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AI, meet Kenzie...a 1964 GMC 910 (Canadian C10)...4x4... Seller's photo   Interior photo.  Engine bay. So much space!  How she sits now Specs: -Smallblock 350 - PO claimed it was from a 69 Camaro SS, but we all know they tend to be full of poo poo...casting numbers show its from a 1970 Caprice, but I don't know if it's a 2 or 4 bolt main. -4 speed manual trans (SM420 or 465) -Rockwell T-221 Transfer Case -Edelbrock 4 barrel carburetor, with electric choke. -Short wheelbase, step side (started life as a fleetside), metal bed floor -3.73 gears -Dana 44 front axle with closed knuckles. Unique stuff: - Stainless steel bumpers - Stainless steel fan shroud - Stainless steel battery box - Stainless steel glove box liner - Stainless steel cab corner guards - 35 gallon (160L) stainless steel gas tank, relocated under the bed. My plans: Resto-mod it, and drive the hell out of it. I have my suspicions that the frame has been swapped (either with a 64 4x4 frame, or some sort of Blazer/Jimmy frame). Resto-mod will include swapping in seats from a 99-06 Silverado/Sierra, new wiring harness, changing the trans (I'm thinking the AX-15 from a Cherokee, because it can take the power of the 350 smallblock, and you can buy adapters to do so from Novak), swapping in an 86 Blazer front axle (which will give me disc brakes) and changing the colour. I've posted up on the 67-72 Truck forums, but I've been in AI longer (and this forum moves quicker). I've already ordered and replaced stuff from LMC, Classic Industries, and RockAuto. Is there anywhere that has better prices or selection? I've already done new battery, new coil, electronic ignition, and starter. The tires that were on it were super hard/dry rotted, so I did rims and tires at once. The PO flushed the rad, changed the fuel pump and filter, did the heater hoses, and put in new grease fittings. In terms of her history, the guy I bought it from only had it for a few months, because he found out it bugged his back and didn't drive it. I think whoever had it before him restored it and did all the customizing. Unfortunately, she sat for I'm thinking at least 5-10 years outside. Water got down the windows into the doors, so the bottoms of them are starting to bubble. Same for various other panels. It's a 20-foot paintjob, or as they say: "good from far but far from good". My dad picked it up for me back home but it died on him in the yard. I got it running again, did rims and tires, then drove her the 2,000km to where I live now. It was quite an adventure - especially because due to a wiring short it kept blowing fuses for the rear brake and signal lights. Progress will probably be kinda slow because of my setup and abilities, but like the title says I intend to keep it till it or I die!
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Sep 26, 2016 11:27
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Can I just say that's a rad loving truck?
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Sep 26, 2016 11:55
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bolind posted:Can I just say that's a rad loving truck? Yep. Great year, great stance, great color, not overly accessorized... that's a rad loving truck.
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Sep 26, 2016 11:58
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EVERYWHERE 
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Whelp I'm in love.
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Sep 26, 2016 12:26
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bolind posted:that's a rad loving truck meatpimp posted:that's a rad loving truck Siochain posted:Whelp I'm in love. My sentiments exactly Permission to come aboard, Captain
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Sep 26, 2016 13:14
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Beautiful.
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Sep 26, 2016 14:30
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Be a drat shame to change the color unless you're going to two-tone or something, that seafoam green looks drat good on a truck.
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Sep 26, 2016 16:55
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That truck's gonna make me cry, it's so pretty.
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Sep 26, 2016 16:59
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That truck rules.
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Sep 26, 2016 17:03
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Your truck sucks OP. It's awesome. What's a fleetside?
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Sep 26, 2016 17:50
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fleetside is a normal bed. Why a ax15 over a gm variant NV3500/3550? This truck owns. Love all the recent old fendermetal popping up lately
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Sep 26, 2016 17:57
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Cool truck, I love the current stance!
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Sep 26, 2016 18:05
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That's a loving awesome truck.Captain McAllister posted:
Honestly, whatever heads are on it are more important to how it drives / what kind of power it makes than whether or not it has two bolt or four bolt main bearing caps.
