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is motorcycling awesome
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Neo_Crimson
Aug 15, 2011

"Is that your final dandy?"

Sagebrush posted:

Yep, that's the correct way.

It feels weird at first cause you're like huh? This lever feels like it's just flopping around and is about to fall off??? But that's correct.

The bike is brand new, and I didn't have this problem with my old R3 which was also brand new when I bought it, so I think someone at the factory or the dealership just hosed up and over tightened the clutch cable.

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knuthgrush
Jun 25, 2008

Be brave; clench fists.

continuing my blogging here because i'm a stupid newbie on the motorcycles :chloe:

so the 3 other bikes i've been on (in very recent history), i took to nearly immediately and was able to come off the line smoothly or work the friction zone in a parking lot. with my xr150, i just can't seem to come off the line smoothly and the friction zone is really hard to find. it's almost like the clutch is an on off switch rather than something analog. i've got to let it out almost 75%-80% or more from fully depressed before it ever engages in any tangible way. the lever doesn't feel loose or anything, it's just got a long rear end throw i suppose.

shifting beyond going from 1st to 2nd is no problem, it's just the initial takeoff or while trying to maneuver using the friction zone. i've only stalled it once or twice in 60ish total miles of stop and go traffic but it takes me forever to get moving from a standstill. i'm sure that feeling of time is stretched but i'm definitely sitting there for like four or five seconds before i get off the line. should i have it tightened or just keep doing laps through the neighborhood stop signs and parking lots until i figure it out?

knuthgrush fucked around with this message at 07:26 on Jun 2, 2023

Russian Bear
Dec 26, 2007


How much throttle are you giving it, before letting the clutch out?

knuthgrush
Jun 25, 2008

Be brave; clench fists.

Russian Bear posted:

How much throttle are you giving it, before letting the clutch out?

That's a hard question to answer. I'm not wringing it out and I'm also pulling it a fair amount. I don't start moving for that time, I'm just standing still. When the clutch finally engages, my takeoff is smooth and at a reasonable speed. "Enough to make it go", I guess?

Neo_Crimson
Aug 15, 2011

"Is that your final dandy?"

knuthgrush posted:

continuing my blogging here because i'm a stupid newbie on the motorcycles :chloe:

so the 3 other bikes i've been on (in very recent history), i took to nearly immediately and was able to come off the line smoothly or work the friction zone in a parking lot. with my xr105, i just can't seem to come off the line smoothly and the friction zone is really hard to find. it's almost like the clutch is an on off switch rather than something analog. i've got to let it out almost 75%-80% or more from fully depressed before it ever engages in any tangible way. the lever doesn't feel loose or anything, it's just got a long rear end throw i suppose.

shifting beyond going from 1st to 2nd is no problem, it's just the initial takeoff or while trying to maneuver using the friction zone. i've only stalled it once or twice in 60ish total miles of stop and go traffic but it takes me forever to get moving from a standstill. i'm sure that feeling of time is stretched but i'm definitely sitting there for like four or five seconds before i get off the line. should i have it tightened or just keep doing laps through the neighborhood stop signs and parking lots until i figure it out?

Uhh this sounds like the exact problem I was describing with my bike. How much slack is in the clutch?

knuthgrush
Jun 25, 2008

Be brave; clench fists.

Neo_Crimson posted:

Uhh this sounds like the exact problem I was describing with my bike. How much slack is in the clutch?

I'll read back in the thread. The lever feels just fine to me when the bike is off. I can pull it all the way the the grip but not beyond. It's not floppy or anything. Seems to be about even distance out with the front brake.

knox_harrington
Feb 18, 2011

Running no point.

Adjusting the controls like this is a normal part of setting yourself up on the bike. Your brake lever will likewise be adjustable for reach BTW. As people have advised here you should adjust the clutch cable so there is a small amount (like 5mm) of travel before it starts to disengage. It sounds like on the other bikes you've ridden there is a lot of slack in the cable so the clutch disengages when the lever is pretty close to the bar.

Make sure there is a small amount of free travel on this bike and get used to it, lots of aspects of riding feel odd initially but are soon second nature.

knox_harrington
Feb 18, 2011

Running no point.

Also you can and should adjust the position of the levers on the handlebars so your wrists are at a natural angle.

knuthgrush
Jun 25, 2008

Be brave; clench fists.

I'll read back and make the clutch adjustments. The handlebars feel great where they are. Thanks a ton!

