|
The Repo Man posted:Nathan Wallace from Repo! The Genetic Opera. A terrible movie with some good costume design. Teenage me is swooning. e: of COURSE it's a new page
|
#
?
Oct 15, 2016 02:42
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 25, 2024 01:43 |
|
|
The Repo Man posted:So back to the thread subject, whenever I see artists take commissions on tumblr they usually open X number of commision slots so they don't get overwhelmed. Did you ever do that, Dildomancer, or do you think there is so much competition you would be worried you would lose potential customers? I did that at first, but they would literally get filled up within a minute or two, and then people got super frustrated when they waited all week for a slot and missed it because they didn't reload at exactly the right time. From there, I went to a slightly more fair system where I would open up for ~1/2 hour at a time once every month or two and just take all comers, then re-open when I'd finished them all. I was never worried about losing potential customers.
|
|
#
?
Oct 15, 2016 04:31
|
|
|
i didnt think people were so hungry for dicks
|
|
#
?
Oct 15, 2016 04:38
|
|
|
Fauxtool posted:i didnt think people were so hungry for dicks Please re-read pages 3-25 of this thread and reflect on its puntl-praying populace.
|
|
#
?
Oct 15, 2016 05:15
|
|
|
That's very encouraging. I'm interested in getting into this whole thing, and it's good to know that there are plenty of customers. I've made 8 models so far, and my first two molds are almost done curing.
|
|
#
?
Oct 15, 2016 05:16
|
|
|
Fauxtool posted:i didnt think people were so hungry for dicks You know all the jokes about people around a clearance rack you see on sitcoms? It's basically exactly like that, except with fantasy dicks.
|
|
#
?
Oct 15, 2016 05:26
|
|
|
I think the idea of scarcity also works to drum up interest. "Hey, this dude is really cheap and makes cool unique toys, but he only does one a day" is a lot more enticing and premium than "here is a company that makes dongs, you can order on their website." The other benefit was super fast turnaround - if I only took orders a dozen at a time, and I made three a day, that means I could finish all of them and have them shipped within a week, whereas many other manufacturers have a long lead time. I remember getting one customer early on who ordered one evening, and I shipped it out the next morning. He was awestruck. For comparison, the one time I decided to order a toy online, it literally took four years to arrive. Obviously that's an outlier, but hell, can you imagine? Those of you who've ordered silicone toys and don't mind outing yourselves, how long did you have to wait? For full disclosure: My current backlog for puntls is a little over 2 weeks.
|
|
#
?
Oct 15, 2016 15:20
|
|
|
Dildomancer posted:For comparison, the one time I decided to order a toy online, it literally took four years to arrive.
|
|
#
?
Oct 15, 2016 15:39
|
|
|
Hirayuki posted:Did they have to find a panda to make the mold or what? It was one person who had gained more popularity than they could handle (I later understood what that was like, and I don't blame them at all). Their backlog was pretty long to begin with, then they must have had a mold failure or something, because the model I ordered was discontinued and I had to choose a new one, which must have bumped me back to the bottom of the queue. Very poor organizational skills for sure. Not everyone is cut out for selling dongs since it takes so many skills to pull off: sculpture, molding, a little bit of industrial engineering, high school math, economics, organization, people skills, technological proficiency, marketing, and discipline. To some extent, all small businesses have similar requirements, and most small businesses fail quickly.
|
|
#
?
Oct 15, 2016 15:51
|
|
|
I got my fishies (like a week ago but forgot to post them)! They're very pretty.  Some of them kinda stick to my fridge!  I didn't want an actual dong, but Dildomancer obviously hides dongs in all he does. Some of the fish heads are reminiscent of his craft.  Also, orcs are afoot  
|
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2016 00:31
|
|
|
That's gotta lead to fun conversations.  What's with the fish? Oh this dildo craftsman I know online made them out of left over silicone for me. Oh... okay...
