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I've got a Corsair XR5 360 and an EK Classic 360. Honestly, as far as radiators go I couldn't say if one performs better than the other  I can say that the Corsair didn't have any debris when I flushed it for first use, but the EK one had plenty. I think the Corsair one looks nicer, too
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Jun 9, 2021 19:39
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MonkeyFit posted:So who has the best radiators? It looks like I can get away with a 45mm thick rad on the front and maybe a 30mm up top in a define R6. Hardware labs gts are the best 30mm rads. Corsair also rebrands and sells them.
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Jun 9, 2021 19:45
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Canna Happy posted:Hardware labs gts are the best 30mm rads. Corsair also rebrands and sells them. So the Corsair rads are just rebranded hardware labs radiators? Because I cannot find the 280 GTS rads for sale except used.
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Jun 9, 2021 21:44
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MonkeyFit posted:So the Corsair rads are just rebranded hardware labs radiators? Because I cannot find the 280 GTS rads for sale except used.
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Jun 10, 2021 00:09
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ilkhan posted:They are slightly different, but the fins/tubes important bits are the same. Corsair rads are slightly narrower overall. Corsair's radiators are usually made by either CoolIt, or Asetek
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Jun 10, 2021 00:28
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Broken Machine posted:Corsair's radiators are usually made by either CoolIt, or Asetek We're talking custom loop, not closed loop.
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Jun 10, 2021 00:54
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MonkeyFit posted:So the Corsair rads are just rebranded hardware labs radiators? Because I cannot find the 280 GTS rads for sale except used. Yeah ilkhan is correct, the XR5 Corsair is just a gts that was tweaked slightly for corsair. That's what I would buy if I couldn't find the hwlabs.
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Jun 10, 2021 03:00
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The Corsair rads aren't uniquely customised, they're just the L series OEM variants of the HWLABS stealth rads. They're cut down to fit in the exact width of the fans for maximum case compatibility for OEMs. You can get them straight from performance-pcs if you want to cut out the Corsair tax.
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Jun 10, 2021 03:52
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Is the Noctua NF-A14 fan the king of silent performance when paired with a 280mm radiator? Or are there better fans out there? Additionally, I'm beginning to feel like there are better cases out there for watercooling, and that the Define R6 might be just a bit cramped. Should I bother getting a better case if my goal is max performance as quiet as possible? Specs:
I've ordered front and back waterblocks for the GPU and plan on getting a monoblock for the motherboard/CPU. Should I stick with my current case and try to find 2x 280mm rads or get something that can accommodate a 420mm rad?
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Jun 14, 2021 02:20
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MonkeyFit posted:Is the Noctua NF-A14 fan the king of silent performance when paired with a 280mm radiator? Or are there better fans out there? The Noctua A14 is great, but keep in mind that it is completely different from the A12x25, so don't use use reviews from that as a comparison. Arctic's P14 is also fantastic for a silent fan and they are way cheaper and come in black. 2x280 would definitely be enough to cool that system, but it probably won't be completely quiet. You should definitely try it out first before getting another case. You could also try fitting thicker radiators to increase cooling capacity.
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Jun 14, 2021 10:56
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I'm using Arctic P12 (9 total) in my setup and they are super silent on low RPM. I run them at around 45% power. Bought 10 fans (two 5-packs) for like 60 USD. Would recommend!
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Jun 14, 2021 15:14
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e: wrong thread.
paberu fucked around with this message at 17:03 on Jun 15, 2021 |
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Jun 14, 2021 17:34
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spckr posted:2x280 would definitely be enough to cool that system, but it probably won't be completely quiet. You should definitely try it out first before getting another case. You could also try fitting thicker radiators to increase cooling capacity. I bought my case a few months ago not intending to watercool, as I never thought I'd get my hands on a 3090. I feel like 2x 280 is the only way to make sure I have sufficient cooling in it. I'm entertaining the idea of a new case because I have a friend that might take my current case if I upgrade, and getting a case that was specifically designed with watercooling in mind would greatly expand my options. I have a single Corsair XR5 280mm on the way to do some fit testing. But if I could get quieter with a different setup and roughly the same cooling capabilities, I'd definitely be open to it. I'd even be open to thicker rads in a push/pull configuration. But doing so would definitely require a new case.
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Jun 14, 2021 21:19
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This is pretty wild if it works like the video shows: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8UiRv0nDch0
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Jun 15, 2021 00:45
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sarr posted:This is pretty wild if it works like the video shows: Filling a system actually becomes cool instead of a pita
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Jun 15, 2021 04:47
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sarr posted:This is pretty wild if it works like the video shows: Pretty cool. If I'm understanding it correctly it basically creates a vacuum within the loop? I would imagine that means soft tubing is out.
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Jun 15, 2021 08:45
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sarr posted:This is pretty wild if it works like the video shows: That's incredible. It also lets you draw fluid directly into the loop to make filling easier. I'm probably going to buy one, wow.
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Jun 15, 2021 08:55
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Theophany posted:Pretty cool. If I'm understanding it correctly it basically creates a vacuum within the loop? I would imagine that means soft tubing is out.
