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Oh hi watercooling thread! I just finished a watercooled build thats been scratching the back of my mind for a year or two now and I decided to make the plunge. I held off on custom loop watercooling for a while as the last time I was looking at the investment a few years back I didn't really think the parts quality was there, but these days the good gear is pretty loving good. I used a Corsair H100i for a while and that held me over until madness took over and i went in deep with an all EK system. I bought the EK P240 kit off amazon and added a PE480 rad and some more fittings, and recently I just got my MSI Sea Hawk EK X 1070. I'm pretty happy how it came out, it was a stupid amount of money but doing a stupid overkill build for fun was a lot of the point. To support some statements others have made ITT, the D5 pump even at 100% speed is almost completely silent. As in even if you get your ear right up next to it you might not think it is on and working. Also, a good custom loop setup can have its fans run at ~800rpm even when your CPU and GPU are at 100% utilization and that is pretty close to silent. 
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Aug 16, 2016 00:13
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I LIKE TO SMOKE WEE posted:Nice! Do you think we'll ever see self-contained/all-in-one units that are as pretty as this? The transparency is very cool (They might already exist I haven't really looked since I built) Well, it depends on what you want to consider comparable. The EKWB Predator system is pretty close, its expandable with pre-made "blocks" of pre-filled/fitted components you can get from the EKWB web store and uses fairly good, but not the "best" components. You could also build your own expansion blocks by ordering and building the components yourself. However, at this point you are building a custom loop but you are retaining some of tradeoffs the predator system and the pricing is fairly close to one of their custom loop kits. The Predator 240 system is fairly close in both price and features to an EKWB L240 kit. However, in my opinion, if you plan on building an expanded system you would be better served by getting a EKWB P-series kit instead of the L series as you are getting the better water block and a quiter pump with better mounting options. Here is my opinion on a decision point for predator vs custom loop kit. Chose the predator if you are going for a small setup in a case with not a lot of watercooling mounting options. The 240 is sufficient for a CPU alone at fairly low noise level but would get a bit noisy with a GPU in the loop, while the 360 should be able to handle a CPU and GPU at low-moderate noise level. Adding additional pumps/radiators seems a little silly vs going custom loop to begin with, but I suppose its certainly possible without having to replace anything. Chose the EKWB kit if you have room in your case for a more expansive setup, want to expand more down the road / tweak the hell out of your system or if you want to get your noise level very, very low.
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Aug 16, 2016 18:43
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Yes, you don't want to split your watercooling loop into multiple paths.
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Aug 18, 2016 18:00
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Kaleidoscopic Gaze posted:Heyall, I'm doing some early research on water cooling for a future setup. Get an EKWB kit. The L series if you want something basic and low cost or the P series if you want to build something high performance. The pricing is pretty good and EKWBs gear is pretty solid.
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Aug 30, 2016 17:03
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Kaleidoscopic Gaze posted:I'm currently building a setup where my motherboard is in the HVAC supply duct in the wall and I alternate between AC and furnace+humidifier combo, so as to take advantage of an evaporative cooling effect Hot new trend from Corsair, Thermaltake, and Inwin: The DuctCase! Attach your PC to your central or underfloor HVAC! Just remove in wintertime!
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Sep 3, 2016 02:24
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Kaleidoscopic Gaze posted:A combination of immersion cooling and phase-change cooling: Your motherboard is mounted in a pressure vessel, and you have your central AC condenser funneling liquid freon into the chamber, where hot components cause it to evaporate. To cool off the increased heat load to your main AC condenser there is this sophisticated heatsink with large copper heat pipes and an array of 20 120mm fans to give you top performance. If you seek extreme performance it can be further upgraded with a full blown 5 ton 20 seer AC unit to cool off the other AC unit circulating freon inside the pressure vessel.
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Sep 3, 2016 03:27
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The corsair ml120s (which I have and have also had Vardars) also don't have bearing noise so they are much quieter at sub 1000rpm where you don't hear the noise of the airflow
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Sep 10, 2016 03:29
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PerrineClostermann posted:I imagine it's not nice to your wallet. Watercooling.jpg Ml120s in the 2 pack cost less than the ER vardars and about the same as the normal ones
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Sep 10, 2016 17:23
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Reminder: don't use prime95 as it's all SSE accelerated and causes a small part of the COU to get to like 90c. Intel Xtreme Tuning Utility has a good load test
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Oct 2, 2016 19:15
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Don Lapre posted:Unless you are going to use apps that use them. There are no apps that are going to ever behave like the prime95 test on a modern CPU
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Oct 2, 2016 20:46
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PerrineClostermann posted:Welp. Ordered the parts for my 6 month flush/upgrade. Adding on to an EKWB L360 kit, into a Corsair Air 540 case. You are missing the back on the 1070 waterblock. If you don't have the 1070 yet get the MSI Sea Hawk EK X. The PCB was designed with the waterblock in mind so its basically the best card and the price is good too. Additionally, the newer Corsair ML120s are way, way, way better than the SP120s both from a performance and noise perspective. They are hands down the best 120mm fans you can get.
