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It gets extra confusing because what the Americans get when they buy "Distilled Water" at the local Safeway is usually not actually distilled, it's just you can legally call it that if it's purified past some threshold via reverse osmosis or whatever. In reality: water is a really good solvent and any water you put in your loop will be slightly impure soon enough, well beyond whatever the difference is between actual distillation and de-ionized. Anyhow, in the EU buy "battery water" or "battery top-up water". It's the same thing, and specifically intended to be used when corrosion is an issue. Can find it in most petrol stations or other car-type places.
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Nov 11, 2020 17:45
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Distilled water doesn't prevent corrosion, it prevents calcium and other minerals from gunking up your loop over time. Deionized, demineralized and whatever else should all work exactly the same for that. To prevent corrosion you also need some anti-corrosive additive. That should already be in the premixed stuff. Just use tap water for flushing your loop. Using destilled water makes zero difference there.
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Nov 11, 2020 18:10
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Cloner of the Elks posted:So I thought gently caress it and picked up a litre of Mayhems for £2.50. I mean, it's only for a pre-flush, I have premixed stuff for the actual coolant when it comes to filling i've flushed my loop with plain tap water before, it's fine lol e;fb on next page 
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Nov 11, 2020 18:17
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Well, this is all great news! Going by this conversation I think tap water will be the way to go if (more like when lol) I get that second radiator! I'm assuming 1 ltr of the Mayhems premix coolant fluid will be more than enough for the 330ml reservoir, 360mm rad, cpu & gpu blocks and tubing, right? Wouldn't want to get to the point where the system is ready and not have enough 
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Nov 11, 2020 18:30
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Warmachine posted:
So maybe this isn't total garbage? It sounds like they built a pretty good controller for it to keep it sane. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uOrUNT_0XVY
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Nov 13, 2020 00:06
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MeruFM posted:Yeah they're chinese, and basically half the price of name brand stuff. These are on sale at the moment and I can't say I'm not tempted...
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Nov 13, 2020 12:19
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Oh, and one more question though I suppose not specifically water cooling related. Delidding. Is it worth delidding and using liquid metal when water cooling? Will it make much of a difference at all or is it more for air cooled stuff? I'm running a Kaby Lake i5 7600k and I'm toying with the idea but not sure if it's really worth it. I'd like to get the most out of my processor but it's not like it's struggling at standard clocked settings (I did plan to OC after the water cool build but have no specific numbers in mind)
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Nov 13, 2020 12:22
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Cloner of the Elks posted:Oh, and one more question though I suppose not specifically water cooling related. I think this is an individual decision based on risk/reward, as well as a question of what processor you have. I doubt it is worth it on a 7600k, since it was really the 8xxx series that had the egregiously bad thermal properties without a delid. If you don't get the thermals you want after water cooling, don't mind risking bricking the processor, and believe your thermal bottleneck is between the die and the IHS, yeah go nuts. I'm pretty sure a delid mod is a guaranteed thermal efficiency boost assuming you don't gently caress up. Hell, maybe even try direct die cooling? I neglected the "I just wanna try it lol" reason but I assume if you're asking you're not just doing it for the hobby factor. Whatever you do, I'd make sure you had a backup plan in case things go pear shaped. I know I'm planning the galaxy-brain use LM on a GPU die for my water cooled 3080, but you best believe I'm practicing on an old card first.
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Nov 13, 2020 14:59
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Crossposting from reddit, I'm trying (and failing) to install an EK-Velocity waterblock to my Gigabyte Aorus z390 Master. The solder bits are sticking up too high?? Any recommendations?
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Nov 15, 2020 16:50
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Ak Gara posted:Crossposting from reddit, I'm trying (and failing) to install an EK-Velocity waterblock to my Gigabyte Aorus z390 Master. The solder bits are sticking up too high?? Any recommendations? Where is it hitting? I have the EK-Supremacy block mounted to the same motherboard with no issues and the same solder bump height. At least according to the installation manual online the Velocity has the same back plate/retention mechanism. Did you remove the center knockout from the rubber gasket and put it on first and orient the metal plate correctly?
