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Dildomancer
Aug 8, 2016

No sense of right or wrong.


Shopping list for making dongs
These are all US-based retailers since I'm in the US. Different sources may be cheaper overseas.

Materials

Platinum-cure silicone: You want to buy it from Smooth-On or one of its distributors. There are three types you'll be using. A note: the cured firmness is measured on the Shore scale. Wikipedia has some details if you're curious, but I'll put references below. All of these come out to ~$25/liter shipped.
- Dragon Skin: https://www.smooth-on.com/product-line/dragon-skin/ This is a moderately viscous clear silicone for stiff toys. The softest is Dragon Skin 10, which is Shore A 10 (see below). There is also Dragon Skin 20, which is a good deal stiffer and very viscous. I used to use it to make molds because it is very durable, but the viscosity means it has to be vigorously degassed.
- Ecoflex: https://www.smooth-on.com/product-line/ecoflex/ This is much softer, less viscous clear silicone. It's my favorite to use because the low viscosity reduces degassing time and mess. Its firmness uses the Shore 00 scale, which is softer than Shore A. I use Ecoflex 00-20 and 00-50 for super soft and soft toys, respectively. Watch out for the short pot life!
- Mold Star: https://www.smooth-on.com/product-line/mold-star/ Mold Star 30 (Shore A 30) is great for making molds due to its low viscosity. It is not meant for making toys out of, and it's colored anyway, so all your toys would be blue. It's somewhat less durable than Dragon Skin 20. There are softer Mold Stars and a transparent one, but I don't recommend those.

For a firmness reference, 00-20 is extremely soft, like fatty skin. A toy made from 00-20 will not stand up on its own. 00-50 is somewhat stiffer, like slack muscle. Slender toys will droop and fall over, but buttplugs and the like will stand on their own. A 10 is about as firm as a flexed muscle and good at fighting gravity. A 20 is about as firm as an erection. A 30, for making molds, is as stiff as the rubber used in rubber bands. There is no one firmness that works for every toy, or every user. I let customers pick which of the four they wanted.


Pigments: With the right combination of pigments, you can make your toy almost any color. Some manufacturers do not offer custom colors, or charge more for them, so one way to stand out is letting a customer tell you exactly what color they want. A 9-pack sampler is $30 and will make hundreds of dongs.
- Silc Pig: https://www.smooth-on.com/product-line/silc-pig/ Very good pigment. The colors blue, green, and red are especially strong compared to the rest. Black and yellow are almost inadequate, so I recommend using lots of them or using cosmetic mica, below.
- Ignite: https://www.smooth-on.com/product-line/ignite/ Fluorescent pigment. If you'd like to make UV-reactive toys, grab some. It needs to be stirred VERY well. Also comes in a 9-pack sampler.


Powders: Not strictly necessary, but they do help things and give you more options when it comes to colors.
- Glow Worm: https://www.smooth-on.com/product-line/glow-worm/ Phosphorescent powder. Green glows brighter than blue, but blue is a more popular color. $20-32 per 6-ounce container, which will last you a long time. The more you use, the brighter it gets, so feel free to experiment.
- Cosmetic mica: https://www.amazon.com/Metallic-Pig...0POA/ref=sr_1_1 This is one vendor. There are so many different colors; just make sure they're body-safe before you get them. Black cosmetic mica is SUPER dark and much better than Silc Pig. Other colors will give you fantastic sparkly effects.


Other stuff:
- Ease Release: https://www.smooth-on.com/product-line/ease-release/ Essential when making toys, because it keeps silicone from sticking to itself. Apply liberally via spray bottle the first time using a new mold. One coat per dong is enough afterward. If your dong sticks to the mold, you will probably end up ruining both of them.
- SuperSeal: https://www.smooth-on.com/product-line/superseal/ Depending on what you make your model out of, it might inhibit silicone from curing against it. An example is normal potter's clay, which may include sulfur. Coat it with SuperSeal before you make the mold.
- Sculpey: https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-lis...p?s=arts-crafts This is a 1.75-pound box and will make you one to three toys depending on size. Sculpey does not need to be sealed before making the mold. You can use aluminum foil, wood, or PVC as a base and add Sculpey, which will reduce the amount you need. Very easy to work with.
- PVC pipe from your local hardware store. Use it as the base for your models, use it to put voids in your toys as they're poured, pour silicone into them to make tentacles.


