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Warmachine posted:Why not extend the GPU > Res connection a bit and save yourself a fitting? Something in the way? I did considered it but the tubing being in front of the res didn't kinda look right.   [edit] I like how the pumps have a really nice black braided pwm wire but exposed power wires. Gonna have to fix that with a cable cover. Don't know if it's a trick of the camera angle or if I need to increase the tube coming out of the flow sensor. :/ 
Ak Gara fucked around with this message at 00:54 on Feb 7, 2021 |
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Feb 7, 2021 00:49
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Has anyone here built a custom loop for an NR200p or a similar ITX case? Looking for recommendations
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Feb 10, 2021 18:22
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All the pipes done. Currently doing an air pressure test. I ran out of M-M fittings so am having to use a weird janky telescopic GPU fitting I had laying around to connect the pressure gauge. I'm not confident in it's ability to hold air. How much pressure drop per hour is normal?  
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Feb 12, 2021 16:02
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Well, Amazon originally predicted somewhere between Feb 23 and Mar 2 for my 20.5mm radiator to replace the 28mm radiator that won't fit. Uh... 
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Feb 12, 2021 16:37
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Ak Gara posted:All the pipes done. Currently doing an air pressure test. I ran out of M-M fittings so am having to use a weird janky telescopic GPU fitting I had laying around to connect the pressure gauge. I'm not confident in it's ability to hold air. If it can hold 0.5 bar for half an hour it's probably water tight.
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Feb 12, 2021 16:45
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It lost 0.04 bar in an hour. Might have to use the washing up liquid to find which fitting(s) need seeing to
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Feb 12, 2021 16:47
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Also don't forget that a tiny bit of pressure drop is normal because of small temperature changes and bits flexing under pressure. Hard to say if 0.04 bar is fine since I don't know your starting pressure, but if it's less than a 10% drop you're probably in a good place. That gauge also looks like an NPT fitting with no teflon tape would be the first fitting I would look for, but there's probably just tape further down the threads out of sight. 
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Feb 12, 2021 20:28
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It's a Dr Drop. I was testing at 0.5 bar so I guess that's less than 10% drop. What I'm going to do is actually just cap off the Dr Drop and test that alone.
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Feb 12, 2021 20:37
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i don't have rigid piping, but for my lovely loop it's normal that i have to refill the tank a little bit (it's a tiny tank) after a week, and then after a month of operation, as all the air bubbles filter out. after that it ran for 4 years with no maintenance outside of removing and dusting the air filters twice a year seriously considering going back to air right now tho. seeing the benches of newest cpus and gpus on water is super whatever. otoh i have a radeon so i could install a spicy bios...
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Feb 12, 2021 21:47
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Truga posted:i don't have rigid piping, but for my lovely loop it's normal that i have to refill the tank a little bit (it's a tiny tank) after a week, and then after a month of operation, as all the air bubbles filter out. For me it is a noise thing and a challenge thing. Spicy bios might be fun though.
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Feb 12, 2021 23:50
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Warmachine posted:For me it is a noise thing and a challenge thing. If your radiator is big enough you can run the cooling without fans altogether!
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Feb 13, 2021 01:01
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I once had an almost silent build. But since then I’ve changed my mind from chasing silence to trying to change the nature of the sound to something I don’t mind. I like a regular fan in the background as some pleasant white noise. Just not coil whine or the sound of smaller fans. Basically box fan with a car radiator is what I’m advocating for I guess.
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Feb 13, 2021 01:48
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yeah my build is completely silent when idle and barely audible when loaded, i have 2x480mm of rad, so fans never really go past ~800 rpm. thing is, i built this when my pc was in my bedroom so i wanted the pc to be silent so it could do poo poo while i sleep, but now it's in another room. the loudest possible thing in the pc is this reference radeon (i'm waiting a month to see if everything's cool before i buy a waterblock), and it's not loud enough even under max load to get through my headphones 
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Feb 13, 2021 02:08
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Coredump posted:I once had an almost silent build. But since then I’ve changed my mind from chasing silence to trying to change the nature of the sound to something I don’t mind. I like a regular fan in the background as some pleasant white noise. Just not coil whine or the sound of smaller fans. Add plumbing to your office with G1/4" threads and put a heat exchanger somewhere else.
