failed to mention. noticed 3 or 4 cracks on the bottom of the core support. guess when I go to do a radiator/intercooler or whatever i'll just be pulling the entire core support and essentially overhauling it. yesterday the radio started smoking like crazy for no reason. Its removed and in the trash now. loving nope. I don't know how, or why. but I know there is gonna be two 5lb extinguishers installed asap. nopenopenope.
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Sep 7, 2016 00:13
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Yerok posted:I saw your pictures of this thing in CA but didn't realize it was an IDI till now. I just assumed 460 but this is so much loving cooler. Just a grumpy rear end old diesel. Speaking of! a set of zd-9 beru plugs and removal tools on the way. 2 plugs are dead, i pulled a working one. AUTOFUCKNGLITE. ARRGHHHHHHHHHHHH. (one dead one won't come out.  ) anyway. radio caught fire, tossed it. bought a bluetooth stereo amp off ebay for $lol. I don't like cables, own CDs, or listen to broadcast radio, so why buy another headunit?  This little guy is good for 50W per channel (at like 6 ohm heh), and has a few mechanical push buttons, can handle 8-24 volts. I may add this functionality to the bus too. Initially I was gonna re-use the steering wheel controls, but seeing as how they're coked all to hell, and new switches cost double the amp, eh fuckit. With the amp going *in* the dash, I need to fill a hole.  That'll do. Planning Pyro, Boost, either a dual oil temp gauge(engine/trans), or air pressure. maybe both eventually.  little enclosure, removed the switches and plugs.  all ready to go in. the sealed connector handles volume/power functions, it has a few open pins for future use. (play, next, previous), the old ford connector handles the speakers.  pro-mounted in the dash. (checkout my awesome hole I made next to the volume switch, godfucking dammit. don't blindside drill holes, kids!)  Done for now. laptop I bought ehhh 3 weeks ago took an awesome poo poo after a small drop, it'll be parted and fund some gofast poo poo for the truck methinks. I have a lead on a $600 turbo setup.
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Sep 17, 2016 01:28
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the little chrome switch on the climate control head operates volume. (in the older trucks the fuel tank selector was there, it just has a blanking plug in its spot) The one I had is sold out. Less powerful version: https://www.amazon.com/ELEGIANT-TDA...+amplifier+100w Go deaf version I considered: https://www.amazon.com/TSA8498-Clas...+amplifier+100w E: who wants some idi love? http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/5766022924.html cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 18:54 on Sep 18, 2016 |
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Sep 18, 2016 17:40
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 minor victories! 4 beru, 3 chinesium, 1 autolite. none broken, distorted, or put up a fight of any kind. why? because I purchased proper tools just incase.
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Sep 21, 2016 23:58
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CommieGIR posted:I started putting O2 antisieze on my glow plugs on the TDI. Seems to be helping. I couldnt find my tube, sorry future me! (its at the shop, an hour away). but still. they all came out without a fight, holy poo poo. Shampoo posted:What's the laptop? g751jy-dh72x.
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Sep 22, 2016 14:44
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I'll let ya know when it comes time. Now that the glowplugs are up to snuff, the old maxi fuse I put in back in march isn't big enough, and well frankly, neither is the "12ga" factory alternator wire. Time to correct ALL this poo poo. and while I'm in here, might as well move some cables.  Messy alternator harness removed. Extra black plug on alternator side is for the tachometer.  Reduced wiring wrapped and ready to go back in. I wanted to use my felt loom wrap, but its at the shop, and I'm not so *shrug*.  went to reconfigure the power wires, and got ford'd. Mind you on the oilburners this is pretty much just a starter relay. the starter has its own solenoid.  winch/block heater wiring relocated. it originally ran through the middle of the grill. its mounted in a way that it should not chafe from vibration.  new solenoid, new alternator output going to the alt instead of the solenoid, glow plugs refused with a larger 150A fuse (need to replace this with a 160 or 170 even), and it also moved to the battery terminal. This truck is supposed to have a 160A Leece-Neville, buuut it looks like the pully is on a standard fat-case ford 1G 100A alt... It'll be getting a proper one someday... perhaps one like the bus. E: further reading tells me they didnt start putting Leece-Nevilles in till late 91', and they use navistar bracketry. cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 01:36 on Sep 24, 2016 |
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Sep 24, 2016 01:19
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  hngggg non floppy door panels. Truck doesnt squeak, shake, or rattle now. its so weird. I own a ford that doesnt: PAS whine Rattle Squeak Rust. The gently caress did I do? also the new GPs, fuel system, batteries, wiring mods, and steering stuff seriously makes this old turd feel like a brand new truck. which is good, because I'm backburnering it till next year. Donkey will probably get a radiator before we move, but that'll most likely be it.
