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Endymion FRS MK1 posted:There's two actually! I did not know those were things. I've been thinking about doing a Meshify C build... and then I saw this: https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-quantum-reflection-fractal-atx-d5-pwm-d-rgb-plexi I thought I read somewhere that the R6/Meshify C have the same internal structure, just differ in some external cosmetics? Wonder if that would work in a Meshify C.
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Sep 8, 2020 23:48
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Endymion FRS MK1 posted:It says it supports the Meshify S2, isn't that more or less the same case? If so it'd help a ton, my C is kinda jammed with tubing Nah, the S2 is loving massive compared to the C — I built my work machine in a S2 and it's quite a bit longer. I really need something that's compact enough to mount in a CPU holder under my standing desk — not sure if anyone's found a good Goldilocks case for water cooling + mounting under a desk. What rad config do you have in your C? I'm thinking 240 mm, 360 mm rads, D5 pump, HEATKILLER IV PRO WB so far.
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Sep 9, 2020 00:36
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Quick question on Aquaero products... if my needs (I think these are my needs) are basically: control radiator fans (5x Noctua), monitor coolant temp, hook up to flow sensor, maybe hook up pump (just so I can set and forget a speed, I don't want to control pump speed around delta T, I think...), I could probably just get away with the QUADRO and not pay $$ for their big boy computer, right? Fans I can run off a splitter, (2x on a 240 rad, 3x on 360 rad), so I don't think that's a problem. Ideally I'll keep it hooked up to configure and tweak, and then let it run more-or-less standalone. In terms of loop control... I'm used to much larger coolant loops / vehicle coolant systems where we're moving RPM around and watching for differential pressure / coolant delta Ts, and my last WC adventure was 15 years ago. In the end my process variable is CPU / GPU temps, but realistically, I think the only thing I want to actuate is fan RPM in response to coolant temperature, and keep flow rate / pump speed constant. People don't typically see or measure a delta T across blocks, do they? Also -- I want to get the HEATKILLER IV block for my 1080 FTW... brand new its like $130, for a 5 year old GPU... I do plan on upgrading GPUs at some point but obviously that's difficult right now. Should I troll any specific forums for people selling used WC parts?
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Mar 18, 2021 20:52
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Warmachine posted:Quadro is probably fine. I ended up getting an Octo just because I could get it now, but it sounds like you have 3 discreet things you want to control: 240mm radiator, 360mm radiator, and pump. As long as you're not drawing more than 2A per chain, you should be fine (going by Octo spec, which should be no different on a per-header basis). You won't be able to control each fan separately, but you probably want to control them as those three groups anyway. Sounds sane to me! I will just plan in the GPU from the start but maybe not grab the waterblock, so I can at least not have to do a ton when I add it.
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Mar 18, 2021 22:16
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Now the text thing is to think which pump. I really like this guy's build (https://pcpartpicker.com/b/JrRJ7P) and I think his initial version had a DDC hanging out on the rear 120 mm location. I'm wondering if I can cram a D5 down in the bottom of the Meshify C, maybe deleting the bottom-most fan on the 360 mm front rad if I have too. What are the favorites for D5 makers? EK has plenty of course, I don't care about RGB at all, just want a quiet, reliable, PWM-able D5 pump, potentially with a res. I've read that T-lines are out of favor these days, so a tiny res / expansion tank I can cram in somewhere would be legit. Add a bleeder valve at the top and drain valve at the bottom?
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Mar 19, 2021 00:13
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Warmachine posted:If you can, get a res. If you can't fit the res in your case, get a pair of quick disconnect fittings. Then you can hook up a res for filling the loop and close the loop when you're done. Ooh -- I didn't think about that, that's a great idea. Not like I have room for a T-Line either, but that would at least solve the problem of de-aerating. I will definitely add a drain valve, but for this temporary rad idea, would I want those QD fittings up near the top of the loop? If I somehow managed to get a D5+rad combo that fit, it would live at the bottom of the loop, which sounds suboptimal.