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Nov 27, 2016 03:23
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PerrineClostermann posted:The back? As in a backplate? I already have an EVGA SC 1070, which comes with a backplate already. Should I have ordered the EKWB backplate then? You mean 3 dollars more expensive https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Premium-Magnetic-Levitation-2-Pack/dp/B01G5I6MRK
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Nov 27, 2016 03:36
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PerrineClostermann posted:...What the gently caress, Performance PCs. Nothing useful, it's all black and has removable rubber corners.
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Nov 27, 2016 03:46
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PerrineClostermann posted:Huh. Well, alright then. What mobo? I have an 8 fan pwm splitter that pulls power from a psu lead and signal from the mobo. I use the excellent Asus thermal radar 2 to control it based off some inline temp sensors.
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Nov 27, 2016 03:55
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PerrineClostermann posted:drat. Looks like only the CPU fan header is PWM. CHA_FAN1 just ties it to 5v, which I presume is equivalent to a 100% duty cycle. My CPU_FAN header supports 1A. How much power do fans drain? Is there an adapter that lets my fans run off my PSU while co-opting the CPU PWM signal? Check your BIOS, a lot of Asus motherboards let you select PWM vs DC per header. Otherwise you need an adapter like this cheap and small one: https://www.amazon.com/Splitter-Mol...+splitter+molex Also, if you are talking about the ML120s, you can do 2 of them on one mobo header safely, they are pretty power efficient.
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Nov 27, 2016 05:56
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PerrineClostermann posted:Hmm. Well, I'm doing some math here. My pump is an EKWB pump res combo, using a DDC 3.1. They don't list this normally, as it's only available in their kits, and I'm not sure what the power draw is. I've seen a few generic figures for DDC 3.1s of about 10w, which would put it at 834 mA current. My header is rated for 1A, and I'm currently running two 3pin fans on the same header. A few things 1: Your DDC isn't drawing power from the header, it should be drawing power from your PSU with an RPM sensor / PWM signal to adjust duty cycle on the pump. 2: Do you need your DDC to run at a lower duty cycle? I don't know how loud those things are but my EK D5 PWM is so quiet that even at max speed its pretty much inaudible. 3: I'm not sure if the PWR_FAN has special significance on your mobo, typically only the CPU_FAN is required before mobos decide to take control and shut down if there is no RPMs coming through, but not always. If this is the case then you could: Leave your DDC unhooked and run at full speed, get a PWM fan splitter and hook up your rad fans to the CPU_FAN fan header and control them with PWM and run your two case fans off the two CHA_FAN1/2 headers and get DC rpm control. In the future, look for an Asus motherboard that has a lot of fan headers and supports thermal radar / fanxpert like a TUF. Thermal Radar is a pretty fantastic fan control system that you can tie fan curves to all kinds things including hybrid metrics. Cheaper than an aquero by a bit. rage-saq fucked around with this message at 09:20 on Nov 27, 2016 |
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Nov 27, 2016 09:17
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Collateral Damage posted:Thought experiment, how viable would a water cooled system that trades a radiator for a large buffer tank be for a system that's only on for a couple of hours per day? Expensive and pointless. Full stop.
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Jan 23, 2017 02:36
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Found a tiny drip of water coming off my CPU water block, an EKWB Suprrmacy Evo with an acetyl top, sigh. Also, the water and everything is a bit brown and I just cleaned this thing from a gross infection a month ago. After cleaning everything pretty thoroughly I replaced the tubes and ran primochill sysprep for a day and then filled with primochill utopia. After emptying the loop the water looks clear but there's a brownish film on everything. I don't really see anything in the fins or small places algae would grow. Anyone have any ideas what this might be? I've got two EKWB rads, the EKWB copper/acetyl cpu block and a main seahawk ek x (Nickel plated copper block)
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Feb 4, 2017 18:44
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rage-saq posted:Found a tiny drip of water coming off my CPU water block, an EKWB Suprrmacy Evo with an acetyl top, sigh. I took some stuff apart and it's like a brown powder, rubs off instantly
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Feb 4, 2017 19:52
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Primoflex advanced lrt clear
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Feb 4, 2017 21:01
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I just discovered these monsoon free center compression fittings are silver plated, barf! That sucks because otherwise they were awesome. I'm getting some replacement fittings and then I'll scrub down my nickle plates and do some rinses.