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Sep 27, 2016 19:28
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Shoulda kept my drat mouth shut. When warm the truck would randomly drop a phase on the alternator resulting in the usual symptoms of oscillating lights and voltage gauge. Via snapchat some goons got to see the awesome voltage swing of an unhappy alternator. Who knows how long it was doing this, it became apparent with the recent wiring upgrades.   Cases split. This thing is a motorcrap original reman'd by autozone in 2012.  Diode packs look almost identical, the new one is american diodes on a copper channel, wheras the autozone ones are whitebox diodes on aluminum channel.  My awesomely crummy soldering. its back in and working well. maybe it'll last.
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Oct 3, 2016 06:04
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Yup. Internally rectified, externally regulated. lasted this way from the 60s-1991. 2G alt looks the same, internally regulated. supposedly only good for setting your poo poo on fire. 3G is the goto for modern internal fan/reg/rec. There is a leese-neville version on some ambos that are externally rectified too. all this poo poo depends on the upfitter, day of week, how many beers left, etc.
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Oct 4, 2016 00:33
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cursedshitbox posted:
Continuing with awful old diesel things: Two awful fixes on these engines. One is the above. The other is the oil cooler. guesssss whaaat. Its always had a little taste for coolant, and thats ok, its a diesel and they slobber everything everywhere. buuut its puddling on the front X member. I can't see poo poo because of how everything is piled right there, so in with one of these $10 buttprobe cameras.  Oil cooler face, Facing frame rail:  Top of oil cooler:    Seems the cooler >> block paper gasket is slowly taking a dump. Gonna do O rings, fluids, etc, while I'm in there. PARRRRTAYYYY BTW: Charging system is rock loving solid. 5ma current draw measured with key off/engine off. 100mv drop from batt one to batt two during cranking. minimal drop through grounds. 14.4V idling, no accessories, 14.1 idle, everything on.
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Nov 1, 2016 22:06
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$10bux on ebay. welp. oil cooler, engine oil, and transmission oil changed. good, bad, and the ugly. You ever go into a project with the worst hopes, and have the outcome manage to blow expectations? yeah that was today.  ALL THE FLUIDS.  Inner fender removed  rad/shroud out  steering sector shaft removed  dirty steeds, done poo poo the bed.  Rad out  I can't put into words how big and unwieldy this fucker is. its well over 100lb. not pictured: JB welding the small leak it had.   Nowwwwww you can see the demons. its not really obviously but obviously loving cracked. I missed that at the time.      these fuckers were getting ready to poo poo anyway. Also if you've never worked on a diesel, they have a serious fetish for making everything loving filthy.  Ready for seals and assembly But you need a press! ...I don't have one. but I do have a 7 thousand pound truck, and a bottle jack!  (pressed one side on at a time, using cutlets of 2x4 as dampers).(no forcey forcey, let it slide in slowly, use lots of lube)  core support cracking at the bottom.  AHAHAHAHAHAHA. I only noticed this *after* pressing it together and doing a final cleaning. Otherwise I woulda spent the rest of the day at the junkyard prying one out of another old pos.  JB welded inside and out. letting it sit over night. I got no pics of the reassembly, because well fuckit, who cares you've seen the engine bay assembled a million times. Onto my big fat tranny.  Tower off! PO stripped the poo poo out of the plug, and I'm not even gonna bother right now. Plus I don't have a hand pump with me.  draining.  Green? Motor oil? oh god. ohfuck ohfuckohfuckohfuck   oh awesome. looks like I'm ordering a zf5 syncro kit after we move. THANKS PO! regular motor oil, gear oil, p much anything but non detergent 30wt or atf will destroy the syncros in this box.  Sloth is the motherfucking mother of invention. Tomorrow comes coolant refill, and this weekend both differentials.