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Mar 19, 2021 19:39
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Canna Happy posted:I had a d5 + res mounted horizontally in my meshify c. I just drilled two holes and used the ekwb mount. I think with ekwbs smallest tube it could be mounted vertical. I took my loop apart, but I still have everything including the smallest res tube if you want measurements of anything. Where specifically in the case did you have it? forbidden dialectics posted:Just a heads up. The Quadro can't do "virtual" sensors like the Aquaero can, i.e., you can't make a water/air delta temperature and control your fans off of that. You can only control it off of absolute temperatures. That may or may not be a dealbreaker for you Ah, bummer... I don't think I need that. Is that more useful in areas where ambient air temp moves a lot?
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Mar 19, 2021 23:31
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Endymion FRS MK1 posted:Not them but I did a custom loop in a Meshify C. Didn't have to drill anything, I was able to mount the pump/res to the top fan mounts I'm trying to remember what website I saw it on, but they showed a pic of mounting the pump/res to a rad on a piece of metal that piggy backs on the fan threaded holes on the rad. Bit of "expense" on flow restriction, and converting the top fans to pull instead of push, but that might be a clean way for me to do it + keep the pump/res at (virtually) the highest point in my loop. Anyone use anything like this before?
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Mar 20, 2021 07:05
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Warmachine posted:Well, the dish soap thing let me get my loop put back together in half the time and a quarter the pain. I messed up on one part because I was rushing and took a shortcut, but I know how to fix that. Yeah, that math checks out; you can double-check the gauge of the wire you're using (you'll have some voltage drop) but 2 ADC is pretty typical for those 100 mil headers. How loud is that guy? I need to get off my rear end and keep ordering parts -- I think I've actually convinced myself that I should just go back to using a Vario D5. Are they all created equal more or less if they are from Xylem? I think I belatedly understand now... you can buy the pump "Core" itself, and then you can choose your top for it, based on whatever fittings / connections / etc you need? And then you pick a bracket, and done? I just want some kind of RGB-less top to go along with a dead nuts simple pump core.
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Mar 23, 2021 16:37
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Warmachine posted:Vdrop should be pretty small. 50mV at the most extreme end (300mm of 22 AWG), and I'm overestimating the length of the leads on purpose. 18 AWG will be a tough crimp in those contacts for most families; even 20 can be pushing it for some (there are a few TE part numbers that work OK); I use Harwin M20s for most of my 100mil signaling wiring needs. Just found the Quadro in stock, and went with a Watercool D5 pump. Stocking my cart at EK now with fittings (Quantum HDC) and some acrylic tubing. Since my case has no windows, I’m just going matte black for all the fittings with gold / nickel rings to do inlet vs outlet at a glance. Now, just need a res — what’s the smallest one folks like to use with the biggest variety of brackets / options for mounting? Think I’ll place it right above the pump inlet.
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Mar 29, 2021 02:33
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AutismVaccine posted:Why no pump/res combo? I wasn't sure I'd be able to fit it somewhere, but as these things always go... after ordering the separate pump, I realize that the bottom 120 mm fan mount area in the Meshify C would probably have worked fine for something like this.  Bracket wise now, I'm thinking that little area in the rear of the case above the PCIe slots would probably work OK to place the res and have a decent amount of space to get a fill port into the top of it -- I need to dig up the picture of what I'm looking for there to figure out what kind of bracket would do the job. e: This area, what search terms / bracket would I get?  Bend out the bottom of that, run along bottom, right down to the pump. Would feed res inlet from the future GPU block. So overall, that would go res ->flow meter / temp sensor -> pump -> front rad -> top rad -> CPU block -> GPU block -> back to res... doesn't sound optimal to kick the warm coolant through the pump, but overall delta T should be small in tiny loops, right? Super easy fill like the pic, and maybe a QD / T fitting near the pump to use as the drain valve? Case will be mounted under my standing desk, so it's trivial to raise it up and pop a valve on the bottom to drain it. movax fucked around with this message at 06:43 on Mar 30, 2021 |
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Mar 29, 2021 16:20
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Kerosene19 posted:Standing on my desk. Case sits on a slate by my right foot. I saw that pic the other day! Made me think “huh, poo poo, I’m mounting right under a standing desk, totally could have done that.” What kind of pump is feeding that? I imagine doing a 240 and 360 inside the case and then also an external 360 is overkill but those fans will uh, never spin up.
