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Invalido
Dec 28, 2005

BICHAELING
Yesterday I got to drive the truck properly for the first time since the swap, doing truck stuff, namely hauling dirt. It's perfectly driveable and adequately powerful. However it doesn't at all like to start without making a fuss. There's popping and backfiring and stubbornness, and it wants its gas pedal tickled. Also it doesn't like it when you press the gas pedal while driving, unless you do it ever so slowly, or there will be a second or two of misfiring before the power comes. I have unlimited faith in ionn's tuning and programming skills, and it is my firm belief that these issues will be sorted eventually. There's no turning back now!

When the parts store is the better part of an hour away, you make do whenever possible. Bro needed an adapter between different vacuum hose sizes and went all clickspring bodge job on some brass fittings:





Rumor has it that the swirl control valve is actually functional now, which must surely be a Good Thing.

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ionn
Jan 23, 2004

Din morsa.
Grimey Drawer
Yeeep, truck is back at doing its thing. Hauling garbage and soil.




After I got the wideband 02 sensor issue sorted out at least well enough for now, the truck can be driven and road tuned. Just driving it with a laptop doing TunerStudio's "autotune", where it checks on how off the AFR value is and adjusts the VE table as you drive. Pretty handy for a rough tune. I'm trying to slowly expand the envelope, as I haven't really been pushing it to the higher end of the RPM scale at all. After a little while more of this, I'll revert to the slower but more accurate method of just logging while driving, and then map out those logs as an "AFR error" plot and adjust VE table by hand. Ideally I would get this truck on a dyno to do this all in one go, but I don't know anywhere where I can do that for free or very cheaply, so that's not happening. However, I don't feel I need to have the maximum possible spark advance and best power, as long as it runs well enough and reasonably fuel-efficient at cruise it will do.

The SCV issue indeed seems sorted. The ECU-controlled actuator was doing what it was supposed to, but it turned out the vacuum port I hooked it up to didn't suck enough. I did a pretty careful diagram of all the vacuum lines when I took it apart; the fuel pressure regulator was hooked up to a port on the front, the solenoid valves for EGR and SVC to a port on the side right next to the larger one for the brake booster. I figured it was a good idea to separate "work vacuum" from "measuring vacuum", so I kept it like that and teed the MAP sensor in together with the fuel pressure regulator.
However, that port doesn't behave like a regular intake manifold vacuum port; at idle it's at atmospheric pressure, but a little bit more RPM and it shoots up to pretty strong vacuum and stays there. I won't pretend to know wtf goes on in there, but I really don't need to. After macgyvering an adapter from 6mm to 4mm, I connected the SCV valve to the larger port that used to go to the charcoal canister (which was just blocked off). That port has "normal vacuum" and works fine.



Edit: The connector seen in that picture is the MAF sensor. I'm not using it as I have a MAP instead for speed-density, but it's still there to block a hole in the throttle body.

The SCV now closes when it should, and that noticeably improved the accelerator situation from idle. It still stumbles a little bit, but not nearly as bad as before. I used to be able to make the engine stall at idle by jamming the pedal, which it no longer does. I didn't drive it after this though (had to do some Miata stuff before going home), but it will certainly need some re-tuning as this does restrict airflow at certain parts of the table. As the restriction is after the MAP sensor, the same measured pressure will allow less air into the cylinder, reducing volumetric efficiency needing less fuel. Also the fuel supposedly gets dispersed better by this, which may reduce the fuel need even further.
I'm using Speeduinos VVT table for this, just on/off as the actuator can't really do "proportional" things. The table is just a square block at low rpm + throttle (for some reason it maps Y axis to TPS, not MAP/fuel load), but I'll have to try to figure out where it's useful to have it closed and not.

I also need to replace the power steering belt. It's squealing, not from slipping (as it happens even when not touching the steering), but from sitting very deep in the grooves and rubbing something the wrong way.