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Sep 26, 2016 23:48
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Liquid Communism posted:Be a drat shame to change the color unless you're going to two-tone or something, that seafoam green looks drat good on a truck. Yeah, I'd go two-tone. Medium/dark metallic blue, with a white or cream roof. And bedliner or something level with the bed step all the way along. cursedshitbox posted:fleetside is a normal bed. I'd also go the NV3500/3550 route, the question was just availability. There are quite a few 4.0L Cherokees with the AX-15 out there, I haven't found too many things with the NV transmissions (though, I'm open to suggestions as to where I could look). Also, it seems like you can run an AX-15 without needing a rear transmission mount, and my fab/welding skills are essentially non-existant. Astonishing Wang posted:Cool truck, I love the current stance! Cakefool posted:Your truck sucks OP. Seat Safety Switch posted:That truck rules. scuz posted:That truck's gonna make me cry, it's so pretty. Dagen H posted:Beautiful. Adiabatic posted:My sentiments exactly meatpimp posted:Yep. Great year, great stance, great color, not overly accessorized... that's a rad loving truck. ...What's that? More photos, you say?     I'd post more but Imgur is being finicky. Also, in terms of modifications, here are pics of two I hope to be making shortly:  Modern seats, with integrated seat belts.  Current seats - what the poo poo are these from? I want to say Chevy G20 van, but I can't find any that have the wooden cupholder on the armrest like that. Are these maybe a custom job?  West Coast Jr. Mirrors (ones like this with the visor were tricky to find).  My initial inspiration. IOwnCalculus posted:That's a loving awesome truck. Thanks for the info. I'm mainly thinking of a 4 bolt main because they have a reputation of being stronger. I'm not going to do anything crazy in the motor department, though, so maybe I'll be ok? Also, I remember your threads from wayyyyy back when you first got your truck. You, LobsterboyX, Ferremit, and Mooecow have all kind of been inspirations to do something like this. Glad to see you're working on getting your truck out of mothballs.
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Sep 27, 2016 03:49
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The main caps really only come into play in terms of how much crazy power you can make the short block live with - and anything that would break a two-bolt main would also undoubtedly demolish your pistons and rods first. Or, like the 350 I had, you'll increase compression, and increase blowby big time to go with it. It blew the drat dipstick out on the first long drive with the Vortecs. Fixed it with more breathers but that thing was just tired. Still ran for... 30k miles after that, I think. Still ran the same when it lunched the 700R4. So of course the answer was LS1 
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Sep 27, 2016 05:20
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There were a lot of companies offering "custom" pickups in the 80s and 90s (though if memory serves correctly, they dropped off in popularity in the mid 90s). They almost always had that style of seat, complete with the wood trim on the center console. I'd almost be willing to put money on that seat being from an 88-mid 90s Chevy extended cab with one of those fancy custom packages. I want to say a lot of them were done by Starcraft, which also had (and still has) their hand in a large number of conversion vans. Usually the custom part (on pickups) was a lot of wood trim, running boards and a body kit, different wheels, different seats, and window coverings, plus paint + striping similar to conversion vans. Sometimes lowered a bit vs stock height. Basically a conversion van, but in pickup form. A 70s-90s conversion van could also have that style seat, but they usually had 2 captains chairs instead, with a similarly wood-styled console + cupholder mounted to the doghouse (engine cover). They don't usually have the third seat in the middle, it would make it pretty much impossible to pull the engine cover without taking the seats out. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 06:40 on Sep 27, 2016 |
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Sep 27, 2016 06:32
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God, first-gen C/K's make me so damned hard...
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Sep 27, 2016 07:30
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Yep I am way jealous. That truck has so much going for it just in the condition that you bought it. Can't wait to see your modifications to it. I have a 1971 K20 Longbed that I daily drive ever since I got the 383 engine in it. My 2004 Tacoma sits home because the K20 is much more fun to drive.
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Sep 27, 2016 16:03
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Captain McAllister posted:Current seats - what the poo poo are these from? I want to say Chevy G20 van, but I can't find any that have the wooden cupholder on the armrest like that. Are these maybe a custom job? G-van based motorhome.