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2016 19:02
|
|
|
Bespoke artisinal dildos, no less.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2016 19:05
|
|
|
Ravenfood posted:Bespoke artisinal dildos, no less. Artisanal
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2016 19:36
|
|
|
Dildomancer, can you tell me a little about the Smooth On Silc Pig pigments? I've experimented a bit with the pigments I've bought from a German supplier. They have two basic variants: Paste (looks and feels like paint): This provides a full, solid and flat coloration of the otherwise opaque silicone. No opacity left. Pigment (looks like make-up powder): This is kind of like tiny flecks of glitter, it doesn't fully color the silicone, but it ends up giving the whole piece a cool looking opaque/colored looked, with tiny tiny flecks/streaks of color everywhere, depending on how much you use. What kind is the Silc Pig 9 pack sampler? I think the pigment gives an amazing look, while the paste gives a slightly boring look, because it's just 100% solid colored. Also, I had some good progress in my experiments. As mentioned, I tried to make a mold of A10, and it turned out really well. It allows me to extract the dong without a cut/seam, which I think is awesome, you just stick down you hand and "dig" while pulling out the dong of the hole (hehe). Here's a pic:  The gold dong is made with the powder pigment I mentioned, and the blue mold is made with paste. Regarding the release agent stench from my first prototype, a few observations: 1) I think the biggest mistake I made was to spray the mold seconds before pouring the silicone. Not to blame you, but in your Vimeo video guide (the 5-part series), you sprayed fresh release agent, then cut to where you immediately after poured silicone. Reading online, it's clear that the release agent needs to dry first. I can't find any specifics, but I tried letting it dry for 20 minutes and it turned out good. 2) With time (a few days), the smell evaporates a bit on its own 3) A soaking and rubbing in warm water and dish washing liquid helps remove the pencil eraser fluff and the smell from the release agent 4) Since you don't need to use that much release agent after the first cast, it's okay that the first prototype smells a little, then for subsequent dongs, you can use one quick coating, and it won't smell so much I also found a good everyday items to use for wrapping around the top of the mold when casting: Laminating paper. Cheap, thin, easy to cut, easy to tape, and doesn't stick to silicone. I just can't find that "mylar sheet" you talk about here, is it like those opaque sheets of special paper that architects use to draw on? Thanks again for your help. 
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2016 21:38
|
|
|
Bum the Sad posted:That's gotta lead to fun conversations. Yea, My wife had this conversation with my mum. "Where'd you get the fish" "Just a guy who makes stuff, it's the spare silicone".
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2016 22:33
|
|
|
Only one puntl left in the backlog, and then I'm done! It's been a lot of fun making them for you all, but I will be very glad to have my free time back, especially considering I'm going on a vacation in a couple weeks. In the extremely rare chance any of you are on Tenerife, let me know and we can hang out and talk dongs.Pilsner posted:Dildomancer, can you tell me a little about the Smooth On Silc Pig pigments? I've experimented a bit with the pigments I've bought from a German supplier. They have two basic variants: Silc-Pig is like the paste you mention. You don't need to use a lot of it if you'd prefer to keep a bit of the silicone's translucency, but regardless, it's going to come out as a flat color if it's the only thing you use. Depending on how well you mix it into the silicone, you can also achieve a streaky or stripy effect, though a warning: using too much in this situation can lead to little pockets of ONLY pigment, which will cause problems if they're on the surface. You can get glitter powder in big containers on Amazon or whatever your local online retailer of choice is. Look for cosmetic mica. The result you got is typical of using a small amount of powder, but if you dump in much more, the effect will become a striking metallic luster. It's cool that you were able to make a glove mold like that. My concern has always been getting the original clay model out intact, which I haven't always been able to do, even after cutting several slits. And yeah, perhaps I should have mentioned letting it dry first. It should fully dry between each coat. Laminating paper is pretty thin, but if it was able to withstand the hydrostatic pressure as you were pouring silicone into the mold, then it seems like it could serve as a replacement for mylar. It is indeed the stuff architects (used to) use for drawing on. Pretty much everyone I know uses electronic files these days, but some old-school places may still print on mylar.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2016 23:42
|
|
|
Dildomancer posted:but some old-school places may still print on mylar. Mylar is used all the time in printing inserts for fancy invitations and drawing with art markers.