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Apr 4, 2021 20:27
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Doing some planning / trying to get an EKWB order in with most of what I'm looking for. Two ideas I have for routing tubes:  Above should be pump -> front rad -> top rad -> CPU block -> res -> flow meter -> pump. I would flip the front so the ports are on the bottom. In retrospect, maybe I should have gotten a 360GTS cross flow for the front.  Above should be pump -> front rad -> CPU block -> top rad -> res -> flow meter -> pump. Orange is flow meter, pink is notional reservoir (not selected yet), grey is where pump will go (Watercool D5). That's a placeholder GPU; my real one is a 1080 in this machine that I will move over and keep air cooled unless I find a cheap / used 1080 block somewhere, but eventually I will have a liquid cooled GPU in here. Plan is to use 12 mm hard-tubing. I think I can squeeze a tee-fitting + drain-valve at the bottom near the pump, and then fill from the res. I'm going to flip all the fans I think as well to turn into a push configuration. The Quadro I will put... somewhere, the molex connector on it is at an awkward angle. Thoughts on configurations?
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Apr 6, 2021 20:18
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Warmachine posted:My OG plan with my quadro was going to be dedicating a molex plug on my PSU to it by removing the socket and soldering directly to the board contacts, but the situation where I'd have used that config didn't pan out. I ended up command stripping my octo to the lower part of the Ncase's front panel, which puts it right in the little void above the front I/O. Yeah -- I think I would end up optimizing for least number of bends. Just wanted to preplan enough to not get stuck waiting for more fittings from EK. What's the search term / mounting widget for putting a res on the location I want it there? I guess any bracket with screws + washers will work fine, I'll just bolt it through the vent in the rear. e: Also, in terms of that rad placement; obviously won't be the highest part of my loop. Should I add a little bleeder valve near the top off a T or something? Or will the air just compress / bleed out in the reservoir? movax fucked around with this message at 00:11 on Apr 7, 2021 |
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Apr 6, 2021 23:55
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Indiana_Krom posted:D5 pumps at full throttle are insanely fast, the reservoir will catch all the bubbles within a couple minutes of running that pump at full throttle so no need to worry about them. Water loops pretty much always form air bubbles in the high points after a while anyway unless you run a D5 at high throttle the whole time which I don't recommend because that makes them noisy and it accelerates the wear. Air bubbles don't cause any significant impact in performance and you can always flush them out by overriding the pump to 100% for a few minutes with software anyway. Good to know -- I ended up getting a Vario but am going to leave it as accessible as I can to just stick a screwdriver in to vary the speed if needed. Didn't want to have extra PWM circuitry in the loop if I didn't need it. I'll worry a bit less about the air part now... Warmachine posted:I mean, theoretically the only fittings you need with hards are the terminal fittings for each item in the loop, since you can make custom bends in your tubing. That's not my case in that pic but was a good visual to try and point out which area of the case I was thinking. Turns out it's... pretty narrow, I have like 50 mm of width to work with before it might run into the top of a card (since I still have air-cooled poo poo). Since the cards in the lower slots are all full-height but not GPUs, maybe I will turn a res on its side / get a flatter one and just put it on top of the PSU Cage area. And... good point, I have a minimum set of fittings I know I need so I'll just pull the EK trigger now so I have more and more LEGO bits to play with. movax fucked around with this message at 16:51 on Apr 7, 2021 |
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Apr 7, 2021 16:48
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Warmachine posted:I'd also recommend going with a pump-res combo unit. Having them be discrete for anything other than space reasons (and the Meshify C has plenty of space IIRC) is just taking up two mounting points when one will suffice. I already got a separate pump though I guess I could always to resell the top + switch it to a res. It is very, very crowded for me though... I have an AX1600i at the bottom which really eats into space in the bottom bay. I started more seriously mounting parts in there and oh man, I don't have anywhere near the space I thought I did / nor the ability to actually set up fans in a pusher config for all the rads (top rad will smack right into VRM heatsink on my mobo). Fun! I'm going to tetris it more this weekend and then do the count of fittings / angled fittings and stuff I need.
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Apr 9, 2021 21:38
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Warmachine posted:
I got really really excited watching Jensen pull a 3090 out of the oven ok!?!? (And it was free)
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Apr 10, 2021 18:36
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Are you running a microwave with a PCIe connector god drat.