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Nov 15, 2020 17:25
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It's hitting the 4 on the bottom and the 12 on the top [edit] This backplate (with the center rubber removed) 
Ak Gara fucked around with this message at 18:03 on Nov 15, 2020 |
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Nov 15, 2020 17:56
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take pic with that thing overlayed on the back
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Nov 15, 2020 18:30
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Different board, but it should look like this when you're done:
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Nov 15, 2020 19:08
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The solder bits stops the rubber part from sitting flat    
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Nov 15, 2020 21:39
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Same board, same back plate. On closer inspection of mine, looks like the gasket is upside down:   But that is fine, doesn't make any difference. Its just there to keep the metal off the board. I'd say just squish it right on, the rubber will take it and this board is built like a tank.
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Nov 15, 2020 23:17
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That loving rubber better be good because I HATE the way that works.
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Nov 15, 2020 23:23
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Thanks, I'll try that. 
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Nov 16, 2020 07:10
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Just don't torque it down hard, it only needs to be just snug enough to distribute the mounting load. It should only really make contact with the built in socket back plate.
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Nov 16, 2020 15:17
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Is there a 240mm AIO that would realistically cool a 5800X better than an NH-U14S in terms of temps vs noise? The EK AIO 240 and Arctic Liquid Freezer II 240 are well reviewed, but it's hard to find data comparing them to the better air coolers.
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Nov 16, 2020 22:21
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sean10mm posted:Is there a 240mm AIO that would realistically cool a 5800X better than an NH-U14S in terms of temps vs noise?
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Nov 16, 2020 22:42
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Looks like I've found some Actual Data! So at least according to GamersNexus, the EX 240 AIO was 4.5 degrees cooler under load than the NH-D15 at equal noise. Which is...something at least. 
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Nov 16, 2020 22:52
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sean10mm posted:Is there a 240mm AIO that would realistically cool a 5800X better than an NH-U14S in terms of temps vs noise? Yes and no. If you've got a large, well ventilated case, then a NH-U14S is going to perform pretty well and be hard to meaningfully top. If you've got a smaller case, poor ventilation or some other oddity going on (like a SFF), then chances are very good that the AIO is going to be considerably better in both temps and noise. The problem with talking about noise is that it's not really the fans you need to worry about : you can generally run AIO fans slower than on even the large Noctua coolers and get comparable thermal performance. But pump noise is often something that gets overlooked or not measured--some AIOs are lot worse than others; generally you want one with an adjustable / variable speed, rather than a constant speed, if you're super concerned about noise. It'll also heavily depend on your case and setup: I've had an AIO with audible pump noise when on an open bench or whatever, but as soon as I closed the door on the case it was entirely absorbed by the case and other low-end noise. Basically YMMV considerably.
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Nov 16, 2020 23:01
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So I put my first fittings and tube in and stepped back to check out my work. Then it hit me: Is the ball valve in a totally stupid place and essentially ineffective? I'm thinking that instead of coming off the side of a 3-way adapter it should go beneath, and a tube running to the rad below should be off the side instead?
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Nov 18, 2020 15:29
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Cloner of the Elks posted:So I put my first fittings and tube in and stepped back to check out my work. I'm assuming it is a drain port? Then you should try to make sure it is as close to the bottom of the loop as possible, or in a place that can become the bottom of the loop easily.
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Nov 18, 2020 16:10
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It's a drain port, yeah. The radiator is at the bottom of the case, though
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Nov 18, 2020 16:59
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Cloner of the Elks posted:It's a drain port, yeah. The radiator is at the bottom of the case, though Then you're not going to be able to drain very much through it. You'll basically be able to drain out whatever's above it, so by the looks of it your pump/res. The rest of the tubing and the rad will remain filled unless you tip the entire thing on its side (which may very well be the easiest option).
