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Incremental progress! Ported the project to the STM32. ADCs aren't working yet though everything else up to this point is running fine. As soon as I figure that out this project will be ready for installation. So far I have one input on the ADC working so I'm not far off the mark. Only need 8 more. Here's a setup using a potentiometer to flip the onboard leds on and off https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-_hIhtHgHn4 This project was useful enough I'm porting parts of it to a moto project as well using an eink display.
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Jun 13, 2020 17:51
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generic rotary encoder with a bakelite knob from some vintage amateur radio stuff.
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Jun 13, 2020 20:46
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cursedshitbox posted:Incremental progress! Ported the project to the STM32. ADCs aren't working yet though everything else up to this point is running fine. As soon as I figure that out this project will be ready for installation. U P D A T E. ADCs working. Not just one. All of them. We're talking the dashboard of a peterbilt levels of gauges. Did the E-ink thing, got it refreshing at a significant clip. Software progress all around! Next week I'm either gonna perfboard this poo poo like I've done forever, or actually put some sweaquity in and get a kickin rad purple pcb. I need to get can-bus for cruise control/throttle control, camper chat, however there's an elephant to address in the room. As per the camper thread. The camper is heavy. ultra loving heavy. I've been anticipating this since eh, May, and have been working on this as a side project. I have 10 options. I'll condense them down into something more manageable for a project thread. 1. Sell this truck, buy a F450/F550, 7.3/4x4/6mt. There's no other loadout i'm interested in unless it has a 6.7PSD which is way outside of what I want to spend for a truck. This is an enormous pain in my rear end living in CA as they have a retrofit rule for trucks with a gvr over 14k that costs as much as the truck does. I could try to push the line that it is a "personal vehicle", however with the trucks of this size you get pushed towards commercial insurance. A hassle. Lastly, mount the camper to it permanently, and have it re-registered as a RV. Not really my thing, cause this truck would have to go, and I need a truck that does truck things. Not a low-buck Earthroamer. I also know this truck. I'm not too fond of having to baseline something new on a cramped timeline. However, it still doesn't have a home for the spare, cruise, aircon, and the bench kills my back. 2. Air suspension front and rear. 2klb front, 5klb rear. Remove and sell the H2 wheels/K02s. Replace with this and this I'm not fond of these wheels. However they're the highest rated ones I've found. Including options in steel. If you know of a better alternative that keeps a ~17",  . I've exhaustively looked around for wheel/tire combos and this is about the best I've found that slips in, and also keeps the truck on a decent sized tire. The H2 wheels on it have no published rating, and I don't trust them at the end of the day to stand up to my kind of abuse.Weight capacity out back goes from 7050 to 8600. That'll grease the wheels of progress, though a little on the light side with 1360lb available for our junk including more solar. This effectively makes this truck comparable to a drw F350. This is the way I'll probably go. Side note. the Cab Chassis 350 supposedly uses the same rear end whether its single or dual rear wheel. (the 10.25/10.5 pickup axle uses the same hubs, the housing is longer/shorter). There is a possibility to convert this to drw, though the bed will need to go or get redesigned. nope. Of which, I'm gonna remove the tailgate as that saves about 50lb. I'm not worried about the 10.25 @ 8600lb, not with 1/2" thick 3" OD tubes and oil lubricated wheel bearings the same size used on a deuce and a half. I solved one of the two weak spots by deleting the crush sleeve. The other? Crank on the pinion regularly. the 10.5 is rated at 9750lb, though this is its older, crustier, sibling. 