Equipment

Vacuum degassing equipment: You can forgo this if you're just making toys as a hobby, but your toys will have vast numbers of tiny air bubbles which will hurt their durability and usefulness. You can buy this stuff from pretty much any vendor.
- 3-gallon vacuum chamber: https://www.amazon.com/ProVac-Vacuu...?srs=9521772011 I have 1-gal chambers, but I recommend getting 3-gal because you will be able to degas bigger bowls and more silicone at once. Remember that you can only fill the bowl about 1/4 of the way when degassing.
- Vacuum pump: I don't have a particular recommendation; I got a combo like the one below. A single-stage pump is fine, 3cfm is fine, long as the ultimate vacuum gets below 29" Hg (25 Torr absolute pressure). My pump has an ultimate vacuum of 5 Torr, but realistically it's not going to get below 15 under normal use.
- Combo: https://www.amazon.com/ProVac-gallo...?srs=9521772011 I started out with 2 chambers and 1 pump. Eventually got 2 more chambers so I could mix more colors at once.


Other stuff:
- Mylar sheets: https://www.amazon.com/Mylar-Stenci...?srs=9521772011 I did not get my mylar online, but if you are going to get it there, get it as thick as you can. This is 7.5 mil. Get at least 6 feet of it because you'll be using a lot.
- Mixing bowls: https://www.amazon.com/5-Quart-Heav...r_1_7?s=kitchen I THINK these will fit in the 3gal chamber above. If you use other bowls, make sure they're entirely metal. Wide bowls are better than tall ones, as long as they'll fit in your chamber. These are 5-quart bowls and will hold about 1L of silicone during degassing.
- Toothpicks: https://www.amazon.com/Good-Old-Val...r_1_2?s=kitchen Use these to collect pigment and stir it into your silicone before degassing. Also good for getting the stuff out from under your fingernails after it cures.
- Packing tape: https://www.amazon.com/Rolls-Grade-...office-products You will use a lot of this. Tape your mold together, tape the mylar around the model, tape the mylar strip to the top of the mold, tape your packages together.
- Spoons for stirring the silicone - you should have some on hand. If you don't have a spoon, then I just don't know what to say.
- Measuring cups: https://www.smooth-on.com/product-l...ing-containers/ In all likelihood, you won't need anything that can measure more than 500mL. I use 300mL cups for pretty much everything. Get something that's graduated in 50mL increments or smaller.
- Custard dishes: https://www.amazon.com/Anchor-Hocki...S2HE/ref=sr_1_4 Custard dishes for making suction cups. Get some smaller ones for smaller toys if you like.
- Cardboard boxes: https://www.amazon.com/Pratt-Recycl...f=pd_sim_328_21 That is a pretty phallic box that will fit bigger toys. Small ones can be stuffed in 4", 5", or 6" cube boxes. Silicone toys can be stuck in a plastic bag and put in the box with no other protection.


I might've forgotten a couple small things. Let me know if you notice anything that's in the videos but not in the list.

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ExecuDork
Feb 25, 2007

We might be fucked, sir.

Fallen Rib

The Lone Badger posted:

Polonium's an alpha emitter, it'd just make the dong self-warming. You'd want to use a gamma emitter as a core.

Or a beta emitter.

quote:

Salguerio et al., designed 32 P brachytherapy patch source (1 mm in height 5 mm in dia.) for skin diseases using phosphoric acid and chromic phosphate in combination with natural rubber or silicone and evaluated its therapeutic efficacy. They reported arrest of tumor growth and complete regression of tumor in some cases with 40 Gy of single-dose scheme in animal studies.
The short version is: scientists have successfully used 32P embedded in silicone rubber* to provide radiation treatment for tumors. If you can dose enough rads to kill a tumor, you can dose enough rads to cause one or kill healthy tissue. The advantage of 32P in this (criminal) context is its short half-life, about 2 weeks. Build a killer dildo with a thin outer layer containing 32P in a chemical form that won't be too noticeable as a contaminant in home-brew silicone. Note that you don't need very much at all, less than 1ppm compared to the surrounding silicone, so just don't make a P-salt with a really weird counter ion - I don't know if the chromium in chromic phosphate would show up as a red flag in any standard-practices kind of analyses**. Make sure your victim uses the dildo within a few days.

