|
BurritoJustice posted:EK is ok, but their QC is a bit spotty and you pay for the name. Thanks. I should have mentioned that I'm based in Canada so it's hard to find a lot of this stuff. HWLabs is on our amazon.ca but nothing in 420 seems to be on there. I filled a cart on EKWB tonight and then was hit with 80 bucks shipping on top of the 20% duty I'd have to pay, which kinda made me hesitate. I wasn't expecting to have to pay what now comes to 800CAD to set up watercooling. Kinda don't know what to do now, my cart is still full so maybe I'll sleep on it. The Canadian distributor is canadacomputers which is one of the least useful businesses in this space.
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2022 07:38
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 26, 2024 22:16 |
|
|
VelociBacon posted:Thanks. I should have mentioned that I'm based in Canada so it's hard to find a lot of this stuff. HWLabs is on our amazon.ca but nothing in 420 seems to be on there. I really would look at 480 instead of 420, it's more total raddage and 140mm fans kinda suck right now (no 140x25 or T30-140) I like performancePCs, shipping is expensive but fixed rate and they've got a full range of HWLabs. Make sure to post your list before you order just to double check everything.
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2022 07:44
|
|
|
BurritoJustice posted:I really would look at 480 instead of 420, it's more total raddage and 140mm fans kinda suck right now (no 140x25 or T30-140) Thanks, I can't fit 2x 480s in my case and I don't mind the 140mm noctua offerings already in my PC. It's really overkill anyways since I only have a 9900k and single 3090 in the loop. I could probably get away with one 360. I looked around at that page but couldn't find what I was looking for. Here's the list but I just put the order through (I double checked it with a couple people already): List:  I'll flush the rads out aggressively 
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2022 08:05
|
|
|
Want to throw in I have a 9900K (stock except unlimited turbo power) and a EVGA 3080 Ti FTW3 (also stock) on a custom EKWB loop with only a single 420 radiator up top. It works fine, ~500w load gaming, max coolant temperature in a comfortable room is about 43C which translates to ~52C GPU, ~60C CPU. The CPU just sits at 4.7 all core turbo forever when gaming, and the GPU settles around 1950-1965 MHz boost forever. Two radiators are not strictly necessary, although having a second one wont hurt anything, it just may not actually help by a measurable amount. Also I stuck one of these in as the cap on my GPU manifold: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CMR3CC2/ which I use to control my radiator fans and pump via the coolant temperature directly. If your motherboard or fan controller has an option for using a thermristor like that as a control source I highly recommend doing so as it will smooth out your fan/pump speed controls like magic. (Note, certain motherboards may force the CPU FAN header to only ever be controlled by the CPU temp and cannot be overridden by a different sensor, avoid using said header if yours does.)
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2022 14:38
|
|
|
I didn't even think of it, but hey, 9900K + Ampere gang. I have two temp sensors, one for ambient and one for coolant and I typically target 5-10c over ambient. You definitely want to tie fan speed to coolant temp because it's the actual dependant variable. My 3080 sits around 45c in games, but it'll break 50c if I turn up the power limit to 500w and go for 2150MHz core. When I'm mining overnight it sits at a lovely 35c ish CPU is at 5.1, and I've got DDR4 waterblocks delivered and I'm just waiting on some fittings. It seems insane to watercool ram but I've got very low case airflow and I get consistent temperature instability with my ram when overclocking (3900c14 @ 1.55v, goes unstable like clockwork when the ram hits 50c). 360+280+120 radiators
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2022 15:38
|
|
|
Indiana_Krom posted:Want to throw in I have a 9900K (stock except unlimited turbo power) and a EVGA 3080 Ti FTW3 (also stock) on a custom EKWB loop with only a single 420 radiator up top. It works fine, ~500w load gaming, max coolant temperature in a comfortable room is about 43C which translates to ~52C GPU, ~60C CPU. The CPU just sits at 4.7 all core turbo forever when gaming, and the GPU settles around 1950-1965 MHz boost forever. Two radiators are not strictly necessary, although having a second one wont hurt anything, it just may not actually help by a measurable amount. Interesting, I never thought to use a plug like that but it makes a lot of sense. Does everyone use BIOS settings to control their pumps and fans or do you use software for the pump?
