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looks like plaid stitching to me.
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Jan 9, 2018 17:54
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Darchangel posted:I think he means all the damned crossing lines. That’s incredibly bad form in wiring diagrams. At least that one is in color, which helps quite a lot. Yes god drat it! I spent less than a minute looking at it and found 5+ routes which could have the majority of the corssings-overings uncrossovered!
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Jan 20, 2018 21:43
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It's lit, and it's pissed, goons. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L3DNMS3iueQ I have a loooooot of work to do tightening it up, but I took it for a spin around the lot. It REALLY wants to play. Next up: - Bleed brakes asap  - Lighting - Exhaust (gas smell comes standard, but I still need the burning hydrocarbons pointed outside the passenger cabin ====> )
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Feb 26, 2018 02:07
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Yessssssss! Nice to see this project coming along
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Feb 26, 2018 02:39
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Awesome!
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Feb 26, 2018 05:40
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Had it working, now it doesn't. No start, worried that the pin that fell out when I unplugged the ECU last time is like the crank or cam position sensor and it's causing everything to lock up because I re-pinned it in the wrong place on the W connector.  In better news, I have a core support again and an actual Intercooler mount. And the brakes and clutch are bled, so I have aaaactual pedal response again!  Without access to a drill press or anything fun at my apartment, I had to do with an angle grinder, my drill, a milk crate, some clamps, and my thick-rear end SMAW gloves.    I'll try to pop it over again once the battery gets off charge and I've verified that all my connections are tight and in the right spot. Kinda feels like the current going to the starter is grounding out somewhere, or just not hitting the starter with enough amperage to get the bendix erect; discovered the starter (+) post's nut was loose, allowing all the power feeds to jangle around (and probably arc) Waffle House fucked around with this message at 22:24 on Apr 8, 2018 |
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Apr 8, 2018 22:07
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Huh. Yeah, I guess the problem was that I didn't tighten all the power down on the starter (+) lug tight enough after R&R. Turns over just fine now!  I'll have a little shakedown tomorrow if the Z still feels willing. Waffle House fucked around with this message at 02:52 on Apr 9, 2018 |
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Apr 9, 2018 02:47
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Waffle House posted:Huh. Yeah, I guess the problem was that I didn't tighten all the power down on the starter (+) lug tight enough after R&R. Turns over just fine now! Woop! Video?
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Apr 9, 2018 12:10
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You're doing all this at an apartment? Godspeed and watch over you, good sir.
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Apr 9, 2018 21:05
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TQsVqrS-Jjo Video first. I didn't get a driving video, sorry, battery's not holding a charge or something fucky still. This thing moves with a loving quickness. I thought the power would be some kind of unmanageable, but it's really not. It's very go-karty. The small tuh-bos get it going quite quickly, but it isn't so much that the rear end goes squirrelly. A lot still needs to be cleaned up and bolted down, but it's encouraging how much haste it has on tap. A lot got done today; With my $7.20 scissor jack from the pick'n'pull, I can actually get the car up and do things like eyeball the toe, make sure the tie rods were cotter pinned (  Glad I caught that..), and make it track straight: After the test lap, I panicked because there was coolant on the ground. Oh god, oh god. Did it pop a freeze plug? Does that mean I'm blowing combustion into the coolant somehow? gently caress gently caress gently caress gently caress  ckfuckfuckfuckfuckfuckfu  fffffffffFFFFFFFFFFFFffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffff  fffffffoh it's just my IACV inlet. Hahahaha drat I'm kinda glad I checked. No poo poo I spent a few moments pricing out freeze plugs and head gaskets before discovering the hose was loose.  Next up: I really need some hood pins because that much blows going over speedbumps. Or maybe I reinstall the factory hood latch. As tough as running hoodless looks, it's a good idea to keep the weather out of your poo poo. Oh and an exhaust pipe because fumigating the passenger compartment via the shifter hole is not really cool or good  car Waffle House fucked around with this message at 04:48 on Apr 10, 2018 |
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Apr 10, 2018 04:27
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I'm in love with this car.
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Apr 10, 2018 05:13
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I'm in love with this car. It is loving rad. The paint really helps with the rad factor imo... Throw a bunch of cool and good newish poo poo inside to make it drive well, nice wheels. Bam. Cool as gently caress.
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Apr 10, 2018 09:23
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FUN FACTS: If your chassis ground points are all covered in, say, truck bed liner and 40 year old yellow paint, your car will have a hard time starting. I'd like to thank my Dremel tool and 100' extension cable for this scientific breakthrough.   Next up: Uhhhhh probably a little more shaking down. And bolting the battery into place so it doesn't fly around during spirited driving. And maybe figure out why my phone camera is in permanent tilt-shift mode Waffle House fucked around with this message at 02:26 on Apr 13, 2018 |
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Apr 13, 2018 01:51
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Lets make a goon pact right now to never repaint a Z. Sports cars from the 1970's should be beat to poo poo on the outside. Paging Lord of Garbagemen, please confirm.
bawfuls fucked around with this message at 07:39 on Apr 13, 2018 |
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Apr 13, 2018 07:35
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bawfuls posted:Lets make a goon pact right now to never repaint a Z. Sports cars from the 1970's should be beat to poo poo on the outside. Paging Lord of Garbagemen, please confirm. I can’t promise anything, but I will tell you a paintjob is waaaaaaay down the road from where I am right now. Cage and chassis repair FIRST. It looks better weathered Waffle House fucked around with this message at 08:07 on Apr 13, 2018 |
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Apr 13, 2018 08:05
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I'm of two minds on this. A S30 Z with perfect body work and paint is sexy as hell, but there is nothing wrong with the well worn look either.