Dose is hard to predict, unless you're operating the dildo for them, in which case your own hand is going to get dosed, too. Plus the whole being-there-when-they-fell-ill thing, kinda suspicious. It's concievable, though, that your victim will take enough radiation to get sick, possibly lethally sick. Make sure the dildo doesn't get measured for radioactivity - find some excuse to take it back after they've had a couple of weeks to play with it, you don't have to wait for them to croak - for at least 5 months (10 half-lives). Beyond that, the radioactivity of the dildo will have decayed to indistinguishable from background. With a lot of luck, the dildo is no longer radioactive before your victim even becomes sick.

If you want to kill someone quickly, this isn't the way to do it. Polonium in the tea, yeah. Phosphorus in the butt, not so much.

* I just skimmed the article very superficially, I don't know if they specify the chemical formulation of the "silicone rubber"
** Aside: almost everybody seems to think their job or life experiences give them some key insight that would allow them to commit murder and get away with it. I think the only people for whom this might be even slightly true are homicide detectives.

I feel like I should probably be on a watch list now, for the good of everyone.

value-brand cereal
May 2, 2008

Does it feel like your love life has gotten a bit stale? Do you suspect that your partner is no longer attracted to you? Why not do what the ancient assyrians did and smear crushed Lobsta Fahts on their cock before applying a thin layer of Iron Dust on your Junk. They won’t be able to resist you.


Dildomancer posted:

Shopping list for making dongs
...
I might've forgotten a couple small things. Let me know if you notice anything that's in the videos but not in the list.

We've come such a long way from carving bellends onto sticks picked up off the ground This is fascinating.

Dildomancer
Aug 8, 2016

No sense of right or wrong.


ExecuDork posted:

Or a beta emitter.

The short version is: scientists have successfully used 32P embedded in silicone rubber* to provide radiation treatment for tumors. If you can dose enough rads to kill a tumor, you can dose enough rads to cause one or kill healthy tissue. The advantage of 32P in this (criminal) context is its short half-life, about 2 weeks. Build a killer dildo with a thin outer layer containing 32P in a chemical form that won't be too noticeable as a contaminant in home-brew silicone. Note that you don't need very much at all, less than 1ppm compared to the surrounding silicone, so just don't make a P-salt with a really weird counter ion - I don't know if the chromium in chromic phosphate would show up as a red flag in any standard-practices kind of analyses**. Make sure your victim uses the dildo within a few days.

It would be better to put your beta (or neutron) emitter in a bottle of lube included as a freebie with the toy. Just an ounce or so, and then it'll be completely used on the first go-around. I doubt anyone will be running santorum through a mass spectrometer.


Wedemeyer posted:

We've come such a long way from carving bellends onto sticks picked up off the ground This is fascinating.

It really is! We're using a platinum-catalyzed polymerization reaction between two synthetic compounds, along with some embedded petrochemical dyes and europium-based phosphorescent crystals. The process involves briefly removing all the air from around the components and curing can be accelerated with a heat gun, both powered by a continent-spanning electrical grid. The raw materials come from every corner of the Earth: hydrocarbons, silica, wood, clay, precious metals, shipped by transports traveling faster than anyone could dream of moving two lifetimes ago. Facilitated by a worldwide network that transmits information at the speed of light, all of these components are prepared, packaged, and then shipped to arrive at our door just as they're needed.

And then we stick it up our butts.

ExecuDork
Feb 25, 2007

We might be fucked, sir.

Fallen Rib

Dildomancer posted:

It would be better to put your beta (or neutron) emitter in a bottle of lube included as a freebie with the toy. Just an ounce or so, and then it'll be completely used on the first go-around. I doubt anyone will be running santorum through a mass spectrometer.
It wouldn't take a mass spec, just a geiger counter. 32P makes a geiger counter scream.
But the lube idea is why I'd go to prison. I didn't think of that, and my "take back the dong" idea is dumb and awkward.

Getting away from murder-by-big-hard-dick chat, did you ever include lube or anything else as a freebie? Did you have any kind of customer-loyalty or rewards program?

The Lone Badger
Sep 24, 2007



How does a new fantasy-dildo begin? Do you sit there with a sketchpad "Hmmm, what if I made one with a knob here and a series of ridges here...
Do anatomical research into locations of nerve clusters and experiment with prototype dongs and a fleshlight to determine optimum angle?
Receive detailed sketches from a commissioner of exactly what it should look like?

