|
It lives! Looking good.
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2016 15:00
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 25, 2024 17:34 |
|
|
Larrymer posted:Sucks about the crash. I wouldn't try to repair that bendy bit, source a used or new one. Crashing sucks, but considering how many years I have been driving a little bit too fast and this being my first real accident (and it was definitely due to me going too fast under the conditions), I don't have much reason to whine about it. I would prefer a replacement part, but if some careful welding and bending appears good, I'm willing to give it a try at least temporarily. Not wild about the thought of this breaking off when driving, but if I got nothing better to do while waiting for parts, I'll give it a shot. I've decided to take the head off to do a "full inspection" of everything and clean off any carbon buildup properly, and replace head and manifold gaskets while I'm at it. Easier now than at any point later anyway. Resurfacing the flywheel is probably a Good Idea if I can get it done at a reasonable cost, as I'm getting a new clutch and pressure plate anyway. Seat Safety Switch posted:It lives! Looking good. While it is not significantly more alive now than when it got pulled out of the ditch, It Shall Drive Again, hopefully soon. Everything but the broken suspension will just add character to it, it's just battle scars. 
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2016 15:55
|
|
|
CHEMISTRY! ROBOTS! PARTIALLY FAILED SCIENCE!  Meanwhile, in a completely different part of my brain, I'm doing some stuff aimed at the KA24E swap. I took the distributor apart, as I need to fit a new trigger disc in it (got one from DIYAutoTune.com, that all the ricers use when megasquirting their 240SX'es). Problem with the distributor was almost all the screws holding it together were completely seized, and I ended up with a few of them either with the screw snapping off, or me drilling out a completely shredded head. This was stuff I had to remove to get to the trigger disc, so there wasn't much else to do. The distributor appeared to be cast aluminium, so I figured I'd try the trick of dissolving the screws in an alum solution (potassium aluminium sulphate). That meant breaking another couple of screws, since I had to get the optical sensor out of there too, as well as knocking out a rivet to get the "main shaft" out. I think there were 10 screws in it, and 5 of those remain broken and stuck. Anyway, I got the cast body stripped down except for a pressed-in bearing sleeve at the very bottom. I'd just put it upside-down in the solution to keep that bit above the water.   In order to keep the mix slightly warmed up, my brother had the idea of using the heated bed of my 3d printer, which would do the job nicely (~130W heater, thermostat controlled). So I put the thing on it in an aluminium pan (from a camping stove), covered some of it up with cardboard to reduce convection loss, and let it simmer in a solution of 100g potassium alum to 1L of water. I could have done higher concentration (solubility is 3-4 times that depending a bit on temperature), but they had just one 100g bottle at the pharmacy and I needed 1L to cover it. I then thought I'd use the 3d printer head to stir it occasionally to make sure the chemistry got to do its thing. I kept it at about 40-45°C (more than that and water would just evaporate away too much). Ended up looking like this, my robotic heating and stirring rig:  (proper video) I had it just go back and forth every few minutes, keeping the bed warm, looping forever. Pulled the plug to the Z and Y motors to avoid any mishaps to cause a spill, just used the X motor, and the spoon attached loosely enough that it would just fall off if it hit anything. Chemically it did something. I could see some bubbles forming on the screws, but it appeared to also be doing something on the cast body. A steady stream of tiny bubbles were forming, and the surface got covered in a darker layer that would rub off. So, it appeared to be somehow be slowly dissolving the cast body too, which I don't want. Overnight it seems the solution was "spent" as the bubbles had stopped forming anywhere. I had used the aluminium pan for better heat transfer, but as I thought I might have built a galvanic cell with pan I tried it again with plastic, with gave the same exact result. Not sure what this thing is made of, but it appears to be some alloy that the alum solution is slowly dissolving, forming some dark-grey oxide. It didn't affect the pan at all, and I threw in some random screw in the mix which was visibly affected, so the chemistry "works as expected". It is some kind of cast non-ferrous metal/alloy that doesn't seem to be magnesium (doesn't react at all to vinegar or acetic acid), but beyond that I don't know how to identify it. Maybe it's zinc or something. Anyway, I'll have a go at just drilling the screws out. I'll probably destroy the threads in the casting, but I can probably replace them with through-hole screws and nuts or something. If that doesn't work, I'll get a JY replacement distributor for a few hundred Swedish monies.
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2016 16:40
|
|
|
 that is delightfully nerdy.
|
|
#
?
Dec 20, 2016 13:45
|
|
|
the junkyard people haven't come through, so there's no new part yet. I thought I'd have a go at fixing the old one. Bent and broken, also rusty. After lots of hammering, enough rust came off that things could be taken apart.  The little tube is rusted away and will be replaced. That bend is not so bad, but as I was told by my grandfather (or possibly an eccentric army captain, I forget) "the devil takes a cold-smith every day". The saying doesn't translate all that well but conveys a metallurgical truth nonetheless. I needed heat, so I whipped up a forge of sorts, very rednecky if you ask me: a few fireproof bricks, a shop vac set to blow, a pipe nearly crimped at the hot end, and some fuel. I had no charcoal at hand so dry birch had to suffice. Good enough to get steel orange hot is good enough for a job like this.  Then came the grinding and welding and grinding and welding. I had hoped to try our brand new TIG rig, but the german gas regulator didn't play nice with the swedish argon bottle, so it had to be stick. Lots of material to build up, lots of linishing back checking for pores, running out of the good electrodes, using bad ones and getting pores, grinding off the porous material, finding other good electrodes but too thin for effective work. In the end though, things seem reasonably straight and reasonably strong. There's more steel than before at the weak spot where the part broke, and it's all good metal without pores or pinholes. I threw the ting back in the fire once more to straighten out the warp it got from all the welding, as well as annealing out any hardening weirdness that might have come about from uneven heating and cooling.  I realise this is not ideal, a replacement part would be better. Hopefully Ionn can get one eventually, and not die in a fiery crash caused by this part failing in the meantime.