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Feb 5, 2017 18:53
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PerrineClostermann posted:So am interaction between silver and nickel caused this? My best guess, while replacing my waterblock due to the cracked top I took a good look at everything and it's definitely not microbial growth. I'm sure if I leave things as is they get a lot worse so I'll be replacing things pretty quick.
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Feb 5, 2017 19:25
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  Easiest to see here, but this was also in my tubes and resevoir, where it wiped off pretty easily. Just draining my coolant (1 month old utopia+DI) and putting in some sysprep+DI has reduced it. When I broke down my system the other day I pulled 4 of these 6 Monsoon fittings, I'm waiting for 2 more nickle fittings to come in and then I'll work on cleaning everything up. rage-saq fucked around with this message at 23:24 on Feb 5, 2017 |
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Feb 5, 2017 23:14
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well why not posted:Well, he had a lot of help. Linus' practical skills are very, very hit & miss. Like the whole room water cooling project to try to reduce the temp of the room from all the PCs, so they use copper pipes lol
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Feb 20, 2017 03:05
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Don Lapre posted:Lemon juice will clean the copper up nice. But don't use anything acidic on the nickel. My EKWB MSI 1070 water block got a little oxidized after a month of having some Monsoon fittings that were silver plated, I scrubbed it all out with a tooth brush and some distilled water and replaced the fittings with normal all-nickel kind. Its fine now.
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Mar 3, 2017 08:00
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xorex posted:Watercooling noob here. I'm changing out my case and cooling and am planning my first custom loop. I used the EK configurator as a start point and came out with this: I would recommend the EKWB P360 kit, it's got everything you need to setup a CPU water lock with a 360 radiator. The PE 360 radiator is 38mm thick, so you'll want to see what people have been able to fit in custom loop builds in that case. A cursory search on google shows some builds with 360s in the front no problem, though I don't know what rad they were using. If you want to buy separates or reuse your fans or something I would still buy the EKWB EVO Supremacy Waterblock, and EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM pump/res combo. Hey are both really great and reliable pieces at a good cost. Some superior fans (quieter AND better performing) would be the corsair ml120s and a slimmer (and better performing) rad would be a black ice nemesis 360 GTS that's 29.5mm thick. You would still need to buy some fittings, tubing, and coolant additive.
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Mar 18, 2017 18:47
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xorex posted:I did look at the EK kit with the slim radiator initially. I don't need fans though as I will only have room for the radiator on top of the Corsair SP120 RGB fans that came with the case. I don't really want to use different fans since the case comes with a fan/lighting controller that apparently only works with those specific fans. The width I have for a radiator with the PSU shroud is about the width of a fan, which is why I like the EK-CoolStream SE 360. I could go thicker without the PSU shroud, but I wasn't planning on replacing the PSU just yet (there would be a mess of cables showing). I'll take measurements when I get a chance, maybe that black ice nemesis 360 GTS would work. Do you have the case already? Looking at the 460x more it looks like its not going to be the most optimal case for a custom loop, you want a decent amount of room to pull it off and it looks really cramped, even if you pull the second bottom shroud. There doesn't appear to be much in the way of clearance for a 360 rad in the front and using both bottom shrounds, even using low profile ones. It barely looks like there is clearance for your standard 25mm fans, most people who are doing a custom loop in that and are using both bottom shrouds appear to be using a 240 rad and putting the pump/res over the PSU. GPU clearance looks like it also could be a challenge if you have any rads in front. There is the slightly bigger 570x that wouldn't have such problems. The 460x is 440mm x 220mm x 464mm while the 570x is 480mm x 234mm x 512mm which is not a huge difference externally, but internally it makes all the parts a lot easier to fix. I would HIGHLY recommend it if you are trying to fit larger water cooling parts.