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Nov 18, 2020 17:02
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Alright, thanks! I guess it's better than having no drain point at all, at least
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Nov 18, 2020 17:19
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I'm looking at rebuilding my rig soon and am going to finally be doing away with my full tower and adopting SFF. I'm looking at Sliger cases and it looks like if I want to get *really* compact I'm limited to a 92mm AIO vs 240mm for some of their slightly larger cases. How much of a difference does this make? From my limited research it looks like the 92mm radiators are able to hold up just fine but I want to make sure I'm not missing anything
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Dec 1, 2020 14:20
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PIZZA.BAT posted:I'm looking at rebuilding my rig soon and am going to finally be doing away with my full tower and adopting SFF. I'm looking at Sliger cases and it looks like if I want to get *really* compact I'm limited to a 92mm AIO vs 240mm for some of their slightly larger cases. How much of a difference does this make? From my limited research it looks like the 92mm radiators are able to hold up just fine but I want to make sure I'm not missing anything The "rule of thumb" I was always given was 120mm per component, with an additional 120mm of headroom if you plan to overclock. Honestly, I think this is bullshit, since 120mm can come in 25mm, 35mm, 60mm... thicknesses. Which while not as effective as another 120mm of length, still adds surface area and thus heat rejection, and I've seen with my own eyes a non-negligible difference in temperature between thinner and thicker radiators (fans held equal). I still don't have a good way to judge cooling effectiveness of a radiator in a volume-to-watts all else held equal way, since everyone always tells me when I ask that the calculations are too complicated. You're probably fine putting a stock processor on a 92mm radiator, but maybe consider something a bit higher up the SFF volume chain like an Ncase M1 or Coolermaster NR200/P if you want to do water cooling in SFF. Both are more forgiving and have some hyper optimized setups you can play with. I'm still working on my dual 240 Ncase setup--just need the EK 3080FE block and a radiator. The NR200 in particular is extremely forgiving, since it's pretty much just an upscaled Ncase M1. Usually the manufacturer will have something to say about what they think their product can and can't cool, so if you're looking at AIO's, take a look at manufacturer documentation. Much like overclocking, there's some wiggle room here since usually these recommendations are for a specific fan speed and temperature target. If your temperature target is higher, you can cool something that puts out more watts than the recommendation. You just have to be comfortable with 70C at load instead of 65C or whatever.
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Dec 1, 2020 14:49
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Yeah after thinking about it a bit more I figured getting a slightly larger case which allows for 240mm radiators is worth the tradeoff.
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Dec 1, 2020 14:54
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PIZZA.BAT posted:Yeah after thinking about it a bit more I figured getting a slightly larger case which allows for 240mm radiators is worth the tradeoff. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HZS0ljxYxWw Here. I'm doing a version of this.
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Dec 1, 2020 15:36
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PIZZA.BAT posted:I'm looking at rebuilding my rig soon and am going to finally be doing away with my full tower and adopting SFF. I'm looking at Sliger cases and it looks like if I want to get *really* compact I'm limited to a 92mm AIO vs 240mm for some of their slightly larger cases. How much of a difference does this make? From my limited research it looks like the 92mm radiators are able to hold up just fine but I want to make sure I'm not missing anything If you're going Zen3 (and you should be) a 92mm AIO will be more than enough to keep it cool. I think people tend to over-estimate the heat output of things sometimes, and as Warmachine said, the difference between a 120mm and a 240mm is often like 5C, and frankly who cares about that unless it's running right up against a thermal throttle (and it won't be)? Like there is absolute no reason to care about your CPU having a load temp of 70C instead of 65C. It just doesn't matter. The NR200 is a thread darling for a reason, though, so unless you really want the smallest case available, it's an excellent all around choice that won't have you hating yourself while you try to figure out how the hell you're going to route cables or whatever.
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Dec 1, 2020 15:44
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DrDork posted:If you're going Zen3 (and you should be) a 92mm AIO will be more than enough to keep it cool. I think people tend to over-estimate the heat output of things sometimes, and as Warmachine said, the difference between a 120mm and a 240mm is often like 5C, and frankly who cares about that unless it's running right up against a thermal throttle (and it won't be)? Like there is absolute no reason to care about your CPU having a load temp of 70C instead of 65C. It just doesn't matter. Exactly. Sweating it out is really only productive if you're doing some wacky poo poo like redlining a 10900k with a 3090 going full boar. If you're doing something like that, you're not coming to us for help since you already know what the gently caress you're doing.
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Dec 1, 2020 15:50
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Crossposting this from the GPU thread, I'm especially interested in the concern about separating a GPU loop from a CPU loop, because I'd prefer to keep rad fan speeds way way down:Nomyth posted:
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Dec 1, 2020 19:21
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Had another thought. Passively cool a CPU while dedicating a loop to the GPU for less noise while idle?