It rides like that at the pump, tensioner/idler, and crank pulley, and I should obviously have a 13mm wide belt rather than the current 10mm. That was the situation on the old engine too by the looks of the wear/rust on those pulleys, and while I replaced that belt a couple years back I never thought much of it and never really heard any significant noise from that. Probably the pulleys were just "worn in", and I couldn't hear the noise over the racket made by the engine.
Anyway, a 13x1175 belt should do nicely. That 10x1150 is pretty tight to get on as it is and I have a lot of room to tension it further, and having the belt ride a few mm higher will increase the circumference of the "belt loop" by 15-20mm anyway.

ionn fucked around with this message at 06:50 on Sep 3, 2018

Invalido
Dec 28, 2005

BICHAELING


So the truck has been trucking quite a bit lately. Bro and I went endurance racing this last weekend, and he successfully towed a trailer with a race car on it. It also managed several hours of highway driving without the trailer at a respectable pace. After the last highway stint however, it started missing on one cylinder. Plugs were ruled out as the cause, and the bad cylinder worked intermittently under low/no load. After being parked for a few days it has apparently fixed itself. I'm thinking it's a heat soak related bad injector, but we'll have to look into it more thoroughly if the problem comes back.

DJ Commie
Feb 29, 2004

Stupid drivers always breaking car, Gronk fix car...
Glad to see it going, Swedish car redneckery is alive and well!

I'm sure someone could find you the multipoint setup from the Bluebird/Altima/240SX/late D21/etc if you wanted to get even more 'modern'. I swore the US didn't get that TBI setup, but it looks like we did. I don't venture into Nissans in yard much, but I certainly can look if you happen to need something.

slothrop
Dec 7, 2006

Santa Alpha, Fox One... Gifts Incoming ~~~>===|>

Soiled Meat

That race car paint job makes me unreasonably happy

Invalido
Dec 28, 2005

BICHAELING

slothrop posted:

That race car paint job makes me unreasonably happy

It looked even sweeter with the hastily made stickers of inappropriate material on it. Now the truck needs a paint job of similar quality (but better prep work, there's more body rust than I'd like and something needs to be done about it sooner rather than later).

Sadly, ionn seems dissatisfied with the truck as a winter DD. He complains that it is "to big to park easily" and "too thirsty" and is starting to display a defeatist attitude in general. There's dreams of purchasing another winter shitbox, hints of Audi quattros and old Peugots and all kinds of crazy talk. Luckily the truck is completely unsellable with all our hack jobs in it, so it will probably remain in his possession to be brought out of storage for trucking duty until the end of days.

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ionn
Jan 23, 2004

Din morsa.
Grimey Drawer

DJ Commie posted:

I'm sure someone could find you the multipoint setup from the Bluebird/Altima/240SX/late D21/etc if you wanted to get even more 'modern'. I swore the US didn't get that TBI setup, but it looks like we did. I don't venture into Nissans in yard much, but I certainly can look if you happen to need something.

It has the multipoint injection. Sweden (and possibly other nearby markets) had the carbureted Z24 pretty late, and this 1990 had that. The engine in it now is a KA24E out of a 1996 D21, and it has "proper" fuel injection. Not sure if we ever got the Z24i in between. Also for reasons I can't explain I decided to change the distributor ignition to waste-spark.

Not sure what's going on with it now, I just started it up and idled it for a while and definitely had all four cylinders, but I'll drive around a bit and see what gives. A lazy injector that refuses to work when hot would sort of match the symptoms as described.

slothrop posted:

That race car paint job makes me unreasonably happy


I'm reasonably happy with the paint job. It looks lovely up close, but from a few meters away it did the job. We finished #11 (out of about 60 cars, 40-50-something were doing the full 24hr race), which is pretty decent. Had a couple brake failures and flat tires that caused a few extra pit stops, and we just barely missed the top 10.

Invalido posted:

It looked even sweeter with the hastily made stickers of inappropriate material on it. Now the truck needs a paint job of similar quality (but better prep work, there's more body rust than I'd like and something needs to be done about it sooner rather than later).

Sadly, ionn seems dissatisfied with the truck as a winter DD. He complains that it is "to big to park easily" and "too thirsty" and is starting to display a defeatist attitude in general. There's dreams of purchasing another winter shitbox, hints of Audi quattros and old Peugots and all kinds of crazy talk. Luckily the truck is completely unsellable with all our hack jobs in it, so it will probably remain in his possession to be brought out of storage for trucking duty until the end of days.

OMGLOLSTFU. It _is_ a big rear end thing to try and park in the city, and it is pretty darn thirsty. Haven't measured the new engine out with regards to fuel consumption, but I'm guessing about 11L/100km once it's running right (which it right now isn't). There's no way I'm selling this thing now, but it might be set to be a utility vehicle rather than a "transport my rear end around town" machine. In a couple years it will be tax exempt, so it's cheap enough to just have around.

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