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2016 01:32
|
|
|
Dildomancer posted:. In the extremely rare chance any of you are on Tenerife, let me know and we can hang out and talk dongs.. Why would an American go through all that effort and flying to go to Tenerife? It's a short hop for EU but for you it's like lots of hours of flying. 
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2016 09:30
|
|
|
Dildomancer posted:Silc-Pig is like the paste you mention. You don't need to use a lot of it if you'd prefer to keep a bit of the silicone's translucency, but regardless, it's going to come out as a flat color if it's the only thing you use. Depending on how well you mix it into the silicone, you can also achieve a streaky or stripy effect, though a warning: using too much in this situation can lead to little pockets of ONLY pigment, which will cause problems if they're on the surface. http://www.mineralmakeupingredients.co.uk/epages/BT3899.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/BT3899/Categories/Mica_Powder The question is: Is this body safe? And will it interfere with the platinum silicone curing? What's your experience? Regarding the dong extracting, yes it was a bit of work getting the clay piece out, but it came out 100% intact after using quite a bit of force. I'm impressed at how hard the Fimo clay gets after hardening. I also tried "patching" a few cracks and imperfections in my first clay prototype. I slapped on some more clay, re-baked, and made the blue mold with it. The mold turned out well, but upon pulling the clay dong out of the mold, the new clay I had patched with crumbled. I'm thinking perhaps some of the ultra-fine putty that you use for patching small holes in concrete walls could be used to patch a damaged clay dong, but I don't know if there are some compounds in it that might inhibit the silicone curing.
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2016 10:21
|
|
|
Got my extra fish, they're gorgeous and very much worth it. Thank you, Dildomancer for allowing us to fulfill our secret fantasy wishes for floppy dongs! 
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2016 18:46
|
|
|
Oodles posted:Why would an American go through all that effort and flying to go to Tenerife? It's a short hop for EU but for you it's like lots of hours of flying. Well, it's a really long story, but the version I tell people is that I don't want to be anywhere NEAR the US during election day. Pilsner posted:Wow, the cosmetic mica looks like it could creating some amazing colors. Here's a shop I found: Those really are gorgeous colors! I've never had mica interfere with silicone curing, not in the least. If you are unsure about whether it is body safe, I recommend contacting the company and asking them directly. Faerunner posted:Got my extra fish, they're gorgeous and very much worth it. Thank you, Dildomancer for allowing us to fulfill our secret fantasy wishes for floppy dongs! No problem! Same goes to all of you who ordered - it's been lots of fun.
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2016 23:19
|
|
|
Pilsner posted:Hey Dildomancer do you time to provide some help? I dived in and bought the full equipment required to make dongs like you do. I built my own vacuum chamber (pretty easy actually, about $100 of materials + pump), bought silicone, polymer clay, pigment, bowls, tools, all that. I'd actually want to know what silicone you've bought and from where, because getting it from the US is difficult at best.
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2016 23:51
|
|
|
Pilsner posted:Wow, the cosmetic mica looks like it could creating some amazing colors. Here's a shop I found: What kind of clay are you using? If it's polymer clay, you should apply a little vaseline to the area where the "raw" clay is going on to help seal it together.
