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Mostly just the stuff you listed. Will need to measure then order a driveshaft. Fab work on my end should be simple stuff like tank mount, windows and some minor sheet metal stuff. Couldn't order hoses without the car to get measurements, hoping to find a bulk of these used. Once seats mounted I will have to have a harness bar added, need to find a shop that works with chromoly. I'm pretty sure the fab shop near my house can do it and other stuff he's done for me has come back quickly and very well done. Wiring, plumbing and assembly will still be a major project. Schedule looks fairly clear for a while.
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May 11, 2017 03:58
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Mini update as I'm horrible at having a thread. Installed wheel, quick disconnect stuff then did a test fit of the seat. It fits but just barely, this cage was not designed for a halo seat and anyone taller than me. Not to thread in the master cylinders to make sure seat distance is correct but it felt pretty good.  Also tossed in one of the Ground Control race camber plates. 
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May 29, 2017 11:39
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NitroSpazzz posted:Mini update as I'm horrible at having a thread. I see that you've trimmed the lip on the shock tower a bit. Was that required for those plates or just something to make the more extreme (EXTREME!) settings easier to get at?
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May 30, 2017 05:06
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HandlingByJebus posted:I see that you've trimmed the lip on the shock tower a bit. Was that required for those plates or just something to make the more extreme (EXTREME!) settings easier to get at? Na that's how they are from the factory. I may end up doing some trimming to get more camber since these cars run best at -3 to -3.5 IMO. It does look like at some point in this cars history someone messed with the shock towers though, I think they were modified for more camber with some cutting and welding. I'll try to remember to get a picture of that.
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May 30, 2017 11:31
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Instead of packing the E21 for the E30 meet that I had planned on arriving at yesterday morning I tinkered with the track car a bit. Put in the other camber/caster plate. With the camber plates and modified shock towers I can get around 4.25 degrees of negative camber with the plates maxed out. I plan to run in the 3.5-3.8 range but it's nice to know I have more available. Got a couple pictures to show the previous shock tower adjustments which seem to have added 1.5-2 degrees.    
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Jun 1, 2017 20:30
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Little update as I've been tinkering with things and trying to figure out the best way to run various plumbing things. Just doing a photo dump  but painted engine/trans mounts (Rustoleum high temp silver is fairly close to Lachssilber), installed and removed the pedal box 20 times, got hardware for the pedal box and master cylinder mounting and went through roughly 500 latex gloves...I need to buy thicker ones next time. We're also baby sitting a monster lab for the next two weeks. He's big and dumb but a good garage buddy once he calms down.      I also looked at some old race cars, full album here but it's mostly interior stuff - http://imgur.com/a/RVWEU This is completely free to view and open to the public, if you're near Spartanburg, SC it is worth a stop.    Ok now for my present dilemma that I've been bugging the AI Slack about. I need to figure out my brake plumbing, mostly going from one thread to another. Master cylinder for reference - https://www.apracing.com/product_details/race_car/master_cylinders/flange_mounted_types/vertical_flange_types/cp2623_type.aspx I have the tools to make all the regular brake flares but not the 37 required for AN. Master in - 7/16"-20 Master out - 3/8"-24 Fluid Reservoir out - 4AN Calipers - M10x1.00 So in is easy, found 7/16-20 to 4AN o-ring boss adapters (https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3603) and three are on the way. Master out to the brakes is where I'm trying to figure out best route. Rear need to go out then run through the cabin to a four way split in the rear, front needs to go into a tee fitting as close to the master as possible then run to the front corners. I can find 3/8-24 to 3AN but then I have to go 3AN to m10x1.00 and I'm not finding 3AN female to m10x1.00 adapters. I also don't want a mess of adapters and connections cluttering things up and leading to possible leaks. Something like this would be ideal except for the 3AN outputs, getting rid of a tee fitting is always a bonus. Would have to make sure I'd have room for it though, especially if I had to have adapter on the ends. So best way to go 3/8-24 (o-ring boss) to m10x1.00 brake?