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Sep 27, 2016 16:53
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This looks god drat cool as hell
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Sep 27, 2016 16:58
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cursedshitbox posted:fleetside is a normal bed. I agree. NV3500s and NV3550s from GMs are pretty common, basically any 4.3L/5.3L 5 speed GM truck/SUV in the 90s I believe? Not 100% sure. You could also go NV4500 from a 2500 or bigger truck if you want, look for RPOs MT8 and MW3 (depending on year and donor) on the buildsheet/glovebox sticker. Given your T221 (I assume it's a divorce mounted case?) you might have some interesting things to deal with, remember that. IIRC you basically use a RWD trans and change the jackshaft that goes from it to the tcase? NV4500s in GMs have a 32 spline output shaft if 4x4, not sure what the RWD ones have. NV3500s/3550s I think all have 23 spline in chrysler/jeep/ram/dodge/srt land, but I don't know what the GM ones have, probably 23 or 27. I think your 420/465/whatever is probably 10 spline coarse? Novak's tech bible should tell you better than I can. Truck is rad as hell, BTW.
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Sep 27, 2016 21:38
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some texas redneck posted:There were a lot of companies offering "custom" pickups in the 80s and 90s (though if memory serves correctly, they dropped off in popularity in the mid 90s). They almost always had that style of seat, complete with the wood trim on the center console. I'd almost be willing to put money on that seat being from an 88-mid 90s Chevy extended cab with one of those fancy custom packages. I want to say a lot of them were done by Starcraft, which also had (and still has) their hand in a large number of conversion vans. Usually the custom part (on pickups) was a lot of wood trim, running boards and a body kit, different wheels, different seats, and window coverings, plus paint + striping similar to conversion vans. Sometimes lowered a bit vs stock height. Basically a conversion van, but in pickup form. Thanks - this also aligns with my theory that the truck was redone in the mid to late 90's, based on the colour, the stereo, the rims it had when I bought it, and the current level of rust. I love automotive archaeology. kastein posted:I agree. NV3500s and NV3550s from GMs are pretty common, basically any 4.3L/5.3L 5 speed GM truck/SUV in the 90s I believe? Not 100% sure. You could also go NV4500 from a 2500 or bigger truck if you want, look for RPOs MT8 and MW3 (depending on year and donor) on the buildsheet/glovebox sticker. Given your T221 (I assume it's a divorce mounted case?) you might have some interesting things to deal with, remember that. IIRC you basically use a RWD trans and change the jackshaft that goes from it to the tcase? ...if one guy were to explain AX-15s vs any other person, it would be you. I should have added that yes, the T221 is a divorced setup. According to the guy I bought it from, though, it leaked and so it was removed to be repaired (or not, I don't know which). Regardless, it's out of the truck. While it was out, someone decided to have the exhaust redone, and now this allegedly gets in the way of where the transfer case should mount up. Further to that, I only have 2 of the 3 driveshafts I need for the 4x4 setup. There's a place that will make them up for me, but I'm going to have to know what the output spline is from so I can get the right end(s) for the universal at the back of the trans. Another trans people put in is the T5 from a few different places. However, it seems that about half as many people who've swapped it have had problems with it (mainly from trying to do things like burnouts). While those aren't my style, I could see the transmission packing it in when I'm up a gravel road somewhere (leaving me more screwed than someone who was doing burnouts on pavement). I like the idea of the NV3500/3550 better than most as they 1) came from a truck 2) came from behind an sbc, 3) won't require the Novak adapter plate (which is around $400). I've also been told that AX-15s eat synchros (although, the 92 Cherokee I had for a year never had this problem). A buddy of mine has an 88 GMC stepside 4x4 for sale, with a 350, new manual trans and transfer case - $3500. While the price is tempting, and would give me everything I'd need, that's all the info he's provided me. Wikipedia (I know, I know) shows which trans etc. came in this generation of truck. However, it doesn't give me a breakdown as which trans came in what year. After a quick google, I found this page: quote:ChevyTalk Forums said: Wikipedia, again, offers: quote:In North America the NV3550 is used by Jeep with the 4.0L inline 6. It looks similar to and could be mistaken for the Dodge NV3500. However the Jeep NV3550 bellhousing bolts to the transmission case. Now, if my buddies truck has had the transmission replaced, maybe it had been one of these undesirable ones. However, I have no idea whether it was replaced with another POS or if they put in something decent. Finally, the Novak website says: Popular transmissions to replace the 3550 for higher performance Jeeps include the SM420, SM465, T18 and NP435 four-speeds. -- How is it that a 4 speed designed in 1947 is deemed an upgrade for something 50 years newer!? That's probably enough for now...I've forgotten what the spline count I need is! WhyNoOnePayMe posted:Yep I am way jealous. That truck has so much going for it just in the condition that you bought it. Can't wait to see your modifications to it. Thanks, I'm not planning anything too over-the top. Paint will probably be a while. I'm debating changing out the bumpers for a flat winch style one like the example I posted, and a rear bumper to match. It's definitely a bonus to me that this truck has already been redone once, when most of the other ones were a few thousand less but had been sitting in a field for 20+ years. I know exactly what you mean - since I bought this truck, I haven't really driven my '11 WRX and delayed finishing the balljoints in my '09 Silverado. Old vehicles just have so much more character and...soul?