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2016 04:09
|
|
|
endlessmonotony posted:I'd actually want to know what silicone you've bought and from where, because getting it from the US is difficult at best. https://www.formx.eu/brands/smooth-on/index.php (same as http://www.gestaltungsmaterialien.de/marken/smooth-on/) http://www.benam.co.uk/products/silicone/ http://www.kaupo.de/produkte/silikonkautschuk-additionsvernetzend/smooth-sil-serie/ (German) I found a significantly cheaper producer here (German), they make their own silicone products and have an almost full range of tools, pigments and additives: http://www.silikonfabrik.de/ Their product variety is much smaller than the gargantuan range of various products Smooth-On has, but it's also much cheaper, and with fair shipping prices. How their appropriately named EROSIL-10 silicone compares to Dragon Skin A10, I have no idea, but it seems legit. I've tried their SF-00, SF-A33 and the EROSIL-10 (A10) so far, here are a few impressions: SF-00: Very fluid, fairly easy to degas, but hardens up really quickly. With my weak vacuum pump I was only barely able to mix, degas and pour it in time before it hardened. Creates a very soft, squeezable and floppy dong. EROSIL-10: Quite fluid, easy to degas, enough time to work with before it hardens. Creates a medium-firm dong, but still soft and squeezable. SF-33: Thick and takes some power to degas. When hardened, it's about as hard as a pencil eraser or a rubber doorstop or something. It's also really nice that their silicones comes in 1 liter bottles with screw caps, instead of the buckets Smooth-On is contained in. I've also found there's no reason to pour silicone first into a measuring cup, then into a mixing bowl; I just put my metal mixing bowl on a digital scale and pour silicone directly, while watching the scale. I calculate how many grams I need by multiplying the amount of milliliters I need, by the density of the silicone, and you end up with grams. Example: The silicone you're about to pour has a density of 1.10 grams / ml (look at the manufacturer specs to find the density) You have calculated that you need 250 ml total silicone for your dong + base Multiply 250 * 1.10 = 275. Since silicone is 2-component, divide 275 by 2 = ~137 ml of each component So, you need to pour 137 grams part A silicone, zero the scale, then pour 137 grams part B silicone, and you're ready to color, mix and degas all in the same bowl. Pile of Kittens posted:What kind of clay are you using? If it's polymer clay, you should apply a little vaseline to the area where the "raw" clay is going on to help seal it together.
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2016 11:48
|
|
|
Pilsner, I would definitely contact that mica company and see where their supplier is located and what colorants they're using as well as getting an ok for "lips and eyes" (because you probably don't want to ask the rep about sticking their colored powders in your butt). "Cosmetic Grade" is a poorly defined and unregulated (I found blogs claiming FDA regulation but no clear results on the FDA's actual website about it) term in the US health and beauty industry and it does not mean that it's safe for use around mucous membranes. Many cosmetic products come with warnings about use near lips and eyes. Edit: They provide the MSDS sheets but those are pretty useless as most of the minerals used are "inert", chemically. They still may cause irritation. I suppose you could also just do a patch test on your inner elbow with anything you buy from them. Faerunner fucked around with this message at 16:19 on Oct 19, 2016 |
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2016 16:07
|
|
|
The Repo Man posted:MisterGoGo, do you only have a brain, or do you have a heart also? Otherwise, do you have a defective brain still? It would go great with a costume of mine. Hey, sorry for the delay just got back from New Orleans. I have a couple of defective brains. I could ship either out this week. 1. Bottom is okay, there's a few bubbles on the top. Would have been too much work to fix. I've been pouring leftover silicone and colorant on it so it looks pretty gnarly. 2. Top is mangled all to poo poo, bottom has a temporal lobe and some frontal lobe missing.
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2016 19:26
|
|
|
Faerunner posted:Pilsner, I would definitely contact that mica company and see where their supplier is located and what colorants they're using as well as getting an ok for "lips and eyes" (because you probably don't want to ask the rep about sticking their colored powders in your butt). "Cosmetic Grade" is a poorly defined and unregulated (I found blogs claiming FDA regulation but no clear results on the FDA's actual website about it) term in the US health and beauty industry and it does not mean that it's safe for use around mucous membranes. Many cosmetic products come with warnings about use near lips and eyes.
