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ilkhan
Oct 7, 2004

Life Before Death
Strength Before Weakness
Journey Before Destination


Temps will be higher, and fans will be noisier than you'd probably like but it'll do it. Water-cooling is the old standby, rad space, temps, noise- pick 2.

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Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012





ilkhan posted:

Temps will be higher, and fans will be noisier than you'd probably like but it'll do it. Water-cooling is the old standby, rad space, temps, noise- pick 2.

This. You can probably get away with somewhat quieter fans but your temps will be embarrassing.

Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012





This was a warning. An omen of things to come.



Yes, they tossed two sour patch gummies in the mailer with the block. Trip report once I decide exactly how hot I'm comfortable running GDDR6X memory and if, after some tweaking, any airflow-based thermal gains are worth the tradeoffs.

My initial impression is "Jesus Christ this was a mistake."

Sorbus
Apr 1, 2010


Got a aquacomputer quadro today as I plan to do some loop rebuild / maintenance. Got me thinking why not to buy a Mo-Ra to replace my 2 x 360 rads?

CyberPingu
Sep 15, 2013


So I'm going to embark on a custom loop setup using the Corsair 5000D


Any tips for a first time custom loop? Are the EK kits worth it at all as I'm a bit overwhelmed with all the bits needed

Specifically something like this

https://www.overclockers.co.uk/ek-water-blocks-ek-quantum-power-d-rgb-p360-high-performance-watercooling-kit-wc-9z1-ek.html


My only foray into water-cooling in the past has been with AIOs

CyberPingu fucked around with this message at 17:14 on Mar 5, 2021

AutismVaccine
Feb 26, 2017


SPECIAL NEEDS
SQUAD


CyberPingu posted:

So I'm going to embark on a custom loop setup using the Corsair 5000D


Any tips for a first time custom loop? Are the EK kits worth it at all as I'm a bit overwhelmed with all the bits needed

Specifically something like this

https://www.overclockers.co.uk/ek-water-blocks-ek-quantum-power-d-rgb-p360-high-performance-watercooling-kit-wc-9z1-ek.html


My only foray into water-cooling in the past has been with AIOs

Built a custom loop (no LED stuff, max performance, lowest noise possible) a month ago in a silentbase 802, can recommend the following stuff

CPU Cooler: Watercool HK IV (All Copper) (This or the TechN are just the best, made in germany too)
Radiators: Alphacool UT60 x2 (420+280) (very little flow resistance, low air resistance has 6 inlets plus another on the other side, super nice for bleeding and emptying, also nice for hiding temp sensor to have the cables out of sight)
Pump: D5 PWM integrated in the watertank from Watercool (HEATKILLER Tube, 150mm glas, all black) (cant hear it when i disconnect the PWM forcing the pump to run at full speed, i have it mount with two layers of rubber vibration dampeners)
Fans: Noctua Chromax NF-A14 PWM, expensive (6 fans 150Ä) but the best. No LED stuff though

Tubing: The 16/10 ZMT variant from Watercool with white fittings from Bykski --> Doesnt fit well, buy your fittings and Tubes from one vendor to be sure they match well. I also didnt use a single rotatable fitting cause i dont trust the o-rings in them

AutismVaccine fucked around with this message at 11:43 on Mar 6, 2021

Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012





CyberPingu posted:

So I'm going to embark on a custom loop setup using the Corsair 5000D


Any tips for a first time custom loop? Are the EK kits worth it at all as I'm a bit overwhelmed with all the bits needed

Specifically something like this

https://www.overclockers.co.uk/ek-water-blocks-ek-quantum-power-d-rgb-p360-high-performance-watercooling-kit-wc-9z1-ek.html


My only foray into water-cooling in the past has been with AIOs

No idea about the kits. The thing with custom loops is, being custom, there's some planning and testing involved to get things just right. Doubly so if you are working in a space constrained case like I am with my Ncase.

As for the overwhelmed part, try not to look at it as the whole project while planning. Break it down.

1) Hard or soft tubing? I used soft, EK's 16/10 ZMT
2) What are you cooling? For me, CPU and GPU, so I needed a block for each.
3) Will you have a reservoir? Yes, though this is really more a question SFF folks have to wrestle with.
4) What pump? DDC integrated into the res for me. There's no way for me to fit a D5 in my build.
5) How long and how many radiators? 2x240mm is the max my case could fit, and there were other considerations here like thickness you probably don't need to worry about.
6) How many fittings do I need? 2 for each discrete component in the loop. Since the pump and res are combined, that's 1 component. So 10--2 for the CPU block, 2 for the GPU block, 2 for the Pump/Res combo, 2 for the side radiator, 2 for the bottom radiator.