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2016 20:22
|
|
|
TL;DR: Truck lives and drives, but isn't fixed quite yet. Me and brother invalido spent most of our "free time" (stuff not being christmasy family things) over Christmas fixing it up. The welded and straightened compression rod fit nicely (but I was too lazy to get pictures of how it looked). Brother did most of the welding, and made it a fair bit thicker around where it broke (where there was very little cross section to begin with). I don't think this part is significantly weaker (if at all) than it was before, and I doubt it will break in anything but another crash. One of the bushings on this rod where it attaches to the frame was missing, so I made a new one out of a hockey puck. All the others (the remaning one on the right side and both on the left side) look like they've seen better days, so if I'm ever doing a refresh of the various control arm bushings, I'll do these too.  However, only when this was reassembled and the lower control arm was pointing straight did we notice that the steering was completely hosed up, it had a toe-out of somewhere around 20°. I was too stupid to notice earlier, but the steering knuckle was pretty badly bent. It sits somewhat hidden by the tie rod and doesn't look too far out of place unless you compare the two sides, but then it's clear it is bent a couple centimeters and twisted a bit. The wheel was forced "turning right", and since the tie-rod or center link refused to get straighter or longer, this happened. Since we had our new TIG welder going with gas and all (after acquiring a regulator with the correct fitting on Christmas day), it was decided to try to heat it up and straighten it out. It's some kind of cast iron, but seems pretty ductile (it could bend where it got to without cracking after all). Took as many bits and pieces as possible off (everything except the seal on the inside to the CV joint) and cleaned it off. Hard to see in most pictures I took, but here it is pretty visible how twisted it is. The centerlines of the three holes (upper and lower balljoint and tie-rod end) should all be parallel. You can also see that the "end-stop" thing is also pretty bent. It's in the other direction though, and has no "fresh marks", so it must be some older injury. The picture shows it upside down, the lowermost hole in the picture is for the upper balljoint.  Stuffed and partially covered it with wet rags to keep the remaining seal cool, heated it up with the TIG torch until glowing red, and bent it back to what we thought it should look like. Looked pretty good, all things considered. However, after remounting the thing it was clear it hadn't come quite far enough. The adjustment on the right side tie rod is bottomed out as short as it will get, the left side is extended to compensate, and that leaves the steering wheel about 45° off. As a result I have much larger turning radius left as the steering rack bottoms out. No problem in traffic, but makes parking a bit interesting. This of course won't do, but since it is at least drivable, instead of doing it again I'm ordering a replacement junkyard part. The place I'm getting it from is closed this week though, but if they can ship it early next week I'll have it before next weekend though. Remounted the tire on another rim (after removing one of the all-seasons), and it holds air and has no bulges or anything, so it appears it made it just fine. Only after mounting it did I notice the valve stem was badly cracked, again because stupid and not paying attention. It held air fine all summer, but if I poked it a bit it leaked. Wouldn't do, so I had to press the tire off the bead again to change the valve. Apart from that, some more hammering and bending and pulling made the front right corner look good enough. Not perfectly straight, but doesn't stand out, and everything fits pretty well together. This picture describes my patience with those plastic clips that hold the fender liner.  Fender sits where it should. Also the "parking light" (running-light) is pretty busted up on closer inspection. It has no light in it and is held in with zip-ties and duct tape. Will need a new one. Might be cheap enough to get a pair from abroad that has indicators in them, they seem pretty rare at Swedish junkyards.  Needs more lens flare. The headlight is a bit off, but screw it, it's good enough. The front license plate was all bent, but the plates were pretty nasty and I had ordered new ones before this happened.  The right side indicator got completely smashed, but when I took the left side off (when removing the bumper), it turned out to be a right-side one turned upside down. They fit well enough, only difference is the direction of the drain hole. Still, I mounted that one on the right side and fashioned a new one on the left side out of a $4 generic indicator, duct tape and more zip ties. Will do until I get a spare (from same place as the hub).  Bonus picture of the alder tree I hit a few weeks back. We drove there for the first test drive, and found the missing bushing from the compression rod. It was pretty shredded though, I'm sticking with the hockey puck. 