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Feb 13, 2021 05:08
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I'm busy collecting all my cooling parts and now it's time for fans. What should I be looking at for quiet at 140mm and 180mm -- is it still Noctua? I'll be running them on the slow side. edit: gently caress it, I went with noctuas AARP LARPer fucked around with this message at 06:04 on Feb 19, 2021 |
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Feb 19, 2021 05:03
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It's still noctua unless you can't stand the color scheme or want LED.
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Feb 19, 2021 12:16
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ilkhan posted:It's still noctua unless you can't stand the color scheme or want LED. Yo I'ma blow your mind. They make black now. (plus Phanteks Halo Digital make any fan DRGB)  I've tried to ignore that drat red wire, but I can't so went and brought some mesh cable wrap stuff. I also got a mains > molex for when I'm filling the loop.  dry location sue only no-sfrviceable parts inside for use withaudio video equifment zone dangereuse made in china I'm sure it'll be fine!
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Feb 19, 2021 13:47
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Warmachine posted:Add plumbing to your office with G1/4" threads and put a heat exchanger somewhere else.
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Feb 19, 2021 13:54
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Ak Gara posted:I've tried to ignore that drat red wire, but I can't so went and brought some mesh cable wrap stuff. This is why I bought heat shrink, paracord, and a set of pin removal tools when I ordered my last fittings and tubing. It doesn't look professional, but it also isn't a black, yellow, blue, and green wire running out of the back of my case. Funny enough, the pin removal tools are from the same company that makes your bootleg power brick.
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Feb 19, 2021 14:17
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Ak Gara posted:dry location sue only Iirc Phobya were a fairly big brand back when watercooling was way more niche than it is today. quote:Phobya is your Avatar with maximum skills: gently caress yeah. 
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Feb 19, 2021 15:16
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Ak Gara posted:dry location sue only Oh, yeah. I also wanted to add that my wrist brace I bought off Amazon had the same level of dodgy labeling on the package. I'd post a pic but I didn't save the packaging. Theophany posted:Iirc Phobya were a fairly big brand back when watercooling was way more niche than it is today. Look, I know I'm the wet blanket (  ) in this thread, but I really hate the GAMER aesthetic in this hobby. Solid fluids make me wince, and while I can't deny that those hard lines look super clean, the idea of lighting the whole thing up in some kinda RGB disco rave makes my 31 year old white collar rear end cringe.Then you have MSI's stupid dragon, ASUS RePuBlIc Of GaMeRs, and whatever that is... it just takes me back to my young adult edgelord days in a real bad way. I replaced all my EK compression fittings with Alphacool because 1) they look more professionally aesthetic and 2) the knurling on the compression ring is easier to grab when you can only get two fingers in at a weird angle to tighten it.
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Feb 19, 2021 15:35
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Ak Gara posted:Yo I'ma blow your mind.
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Feb 19, 2021 21:44
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ilkhan posted:I know. But I try to block that craziness out of my mind as much as possible. Brown means it's better. Chromax is a pretender to the throne.
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Feb 19, 2021 23:02
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Alright, here's one: I want to get an Aquacomputer Quadro. There's limited stock on Aquacomputer's site, but it costs more than the cost of the controller to ship it to the United States. Does anyone know a distributer in the U.S. that has them in stock, or know a way to get it across the ocean without paying twice the cost of the controller in shipping fees?
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Feb 20, 2021 04:49
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Ak Gara posted:Yo I'ma blow your mind. hey, you may be into the shrieking of those black, 13.2 dB jet engines (omfg), but I'll take the 11.9 dB uggos. j/k thanks for getting me to take a second look. I missed the real quiet ones in the black lines when scanning noctua earlier. cheers.