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Sep 28, 2016 08:25
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Captain McAllister posted:How is it that a 4 speed designed in 1947 is deemed an upgrade for something 50 years newer!? Stuff built back then was designed to last pretty much forever. Modern stuff is designed with cost being the biggest factor. Though a 4 speed is kinda uncommon for that era.. Captain McAllister posted:Thanks - this also aligns with my theory that the truck was redone in the mid to late 90's, based on the colour, the stereo, the rims it had when I bought it, and the current level of rust. I love automotive archaeology. I didn't even notice the lower (inside) portion of the doors. That wood poo poo and 6x9/5x8 speaker setup is definitely an 80s-90s custom truck or conversion van transplant. What stereo does it have? The little bit I can see of it looks more like 2010s. Maybe late 2000s.
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Sep 28, 2016 08:56
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Usually people go NP435 or SM465 or SM420 for the low granny first gear. Great for rock crawling. People who do that usually are not intending to do highway speed with their 35"+ mud tires, so no overdrive isn't really a dealbreaker. The AX15 is pretty alright, synchros go at high mileage if someone shifted like an idiot or used the wrong fluid (high sulfur EP lubes vs brass/bronze synchros = no bueno) and it gets blamed on the trans. I saw a lot of people poo poo talking the AX15 years ago and saying they upgraded to an NV3550 (which is a close cousin of the NV3500 but as noted the BH bolts on, in fact it uses an AX15 BH) but now people are poo poo talking the NV3550 and saying they upgraded to an AX15. My personal opinion is that they are both fine trans good to about 300 foot pounds input, and your experience with one will depend on what fluid was run in it and how it was treated by the 3 owners before you got it from the JY. Rebuild kits are a few hundred if it turns out to have some bum synchros, I got my AX15 rebuild kit for like 250 from crown automotive's local factory outlet store.
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Sep 28, 2016 14:17
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It's been a while, but I've still been working on the truck. I've been gathering parts for various things (like parts for the 1986 Blazer axle I have to swap on, which will get me open knuckles and disc brakes). New drilled and slotted rotor. This bastard's gonna STOP! I've got some issues to sort out with fuel, too. The tank is stainless, but the truck has been surging or even cutting out randomly. There could still be crap in the tank somehow - I'm going to put on a clear fuel filter and new fuel line (I've read that aged lines can collapse under vacuum - like, say, under acceleration). The last time the truck cut out (fortunately only about 1km from home), the neighbour towed me home after adding fresh gas didn't get me anywhere - literally. I pulled the distributor assembly to clean the cap and check the electronic ignition, and didn't remember where the distributor was pointing. Sooo I've been timing an engine for the first time - a facebook group for these trucks suggested pulling the driver's side valve cover, and watching for when the intake valve has just closed. Motor is timed (roughly) to TDC, but I'm hearing it should be somewhere between 4*-8* BEFORE TDC? I bought a timing light, so I'll be back in business once I can figure out where the timing mark should go. My dad came out for a visit, and so we stripped the interior, cleaned up the floor a bit, and put on a coat of POR-15.  My dad's dog, Hobbes, wondering why the truck isn't going anywhere.  Old seats out.  First coat of POR-15.  Test fitting the new center seat section. This seat doesn't have a flip-down armrest, which meant that it was going to be too far forward to work properly, unless I spaced the crap out of the rear mounts. Fortunately, I was able to get a different center section, and used a Dorman replacement kit with a metal hinge to replace the broken plastic hinge.  Seats roughly bolted in after measuring a bunch of times to make sure everything was square. It all fits perfectly. I cleaned the new AND old seats and carpet with a rug doctor. I'm going to make up 3"x3" plates out of 1/8" steel for a little extra floor pan reinforcement. I just drilled the holes in the floorpan tonight. Might make up the plates tomorrow, and paint them as well as the floor. Because I'm 6'1", I'm going to get rid of the floor mounted gas pedal, and go to a firewall mounted one. Supposedly the mechanism out of a 90s GM truck is drat near bolt-in, so I'm going to hunt one of those down. I've heard about people using Peel and Stick roofing as an alternative to Dynamat, but the big-box stores 'round here haven't heard of it. I picked up some other stuff that's basically the same idea. I'm going to stick it in strategic areas to stop the floorpan 'drumming' some. I also pulled off the 90's Ford mirrors, to fit the West Coast Jr mirrors I picked up. However, it looks like I'm either going to have to bend the brackets I have (or make up new ones, without a welder) to make them work. It's that or bend the bottom tube, which I think would look goofy.  