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2016 20:49
|
|
|
The bed came off the truck, and I've spend a few hours making ugly various ugly repairs. The major thing of importance was straightening out a big crease in the floor of the bed, which took a bottle jack and some lumber to get sorted.  I sliced the metal along the edge (and where I thought the edge ought to be in the creases of the dent), got access for prying and bashing and whatnot, then welded it together again. Then I improvised with the sliding hammer pulling on some m4 bolts that I tacked on in order to pull up some stubborn low spots. It's not pretty but lots better than before. Body filler might make this repair look good but brother seems set on not bothering with such vanities, which is a decision I sort of support - or at least the spirit behind it. No shame in battle scars is the idea here I guess.  A straightforward patch job, but the first one I've ever done. I suppose I could spend more time grinding down my booger welds, but meh, this ain't about pretty. I am no kevbarlas, but I had lots of fun and slowly learning to be less bad with the MIG (or maybe it's MAG since we're shielding with CO2 for cheapness). I also patched a bunch of little screw holes left from when the bed presumably had a fiberglass top, as well as some other mysterious damage near the tailgate. One more patch to do on the other side of the wheel well and then it's pretty much time to prep for paint and bedliner I think.
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2016 19:24
|
|
|
Invalido posted:MIG (or maybe it's MAG since we're shielding with CO2 for cheapness). Whatever, CO2 inert enough. Also, this is what most of the last day of the year looked like:  (yes, this classifies as Good Times) Had a closer look on the rear part of the frame with the bed off. In short, the frame that previously appeared to be in really good health, still does so. It's covered in a generous layer of undercoating (allegedly by the first owner), and there is nothing but a little surface rust on a couple spots where it has worn off. I was scratching and poking and prodding here and there, and all seems sound. I sprayed about a can of monkey feces undercoating on the parts that are easy to get to now, but hard to reach with the bed on. I want the frame to last another couple of decades.   There used to be some kind of rear brake-force adjustment thing connected to the left side of the rear axle. When the suspension is compressed (from loading the bed up), it pulls a lever to a piston which is supposed to increase the rear braking force (by just removing the reduction that is normally there when unloaded). However, that whole thing apparently broke, and some previous owner just replaced it with a T connection. It behaves just fine with "full force" to the rear wheels, so I don't feel I need it. When braking in slippery conditions I haven't noticed any tendency for the rears to lock up too soon or cause it to oversteer under braking. That includes when I crashed it a few weeks back, even though I braked to the point of locking up on a very slippery road, while turning, I went off the road perfectly straight... However, I believe that means I now basically have a single-circuit brake system. There is (and always was) a single line from the T-connection (where the balancing thingy was) to a hose down to the rear axle, and there another T to lines to each wheel cylinder. I guess the adjuster thing had some kind of check valve in it, but now with just a plain T both circuits coming from the front are simply connected together. I could pretty easily make it a "regular" dual-circuit system by getting rid of both T connections and just have two hoses down to the rear axle, one to each wheel. That load-adjustment thing seems hard to come by, I haven't found any new ones and there is exactly one possible JY replacement in the Kingdom of Sweden. I think I like the idea of a "plain dual-circuit" setup better, will just need a couple of random brake hoses of reasonable length and fashion some brackets to mount them, and cut+flare the brake lines. While the bed is off for repairs, we're doing some other things that are much easier to get to now. This includes mounting the trailer hitch, painting the rear of the cab, and fixing up the rusty spare tire chain-hoist mechanism.
|
|
#
?
Jan 1, 2017 02:08
|
|
|
Sucks about the knuckle, it is probably cast steel not iron btw. Many if not most are. I would replace it sooner rather than later and start casually shopping for a spare steering rack, don't be surprised by it failing soon too. It might, or it might not, but taking a hit like that was probably unhealthy.
|
|
#
?
Jan 1, 2017 18:26
|
|
|
It sucks for ionn, he's the one paying for the parts. I'm sort of glad you're adding to my suspicion that the steering rack is damaged - the slop/dead zone as felt in the wheel has gone from noticeable to nasty, it's at least three times as big as before the crash. Brother would like to believe that it has to do with a change in toe alignment but his belief has financial underpinnings rather than mechanical I think. In your opinion, how big a premium if any would it be worth to get a low mileage rack? The junk yard parts database obviously don't supply info as to whether a car has been off-roaded or anything, but there are racks from ~$100@250.000km to $210@60000km.
|
|
#
?
Jan 1, 2017 21:55
|
|
|
I suppose it could also be play in the inner/outer tie rod ends due to the plastic bushings in them getting hammered in the accident, or steering rack mounting bushings, but yeah it might be the rack. Check the cheap poo poo first, at least that is what I do...  I would buy whichever has the least play regardless of miles, if you can fiddle with them before purchase or before they are pulled from the donor.
|
|
#
?
Jan 1, 2017 23:41
|
|
|
gently caress I wish my steering racks were that cheap... 2nd hand ones are $800-1000, Reco's are $1600 and brand new from the toyota dealer is $2800!
|
|
#
?
Jan 2, 2017 03:55
|
|
|
I dont remember if you mentioned having a manual but I've used one like this when I had my old terrano and it was generally very useful. This one looks fairly complete. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Hardbody/1988%20d21%20nissan%20navara%20pathfinder%20terrano%20service%20manual/ Mine is a single document but it is on my desktop 400 km away.
|
|
#
?