3. Bags, rear springs, DRW hubs on the front 60. swap the Sterling 10.25 for a Dana 80. 8x65 to standard 10 hole/8x225-F450/F550 adapters + 19.5 wheels, then these emt/fire tires Pricey. Ups the capacity to 5560lb additional over what the camper weighs now. The rgawr would be 12800. fagwr is limited to 6410. It'll be a 450-lite at that point in that it'll have all the goodies of the F-superduty brethren of the era without the odd 10-lug wheels and 9-ton rated leaf springs. This is kind of getting excessive for this truck IMO, but I'll keep goin for posterity sake. 4. Varying degrees of $CubicDollars$ and CubicEffort. 99-05 f450 axles, or ideally 05+ WIdetrack 450 axles, the full coil sprung suspension, 20" super singles, and MPT80/81 tires. This nets 6318lb over what the camper weighs now. A total rgawr of 13558lb, fgawr rated at 7000lb. 3 and 4 cost within $100 of each other, totaling more than I paid for the truck 4 years ago, with 2 being less than half that. When the camper is done, it gets reweighed, and this truck becomes the new project. cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 03:23 on Jul 18, 2020 |
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Jul 18, 2020 03:17
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angryrobots posted:Why not option 2 air bags, plus the 19.5" super singles from option 3? I have a lot more faith in that commercial wheel/tire package to hold up. At your weight, the tire will probably dry rot before needing replaced from wear. I could find tons of wheels in the 19.5x6-7" range, not much in the 8"+ range on a 8.6x5. There's a few manufacturers for the medium duty patterns however. The one 8x6.5 I'm aware of is 1st attack and it's a 20" which means going to the MPT80/81 tire. The standard 8x6.5 to 8x225 or 8x6.5 to 10hole budd don't provide much in the way of thickness requiring a second spacer or swapping the hubs. The reason for the hub swap is the super singles run no offset. The H2 wheels on it now are around 5.25" which leave no room for airbags. DRW hubs move the flange 4" outwards. Going to a drw front hub means new rotors, not really a big deal. The rear end is kind of the wild west in that there's no real solid information outside of measuring and adapting. The trucks on super singles flip the rear out, which would be fine on this application if the bed gets notched to fit the new tire combo and a fender built around the tire.
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Jul 18, 2020 15:44
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The AI solution? HEMTT. https://portland.craigslist.org/yam/hvo/d/dundee-hemtt-crane-truck-8x8-oshkosh/7159788515.html  E: not a cat fan, LMTV for 12 thou. https://lasvegas.craigslist.org/cto/d/las-vegas-98-stewart-stevenson-lmtv/7145315662.html 
cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 16:34 on Jul 18, 2020 |
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Jul 18, 2020 16:23
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Tomarse posted:You seem to have invested plenty of quality time in this truck. Keep it and beef it up to suit the camper. Better the devil you know... That's one of my arguments. The devil I know versus the rear end in a top hat I don't. There's not a whole lotta time left in this year to baseline a whole new truck. Yup.  Loaded on the left, Unloaded on the right. Both are with full tanks of fuel. Fuckin lmao the whole kit is nearly 6 tons without me in it. Kastein would know more on the topic than I do. There's a buncha libraries out there for reading CAN data. You could take whatever microcontroller with a transceiver and blit CAN pids to a display using that. Pomp and Circumcized's RX7 electrothread would be another to visit as they built a new digidash for the car which owns.