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Nov 4, 2016 02:25
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Nov 5, 2016 01:13
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cooler to block. gently caress fel blow. gently caress doorman. gently caress anybody that thinks a shittily designed aluminum gasket is better. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8-t66sPA8z8  Flat rate'd it this time. 2 hours start to finish, including inspection, swearing, more swearing, more swearing, and did I mention, swearing?!  Only the finest ultra black. gently caress you bitch, leak now. (it'll leak)  My fix from yesterday. no leaks here! I'll start it tomorrow. if it still leaks, proper paper gaskets will be here monday. oreilly gave me the right gasket by PN, open the box up, its for a7.3 PSD. SWEEEEEET, Stocking stuffers for AISS.
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Nov 5, 2016 02:51
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at least 4,000 miles. cold it'll shift alrightish going up. it won't synchro going down. warm its alrightish period. Its not a bother to me, but happy wife happy life. the permatex fix seems to be holding just fine too. sooo I washed it to make sure.  Never realized the speckles were just aged grime. old farm truck things.
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Nov 5, 2016 22:53
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CommieGIR posted:Really gotta buy a truck, and it really has to be a diesel. as long as its not a 6.2/6.5 we're good. black oil chat? yeah the oil change had ~2mi on it and is already black as coal.
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Nov 5, 2016 23:07
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Ask away! get it all tuned/running well THEN turbo it.  I adjusted it by ear. right now its 2 maybe 3 deg advanced where it was at time of purchase. Fueling is approx 1.5 flats less than whatever it was when i got it. . Fuel economy was dogshit when I got it, fuelling was way up, smoked all the time, got 11ish. Right now its 15s for mpg. I've had it to 85... I ain' doing that again. nope nope nope. https://www.amazon.com/Liqui-Moly-2005-Diesel-Purge/dp/B00CPL8OVE/ref=pd_nav_hcs_bia_t_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=MJ54380BQQ3RW65ZMW6G Run a few bottles of this through it. One per month is what I do. Timing! Luminosity: you can get an old snap on reader, pull the #1 Gp, (3 on vans) and drop that in there. it wont time the same as a ferret type pickup that claps on the fuel line. keep an eye out for a J-33300-A tach n time on ebay. whatever you do, don't gently caress with the timing while its running. the pump is responsible for keeping the timing gear in place. make a mark with a chisel, be gentle! 3 bolts hold it in. go towards the heater core for advance, towards the brake master for retard. 1 deg works out to about a dimes width. If you dont like the results you have the mark to return it to before. (8.5* iirc is the spec) you'll have it ~right when it sounds kinda like a 7.3 PSD with the cold timing advance on, it'll start pretty much instantly when hot. Notes: at first I didnt want to gently caress with timing, went down 3 flats on fueling, it would still smoke at idle, and p much all the loving time, so definitely timing. bumped it once, left fueling alone. it was better, but revs would hang when cold which drove me nuts. MPG was 12-13 regularly, cold it was one cranky SOB. even with 8 new glows, it would take a few revolutions before it would start. This says timing or worn pump/injectors. considering the pump is a reman from ? and the injectors are new, I attacked timing. 2-3 weeks ago I bumped it again, and went up 1.5 flats on the fueling. smoke is gone, has enough power for my likes, it'll haze a bit above 3 grand, which is fine to me. Starting is a lot better too....except now I suspect a failing starter motor, haha! I need to find my inductance meter and see how many amps the fucker is pulling. as for EGTs: a NA will run away in EGTs with poo poo timing or a bad pump. I don't have a pyro yet, and probably won't get around to having one till we move. Factory exhausts on these trucks are undersized too, which doesnt help. cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 17:59 on Nov 6, 2016 |
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Nov 6, 2016 17:53
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You want it to hot start fast. thats a good sign things are timed right. the further you advance the timing, the louder the clatter will be. too much and you *will* burn GPs. Those are really the only symptoms I'm aware of. too retarded you get smoke @ idle, high EGTs, poor starting. tired pump/injectors: high EGTs, no start when warm, weird power issues. If it starts then stalls, thats air leaks. DB2s lose timing as they age, and generally last 100k miles. If your friend also doesnt know when the fuel filter was last replaced, now would be a good time to do such. prefill it too. Definitely run diesel purge through it. grab some stanadyne addative or 2 stroke oil and blend a little in the fuel too if you care. Don't screw with the fuel adjustment till you get the timing right and a pyrometer. I only hosed with mine because the ~po~ put some big mac daddy injectors on a NA engine  When timbo time comes...it'll be nice to have such, but till then its a waste. Pyro location: most idi guys place it between cyl 3 and 4 on the left manifold. if its turbo'd definitely remove the manifold down pipe and blow the shavings out, otherwise, eh. Go to a 3" or better. I just plan to jank a stock 7.3 psd (3.5") and make it work. you can also stuff it just on the otherside of the flange. I'll just shove mine in the left manifold. hahah I once turned the fuel screw down pretty drastically...couldnt get 70 outta the fucker. it was slower than a vw air cooled bus. I've had it almost a year now and its just now getting to where I'm pleased with how it runs. It is probably over timed by a half-degree or so, but till I get around to timing it, seems alright to me. I'll grab some videos of mine later on, both hot and cold.