Jan 2, 2017 08:22
|
|
|
kastein posted:I suppose it could also be play in the inner/outer tie rod ends due to the plastic bushings in them getting hammered in the accident, or steering rack mounting bushings, but yeah it might be the rack. Check the cheap poo poo first, at least that is what I do... I checked the tie rod ends when I had the hub off, they seemed fine to me. When wiggling the steering bits around I didn't notice any play anywhere. However, I guess it is small enough to only be visible from the "outside". Should probably look a lot closer until the source of it is narrowed down. While I had time to ponder a few things while sliding off the road, I don't remember thinking "oh golly, I'll bump the front suspension bad, I should probably let go of the steering wheel" but likely I just gripped it hard. The force that bent the steering knuckle must have had something to pull on in the other direction, and it can't likely have made it past the rack or my thumbs would have noticed. When that force through the center link coming from the right wheel met the power steering, it may have come to a crunch right there. I've never had a look inside one of these, but if it gets replaced, I'll do a complete autopsy. The available steering racks in the Swedish Junkyard-o-Rama System are spread out allover the country, but there's one within reasonable driving distance (halfway between where I live and where the truck is) which would be my prime candidate to go check out. There are very few pick-and-pull places left here, especially around Stockholm (I know of just one), and the ones that could possibly have a 4WD D21 sitting around are probably out in the sticks, this kind of vehicle being very much a rural thing. Ferremit posted:gently caress I wish my steering racks were that cheap... 2nd hand ones are $800-1000, Reco's are $1600 and brand new from the toyota dealer is $2800! The benefit of old not-horribly-uncommon vehicles, and the pretty well functioning system of junkyard parts in Sweden. The fact that I can buy parts from cars junked in all of Sweden several years back makes for decent availability and price usually. As long as the part is relatively simple to unmount without destroying it, someone usually has it, and everything is priced pretty decently based on supply, demand, and the cost/availability of a new part. Not all junkyards are too good at cataloging their parts with pictures (or even a set price), but I prefer buying from the ones that do. Not only is the steering rack relatively cheap, it looks to be pretty easy to swap out. As long as the bolts aren't seized I would guess that in a pinch it can be replaced without even jacking the car up. There are a couple of those rear-brake-force-adjustment things available too, but they're all in dubious condition and I'm still leaning towards just not having one (and if so converting it back to dual-circuit). That will have to wait a while though, I need to make sure I can move the bleed screws on both wheel cylinders before I start cutting into brake lines. Anphear posted:I dont remember if you mentioned having a manual but I've used one like this when I had my old terrano and it was generally very useful. This one looks fairly complete. I have the same manual but found one for a 1990. A single document, but I've broken out individual sections since that PDF is such a beast. It's about 120MB and 1500 pages, all pretty high-res bitmaps, and PDF viewers seem to choke on it a bit. It takes the big HP printers at work a minute or so per page to print stuff from it. Though I've found it to be a bit hit-and-miss (some things it covers in great detail, some others are very brief), together with the Haynes manual it covers most things. The bed got a lot of repairs done this weekend (mostly by invalido while I was installing power outlets around the work area or playing with his kids), not just those big holes but lots of smaller ones where some kind of long-gone fiberglass shell was screwed on. Also painted the back of the cab and the front of the bed, as those are hard to get to otherwise. We'll weld some stuff in to attach proper tie-down anchors, and fabricate bolt things to mount the bed (one was missing and the rest were badly overtightened and stretched out), and then the bed is more or less ready to go back on. The trailer hitch is on, just needs to be tightened down later when we can align the rear bumper to the bed. Will change the rear diff fluid too since it is way more accessible now.
|
|
#
?
Jan 2, 2017 14:39
|
|
|
ionn posted:
Its not like Toyota only made 200 or so 100 series landcruisers either. The loving Toyota tax is a curse. Like a master cylinder. Want it new from Toyota? $3800! and 3 weeks from Japan! Even the loving mudflaps are $50 each from the wreckers!
|
|
#
?
Jan 2, 2017 14:53
|
|
|
You're probably not interested but I'm getting rid of my Mazda tomorrow, if you want it you can have it for free. Otherwise it's going to the junkyard. It's mostly fine except for an exhaust leak and a lovely rear wheel bearing. Not worth fixing and selling cheap cars on blocket is just not worth the hassle to me. And I'm leaving for a couple of weeks and have no parking so either I get rid of it or pay a bunch of parking tickets on it when I come back and then get rid of it.. It's short notice and a crappy old mazda but I just thought I'd ask since you race the newer models and I think a lot of the parts are compatible? It's a -89 1.6i. Parked in Bromma right now. Glad to see the truck coming back together though!
|
|
#
?
Jan 2, 2017 16:11
|
|
|
If it's a BF 323 (which I think you said it was), there are few parts that will fit that we have any real use for, and even if it's a BG most things we need are different between 1.6 and 1.8 DOHC (some stuff from 1.8 SOHC will fit though). The one thing I can think of would be various suspension bits like control arms and struts, but taking those off makes the car very hard to move around. If I had an operational truck and access to a car trailer I could take it off your hands for cheap, strip it of useful stuff and then have it scrapped, but I currently don't have the means to do so. If it was a BG 1.8 DOHC I would be all over it though. Sad to see a mostly functional car die, but it's probably the reasonable option in this case. If you had a couple more days it could probably be dumped on blocket pretty easily. Almost anything that is legally driveable can be sold for a couple thousand. It looks like I'll have the replacement hub in a couple of days, so hopefully Lennart will be back on the road after next weekend. ionn fucked around with this message at 16:58 on Jan 2, 2017 |
|
#
?