Now you look at the case spatially and ask yourself if you need any special fittings like 90 or 45 degrees, rotary, etc. I needed a lot of these because my build didn't have the room for wide bends of the hose, so I needed to keep my runs straight if possible.

So from that I have my shopping list:
1x CPU block
1x GPU block
10x soft tube compression fittings
1x Pump/reservoir combo unit
2x 240mm radiators
Tubing
Coolant (either premix or concentrate + distilled water)

The one thing not on here that's really useful to have is an ATX bridging plug for leak testing, since it lets you turn on the PSU and power the pump without connecting to the motherboard/powering the rest of the computer. I have a spare power supply I use for this.

If you want to do hard tubing... go ask another goon. I'm not a masochist.

CyberPingu
Sep 15, 2013


Thanks for that, that's a really useful guide

Since I'm not trying to put this in an SFF as I'm either going for the be quiet Dark Base 900/700 or the Corsair 5000D airflow, that leaves room for larger rads and a bit more creativity with tubes too.


Yeah I'm not doing solid tubing, gently caress that.

CyberPingu fucked around with this message at 17:56 on Mar 6, 2021

Indiana_Krom
Jun 18, 2007
Net Slacker

Warmachine posted:

If you want to do hard tubing... go ask another goon. I'm not a masochist.

Good advice all around, but especially this. Hard tubing is all about looks, a good hard tubing system looks amazing but doesn't actually work any better than soft tubing and costs more while also being significantly harder to work with. If you want a water cooler for the looks and you are willing to invest the time and money, then hard tubing is fine. But if you just want one big quiet cooler for your CPU and GPU that has stable fan RPMs, then a soft tubing loop with a coolant temperature sensor based fan controller is absolutely the way to go.

My advice with EK Quantum kits... generally fine, but I've soured a bit on their Vardar fans, had a 140MM one start squeaking after only a couple years of use at fairly low RPMs. Swapped them for Noctua Chromax fans and happy with the results.

CyberPingu
Sep 15, 2013


Yeah I've got a load of NF12As to kick onto any radiator I get tbh

CyberPingu
Sep 15, 2013


Ah well gonna have to pause this dream for now as I can't seem to source a 1080Ti ftw3 waterblock from anywhere


Guess I'll just wait until I can be bothered (and stock is a thing) upgrading.

B-1.1.7 Bomber
Feb 19, 2005

THE DARK SIDE OF SCIENCE BREEDS A WEAPON OF WAR


Buglord

Indiana_Krom posted:

Good advice all around, but especially this. Hard tubing is all about looks, a good hard tubing system looks amazing but doesn't actually work any better than soft tubing and costs more while also being significantly harder to work with. If you want a water cooler for the looks and you are willing to invest the time and money, then hard tubing is fine. But if you just want one big quiet cooler for your CPU and GPU that has stable fan RPMs, then a soft tubing loop with a coolant temperature sensor based fan controller is absolutely the way to go.

Because I'm new at this, I'm going with soft tubing, but am working to make it look rigid. So, lots of strut-work, supports, and I'll be trying out anti-kink springs to get a few of the bends as tight as possible. I'm using 10/13mm tubing.

Beginner tip: make sure you've decided on your tubing, then pick out your fittings. i bought all my fittings from the same manufacturer for visual purposes. Oh, and be careful about parts that have aluminum making contact with your coolant. There aren't many of them, but I've seen them here and there -- my understanding is that aluminum reacts poorly with other metals in your loop.

Endymion FRS MK1
Oct 28, 2011



And of course some people like me just prefer the looks of soft tubing over hard tubing. I like the organic-ish way it bends rather than having industrial lines

Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012





B-1.1.7 Bomber posted:

Because I'm new at this, I'm going with soft tubing, but am working to make it look rigid. So, lots of strut-work, supports, and I'll be trying out anti-kink springs to get a few of the bends as tight as possible. I'm using 10/13mm tubing.

Beginner tip: make sure you've decided on your tubing, then pick out your fittings. i bought all my fittings from the same manufacturer for visual purposes. Oh, and be careful about parts that have aluminum making contact with your coolant. There aren't many of them, but I've seen them here and there -- my understanding is that aluminum reacts poorly with other metals in your loop.