Invalido
Dec 28, 2005

BICHAELING

knuthgrush posted:

The handlebars feel great where they are.
This was pretty difficult to even think about while riding when I was a newbie, but also don't do what I did: I rode for a good long while (probably 5K miles) on my learner bike with ill-adjusted pedals. They were too high up for me, so I had to strain my foot upwards to cover the brake without pressing it, similar deal with the shifter making shifting suck a little bit ergonomically. As a consequence I became reluctant to cover the rear brake when needed, and even started to get sloppy with using it at all since it was uncomfortable. Once I realised this and adjusted the controls down a bit to fit me right my rear brake control improved and I was just a bit happier and more comfortable on the bike. I think it would maybe help to check pedal fit if you'd sit on the bike while stationary (with riding pants and boots on) with a buddy if available behind to balance the bike upright and just see where your feet like to be naturally when slid forward on the pegs to reach the controls, and try adjusting these accordingly as needed. This is a real simple job with a spanner or two, possibly included in the bike's tool kit if you don't have other metric spanners on hand. If you adjust, again don't be like me and forget to adjust the brake light switch at the same time and ride around with the brake light on constantly. I have been informed this can sometimes melt the light housing, which I luckily avoided.

knuthgrush
Jun 25, 2008

Be brave; clench fists.

Invalido posted:

This was pretty difficult to even think about while riding when I was a newbie, but also don't do what I did: I rode for a good long while (probably 5K miles) on my learner bike with ill-adjusted pedals. They were too high up for me, so I had to strain my foot upwards to cover the brake without pressing it, similar deal with the shifter making shifting suck a little bit ergonomically. As a consequence I became reluctant to cover the rear brake when needed, and even started to get sloppy with using it at all since it was uncomfortable. Once I realised this and adjusted the controls down a bit to fit me right my rear brake control improved and I was just a bit happier and more comfortable on the bike. I think it would maybe help to check pedal fit if you'd sit on the bike while stationary (with riding pants and boots on) with a buddy if available behind to balance the bike upright and just see where your feet like to be naturally when slid forward on the pegs to reach the controls, and try adjusting these accordingly as needed. This is a real simple job with a spanner or two, possibly included in the bike's tool kit if you don't have other metric spanners on hand. If you adjust, again don't be like me and forget to adjust the brake light switch at the same time and ride around with the brake light on constantly. I have been informed this can sometimes melt the light housing, which I luckily avoided.

foot pegs and controls also feel perfect to me. the riding position and bike height/setup/controls reach all feel like the thing was custom fit to me. it's just that drat clutch i'm having trouble with.

Geekboy
Aug 21, 2005

Now that's what I call a geekMAN!
I dragged my foot a few times and couldn’t shift in some new boots before I realized the shifter was too low on the Bonneville. Don’t be afraid of little adjustments.

knuthgrush
Jun 25, 2008

Be brave; clench fists.

Well solid advice, thread. I adjusted the slack on the clutch and it's doing fine. The only slipping now is my nerves at a busy traffic light.

Cactus Ghost
Dec 20, 2003

you can actually inflate your scrote pretty safely with sterile saline, syringes, needles, and aseptic technique. its a niche kink iirc

the saline just slowly gets absorbed into your blood but in the meantime you got a big round smooth distended nutsack

i didn't know the lower controls could be adjusted. I can't cover the rear brake without either pressing it or constantly dorsiflexing my foot. how do you do it? loosen the lever, rotate it, and tighten?

Invalido
Dec 28, 2005

BICHAELING

OMGVBFLOL posted:

i didn't know the lower controls could be adjusted. I can't cover the rear brake without either pressing it or constantly dorsiflexing my foot. how do you do it? loosen the lever, rotate it, and tighten?

On all bikes i've owned (all two of them, both japanese budget bikes, so I'm obviously not an expert at this with vast experience like some people here) there's a pushrod between the pedal arm and the brake master cylinder. The end is threaded so the length of the rod can be adjusted with a spanner or two. There's probably a separate adjustment for the brake light switch. Jam nuts are to be expected.
On the shifter side there's a turnbuckle type link with two threaded rod ends where one end is left-hand threaded so once the jam nuts are loose you can just spin the rod to adjust the length, which changes the angle of the foot control.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Invalido posted:

On all bikes i've owned (all two of them, both japanese budget bikes, so I'm obviously not an expert at this with vast experience like some people here) there's a pushrod between the pedal arm and the brake master cylinder. The end is threaded so the length of the rod can be adjusted with a spanner or two. There's probably a separate adjustment for the brake light switch. Jam nuts are to be expected.
On the shifter side there's a turnbuckle type link with two threaded rod ends where one end is left-hand threaded so once the jam nuts are loose you can just spin the rod to adjust the length, which changes the angle of the foot control.