Jan 2, 2017 16:56
|
|
|
So after seeing that knuckle I can tell you the rack is going to be damaged. I do a lot of alignments at work for a local body shop. When a car gets the spindle replaced after a bend like that 90% of the time the rack has suffered internal damage. And with it being a cheap fix I always recommend them after an accident. The body shop declines but then the car comes back a month or so later and gets it replaced cause it gets worse with driving.
|
|
#
?
Jan 2, 2017 18:08
|
|
|
Ferremit posted:Its not like Toyota only made 200 or so 100 series landcruisers either. The loving Toyota tax is a curse. good lord my BJ73 clutch master is like $94 from Toyota, brake master is 255 or something
|
|
#
?
Jan 3, 2017 02:20
|
|
|
Ferremit posted:Its not like Toyota only made 200 or so 100 series landcruisers either. The loving Toyota tax is a curse. Is that the master cylinder which has the ABS module built into it?
|
|
#
?
Jan 3, 2017 08:57
|
|
|
clam ache posted:So after seeing that knuckle I can tell you the rack is going to be damaged. Yeah, it sounds like the most plausible thing to have happened unless I've missed a busted balljoint or something. I'll check up on that one that is nearby. On another note, I'm somewhat puzzled about fluids: While I was just double checking what rear diff fluid to get, I've found some contradicting information on the transfer case. The Big Fat Service Manual says: "DEXTRON(tm) type Automatic Transmission Fluid is used for the transfer in the factory. Never add gear oil (75W-90) to Automatic Transmission Fluid". ATF. Plain and simple. However, this is from the manual that came with the truck:  The circled in-section says "Transmission oils: Gearboxes and steering: API GL-4". There's a line further down for power steering fluid, and no specific mention of a transfer case. The transfer case is called "fördelningsväxellåda" (växellåda = gearbox), so the only way I can really interpret "gearboxes" is that they recommend API GL-4 for both the gearbox and the transfer case, as well as for non-powered steering racks. That is contradictory to the service manual. WTF. Googling around, most places say Dexron or Dexron II ATF, but as usual there is lots of contradictory information. Is it possible the transfer case is fine with either type of fluid? Which one is it _actually_ designed for? When I had the rear drive shaft out to gently caress with the carrier bearing, the fluid that was on the slip yoke (and what leaked out last time I did it) was pretty low viscosity and reddish, which seemed a lot more like ATF than gear oil to me. I want to change all the fluids just to know what's in it, and especially the transfer case since some of it leaked out last time I had the driveshaft out. This was shortly after the crash, where it had been sitting at steep odd angles so fluid could have ended up somewhere it usually isn't, and it was only a small amount (0.2L or so), but still. What I'll probably do is get GL-4 stuff for the gearbox and ATF for the transfer case, drain the transfer case, and check more thoroughly what actually comes out. If it's gearbox oil, I could just refill with that to avoid mixing poo poo up.
|
|
#
?
Jan 3, 2017 11:02
|
|
|
You Am I posted:Is that the master cylinder which has the ABS module built into it? Yep. Nice trap for anyone stupid enough to put DOT4 in it and swell all the seals inside the ABS unit...
|
|
#
?
Jan 3, 2017 12:31
|
|
|
Sounded weird to me too, but i just checked the factory service manual, and it states ATF for the transfer case. I would trust the factory service manual, especially since it sounds like it has ATF in it already.
|
|
#
?
Jan 3, 2017 13:23
|
|
|
Is it a chain driven tcase or gear driven? Every chain drive case I have seen with a pump in it uses ATF while splash lubed gear drive cases (admittedly a generalization) tend to be GL.
|
|
#
?
Jan 3, 2017 17:40
|
|
|
Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Sounded weird to me too, but i just checked the factory service manual, and it states ATF for the transfer case. I would trust the factory service manual, especially since it sounds like it has ATF in it already. I would too. 1500 pages of service manual should contain more truthiness than 60 pages of owners manual. Also the service manual doesn't explicitly say "never use GL", just "it has ATF from factory, and don't mix them". So it would seem I'm best off continuing to use whatever's in it now (which has probably been there some sizeable fraction of forever, and not ruined it yet). kastein posted:Is it a chain driven tcase or gear driven? Both, it appears. If I understand the diagram in the service manual correctly, the low range is via couple of gears (high locks up the shaft and goes "straight through"), and the front output shaft is driven via a chain. I don't see any mention of oil pumps or spashing things. ionn fucked around with this message at 19:25 on Jan 3, 2017 |
|
#
?