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movax posted:I got really really excited watching Jensen pull a 3090 out of the oven ok!?!? I think I figured out how to mount the pump and get everything I wanted, and all it took was a beer and a bunch of rotating it around before it clicked. I want to make sure the orientation doesn't dry out the pump though / gently caress it up (pretty sure it won't):  Heatkiller D5 and top above. There are two inlets / two outlets available -- you're looking at an open inlet here, and open outlet is on the bottom. Notionally, I will build or buy some brackets to mount this on the radiator. There is a full length HYPER M.2 card that sits above this that limits how high up I can put the pump.  This is the other side -- thankfully the speed control will be accessible if I pop off the side panel. What I wanted to show here is that if you look below the pump... you'll see the ports from the radiator hanging out there. Going to be tight to work with, but that's what I got. One of them I'll angle 90-ish and shoot a tube upwards... the other (closer to this side), I want to mate to the outlet port of the pump which is facing down.  You can basically see it here -- I want to make a bend here and mate it all up. Should I do this with soft tubing? Try to build some slotted brackets such that I can move the pump around to try and land a 2x 45 fitting to make the mate? I think I will want my drain valve here too, so I need to cram a T-fitting in somewhere along the line. So in the end, this is the orientation:  Still seems OK since inlet is above the outlet, right? If I think about how I fill this up, the pump will be fed immediately by a reservoir, gravity will be on side (outlet will be flooded / primed as well) and it seems like I shouldn't damage the pump. But, could use a sanity check.
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Apr 20, 2021 05:34
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It's not weird / technically a bad thing to mix hardline and soft tubing, right? As times goes on and I realize how little time I have to spend on this project... for some of these really weird paths, I feel like soft-tubing would let me get the job done faster. Unless I have 3D models of each of these components + my case, I feel like I'm going to end up with a pile of pricey adapters (potentially) and things mis-aligned by a few mm. movax fucked around with this message at 04:59 on Jul 12, 2021 |
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Jul 12, 2021 04:54
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BurritoJustice posted:There is nothing wrong with it. A popular way of doing hardline a while ago was to use soft tubing in the back for easy maintenance and routing. No need to go to the extra effort for what's out of sight. I recommend it if you're part of the "stuff the rear panel on and forget about it" cable gang So I think after studying this again over the break, and realizing I keep making like no progress (I keep getting wrapped up in thinking I need to CAD up a bracket and send it to Protolabs for fab...), I might just go all soft tubing. I have no windows in this case -- I know hard tubing is primarily done for aesthetic reasons, are there any other advantages to it over soft tubing? This is effectively the build I am doing / trying to follow: https://pcpartpicker.com/b/JrRJ7P and I cannot figure out how the gently caress he did the pump there in the lower left. I have the Heatkiller D5 top and my inlets/outlets don't work unless I fab some kind of bracket to mount it to my front rad + rotate it like 270 degrees. I think the outlet on that pump should be pointing straight down, and he's got a 90 degree or something hitting the front rad, but not sure. I think I'll get an EK XRES 110 for my reservoir and mount it to the front rad using some EK bracket -- kinda want to do a T-line for old times sake, but the res seems easier / cheaper in the long run. Still a few easy places hard tubing could work for me (like CPU block to top rad), but... 
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Jan 4, 2022 00:25
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e: neat, double post. have my puppy instead:
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Jan 4, 2022 00:25
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Yeah, I’ve just been an idiot. Bought some EPDM tubing (amazingly not cheaper on McMaster…) and EK STC fittings to get the ball rolling, plus a EK X3 110 reservoir. Found a Heatkiller D5 mount that might actually work for me, so I’m gonna try that out as well. Not sure where to put a fill port, but with a soft tubing loop… who cares, right? Easier maintenance good by me.
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Jan 5, 2022 02:02
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Indiana_Krom posted:With soft tubing you don't even need a fill port or a drain port, you can just release the mounts then grab the whole reservoir and tilt it upside down into a pan to drain the system. Filling one only takes a scrap piece of tubing and a funnel into the top of the reservoir. I was an idiot for even spending time thinking about how to do a rigid / hardline build in a case with NO windows / no fucks given on cosmetics. Truly.