This is the most likely scenario yeah, post a pic of your foot controls if you aren't sure

Vino
Aug 11, 2010
Went out riding today, and today was the first time I was more excited to ride than scared. It was really fun. I felt completely comfortable even in non-residential streets. But also I wasn't paying as much attention, and I was having to remind myself to check for dangers. E.g. one time I made it all the way into a busy intersection before I realized I hadn't checked to make sure all the red light cars were actually stopped, like I usually do. When you're just following traffic your brain just autopilots sometimes and forgets to do the extra safety checks.

I'm still having a problem with my right hand cramping up but I think it's because the gloves I bought are the most protective mondo safety racetrack gloves available and they are very thick and restrict motion somewhat, so I think my hand cramps because I have to hold those gloves closed. My hand is getting used to it though. I plan to dig into the data (hey do you like motorcycle crash/safety statistics?) and try to determine how much different types of gloves reduce crash injuries, and depending on the answer I might get a pair of lighter gloves for city driving. Same thing for boots, I'm still wearing my regular walking boots, I don't have motorcycle specific boots yet.

I also have noticed that when accelerating I tend to almost subconsciously lean forward and down. I'm not really doing it on purpose, more because it feels fun. Is that bad?

I'm keeping my outings brief and nearby for now (you know, when the wife wants peaches from Ralph's, who am I to say no? You gotta make the lady happy. What's that? You didn't want peaches? You wanted blueberries? ok brb) because despite the new confidence I don't feel the skills have caught up. But in a few weeks I think I'll be ready to try a longer ride, maybe to the beach or something.

Toe Rag
Aug 29, 2005

Vino posted:

I'm still having a problem with my right hand cramping up but I think it's because the gloves I bought are the most protective mondo safety racetrack gloves available and they are very thick and restrict motion somewhat, so I think my hand cramps because I have to hold those gloves closed. My hand is getting used to it though.

Which gloves? My Alpinestars track gloves felt too stiff and heavy at first, but they broke it very nicely and are my preferred gloves for any riding. Hopefully yours do as well!!

Vino posted:

I also have noticed that when accelerating I tend to almost subconsciously lean forward and down. I'm not really doing it on purpose, more because it feels fun. Is that bad?

This seems normal and fine to me. You're leaning forward to offset the inertia throwing you backwards while reducing your frontal area to the wind as well. Leaning forward probably also better engages your core.

Vino
Aug 11, 2010
If this isn't them it's pretty close https://shop.ducati.com/us/en/motorcycle-clothes/gloves/leather-gloves-speed-evo-c1.html

Toe Rag
Aug 29, 2005

Yeah those are basically some gloves made by Alpinestars for Ducati. Keep wearing them. They should start to feel nice soon enough. :discourse:

Vino
Aug 11, 2010
Kk. They are pretty dang hot though, I feel like if I stop to get gas they’ll be so drenched in sweat I won’t be able to get them back on

T Zero
Sep 26, 2005
When the enemy is in range, so are you
Your hand cramping might simply due to gripping too hard. Keep your elbows slightly bent and try maintaining contact with the bar pulling slightly upward with your fingers rather than pressing down with your palms. Think deadlifts instead of bench press.

Also check the angle of the brake lever (and clutch for that matter) relative to the bar. Is there a fairly straight line from your elbow to your knuckles, or does your wrist bend upward substantially to reach the levers?

Edit- Might be helpful: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xXiFtX3iMP4

T Zero fucked around with this message at 04:51 on Jun 4, 2023

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

Vino posted:

Kk. They are pretty dang hot though, I feel like if I stop to get gas they’ll be so drenched in sweat I won’t be able to get them back on

ride faster :getin:

Vino
Aug 11, 2010
I FAILED THE WRITTEN DMV MOTORCYCLE TEST :butts:

I thought I wouldn't have to take it because I took that course and I didn't realize there was a handbook to study from until like 20 minutes before I had to take the test.

There was a bunch of stuff on the test like

"If someone is merging onto a highway that you are on then should you"

"Speed up"
"Change lanes"
"Adjust your speed"

and the answer was "Adjust your speed" :|

I'm so angry I waited two hours at the DMV and now I have to go back tomorrow.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

I failed the written test twice :cool:

I still don't know what the speed limit is if you're towing a trailer with more than half of the laden mass of your motorbike

T Zero
Sep 26, 2005
When the enemy is in range, so are you
There are a few websites that have DMV practice tests online. You should check to see if there's one for your state. If nothing else, you'll have a more thorough read of the rules of the road than you would have otherwise.