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2022 18:40
|
|
|
BIOS settings here, no need to run lovely motherboard/RGB fan software. (And it is easy because only one temperature source.)
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2022 19:50
|
|
|
BurritoJustice posted:I really would look at 480 instead of 420, it's more total raddage and 140mm fans kinda suck right now (no 140x25 or T30-140) Arctic P14s should be pretty good I believe.
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2022 20:01
|
|
|
I already actually have a full complement of noctua 140s so I should be alright. I like the arctic stuff though. Do you guys vary your pump speed in BIOS as well? If not, where do you leave it set to in terms of PWM? VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 21:00 on Jan 9, 2022 |
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2022 20:40
|
|
|
I run my pump at 35% PWM (~1875 RPM). Its a D5, they are insanely fast at 100% which is entirely unnecessary and excessive. Less wear and tear plus it renders it totally inaudible. I can override to 100% with some fan control software, but multiple tests checking it between 35% and 100% showed no observable difference in load temperatures on either the CPU or the GPU. Fast enough is fast enough.
Indiana_Krom fucked around with this message at 22:30 on Jan 9, 2022 |
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2022 22:27
|
|
|
Indiana_Krom posted:I run my pump at 35% PWM (~1875 RPM). Its a D5, they are insanely fast at 100% which is entirely unnecessary and excessive. Less wear and tear plus it renders it totally inaudible. I can override to 100% with some fan control software, but multiple tests checking it between 35% and 100% showed no observable difference in load temperatures on either the CPU or the GPU. Fast enough is fast enough. Yeah I kinda plan on just setting it to 40% at first, although I think mine is a DDC pump? 
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2022 02:44
|
|
|
Yeah, I'm pretty sure that's a DDC top. Actually my D5 is at its loudest at like 50% PWM, above or below that it is much quieter. The whole pump assembly vibrates at a specific frequency which the motor just happens to produce at around 50% PWM so it turns into a sympathetic resonance and rattles the whole thing and spreads it to the case like a giant speaker.
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2022 02:56
|
|
|
I keep my D5 at 100%. At the distance I sit from my computer, and with the case sides on, the pump noise isn't audible. Which is strange, because I'll get annoyed if my fans touch 1000rpm I dunno why I'm so much less sensitive to the pump noise. Currently I'm using 2xML140 and 4xML120, but I have four T30-120 and two P140 CO on order. The ML fans have really low and soothing bearing noise but it's obvious they aren't the best fan blade design for airflow/RPM
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2022 03:57
|
|
|
VelociBacon posted:
A little late to the party, but I wanted to offer my two cents. 1. I went with a grab bag of components from different places. I went with EK for my blocks because they made what I needed for my jobs. Honestly if I knew that tidbit about HWLabs, I'd have probably gotten their radiators. 2. Heat soak potential. A larger volume of water takes longer to get to saturation temperature. 3. Correct, it does not matter. What might matter is flow direction if your water blocks have some sort of directional gimmick. Read the manuals. 4. No point. You're already well into overkill/diminishing returns territory. 5. Yes. Should be well within all but the most bargain of bargain basement pump specs. Multiple pumps are generally a redundancy thing, and usually only make sense in enterprise-level implementations where you can't just shut down on a whim to fix the problem. 6. Why not set both radiators to intake and use the rear exhaust as exhaust? 7. Brown and beige if your budget allows. If you're dropping that much money on your loop, what is 7x $25USD in fans anyway? Arctic of course is the next best thing and far cheaper if money is actually an object to you. VelociBacon posted:I already actually have a full complement of noctua 140s so I should be alright. I like the arctic stuff though. This might be an SFF problem, but my motherboard simply didn't have the options for the level of control I wanted, so I ended up getting an aquacomputer Octo to run everything, which let me do other silly things like run a 3.25 DDC on a PWM header because the Octo's headers are specced for 2A and most motherboard fan headers are only specced at 1A. But in my case my pump speed is static unless things get outside of my target temperature. Unless I'm in a situation where every last gram of performance matters, the effect of flow speed isn't worth the extra noise--especially in my case as the pump is external due to space constraints. I actually can't praise the Octo/Quadro enough. Aquacomputer's software is great, most of the settings save directly to the board so you can set it and forget it if you don't want to use the more  functions. The big thing for me is the ability to set a target temperature that is variable with the ambient temperature.Above all remember that in the vast majority of cases water cooling is 100% luxury and you're doing this for fun.