The aluminum thing is important. You'll sometimes find that in kit-based solutions, and I'm guessing there's poo poo in the bargain basement backrooms of Ali Express and Taobao that'll put aluminum against water. For chemistry reasons having aluminum and copper connected by water causes corrosion really fast.

Most quality parts are going to be nickle-plated copper or just bare copper.

Endymion FRS MK1 posted:

And of course some people like me just prefer the looks of soft tubing over hard tubing. I like the organic-ish way it bends rather than having industrial lines

I like the look of the matte black ZMT tubes. What I don't like is clear tubing or glossy black. I think both look tacky.

Warmachine fucked around with this message at 03:53 on Mar 9, 2021

Theophany
Jul 22, 2014

"This is only the beginning of the reckoning. This is only the first sip, the first foretaste of a bitter cup which will be proffered to us year by year unless, by a supreme recovery of moral health and martial vigour, we arise again and take our stand for freedom as in the olden time."


Warmachine posted:

I like the look of the matte black ZMT tubes. What I don't like is clear tubing or glossy black. I think both look tacky.

Thin walled clear tubing with a pastel coolant is quite nice imo. Soft tubing all the way.

Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012





Theophany posted:

Thin walled clear tubing with a pastel coolant is quite nice imo. Soft tubing all the way.

I just can't get over how much maintenance pastel coolant has to involve. I mean, maybe it's perfectly fine and I'm just paranoid, but I also don't want my hundreds of dollars of water blocks and radiators gunked up with dye.

Theophany
Jul 22, 2014

"This is only the beginning of the reckoning. This is only the first sip, the first foretaste of a bitter cup which will be proffered to us year by year unless, by a supreme recovery of moral health and martial vigour, we arise again and take our stand for freedom as in the olden time."


Warmachine posted:

I just can't get over how much maintenance pastel coolant has to involve. I mean, maybe it's perfectly fine and I'm just paranoid, but I also don't want my hundreds of dollars of water blocks and radiators gunked up with dye.

Fair point, it got a bad rap thanks to Mayhems gluing up everything with their pastel gunk. Having looked at some other manufacturers though, they seem to have managed to avoid the same effect.

Does mean your tubing is ruined though.

Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012





https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CrSGpzEMNec

This matches my experience working with the EK 3080FE block, except for the teardown and installation. It took me all of maybe 5 minutes to tear down the stock cooler, and maybe 5 more minutes to actually fit the block to the PCB. The hardest and most time consuming part was ABSOLUTELY the thermal pads. But EK going total overkill on those really pays dividends in the thermals department, especially for the memory junction temperatures. If GDDR6X likes to run hot, this EK block tames it very well.

It is a beefy motherfucker though. The sheer mass of copper they used does not gently caress around, and if you worried about the weight of the stock 3080 FE, brother I have bad news for you.

B-1.1.7 Bomber
Feb 19, 2005

THE DARK SIDE OF SCIENCE BREEDS A WEAPON OF WAR


Buglord

I always wondered what the deal was with people complaining about their video cards sagging until I bought a GPU block and um yeah

Internet Explorer
Jun 1, 2005


Oven Wrangler

I know some of you have some dope rear end water cooling setups going. The Traveling CCircus Show is in town, stop by and share what you've got!

https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3946255

movax
Aug 30, 2008



Quick question on Aquaero products... if my needs (I think these are my needs) are basically: control radiator fans (5x Noctua), monitor coolant temp, hook up to flow sensor, maybe hook up pump (just so I can set and forget a speed, I don't want to control pump speed around delta T, I think...), I could probably just get away with the QUADRO and not pay $$ for their big boy computer, right? Fans I can run off a splitter, (2x on a 240 rad, 3x on 360 rad), so I don't think that's a problem. Ideally I'll keep it hooked up to configure and tweak, and then let it run more-or-less standalone.

In terms of loop control... I'm used to much larger coolant loops / vehicle coolant systems where we're moving RPM around and watching for differential pressure / coolant delta Ts, and my last WC adventure was 15 years ago. In the end my process variable is CPU / GPU temps, but realistically, I think the only thing I want to actuate is fan RPM in response to coolant temperature, and keep flow rate / pump speed constant. People don't typically see or measure a delta T across blocks, do they?

Also -- I want to get the HEATKILLER IV block for my 1080 FTW... brand new its like $130, for a 5 year old GPU... I do plan on upgrading GPUs at some point but obviously that's difficult right now. Should I troll any specific forums for people selling used WC parts?

Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012





movax posted:

Quick question on Aquaero products... if my needs (I think these are my needs) are basically: control radiator fans (5x Noctua), monitor coolant temp, hook up to flow sensor, maybe hook up pump (just so I can set and forget a speed, I don't want to control pump speed around delta T, I think...), I could probably just get away with the QUADRO and not pay $$ for their big boy computer, right? Fans I can run off a splitter, (2x on a 240 rad, 3x on 360 rad), so I don't think that's a problem. Ideally I'll keep it hooked up to configure and tweak, and then let it run more-or-less standalone.

In terms of loop control... I'm used to much larger coolant loops / vehicle coolant systems where we're moving RPM around and watching for differential pressure / coolant delta Ts, and my last WC adventure was 15 years ago. In the end my process variable is CPU / GPU temps, but realistically, I think the only thing I want to actuate is fan RPM in response to coolant temperature, and keep flow rate / pump speed constant. People don't typically see or measure a delta T across blocks, do they?

Also -- I want to get the HEATKILLER IV block for my 1080 FTW... brand new its like $130, for a 5 year old GPU... I do plan on upgrading GPUs at some point but obviously that's difficult right now. Should I troll any specific forums for people selling used WC parts?

Quadro is probably fine. I ended up getting an Octo just because I could get it now, but it sounds like you have 3 discreet things you want to control: 240mm radiator, 360mm radiator, and pump. As long as you're not drawing more than 2A per chain, you should be fine (going by Octo spec, which should be no different on a per-header basis). You won't be able to control each fan separately, but you probably want to control them as those three groups anyway.

I've had mixed results playing with pump speed in terms of how RPM actually affects my loop in high-load scenarios. Conventional wisdom says no, keep pump speed constant at whatever RPM is tolerable by your ears, and vary your fan speed. Your loop is small enough and flow rate high enough at any sane RPM that dT at any point in the loop is small enough to not be a factor.

Unless you need to put the GPU on water for space reasons, wait until you can get the GPU you plan to upgrade for. No use throwing good money on a block for your existing card if you're planning to upgrade soon (TM).

B-1.1.7 Bomber
Feb 19, 2005

THE DARK SIDE OF SCIENCE BREEDS A WEAPON OF WAR


Buglord

movax posted:

Also -- I want to get the HEATKILLER IV block for my 1080 FTW... brand new its like $130, for a 5 year old GPU... I do plan on upgrading GPUs at some point but obviously that's difficult right now. Should I troll any specific forums for people selling used WC parts?

I bought the copper version of this block for my 980ti a month ago (new at that same price), which led me to my previous comment upthread. It's...a copper block...so it's heavy. I like how it looks though -- good choice!

movax
Aug 30, 2008



Warmachine posted:

Quadro is probably fine. I ended up getting an Octo just because I could get it now, but it sounds like you have 3 discreet things you want to control: 240mm radiator, 360mm radiator, and pump. As long as you're not drawing more than 2A per chain, you should be fine (going by Octo spec, which should be no different on a per-header basis). You won't be able to control each fan separately, but you probably want to control them as those three groups anyway.

I've had mixed results playing with pump speed in terms of how RPM actually affects my loop in high-load scenarios. Conventional wisdom says no, keep pump speed constant at whatever RPM is tolerable by your ears, and vary your fan speed. Your loop is small enough and flow rate high enough at any sane RPM that dT at any point in the loop is small enough to not be a factor.

Unless you need to put the GPU on water for space reasons, wait until you can get the GPU you plan to upgrade for. No use throwing good money on a block for your existing card if you're planning to upgrade soon (TM).

Sounds sane to me! I will just plan in the GPU from the start but maybe not grab the waterblock, so I can at least not have to do a ton when I add it.

movax
Aug 30, 2008



Now the text thing is to think which pump. I really like this guy's build (https://pcpartpicker.com/b/JrRJ7P) and I think his initial version had a DDC hanging out on the rear 120 mm location. I'm wondering if I can cram a D5 down in the bottom of the Meshify C, maybe deleting the bottom-most fan on the 360 mm front rad if I have too.

What are the favorites for D5 makers? EK has plenty of course, I don't care about RGB at all, just want a quiet, reliable, PWM-able D5 pump, potentially with a res. I've read that T-lines are out of favor these days, so a tiny res / expansion tank I can cram in somewhere would be legit. Add a bleeder valve at the top and drain valve at the bottom?

Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012





movax posted:

Now the text thing is to think which pump. I really like this guy's build (https://pcpartpicker.com/b/JrRJ7P) and I think his initial version had a DDC hanging out on the rear 120 mm location. I'm wondering if I can cram a D5 down in the bottom of the Meshify C, maybe deleting the bottom-most fan on the 360 mm front rad if I have too.

What are the favorites for D5 makers? EK has plenty of course, I don't care about RGB at all, just want a quiet, reliable, PWM-able D5 pump, potentially with a res. I've read that T-lines are out of favor these days, so a tiny res / expansion tank I can cram in somewhere would be legit. Add a bleeder valve at the top and drain valve at the bottom?

If you can, get a res. If you can't fit the res in your case, get a pair of quick disconnect fittings. Then you can hook up a res for filling the loop and close the loop when you're done.

But I'd just get an excuse res if you can.

movax
Aug 30, 2008



Warmachine posted:

If you can, get a res. If you can't fit the res in your case, get a pair of quick disconnect fittings. Then you can hook up a res for filling the loop and close the loop when you're done.

But I'd just get an excuse res if you can.

Ooh -- I didn't think about that, that's a great idea. Not like I have room for a T-Line either, but that would at least solve the problem of de-aerating. I will definitely add a drain valve, but for this temporary rad idea, would I want those QD fittings up near the top of the loop? If I somehow managed to get a D5+rad combo that fit, it would live at the bottom of the loop, which sounds suboptimal.

Canna Happy
Jul 11, 2004
The engine, code A855, has a cast iron closed deck block and split crankcase. It uses an 8.1:1 compression ratio with Mahle cast eutectic aluminum alloy pistons, forged connecting rods with cracked caps and threaded-in 9 mm rod bolts, and a cast high

I had a d5 + res mounted horizontally in my meshify c. I just drilled two holes and used the ekwb mount. I think with ekwbs smallest tube it could be mounted vertical. I took my loop apart, but I still have everything including the smallest res tube if you want measurements of anything.

forbidden dialectics
Jul 26, 2005







Just a heads up. The Quadro can't do "virtual" sensors like the Aquaero can, i.e., you can't make a water/air delta temperature and control your fans off of that. You can only control it off of absolute temperatures. That may or may not be a dealbreaker for you

movax
Aug 30, 2008



Canna Happy posted:

I had a d5 + res mounted horizontally in my meshify c. I just drilled two holes and used the ekwb mount. I think with ekwbs smallest tube it could be mounted vertical. I took my loop apart, but I still have everything including the smallest res tube if you want measurements of anything.

Where specifically in the case did you have it?


forbidden dialectics posted:

Just a heads up. The Quadro can't do "virtual" sensors like the Aquaero can, i.e., you can't make a water/air delta temperature and control your fans off of that. You can only control it off of absolute temperatures. That may or may not be a dealbreaker for you

Ah, bummer... I don't think I need that. Is that more useful in areas where ambient air temp moves a lot?

spckr
Aug 3, 2014

here we go


forbidden dialectics posted:

Just a heads up. The Quadro can't do "virtual" sensors like the Aquaero can, i.e., you can't make a water/air delta temperature and control your fans off of that. You can only control it off of absolute temperatures. That may or may not be a dealbreaker for you

My octo can definitely do virtual sensors. Not sure why the Quadro would be different. Itís the same software

Endymion FRS MK1
Oct 28, 2011



movax posted:

Where specifically in the case did you have it?


Ah, bummer... I don't think I need that. Is that more useful in areas where ambient air temp moves a lot?

Not them but I did a custom loop in a Meshify C. Didn't have to drill anything, I was able to mount the pump/res to the top fan mounts



Kerosene19
May 7, 2007




Added a little RGB to the rig today. 5vRGB upgrade kits added to the GPU and CPU blocks.
Had a few hair-raising moments on the first refill. The pigtail for the LEDís on the CPU block was pushing the coldplate off the o-ring via the trim ring so it started dripping immediately. Milled down the trim ring for clearance. A stray drop got between the M2 sticker and chip and dies. Not reading boot driveÖ A little compressed air and qtips with 99 iso and it was all like it never happened. Phone camera makes it look teal but set low itís got a nice dark green glow going on.




spckr posted:

My octo can definitely do virtual sensors. Not sure why the Quadro would be different. Itís the same software

Can confirm that Quadro can do virtual sensors. I'm running two currently.
One for DeltaT and one to average all 4 rad fans.

movax
Aug 30, 2008



Endymion FRS MK1 posted:

Not them but I did a custom loop in a Meshify C. Didn't have to drill anything, I was able to mount the pump/res to the top fan mounts





I'm trying to remember what website I saw it on, but they showed a pic of mounting the pump/res to a rad on a piece of metal that piggy backs on the fan threaded holes on the rad. Bit of "expense" on flow restriction, and converting the top fans to pull instead of push, but that might be a clean way for me to do it + keep the pump/res at (virtually) the highest point in my loop.