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Dec 1, 2020 19:35
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Nomyth posted:Crossposting this from the GPU thread, I'm especially interested in the concern about separating a GPU loop from a CPU loop, because I'd prefer to keep rad fan speeds way way down: Honestly fan noise is not likely to be a major issue unless you have poo poo fans or sit with the case right next to your head for some reason. The bigger noise complaint is likely to be the pump. You don't even need to passive-cool the CPU, you can get efficient, low-RPM fan setups like ones on offer from Noctura that are effectively silent at pretty much everything short of benchmark / torture test loads.
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Dec 1, 2020 19:38
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Nomyth posted:Had another thought. Passively cool a CPU while dedicating a loop to the GPU for less noise while idle? My cpu is air cooled with only my gpu being liquid cooled. Noise and temps are good.
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Dec 1, 2020 19:45
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I have a custom water cooler, my EKWB D5 PWM pump is a little noisy at full throttle, but at 35% (~1875 RPM) it is totally silent and still circulates the entire volume of the loop in just a few seconds. Pump noise should never be a problem with a D5 as long as you get one with PWM control, same as fans, absolutely no reason to run them at 100% throttle pretty much ever. Loudest thing in my PC by miles is the 14 TB worth of mechanical hard drives for bulk storage, and they are only spinning about 5% of the time. My radiator is 420MM with 3x 140mm Noctua fans, case fans are 3x 140mm corsair fans, and both sets run at ~500 RPM and are also inaudible. The load temperature delta between 100% throttle on everything and normal silent settings is roughly 2C. If you want silence, get a big radiator with big fans and run everything at fixed low RPMs. You can easily dump 400w worth of heat out of a radiator this size in total silence if you allow the coolant to run ~12-14C over ambient. It will yield roughly 50C GPU and 80C CPU temps when running respective power virus stress test loads (furmark and prime95 AVX at the same time).
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Dec 2, 2020 00:53
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Nomyth posted:Had another thought. Passively cool a CPU while dedicating a loop to the GPU for less noise while idle? Here's another perspective: your CPU and GPU are unlikely to both be running at max load at the same time. Your most likely cases are High GPU/Medium CPU or High CPU/Low GPU. Knowing this, you're unlikely to actually saturate a properly sized GPU+CPU loop, unless you are intentionally doing it or have an edge case workload. If you are gaming, you just won't. Full stop. Furthermore, in a setup like this, instead of having GPU or CPU temperature control the fans, which doesn't take into account the other component, you can stick a thermal sensor in the loop and control the fans by coolant temperature. What advantage does this have? Less hysteresis from spikes in load, since the coolant takes time to saturate with heat--your fans won't ramp up and down with every little spike in load, and will ramp up slower in response to sustained loads in order to keep the liquid temperature in the target range. There's more work involved to get this set up right, but everything I've heard says It's Just Better. Indiana_Krom posted:I have a custom water cooler, my EKWB D5 PWM pump is a little noisy at full throttle, but at 35% (~1875 RPM) it is totally silent and still circulates the entire volume of the loop in just a few seconds. Pump noise should never be a problem with a D5 as long as you get one with PWM control, same as fans, absolutely no reason to run them at 100% throttle pretty much ever. Loudest thing in my PC by miles is the 14 TB worth of mechanical hard drives for bulk storage, and they are only spinning about 5% of the time. My radiator is 420MM with 3x 140mm Noctua fans, case fans are 3x 140mm corsair fans, and both sets run at ~500 RPM and are also inaudible. The load temperature delta between 100% throttle on everything and normal silent settings is roughly 2C. This. Noise is tied to RPM. If you need high RPM to get your cooling performance, it'll be loud. Low RPM will be quiet. Add more radiators and add more fans running slower to make quieter. (To a point anyway, I'm sure there's a math function that shows where adding another fan adds more decibels than increasing fan RPM for equivalent cooling, but it's probably so ludicrous as to not be worth addressing.)
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Dec 2, 2020 02:10
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Nomyth posted:Had another thought. Passively cool a CPU while dedicating a loop to the GPU for less noise while idle?
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Dec 2, 2020 03:17
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