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Jul 18, 2020 17:39
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Some incremental progress. I designed a nice pcb for the computer upgrade. Kept having this nagging feeling something is wrong. Ok I'll make a board on perfboard to scribble it in, then get the nice smd laden board fabricated and swap em out. yep, found the problem. I'm trying to pile 10lb of poo poo into a 5lb enclosure. It's just not possible no matter how I stack it. Enter the scope creep. I also have a RGB backlit display working now using the APA102 leds. I need to get a gray lcd instead of blue though. I'm currently watching these two headunits. This one is from a W210 E320  This is one from a new Sprinter.  Both are from mershitties and its contents aren't relevant. What is relevant is that I can cram my 20x4 lcd in there and re purpose the buttons. The one from the E320 is a tape deck and the lcd flips down. I'd gut all that and 3d print some modparts to house the new lcd. Downside is integrating the truck's computer with the trucks bluetooth radio. It seems wonky to me to have radio and computer functions on the same panel. Upside is the control buttons are labeled well on the PCB and would make for an easy reverse engineering project. The sprinter headunit would be more amicable to this idea however it has fewer buttons for future upgradeability. I can build a daughterboard to interface the right knob and some of the pushbuttons for the radio, and the left knob and a couple buttons for the truck computer. If I had the dash space i'd drop the double din ML320 nav system in after it was thoroughly gutted. Not gonna scope creep that bad though.  That's a 5" lcd for reference sake. Some actual hardware progress that's related to the too-heavy camper. I've added a hitch to the front to hang the spare, highlift, and cargo basket off of.  The tailgate was also removed.  Next week or weekend sometime when it's not 100F and I can run the welder I'll flip the pin so that the tailgate is removable when opened, and the hinge will sit just shy of the deck so it's not stabbing the camper. This removes 73lb from the rear of the truck. The 5th wheel plate is also removable, so I'll yoink that and weigh it too. Soonish new tires, wheels, airbags go on order. The computer is the most pressing thing at the moment as I have less than 90 days to get something up and running. CAN isn't a priority at the moment as the camper has shifted off using it, however I do need it to interface with future GM modules like cruise control.
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Aug 16, 2020 21:54
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Cable driven. Check for a broken cable drive. Gear could strip though that's indicative of bigger problems. Takes about 5 mins to pull the sender on the tcase side. Cluster takes about 20 to remove. Cable is routed up between the brake and throttle pedal.
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Aug 19, 2020 19:05
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Their customer service is known to be a shitshow. I had the capacity to deal with that kinda thing with the turbo and the hydroboost unit as they were comparatively cheap items in a world of pre covid. now less so. With a few shipments currently lost to a blackhole, another badly damaged, and one sent to Puerto Rico, I don't have the available stress capacity to send four plus thousand dollars off into the great unknown with a company that has been known to dawdle around. Yep this limiting myself further, I'm well aware. 2020's game is roll with the punches, and right now I'm rolling with the punches the best I can. Getting parts from 4WheelParts is preferred over even Amazon at this point. Originally I had planned to have this stuff ordered by now so that I could have a fat runway to land on. Thanks to the GOP ransacking our postal system I just lost four weeks.
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Aug 20, 2020 20:51
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ThinkFear posted:Fair enough, can't blame you for that. I looked at them for a project years ago but wound up going in a different direction, so no first hand experience. Actually, I didn't know about the AF wheels, which, thanks for pointing those out! Their "Beast SS" model looks similar to the Alcoas that came on the OBS fords. Straight up polished wheels is a bit loud for my likes however with the M-608Z you pointed out would allow for a full 12,790lb out back, aka 9930lb of cargo capacity not taking the axle or springs into consideration. On the spicier side with 5 up running well into $5k, however I'm not loving with axles, spacers or adapters. (4whp also sells those wheels). I would need to bore the hubs out since they come with a 122mm bore since the farm truck needs a 130ish mm bore to work. The old KP60 hubs are stupid huge which really cuts down on what fits. Boring the wheels would screw with its weight capacity however i'm gonna add em to the spreadsheet as a possible solution, thanks again. Worst case I can yoink the hubs off and turn them down to fit. The method 305/37s so far have been about the best pick so far. With the different offset over the H2 wheels the bags should still fit fine. If not I'll adjust the bracketry. Hub and bore is all good, it clears the brakes, etc. I did find the Federals too, They were actually the first that I found with a higher capacity than the BFGs (3525lb/LI124). I don't have any experience with them, they're rated for 4080lb which is a load index of 129. Nitto also has a comparatively sized tire in a mud terrain with a load index like the Toyos at 4300lb/LI131. I'm completely ambivalent about Nitto vs Toyo outside of maybe the toyos will probably last a touch longer and be a touch quieter, not that 'quiet' matters in this thing. The price of the two is within a dollar.
