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ilkhan posted:What are the pros and cons of going (EVGA RTX3080 XC3 or founders edition RTX3080) + aftermarket waterblock (EK probably) vs an EVGA RTX 3080 Hydrocopper? Pros of going FE + waterblock is that you're gonna get the smallest footprint possible. Pros of going XC3 + waterblock is EVGA is a super nice company to deal with RMAs for. Otherwise seems inferior to the FE in every way (larger, lower quality parts, and more expensive). But if you were early on the email notification list, you might be able to score an XC3 earlier than a FE. Pros of going Hydrocopper is it's the lowest-effort option, since it's pre-installed. Downside of going FE + waterblock is waiting for the waterblock to actually be sold. Downside of going XC3 + waterblock is either you lose the backplate (the $699 edition doesn't have one), or you're paying more than for the FE. Downside of the Hydrocopper is, as noted, potential flow issues (yet to be seen), and the fact that it right now has no release date whatsoever, so who knows when it'll actually hit the market, or at what price. In the past, EVGA Hydrocopper cards have had RGB lighting controllable through Precision X1.
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Oct 7, 2020 19:40
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ilkhan posted:I didn't realize the founders edition was a smaller card, that is very good info, thank you. I'm not any particular hurry so I may just wait for the hydro copper Yeah, once you rip the HSF off it the FE PCB is only about 2/3 the length of the overall unit. Most of the AIBs have something closer to a "full length" PCB. Getting the HSF off the FE looks to take a little more effort than the AIBs, but still seems entirely doable as long as you don't rush it when you're removing the ribbon cables.
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Oct 8, 2020 14:27
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The Electronaut posted:GN did a tear down of it like the day embargo lifted. It’s a well populated PCB. I wonder how waterblock support is going to shake out this round as a lot of partners used the reference PCB for 2080 (ti) for their non premium versions. It’s not to say they haven’t done PCB specific blocks like for say the FTW or Strix cards, just that from a market standpoint a whole lot of reference PCB based cards were made for that generation. I think the answer is they're gonna need to go the way EK has gone and offer a "this will fit a lot of cards" block and then a bunch of card-specific blocks. Even without a true "reference" design, there's still a general layout that many boards have gone with, so compatibility isn't complete trash. But, yeah, you're gonna have to pay a little more attention to what block you're buying this time. I really want to see someone slap an AIO on one, though. It looks like the mounting holes have narrowed slightly compared to previous generations, so something like the G12 will need a new mounting bracket to fit. I'm very curious to see if the GDDR6X actually needs significant cooling, or if just sticking on some aluminum heatsinks with good airflow / a 120mm fan pointed vaguely at the area will be enough.
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Oct 8, 2020 15:34
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sean10mm posted:Is there a 240mm AIO that would realistically cool a 5800X better than an NH-U14S in terms of temps vs noise? Yes and no. If you've got a large, well ventilated case, then a NH-U14S is going to perform pretty well and be hard to meaningfully top. If you've got a smaller case, poor ventilation or some other oddity going on (like a SFF), then chances are very good that the AIO is going to be considerably better in both temps and noise. The problem with talking about noise is that it's not really the fans you need to worry about : you can generally run AIO fans slower than on even the large Noctua coolers and get comparable thermal performance. But pump noise is often something that gets overlooked or not measured--some AIOs are lot worse than others; generally you want one with an adjustable / variable speed, rather than a constant speed, if you're super concerned about noise. It'll also heavily depend on your case and setup: I've had an AIO with audible pump noise when on an open bench or whatever, but as soon as I closed the door on the case it was entirely absorbed by the case and other low-end noise. Basically YMMV considerably.
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Nov 16, 2020 23:01
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Cloner of the Elks posted:It's a drain port, yeah. The radiator is at the bottom of the case, though Then you're not going to be able to drain very much through it. You'll basically be able to drain out whatever's above it, so by the looks of it your pump/res. The rest of the tubing and the rad will remain filled unless you tip the entire thing on its side (which may very well be the easiest option).