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Jan 5, 2022 04:00
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What's the goto coolant these days? Way back when I did distilled + biocides, is distilled + corrosion inhibitors the way to go? Obviously w/ EPDM tubing I don't care about the color whatsoever, just something low maintenance that won't gunk up my blocks. Vanilla EK CryoFuel? e: Maybe colored is a decent idea just to help out in leak testing.
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Jan 5, 2022 22:28
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gwrtheyrn posted:This is more applicable to the ones that aren't just some dyes right? I've mostly heard this about the once with fancy suspended pigments or whatever. I think so -- my Googling / review reading has shown no one really have any complaints about the transparent stuff, but early versions of the solid coolant caused some issues. Indiana_Krom posted:I've been running clear EK CryoFuel, for a duration of up to 3 years at a time without changing it and other than topping off the reservoir every 6 months or so, no problems, nothing growing in it, everything looks and performs fine. How much are you topping off? Seems like with even a tiny res, a well buttoned up loop should be good for quite some time even if you never top it off. Now I want to see if I can add a cheap/quick fluid level sensor...
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Jan 6, 2022 02:38
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Indiana_Krom posted:Oh not much at all, my reservoir is 150 ml capacity and I'm only adding about 20-30 ml after ~6 months, the whole loop only holds about 550 ml. It is mostly cosmetic to keep the visible line of coolant inside the cap of the reservoir instead of seeing it down the side a bit. The coolant evaporates through the tubing ever so slowly so topping off is something that will have to be done in pretty much any loop over time. Ahh, got it. I ended up getting the QUADRO -- I think what I will do is put my 3x front fans (360 mm rad) on a splitter / one channel, 2x top (240 mm rad) on another, 1x rear (just exhaust) on the 3rd... and then, for the fourth channel, does it makes sense to run my pump RPM feedback to it for monitoring purposes? Or I could just run the pump tach feedback to my mobo header -- I just really want some SW to let me know if it drops below an alarm threshold and if I'm running the Aquacomputer SW anyways, might as well make it that one. I sort of wish I got the OCTO now, so I have full speed knowledge of each fan, but meh. One on each rad + rear is good enough, and if I wanted to get really weird about it, I'd run my rear fan right off the mobo and then 4/5 of the radiator fans could go right to the OCTO. Or peel off the tach feedback from the split fans, and route to a mobo header... many options. e: The only RGB I've allowed myself is some Phanteks Halo RGB frames in the front for the Noctuas -- I guess the Aquabus RGBpx cable adapter here could be worth it vs. running off the mobo so I can do everything right from Aquasuite. Or use the Asus Aura SW if I want the lights to reflect different states... I guess I'll be tweaking this for awhile. movax fucked around with this message at 01:19 on Jan 8, 2022 |
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Jan 8, 2022 01:17
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The Atomic Man-Boy posted:If all the parts I'm buying have G1/4" holes, what tube size do I want if I get PETG tubes? Do I want compression fittings? Do fittings come with compression rings, or do I have to buy them separately? You can get “whatever” tube size (there are three common ones) as long as the fittings match the ID/OD of the tube. The fitting is the part that mates to the G1/4” interfaces on components and it’s hard to find a modern WC component that does not use G1/4”.
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Jan 14, 2022 17:44
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Am I over-thinking things if I'm worried about the mass of something like this being directly attached to my reservoir via a M-M fitting or similar? Thinking if I just put this in-line from res to pump with an extender on the bottom port, it saves me a bunch of mounting trouble. Also getting some Koolance QDC3s for my top rad, so I can just pop it off and have easy access to the top of the res to fill up. Adding another pair to the tubing run into the CPU WB as well, so I can swap RAM if needed (new sticks and all... I could borrow a SP3 air cooler and bring up the machine before installing all the liquid cooling parts, but what's the fun in that? It looks like they sell both male and female QDCs that have male G1/4" threads -- is there any preference / technical reason to use one over the other? I suppose I could make the inlet/outlet different to prevent any kind of mis-mate but for now I've just planned for female QDCs on the rad and I'll put compression-fit male QDCs on the tubing.