Jan 3, 2017 19:19
|
|
|
New hardware! Got a indicator light that is brand new, a knuckle/hub/rotor assembly covered in mud (I got the wheel bearing and brake disc included, not complaining about that), and a steering rack covered in rust. I've taken the old crooked knuckle off the truck and left it inside to warm up a bit, and will assemble a complete one from that, whichever bits look best. As for the steering rack, while it's rusty as gently caress it's all just surface gunk that cleans off nicely. However, while I didn't notice any significant play while I was at the junkyard, there's lots of it now. Only got apparent after I worked it back and forth a couple times. Not sure if it can be tightened up a bit or something, or if I should return it and look for something else. This morning it was -22°C. After a couple hours, it got to a nice -18°, so I decided it was time to change rear diff fluid.  It was thick as honey, but it drained out eventually (and I got the full 2.8L back in). The first stuff that came out was grey and black, but the last bit looked nice and clean (picture was halfway). There was also a bit of stuff stuck on the magnetic drain plug. Now it's full of fresh LSD fluid, so that should be sorted for another decade or two. It turned out even the cheap Biltema bottles now have those extendy-flexible-nozzle things, so it would have been no problem to do this with the bed back on. Now it's done anyway. The other stuff (gearbox, transfer case, front diff) will wait until it's a bit less cold though. Also tried starting it at -20°C, which didn't really work; Engine turned over very slowly, and while it definitely wanted to start (fired a few times) it didn't before the battery was too low. Time for a new battery. We should be able to do the last bits of stuff on the bed (weld in reinforcements for tie-down anchors) and put it back on today. It's going to be warmer tomorrow, so I can hold off reassembling the front-right hub until then. I'll try to loosen up things around the steering rack, if nothing else to compare what the seems looks like in them both.
|
|
#
?
Jan 6, 2017 13:48
|
|
|
Well, that didn't go as planned. The replacement spindle/knuckle/hub (what are these called anyway?) got installed. All four bolts that held the brake shield and the axle seal snapped (the seal that was on there was damaged so I used the old one), so new holes had to be drilled. I hosed up, broke the tap and then realized holes weren't usable anyway, but invalido fixed it by drilling out the old screws and making through-holes. Apart from that it all looked good and fit nicely, up until the last bit to go on, namely the outer tie rod end. It turned out the hole in the steering knuckle was slightly bigger than the one in the old bent one, and the tie-rod end is just flopping around. The old one was about 13mm in the bottom and 14.5 in top, the new one 14 and 16. It doesn't look like the hole is worn out that way as it is still perfectly circular and straight, so my best guess is that it's some difference between model years. The same place I got it from had another one, I'll ask them to measure that one out. Apart from that showstopper (leaving the truck stranded), the bed is finished for now and ready to go on. It sits on the back of the truck, but I need to mount the "headache rack" and do some seam sealer on the front-facing side before it gets properly mounted. It had snowed quite a bit, so we were able to just slide it down the hill on its side to get it to the truck. I also started it up cold, at about -18°C or so. The engine turned over, but oh so slowly. Started fine with jumper cables though. Battery clearly doesn't have much oomph left at these temperatures, so it's about time to get a new one. Also I'll probably return the replacement steering rack I got. Since it's not going anywhere for a while anyway (will be held up on other business a couple of upcoming weekends) I can get a different rack and will try to find one with less play in it.
|
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2017 20:47
|
|
|
Nissan just have this thing bout ATF in transfer cases- all the modern Navaras and the Patrols and Pathfinders all have ATF in the transfer case. Toyota just uses 80w-90 transmission oil regardless of chain or gear drive
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2017 06:05
|
|
|
Oh god your crash gave me a flashback to the time I had just finished getting an XJ back on the road, and then promptly going off an icy road into a tree, with almost the exact same type of damage in the same spot. I was so pissed at myself for getting cocky with the four wheel drive, it really does make you feel invincible sometimes, right up until you're careening into a snowy ditch.
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2017 06:50
|
|
|
Ferremit posted:all the modern Navaras and the Patrols and Pathfinders all have ATF in the transfer case. What would classify as "modern" in this case? 1990? Applebees Appetizer posted:I was so pissed at myself for getting cocky with the four wheel drive, it really does make you feel invincible sometimes, right up until you're careening into a snowy ditch. I am (and even was at the time) perfectly aware of how little effect 4WD has on turning and braking abilities. I was just going to fast for whatever surface I was on, and misjudged it. Made me lots more careful on slippery stuff, not sure how long that effect will last though. I just spoke to another junkyard, found another steering knuckle where they checked the dimensions of the hole for the tie-rod end and it seems like the proper one. It is also from a 1990 (the "wrong" one I think was a 1996), so my guess is that they just changed to a different tie-rod end somewhere between those years and changed the knuckle to match. Not sure when I have time to go assemble it though.