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Feb 20, 2021 06:31
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Not the Redux, not the Industrial PPC, but the Chromax Black. They have the same specs as the brown ones
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Feb 20, 2021 07:23
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Eh, the brown one already arrived. I appreciate you pointing out the others, though. Good to know.Warmachine posted:Alright, here's one: I want to get an Aquacomputer Quadro.Does anyone know a distributer in the U.S. that has them in stock, or know a way to get it across the ocean without paying twice the cost of the controller in shipping fees? Since I've been spending a bunch of time shopping for parts on my own, I spent some time looking for this. I didn't find it anywhere besides those places with outrageous shipping to the US. AARP LARPer fucked around with this message at 22:05 on Feb 20, 2021 |
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Feb 20, 2021 22:01
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I have a question about ram blocks. I'm seeing a lot that are billed as designed for Corsair Dominator modules. They seem to be the only ram brand called out by name like this. How strict is this? I've got Crucial Ballistix. Do I want to avoid those blocks or will they also work with my stuff?
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Feb 26, 2021 03:50
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B-1.1.7 Bomber posted:I have a question about ram blocks. I'm seeing a lot that are billed as designed for Corsair Dominator modules. They seem to be the only ram brand called out by name like this. How strict is this? I've got Crucial Ballistix. Do I want to avoid those blocks or will they also work with my stuff? Hard to know without knowing more about the blocks.
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Feb 26, 2021 19:46
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Warmachine posted:Hard to know without knowing more about the blocks. Right. Thanks. Most of these sites don't do a good job explaining these set-ups. Luckily there are quite a few to choose from, so I picked a "universal" style. And yes, I'm fully aware that ram waterblocks are totally unnecessary, but i'm all-in on this project.
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Feb 26, 2021 19:52
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B-1.1.7 Bomber posted:Right. Thanks. Most of these sites don't do a good job explaining these set-ups. Luckily there are quite a few to choose from, so I picked a "universal" style. And yes, I'm fully aware that ram waterblocks are totally unnecessary, but i'm all-in on this project. I mean, how are the blocks designed? The two types of setup I've looked at are from alphacool and EK, and both are explicitly "replace the stock heat spreaders with ours, then clamp our block to them." Something like that shouldn't care what brand you have since you're stripping the fancy branded part off before you do anything else.
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Feb 26, 2021 20:22
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I agree with you; it's weird that a couple of manufacturers call out Corsair Dominator sticks by name, and only this brand. Maybe they have a different profile that require different spreaders? Like many other things involving computers, I don't have a loving clue, but will forge ahead.
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Feb 26, 2021 20:58
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B-1.1.7 Bomber posted:I agree with you; it's weird that a couple of manufacturers call out Corsair Dominator sticks by name, and only this brand. Maybe they have a different profile that require different spreaders? Like many other things involving computers, I don't have a loving clue, but will forge ahead. I don't think I've worked with bare PCB memory in years, but as I recall underneath the heat spreader it's all pretty samey. I know it looks like the Dominator sticks have convenient hex screws holding them together. Maybe the heat spreader is easier to remove? Can you link one of these block kits?
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Feb 26, 2021 22:41
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The dominator sticks seem to come with some sort of pre-installed heatsink that also fits some cooling blocks without using the block manufacturer's heatsinks. EK sells separate heatsinks sets that you have to buy in addition to their water block when using non-Dominator RAM, for example. Presumably the reason Dominator is specifically called out is because Corsair managed to get several block manufacturers on-board with making blocks that are default-compatible with their high end nonsense ram as a marketing angle. Also, and I assume you know this but: water cooling your RAM has no practical value whatsoever. It's purely a thing you do because it looks cool, you like suffering, and you hate money. Those are of course 90% of the reasons to make a custom loop to begin with so more power to you, but at least you also get some fringe performance and noise benefits for the cpu and gpu.