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Jun 24, 2017 19:53
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I think I must be missing something. From the master outlet to the tee or distribution block etc, why not just use a hardline with a 3/8"-24 fitting on that end and an M10 on the other?
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Jun 24, 2017 20:19
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Exactly what I realized a couple minutes after posting. Just need to find a fitting that will seal since I think the outlet is just a hole with no flare to seal but a crush washer or something should do the trick. Yay for over complicating things as usual.
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Jun 24, 2017 20:22
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NitroSpazzz posted:Exactly what I realized a couple minutes after posting. Just need to find a fitting that will seal since I think the outlet is just a hole with no flare to seal but a crush washer or something should do the trick.
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Jun 24, 2017 20:35
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InitialDave posted:As long as the bottom as the hole isn't really poorly machined, a bubble flare should work just fine, though, shouldn't it? I assume they just drill it such that it has a conical bottom to it. Easy enough to test I guess but these should be pretty nicely machined coming from AP Racing. Thanks for bringing me to my senses. Big ol bubble flare and only tighten it down once I'm sure it's in for good.
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Jun 24, 2017 20:50
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Yeah, don't forget you get 2 lengths of threaded fitting, so try one on its own first, and if it bottoms out the hex to the top of the cylinder before hitting the bottom of the hole, you probably need a longer one.
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Jun 24, 2017 21:05
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This trans mount is triggering the mech engineer in me pretty hard. Why not just have it fully boxed (connect the two sides in the middle so they aren't cantilevered like that)?
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Jun 25, 2017 22:08
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Larrymer posted:This trans mount is triggering the mech engineer in me pretty hard. Why not just have it fully boxed (connect the two sides in the middle so they aren't cantilevered like that)? Oh it bugs me too, and I mentioned that next time he probably wants that to be one solid piece. I'm making something to tie them together that may eventually be welded on. I think due to lack of time and it being much easier this way is why he did it.
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Jun 25, 2017 23:27
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Unrelated to the actual content, but you may want to go up a size with the gloves. I hosed up once and bought a box of mediums and I think I spent more time changing gloves than I did turning wrenches. I'd just blast them open like yours there.
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Jun 26, 2017 22:18
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I think that's the problem, downside is I bought in bulk so I have 1000 small gloves. Good news is I'm at least 1/3 of the way through the pack
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Jun 26, 2017 22:59
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Glove chat: These are working out pretty good for me, they still get torn from time to time but I usually go more than an hour on a pair. They don't tear just trying to put them on like some of the lovely ones I've had in the past. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BC14K4I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
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Jun 27, 2017 06:53
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Even just a flat plate joined by those two bolts would seem to be an improvement and there appears to be enough thread to accept it.
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Jun 27, 2017 12:27
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cakesmith handyman posted:Even just a flat plate joined by those two bolts would seem to be an improvement and there appears to be enough thread to accept it. Tried to salvage the throttle pedal assembly last night but the bushings are shot and some of the stuff is bent up. I'll still be able to use the  gas pedal but need to probably just order all new parts for all the pivot stuff. Would be lying if I hadn't thought of picking up a 3-pedal box but the one I have will work fine for now. May see if I can simplify it slightly but I'm probably better off leaving it alone. 
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Jun 27, 2017 15:53
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NitroSpazzz posted:That's my plan. Have some 1" x 1/4" bar stock I'll cut to length then make a few holes in it. Quick coat of paint and while it won't be pretty it'll work fine. Three pedal boxes aren't that expensive and give you a lot more options as you're building your hydraulic systems. Honestly probably less of a pain in the dick for you to do it now rather than adapting your circuits to one later when you change it. Yes, I'm enabling a bit, but also this is an actual race car so you might as well avoid trouble down the road 
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Jun 27, 2017 18:01
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If I didn't already have a nice Wilwood two pedal box I wouldn't even hesitate, maybe I'll see if their three pedal boxes mount nicely where a two pedal was previously. That or just go floor mount for less holes in the firewall and cleaner looking install.