Edit: Apparently "adjust your speed" is the wrong answer where I live



What is especially annoying is that our DMV doesn't do riding tests, so you have to submit your MSF completion certification, and they accept it from a neighboring state. But the rules are different where I took my MSF from where I got my license...

T Zero fucked around with this message at 23:05 on Jun 6, 2023

Cactus Ghost
Dec 20, 2003

you can actually inflate your scrote pretty safely with sterile saline, syringes, needles, and aseptic technique. its a niche kink iirc

the saline just slowly gets absorbed into your blood but in the meantime you got a big round smooth distended nutsack

i needed a second try but CA gives you three before making you come back tomorrow

Llewellyn
Jul 26, 2010
The classroom portion of my msf course ended with the guy reading down the test and going “uhh class, remember that the ideal lane position on a three lane roundabout is b3. Forgot to mention that earlier.”

Vino
Aug 11, 2010
Thanks for commiserating all, now I feel slightly less mad at myself


OMGVBFLOL posted:

i needed a second try but CA gives you three before making you come back tomorrow

They told me only once per day unfortunately, or else I would have gone to my car and read the entire manual before coming back in to take it again, and probably missed my whole day of work in the process.


T Zero posted:

There are a few websites that have DMV practice tests online. You should check to see if there's one for your state. If nothing else, you'll have a more thorough read of the rules of the road than you would have otherwise.


Edit: Apparently "adjust your speed" is the wrong answer where I live



What is especially annoying is that our DMV doesn't do riding tests, so you have to submit your MSF completion certification, and they accept it from a neighboring state. But the rules are different where I took my MSF from where I got my license...

In the time I had I took the example tests on the CA DMV website, and I did fine on them. :\ the actual tests were harder. I'll just be reading through the manual tonight and try again tomorrow.

Just so you guys don't think I'm exaggerating



This is from the handbook. They had this exact image on the test with approximately the three answers I said above. Please explain to me what "Adjust your speed" means and how it isn't completely ambiguous and therefore a poor test question.

I've been in this exact situation in a car many times and the best answer is to not adjust your speed, because if you try to be polite and slow down and the other driver is slowing down to get behind you then you both come to a stop and everyone is confused, and if you try to move ahead and the other driver is a speed freak and moves ahead too then they run off the road. Just chill and let them do whatever, turns out people never actually need help merging onto the highway. On a motorcycle I would probably do the same except watch to make sure they're not trying to merge into me, and if so be ready to maneuver.

OK I'm done I'll stop complaining.

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




My test guy yelled at me for dipping too low in the turns :c00lbutt:

I did however fail my car drivers test the first time for touching the curb on the parallel parking part

Toe Rag
Aug 29, 2005

Vino posted:



This is from the handbook. They had this exact image on the test with approximately the three answers I said above. Please explain to me what "Adjust your speed" means and how it isn't completely ambiguous and therefore a poor test question.

I've been in this exact situation in a car many times and the best answer is to not adjust your speed, because if you try to be polite and slow down and the other driver is slowing down to get behind you then you both come to a stop and everyone is confused, and if you try to move ahead and the other driver is a speed freak and moves ahead too then they run off the road. Just chill and let them do whatever, turns out people never actually need help merging onto the highway. On a motorcycle I would probably do the same except watch to make sure they're not trying to merge into me, and if so be ready to maneuver.

OK I'm done I'll stop complaining.

I think the idea here is the lug nut rule. You're the one who is going to get hurt, so actively make safe space for yourself, either by slowing down or speeding up. Don't just cruise into a crash. You could get boxed in, right? Or you make a last minute maneuver into an "open" space, and a car coming up from behind now plows into you, or another car is also changing lanes into the same space as you. Drivers really don't check their blind spots, and the blind spots are effectively bigger because you're smaller.

Whether I am on a city street or a freeway, I always make space between myself and the rest of traffic.

Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?
I passed my written test with a perfect score. I took it as a 28 year old who had been driving and riding dirt bikes for a while so I was comfortable.

In my riding test, I performed everything spot on. When the instructor described the emergency stop, he literally said "approach this first line at speed, in third gear, as fast as you feel comfortable. Only when you cross this line can you emergency brake using both brakes, and shifting down into neutral simultaneously while maintaining control of the bike and you can only put a foot down when you've come to a stop to show you successfully down shifted into neutral. You must stop before the second line. Do not try to cheat and come in very slow, coast or down shift early. you will not pass this test."