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2017 14:39
|
|
|
Me and invalido have attached the bed to the truck again, as well as the trailer hitch, and that all looks good. Swapped out the steering box for the very rusty one I got from a JY, I was able to tighten it up a bit. Adjusted it to the point that it just started binding in the far corners, and then backed it off a little, at which point the steering play in the center is noticeable but not bad. At the very least, better than the steering box I probably smashed. I saw a tiny trickle of power steering fluid leaking from the output shaft where there was absolutely none before, so it has to be replaced anyway. I haven't been able to test drive it yet, so I don't know how the "road feel" of it is. I got another steering knuckle / hub assembly from a different JY (a friend picked it up and delivered it this evening). I'm not near the truck to mount it for another while, but just measuring the tie-rod end hole it matches the old one as close as I can get with vernier calipers, so that's good. This one also came complete with upper and lower balljoints, hub rotor, brake disc and even the locking hub. A good heap of spares to have around, but I'll keep all those bits from what came with the truck since I know those are good. Once I can slap this steering knuckle on, I just need to do a rough alignment and reinstall the tail lights, then I should be back on the road again, finally. I've ordered a new pair of running lights (since one got smashed) and need to install the new indicator light, but that's all low priority cosmetics. Speaking of cosmetics, I painted some parts of the body when the bed was off that are impossible/difficult to get to otherwise (front of bed, rear of cab, headache bar). Just matte black cheapo paint applied with roller or brush, it came out well enough. Will do the rest in a few months when it's warmer out, but I think it will look fine. The time for cosmetic appearance fixing shall come, but not now. Since it was too dark out when I thought about maybe taking some pictures, here's instead the Lada Niva that lives in my neighbourhood and I sometimes walk by:   It's been "removed from use" since 2016-12-29, but still moves around between parking spaces. Guessing something random broke again. Records say it's a 2005 that's only done 34000km. This vehicle fills me with equal amounts of feelings of  and  . Apart from the godawful ugly front indicator lights above the headlights I think it looks pretty cool and it is supposedly pretty capable, but it would be a maintenance mess. Still, if I had limitless car storage space I would probably have one just to see what life with a Soviet 4x4 shitbox is like.I'll repeat my question from "stupid questions" regarding PS fluid: What happens if you mix ATF (red stuff) and CHF (green stuff) in a power steering system that's designed for ATF? There was a fair bit of fluid in the old steering box and some lost during the switch. Somewhere between 1/3 and 1/2 of what was in the PS system. I didn't have enough ATF around so I topped it up with CHF just to test it for function and leaks (there was lots of one and none of the other). My gut-feel guess is it's fine, and that the two fluids are pretty similar except ATF has a bunch of friction modifiers and detergents and magic for automatic transmissions. But I'll be damned if I know. Can drain and flush, but I'd rather not if this will work. What will happen to me and my power steering if I keep this ATF-CHF mix?
|
|
#
?
Jan 15, 2017 22:50
|
|
|
I was worried for a second that you had purchased a Lada, but admiring them from afar is a much more productive pursuit. I think Pentosin says that their CHF should never be mixed with mineral-base ATF but I'm guessing that's for power-steering racks that are meant to have Pentosin (ATF chews up their seals) so it won't matter in this instance. Drive it for a little while and then do a dip-test with a popsicle stick or something to see if it's kicking out jelly globs or something weird but I would be surprised if a hogged-out old PS rack like that cared.
|
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2017 06:25
|
|
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:I was worried for a second that you had purchased a Lada, but admiring them from afar is a much more productive pursuit. My almost entirely factless guess on the matter of these fluids is that the PS system just needs some kind of hydraulic fluid, and ATF happened to be a fluid already used in lots of cars that could be used for this purpose. By just having seals that can take the chemistry of ATF, there's one less type of fluid to worry about. CHF seems to be a bit thicker and supposedly has different temperature characteristics, but I would guess power steering cares a lot less about what's in it than a transmission would. Obviously the internet in general says "omg don't mix them" and "you must use whatever the manufacturer specifies", but I can only connect that with "opposite direction" (ATF in CHF-spec'd systems). With no yet discovered factual objections to using CHF in my PS system and it works, I'll probably keep it in there for science and cheapness. Seems most non-ancient vehicles that use CHF are those that use the same fluid for some other hydraulic business (suspension or something, where ATF maybe won't do). Apparently there are BMWs where the owners manual just says "fill with whatever fluid it says on the PS reservoir cap", and that cap is molded to say "use ATF of some spec" and sometimes has a sticker covering that saying "use CHF of some spec". I for one have my doubts on the longevity of a sticker on something plastic that occasionally gets oil on it.
|
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2017 11:44
|
|
|
ionn posted:Seems most non-ancient vehicles that use CHF are those that use the same fluid for some other hydraulic business (suspension or something, where ATF maybe won't do). Apparently there are BMWs where the owners manual just says "fill with whatever fluid it says on the PS reservoir cap", and that cap is molded to say "use ATF of some spec" and sometimes has a sticker covering that saying "use CHF of some spec". I for one have my doubts on the longevity of a sticker on something plastic that occasionally gets oil on it. Although they probably qualify as "ancient" now, 80s Audis will blow a seal in the power steering rack after about a month or so of driving if you use ATF instead of Pentosin in the power steering system.
|
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2017 16:13
|
|
|
Finally. Lennart the Truck is officially back on the road! The other replacement steering knucke I got fit fine, I assembled the thing and mounted it yesterday, as well as attaching mudflaps and lights and whatnot. I drove it a bit today and it handled like rear end, as I had done an awfully rough alignment and had a tire-screeching toe-out. Just had that adjusted to be a bit more straight (an ever so slight toe-in) and now it feels fine. During the short test-drive I felt no noticeable play in the steering, which is nice. Probably not a perfect alignment by any means, but as long as it drives decently, prefers going straight, and doesn't wear out the tires unnecessarily, it will do. Will probably just have to keep adjusting until it does. So now I can abandon the tiny little Yaris I borrowed and go back to driving something more proper. Not just fixed but improved with tie-down hooks, engine block heater, fewer rust holes and a fresh outlook on life having come back from such a bad injury. Also while I was out working on it yesterday, a neighbour who drove by stopped and asked if I wanted a couple of sets of wheels he had laying around. He said at least one of them was from a Nissan truck and they were both 6-lug, but he wasn't quite sure of the sizes (he thought 16" and 14"). He just wanted to give them away, and who am I to say no to that. Will see what it is once he comes by with them. If I have no use for them, I have the perfect vehicle for taking them to the scrapyard.
|
|
#
?