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Jun 27, 2017 18:37
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Working on brakes over the long weekend, have 1/2 the lines bent and wanted to bolt things up on one side to do a hardware store run. Ran into a little snag on the rears...the rotor will not work with the calipers. Not a huge surprise given they look like rusty rear end original rotors. I haven't been able to find info on what rotors would work yet but the thread needed an update. Rear calipers are AP Racing CP5020 - https://www.apracing.com/product_details/race_car/brake_calipers/pro_5000_range/2_piston_caliper_family/cp5020-20s0_(rh)_/-21s0_(lh).aspx Calls for this 280mm x 9.6mm rotor - https://www.apracing.com/product_details/race_car/brake_discs/solid_discs/%C3%B8280mm/9.6mm_thickness/176.8mm_p.c.d.-bolted-cp5000-177.aspx I'm worried that the mounting bracket being used will space things different making those rotors too small. I'll need to find the mounting hardware to bolt the rotor to the rear hub as well. Anyway here's some pictures...        Enjoy my pale legs In case I haven't posted how they converted to proper coil over in the rear before.  
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Jul 3, 2017 17:10
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Did you take those in your underwear? 
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Jul 4, 2017 02:11
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ishikabibble posted:Did you take those in your underwear? I thought it was obvious that he was loving it.
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Jul 4, 2017 02:13
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ishikabibble posted:Did you take those in your underwear?  Leave it to a goon to not be able to recognize gym shorts smh
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Jul 4, 2017 02:58
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Goons Random mismatched hardware aside this is how they'll sit once I find a floating rotor adapter that puts the disc in the correct location.    Fun fact: Stock E30 M3 front rotors are 284mm, rear 250mm. I'll be running 330 front, 280 rear NitroSpazzz fucked around with this message at 10:44 on Jul 4, 2017 |
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Jul 4, 2017 10:34
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Talked to the M3 group, seems this is a common issue though not specifically with the calipers I'm running. They recommended have a set of custom hats/bells made to adapt the AP discs or seeing if someone makes one with spacing that could be bought undrilled and made to fit. Coleman Racing out of Michigan was recommended several times and it looks like they do a lot of custom work for people. I'll take some measurements and see how much  a set of custom hats will be. Solid mount option on this PDF should take care of my needs. http://www.colemanracing.com/Assets/file/Custom_Rotor_Mount_Hat.pdf
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Jul 4, 2017 21:22
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Why not ask AP?
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Jul 4, 2017 22:49
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I've sent them an email, will see what they say
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Jul 4, 2017 23:24
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Coleman racing is relatively low buck and good quality. Almost anyone else worth using will be worse money.
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Jul 5, 2017 00:16
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Bit of a dilemma... Rotors will be at the cheapest (I've found so far) £305 (~$400) shipped from the UK, they aren't sold in the US according to one distributor. Of course that distributor was also asking $335 per rotor. Then whatever is costs for Coleman to make me a set of custom hats. Using the existing calipers and mounts. This gets me 280x9.6mm in the rear. Should work as long as I don't screw up any measurements. Other option is something like this http://www.massivebrakes.com/brake-systems.php?p=e30M3_rear_300_SL4R 300x32mm, Wilwood superlite calipers and hats made to fit. Massive is very well respected in the M3 world and great customer support, he's even helped me figure out some things for my current brake issue. 1050 maple bucks is around $810 USD New my calipers sell for around $325 so if I'm lucky I could sell the set for say $500 or something to recoup some of the cost. Will wait for quote from Coleman before I decide anything but that's the options I'm looking at now. On the upside before running into this I have the front hard lines done, rear hard lines nearly done and just need to bend the long hard line going from the rear master to the 4-way behind the rear bulkhead.
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Jul 5, 2017 18:29
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Whose rotors are they? How much are they quoting for shipping? Could one of us send them out to you for less?
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Jul 5, 2017 18:40
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Coleman does solid rotors too. $335 per rotor for solid rotors is ridiculous.