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Feb 27, 2021 03:48
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You can encounter temperature problems with DDR4 memory running at 4000MHz/1.45v+, especially if you have a water-cooled case filled with radiators and less passive airflow. It'll show up as reduce overclocking headroom and stability. You also see active cooling on higher density 32gb+ modules at 3200 like in servers. It's slightly less insane than it used to be with less demanding memory, but still lowest priority next to VRM cooling. If you want to use EK RAM blocks then you can buy their Monarch Modules which will fit standard DDR4 DIMMs and allow you to mount their Monarch X4 block. The Dominator memory they refer to are older sticks with removable fins that allow a flat top to mount the blocks, they're not really a thing anymore so you need to replace the coolers on other memory. An upside of the Monarch Modules is that the nickel ones look really nice and understated even if you don't mount the waterblock on.
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Feb 27, 2021 04:06
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Ah, thanks for the info. I think I've got an Alphacool block with their modules on the way. And don't tell me what I can't cool! *straps waterblock to forehead*
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Feb 27, 2021 05:16
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B-1.1.7 Bomber posted:Ah, thanks for the info. I think I've got an Alphacool block with their modules on the way. And don't tell me what I can't cool! *straps waterblock to forehead* Easy there Jay. Xerophyte posted:The dominator sticks seem to come with some sort of pre-installed heatsink that also fits some cooling blocks without using the block manufacturer's heatsinks. EK sells separate heatsinks sets that you have to buy in addition to their water block when using non-Dominator RAM, for example. The funny thing is that if I wasn't doing this build in an Ncase M1, I'd probably be doing an aesthetic loop at this point. I've really enjoyed putting this thing together, even with the various setbacks I've had along the way. Maybe if my company gets the big bonus payout this year I'll build a new machine that is wholly aesthetics oriented. I know for sure I'll have a spare 3080 FE water block laying around.
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Feb 27, 2021 06:20
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Warmachine posted:I don't think I've worked with bare PCB memory in years, but as I recall underneath the heat spreader it's all pretty samey. PCB size and layout can vary. There’s multiple standard formats A0, A1, A2, as well what you see with things like the Dominator sticks. With normal modules you see the placement of the chips depending on the layout. https://www.guru3d.com/index.php?ct=articles&action=file&id=60338 if this doesn’t work, then half way down the page of this article https://www.guru3d.com/articles-pages/dram-calculator-for-ryzen-1-7-1-%E2%80%93-what-is-new,1.html Edit: This article has a picture of a bare dominator PCB. https://thepcenthusiast.com/corsair-dominator-platinum-rgb-ddr4-memory-review/ There have been a number of revisions to the dominator PCB as well. Be careful with removing the heat sinks from your ram op goon. Decent chance of ripping an IC off. I’ve seen a couple techniques: use a heat gun or huck the stick into a bucket of LN2 which will break the glue bond. The Electronaut fucked around with this message at 21:47 on Feb 27, 2021 |
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Feb 27, 2021 21:34
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The Electronaut posted:Be careful with removing the heat sinks from your ram op goon. Decent chance of ripping an IC off. I’ve seen a couple techniques: use a heat gun or huck the stick into a bucket of LN2 which will break the glue bond. Ok, wow. Thank you for the warning; I didn't know that was a thing, but I'll be extra careful now.
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Feb 28, 2021 08:40
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Hello! What kind of trouble are you looking at trying to run a 320w 3080 and stock 10700k off a single 240 or 280mm rad (custom loop FC GPU and 'monoblock' cpu+vrm in an NR200) if all you do is game, and the most intensive CPU game you play currently is BFV, and will play soon is the new Hitman games or Cyberpunk?
Shrimp or Shrimps fucked around with this message at 06:33 on Mar 1, 2021 |
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Mar 1, 2021 06:31
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