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2022 16:05
|
|
|
Warmachine posted:A little late to the party, but I wanted to offer my two cents. Thanks for this! I just hate the idea of bringing heat into my case with 6 140mm fans pulling through rads.
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2022 17:47
|
|
|
VelociBacon posted:Thanks for this! I just hate the idea of bringing heat into my case with 6 140mm fans pulling through rads. Unless you're cranking your RAM to the nines, so long as you're doing something with the air the goes in you're probably fine. You might keep an eye on your VRM temperatures if you notice weird throttling, but in general even hot air across the VRM/RAM is more than they normally get. If you stick a slow, high volume fan on the back you'll help the already very positive pressure exhaust the heat and be in good shape. What really matters is that the air hitting the radiators is fresh.
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2022 18:13
|
|
|
A water cooling story: In 2016, various students and researchers were looking at getting into deep learning. So somebody bought a big powerful workstation with four GTX 1080s, and it was good. As the years passed, we got a bunch of dedicated rack-mount GPU servers with eight GPUs each, and eventually that got turned into a slurm cluster, which is our primary GPU compute capability. The workstation was occasionally used but often forgotten about. In 2020, one of the DNA sequencing platforms we work with came up with a method for selecting pieces of DNA to be sequenced in real-time using GPU compute. To actually try this out, we need a GPU-capable computer to run the DNA sequencer. We came to an agreement to repurpose the GPU workstation, and I got our Systems folks to relocate it to the lab. The GTX 1080s should be more than adequate for the task. So they moved it to the lab, but we didn't actually find a student or post-doc to actually play around with this new sequencing technology for a while. Meanwhile, a few trainees were still SSHing into this workstation when the slurm cluster was busy. Later that year, there was a ticket on our Jira something like this: Student: Hey can you please reboot the GPU workstation? I can't ssh into it. Systems: Sure thing, it's rebooted! Not sure what was up, maybe some issues with the RAID. Student: Thanks! Yeah that's odd and a little concerning. Student: OK it's a day later and it's stopped responding again. Systems: Oh dear, the BIOS is reporting the CPU overheating. I've turned it off to let it cool down, and set an intern to take a look. Systems: OK, it's back up. I think we'll re-image it and try to rebuild the RAID. Can you please copy off any data you have on there? Student: OK, done! In 2021, I finally did find someone to play around with this technology, and started asking them to install relevant software on the box. The ticket continued: Systems lead: I see this ticket is still open, did this get resolved? Systems: It still has issues rebooting. We tried rebuilding RAID and it didn't help. Also it keeps shutting down, which points to PSU or overheating issues. We tried monitoring temp after boot and it didn't seem too high, though. The next day, this was posted on the ticket:  Welp. (Fortunately only one GPU was toast, and everything else seemed to be fine. Unfortunately they had to replace the water cooler with another water cooler, because the motherboard didn't have enough clearance for a heat sink. So now they'll be actually checking/replacing said water cooling every year or two.)
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2022 23:28
|
|
|
Sometimes I look at the prices of some of the water cooling gear like radiators, pumps, and pc fans and I start day dreaming of just getting a $50 Acura radiator, a box fan, and a Toyota Prius coolant pump. Too bad the aluminum in the car rad and the copper water blocks would eat each other.
|
|
#
?