Dildomancer
Aug 8, 2016

No sense of right or wrong.


ExecuDork posted:

Getting away from murder-by-big-hard-dick chat, did you ever include lube or anything else as a freebie? Did you have any kind of customer-loyalty or rewards program?

I don't have any good way to make or bottle lube, so not really, but I did order lube from Amazon and mail it to an international customer who couldn't get it themselves.

I do put in freebies: a silicone fish or two in nice colors. See, it's a good plan to mix more silicone than you actually need for a toy. That way, if you underestimate or spill a bit, you don't have to make a second batch and fret over the colors being slightly different. In most cases, this results in you having an extra 25-50mL of colored, degassed silicone when you're done pouring the toy. Just dump that into a chocolate mold. I have some fish-shaped chocolate molds, so if someone orders a pink dong with blue sparkles, they'll probably get a pink fish with blue sparkles along with it. These fish also make good firmness samples for someone who is wondering which firmness they should go with.



For customer loyalty programs, I didn't have anything official, but I was a lot more accommodating and generous toward repeat customers. I'd accept more difficult projects (tons of stripes, painted toys, tubes) as well. It's probably horrible, but I used to be really trusting of everyone and gradually learned that nobody deserves immediate trust; if they've been with you for a while, you can start to open up and take on more risk.


The Lone Badger posted:

How does a new fantasy-dildo begin? Do you sit there with a sketchpad "Hmmm, what if I made one with a knob here and a series of ridges here...
Do anatomical research into locations of nerve clusters and experiment with prototype dongs and a fleshlight to determine optimum angle?
Receive detailed sketches from a commissioner of exactly what it should look like?

Typically I would get orders from the commissioner. They can be as vague as "like your other toy but shorter and pointy," or they can be a fully fleshed out 3D model. Pencil sketches seem to be the most popular. So long as I have some idea of what to do, plus dimensions, I can make the clay model and send them a picture. They suggest changes, if any, and then it goes into production. 3D renderings or photo references are the easiest to work with. You just have to be careful because, like with art, some people are really picky and won't be satisfied until every last dimple matches their Blender model.

Most customers who are willing to commission a brand new toy have a pretty good idea of what they want and what would feel good. There are some exceptions. One toy, well... I'll let you see for yourself.



There are some toys I've designed completely on my own. I'll admit, since I don't really use them myself, I made some mistakes at first and gradually learned what makes a good hole-filler. On top of that, some toys really can't be poured without trapping air bubbles. Degassing mitigates this somewhat (the silicone will absorb small bubbles after being poured), but some designs are just hopeless.

Scudworth
Jan 1, 2005

When life gives you lemons, you clone those lemons, and make super lemons.



Dinosaur Gum

Did that customer just straight up ask for a Christmas tree they could shove?

Antivehicular
Dec 30, 2011

I wanna sing one for the cars
That are right now headed silent down the highway
And it's dark and there is nobody driving
And something has got to give


Ultra Carp

I'm thinking "snail shell?" Also thinking "AAAAGH NO."

Dildomancer
Aug 8, 2016

No sense of right or wrong.


The silicone is squishy and would, uh... well, I can't say it would feel comfortable because the customer told me afterward that the design was overzealous and he hadn't been able to use it.

Fauxtool
Oct 21, 2008



Dildomancer posted:

The silicone is squishy and would, uh... well, I can't say it would feel comfortable because the customer told me afterward that the design was overzealous and he hadn't been able to use it.

i think i could have told him that without having to use it.

Have you ever made one with a lot of hair like projections like a sea anemone?

How thin can you make them before you risk breakage?

Dildomancer
Aug 8, 2016

No sense of right or wrong.


Fauxtool posted:

i think i could have told him that without having to use it.

Have you ever made one with a lot of hair like projections like a sea anemone?

How thin can you make them before you risk breakage?

The smallest protrusions I've successfully poured are the scales on the base of one of my toys, about as small and sharp as a pencil tip. I haven't done anything with hairlike projections because they would be very tough to pour without entrapping bubbles. Might be able to get little nubs 1mm in diameter and ~5mm long without problems. Anything narrower or longer is less likely to work.