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2016 19:52
|
|
|
Faerunner posted:Pilsner, I would definitely contact that mica company and see where their supplier is located and what colorants they're using as well as getting an ok for "lips and eyes" (because you probably don't want to ask the rep about sticking their colored powders in your butt). "Cosmetic Grade" is a poorly defined and unregulated (I found blogs claiming FDA regulation but no clear results on the FDA's actual website about it) term in the US health and beauty industry and it does not mean that it's safe for use around mucous membranes. Many cosmetic products come with warnings about use near lips and eyes. Why not a patch test in your butt, for maximum scientific veracity?
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2016 20:50
|
|
|
Pilsner posted:Thanks for the heads up. I can't help but think that the silicone will sort-of entrap or encase all the pigment, though? It's not like the silicone gets worn down physically by being used? Don't play this game with people's assholes, man. Get the safe glitter. This is the greatest post I have made in 11 years here.
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2016 22:01
|
|
|
Oodles posted:Why would an American go through all that effort and flying to go to Tenerife? It's a short hop for EU but for you it's like lots of hours of flying. Tons of Americans go to Europe. It's not that much longer to go to Tenerife, is it?
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2016 23:31
|
|
|
Scudworth posted:Don't play this game with people's assholes, man. Get the safe glitter. Yeah, the last thing you want is someone's family sending you an obituary because they had an allergy to bismuth trioxide or whatever. Anyway, I've completed the puntl backlog! I have a half-dozen extras sitting up on a shelf here, and most of them are fine with some minor flaws. If someone wants a leftover, shoot me a PM or whatever. Other than that, I guess the thread is pretty much complete! If we're going to be talking more about general silicone molding and tips, it would probably be best to make a new thread in the DIY forum and move the discussion there.
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2016 23:34
|
|
|
Dildomancer posted:Yeah, the last thing you want is someone's family sending you an obituary because they had an allergy to bismuth trioxide or whatever.
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2016 23:39
|
|
|
Pilsner posted:OK, but what kind of mica do you buy, and how do you assert that it's rear end-safe? I buy from these folks, who have a handy chart for their mica: http://fromnaturewithlove.com/library/micasafetychart.asp
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2016 23:46
|
|
|
Silver Falcon posted:Tons of Americans go to Europe. It's not that much longer to go to Tenerife, is it? You've got hot places on your doorstep. Can't compute coming to Europe for that.
|
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2016 08:37
|
|
|
MisterGoGo posted:Hey, sorry for the delay just got back from New Orleans. I have a couple of defective brains. I could ship either out this week. I don't have PMs, so would contacting you via your YouTube channel be alright? I would be going for that first brain you posted.
|
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2016 09:42
|
|
|
Oodles posted:You've got hot places on your doorstep. Can't compute coming to Europe for that. Ah OK. I thought it was just the distance that was a factor. If all you're looking for is somewhere hot, then yeah there are plenty of places in the US to go. However, does the continental US have one of the word's tallest volcanoes?  You'd have to go to like, Hawaii for that, and Hawaii is way farther out than Tenerife.EDIT: Anyway, best not to derail further. You can PM me if you really want to talk more about why on Earth an American would want to go to Tenerife. Silver Falcon fucked around with this message at 13:33 on Oct 20, 2016 |
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2016 13:23
|
|
|
Well, I received my puntl in the mail:
|
|
#
?
Oct 21, 2016 22:33
|
|
|
I have that book set, it's rad.
|
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2016 00:33
|
|
|
The Repo Man posted:I don't have PMs, so would contacting you via your YouTube channel be alright? I would be going for that first brain you posted. Yep. Send me one there. Sorry for the delayed response, there was a death in the family and I've been dealing with wakes and funerals for a few days instead of making human organs in my basement. Everyone else: Your brains might be delayed by a day or two, some are going out today though.
|
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2016 20:29
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 25, 2024 01:43 |
|
|
For you silicone wizards, if you know: how are wearable dongs dimensioned? I see them with something like 3 inches internal diameter, but the mean dong circumference when erect is around 5 inches. I presume the idea is to jam the junk in there and the silicone of the wearable stretches around it to fit?
|
|
#
?
Oct 23, 2016 00:43
|
|