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Rinkles
Oct 24, 2010

What I'm getting at is...
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Klyith posted:

If you want a bigger drive & to replace the HDD, good 1tb sata drives are the WD Blue 3d or crucial MX500.

Any reason to go with one over the other?

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Rinkles
Oct 24, 2010

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Is there a simple way to tell whether a mother board is SATA 2 or 3 if windows won't boot (hence the need for a new drive)? This is a ~6 year old desktop PC.

Also, am I correct that the cable doesn't matter when it comes to SATA versions?

Rinkles
Oct 24, 2010

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Rexxed posted:

You can also boot off a live USB drive of some flavor of linux.

Yeah I used Puppy to recover data.

Rinkles
Oct 24, 2010

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Sorry for the non technical post, but this is my first SSD and man are these things tiny and lightweight compared to a hard drive, and I'm not even talking about nvme.

Rinkles
Oct 24, 2010

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At present time, if we're talking about general home use (browsing, streaming, gaming, guess occasional file transfers), is there going to be a big difference between a sata ssd and an nvme ssd?

Rinkles
Oct 24, 2010

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Should most of these be basically interchangeable?



Except the Kingston apparently has way worse speeds? (unless those are SATA2 numbers for some reason)

This would be for a secondary computer, so it doesn't have to be top quality as long as it's not junk.

Rinkles
Oct 24, 2010

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BIG HEADLINE posted:

At this price point every single one of these will be a DRAM-less drive.

Spend :10bux: more and get this: https://www.amazon.com/ADATA-SU800-256GB-3D-NAND-ASU800SS-256GT-C/dp/B01K8A2A0E

How do you check?

Rinkles
Oct 24, 2010

What I'm getting at is...
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On a related note, how would you recommend setting up automated backups (for home use)?

Rinkles
Oct 24, 2010

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Jimbot posted:

Thanks for that. I'll give it a shot and see what happens. Like I said, no important data will be lost it's just a bummer that it had to fail now. Can't afford to replace it at the moment so I'm just out a drive that was working fine yesterday. Bah.

From what I understand that's how SSDs tend to fail, and that data recovery is often virtually impossible is a real downside.

Rinkles
Oct 24, 2010

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practically every hdd i've used has died, most around the 6 year mark.

Klyith posted:

If you don't want to pay for cloud space & don't have a NAS, it's better to do traditional backups to an external drive because you do not want your backups to be connected to the same PC. Hardware failure is a worry, but so are worms that encrypt all your poo poo & PSUs that blow up. Put a reminder on your calendar to backup every 2 weeks or whatever time period is appropriate.

that's what i've been doing (except much less frequently). thought there might be a more 2020 approach that doesn't involve regular payments, but that's a very good reason for not having your backup constantly connected.

Rinkles
Oct 24, 2010

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I've been curious how much drives (both varieties) deteriorate when not in use.

Rinkles
Oct 24, 2010

What I'm getting at is...
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I have a prebuilt with an nvme m.2 port that's only two lane. It's possible this was user error, but I decided to go with a SATA drive when upgrading from a hard drive because I saw online reports of issues with getting nvme drives recognized.

Rinkles
Oct 24, 2010

What I'm getting at is...
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"-would you be interested in reviewing our ssd?
-sure that'd be great.
-how much do you charge?"

Rinkles
Oct 24, 2010

What I'm getting at is...
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BIG HEADLINE posted:

Also, just FYI, the SN550 is a DRAM-less drive. Usually the price difference between a drive without a DRAM cache versus one with it is no greater than :10bux: - :20bux:, so unless you're really pinching pennies it's worth it to go with a cached drive.

Hmm, I assumed all WD Blue drives would have a DRAM cache. Why isn't this stuff easier to navigate?

Rinkles
Oct 24, 2010

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Nice, no need to change the label or anything.

Rinkles
Oct 24, 2010

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how long should i expect an hdd with less than 250GB take to clone onto an SSD in a USB 3.0 enclosure?

based on the current rate using macrium reflect, it looks like it'll be ~5 hours. if so, i was expecting, probably unrealistically, for it to be quicker

Rinkles
Oct 24, 2010

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Klyith posted:

Should be way faster. A little bit ago I did a bigger clone than that which took well under an hour, and only took that long because the destination was a QLC drive. (lol first 50% 5 minutes, second 50% slow as gently caress.)

1. are you sure the usb port and cable are 3.0 as well as the enclosure?
2. if this is inside windows, turn off real-time antivirus temporarily. that can be a big impact to bulk copy speed.
3. provenance of SSD?

1.yup
2.will do
3.WD Blue from Amazon

Rinkles
Oct 24, 2010

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endlessmonotony posted:

It's about right for a mediocre HDD.

I'd expect a good HDD to do like 90 minutes, so a suffering laptop HDD that's... normal-ish?

i don't have any reason to think it's in bad condition, barely a year old


Flipperwaldt posted:

Maybe the prediction of how long it will take is based on the size of the HDD and or SSD, not the amount of data that's on it?

i was going by percentage done and approximate time elapsed. it's already been nearly two hours. i think turning off real time protection has helped a bit.

Rinkles
Oct 24, 2010

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endlessmonotony posted:

... why do you have a HDD that new?

But no, I'd expect a good HDD with no bottlenecks anywhere to hit 300gb/hour.

came with the laptop that was a gift

Rinkles
Oct 24, 2010

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maybe i hosed something up when setting up the cloning

or the enclosure's trash

Rinkles
Oct 24, 2010

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Rinkles
Oct 24, 2010

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Anything I should check after changing drives? Would like to make sure nothing screwed up during that weirdly drawn out cloning. Or TRIM settings etc.?

Windows warned me the PC didn't shut down properly (after I changed the drives), but I'm guessing that's normal?

