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The EVGA 280mm gets good marks for its stock fans. But as was said, they are all basically the same because most are built by Asetek. Look at Gamers Nexus' reviews, I feel they do the most thorough job.
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Jun 18, 2018 21:00
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Less Fat Luke posted:Anyone have experience with the EVGA 280 CLC? I was sort of holding out on a sale for the Corsair Platinums to try a non-Asetek pump since I've had a couple Krakens die and gave up on things but at 115CDN I feel like it might be worth rolling the dice. Have you watched Gamers Nexus videos on YT or read their reviews? All of the Asetek pumps basically perform the same with the big differences being the version (Corsair, IIRC, has the most recent version of Asetek's pump design), reservoir size, fans, and RGB stuffs. The EVGA 280 one gets solid marks from them, but it's a previous generation design. They (GN) break down the biggest change in the 5 to 6 version (IIRC) is a shift from a plastic to a metal impeller.
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Apr 21, 2019 22:33
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Trip Report Time. WC'ed my desktop over the weekend. Long time coming project. Had years ago sourced a bunch of parts to do a SFF WC in a Ncase M1 and after stripping it down, getting blocks on, realized it would be pretty difficult. So I shelved it. Fast forward, my current desktop uses a NZXT H700, so more space. Stripped off a Noctua D-15 and a reference design cooler (sorta) off a 2080 ti (EVGA Black). Main driver was getting the GPU's noise under control. Had to purchase some additional things. Went with a new CPU block for nickel plating (using liquid metal between the cpu and it), new GPU (so new block), bigger rads because have the space, some fans, additional tubing, and mounting bracket for pump assembly. Performance PCs had the stuff I needed, but man their website sucks. Monsoon's soft tube compression fittings suck with EK's ZMT tubing (16/10mm). Use some dish soap the unthreaded side of the compression piece otherwise you'll fight with the tube friction in addition to pushing the compression piece down and trying to get on the threads of the barb. Additionally, Bitspower's D5 MOD top pump housing, it kinda sucks for how the inlet and outlet ports are laid out. One side has an in and out, but they are too close if you use any other than the narrowest fittings. Ended up using the outlet and a temp probe for the inlet port on that side with a the inlet on the opposite with just barely enough space between the 90 degree fitting and the mounting bracket. Mounted the pump/reservoir assembly to the front radiator. Used Watercool's HEATKILLER blocks for the CPU and GPU, delidded direct die 9900kf and a reference model 2080 ti. Two Hardware Labs 360GTS radiators. Arctic P12 PWM PST fans. Waiting on a Noctua 120x15 fan for the back of the case for exhaust as a 25mm doesn't work with the top mount rads ports. Loop under sustain load stabilizes out at 44 degrees C (about 15 degrees over ambient) with the CPU staying around 55 and the gpu around 55 as well. The pump speed and fan speeds are kept lowish for noise purposes. Both the CPU and GPU are overclocked, the CPU at 5ghz and no AVX offset, and the GPU unfortunately is a non-A part so max power limit is 124%. Fun times, one hand still hurts from the drat fittings.
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Apr 28, 2020 23:39
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Theophany posted:An easy way around those GPU power limits if you've got that kind of watercooling is to flash a power delimited or voltage unlocked BIOS, especially since you have a reference card. I did it with my 980 Ti and later my 1080 Ti and got much better overclocks once heat is no longer a concern. It's especially easy with Pascal onwards as Afterburner will automatically fine tune the voltage, power and clocks. Overclock.net have an excellent thread filled with information for this exact purpose: https://www.overclock.net/forum/69-nvidia/1706276-official-nvidia-rtx-2080-ti-owner-s-club.html  I did that yesterday. My card despite being a reference board it has a non A chip, so the highest power limit bios available is the one from Palit at 124%, stock one was 112%. It's a shame as the board seems decently strong: the memory is Samsung and I'm holding a 1 GHz OC on it for 16 GHz and the GPU itself can take a +180 core OC without a sweat. It just hits that 124% very easily in the 2040-2085 range. Have tried a static bump as well as a custom voltage/boost curve. Oh well, it's good enough. No sense trying to chase down say a EVGA XC or other similar card (300A chip based reference) for like 1% more frames. Thanks for the detailed reply.