Jan 12, 2022 03:55
|
|
|
If all the parts I'm buying have G1/4" holes, what tube size do I want if I get PETG tubes? Do I want compression fittings? Do fittings come with compression rings, or do I have to buy them separately?
|
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2022 04:20
|
|
|
The Atomic Man-Boy posted:If all the parts I'm buying have G1/4" holes, what tube size do I want if I get PETG tubes? Do I want compression fittings? Do fittings come with compression rings, or do I have to buy them separately? You can get “whatever” tube size (there are three common ones) as long as the fittings match the ID/OD of the tube. The fitting is the part that mates to the G1/4” interfaces on components and it’s hard to find a modern WC component that does not use G1/4”.
|
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2022 17:44
|
|
|
The Atomic Man-Boy posted:If all the parts I'm buying have G1/4" holes, what tube size do I want if I get PETG tubes? Do I want compression fittings? Do fittings come with compression rings, or do I have to buy them separately? You can use whatever size tubing you want to, and it doesn't make a lot of difference for performance. Just get fittings and tubes that match each other.
|
|
#
?
Jan 15, 2022 23:45
|
|
|
EK got back to me about flushing rads and recommended I just use warm distilled water and shake it around. Do you guys think that would be adequate? I don't want to buy distilled white vinegar and mess with all that if I don't have to. Thanks.
|
|
#
?
Jan 17, 2022 17:48
|
|
|
Am I over-thinking things if I'm worried about the mass of something like this being directly attached to my reservoir via a M-M fitting or similar? Thinking if I just put this in-line from res to pump with an extender on the bottom port, it saves me a bunch of mounting trouble. Also getting some Koolance QDC3s for my top rad, so I can just pop it off and have easy access to the top of the res to fill up. Adding another pair to the tubing run into the CPU WB as well, so I can swap RAM if needed (new sticks and all... I could borrow a SP3 air cooler and bring up the machine before installing all the liquid cooling parts, but what's the fun in that? It looks like they sell both male and female QDCs that have male G1/4" threads -- is there any preference / technical reason to use one over the other? I suppose I could make the inlet/outlet different to prevent any kind of mis-mate but for now I've just planned for female QDCs on the rad and I'll put compression-fit male QDCs on the tubing.
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2022 03:34
|
|
|
my personal suggestion for flushing rads is, plug your new rad on your tap, set it to full blast for 15s, plug it into the other hole and repeat, *then* do the distilled water shaking thing once or twice to flush it out. my rads (not EK tho) came with a bunch of dust/shavings in them and trying to do the distilled water+shake thing was taking waaaaay too long lmao
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2022 16:19
|
|
|
It's not good advice, but tbh I've never flushed radiators from new and never had a problem. Always bought EK though, so I'd be hesitant to recommend it as good advice for watercooling generally.
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2022 16:42
|
|
|
movax posted:Am I over-thinking things if I'm worried about the mass of something like this being directly attached to my reservoir via a M-M fitting or similar? Thinking if I just put this in-line from res to pump with an extender on the bottom port, it saves me a bunch of mounting trouble. I ended up going with the following (sorry for lovely screengrabs):  So the two sets of components I'm directly coupling to each other are reservoir outlet / flow meter (on the way to pump) and then the pump outlet to front rad (with additional TBD mech support). I accidentally RefDes'd the mates instead of individual connectors but this was my planned QDC usage (I like writing my 'user manuals' as part of design to catch opens): QDC1 (Top Radiator Inlet Service Disconnect) Disconnects top radiator from CPU waterblock outlet. When used with QDC2, allows for removal of top radiator for service (fan cables will need to be disconnected from OCTO as well). QDC2 (Top Radiator Outlet Service Disconnect) Disconnects top radiator from GPU waterblock inlet. When used with QDC1, allows for removal of top radiator for service (fan cables will need to be disconnected from OCTO as well). QDC3 (GPU Inlet Service Disconnect) Disconnects GPU inlet from loop. When used with QDC4, allows for removal of GPU for service. QDC4 (GPU Outlet Service Disconnect) Disconnects GPU outlet from loop. When used with QDC3, allows for removal of GPU for service. QDC5 (CPU Waterblock Inlet Hose Service Disconnect) Disconnects CPU waterblock inlet hose from front radiator outlet. Use to temporarily break connection for access to RAM slots. QDC6 (Reservoir / Flow Meter Outlet Service Disconnect) Disconnects outlet of reservoir / flow meter from loop. Use when removing pump + front-rad assembly for service, or to isolate reservoir from loop. QDC7 (Reservoir Inlet Service Disconnect) Disconnects inlet of reservoir from loop. Use when removing reservoir or to help isolate reservoir from loop. Overkill, but will see what sticks -- it is likely that segments of tubing w/ QDCs on either end are not strictly needed unless that tubing itself needs to be completely