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Anyone knows why the 850 EVO prices have jump up a lot? Also any decent alternatives? (long life is more important to me than speed.)
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# ¿ Jan 22, 2021 07:31 |
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Naffer posted:I have a 240GB PNY 8LR8 Pro that I bought about 4 years go and used relatively lightly. At the time, it had rather positive reviews. About a month or two ago I noticed something seemed off, and after benchmarking it realized that while reads were fine, writes to the SSD had slowed to a trickle. Random and sequential writes of ~ 3MB/s. I backed it up, swapped it and formatted and trimmed it but it's still hosed even empty. Should I chuck it in the bin or does anyone have any idea how to rescue or repurpose it? We actually bought 10x XLR8 to our company and started to experience similar issues.
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Eletriarnation posted:No, no, I think you misunderstand - the "lot of bullshit" is what I'm trying to avoid, I'm looking for a drive that will just plug in and work. Just get modern drive and have multiple boot partitions, one at the drive itself and one at the end of the secondary sata drive. This way once you migrate, it's easy to delete the secondary partition and expand the data partition on the extra disk. Once you learn how, it is pretty painless to create new boot partitions.
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As the last of the 5x PNY XLR8 we bought in 2014 fails, taking data with it, I would put PNY to "avoid"-list.
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This is drifting slightly off topic, but has anyone configured windows server 2016 storage spaces with SSD caching? How is the real world performance?
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anothergod posted:I'm making a demo machine to show off my indie game, and I'm looking for a cheap SSD to decrease any kind of boot times I would have in case I ever have to restart. I'm looking at this Kingston A400, and for $30 it seems like the right price for something I'll be using maybe 20 days a year. Let me know if any of you have personal horror stories re: this drive or Kingston SSDs OR hero stories for any other cheap SSD. Thanks much. Well Kingston is known for swapping SSD internals to cheaper/worse ones without changing model name. Also 120GB is getting pretty small by nowadays standards, I would rather get something like 250GB WD Blue instead.
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anothergod posted:Swapping internals sounds super shady. Tbh, I don't really need much more than Windows + 60MB for my indie game, so small sizes isn't exactly a detriment (is it?). I just found this Crucial BX500 which is barely more expensive than the Kingston, and it seems as though Crucial's on the OP recommended list? I used to run 120GB SSD as a dedicated Windows drive, would have to do clean up monthly and barely had any space left. With 250GB you will have a much nicer life with less time spent on managing free space (how cheap is your time?)
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GRINDCORE MEGGIDO posted:It won't boot from nvme, unless you can find or create a modded bios. I've been thinking about this, wouldn't it be possible in windows to create boot partition on secondary disk (e.g. tiny thumb drive) and store the windows partition on the NVMe drive? Has anyone tried this or can come up with any reason why it wouldn't work?
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Talking about failures, the dozen Intel 530s we acquired at my workplace some years ago, are starting to fail one by one. The read/write speed basicly drops to unusable level for no reason.
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endlessmonotony posted:We've got discounts. We had 10x older PNY SSDs at work, I think all of them have failed (slowdown to a crawl in couple years), would not buy to myself.
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Endymion FRS MK1 posted:That being said would you think it'd be good for jamming into an Xbox One? The current generation is swappable right? I've wanted to do that for my daughter since her S is only 500gb Xbox One isn't designed for hdd swap, it's doable though.
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TorakFade posted:This is interesting... How do I recognize which ones have this phison e12 controller? Is that something that is on spec sheets? Never saw much info about controllers in online shops It's usually in the spec sheet or just Google the cheapest nvme drives you find. Sadly there's substantial premium on these drives in Europe.
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peepsalot posted:Welp, I guess I just got lucky on that run. It was going well for many hours, then I stopped the workload and restarted it and the same issue happened again. So back to the original question: should I be looking to return this drive or is there anything else to check at this point? What if you disable XMP?
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peepsalot posted:I tried this briefly, and while I couldn't reproduce the drive errors with XMP off, I don't consider that a viable long term solution. I want the RAM speed that I paid for. I don't have extensive experience with XMP, but I have heard from many that it barely never works stable.
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Verizian posted:Looking to get an nvme SSD for my rig with a Z170-a mobo. Max budget is £150 for 1TB. and I'm looking at the Adata XPG SX8200 Pro vs the CORSAIR MP510 960GB. Just want a quick sanity check that these drives aren't going to try and set my PC on fire or murder puppies before the warranty runs out? MP510 has the Phison E12 controller which many have recommended on the thread before.
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dragon enthusiast posted:I'm just trying to get a 1TB SSD into my PC before the supposed price hike, and that one happened to be cheaper than the normal SATA drives for reasons I haven't figured out yet. The actual NVMe drives can be bought with similar price and offer much better performance. https://www.amazon.com/Silicon-Powe.../dp/B07L6GF81L/
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I totally understand the confusion and self-doubt as my first M.2 drive was DOA. Most frustrating thing ever to debug.
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El Grillo posted:Should maybe post this in tech support sub but there doesn't seem to be a general questions thread there and this is too small for its own thread: Do you have the latest firmware? There was the fw bug that old data becomes slow.
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# ¿ Jan 22, 2021 07:31 |
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Shaocaholica posted:This machine doesn't support NVMe booting. Can windows bootloader or some other bootloader live on a ACHI drive and then just point to a NVMe? I asked this before, and you can use Clover-EFI to accomplish this, but was told that it's not worth it for some reason.
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