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Jul 5, 2017 18:46
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Rotors with Coleman hats would be AP Racing 280x9.6mm https://www.apracing.com/product_details/race_car/brake_discs/solid_discs/%C3%B8280mm/9.6mm_thickness/176.8mm_p.c.d.-bolted-cp5000-177.aspx But any rotor of that size would work, I need to see what the smaller formula cars run because I may be able to find something more readily available in the US. You'd think a simple thin blank like that would be comparatively cheap. I found them on http://www.burtonpower.com/ for ~$170 a piece which still isn't cheap but cheaper than the other place quoted me. Demon-Tweeks website is being fucky today so I can't see what their pricing is, kind of sick of their vague as hell ship times and additional $40-50 on everything though. Coleman one piece rotors are another option but I think I may be over the 2.75" max height with how far back these will need to sit.
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Jul 5, 2017 20:27
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If you want anything AP, give Techcraft Motorsport in Warwick a try. I do have an email for the guy there which I can PM you if you want, but his number is 01926 403721, just account for the time difference if you call. Small company so bit more personal to deal with. I'm afraid that trying to send lumps of metal across the atlantic is always going to be somewhat eyewatering cost-wise, though on the flipside you shouldn't have to pay our 20% sales tax. Certainly, it seems that what you really need is someone in the US who makes blanks which they'll drill to suit for you, even if it's a bit pricey, it might well be less than what you're looking at here.
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Jul 5, 2017 21:14
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NitroSpazzz posted:Rotors with Coleman hats would be AP Racing 280x9.6mm https://www.apracing.com/product_details/race_car/brake_discs/solid_discs/%C3%B8280mm/9.6mm_thickness/176.8mm_p.c.d.-bolted-cp5000-177.aspx OK, those are 11" diameter by 3/8" thick with the standard 8x7" PCD mount... so metric looking but not really. Formula Continental is almost universally about 10" diameter and usually 6 bolt, so that's no good, and Atlantic is going to be vented. Coleman's custom bolt mount solid rotors are here http://www.colemanracing.com/Brake-Rotor-14-12-Custom-Solid-Mount-P4592.aspx ... so that's any size between 1/4 to 1/2" thick, diameter up to 12 3/16", any bolt pattern, for about a hundred bucks, and that's for still hat mounted. *quickedit* If you didn't have the rear calipers I'd be tempted to go to 11x0.81" vented rotors because that ironically makes the consumable cost cheaper. mekilljoydammit fucked around with this message at 21:36 on Jul 5, 2017 |
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Jul 5, 2017 21:32
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Demon Tweeks' website is always fucky, real bad website that one!
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Jul 5, 2017 21:41
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To add another option to the mix I talked to someone this morning running E46 M3 rear rotors and calipers, all that's needed is a bracket to mount the calipers. Seeing as calipers can be had for ~$200 a set (all four) and rotors are under $100 a pop this might be the way to go. Waiting on a reply for more info on the brackets.
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Jul 6, 2017 11:41
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NitroSpazzz posted:To add another option to the mix I talked to someone this morning running E46 M3 rear rotors and calipers, all that's needed is a bracket to mount the calipers. Seeing as calipers can be had for ~$200 a set (all four) and rotors are under $100 a pop this might be the way to go. Waiting on a reply for more info on the brackets. That seems a lot more reasonable. The prices you were posting for solid rotors were just silly. Personally, I wouldn't run solid rotors on anything racy that needed to stop more than once, anyway, even on the rear (disclosure: not a brake or racecar expert). edit: capitalization, or lack thereof.
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Jul 6, 2017 16:31
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If I was in your position I would sell the ap calipers and get a bbk from someone stateside to access cheaper consumables with less lead time. Also, the rotors on those AP racing calipers seem kind of thin for what you have planned here.
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Jul 6, 2017 17:07
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NitroSpazzz posted:To add another option to the mix I talked to someone this morning running E46 M3 rear rotors and calipers, all that's needed is a bracket to mount the calipers. Seeing as calipers can be had for ~$200 a set (all four) and rotors are under $100 a pop this might be the way to go. Waiting on a reply for more info on the brackets. I have a set of CSL front and rear calipers that I took off the Z4M, already upgraded with brass guides, complete with braided stainless lines. PM me if you're interested, I will cut you a super Goon deal on them.
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Jul 6, 2017 19:10
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