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Nov 18, 2020 17:02
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PIZZA.BAT posted:I'm looking at rebuilding my rig soon and am going to finally be doing away with my full tower and adopting SFF. I'm looking at Sliger cases and it looks like if I want to get *really* compact I'm limited to a 92mm AIO vs 240mm for some of their slightly larger cases. How much of a difference does this make? From my limited research it looks like the 92mm radiators are able to hold up just fine but I want to make sure I'm not missing anything If you're going Zen3 (and you should be) a 92mm AIO will be more than enough to keep it cool. I think people tend to over-estimate the heat output of things sometimes, and as Warmachine said, the difference between a 120mm and a 240mm is often like 5C, and frankly who cares about that unless it's running right up against a thermal throttle (and it won't be)? Like there is absolute no reason to care about your CPU having a load temp of 70C instead of 65C. It just doesn't matter. The NR200 is a thread darling for a reason, though, so unless you really want the smallest case available, it's an excellent all around choice that won't have you hating yourself while you try to figure out how the hell you're going to route cables or whatever.
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Dec 1, 2020 15:44
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Nomyth posted:Crossposting this from the GPU thread, I'm especially interested in the concern about separating a GPU loop from a CPU loop, because I'd prefer to keep rad fan speeds way way down: Honestly fan noise is not likely to be a major issue unless you have poo poo fans or sit with the case right next to your head for some reason. The bigger noise complaint is likely to be the pump. You don't even need to passive-cool the CPU, you can get efficient, low-RPM fan setups like ones on offer from Noctura that are effectively silent at pretty much everything short of benchmark / torture test loads.
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Dec 1, 2020 19:38
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Nomyth posted:Ah, I misspoke. By passively cooling CPU I mean completely taking the CPU out of the loop altogether and using a (mostly) passive cooler on it, and dedicating all the radiator space in a case to GPU. You could get most of what you want (within reason) out of a 240mm rad for the 3090. Adding the CPU into the loop and maybe a 360mm rad would be kinda worth it, but probably borderline. You really don't need nearly as much surface area what you see out of some of the crazy YT "pro" builds if you just want it to work and aren't out to make either some aesthetic statement or try to get as close to ambient as you possibly can (which is all just dickwaving). I mean you really don't have a whole lot of options here, honestly. A passive or near-passive GPU cooler for the performance you want simply doesn't exist, and if it did it'd be about the size of a mid-tower case except just made out of aluminum fins. Air cooling is going to be too loud. So get a PWM-enabled CLC (at least until NZXT updates the G12 to support Ampere, at which point an AIO isn't a bad ideal) with 240mm or more worth of rads, throw either Arctic's P12 or Noctura A12x25 fans on there at whatever the max RPM is before you can hear them (somewhere between 500-800 RPM, probably). Undervolt the GPU to bring it down to ~300W. As long as the GPU is sitting under 80C while loaded, you're fine. For the CPU, assuming you're going with something reasonable like a 5600X, you could get a Noctura D15 for the lowest noise, or a U12S that's half the price and probably will end up performing the same in practice for you. Again tune the fan curve 'till you cannot hear it. As long as the CPU is staying under 80-85C while loaded, you're fine. Or you could throw the CPU under water, too, for around the same price as the D15. Might want the larger rad at that point if your case fits it. Also make sure your case is decently sized in the first place and still has at least one intake and exhaust fan (use more P12's or Nocturas) that can also be tuned to below your audible threshold. Mesh or "high airflow" cases are not what you want, since those will allow more of the pump / fan noise out and aren't really needed for a CLC plan. Grab some noise-dampening sheets and plaster them to the interior of the case as much as you reasonably can. You also need to seriously consider the PSU you're selecting, as with the above setup it'll likely be the loudest part of your system when not under load. I'm honestly not sure what a good "silent" option is for the ~700W unit you'd be needing. Will it hit 20dB? Probably not. Is your room probably louder than 20dB anyhow? Almost certainly. Also is there a reason you can't turn your computer off / put it to sleep at night? Unless it's loaded 24/7 there's no reason it should be making enough noise to bother you sleeping. DrDork fucked around with this message at 23:16 on Dec 2, 2020 |
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Dec 2, 2020 23:14
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Yeah, all things considered I would not at all be surprised if one or more of the following were true: (1) The AIO has a small air bubble in it (they all do) and it's partially sitting in the pump/block and making excess noise (2) The fans selected for the AIO were made for static pressure with minimal fucks given to noise generation (3) The SM MB fan curves are overly aggressive (they mostly do server boards, after all, where the fan "curve" goes from jet engine idling to jet engine taking off) If you're hearing pump noise, try running the pump uninstalled and slowly rotating it around with the rad held above it and see if that makes any difference. Gentle taps may also help to dislodge any bubbles. After that, as has been said, look into whether the pump is in any way speed adjustable, and if not, whether the motherboard can fake it by treating it like a DC-controlled fan. AIO fans are almost always mediocre at best. Grab either P14's or some Noctura ones to replace them, and again make sure that they're actually being run as slowly as needed. Even for a 9900k, unless you're really overclocking the hell out of it, you should be able to run those fans real slow. No idea what sort of features the MB actually exposes there, but I'll take a contrary position and say that if you otherwise like it then a $50 fan controller is not a terrible idea if their fan control is as "detailed" as it is on some of their server boards ("Slow, Fast, Full"). It'd be cheaper that a board swap and then you can carry it over to a future build if you for some reason need to do so. What case are you using, anyhow?