Anyone use anything like this before?

forbidden dialectics
Jul 26, 2005







spckr posted:

My octo can definitely do virtual sensors. Not sure why the Quadro would be different. Itís the same software

Product segmentation, I'm guessing. It's probably the exact same hardware, too, they just artificially disable that feature on the cheaper device. The Octo definitely looks to be the best value overall, though.

Kerosene19 posted:

Can confirm that Quadro can do virtual sensors. I'm running two currently.
One for DeltaT and one to average all 4 rad fans.

Oh...hmm. This must be new, then, because when I bought mine a couple years ago it definitely couldn't. Time to do some tweaking!

Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012





forbidden dialectics posted:

Product segmentation, I'm guessing. It's probably the exact same hardware, too, they just artificially disable that feature on the cheaper device. The Octo definitely looks to be the best value overall, though.


Oh...hmm. This must be new, then, because when I bought mine a couple years ago it definitely couldn't. Time to do some tweaking!

Yep, echoing what everyone else is saying: My Octo does virtual sensors just fine.

Which, by the way, I got my custom cables yesterday and put my Ncase build back together with the Bykski block to test the thermals. I'm going to analyze the logs in the morning and try to do the EK test as well. I also installed my Octo as this post implies, and it's everything I wanted. Because it uses a vertical molex connector for power, it doesn't fit in the front of my case in the 2.5in drive space, but I taped it to the front panel in a good spot and honestly I think I'm gonna keep it mounted like this. I really appreciate that they included a thermistor to use as an ambient sensor. I have mine set up in front of the primary radiator to measure the intake air temperature. I figure that's the best place because there's going to be a non-negligible amount of recirculation from the secondary radiator in the bottom of the case warming the air around the case in general.

Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012





Alright, I've put together and taken apart this loop about 4 times now, and I keep running into the same annoyance: It's really hard to fit the locking ring over the compression fittings, get it to catch the thread, and then get it tight enough on the fitting.

Most of this seems to come down to the rubber of the EK ZMT just grabbing at the ring. Is there a good way to make these easier to turn? I've tried soaking the ends of the tubing in water but that doesn't seem to help much.

The Electronaut
May 10, 2009


Warmachine posted:

Alright, I've put together and taken apart this loop about 4 times now, and I keep running into the same annoyance: It's really hard to fit the locking ring over the compression fittings, get it to catch the thread, and then get it tight enough on the fitting.

Most of this seems to come down to the rubber of the EK ZMT just grabbing at the ring. Is there a good way to make these easier to turn? I've tried soaking the ends of the tubing in water but that doesn't seem to help much.

I found dish soap helped a ton with ZMT and the fittings which are also compression I used in my loop.

jink
May 8, 2002

Drop it like it's Hot.

Taco Defender

Warmachine posted:

Alright, I've put together and taken apart this loop about 4 times now, and I keep running into the same annoyance: It's really hard to fit the locking ring over the compression fittings, get it to catch the thread, and then get it tight enough on the fitting.

Most of this seems to come down to the rubber of the EK ZMT just grabbing at the ring. Is there a good way to make these easier to turn? I've tried soaking the ends of the tubing in water but that doesn't seem to help much.

Heat up a mug of water, stick tube in that water for a couple minutes... should help to get the threads to catch.

I use Bitspower fittings and after changing tubes on my build I am unable to feel things with my fingers for a few days. Brutal.

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Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012





jink posted:

Heat up a mug of water, stick tube in that water for a couple minutes... should help to get the threads to catch.

I use Bitspower fittings and after changing tubes on my build I am unable to feel things with my fingers for a few days. Brutal.

My fingers got shredded on Alphacool fittings Saturday, but at least I can grip them unlike the EK fittings. I'm putting the EK block in for the next round of my tests. Why I'm doing this on a work night is a question for smarter men than myself.

edit: Oh yeah. The dish soap thing is it. Swab some on with a q-tip and those fuckers twist right on. drat.

Warmachine fucked around with this message at 04:19 on Mar 23, 2021

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