He was shaking his head when people would try to come in too slow. Well, maybe I was a little too comfortable because I came in pretty hot. Not like Evel trying to jump the fountains but on a TW200 in third gear I might have been doing 30mph. I came to the line, leaned back, got on both brakes right at threshhold. It tracked perfectly in a straight line with no skidding or swerving. My rear tire was juuuust wanting to lift when I stopped. I successfully shifted into neutral. Looked at the line, my tire was about 2" shy of the line without crossing over. loving nailed it. I looked back at my instructor and says "good".

The one I was most worried about was the figure 8. In Illinois you have to do a figure 8 in a box thats a little bigger than a single parking space, equal to about 1.5 spaces. I was so happy I picked a TW because it was the most upright and nimble. The cruisers all had trouble because the rake of the forks was really long and awkward. If you put a foot down or went over the line you failed the test. I was most worried about this but I practiced it enough that I was able to do my figure 8s at full lock using 3/4 of the room available. "Really nice!"

At the end of the day I was feeling confident. There were three people who had to leave the class early because they literally didn't look like they've ever ridden a bicycle before and just couldn't grasp a motorcycle. Two people dropped their bikes which was an instant goodybe. A few others could conceptually understand how a motorcycle works but only in a controlled parking lot environment. Put them on a road with any sort of stress/variables and they were going to be a huge liability.

My instructor brings everybody out individually to go over the test. I go out there and he congratulates me on my written exam. "perfect score, excellent"

"You're clearly very comfortable on a motorcycle and you listen well. Any feedback we've given you, you've taken it and improved with that feedback. I have zero worries about you riding on the road, but you were going too fast in the emergency brake test so I had to fail you."

"but you said as fast as I felt comfortable as long as I shifted into neutral, kept control of the bike, and stoped between the two lines, which I did"

"Yeah but you did it way too fast, I'm sorry but I'm sure if you take it again you'll pass no problem"

Just then one of the women who was still struggling with how to operate the clutch came away from the other instructor and was celebrating for passing. My instructor looks back and shakes his head and gave me my exam sheet.

"Just take the riding portion again, you'll be fine."

I was so pissed. It happens.

Geekboy
Aug 21, 2005

Now that's what I call a geekMAN!
I remember the question I had no idea how to answer on my written test was what to do when a dog tries to chase you.

Apparently you slow down a little and then rip it to get away.

I guess?

You’re not the first person to fail it and be a fine rider. You won’t be the last. Don’t stress it too much.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Why would you slow down for the dog first :psyduck:

Midjack
Dec 24, 2007



Slavvy posted:

Why would you slow down for the dog first :psyduck:

Taunt it so it's good and angry when the mailman shows up later, I guess. :cheerdoge:

Fluffs McCloud
Dec 25, 2005
On an IHOP crusade

Slavvy posted:

Why would you slow down for the dog first :psyduck:

If this is the dumb Oregon question...apparently it makes the dog change trajectory, then you speed up when it has no chance to adapt and overcome!

I think what I most enjoy about this question, is that, sure a motorcyclist probably has a decent sense of speed, trajectory, distance travelled, etc. But I like to imagine the rider doing one of those ridiculous math problems in this scenario: If Dog P is travelling on Vector F at speed M what percentage adjustments in Rider A's vector will achieve the greatest distance from the assault zone?

Fluffs McCloud fucked around with this message at 00:36 on Jun 7, 2023

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Good lord

Pie Colony
Dec 8, 2006
I AM SUCH A FUCKUP THAT I CAN'T EVEN POST IN AN E/N THREAD I STARTED
i think i heard that in my first msf class too. apparently the idea is that the dog realizes much faster it can't catch up to you and doesn't chase you as long. but i've never had the chance to try it

CongoJack
Nov 5, 2009

Ask Why, Asshole
Iirc the slowing down and then gunning it away from the dog thing is to gently caress with its timing so it doesn’t get the chance to bite you.

I failed the braking test as well. I didn’t understand how the test was being scored. Turns out in Washington the faster you are going the more distance you have to stop in. Once I understood that I passed just fine!

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Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Pie Colony posted:

i think i heard that in my first msf class too. apparently the idea is that the dog realizes much faster it can't catch up to you and doesn't chase you as long. but i've never had the chance to try it

Lol

CongoJack posted:

Iirc the slowing down and then gunning it away from the dog thing is to gently caress with its timing so it doesn’t get the chance to bite you.

I failed the braking test as well. I didn’t understand how the test was being scored. Turns out in Washington the faster you are going the more distance you have to stop in. Once I understood that I passed just fine!

Lmao

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