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Dec 3, 2020 16:23
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SPACE HOMOS posted:They use adhesive thermal pads, so prying it off is a tad nerve wracking. Quick tip for dealing with these (or on anything with adhesive pads) is to use dental floss to cut between the chip and the heatsink. A gentle sawing motion with the floss will usually rip right through the pad without nearly as much worry about damaging the chip in the process.
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Dec 20, 2020 18:59
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ilkhan posted:As long as the pump intake is below the waterline at all times I don't think it really matters. This seems to be basically correct. In that, in a sealed system, neither air nor water are compressible to any meaningful extent here, I would be surprised if a small amount of air (or lack thereof) chilling out in the res impacted anything. Getting absolutely all the air out is usually a fool's errand, anyhow. If it doesn't leak, and there aren't any air bubbles in the pump unit, you should be fine.
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Dec 22, 2020 01:37
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Scarecow posted:Since air is compressible and water is not, having less air would increase pressure, assuming your pump was able to provide a head pressure of anything meaningful I was under the impression that air is effectively incompressible until you get it moving reasonably quick (100m/s IIRC?), so from that perspective air vs water shouldn't matter much. Water expands faster with temp than air from what I remember, but the difference between 1cm or 2cm or whatever of air vs the total volume of the water should mean that that's pretty irrelevant, too, assuming the system is air-tight. If internal pressure was actually a normal concern, the correct solution is an expansion chamber to allow for pressure relief/regulation. You don't see these in CLC loops because they're unnecessary, as the pressures simply aren't that high unless you're doing some real weird stuff. Deuce posted:The pump creates the pressure and applies it to the liquid, not the other way around. Pretty sure he means more pressure exerted on the fittings and whatnot, not that the pump creates more/less pressure.
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Dec 23, 2020 03:40
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Scarecow posted:Air is very compressible example a scuba tank Sure, with a loooot of effort. A SCUBA air compressor does like 3-5000+ PSI. Your CLC loop will start leaking at like...20-30 PSI, and even the pumps themselves normally aren't specced for over 100 PSI. Totally different categories there. You're not producing meaningful compression with a water cooling pump.
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Dec 23, 2020 05:31
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Meanwhile I'm gonna see just how toasty a system can get with a 5600X + 3080 on 2x120 rads in a case known for lovely airflow! It'll be fun. And warm. And might end up with me hanging a 240 rad out the back or something equally silly.
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Dec 24, 2020 21:06
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PSA: today I hooked up my EK 3080 FE super sweet looking waterblock only to have it leak all over the place from the frame. Upon further investigation it looks like several of the bolts that hold the metal plate to the acrylic window were not tightened down sufficiently. So if you end up getting your hands on one, I highly recommend giving them all a good twist before you do anything else with it.
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Jan 18, 2021 02:33
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SPACE HOMOS posted:You should probably contact EKWB about that. The blocks are supposed to be QC'd and leak tested. I wish the areas where fittings go wasn't acrylic on all the new rgb stuff. After further investigation I located the actual screws that keep the thing together. About half of them were loose enough I could turn them 1/2 or more of a turn by hand without much effort. So either they weren't tested prior to shipping, or the shipping between Slovenia and the US was rough enough to vibrate them out a bit (doesn't look like they had any locktite or similar on them). Broke the entire thing down and found that the main O-ring was miss-seated and pinched--not something rough shipping is likely to have caused. Reseated it and now it's working fine. Honestly, while it looks loving amazing, I'm not terribly impressed with the manufacturing quality. I'll admit this is my first aftermarket full waterblock, but I expected it to be...smoother. There are CNC marks all over the plate, including the section that contacts the die--from other watercooling products I'm used to those areas being pretty smooth, if not actually lapped (like I'd expect from a $300 premium product). The visible side is all nice and smoothed, why not smooth out the side were smoothness actually matters? The edges along the cut portions were also often rough enough to snag the cloth and cotton balls I was using to clean and prep it, moreso than I would have expected. Basically it seems like the block itself needed a polishing pass that it didn't get. Unsure if that's just how GPU waterblocks are and everyone accepts it, but between that and the obvious QA miss in terms of leakage make it seem like I got a rushed product. On the upside, now that it's installed it looks baller as hell, and it turns out that 2x120mm rads are mostly enough to handle a 3080+5600X, though they're struggling under 100% load because they're an an Evolv Shift (glass) which has the thermal characteristics of your average kitchen over, and I've got some UV light strips in there which are surprisingly hot.