removed. All QDCs except QDC5 have female QDCs actually threaded into the component which hopefully makes space constraints a bit easier to deal with. I like this though, because pulling QDC1/QDC2, I can straight up lift the top of my Meshify off and have access to the top of res for filling / other stuff. I had a beer-fueled mounting idea appear too for my D5 pump -- this case is going to be mounted in a holder under my standing desk, so... it doesn't matter if poo poo sticks out below it. I'm going to simply cut a hole in the bottom for the bottom of my D5 to stick through and directly mount its outlet to my bottom rad with a MM rotary extender. I'll use some standoffs or L bracket (TBD) to help support the rest of the pump and then that should be sorted! movax fucked around with this message at 00:46 on Jan 19, 2022 |
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2022 23:41
|
|
|
Already found that I hosed up the alignment of the pump and res... I have to say, this process would benefit incredibly if someone sold a cheap-rear end mock set of fittings / hardware (broken, didn't work, etc) to use for test fits and stuff that you could then mail back or send to the next person in line. Either that or everyone puts out accurate STEP models and uses Fusion 360 or SolidWorks.
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2022 23:54
|
|
|
I just got back from a Best Buy and I'm looking for ways to add after market cooling onto my pre-built PC and I got upsold on water based cooling. I can have the store do installation, but I just read the first page of this thread and the last two pages of this thread and I understood nothing and now it's kinda making me scared. I don't know. If I get an all in one kit and a guy who's contractually obligated to work on my computer can I approximate the artesian experience locally? What words do I need to know and how should I ask how to contract maintenance? I am not ready to do this as a hobby, Should I even try to shove a liquid cooler in the ASUS ROG case? Should I make the dude transfer every component into my old Fractal case and maintain air cooling. Instead of spending all this money on cooling... maybe I should get a cabinet or someplace off the floor to put this $1700 piece of capital equipment. Man the future is so loving weird plz help.
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2022 04:16
|
|
|
KirbyKhan posted:I just got back from a Best Buy and I'm looking for ways to add after market cooling onto my pre-built PC and I got upsold on water based cooling. I can have the store do installation, but I just read the first page of this thread and the last two pages of this thread and I understood nothing and now it's kinda making me scared. You almost certainly don't need water cooling, I don't know where to start and I bet 4-5 other goons are writing and erasing replies right now because it's one of those like... yeah. There's so much here but yes you were upsold on something that is going to be an expensive hassle for you that almost guarantees future expensive headaches down the line. Why do you think you need water cooling? What problem are you solving? So water cooling isn't really 'better' than not water cooling, especially if you're the kind of person who doesn't know anything about it. All of us here are overclocking, spending $30 per fan, checking our temps and all that kind of thing. We're spending hours and hours and hours tinkering with stuff to get an extra 4-5%. The bottom line is that air coolers are 100% fine and can absolutely have that system running at peak performance. If THEIR OWN PREBUILT can't cool itself (it almost certainly can) you should be asking for a refund and not giving them more money... VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 05:19 on Jan 21, 2022 |
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2022 05:16
|
|
|
KirbyKhan posted:I just got back from a Best Buy and I'm looking for ways to add after market cooling onto my pre-built PC and I got upsold on water based cooling. I can have the store do installation, but I just read the first page of this thread and the last two pages of this thread and I understood nothing and now it's kinda making me scared. That Asus case will not support liquid cooling in any form. There is only a single functional fan slot, and I believe it's 92mm. There is also limited clearance for tower coolers if you go air cooling. I'm trying to figure out what the clearances are exactly, but Asus does not seem to provide this information. Your options seem very limited with this case. edit: VelociBacon posted:If THEIR OWN PREBUILT can't cool itself (it almost certainly can) lol. I think you will be surprised by how awful some prebuilts can be. And this one seems especially terrible in terms of thermal performance. I would not be surprised at all if it thermally throttles in its stock configuration. edit: three of the five user reviews in that best buy page warn of dangerously high temperatures, including someone saying that their GPU approached 100 degrees while playing Valorant, which is absolutely insane. There's no fixing that except by doing a full case swap. Dr. Video Games 0031 fucked around with this message at 05:36 on Jan 21, 2022 |
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2022 05:25
|
|
|
Step 1 to fixing a lovely prebuilt case with bad cooling is to change the case. 3x 120s in the front does wonders for temps.