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Jan 18, 2022 03:34
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movax posted:Am I over-thinking things if I'm worried about the mass of something like this being directly attached to my reservoir via a M-M fitting or similar? Thinking if I just put this in-line from res to pump with an extender on the bottom port, it saves me a bunch of mounting trouble. I ended up going with the following (sorry for lovely screengrabs):  So the two sets of components I'm directly coupling to each other are reservoir outlet / flow meter (on the way to pump) and then the pump outlet to front rad (with additional TBD mech support). I accidentally RefDes'd the mates instead of individual connectors but this was my planned QDC usage (I like writing my 'user manuals' as part of design to catch opens): QDC1 (Top Radiator Inlet Service Disconnect) Disconnects top radiator from CPU waterblock outlet. When used with QDC2, allows for removal of top radiator for service (fan cables will need to be disconnected from OCTO as well). QDC2 (Top Radiator Outlet Service Disconnect) Disconnects top radiator from GPU waterblock inlet. When used with QDC1, allows for removal of top radiator for service (fan cables will need to be disconnected from OCTO as well). QDC3 (GPU Inlet Service Disconnect) Disconnects GPU inlet from loop. When used with QDC4, allows for removal of GPU for service. QDC4 (GPU Outlet Service Disconnect) Disconnects GPU outlet from loop. When used with QDC3, allows for removal of GPU for service. QDC5 (CPU Waterblock Inlet Hose Service Disconnect) Disconnects CPU waterblock inlet hose from front radiator outlet. Use to temporarily break connection for access to RAM slots. QDC6 (Reservoir / Flow Meter Outlet Service Disconnect) Disconnects outlet of reservoir / flow meter from loop. Use when removing pump + front-rad assembly for service, or to isolate reservoir from loop. QDC7 (Reservoir Inlet Service Disconnect) Disconnects inlet of reservoir from loop. Use when removing reservoir or to help isolate reservoir from loop. Overkill, but will see what sticks -- it is likely that segments of tubing w/ QDCs on either end are not strictly needed unless that tubing itself needs to be completely removed. All QDCs except QDC5 have female QDCs actually threaded into the component which hopefully makes space constraints a bit easier to deal with. I like this though, because pulling QDC1/QDC2, I can straight up lift the top of my Meshify off and have access to the top of res for filling / other stuff. I had a beer-fueled mounting idea appear too for my D5 pump -- this case is going to be mounted in a holder under my standing desk, so... it doesn't matter if poo poo sticks out below it. I'm going to simply cut a hole in the bottom for the bottom of my D5 to stick through and directly mount its outlet to my bottom rad with a MM rotary extender. I'll use some standoffs or L bracket (TBD) to help support the rest of the pump and then that should be sorted! movax fucked around with this message at 00:46 on Jan 19, 2022 |
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Jan 18, 2022 23:41
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Already found that I hosed up the alignment of the pump and res... I have to say, this process would benefit incredibly if someone sold a cheap-rear end mock set of fittings / hardware (broken, didn't work, etc) to use for test fits and stuff that you could then mail back or send to the next person in line. Either that or everyone puts out accurate STEP models and uses Fusion 360 or SolidWorks.
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Jan 20, 2022 23:54
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movax posted:It looks like they sell both male and female QDCs that have male G1/4" threads -- is there any preference / technical reason to use one over the other? I suppose I could make the inlet/outlet different to prevent any kind of mis-mate but for now I've just planned for female QDCs on the rad and I'll put compression-fit male QDCs on the tubing. Well, they came in and I figured it out... female ones have the ring you pull on them for the disconnect, male end is static. Will still work fine, but I have a few spots now where I have to pull in a slightly awkward direction -- would have been better off putting the female ends on the hoses. Oh well, learned for next one! i should not watercool my NAS
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Jan 23, 2022 02:38
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Oh no! I have to remove RAM / get the radiator out of the way! What do I do!  Honestly not sure if the MVP is the QDCs or the 2x angled 45s, but it is so easy. Bit nervous about the torque on the fittings, but I think when everything is properly installed / buttoned up, it'll be fine. Thinking about getting some anti-kink coils just in case though, for things like that bend on the left. If you're doing a soft tubing run and can afford them... its about $25/pair of them. Compare against the time savings and these are no-brainers. If AMD does actually release a sTRX4 Zen 3 Threadripper, I can probably execute the CPU swap in under 15 minutes with this and not break my loop. e: please forgive the hideous RAM. It was $200 cheaper than the as far as I can tell equivalent other CL14 B-die sets from G. Skill and no one is ever going to see it. e2: That's a ASUS Hyper M.2 card as a length placeholder -- I've left room in this system to allow for every 1) PCIe slot to be used, 2) 2 full length (300 mm) PCIe cards to be populated if need be. Some day it will be a RTX-series GPU, for now it'll be a 1080 + said Hyper M.2 card because you can never have too much storage + god hates wasted PCI Express lanes. Below is a Chelsio 40 GbE NIC and then an Intel quad-port NIC for my point-to-point DUT connection needs. movax fucked around with this message at 23:02 on Jan 24, 2022 |