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Jun 15, 2021 11:41
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At 1:29 that actually looks like soft tubing? Or do my eyes deceive me?
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Jun 15, 2021 12:23
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They encourage hard tubes, but soft tubes probably aren’t banned, especially since this is partly marketed as a retrofit solution.
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Jun 15, 2021 12:33
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I ran a Google translate on their FAQs for it, apparently you can use soft tubing provided that the OD of the tubing is at least 1.5x the ID. So 16/10 would theoretically be fine but 13/10 would not. I imagine quality of the tubing, possible degradation over time and coolant temperature would have an impact too.
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Jun 15, 2021 12:53
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Probably depends on the length of the tubing too, and how much vacuum you're running. In the video it looks like there's a setting for how much pressure differential it should strive for.
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Jun 15, 2021 13:02
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Well great, now I want to build a new non-SFF machine to play with that new toy.
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Jun 15, 2021 13:14
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I'm going back to an open loop and I want some help picking a case. I'm trying to decide between a corsair 5000d airflow with 2x360mm or an o11 mini with a 360 and a 280. I have everything I need minus a gpu block and a 360 rad if I go with the corsair case. I'll be cooling a 10850k and a 3080. I feel like everyone has an o11 and a open loop, so I'm kind of leaning corsair. Any other suggestions or thoughts?
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Jun 20, 2021 03:05
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Theophany posted:I think I have sated my brainworms for the time being with the last replumbing. God bless soft tubing, hardline looks great and all but it's a loving misery to work with. Where can I find a tutorial on adding the little system monitor display you got? I hope I can add one without taking up a GPU video output. (Maybe I'd put a gt 1030 in a lower slot? IDK.) Edit: Found a random tutorial on doing it with raspberry pi over local wifi. Spacedad fucked around with this message at 08:53 on Jun 20, 2021 |
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Jun 20, 2021 08:48
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Spacedad posted:Where can I find a tutorial on adding the little system monitor display you got? I hope I can add one without taking up a GPU video output. (Maybe I'd put a gt 1030 in a lower slot? IDK.) I followed this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RTdniu3gn3Y USB header power and HDMI is less clean than a rpi over wifi, but I'm lazy as hell 
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Jun 20, 2021 10:12
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It's not weird / technically a bad thing to mix hardline and soft tubing, right? As times goes on and I realize how little time I have to spend on this project... for some of these really weird paths, I feel like soft-tubing would let me get the job done faster. Unless I have 3D models of each of these components + my case, I feel like I'm going to end up with a pile of pricey adapters (potentially) and things mis-aligned by a few mm. movax fucked around with this message at 04:59 on Jul 12, 2021 |
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Jul 12, 2021 04:54
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movax posted:It's not weird / technically a bad thing to mix hardline and soft tubing, right? As times goes on and I realize how little time I have to spend on this project... for some of these really weird paths, I feel like soft-tubing would let me get the job done faster. It's not really standard. Are you worried about having tons of exotic bends or something? Because most of that is a measuring problem. When in doubt, cut conservatively: you can always cut more, but you can't put more on. Bends are harder, but it still basically comes down to measuring lengths. Just remember, you can start with the minimum number of adapters (the in/out fittings for each component), and spend as much time as you want measuring, bending, measuring more, bending more, and so on until you get the perfect plumbing. If you figure a certain bend or series of bends is too much work, add the appropriate adapter to your list. Unless you need to have this thing done by a due date, it's best to just take your time. (You could also just go for a hyperindustrial aesthetic with black rubber soft tube. In mid tower or larger cases, you should have no issue just going pig wild with rubber hoses.)
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Jul 12, 2021 05:49
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movax posted:It's not weird / technically a bad thing to mix hardline and soft tubing, right? As times goes on and I realize how little time I have to spend on this project... for some of these really weird paths, I feel like soft-tubing would let me get the job done faster. There is nothing wrong with it. A popular way of doing hardline a while ago was to use soft tubing in the back for easy maintenance and routing. No need to go to the extra effort for what's out of sight. I recommend it if you're part of the "stuff the rear panel on and forget about it" cable gang
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Jul 12, 2021 10:05
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Did a vertical mount setup for my gpu and redid my pipework. Think I'm finally happy with how it turned out
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Jul 12, 2021 12:47
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Cloner of the Elks posted:Did a vertical mount setup for my gpu and redid my pipework. Think I'm finally happy with how it turned out Looks great except for the Razer logo. Other than that I'd be happy to have this build myself (speaking as a No RGB No Tempered Glass Fun Hater)
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Jul 12, 2021 15:54
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this looks rad
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Jul 13, 2021 08:15
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Does anyone have a front glass panel for an O11 Dynamic XL that they're willing to part with? I'm wanting to mod mine, but I also want to keep a spare stock front panel around.