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Aug 20, 2020 23:06
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Admiral Bosch posted:
Yep that's the one. 3/8 or 7/16" bolt. I don't remember offhand. The circlip next to the connector should free the cable. The driven gear inside has its own circlip too. The connection on the back of the cluster can be a little bit of a bear to unclip. IIRC that VSS connector you see is for cruise. The one in the rear diff is for RABS. See if you can pull the drive cable out. you'll know right away if it is dead. The one on my truck used to make noise when it was "cold" and bounce the needle a bit. I pulled the drive cable out and used it to fish some bearing grease into the tube a few years ago. Haven't had an issue since. FWIW you can also update it to the 92+ OBS PSOM electronic clusters using the RABS sensor. They can be reprogrammed only a couple times so get your math correct for tire height.
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Aug 21, 2020 18:17
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Nope. I don't trust em much below 1/4 tank and it'll suck air around the red E mark. The front tank SU gets fucky if I leave it parked for a while in that it won't read above 3/4 tank. Once the level hits 3/4 tank or below it reads fine all the way to empty. Usually on a trip after a tank or so it'll work correctly again. This is something that started happening this year. It hasn't annoyed me enough yet to dig into it. Otherwise they both work and are relatively accurate. RA has new units for about 100 bucks. You *might* be able to repair it. I've yet to pull the ones on this truck, I've seen the units get crapped up with barnacles or corrosion leading to em not reading right. There's some small wire that connects the resistor bar to the SU frame, that could have vibrated apart. The tank level wiring also goes through your fuel tank switching valve on the frame. Yours might be a larger pain to test than mine, I can yank the sending units without having to drop the tank because of the flatbed. You can test for an open circuit at the tank switching valve on the 6 pin connector. This is the pinout I have for the 90: Pin1: Motor pin 1 (DB-Y) Pin2: Motor pin 2 (Y-W) Pin3: Front tank sending unit input (Y-LB) Pin4: Tank sending unit to cluster (B-W) Pin5: Rear tank sending unit input (RD) Pin6: open. 10ish Ohms empty, 160ish full tank.
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Aug 21, 2020 18:45
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After removing the tailgate I cut the hinges off, spun em, and welded them back on. The tailgate can now be removed when it is open. Though it doesn't just fall off, it'll take a few taps from a hammer to get it going. I bent the pins removing the hinge and they're not perfectly parallel though the tailgate does open smoothly.   The pins are below the deck which won't hit the camper or anything else for that matter. I should have just done this to begin with.  The front basket arrived. I've welded a highlift mount to it and soon a plate to bolt the spare tire to. Unscientifically bouncing up and down on the edge of the basket does twist the bumper a little however it doesn't dig the bumper extensions into the fender.  Currently bidding on a headunit to rebuild into an onboard computer..