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Nov 6, 2016 20:42
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Doublepostin'   rear diff service. confirmed 4.10 gears with (un)limited slip.  Back together. note the corrected brake line. also corrected the vent tube as it was positioned in a way to get all sorts of road grime, mud, water, etc. I'm not really a fan of slathering 3 tubes of RTV on diff covers. Plus the paper gasket looks a liiitle more professional.  Front diff also had a poorly positioned vent tube...and suffered because of it.    I am working on pictures that you can smell. be goddamn glad its not finished yet.
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Nov 6, 2016 23:59
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digger_smolkin posted:Timing is everything on these. There are places to rent meters, and you really do need one to get the best mileage. The local outfits here don't have one...although I prob could dig around oilburners or whatever site and see if anybody offers to do it for $beer$. awesome cheat on installing the probe too Warm start: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YA0tqL4wdFE E: I ignore the GP light when warm, sue me.
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Nov 7, 2016 19:55
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:What's up with the voltage? I figured the alternator would be excited as hell to be (even somewhat) involved in turning that huge driveshaft again, but it doesn't look excited at all. That gauge is "meh" because its gets the leftovers of a huge load going through a little tiny tube. gauge is piggy backed off the ignition circuit which is obviously undersized. what you're seeing is 160A of glowplugs running however. they're on their own power feed, as is the alternator. both 4ga. The alternator is adequate for most of everything, but not enough for that old rear end winch or those glowplugs. Scored a reman starter last night for $65 with a year warranty... I remember the p38 one ran me $275 when it poo poo at work.
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Nov 8, 2016 16:06
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Yes. Cold timing advance and fast idle are working. 720rpm hot, 950-1000 cold. 720rpm is because of the SMF to prevent gear rollover noise. It'll be getting a hand throttle shortly. I've no interest in manually wiring the fast idle solenoid due to plans for a PTO driven winch over the electric one. The old 1g reports 14.4@ idle, no accessories, 14.1 loaded. (all the old idi fuel system stuff works well aside from what was deleted in moving to the new pump/filters) cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 02:13 on Nov 9, 2016 |
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Nov 9, 2016 02:05
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New starter is in! "Cold" start: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BOEgnezXjFA  
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Nov 10, 2016 23:40
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Hugh G. Rectum posted:Haha, you have the same bluetooth adapter as me. SB360, right? It works really well but when there's nothing playing I can hear a little electrical interference from it, do you get that too? http://www.ebay.com/itm/302063419452?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT This but modified for my uses. the install i think is on page two. somewhere around when the radio caught fire.
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Nov 11, 2016 07:08
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Likely so. It drives me batshit. I'd much rather have a status light than a loud GM bong generator. I have to go back in there and rewire the power for it anyway.... I managed to gently caress something up lolol. I've yet to trace it but its floating itself somehow through the dome light and headlights....yet the harness has no provision for "illumination" or "power antennae". Whatever, stupid ford wiring. The rewire inches ever so higher up on my priority list every time I find another chafed falling apart section of wire.
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Nov 11, 2016 19:24
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 900mi road trip was successful. However! I need to find a new oil cooler, the crack is continuing to spread outside of the epoxy now, should have drilled/weld it, but time, etc. I'll buy one from a yard, rebuild and swap em out. The seat sucks. Oh god does this seat suck...and it could use some sound deadening. cracked Y pipe got a little more cracked, so i'll be addressing this and the cooler after we move. Need to pull timing .5 deg. got some smoke/marbles on ~the grapevine~ Truck handled the 800lb of tires like a champ too..
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Nov 26, 2016 03:58
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I could design/cnc some brackets to move it externally, but the problem lies in that the rear cap houses pressure regulator stuff and the filter hangs off of it.
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Nov 26, 2016 05:54
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