'New' mirrors mocked into place. I think I'm going to put some kind of lockable box in the back - I daily drive a 2009 Silverado, and it's nice to put groceries etc behind the rear seats...which I can't do in a regular cab. Also looking for some kind of bed mat (Princess Auto had some that are 5/8" thick, but are a few inches too narrow (livable) but about 6 inches too short...which wont be a problem if I have the bed box. I'm going to start saving my pennies for a decent AX-15 transmission, which are about $500-600 here. It's baffling. There's also the $400 Novak adapter plate, and I'll have to have driveshafts made up. I'm also looking into my wiring harness options. A lot of people go with American Autowire vs. Painless. However, they make harnesses for the Chevy trucks, not the GMC, and I want to make sure there aren't any big differences (for instance, the headlights). Those will eventually be getting upgraded to retrofit 5 3/4" housings, with modern H4 bulbs - none of this sealed-beam garbage. That's it for now.  Hobbes is also unfamiliar with how people on creepers can appear from underneath vehicles... Captain McAllister fucked around with this message at 10:03 on Nov 4, 2016 |
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Nov 4, 2016 09:39
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Stuff built back then was designed to last pretty much forever. Modern stuff is designed with cost being the biggest factor. Though a 4 speed is kinda uncommon for that era.. Plus building 500k transmissions is cheaper then 50k when it comes to overhead. That is why autos are better now.
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Nov 4, 2016 10:31
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Captain McAllister posted:Also looking for some kind of bed mat (Princess Auto had some that are 5/8" thick, but are a few inches too narrow Have you checked a tack/stable/horse supply shop? I got a bunch of heavy rubber mats for flooring in my workout room. Cheap, heavy, monstrously indestructible.
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Nov 4, 2016 11:26
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Seminal Flu posted:Have you checked a tack/stable/horse supply shop? I got a bunch of heavy rubber mats for flooring in my workout room. Cheap, heavy, monstrously indestructible. Called the local one today. I've been in there a bunch of times and have never seen one, but the lady who answered the phone said they have 9 of them. 4' by 6' by 3/4" thick for $70. Or for $90 I can get a 5' by 7' (most of which I'd have to cut off). Got a kick out of the 'specs' list: quote:Features: 100lbs seems pretty hefty, but the bed has a replacement metal floor so again the weight and thickness of that mat would probably quiet it down some. Same supply place (Peavey Mart) have ROK job boxes - trying to decide between the 36" one or the 48" one. When it's only a 6.5' bed, and a bed box takes up 2 feet....bed space is a bit of a premium. On another note, does anyone know anything about Speedhut gauges? I just came across them last night, and their GPS model intrigues me. Instead of hooking up to the trans/transfer case/whatever, it hooks up to a GPS antenna. Since I've changed the tire size of the truck, and will be going to an AX-15, it just seems easier to go to something like this that measures the speed of the vehicle, independent of all that stuff. Captain McAllister fucked around with this message at 02:47 on Nov 5, 2016 |
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Nov 5, 2016 02:40
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Dude, 500 bucks? That's stupid expensive. If you are going to be in the northeast anytime soon on vacation let me know when and I will see if I can source you one, the price would be between 50 and 130 dollars depending on where I find one first, and on the low end of that scale it's likely to need a rebuild kit you can get from a buddy of mine at the local crown automotive warehouse outlet store for $250 or so. poo poo I might even have a rebuildable one sitting in the basement. I need to take stock of how many I have (I seriously have at least five or six sitting around, maybe more, either in or out of jeeps, in running, rebuildable, or parts-donor condition) before I commit to that though. I had more but I gave one to iForge last year for AISS after pulling it apart, inspecting it, cleaning all parts and reassembling w/ new seals  I bought one of the ones in my collection right now for 150 bucks - with an NP231 tcase included, on a whim, because I happened to be going by the guy's town that night and I knew I could use it or sell it for more. IIRC, I don't even really have any plans for it. Only thing I can't guarantee is what bellhousing it will or will not have, I am short on 4.0L bells and I'm not sure what one the adapter kit wants to work with. If you aren't going to be out here anytime soon the offer is still open, but you should probably plan on arranging shipping, I'm bad at that. If you don't need a bellhousing included I can probably crate it up easily enough and give it to UPS/fedex, if you do, you're gonna have to arrange it.