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Aug 30, 2020 21:17
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Annual oil change knocked out. it's easy on big stupid vehicles and hardly worth an update. Fresh coolant and SCA to go in. Brotires and wheels on order. Fresh bushes for the swaybars and panhard ready to go in... If fuckwits would stop doing sex reveal parties. Some post worthy progress on the new computer project. here's our victim from a 2020 Mercedes Sprinter. Paid all of one dollar for it.  First lets tear it apart.  There's a treasuretrove of poo poo inside this thing. BT 4.1 controller, can bus transceiver, 45Wx4 block amplifier with SPI error reporting, 3 LDO power regulators, some LCD without a datasheet but what appears to be a parallel interface. Take it all apart to realize I can't use the 20x4 lcd without it looking like absolute rear end.  gently caress. Whatever it is fine. 16x2 lcd fits about perfect.  I'll get creative with the information displayed. It needs a power supply first off. I salvaged the linear regulator and some other parts from the camper's end of life LP detector. I have nice LDOs and such on hand but reuse is king. This dumb truck won't care.  It all works on the first go without setting the house on fire. Send it!  The enclosure is drilled with pcbs mounted on standoffs.  here's the front panel pcb with the rotary encoders removed. They're inductors which makes it a righteous party to ring out when the 50 pin connector has 15 ground planes. I'm gonna pull the pads anyway as I want these pulled to 5v for this project. The 8 front panel buttons use a 6 pin charlie plexed style array to handle which button is being pressed. and gates or an if statement can put these buttons to work for alternative uses.  Switched the lcd out for the inverted one as it ghosts less. Running through a range of colors here using an apa102 addressible. https://imgur.com/MZlmTAY Annnnd the cyanoacrylate used to locate the 3d printed alignment bracket reacted with the pc-abs housing ghosting everything.  put the parallel to serial converter on an extension header built from a pata cable. Front panel at this point is basically functional, down to the usbc connector. Fixed the ghosting as well.  First power on after plugging the front panel in. It's powered over usb in this shot.  (the acrylic cover will be reattached later in the project)   This is where the project sits currently. There's a handful of pull resistors and a few transistors that need to be added for button backlight control. Need to add a sense for the cluster light wiring. I've gotta rewrite all the display side code to work with the smaller lcd. The library for the backlight I'm using doesn't like the stm32 so I gotta hack on it till it does. I'm gonna design and build a housing for the IMU to mount it to something a little more solid than a bricknose dash to reduce errors in reading. The buttons across the bottom I'm gonna repurpose to control different parts of the truck using the two rotary encoders. For instance, the computer itself, the radio, electronic air suspension. I want to use the same two encoders across systems so there's only one real way to go about it. How will I know what subsystem is selected? Each button has its own backlight. Set a higher pwm duty cycle for the subsystem that is selected and that button will be brighter than the rest. I might replace these lights with red. I'm 1 module shy of having enough, naturally.
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Sep 11, 2020 19:19
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Sgt Fox posted:I guess you weren't able to remove the 4x20 LCD off the driver board to make it fit? (with driver board laying down behind) Either way, the smaller LCD looks good! the lcd directly interfaces with the large board that it is clamped to. There's two potted chips on the back. If it weren't for the potted chips I'd spin up a board that would fit. I really wanted to keep the 20x4 panel at minimum. Worst case sometime in the future I'll yank the 16x2 lcd and throw an E-ink display in. Breaking out the alternate functions on separate buttons afford this with progress I've made in E-ink refresh times this year. However right now I just want this thing done enough to bolt in and focus on a couple other projects. I've also been wondering if a16x2 will fit where the 'PRNDL' indicator in the speedometer. Perhaps the ultra-wide Oled would work too. Not ready to cross that bridge yet. Getting into electronics is easy and goes as deep as you're willing to commit. Start with Raspberry Pis and arduinos. Amateur radio or radio controlled vehicles are also good avenues. The air quality has let up some so I'm getting actual headway in mechanical truck projects right now, I'll effort post about it later.
