CyberPingu posted:

So I'm going to embark on a custom loop setup using the Corsair 5000D


Any tips for a first time custom loop? Are the EK kits worth it at all as I'm a bit overwhelmed with all the bits needed

Specifically something like this

https://www.overclockers.co.uk/ek-water-blocks-ek-quantum-power-d-rgb-p360-high-performance-watercooling-kit-wc-9z1-ek.html


My only foray into water-cooling in the past has been with AIOs

movax posted:

18 AWG will be a tough crimp in those contacts for most families; even 20 can be pushing it for some (there are a few TE part numbers that work OK); I use Harwin M20s for most of my 100mil signaling wiring needs.

Just found the Quadro in stock, and went with a Watercool D5 pump. Stocking my cart at EK now with fittings (Quantum HDC) and some acrylic tubing. Since my case has no windows, I’m just going matte black for all the fittings with gold / nickel rings to do inlet vs outlet at a glance.

Now, just need a res — what’s the smallest one folks like to use with the biggest variety of brackets / options for mounting? Think I’ll place it right above the pump inlet.

Indiana_Krom posted:

It would do it, but I wouldn't expect particularly good performance out of it.

Compare the volume/surface area on the radiator to the volume/surface area of the conventional heat pipe coolers it would replace to get a proper perspective. Radiators aren't magically better than air coolers, the reason they usually perform better is because they can be absurdly gigantic and placed somewhere with more direct access to cold air without a loss of performance compared to their conventional heat sink / pipe counterparts since the heat is actively forced all the way through them by the pump.

Broken Machine posted:

There aren't many afaik, but there is the bolt by digital storm. I'm not sure exactly how they ran that, but it's all liquid cooled and custom runs, includes the gpu. They also had another as well, the spark but it never went to retail.

I'm looking for a basic 120mm aio that will fit in the silverstone sg13, so just one fan. Any thread suggestions? I'd prefer blingless so no rgb

movax posted:

movax posted:

I asked about it a bit earlier in the thread (I think); I do have an Aquacomputer OCTO so I could control it but it seemed like most people just didn't bother with / care about varying pump speed too much.

The fittings... well, I thought I needed them, but I could try it again with STCs sticking straight out of it. Is that bend up out of the water block to hit the rad doable without an adapter? I guess I do have the length to burn on it. I do have more adapters below to get the pump lined up and the res, but those are at the bottom of the loop.

Any thoughts on suspending a flow meter in a run of soft-tubing? It's either that or a rotary angled 45 holding it. Not sure I'll be able to get the QDC I want in there either, but I'm trying to get the entire front radiator + pump + res assembly to be one unit I can remove/install and easily split from the loop.

VelociBacon posted:

pump is at steady state 65% speed (I didn't appreciate any differences from 50% to 100% speed and it's audible over 70%), and the radiator fans spin up to keep max load coolant temps at 40C.

Indiana_Krom posted:

Just a random thought here, but how deep into the housings do your fittings thread in? Is it possible the threads are actually bottoming out on something and causing it to restrict the flow? A D5 at full speed is ridiculously fast in my experience, it should draw down a reservoir that size in less than a second. Also if you have any quick connect fittings in the lines make sure they are actually properly mated, because they generally cut off the flow if they aren't completely locked together.

SpartanIvy posted:

From my surface level engagement of the water cooling community it's that they can't afford them but spin it like they don't want to buy them in the first place.

EKWB makes mostly high quality and very nice looking hardware but its functionality is usually identical to competitors that are down to half the price for some things.

It's a premium option, for sure, and the have-nots get real mad about it existing.

When I put together my system with a mix of parts, the EKWB parts and fittings ~just worked~ which was nice. If I had to do it all again I'd probably go all in with EKWB.

PoizenJam posted:

MOBO is still safe and NVME run just fine at the temps. The PCH seems to run hotter in this config though... About 82C.

Charles Leclerc posted:

I was with you until the no true scotsman poo poo at the end. You can take something seriously and not feel compelled to min/max if your needs are straightforward.

Nolgthorn posted:

My case offers two mounting positions for the radiator the right one there's a thing there that holds the side on. But there's not enough room on the left one either because of the components on the motherboard.

This is a nightmare. I feel like I'm in hell, who water-cools their system?

VelociBacon posted:

That's absolutely not going to effect cooling performance.

VelociBacon posted:

If you haven't already swapped cases just unplug the power pin headers and put your reset button pins onto them.

To actually answer your question I'm pretty sure any d5 has the ability to provide that flow and plenty more.

Desuwa posted:

alphacool MSI 4090 blocks

Solumin posted:

Can I get a sanity check on my new build?
My current PC has a custom loop, but I'm switching to AiO for the new one because it's less hassle to build and easier to maintain.

CPU: Intel Core i7-13700K + Deepcool LT520 (3x120 mm)
Graphics: Gigabyte AORUS XTREME WATERFORCE GeForce RTX 4080 (3x120, built-in AiO)
Case: Phanteks Enthoo EVOLV ATX Mid-Tower

The case can support 3x120 on top, 3x120 in front, and 1x120 (or 1x140) in back. I'm thinking of putting the graphics card in front with the fans set to intake, the CPU up top with fans set to exhaust, and the fan in rear as more exhaust.
Does that all make sense?