As for how thin you can make it, I think that the elongation at break is more important than the ultimate strength. For example, a 1/4" diameter cylinder of Dragon Skin 10 can technically support a weight of about 22 pounds before breaking. As you load it, though, it will stretch to 10x its original length. In typical use, you will not have an opportunity or a reason to stretch a toy that much. The only time I've ever torn silicone was when it got scratched or cut, which concentrates strain in much the same way that cracks in metal do.

For practical purposes, mostly just to avoid entrapping air as you pour silicone, I'd avoid making any neck narrower than 1/2".

Here are the material properties of the silicone I use:

Dragon Skin 20: 620% elongation at break, tensile strength 550psi
Dragon Skin 10: 1000% elongation at break, tensile strength 475psi
Ecoflex 00-50: 980% elongation at break, tensile strength 315psi
Ecoflex 00-20: 845% elongation at break, tensile strength 160psi (making it the most vulnerable to tearing at small cross-sections)

Fauxtool
Oct 21, 2008



i appreciate the serious answers on a subject that i cant stop giggling about

The Lone Badger
Sep 24, 2007



Why is it called Dragonskin? Did they know people were going to be using it to make dragondongers?

On that subject, what would you say was your most popular/common dildo type?

Dildomancer
Aug 8, 2016

No sense of right or wrong.


The Lone Badger posted:

Why is it called Dragonskin? Did they know people were going to be using it to make dragondongers?

On that subject, what would you say was your most popular/common dildo type?

You'd have to ask Smooth-On why they chose that name, though I'd reckon it has something to do with the special effects business.

I mentioned earlier that the most popular ones tended to be the cheapest ones. Of those, two in particular were very good sellers: a long one with ridges, bumps, and a knot, and a shorter one with spirals and a knot.



and



Bonus pretty picture:

bitterandtwisted
Sep 4, 2006





Someone voted 4 on this thread. I want to hear that person's opinions of fantasy dildos

value-brand cereal
May 2, 2008

Does it feel like your love life has gotten a bit stale? Do you suspect that your partner is no longer attracted to you? Why not do what the ancient assyrians did and smear crushed Lobsta Fahts on their cock before applying a thin layer of Iron Dust on your Junk. They won’t be able to resist you.


bitterandtwisted posted:

Someone voted 4 on this thread. I want to hear that person's opinions of fantasy dildos

Perhaps they were expecting Thranduil elf cock and not dragon dick

Sethur
Apr 18, 2007
I paid for this account with imaginary internet spaceship money.

Dildomancer posted:

There are a couple ways to make a core:

1) Fill your mold with soft silicone, let it partially cure, upend it and dump out most of the (now very gooey) silicone. Pour firm silicone into the void.
-or-
2) Put a solid object (I use a PVC pipe with the end capped) in the silicone before it cures. Remove after curing (hope you used release agent). Pour firm silicone into the void.

Is there a reason you couldn't just pre-manufacture a firmer core (maybe just a simple tube or cone shape) and then stick that into the softer silicone as it cures? Will the two parts not bond well or something? It seems like it'd be less wasteful than your first option and easier than your second one, since you don't have to remove the placeholder object, and you could even completely submerge it so you don't potentially have different colorations on the base from the different materials.

Animale
Sep 30, 2009


I want to hear about the dildo drama! Did anyone steal your designs? Do those feuding make battle cocks and then hit each other until someone submits?

BirdOfPlay
Feb 19, 2012

THUNDERDOME LOSER


I know it's a fake dong, but that shark is adorable. Especially it's dopey face. People probably care more about you tentacle and horse/dog inspired dongs, but did you make any others that had that kind of "cuteness"?

Dildomancer
Aug 8, 2016

No sense of right or wrong.


Sethur posted:

Is there a reason you couldn't just pre-manufacture a firmer core (maybe just a simple tube or cone shape) and then stick that into the softer silicone as it cures? Will the two parts not bond well or something? It seems like it'd be less wasteful than your first option and easier than your second one, since you don't have to remove the placeholder object, and you could even completely submerge it so you don't potentially have different colorations on the base from the different materials.

Since liquid silicone and cured silicone have the same densities, there would be no way to stop it from sinking/tipping/otherwise touching the edges. The PVC pipe is denser (especially if you fill it with coins) and will stay vertical, right where it's pinned.


Animale posted:

I want to hear about the dildo drama! Did anyone steal your designs? Do those feuding make battle cocks and then hit each other until someone submits?