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Sep 16, 2020 18:42
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AQI has dropped below 100 so it's time to bang out some truck projects. New door panel clips...again. Finally ran through the old pack, maybe these will last a little longer. (They won't.)    Nothing really all that special. Moving on. The manufacturer of the wheels sell low profile splined lugnuts to work with their wheels. They also work with the H2 wheels, and unlike the last set, engage all of the threads made available by the wheel stud.   Rear swaybar and endlink bushings went without a hitch.  One fell apart as I removed the hold down for the swaybar. No surprise there. I didn't care about the swaybars before since this truck rarely ever sees more than 1 ton on the deck. With the camper, these swaybars are important. I'd also like to point out that there's two different mounting styles and two different diameter swaybars available on these trucks. That means there's 3 ways to get the wrong parts. This truck came with the larger swaybars. Front ones are on order, who knows where they are or when they'll get here. Panhard rod was removed and new bushings installed into it. Again, didn't care about it before as it kind of hinders how the front suspension works offroad though it helps with on road driving characteristics. No, no Ford truck from 30 years ago handles, much less handles good.  20ton press makes easy work for bushings. It's also super handy for pressing sockets of the right size firmly into suspension parts. The truck doesn't always warrant using a press though, because after all, it is a big dumb farm truck. To install the poly bushings, grease the bushing, Press the bushing in ever so slightly so it engages uniformly then unceremoniously bang the panhard against the sidewalk to seat the new polybush. Its what it deserves for bloodying knuckles.  next up. Spring pads! The squeak doesn't bother me so much as the metal grinding on metal with a 2.5 ton load on the deck. Grab your 12ton may-crush-you stands and extend them *all* the way. Drop the axle back on the ground and get to work.  Side note: This appears all *kinds* of sketchy. FL-Wheel(and subsequently RL wheel) is chocked into place, no part of my person placed in a point that could be pinched or crushed if the truck were to be shake or fall off its stands. Rule#1 here. Don't feed the bloodthirsty machinery. Tap a crapsman screwdriver into the stack to pry the stack apart. use side-cutters to remove the old pads and slip the new ones in using a straight blade driver and nota finger.  When done, pull the handle of the crapsman screwdriver out but firmly leave the shaft in the spring pack. Return to the shop to grab a prybar to remove the screwdriver shaft. No really. The old pads are really easy to remove when they've been beat on like my knees for 30 years.    The rear axle is really easy to do. Like 1 in 10 beers kinda job, however when working around big dumb machinery, don't drink. The front had to be done a corner at a time as the front axle differential gets in the way and the jack can't lift the truck high enough to meaningfully unload the springs.  Use a prybar to pry the pack apart, remove the remnants of the old pads, trim the new ones to fit and carefully use a cheap tool to place the pad. Tap the prybar out with your favorite sawed off sledge.    The second spring's loop around the bushing and first spring is called a 'military wrap'. It is there in case the primary spring breaks.  I screwed around a little with the computer this afternoon. Made zero headway on as the rotary encoders are refusing to play ball. Gonna dig out the jiggling electron analyzer to learn more. It's all working fine with the bench test tools that were built for this project. Plug the mershitties encoders in and *nada*. So chore list. Coolant is ready to go in. Front sway bar bushes are off *somewhere* Wheels and tires are somewhere in the ether. I found a little play in one of the front drive shaft's universal joints. I may or may not do something about it. The shaft has to be removed for a lube service anyway. One of the Hella 4ks needs the trim installed with adhesive, it keeps popping free and I don't want to lose it. E: English is hard. cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 04:36 on Sep 17, 2020 |
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Sep 17, 2020 04:31
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Seat Safety Switch posted:What's the problem with the door trim clips anyway? Maybe we can design better ones. Cheap poo poo I bought on bulk four years ago. These new ones look a lot better, we'll see after 3-4 door slams. Could probably cast better ones in reclaimed trash.
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Sep 17, 2020 04:43
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Sgt Fox posted:I was meaning to desolder the lcd component from the driver board with the potted chips and make a ribbon cable between them, allowing the pcba to fit laying down. Not sure how that particular LCD is attached, some use this poo poo flex contact instead of soldered pads. Oh yeah good point, I could spin up a pcb just for the lcd. I'm gonna keep that in mind for future uses. Since the smoke isn't too bad I'm out getting outdoors projects taken care of.   New wheels/tires installed. Front sways done. Not too bad.  First up is the front air suspension. Since the rears were likely gonna be a huge project I started up front.  lol wrong. Apparently air-lift never put this kit on a truck with a front swaybar. Had to shift the bar down a little and clearance the driverside bracket some.   Their instructions leave little to be desired and I question some of their choices in design. (like placing the bag right under the brake line) Plenty of room after install and no rubbing lock to lock. The new wheels have a different offset, there's a good 3/4" of leaf clearance with the current wheel lock settings. Not gonna bother adjusting them.  And now the rear airbags get installed.     The rears went on without a fuss. I don't have the controls side for this project finished yet, for now all four lines were plumbed to the engine bay where I can manually top them off as needed.  4 wheel electronic leveling runs four figures in cost. I'll roll my own however it'll need need adequate testing before I roll such a project out. Using manual valves is fine, and not an issue. However it would be nice to level the camper parked on non flat surfaces.   It does lift the truck an inch or two. The front cargo basket is now finished as well.      I have some leftover all-thread from this project which allows me to build a spare hold down on the headache rack. With the new tires/wheels/airbags the truck is now good for the following including the unladen weight of the truck. Front axle: 1145kg / 2520lb. Rear axle: 2609kg / 5740lb.