Also, that boot was quick :]

Rinkles
Oct 24, 2010

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I'm having heat issues. At first I assumed it was the SSD itself, but that part of the computer isn't warm at all. It's the CPU that's going crazy. First time I've seen it throttle.

Could it be that without the hard drive bottle necking i/o speeds, the CPU is now able to work itself harder, leading to these jumps in temperature? It's fine idling as I'm typing this.

Worth noting the chassis doesn't have great heat management.

e:main issue is just it being loud

Rinkles fucked around with this message at 16:31 on Nov 22, 2020

Rinkles
Oct 24, 2010

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Klyith posted:

if this is a brand new laptop that you just got, and then replaced the HDD with a SSD, see my recent post in the windows thread (specifically #1)

Thanks. As it happens mine's a 5500 as well (but a 2 in 1). It's got crap thermals, but it didn't use to get hot quite as easily. But I can see the CPU is working harder. Might make a power plan for browser use.

Rinkles
Oct 24, 2010

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DrDork posted:

So yeah, an estimate of 5hrs doesn't seem unreasonable if that's what Reflect is seeing for data rates off the start. It might not actually take that long, though.

This was the actual time

Rinkles
Oct 24, 2010

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If I don't want to clone my old drive (it's completely full), is the best way to install Windows onto a new SSD the Media Creation Tool? Older desktop this time.

I'm guessing the registration should be straightforward after I get Windows running?

E: unless there's a quick and easy way to just clone Windows

Rinkles fucked around with this message at 12:03 on Nov 23, 2020

Rinkles
Oct 24, 2010

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Thanks.

Just FYI to others, if you connect to the internet the installer won't let you opt out of signing up for an MS account. Can't turn off wi-fi after the fact either either.

If Windows isn't giving me any messages about needing to register, I'm guessing it just figured that out on it's own after connecting to the internet (after installing)?

Rinkles
Oct 24, 2010

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Accessing Windows User folders from the old drive seems non trivial cause of permissions

Rinkles
Oct 24, 2010

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Geemer posted:

Unless the files were encrypted, Windows just asks you to click a button to permanently get permission to the files the first time you try to access them.

That didn't seem to do anything, but maybe I wasn't patient enough?

I got it working through the Security tab, though it took a while.

e:yup, one click permission worked with another user

Rinkles fucked around with this message at 23:26 on Nov 23, 2020

Rinkles
Oct 24, 2010

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Going back to an HDD (to uninstall some things) feels like the stone age. Holy poo poo.

MikusR posted:

You can. During install press SHIFT+f10 to run command prompt and run ncpa.cpl (or other commands) to disable network adapter.

Useful.

Rinkles
Oct 24, 2010

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When I installed a new SSD with a fresh windows installation (using the media creation tool) last month, I didn't even have to bother with manually re-registering, Windows handled that on it's own.

Rinkles
Oct 24, 2010

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redeyes posted:

It's like this. New hardware requires a new license, which you can transfer using a windows account on the original machine. IF you didn't attach the original machine to a windows account you are out of luck. Buy a new key and done.

not true in my case, i don't have an ms account. i did make sure not to connect to the internet during windows installation, though*. it'll force you to make an account otherwise.

(*or rather tried a second time whilst offline)

Rinkles
Oct 24, 2010

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Flipperwaldt posted:

In Windows license terms, just replacing a disk doesn't count as "new hardware".

Isn't that what's being discussed here?

Rinkles
Oct 24, 2010

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Looking to get a high capacity external hard disk. Any brands in particular to stay clear of?

WD's Easystore is 5TB for $100

Rinkles fucked around with this message at 09:30 on Jun 29, 2021

Rinkles
Oct 24, 2010

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this is a pretty good deal, right?

https://www.newegg.com/black-wd-elements-6tb/p/N82E16822232981

$100 for 6TB (external HDD)

Rinkles
Oct 24, 2010

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BIG HEADLINE posted:

$25 cheaper than Amazon, if you don't mind the slower shipping, but Amazon probably just matched NE's price.

you mean they're likely to match the post-coupon price? nm, think i misread you

Rinkles
Oct 24, 2010

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are these dram-less drives?

Rinkles
Oct 24, 2010

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You're outlining reasons why they should have DRAM, but as I understand it, DRAM-less SATA drives aren't uncommon (especially at lower capacities) and it's not always easy to tell what you're getting.

Rinkles fucked around with this message at 07:42 on Jul 29, 2021

Rinkles
Oct 24, 2010

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Klyith posted:

Though for the PS5 thing, TBQH the real bandwidth (disregarding data compression) on the PS5 internal drive is ~5500 MB/s. And the XboSX is well less than that. So a lot of people are overbuying if they're getting WD SN850s or this new Adata.

With that data point, IMO the Sabrent Rocket Q4 is a perfectly cromulent drive for a PS5 upgrade. It does 5000 MB/s so it's pretty much identical to the native performance a game will expect. And QLC doesn't matter at all for the purpose at hand.

I think Sony recommends the addon drive be faster than the internal one to compensate for the custom flash controller (or whatever, not gonna pretend I know how this works).

From Cerny's presentation I think the implication was that the drive should be ~7000MB/s.



e:I don't remember if he gave a specific number actually. I did find this quote, where all he says is "a little extra speed":

"We can hook up a drive with only two priority levels, definitely, but our custom I/O unit has to arbitrate the extra priorities - rather than the M.2 drive's flash controller - and so the M.2 drive needs a little extra speed to take care of issues arising from the different approach"

Rinkles fucked around with this message at 01:21 on Sep 18, 2021

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Rinkles
Oct 24, 2010

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Does "1x M.2 PCIe SSD Slot" mean the M.2 slot is NVMe?

(But I think it should still take SATA M.2 drives?)

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