Stealing designs is a gray area, because no two dildo designs are completely identical (with the exception below). Every design that's a dog dick or a horse dick or a human dick will be very similar; it's the tweaks and touches that make them unique. More fanciful designs, like the shark one, are typically not copied because the entire community would come down HARD. The exception is if you are a very big company with a largely oblivious customer base that doesn't care about bad press. I did have someone come up with a design moderately similar to one of mine and asked if I'd be ok with them making it, and I asked them not to. Another person made a similar design to one of mine and didn't ask. Someone else brought it to my attention and was incensed, but really it didn't bother me too much. I'm not going to sue someone over a dildo and have that attached to my name forever.

The exception: a dude in Switzerland bought some of my toys along with a bunch of others from other independent makers, then sold them as his own with a ridiculous mark-up. I was kind of fascinated, really - I knew people had been selling my toys used for more than I charged, but this dude was actually claiming he made all these toys. What the hell was his endgame? He could only get one of each to sell, a bunch of other people C&D'd him, and nobody will ever make a toy for him again.

For the feuding battle cocks, I've done that with silicone tentacles and it's awesome. Fuckers can leave a mark.


BirdOfPlay posted:

I know it's a fake dong, but that shark is adorable. Especially it's dopey face. People probably care more about you tentacle and horse/dog inspired dongs, but did you make any others that had that kind of "cuteness"?

Absolutely! Have more cute toys:





These almost aren't worth spoilering because of their adorability and lack of phallicity, but I still haven't gotten a mod's ok to post these inline.

The Lone Badger
Sep 24, 2007



Do there tend to be significant differences in the design of dildos designed for vaginal and rectal use? Or is it pretty much 'one size fits all holes'?

The Lone Badger fucked around with this message at 21:34 on Aug 12, 2016

Dildomancer
Aug 8, 2016

No sense of right or wrong.


The Lone Badger posted:

Do there tend to be significant differences in the design of dildos designed for vaginal and rectal use? Or is it pretty much 'one size fits all'?

That is a good question! There are indeed design differences. I didn't have to deal with this toooo much since most of my dongs were customer designs, but those ostensibly for anal use were typically longer and, on the whole, smoother (though there is plenty of variation). Having a stiff dildo longer than seven or eight inches is basically pointless for vaginal use unless you've got a kink for cervical pain.

Likewise, if the toy is going to have a knot, anal toys typically have a longer neck between the bottom of the knot and the toy's base. If you're wondering why that is, try taking a knot and then standing up and walking around with it.

Some of the most popular vaginal-oriented toys are conical, highly textured, and are intended more for external stimulation. Others have nubs near the tip for g-spot stimulation. One particular toy I made turned out to be extremely effective for that. The original design was done by someone with a vag, so I guess that's why.

One last distinction - anal toys tend to have pointy tips so they're easier to insert gradually. Blunt tips are fine for the other hole.

greazeball
Feb 4, 2003





Oven Wrangler

Dildomancer posted:

The exception: a dude in Switzerland bought some of my toys along with a bunch of others from other independent makers, then sold them as his own with a ridiculous mark-up. I was kind of fascinated, really - I knew people had been selling my toys used for more than I charged, but this dude was actually claiming he made all these toys. What the hell was his endgame? He could only get one of each to sell, a bunch of other people C&D'd him, and nobody will ever make a toy for him again.

It's because things in Switzerland generally cost at least 2-3x what they cost in the US and based on what you said you charged, I can imagine he made a good profit. Example, here's a non-vibrating dildo for about $79 (links are NWS, obviously): http://www.planetlove.ch/dildo-the-boss/#prettyPhoto Maybe price inflation isn't as extreme with sex toys as it is with coffee and eating out though, cos here's the same toy for $60 at a sex shop in SF: http://www.goodvibes.com/s/sex-toys...-silicone-dildo Either way, shoppers in Switzerland are loving rubes and get taken to the cleaners all the drat time so dude probably had no trouble making money on hand-made special snowflake sex toys.

Anne Whateley
Feb 11, 2007
i like nice words


Dildomancer posted:

Having a stiff dildo longer than seven or eight inches is basically pointless for vaginal use unless you've got a kink for cervical pain.
Can I ask what percent of your customers were cis women? I think almost all mainstream penetrative sex toys are at least in that range -- it's a relatively reasonable size, plus you have to be able to hold it!