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Jan 18, 2021 21:09
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Can't say I've heard too many people say EK is a bad brand before. Not that it really matters too much--there just aren't many other options. Yeah, AquaComputer has a 3080 block in theory, you just can't buy it. Corsair has one, but it's both ugly as sin and they've had some pretty bad QA issues in the past with their waterblocks. BitsPower has one, too, but they're literally a Chinese company and even more expensive. Aaaaand that's about it.
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Jan 18, 2021 22:27
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This is the first time I've bothered with a GPU waterblock, because up until now they made absolutely no sense outside an aesthetic option: previous gens you could just get a G12 and a $75 AIO and slap that bad boy on there and be good, and be able to port that over to almost any other card. Made it a whole lot harder to defend spending $200+ on a full block cooler that is locked to that card and that card alone, even if you already have a CLC for your CPU. (though I will readily admit "I was ok spending the cash because it made it look cooler" is a perfectly valid reason for getting one) Buuuut thanks to Ampere changing the mounting pattern, that's no longer possible (at least until NZXT bothers to update it), and as said, there aren't many (any) options for 3080 blocks that aren't from EK or someone even lower on the food chain, so here we are.
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Jan 18, 2021 23:16
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Canna Happy posted:O-ring problems, just like I figured. Does your block look like https://www.reddit.com/r/watercooling/comments/jubf51/ek_3080_vector_block_just_came_in_today_poor/ that? Also, did it have an ek sticker on the block saying it passed qc? In that past, all ek blocks I've purchased had a sticker saying they were pressure checked or whatever. If it looks like that reddit post, I would for sure contact customer support. Sadly, ek is cashing in on their large brand recognition with insane prices and poor quality these days. Not quite that bad everywhere--if you look at the depressed areas with the more uniform machining marks, it looks more like that, rather than the die area there which looks like it got shot-peened or something. I could understand it on the VRM/VRAM lands because you're just using thermal pads there, so having it be perfectly smooth isn't terribly important, but you'd think they'd give the die portion a quick lap at least. The actual performance seems fine, though--at 100% load it's keeping the die at 75C and the VRAM cool enough that there's no throttling like on the stock HSF (which would hit 91C and VRAM throttle, depending on which part was being stressed). It'd probably run cooler than that if I wasn't putting a 5600X into the loop as well and then trying to cool it all with 2x120mm rads in a terrible airflow case. I couldn't find any sticker of any kind on the block, FWIW. e; since it's a high-demand, back-ordered part, I could see someone at EK deciding to just ship them direct instead of receiving them, testing them, repacking them, etc., to get them in people's hands sooner, with the assumption that only a small percentage would have issues in the first place so it'd be better for 95% of their customers. Obnoxious to be one of the 5%, though! e2; doing some fan tuning also has revealed that the Arctic P14 I have as the downward facing exhaust rattles like hell when pushed above 90%. So that's annoying; I might have to see about either slightly sanding down whichever of the fins is causing it, or see if I have a spare 140mm Noctura hanging out in my closet somewhere. DrDork fucked around with this message at 00:04 on Jan 19, 2021 |
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Jan 18, 2021 23:59
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To EK's credit, they got back to my ticket the next business day, were very apologetic, and have offered to send me a replacement o-ring and a bottle of replacement coolant to make up for what I used diagnosing the issue (or a RMA, if I was cool dealing without a system for weeks). Obviously still annoying the issue existed in the first place, but at least they didn't try to argue with me or insist I must have hosed it up myself or something.
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Jan 22, 2021 17:27
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Just don't be stupid and do what I did, which was not think about things and end up going Res -> Rad -> Rad -> GPU -> CPU -> Res. Turns out if you do that, the GPU stays reasonably cool, but the CPU freaks the gently caress out because you're feeding it like 75C water. Whoops.  Switching CPU and GPU ordering there bumped my GPU temp by 1-2C under full load, and dropped my CPU temp by like 10-15C. Now the system doesn't feel like it always needs to run the fans on high!