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Jan 24, 2022 22:54
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AutismVaccine posted:saw the discussion way too late, a few questions: I asked about it a bit earlier in the thread (I think); I do have an Aquacomputer OCTO so I could control it but it seemed like most people just didn't bother with / care about varying pump speed too much. The fittings... well, I thought I needed them, but I could try it again with STCs sticking straight out of it. Is that bend up out of the water block to hit the rad doable without an adapter? I guess I do have the length to burn on it. I do have more adapters below to get the pump lined up and the res, but those are at the bottom of the loop. Any thoughts on suspending a flow meter in a run of soft-tubing? It's either that or a rotary angled 45 holding it. Not sure I'll be able to get the QDC I want in there either, but I'm trying to get the entire front radiator + pump + res assembly to be one unit I can remove/install and easily split from the loop. movax fucked around with this message at 01:35 on Jan 28, 2022 |
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Jan 28, 2022 01:30
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AutismVaccine posted:Is that bend up out of the water block to hit the rad doable without an adapter? Yeah I’ll try it this weekend… there’s probably a ton of room for a bend in there because it’s literally empty space. quote:Any thoughts on suspending a flow meter in a run of soft-tubing? I have it directly attached right now with a double-male and a rotary 2x 45… I need it to swing out of the way of the GPU. I might try an offset rotary fitting. quote:the entire front radiator + pump + res assembly to be one unit I can remove/install and easily split from the loop. Serviceability mostly — I know this is mostly gonna stay together for the next few years but I know I’ll be tweaking poo poo and from my cursory research, flow rate drops with various adapters seem negligible… movax fucked around with this message at 20:00 on Jan 28, 2022 |
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Jan 28, 2022 19:58
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Indiana_Krom posted:The main reason to minimize the number of fittings in a loop isn't because of the increase in flow restriction but because more fittings is an easy way to nickel and dime a loop to over $1000. I think I’m under $300 in fittings… the QDCs were still worth every penny!
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Jan 29, 2022 00:48
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I think my pump might be air locked, in the test setup I have to check things out prior to install. Simple test setup, res -> flow meter -> inlet on Heatkiller D5 Top -> outlet -> rad -> return to reservoir. Shouldn’t cause too many weird things to happen, right? I could see a pump -> res only loop being kinda weird, but the radiator should provide some restriction, right?  I’m pretty sure what I’m hearing is air, or cavitation — plus, when disconnecting the return hose from the res, I get no water moving out of it unless I place it below the pump (i.e., doesn’t seem to be pumping… but is drawing current). Flipping the setup end over end to try and get any bubbles seemed to help a bit (in the sense fluid level on res would drop), but… shouldn’t a D5 be able to easily pump through any air bubbles? Especially if I have the outlet dumping into the sink? At that point its just a water pump flushing through the radiator and into the drain. I found a few threads that have me checking to see if I read the Heatkiller manual backwards on what IN/OUT are, but I’m pretty sure I got it right. Even with those 90s, the pump should always be wet / primed. movax fucked around with this message at 04:32 on Feb 6, 2022 |
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Feb 6, 2022 04:28