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Mar 18, 2017 22:35
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xorex posted:Yea, I have the case. I wanted something smaller and knew it would be more difficult and wouldn't be ideal for a first timer. I measured, and there is 31mm clearance for a radiator between the front case fans and the shroud. There's a decent of clearance for a radiator with the 1070, especially one 25-30mm. It is actually more problematic to put a radiator on top due to the setup bumping in to the RAM. There aren't that many examples to go off of unfortunately, and none with a pump/res where I was considering placing it. I did see someone do that with a 570x build, which actually gave me the idea, but the loop was much more complicated overall (the pump was separate mounted just off the radiator, there were two rads, and there were GPUs was in the loop). Really if you aren't willing to remove the second shroud and mount your pump/res combo there you are going to be better off with an AIO. That case doesn't have many other mounting options for the pump. A 240 rad for the CPU is more than sufficient, so getting a 360 AIO would be a bit of a waste since it wouldn't be future expandable and it will just be more hassle to fit. You don't want to use a rad without matching sized fans.
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Mar 19, 2017 01:48
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Sea hawk best hawk. 
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May 19, 2017 09:16
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VulgarandStupid posted:Probably just a EVGA 1080Ti SC. Don't you have a custom loop? The Sea Hawk 1080ti came out last week, pricing on it is much better than the original pricing for the Sea Hawk 1070/1080, not much of a delta over good AIBs.
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May 19, 2017 17:50
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VulgarandStupid posted:My case has no fan mounts. None. Whoops, I didn't specify, I meant the Sea Hawk 1080ti EK came out last week, I got mine in on Wednesday. Its not very useful if you don't have a custom loop. 
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May 19, 2017 21:21
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VulgarandStupid posted:Or places to mount fans or radiators. Well, that would imply you don't have a custom loop. You might not have any spots to mount more fans or radiators because all the spots were filled with fans and radiators. You didn't specify either way and you were posting in the water cooling thread so I misinterpreted what you saying by posting about the EVGA being a good card for waterblocks etc thinking you may have had a custom loop already. Sorry for the confusion. It was also a good excuse for me to show off my awesome new 1080ti
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May 19, 2017 22:43
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Yeah don't use prime95, it uses some operations that have been extremely accelerated and causes major temperature spikes that are completely unrealistic for load testing. The intel xtreme tuning utility has a good CPU and memory load test built in that are much better for this purpose.
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Jul 9, 2017 02:23
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Prescription Combs posted:I wanna see that with my 'Lime Green'(piss color) coolant. Hey man, thats just ECTO COOLER.
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Jul 19, 2017 05:21
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PerrineClostermann posted:Thermaltake is aluminum parts iirc, so avoid them if you are going to mix brands. I just went EKWB for my loop, it's been pretty great so far. EKWB is pretty great and their P series kits are comprised of quality parts you will want to keep for good. https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-kit-p360
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Aug 6, 2017 19:18
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New Zealand can eat me posted:Just wanted to stop by and say that I too have preordered a 1950X and will be watching what you nerds do closely so that I can copy. AIOs no longer satisfy me, I need to go deeper EKWB will have one out on TR launch. I would make sure you have some good radiators to go with it too.
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Aug 8, 2017 16:46
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repiv posted:EK announced their Threadripper blocks, shipping on the 18th. Anyone surprised that EKWB hits it out of the park on launch date? Not I, they rock. I think this makes them the only vendor that has a waterblock that actually covers the entire TR die, including the ones that will ship from AMD. It will be interesting to see the cooling performance differences as I don't know that there has ever been a situation where such a large hot chip came out and existing solutions that ship for the product have such a serious design flaw.
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Aug 10, 2017 15:22
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Actually take a look at the Corsair ML120s, they are the poo poo and actually unseat the gentle typhoon as the perf/noise king. Thermalbench is about the only one doing solid reviews on this kind of stuff anymore and their testing is what sold me: http://thermalbench.com/2016/07/12/corsair-ml120-pro-120-mm-fan/3/
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Aug 28, 2017 09:08
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What is your water temp and what is your CPU/GPU temp?
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Sep 15, 2017 05:49
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kirtar posted:Intake temp: 26.1 Hm. Do you have other CPU sensors? I'm not familiar with the array that Ryzen has, I know on Intels there are a bunch and some of them are not the most accurate representation of the temp. Do you have a hot side (pre-radiator) temp? If your hot side of the water cooling loop is too high of a delta (more than 1.5-2c) from the cold side you might not have enough pump power. Anecdotal experience time! If I do a full load test (intel xtreme tuning utility load test + furmark) my 4690K @ 4.6ghz @ 1.19v max's at about 56c while the 1080ti @ 2066mhz @ 1.075v hits about 66c with like an hour of thermal load. I don't recall inlet/water cooling temp at that time but its usually around 36c.
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Sep 15, 2017 06:44
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