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Jan 25, 2021 00:09
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ilkhan posted:You should not be seeing wild water temp differences like that. Lots of testing says the water should be within 1-2c difference anywhere in the loop. How slow is your pump running? You should also be running the fans based on a water temp sensor. Well I'm not really running a "recommended" loop here in the first place: I've got a 3080 + 5600X cooled by just a pair of 120mm rads. The pump is this Chinese special integrated CPU waterblock / pump / "res" deal, and runs at ~4000RPM constantly since apparently putting in a variable speed pump was within their budget, but allowing that pump speed to be controlled intelligently was not, so instead they just have a rheostat on a pair of wires to control the speed. And if that wasn't bad enough, I shoved it all in a Evolv shift. Yes, the type with the glass panels. Oh, and I don't have a water-temp sensor, but in retrospect that might not be the worst thing given the temp differentials. So, yeah. Not a whole lot of rad space, hilariously poor case airflow, a "res" that's like...10ml? There's basically no spare fluid beyond what's in the tubes/blocks/rads. Frankly I'm kinda surprised this thing works at all. It's a monument to "you were so preoccupied with whether you could, you didn't stop to think if you should." (but it looks baller and it works so gently caress it) Doing it this way means that the water gets pretty hot, which means that those rads actually do a lot of good work, because the higher the delta between your water and ambient, the more heat they can dump out. So I'd bet that the delta-T of the water before vs after the two rads is considerably higher than what it is in a more properly specced setup. The rads are non-directional, FWIW, as is the GPU block, so there was no opportunity to screw that up. The only thing that's directional at all is the pump, naturally. But no joke, I've been running a buttcoin miner to help test the thermal abilities of this thing (because I can control how much GPU wattage it's using, anywhere between 200-320W, and because I can run it for long enough to heat-soak everything fully while still dicking around doing other stuff), and going GPU -> CPU had that poor Zen3 around 80-85 sustained, and 90C+ if it actually needed to clock up and do anything CPU-wise. Now that it's CPU -> GPU it's closer to 70C sustained, with no other changes--no need to remove the block from the CPU, since all I needed to do was swap the input and output feeds, which had enough slack in the lines already that nothing needed to be removed/replaced, just unplugged from one and moved over about 3cm. I'm sure 75C water was an exaggeration. It's probably closer to 55C, since the GPU loads at 65C and the CPU at 75C. But yes, shoving 300W of heat output immediately before the CPU was very definitely causing higher CPU temps. If you run a more "sane" configuration where the water never heats up all that much in the first place, it probably doesn't make all that much of a difference. But with this thing, there absolutely are hotter/colder portions of the loop. DrDork fucked around with this message at 02:25 on Jan 25, 2021 |
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Jan 25, 2021 02:22
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As noted, I don't have a coolant thermometer. The GPU temp I'm getting from Afterburner and the CPU temp from Ryzen Master. Those are, as far as things go, pretty authoritative sources for what those bits of hardware are running at. Even if the absolute numbers are somehow off, the fact that they changed after swapping the tubes to re-order things (while doing literally nothing else) remains valid. Water temp I'm guessing at judging by how hot it still was ~10 min after turning it off so I could rearrange the tubes, at which point I'd ballpark it at 45C or so. Considering no pumps were running during that time, an operating load temp in the low 50C range seems perfectly reasonable.
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Jan 25, 2021 02:55
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Indiana_Krom posted:I read it that way the first time too, but he said it is a pair of 240MM radiators not a single one. Can't really say if it is not doing well or not because I don't have a 3080 to compare with. Nope, I have a pair of 120mm rads. Specifically 120mm x 28mm, so they're on the thin side (otherwise only one fits). Behold my house of poor choices! As far as "doing well," keeping a 320W GPU under 70C in a lovely case is already asking a fair amount from 240mm worth of rads. Throwing another 50-75W of CPU in there with a X570 chipset and some lights belching excess heat (why the hell are the UV lights that hot?) and I'm actually very pleasantly surprised. I'll run the tests here in a few and get back to you two, but I'm not sure what you're looking for out of them: I'm pumping 300-400W of heat into a system with no effective res in a case well known for lovely airflow, and while 2x120 rads are keeping things below thermal limiting break points, they're obviously undersized for the task at hand (at least in the sense that everyone going into watercooling seems to obsess over keeping temps ultra low--this setup actually ends up being considerably quieter and cooler than the air setup beforehand, and they're no longer thermally limited, so in that sense the rads could be argued to be viably, if not optimally, sized for this).