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Nov 5, 2016 03:53
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Here's the only clear write-up I've been able to find on the swap: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=475370, and here's the link to the Novak adapter: https://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/adapters/engine-to-transmission/ax15/kit-gmax15/ I haven't been able to figure out why he explicitly used a 2wd AX-15 (which seem much harder to find). Any thoughts? Do they have different spline counts? Shifter positioning? Overall length? Edit: Google is my friend. Looks like 2wd version has a tail cone and longer main shaft with a different spline count (output shaft on the 2wd tranny is 22 5/8" long and the 4wd is only 16 1/8). I'll keep digging. http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/difference-between-2wd-ax15-4wd-ax15-60226/ Also, on somewhat of a whim last night, I found a guy parting a Cherokee about 1.5hrs away. He has what he says is an AX-15 from a 1989, but with an internal slave and 3/4" pilot tip. From (I think the Novak site on the AX-15), 89's had a different size pilot tip than the 92-99, which also went to an external slave cylinder (which I'd like to have, solely for maintenance purposes). This might take some doing, however, as the truck currently has a mechanical clutch. Double edit - moot point, he no longer has the trans. Captain McAllister fucked around with this message at 17:51 on Nov 5, 2016 |
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Nov 5, 2016 17:37
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Captain McAllister posted:Called the local one today. I've been in there a bunch of times and have never seen one, but the lady who answered the phone said they have 9 of them. 4' by 6' by 3/4" thick for $70. Or for $90 I can get a 5' by 7' (most of which I'd have to cut off). Yep, sounds similar to what I bought. Mine are 4'x6' with a check plate pattern on top with a grooved bottom (probably to keep the urine from pooling ). They are heavy as hell and take a sharp razor knife and a lot of rear end to cut, but they won't move when you put them down.
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Nov 5, 2016 18:08
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I love the truck man, awesome thread. Can confirm, livestock mats are tough and heavy as balls, though I use them for their intended purpose.
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Nov 5, 2016 18:32
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Captain McAllister posted:Here's the only clear write-up I've been able to find on the swap: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=475370, and here's the link to the Novak adapter: https://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/adapters/engine-to-transmission/ax15/kit-gmax15/ The significant differences: - 2wd has a long conical tailhousing - 4wd has a flat flange that mates to an NP231's bolt pattern - 2wd has a speedo drive helix gear on the output shaft - 4wd does not - 2wd is a long 27 spline shaft to match the tailhousing length and standard jeep 27 spline slipyoke - 4wd is a short 23 spline shaft to match the tailhousing length and NP231 input gear - 2wd seal diameter is designed to ride on either the output shaft directly (96+ maybe) or the slipyoke (95- or the whole production range, not sure) e: year splits. 91 down use the 15mm pilot tip, 92 up use 3/4" pilot tip. 93 down (yes, this means 92-93 are weird due to the combination of these two splits) are internal slave and 94 up are external. I believe that's it. Basically it's because AX15s never came in a vehicle with a divorce mounted transfer case, they all came in vehicles with the tcase bolted straight to the rear end end of the trans. So the difference is significant. There may even be a second mainshaft support bearing or slipyoke support bushing that approximates such a thing in the 2wd version, since the 4wd unit relies on the NP231 input shaft bearing to support the mainshaft somewhat. None of mine are 2wd, but they're not uncommon in pov spec dakotas at the local yards.