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Apr 29, 2020 13:28
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DrDork posted:Yeah, once you rip the HSF off it the FE PCB is only about 2/3 the length of the overall unit. Most of the AIBs have something closer to a "full length" PCB. GN did a tear down of it like the day embargo lifted. It’s a well populated PCB. I wonder how waterblock support is going to shake out this round as a lot of partners used the reference PCB for 2080 (ti) for their non premium versions. It’s not to say they haven’t done PCB specific blocks like for say the FTW or Strix cards, just that from a market standpoint a whole lot of reference PCB based cards were made for that generation.
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Oct 8, 2020 15:28
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Warmachine posted:I don't think I've worked with bare PCB memory in years, but as I recall underneath the heat spreader it's all pretty samey. PCB size and layout can vary. There’s multiple standard formats A0, A1, A2, as well what you see with things like the Dominator sticks. With normal modules you see the placement of the chips depending on the layout. https://www.guru3d.com/index.php?ct=articles&action=file&id=60338 if this doesn’t work, then half way down the page of this article https://www.guru3d.com/articles-pages/dram-calculator-for-ryzen-1-7-1-%E2%80%93-what-is-new,1.html Edit: This article has a picture of a bare dominator PCB. https://thepcenthusiast.com/corsair-dominator-platinum-rgb-ddr4-memory-review/ There have been a number of revisions to the dominator PCB as well. Be careful with removing the heat sinks from your ram op goon. Decent chance of ripping an IC off. I’ve seen a couple techniques: use a heat gun or huck the stick into a bucket of LN2 which will break the glue bond. The Electronaut fucked around with this message at 21:47 on Feb 27, 2021 |
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Feb 27, 2021 21:34
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Warmachine posted:Alright, I've put together and taken apart this loop about 4 times now, and I keep running into the same annoyance: It's really hard to fit the locking ring over the compression fittings, get it to catch the thread, and then get it tight enough on the fitting. I found dish soap helped a ton with ZMT and the fittings which are also compression I used in my loop.
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Mar 22, 2021 22:53
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Theophany posted:A random musing, but years ago there was a company called Monsoon that made rather ornate fittings that came with a tool that you inserted into the collar of the compression fittings to twist them onto the barb. Ya they suck with ZMT, I have them as part of my loop. In hindsight, I wish I didn’t. I too had some finger pain for a week or so after, it felt very similar to the injury I got when my thumb hyperextended during a cycling crash. Next loop cycle I plan to replace them.
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Mar 23, 2021 14:40
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sarr posted:I recently finished my PC project. I love ZMT and have zero regrets about skipping hard tubing. I really liked the optimus cpu block as well, so smooth. O11 … Dynamic? The pump on that distro is a DDC type right? I like the way this build came out, congrats.
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May 7, 2021 17:11
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Theophany posted:Turns out heatspreaders they put on RAM these days loving suck to take off. I miss the old days where it was two clips instead of literal glue that needs to be cooked off My favorite way of seeing them removed: https://youtu.be/nvRv-8qY-CE
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May 22, 2021 13:37
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Changing out mobos and cpus this weekend and it’ll be a loop tear down and flush. Keeping an eye on reservoir, the fluid has stayed clean. Changing out these pain in the rear end Monsoon compression fittings for some barbs and clamps going forward. Also, only had to buy a 20 dollar conversion kit for my cpu block. Watercool Heatkiller IV Intel 115x currently and going to AM4.
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Nov 30, 2021 21:55
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The Electronaut posted:Changing out mobos and cpus this weekend and it’ll be a loop tear down and flush. Keeping an eye on reservoir, the fluid has stayed clean. Welp, did this today. Took longer than expected, but why did I screw around with these compression fittings? Barbs + clamps is so pain free.
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Dec 6, 2021 03:28
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