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Jan 25, 2021 03:41
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Make sure you check the o-ring! But yeah, Zen3 just runs hot. 7nm means silly high heat density, so even with very good cooling it's not unusual to see higher temp readings than you'd expect--even if the coolant isn't warming up all that much; it's just harder to get the heat out of the die in the first place than with previous generations. Even open-air test benches with good coolers are seeing stuff like ~40C idle temps and loads in the 70C range. e; There's some churn that this might be because AMD right now has set very aggressive power profiles and are over-volting the chips considerably, but my motherboard / chip / BIOS combo right now means that even a -1 offset with PBO2 immediately makes it unstable, so I'll have to re-attack undervolting later. DrDork fucked around with this message at 04:16 on Jan 25, 2021 |
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Jan 25, 2021 04:11
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ilkhan posted:You should have warmer water and hotter component temps, but the water should still be consistent anywhere in the loop. Input/Output for the CPU block / pump / res combo. Basically it's running backwards now. So before it was Res/Pump/CPU -> Rad -> Rad -> GPU -> Res/Pump/CPU, now it's Res/Pump/CPU <- Rad <- Rad <- GPU <- Res/Pump/CPU. I think the high heat generation (~400W), low liquid volume, and low rad surface combines to exaggerate the impacts of ordering more than you'd see in a normal setup.
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Jan 25, 2021 04:19
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SPACE HOMOS posted:Whats the smallest reservoir that isn't just tubing with a T in it? There are a few, depending on how liberal you are with your definition of "reservoir." Barrow has a pump and res combo, or if you want to go for the ultimate in space efficiency (at the expense of having a "res" that's probably like...30ml?) they also have a combo pump / CPU block / res. I actually have that one, because I got brain worms and decided to build in a Evolv Shift. It works surprisingly well (other than the lighting needing special hardware that's not natively compatible with anything else), except something in my setup is slow leaking fluid to the point I have to top it up every few weeks. I actually suspect it's the tubing itself being ever so slightly permeable and basically evaporating a little off as it runs.
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May 30, 2021 03:10
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fatman1683 posted:Could you not achieve something similar by essentially running your loop in reverse? Run the loop from the reservoir to the inlet side of the pump and have the pump outlet go back into the reservoir. The only place you'd have positive pressure would be between the pump and the reservoir, and it would be very little pressure since there's no restriction. If it's possible to run a pump in reverse, a pump-reservoir combo unit would let you eliminate that as well. I guess I'm not entirely sure what you mean by "run a pump in reverse," but depending on your definition there, the answer is either "no" or "that's basically what the video is about." If your idea is use a normal pump and simple re-order components or tubing, then no, it absolutely would not solve anything because the loop still functions by action of the positive pressure generated by the pump. That is, the pump is still pushing water out, regardless of which direction it's being routed, and the return-flow water comes back to the pump by that same positive pressure (albeit reduced by any intervening resistance). A hole anywhere along the way will bleed fluid because there is always positive pressure in every component of the system, even if the PSI at a given point may be slight. If your idea is that the pump pulls in water via suction in a negative-pressure manner, then that is indeed exactly the concept demonstrated in the video: by using negative pressure to suck the water into the pump and letting it just fall out the other side, you're able to tolerate holes to some extent because the vast majority of your loop is now under negative pressure. There are limits to that, of course, and that neat feature stops the moment you turn the system off, so it's not like it really offers meaningful long-term protection against such damage. It does, however, mean that you don't leak fluid out of components or joints that are fine at holding still water but then have trace leaks under the positive pressure generated by a normal pump. And I guess it presents cool YT video opportunities for people to poke poo poo in tubes and blocks.
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Oct 2, 2021 23:16
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a dmc delorean posted:No idea why Reddit seems to rave about them so much. Because they're cheap, mostly, and they usually work "well enough." Add in the usual need for people to defend their purchases (especially when they're buying more budget priced stuff because they cannot afford the more expensive brands) and off you go. Bykski is pretty fine for low complexity parts, though, like fittings and whatnot. But, yeah, their actual blocks generally reflect the lower prices they charge.
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Dec 1, 2021 04:03
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