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Sure thing! For reference it is the HEATKILLER D5-Top, which as 4 ports (IN1, IN2, OUT1, OUT2) — they recommend IN1/OUT1 for ‘best performance’, but any combination of in/out is valid.  This is what I came up with to get my pump attached to the rad in my case. That’s the outlet at the top of this picture (OUT1 from the D5) attached to the radiator (GTS 360), via a rotary M-M extender. The bottom of the pic is an offset rotary hitting a rotary 90. This then nominally in the loop would go to my CPU block; in this case its just looping back to the res. I hope I don’t have insane vibration issues doing this, but we’ll find out! I’m mounting the radiator to the case through some gaskets / rubber as well. ‘  This is the inlet side (IN1) of the pump. Rotary 90 on the input. All Tygon A-60-G tubing; I used the McMaster EPDM stuff at first / checking lengths, and then cut it to size.  Side view of the res (EK XRES 110) — nominally the port on the left is the inlet / return, the port on the right I am using as the outlet. It hits a rotary 90, the flow meter, and then the pump inlet — unless those adapters are really really hosed up, I believe this should still keep the pump nicely flooded in water. I didn’t have the flow meter / powered yesterday, but yeah, I’m thinking I might just get the OCTO down here, power it up and see if I have a spare USB harness I can use to convert it to a proper plug. In my head, it seems simple — it’s a not pressurized system / boiling point doesn’t matter (unlike a car), so if I run this with the reservoir lid off, the pump should suck in a ton of water, push air out of the rad, into the res where it escapes, while I keep topping off water. E: a very  question… I thought Imgur did sound? I have a few videos of it going / gurgling, but is there somewhere besides YouTube I should upload them…
movax fucked around with this message at 18:54 on Feb 6, 2022 |
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Feb 6, 2022 18:35
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Warmachine posted:The pump top is installed in the correct orientation? I've not worked with D5's, but it's a stab in the dark because yeah I can't think of anything goofy here. I don't see why there wouldn't be enough head pressure to do exactly what you're saying. Maybe tilt it around to encourage the air to move out of the radiator? Again, shouldn't be a problem at all--the pump should have more than enough power to force air bubbles out into the res over a reasonable timeline, and there should be no situation where the pump itself is dry. One of the big advantages of the reservoir on a custom loop over the AIO is that you're not trying to trap the air in the radiator. It all naturally moves to the res over time. Hmmmm — I didn’t think that mattered, since the pump was spherical. (You’re referring to the clocking of the pump itself relative to the pump top, right?) I definitely did rotate it around to optimize where the speed control was, so it wasn’t buried behind that adapter. If you’re referring to the inlets/outlets though, I’ve been staring at this for literally months as I planned the loop slowly in my head… please sanity check and make sure I’m not a dumbass:  I’m like 99.9999999% sure I’ve done that right, just rotate that drawing 90 degrees to the right and that should be it. The IN1 even ends up above the OUT1, so I think that is sane. To my knowledge, I’ve never run this pump dry — the first time I turned it on was yesterday, and I had the res filled up feeding it. My expectation when I disconnected the return line from the res is that it should be shooting a jet of water out of that hose as it drew from the rad. Instead, I get bubbling / gurgling sounds from the pump that lead me to think it is airlocked, “cavitating” (I know its not technically cavitation / people mis-use that all the time). Not sure if audio made it into any of these: https://m.imgur.com/a/zn3wn9y E: Yeah, I don’t see anything specifically called out here, unless there’s an implication somewhere of the text being aligned, but again… spherical pump right? 
movax fucked around with this message at 19:12 on Feb 6, 2022 |
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Feb 6, 2022 19:10
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Indiana_Krom posted:Have you tried blowing through your loop to make sure it isn't blocked? Warmachine posted:This is a good idea, and also if you're worried about air in the pump, you could theoretically just siphon water into the pump. So I'll be heading out for work soon, which will put this project even further behind, but I drained the loop and checked a few bits in isolation: * The pump in isolation, when just feeding it tap water (I'm going to do a DI rinse, don't worry...) and power up, shoots a healthy stream of water from its outlet, so it seems to be working! * A thought occurred to me where the flow meter might be too restrictive on the inlet of the pump... most builds I think go res ---> pump with the lowest impedance possible. But, looking at the inside of it, it doesn't seem very restrictive... I need to upload my videos with sound, because the gurgling / bubbling sounds will probably make the issue screamingly obvious.
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Feb 10, 2022 19:28
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Canna Happy posted:I’d honestly look at the qdc before anything else if the pump is working. Hmm -- I think I've mated/de-mated them all enough, but the loop doesn't hit a QDC until the output of the radiator, and I've tried removing that QDC to see how much water comes flowing out. Next step is testing the rad in isolation and seeing if there's some kinda blockage in there (and hooking up the flow meter).
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Feb 10, 2022 20:38
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