Vaginal toys also don't need a flared base since there's nowhere for it to go.

Scudworth
Jan 1, 2005

When life gives you lemons, you clone those lemons, and make super lemons.



Dinosaur Gum

Dildomancer posted:

I knew people had been selling my toys used for more than I charged


Look I know you can boil and sterilize silicone several ways but

VanSandman
Feb 16, 2011
SWAP.AVI EXCHANGER

What's the most ridiculous thing you ever made, and what orifice was it designed for?

Same question, but biggest instead of ridiculous.


What's the latest in dildotech?

Fauxtool
Oct 21, 2008



everyone knows the future is in VR

Dildomancer
Aug 8, 2016

No sense of right or wrong.


Anne Whateley posted:

Can I ask what percent of your customers were cis women? I think almost all mainstream penetrative sex toys are at least in that range -- it's a relatively reasonable size, plus you have to be able to hold it!

Vaginal toys also don't need a flared base since there's nowhere for it to go.

It was at least half of them. I guess I should clarify that I meant usable length (a bit of a subjective term), not total length. I do know there's some variability in vaginal depth, though. Good point about the toys without a flared base, but the only ones I make without a flared base are things like eggs and spheres. Just because it's intended for vaginal use doesn't mean someone won't occasionally try the other hole and end up coming after you for hospital bills.


Scudworth posted:

Look I know you can boil and sterilize silicone several ways but

I don't really get it, either. I wouldn't ever want a used toy. But hey, the used toy market is pretty darn big, so there must be plenty of people who do (or just can't afford to pay full price).


VanSandman posted:

What's the most ridiculous thing you ever made, and what orifice was it designed for?

Same question, but biggest instead of ridiculous.

What's the latest in dildotech?

Most ridiculous were the poopdongs, but I refused to make those. The most ridiculous I ever made was the radish. Like I said, it turned out badly, so I don't have any good pictures, but basically it's a 4" sphere with a pair of thin, floppy leaves and a relatively narrow root connecting it to the base. It was for anal use. All of the huge toys I've made were for anal use.

Biggest by length: a 5' x 1.5" tentacle - customer managed to take at least half
Biggest by width: a 6.1" diameter (over 19" circumference) egg with a robust cord sticking out one end - customer did not manage to take it
Biggest by volume: a huge spiny cock - customer took on the first go and pondered commissioning a bigger one

Pictures follow. Imagine, if you will, Kirk Johnson swallowing the third one up.







Now the latest in dildotech: remote-controlled, articulated toys with haptic feedback for long-term relationships. One partner gets a fleshlight, the other gets a dildo. They each have servos, vibrators, and pressure sensors. Live remote fucksession with the bonus of being able to use a fantasy dilz or vag.

sleppy
Dec 25, 2008



Hahahaha I was not expecting Yoshi's egg attached to a braid for the second one. They all look neat though, and I wouldn't be able to resist flinging the five footer around. When you mention their levels of success, did you have like a reviewing system? Or did these people just like to email you with updates on how far your product went up their butt?

Dildomancer
Aug 8, 2016

No sense of right or wrong.


sleppy posted:

Hahahaha I was not expecting Yoshi's egg attached to a braid for the second one. They all look neat though, and I wouldn't be able to resist flinging the five footer around. When you mention their levels of success, did you have like a reviewing system? Or did these people just like to email you with updates on how far your product went up their butt?

I didn't have a set reviewing system since I didn't have a dedicated website. At least one other manufacturer gives a gift certificate for customers who complete a public review, but I already had too many customers to serve properly.

Repeat customers and design commissioners typically ended up becoming friends because they're in frequent contact, so I'd hear a lot about the toys. Even one-time customers will sometimes send a PM or email talking about their experiences. The Yoshi egg was different because it was a one-off, and months later, the curiosity had built so much that I just HAD to send a PM and ask.

Future Wax
Feb 17, 2011

There is no inherent quantity of driving that I can increase!

Ramrod XTreme


How do you get the sort of marbled look that these ones have? The blue one looks pretty neat.

Dildomancer
Aug 8, 2016

No sense of right or wrong.


Choose Deth posted:

How do you get the sort of marbled look that these ones have? The blue one looks pretty neat.

It's all a matter of your pouring methodology. I should be releasing a video today on marbling techniques, so I guess you picked a good time to ask!