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2022 05:29
|
|
|
I built a computer when that first Trump check hit. The graphics card fried from a wired electrical storm that bordered on a haunting. I suddenly got clearance to buy a whole rear end prebuilt and some extra money to make it nicer. A buckwild position to be in. So I was vulnerable to being upsold. The problem I'm trying to solve is noise and airflow. I used a stock fan on the computer I built and I don't like it. After sitting on it for the night I remember why I don't go liquid cooling. The total tech is a family thing... Like an HBO subscription that was set up to watch Sopranos when it was current and just... kept going and now the next generation has HBO Go and a grandbaby gets to watch Dune. So I guess I'm trying to maximize the use of the subscription service because I'm not allowed to turn it off to save other people money. The water cool upsell was mostly motivated by being burned by the GPU drop this morning. I wanted best buy to pay and I couldnt think of anything more cantankerous that making a geeksquad guy do extra fiddling to a prebuilt. Thank you thread for existing and responding. I'm much calmer now. Just gonna trade in the water cooler for a Master Cooler and another monitor or some ram I guess idk I'm booting the thing tomorrow. Edit: or whatever the only thing I wanted was the 3070. I got a fractal case and case fans already lmao my CPU wasn't broken it was just the gpu oh computers and decision making are hard. What the gently caress am I gonna do with all these components?!?! Ahhh this is how people end up with NAS storage and Plex servers!!! KirbyKhan fucked around with this message at 05:56 on Jan 21, 2022 |
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2022 05:51
|
|
|
KirbyKhan posted:I built a computer when that first Trump check hit. The graphics card fried from a wired electrical storm that bordered on a haunting. I suddenly got clearance to buy a whole rear end prebuilt and some extra money to make it nicer. A buckwild position to be in. So I was vulnerable to being upsold. Just put your components in the fractal case and get a decent air cooler for the cpu. This whole thing is pretty all over the place and I hope you are taking care of your mental health.
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2022 16:37
|
|
|
Yeah I'm good now. Just had pressure from rich people to get the best for myself and extremely quickly before the whim passes. Tested the rig today: Runs well. I'm going to slow walk swapping components until I set up better furniture. Probably 2 weeks. I'm just tired printing out specs lists, playing mother may I for an imaginary budget, and flailing at bots for product drops, poo poo is too stressful and unnecessary.
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2022 21:23
|
|
|
KirbyKhan posted:Yeah I'm good now. Just had pressure from rich people to get the best for myself and extremely quickly before the whim passes. Tested the rig today: Runs well. I'm going to slow walk swapping components until I set up better furniture. Probably 2 weeks. I'm just tired printing out specs lists, playing mother may I for an imaginary budget, and flailing at bots for product drops, poo poo is too stressful and unnecessary. It sounds like you got a blessing and a curse all in one package. Goondolances. Looks like you got your questions answered, but to add my voice to the choir: 1) That case looks like it doesn't breathe at all. Dump it and get something engineered for function first. That should solve your noise and airflow problem. 2) Water cooling is the hobby car of PC building. AIOs like the Kraken are fine and do what they're billed to do, but in my opinion are overkill for non-hobbyist application. And if you're doing this as a hobby, you're probably building your own custom loop anyway. In my opinion (as I voiced somewhere up thread), most off-the-shelf water cooling options like AIOs are targeting the wrong part of the computer. For technical reasons, it's a lot easier to build an off-the-shelf AIO for a CPU than to build one for a GPU, despite the GPU getting far and away more benefit from it. To me, what watercooling does is provide a 'soak period' to solve the issue of fan hysteresis and allow me to put all the components of the system on the same heat exchanger, which is part of solving that first part. I can monitor the temperature of the whole system from a single sensor, and physics makes sure that the temperature of the loop averages out across the components. If you're not wanting to go into the hobby side of PC building, I'd stick with air cooling. I think all of this is honestly pretty easy, but it requires time and money to get it right. Time measuring, collecting parts, and assembling, and money to buy the parts and smooth over any measuring gaffs.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2022 05:34