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Nov 5, 2016 20:13
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kastein posted:The significant differences:   Of COURSE...now I feel pants-on-head-retarded. I'm so used to the thought of this truck being a divorced setup that I forgot that modern stuff would be married... The truck currently has a divorced Rockwell T221 setup. Might keep that, depending on the driveshaft length/angle from the end of the AX-15 to the t-case. If I ditched it and went with a 231 married setup, I dunno what the clearances would look like...do 231s have a shaft on the passenger side for the front axle? In other news (and to get away from talking about trannies  ) it was unseasonably warm weather here today, so I took the chance to push the old girl out into the driveway to fiddle with timing etc, instead of stinking up my garage.Once in the driveway, I pulled the old metal fuel filter out, and swapped it for a see-through plastic one. Of course, once I ran the new 3/8" line to the tank, I found out the hard way that someone had used a 6" length of the next size up fuel line to go from the tank to the filter. While getting fuel all the way down my forearm(s), I managed to wrestle the 3/8" line onto the tank output. Figured it'll work to get fuel to the engine to fiddle with the timing, but I'll get the 'right' stuff the next time I'm down at the parts place. Do they make 'taps' (like a motorcycle petcock?) for stuff like this? That way I could swap lines/filters in the future without getting a gas bath. It might also make an anti-theft device. Anyway, new filter in place. The foam and zipties are to help keep it from drumming or rubbing on anything it shouldn't (once I get the proper tank to filter line, I'll get it out of the way, somehow. I have no idea what that canister is, it's not hooked up, never has been, and has no electical contacts going to it.  New fuel hose routing (don't even ask where the old one ran), this will keep it away from suspension bits that move up/down/around:  Old fuel filter. No idea what that is, but I'm pretty sure it explains why the truck started cutting out at higher revs:  Since she was outside, she also got a bath. My preferred method of getting under the hood involves using the front bumper as a ladder/stepstool. However, when I'm leaned over with my foot on the bumper, and my upper body over the block, I'm always painfully aware that my foot could slip, my shin would crack into the front end and I'd fall face first into the engine to add insult to injury. I threw a few pieces of Gator Grip tape on the front bumper, and it has worked really well (so far).  Oh, and I finally thought to take a pic of the stuff I'm thinking of using as cheap dynamat:  With the timing, I set the timing to TDC. However, the engine seems happier to be at between 4*-8* TDC. When it ran on high idle (electric choke), the timing mark was way above the little notched scale. I then found that (once warm), it needed a little throttle to idle happily. I adjusted the little screw that pushes on the linkage (the equivalent to keeping your foot slightly on the pedal). I also put on a new length of vacuum advance line. However, when I go to rev it (like I would to kick it out of high idle), it dies, and will even backfire through the carb(!). When it did this, and I went to shut it off, it dieseled for a moment or two, then had another little *pop* through the carb. After a little bit more fiddling, I nursed it back into the garage. I messaged my dad with what could be up, and he suggested the vacuum advance. I pulled the hose off the carb (engine off), and sucked on the line. I didn't hear anything inside the advance make a noise...should I replace it? I also took the dizzy cap off, and spun the distributor. When I let go, the springs snapped it back into place. What could the issue be?
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Nov 7, 2016 05:05
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Captain McAllister posted:
I used a similar material for my own truck and it worked really well, some of them i checked out had a heavy asphalt smell that got worse once they got warmer though. Depending on how much you plan on doing, you need a surprisingly large amount of material. I ended up using 3 rolls of 12" x 30' and 1 of 6"x30' and still haven't done the back of the cab, just the floor and doors. 
Powershift fucked around with this message at 05:25 on Nov 7, 2016 |
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Nov 7, 2016 05:22
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Captain McAllister posted:
NP231s in jeeps are driver side front diff, and they are chaindrive with an oil pump and pickup so you can't flip them easily unfortunately. that being said, a dana 300 behind an AX15 is almost trivial (buy a cheap clocking ring if you even need one) and d300s with the right bolt pattern (round, not texas) are 150 or so around here. They are natively passenger side front diff, but can be flipped either way on a beer and shoestrings budget. So you could really quite easily go either way. 2wd jeep AX15s aren't really in demand though, let me see if I can find one cheap. I saw a 4wd NV3550 (basically an NV3500 but set up by NVG to drop in where an AX15 was supposed to go with only slight driveshaft length adjustment) come up for 150 bucks recently. If it wasn't 2 hours from home it would already be in my basement hoard. Seriously, trannies are everywhere out here.