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Jul 29, 2021 06:06
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Can you run two different pumps in the same loop without damaging one? Searching the interweb is giving me some mixed responses, from no you will cause cavitation in your pump and 'pressure spikes' to yes, impellers offer very little resistance and the weaker pump will only accelerate the flow less. Basically I'm looking at throwing in a Barrow DDC CPU block combo into a loop that only has the Alphacool DC-LT pump which is significantly less powerful. E: Adding CPU into the Alphacool GPU-only AIO loop, and also looking for pump redundancy hence a pump-cpu block rather than just block. If it'll be an issue, I'll just opt for the Alphacool pump-cpu block that has the same pump. Shrimp or Shrimps fucked around with this message at 04:27 on Aug 16, 2021 |
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Aug 16, 2021 03:48
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Moved my pump/res unit outside the case. The EK pump angled bracket normally doesn't allow you to run the connectors through the back of it, the hole is a mm or two too small, but that was easily fixed with a dremel and grind bit. Then I cut out a matching hole in the rear fan grille on my Nano S and presto:   With a long graphics card there was no room for a standing reservoir so I originally had it mounted sideways behind the front fans, but that made it really hard to fill and bleed the system. The bracket and its screw gets in the way of the side panel though, so I'll need to make a small cut there later to clear the screw head. 
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Sep 7, 2021 13:04
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sarr posted:This is pretty wild if it works like the video shows: Could you not achieve something similar by essentially running your loop in reverse? Run the loop from the reservoir to the inlet side of the pump and have the pump outlet go back into the reservoir. The only place you'd have positive pressure would be between the pump and the reservoir, and it would be very little pressure since there's no restriction. If it's possible to run a pump in reverse, a pump-reservoir combo unit would let you eliminate that as well.
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Oct 1, 2021 21:18
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Shrimp or Shrimps posted:Can you run two different pumps in the same loop without damaging one? Searching the interweb is giving me some mixed responses, from no you will cause cavitation in your pump and 'pressure spikes' to yes, impellers offer very little resistance and the weaker pump will only accelerate the flow less. You're not going to get cavitation, it just may cost you a little performance on paper that you probably won't even notice. This isn't directed at you, but a lot of people really have a poor understanding of cavitation and the conditions that initiate it, and like to blame any noise/damage/etc. on "cavitation".
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Oct 1, 2021 21:26
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SourKraut posted:You're not going to get cavitation, it just may cost you a little performance on paper that you probably won't even notice. Thanks! Glad to hear mixing pumps isn't going to be a huge issue then.
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Oct 2, 2021 00:30
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Shrimp or Shrimps posted:Thanks! Glad to hear mixing pumps isn't going to be a huge issue then. No problem! Typically pumps in series are used to boost pressure, whether immediately adjacent or separated some, although obviously the further apart the two pumps are, the more friction loss encountered (though for tubing, that should be minimal to begin with). When you have two pumps in series, you typically will end up with flow equivalent to the "lesser" pump, but still with a pressure boost, which for water cooling purposes, is probably more critical anyway since it helps to further overcome losses through radiators, tubing, fittings, etc., which then has corresponding cooling benefits. When the pumps are different sizes, assuming the larger is also capable of a higher pressure output, the larger can effectively "push" the impeller of the smaller a little harder, which results in a bit more flow but with a resulting pressure loss. TL;dr: When you have two equal model pumps, you get higher pressure, equal flow, with a slight drop in energy efficiency. When you have two dissimilar pumps, you get flow equal to the lower rate pump + a little, with a pressure equal to the two of them together minus a little due to inefficiencies.
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Oct 2, 2021 03:59
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fatman1683 posted:Could you not achieve something similar by essentially running your loop in reverse? Run the loop from the reservoir to the inlet side of the pump and have the pump outlet go back into the reservoir. The only place you'd have positive pressure would be between the pump and the reservoir, and it would be very little pressure since there's no restriction. If it's possible to run a pump in reverse, a pump-reservoir combo unit would let you eliminate that as well. I guess I'm not entirely sure what you mean by "run a pump in reverse," but depending on your definition there, the answer is either "no" or "that's basically what the video is about." If your idea is use a normal pump and simple re-order components or tubing, then no, it absolutely would not solve anything because the loop still functions by action of the positive pressure generated by the pump. That is, the pump is still pushing water out, regardless of which direction it's being routed, and the return-flow water comes back to the pump by that same positive pressure (albeit reduced by any intervening resistance). A hole anywhere along the way will bleed fluid because there is always positive pressure in every component of the system, even if the PSI at a given point may be slight. If your idea is that the pump pulls in water via suction in a negative-pressure manner, then that is indeed exactly the concept demonstrated in the video: by using negative pressure to suck the water into the pump and letting it just fall out the other side, you're able to tolerate holes to some extent because the vast majority of your loop is now under negative pressure. There are limits to that, of course, and that neat feature stops the moment you turn the system off, so it's not like it really offers meaningful long-term protection against such damage. It does, however, mean that you don't leak fluid out of components or joints that are fine at holding still water but then have trace leaks under the positive pressure generated by a normal pump. And I guess it presents cool YT video opportunities for people to poke poo poo in tubes and blocks.
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Oct 2, 2021 23:16
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