Essentially, you just get your two colors, one bowl in each hand, and go back and forth with your pouring. You move the bowls around so you're not pouring from the same angle all the time (otherwise you get a zigzag pattern). The smaller the amount you pour at a time, the finer the marbling will be. Another manufacturer, DamnAverage, does some incredibly detailed marbling. The trick is not to let the silicone drip down the sides of the mold as you do it, which is incredibly difficult with a slender dong like this. It takes a lot of technique, especially with more viscous silicone, to keep that from happening.

For the toy on the right, combine that technique with another trick: putting multiple colors in the same bowl. If you have a small amount of one strongly colored silicone, and you pour slowly to keep the flow laminar, it makes that thin stripy look you see near the tip.

Soylent Yellow
Nov 5, 2010

yospos


You mentioned hospital bills earlier, possibly jokingly. Is serious injury/death by dildo a common occurrence? Have you ever refused to make a design for safety reasons?

Dildomancer
Aug 8, 2016

No sense of right or wrong.


Soylent Yellow posted:

You mentioned hospital bills earlier, possibly jokingly. Is serious injury/death by dildo a common occurrence? Have you ever refused to make a design for safety reasons?

That would be a better question to ask one of the medical megathreads. They mention dildo misadventures happen so frequently that they're rarely worth posting. Most serious injuries are caused by people using something not intended for insertion, like eels or glass bottles. Those frequently lead to surgery and, sometimes, death. I don't know of any dildos killing someone, but it's probably happened.

I've never refused to make a design for safety reasons; I've just made them safe (adding a flared base, for example, or making them out of soft silicone) and, when necessary, warned the customer against misuse.

Chillbro Baggins
Oct 8, 2004
Bad Angus! Bad!


How much would it cost to get the one Saints' Row weapon made (for cosplay purposes, of course, though I'm sure you could sell a few from the same mold to some of your regular customers)?



It's about 3 feet from balls to tip, for scale. Also, unsurprisingly, it's been done, but the ones I saw while looking for a screenshot don't look quite right, the in-game model is floppier and has a glossier finish.

Fauxtool
Oct 21, 2008



that 3ft dildo is unrealistically vascular

Dildomancer
Aug 8, 2016

No sense of right or wrong.


Delivery McGee posted:

How much would it cost to get the one Saints' Row weapon made (for cosplay purposes, of course, though I'm sure you could sell a few from the same mold to some of your regular customers)?



It's about 3 feet from balls to tip, for scale. Also, unsurprisingly, it's been done, but the ones I saw while looking for a screenshot don't look quite right, the in-game model is floppier and has a glossier finish.

Hmm... assuming THE PENETRATOR has a 3.5" diameter, that's about 6.2 liters of silicone, or $155. The mold would be pricey, though - at least $300. With that length, you'd probably need a stiff mold made of urethane or something due to the hydrostatic pressure at the bottom. You can modify the stiffness or glossiness as needed. To get the deflection shown in the screencap, take a sawed-off baseball bat, paint it purple, and embed it in the first foot and a half.


Fauxtool posted:

that 3ft dildo is unrealistically vascular

Some people really like veiny dongs, which I don't quite understand. It must feel pretty nice, because otherwise it just looks like worms crawling underneath the skin.

Blue Wher
Apr 27, 2010

The Smart Baseball Dargon Sez:

"Baseball is chaos!"

His bat is signed by Carl "Yaz" Yastrzemski


Dildomancer posted:

but I also found out that some people have a pink sock fetish, so that's not as surprising as you might think.

It is rare in this day and age I find out about a fetish that absolutely freaks me out. This one is appalling and frightening. I am impressed. Bravo.

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Dildomancer
Aug 8, 2016

No sense of right or wrong.


I just got a dreaded letter from the USPS saying my box of two dildos and a pint of lube going to a friend in England got "damaged in handling." Normally, they send back the damaged box. All I got was the cardboard front panel.

Looks like I gotta swallow my pride and fill out a claims form, then send it down to Georgia, where I'm pretty sure there are still anti-dildo laws on the books. I guess it's a good thing I put the full value on the customs form, otherwise I might not get anything back.

Blue Wher posted:

It is rare in this day and age I find out about a fetish that absolutely freaks me out. This one is appalling and frightening. I am impressed. Bravo.

Some folks purposely induce the vaginal equivalent with a suction cup. Sleep well~

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