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Nov 7, 2016 06:01
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Captain McAllister posted:he suggested the vacuum advance. Just to make sure, you are setting your base timing with the vacuum advance unplugged, right? It'll throw you off if you don't. The motor might want more timing, depending on what's in it. How much mechanical advance is your distributor set up for? My Vortec wants a lot of base timing and not so much advance so it doesn't ping, but yours might be (and probably is) different. Also, I usually don't explicitly set the base timing to a particular number, I rev it up and set the all-in amount (38 degrees in my case, you might want a little less than that. maybe start around 34 degrees?), again with the vacuum advance unplugged. Then the base timing will be however much less (about 12 degrees in my case, but probably much more than that for your motor) as determined by the mechanical advance. The vacuum advance is active whenever there's little to no load on the motor, so it can throw off your numbers when you're running your engine in park/neutral. You should be able to tell if it's working by revving up the motor to a certain RPM, reading the timing, then doing the same with it unplugged. Should have more advance with it plugged in. I haven't noticed any difference in performance with the vacuum advance plugged or unplugged, as it will stop giving advance in high throttle (i.e. low vacuum) situations anyway, but it does increase your fuel economy when just putting around town.
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Nov 8, 2016 05:33
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Alright, it's been a little bit... Got the second coat of POR-15 on the floorboards, and covered up all the old holes in the floor except the ones I drilled for my seats. I also got my 'reinforcement' plates cut and drilled out of 1/8" thick metal stock. They're painted up, ready to go in. I managed to find some relays to wire in to the headlights as I've heard it's the best/fastest way to improve light output, no matter the bulb. Speaking of, I want to get away from sealed beam bulbs and do an H4 conversion. Looks like I'll be going with Hella E-codes when I can find the best price. Inner high beam headlights would likely be H1 bulbs, which has me scratching my head a bit in regards to wiring, because they're 1 prong but the wiring harness is set up for 2 prong. In the course of this all, I pulled the grille, and think I'll be getting new adjuster screws and retaining springs, otherwise aiming the new bulbs could be a bitch. The old headlight loom is garbage, but I think I found one from American Autowire for the 60-63 chevies that had 4 headlights. $65, comes with relay mod...kind of hard to say no, again I'm just worried about having to splice it to whatever new harness I get for the truck. I also sent an email to a company that makes trans mounts for swaps into the C10. I asked if there would be any difference in a 4x4. Guy told me they use the Energy Suspension transmission mount 3.1108g. Preliminary googling suggests this would work? I'll try to think of what else I've been up to. No photos until my computer and Imgur like each other again. Edit: oh yeah, set the timing. Undid the vac advance, and just went with what sounded right and didnt result in a pop back through the carb when I really blipped it. I also had to adjust the idle screw (should have thought of this months ago when i had to find the sweet spot on the gas pedal to get it to start). Been a while since I've fiddled with a carb. Captain McAllister fucked around with this message at 20:39 on Nov 27, 2016 |
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Nov 27, 2016 20:33
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Just wanted to say Im loving this truck. Wish we had stuff like this in New Zealand. In regards to a semi sealed H1 housings, Im pretty sure there is a terminal on the housing for the ground.
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Nov 28, 2016 10:03
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Dragging this back from the brink of the dead. I ordered up the Hella E codes from rallylights.com, who happened to be having a sale at the time. They're drat near drop in replacements for the old sealed beams. I need to clearance out the holes in the mounting plate for the high beam housings only, then paint them up and reassemble. I also got new springs/mounting hardware, and that American Autowire headlight harness. Not only am I crimping all the connections, but I'm also soldering the connectors on. I like to do poo poo right so it'll last another 50 some odd years. Progress has been slow, because while the garage is insulated it isn't heated, and it was -40*C there for a while, which of course means it isn't crazy warm inside. In regards to transmissions, I'm now thinking I may go with an NV3500 out of a 2wd S10/Sonoma with the 4.3L. I might have found one out of an 02 s10, but I'm reading stuff that says they have different shifter positions based on the year? Edit : I'm reading that there is a split in 97/98, where the 98+ ones have the shifter about 6-7" farther back, almost at the end of the tailshaft. Time to bust out a tape measure and make sure the shifter wouldn't hit my seats... After some googling, i found this site: https://core-shifters.com/pages/shifter-distances However, their estimate of shifter distance for my current muncie trans seems...off. By like 10". I'll crawl under the truck and see what my current bellhousing to shifter mount is, and go from there. Captain McAllister fucked around with this message at 12:27 on Jan 29, 2017 |
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Jan 29, 2017 04:59
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