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Apr 13, 2018 15:06
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bawfuls posted:Lets make a goon pact right now to never repaint a Z. Sports cars from the 1970's should be beat to poo poo on the outside. Paging Lord of Garbagemen, please confirm. Sorry sir, mine is getting a repaint to a factory 240 color also getting the subtle z kit , the extra room really helps with getting reasonable sized wheels on the car and with some other space constraints.
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Apr 13, 2018 21:07
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bawfuls posted:Lets make a goon pact right now to never repaint a Z. Sports cars from the 1970's should be beat to poo poo on the outside. Paging Lord of Garbagemen, please confirm. I have a 350z and I am buying a R32 GTR. My third car will eventually be a S30. The goal is to get it to look like this but swap a RB26 or VQ into it. The look is so perfect that I have to disagree on beat to poo poo being better than this. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ieONpxAXOMU
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Apr 13, 2018 21:28
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Whatever, I'll just be over here working on the ultimate sleeper.
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Apr 13, 2018 21:29
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Loanarn posted:I have a 350z and I am buying a R32 GTR. My third car will eventually be a S30. The goal is to get it to look like this but swap a RB26 or VQ into it. The look is so perfect that I have to disagree on beat to poo poo being better than this. Looks alright besides the wheels (too big and meh looking) and huge fart pipe. Dark blue or grey looks amazing on those cars. I like the patina look too, though. I'm for Z's, in general.
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Apr 13, 2018 21:51
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I'm not painting it for a while because I'm afraid the second I do that, I'll get into an accident
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Apr 13, 2018 23:19
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Loanarn posted:I have a 350z and I am buying a R32 GTR. My third car will eventually be a S30. The goal is to get it to look like this but swap a RB26 or VQ into it. The look is so perfect that I have to disagree on beat to poo poo being better than this. SR swap the S30
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Apr 30, 2018 07:07
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But why would you drop two cylinders? To pretend like you can't do a v-mount in front of/comprised of the stock radiator point? e: The SR20 is a fine engine
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Apr 30, 2018 07:23
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Waffle House posted:But why would you drop two cylinders? To pretend like you can't do a v-mount in front of/comprised of the stock radiator point? simplicity, and my bias haha. if you are going to use a jdm straight six jz all day
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Apr 30, 2018 08:29
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SquirrelGrip posted:simplicity, and my bias haha. if you are going to use a jdm straight six jz all day Why pay that drift tax? The Rbs can be had much cheaper, and alot of their issues can be fixed very easily. Within the swapped s30 community, after sbc 350 , rb 20 is the most popular swap. Engine was dirt cheap, reliable, made good power, and got good fuel economy.
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Apr 30, 2018 14:51
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SquirrelGrip posted:SR swap the S30 Counterpoint: straight 6 noises.
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Apr 30, 2018 15:03
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Olympic Mathlete posted:Counterpoint: straight 6 noises. True. I thought I didn't care that much about exhaust note until I heard what the Cayman/Boxter sounds like after dropping two cylinders. When the dust settles and the 3rd and fourth gen Caymans hit the bottom of their depreciation you can bet the third gens will be worth more just because they sound better. Cars are usually terrible monetary investments but are great emotional investments and when investing in emotion there are no half measures for many. This is while I think many people have very different tastes than I do in cars its their car and as long as they love it that's what really matters. Unless its a PT Cruiser. gently caress PT Cruisers.
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May 1, 2018 01:19
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Lord of Garbagemen posted:Why pay that drift tax? The Rbs can be had much cheaper, and alot of their issues can be fixed very easily. Within the swapped s30 community, after sbc 350 , rb 20 is the most popular swap. Engine was dirt cheap, reliable, made good power, and got good fuel economy. Noticing less and less of a tax here for awhile now, parts are getting cheap. Complete cars less so. RB20 would be good, and I’m guilty of forgetting it’s still an rb all the time. I saw 26 and did not think cheap. We have bulk rb30’s though?
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May 1, 2018 09:27
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SquirrelGrip posted:Noticing less and less of a tax here for awhile now, parts are getting cheap. Complete cars less so. Oh ya stateside, 2jz's are 6-7k, rb26 around 4k, rb25 vary greatly, 1jz are creeping up to 2-3k, rb20 1k.
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May 1, 2018 16:10
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Lord of Garbagemen posted:Oh ya stateside, 2jz's are 6-7k, rb26 around 4k, rb25 vary greatly, 1jz are creeping up to 2-3k, rb20 1k. Figured you were USA when I saw sbc, daaamn that’s steep after conversion Stock 1j is around 800-1000aud, 2j around 2k Spare sr’s are about 400 without hot or cold sides, sometimes less Rb’s are comparable but I could buy a whole r33 for under 5k for track duty, I just don’t own a rb engined car so don’t gently caress with them that often
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May 1, 2018 23:47
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NA 2Js should be pretty cheap, though.
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May 2, 2018 04:54
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Wrar posted:NA 2Js should be pretty cheap, though. I got one with a free car thrown in for £350.
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May 2, 2018 14:21
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I 100%, absolutely went with the 1J/R154 combination in case I spun a bearing or threw a rod, because then it’s 1.5JZ time. Also I can get JZ parts from Autozone, which I don’t think I can for the RB.
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May 2, 2018 17:43
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