Jan 27, 2017 20:50
|
|
|
Karma Payout! That neighbour with the leftover 6-lug wheels, he dropped them off and it turned out it was one set of 14", and one set of 15". The 14" ones are pretty useless, as they won't fit over the brake drums on the rear and the tires are too small. The tires are pretty worn and have some cracks, so I'm junking them. The 15" rims however will do fine. It's not exactly the same wheels as the ones I already have a few of, but close enough. I broke one rim in the accident, and I have one that is badly unbalanced and has severe rust, so I'll grab two of these to clean up and repaint and stick winter tires on. The tires on those rims are very worn and old studded snow tires, but I'll keep two of them mounted as spares or something. They're likely fresher than the spare hanging under the truck anyway. Here's a thingy me and my brother made to break the bead when changing tires that I used in this case. A big "C" welded up of scrap steel bits, and a bottle jack. Has so far worked perfect, even for decades-old tires. These came off super easy.   The truck overall drives fine now. No real clue how the steering should be set up "properly", but now everything looks about straight (wheels, pitman+idler arms, steering wheel) and it doesn't seem to want to veer off the road and kill me. Some small play in the replacement steering box, but I don't think there's more than there was pre-accident.
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2017 16:45
|
|
|
Is that a wooden bottle jack handle?
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2017 16:47
|
|
|
bolind posted:Is that a wooden bottle jack handle? It sure is! It used to be a paint stirrer but it got repurposed.
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2017 18:18
|
|
|
Generic update and archive-avoidance: Haven't done much to the truck lately, except use it as a truck. My sisters family has moved to a house and I'm rebuilding my kitchen, so there have been quite a few trips of furniture, Ikea packages, junk, construction material and appliances. The usefulness of a small pickup truck for this is hard to beat, and it has basically paid for itself in the last month. Simply brilliant. Especially when me and Invalido were tearing out the old kitchen (all cupboards + floor), we could back the truck right up outside my kitchen window and just throw the old crap out into the bed.   Last week, I was playing in an ice hockey tournament outside Stockholm. The parking lots nearby (the one by the ice rink, as well as a nearby school) were all packed completely full, with cars haphazardly parked wherever they would fit. Finding a leftover space for my truck in there would have been problematic, but there was one marked-out parking spot that noone but me could and wanted to use.  Hard to see in the picture, but there's a big bulge (roots from a nearby birch tree) about a meter across and maybe 25-30 cm tall, covering maybe half the width of the space. I was leaning enough driving over it that the top of the cab almost hit the van next to me, but whatever, I had my own reserved parking spot for two days. I've also realized I'm burning oil. I was about 2.5 liters below full (basically half the oil in the engine was gone), but I'm not sure where it went. I haven't seen any blue smoke out the tailpipe, and no leaks anywhere near that magnitude. I did top it up last fall and since then haven't cared as I'm swapping the engine out anyway. I've driven about 2000km since then, and maybe it's just burning it slowly enough that I can't see it. I'll just keep topping it up until that engine comes out. Yesterday I took the snow tires off, and put on the "summer tires" (half-worn old all-seasons) it came with. There's still a slight risk of small amounts of winter weather in April still, but I'll manage on those. Mainly want to get the badly unbalanced snow tires off, they were never properly done to begin with and the stuff I swapped around after I crashed it vibrated a lot. Before next winter season I'll replace a couple of the rims and have them all balanced properly. I also guess the two different sets of rims have slightly different offsets, when I had them mismatched up front it would pull very slightly to the left under braking and that's all gone now. I thought it was due to bad wheel alignment (which is as straight as I can make it by myself), but if it's fixed by this, I'm good.  Truck truck truck. Life is good.
|
|
#
?
Mar 26, 2017 11:56
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 25, 2024 17:34 |
|
|
Still burning oil. Having checked it and topped it up a bit more often than "once or twice a year", it seems I'm losing less than a liter per 1000km, but it also seems to vary a bit. Still haven't seen any blue smoke, so I'm guessing it is just going slowly past the 230000km/27y old piston rings. Not going to bother too much with it and just refill it with cheapo leftover oil until I get the KA24E swapped in, hopefully sometime this summer. I can even pour in whatever oil comes out of the family's other cars, I doubt this old Z24 is going to care too much or get noticeably worse anyway. I've parked the truck for now for a few weeks to keep it out of the way (having gotten my Miata out for the season and done all the heavy hauling for my kitchen rebuild), but I should have time for some various fixes and repairs. Need to rebuild the mounting for the trailer hitch and get it properly inspected, fix the still-duct-taped-on position lights, and maybe even paint the thing. Also want to take the rear brakes apart to make sure they're in decent shape (and that I can open the bleed screws) so I can convert it back to dual-circuit brakes again. Random pics of kitchen poo poo I've been hauling around:  
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2017 12:54
|
|