|
|
|
I would also point out that even the biggest (360mm) AIOs struggle to perform better on a modern CPU than a less expensive and more reliable 140mm tower cooler. Basically AIOs are trash if you want actual cooling performance, their use case is when you need flexibility for mounting a cooler because a 140mm tower cooler won't fit in whatever case you have selected but an AIO will. For that matter, even full blown custom water cooling setups with multiple massive radiators will struggle to get a much lower CPU temperature than a 140mm tower cooler. My own custom loop basically only lowered operating temps on my 9900k by a couple degrees, and if I overclock it a bit which gets it up to 225w power consumption it thermal throttles at 99C because of the heat spreader, there is just too much stuff between the CPU die and the coolant for it to perform well. My GPU on the other hand has the die in direct contact with the water block and runs 30C cooler than it did on its original massive air cooler. My reason for using a water cooler is purely for the sound benefit, my system is very quiet and even at load with the fans ramped up it doesn't make any high pitched sounds because the fans are all 140mm and top off at ~1200 RPM.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2022 13:46
|
|
|
movax posted:It looks like they sell both male and female QDCs that have male G1/4" threads -- is there any preference / technical reason to use one over the other? I suppose I could make the inlet/outlet different to prevent any kind of mis-mate but for now I've just planned for female QDCs on the rad and I'll put compression-fit male QDCs on the tubing. Well, they came in and I figured it out... female ones have the ring you pull on them for the disconnect, male end is static. Will still work fine, but I have a few spots now where I have to pull in a slightly awkward direction -- would have been better off putting the female ends on the hoses. Oh well, learned for next one! i should not watercool my NAS
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2022 02:38
|
|
|
Indiana_Krom posted:I would also point out that even the biggest (360mm) AIOs struggle to perform better on a modern CPU than a less expensive and more reliable 140mm tower cooler. Basically AIOs are trash if you want actual cooling performance, their use case is when you need flexibility for mounting a cooler because a 140mm tower cooler won't fit in whatever case you have selected but an AIO will. This does not appear to follow what I see in reviews all the time, where 240mm AIOs outperform the NH-D15 and 360mm AIOs tend to do even better in terms of both noise levels and overall cooling performance. It sounds like what you're describing is a problem with the 9900K specifically and not water cooling in general.
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2022 03:12
|
|
|
I have a 280mm corsair AIO on my 9900k and it cools fine. The limitation is definitely the TIM on this chip.
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2022 03:37
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 26, 2024 22:16 |
|
|
Oh no! I have to remove RAM / get the radiator out of the way! What do I do!  Honestly not sure if the MVP is the QDCs or the 2x angled 45s, but it is so easy. Bit nervous about the torque on the fittings, but I think when everything is properly installed / buttoned up, it'll be fine. Thinking about getting some anti-kink coils just in case though, for things like that bend on the left. If you're doing a soft tubing run and can afford them... its about $25/pair of them. Compare against the time savings and these are no-brainers. If AMD does actually release a sTRX4 Zen 3 Threadripper, I can probably execute the CPU swap in under 15 minutes with this and not break my loop. e: please forgive the hideous RAM. It was $200 cheaper than the as far as I can tell equivalent other CL14 B-die sets from G. Skill and no one is ever going to see it. e2: That's a ASUS Hyper M.2 card as a length placeholder -- I've left room in this system to allow for every 1) PCIe slot to be used, 2) 2 full length (300 mm) PCIe cards to be populated if need be. Some day it will be a RTX-series GPU, for now it'll be a 1080 + said Hyper M.2 card because you can never have too much storage + god hates wasted PCI Express lanes. Below is a Chelsio 40 GbE NIC and then an Intel quad-port NIC for my point-to-point DUT connection needs. movax fucked around with this message at 23:02 on Jan 24, 2022 |
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2022 22:54
|
|