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Oct 7, 2020 00:24
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angryrobots posted:Did the bags change the ride quality at all? Yup. Definitely an improvement in ride quality. It is no Lincoln Blackwood though. Should be modern truck nice with the camper loaded. Some new seats would help ride quality. Astonishing Wang posted:What will the clearance be like in the front with that rack and spare? I didn't measure during mockup. It is on par of the departure angle with the camper on the truck haha. If its ever in a situation that the tire might drag, I'll pull the spare and throw it in the basket or slip the entire basket assembly into the rear hitch temporarily.
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Oct 8, 2020 19:00
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Alright got some detail stuff done and that's about it. Repainted the dash badge.  After a two week long fiasco these NOS XL badges showed up.  Since I'm gonna bother with badging, might as well hit the bed and sliders with fresh paint.    I have not touched the computer in weeks. I'm in a ADHD riddled pit of hell with tons of external noise and violence that there's no way in hell I'm going to get a 10 hour window to solve its problems. Long form thinking is right out of the window right now. It's gonna get tossed into the camper and I'm gonna work on it in silence. With that, I'm done here for now.
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Oct 24, 2020 02:48
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Admiral Bosch posted:Can I poke your brain again? I went to go run an errand in mine today and saw that the battery light was on and the voltmeter was real low. Got it back home, got out the multimeter - both batteries read 12.2-ish while the truck is running and while it's off. So, batteries are fine, which means alternator, right? But I also want to make sure that it's not the voltage regulator, because if I'm not mistaken, these are not all-in-one alternator packages the way modern ones are, right? Trouble is, I don't know where the voltage regulator is or how to test that. two pin plug on top of the alternator is your field connection. check for power there, or use a screwdriver against the rear bearing on the alt to test for a magnetic field. 1G alt is externally regulated.  see the chromed motorcraft tin bolted to the fender? that's the regulator. Jumper A and F pins to test the field. No field? bad brushes. R/R brushes. It is grounded through the body, make sure the regulator is well grounded. Pin I goes to your dash light. A is B+ F is field S is ign. If you are still using the original engine plug that's by the alternator, that can be a trouble spot for the alternator wiring. Upgrade it. 4awg will do. Don't forget that your Field wire goes through that connector and it too, can be a trouble spot. (I built a dedicated harness for mine independent of the engine harness.) In the Bay area once a year or so i'd have to pull the regulator/field connectors. hit them with some deoxit or whatever to clean the contacts and it'd be fine. (The regulator would exhibit poor Voltage control through what would be described as an under-damped system.) 2G is an easy upgrade if you so wish to go that route. I rebuilt the 1G in mine back in 2016, with a new reg sometime last year. It hasn't started a fire yet, though I don't really tax it. It'll get a Leese Neville next time it dies.
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Dec 17, 2020 00:19
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Admiral Bosch posted:
That's the one! The connector on it should have some vague rear end IASF stamping. that'll coincide with what I've posted earlier. Mine originally mounted to a piece of plate bolted to the inner fender. Pic from when I got it almost 5 years ago.  (It's the rusty blob under all the naked wires just below the starter solenoid left of my hand) I've rewired and remounted all this poo poo like Krackles pointed out. Actually at this point the only original wiring is what's attached to the dash/fusebox and a section behind the cab going to the fuel senders/rear lights. Everything else has been replaced.
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Dec 17, 2020 02:09
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taqueso posted:bump :p DUUUUDE. come awn. Let this thread die. Or not. Fuckit. Guess I'll roll some truck/camper progress here? thoughts? The truck's computer is running rtos and is eh 80% ready to bolt in. Todo: On a good solar day i'm gonna pull all the interconnects to an external pigtail which will let me plug it into the dash and get it operational. While I'm in there I need to add a photodiode for detecting if its light out or not and change the backlight colors accordingly (green: day, red: night). At the moment there's a intermittent short at the atmospheric pressure/temp sensor and 6 axis imu causing weirdness. Fine, that needs to be put into a printed box and mounted to something more rigid than the flimsy rear end dash for accurate data recording. Rotary encoders are being stupid cause i'm using an old arduino library which only detects a rotary event while the function is being called. aka it works if you roll the rotary incredibly slow. Working on pulling that out and using HAL's interrupts in its place. The hardware short is stymieing me across the board at the moment as it is making debugging extremely difficult with non-repeatable results. Fine, its time to finish that leg anyway. Radio poo poo all works, just need to break that out and plug it into the bluetooth headunit. lcd serialization backpack needs to be hardmounted to something. probably causing 10% of my hardware issues. Tada: 100% Working reliable front panel buttons Both rotary encoders and their push buttons work, but really slowly on the rotary action. working lcd with color backlight for varying conditions quasi-working quick change function system involving no loving hidden sub menu bullshit but front panel buttons only. rtos operational and its diverge from a smaller event loop based system. This was huge. Holyshit. fresh interfaces for gauges, radio, hardware tests, user manual, and leveler. I *really* hope to have this done enough to install by the end of Feb. We'll see, it's been almost a year at this point anyway. outside of that, the driver's doorcard fell apart again, so I have these big rear end neodyminum magnets i'm going to captively 3d print into the doorpanel to hold it to the loving truck. Just like how I solved the blinds in camper's bunk. There's some rattle in 4th/5th gear that's annoying as gently caress. It happened a few years ago and was related to the 4wd lever. Need to slip under the truck and do a once over anyway. Pictures/videos whatever when I'm not on a 200kbps connection and can muster the fucks to suffer through the terribleness that is imgur.
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Jan 28, 2021 21:10
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StormDrain posted:Welcome back! The transfer case lever in the International used to rattle real bad. A few wave washers helped, and it rattled in less conditions but it still rattled at a certain speed. Ended up with a bungee cord applying light pressure on it. I've wedged a hoodie under mine when it started rattling 600 miles from home a few years back. I don't remember if I found the right bushings or just turned some for it. Leaning on it or the main gearbox lever while moving doesn't make it go away. Its load based. So increasing throttle in say 4th gear and the tinny sounding rattle intensifies, back out of the fuel and it responds the same. Crawling around under there, the lever and its linkages are all tight. None of the hotside bracketry or any of the other related 3 dozen bolts touched in the last 2 years have moved. I bet its this guy though.  Its a reoccurring problem child from its days on the farm. I had forgotten about it till last night. its in a fucker of a spot to gain access to, especially now with the turbo in place. The remaining bolts are good and tight so I'm sending it. I'm saving the bolt for later, I'll grab a cheap HF wrench at some point in the future and have it make friends with a torch to build a special tool to reinstall it without all that other loving labor. I went through and typed up a big ole update last night with videos and photos. I'm not gonna post it here. I'm gonna kill this thread once and for all. After chatting about it on slack a little bit. I'm gonna start a new thread. It might be here, it might be in HCH. Its focus will be more projects like the truck's computer. This thread is from a chapter that is now closed. After 5 years of work I have a boosted brick-shithouse. Time for it to work smarter.
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Jan 29, 2021 21:00
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