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Yeah, plugs actually make it far easier to hear sirens, horns, your own engine, etc over the wind noise. Never don't wear plugs.
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Mar 10, 2017 16:03
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Pooper Trooper posted:How about the 2017 Suzuki Van Van? I love its styling and it seems like a fun little bike to start with at 200cc and relatively low pricetag (around $4500 I think?) I would absolutely not spend $4500 on that - definitely get a Honda Grom (MSX125) or Kawi Z125 Pro if you want a little non-highway city bike, should be perfect for learning too. But for real just go used for a first bike, Ninja 250, CBF300, etc. Anything small and Japanese will be forgiving and very reliable - I would also make sure you get something with fuel injection. Carburetors are very annoying if you just want to go out and ride unless you live in a perpetually warm climate.
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Mar 10, 2017 16:15
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Voltage posted:I would absolutely not spend $4500 on that - definitely get a Honda Grom (MSX125) or Kawi Z125 Pro if you want a little non-highway city bike, should be perfect for learning too. I was gonna say if you like that and want to spend $4500, get a TW200 instead. And don't spend $4500 on it, spend $3000 max and the other $1500 on gear. But yeah, just get an EX250 or one of the ones that everyone keeps repeating too.
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Mar 10, 2017 16:59
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Re: V7 talk. I've had the V7 II for about half a year. A little over 3,000 miles so far. I've had no major issues. I have had to replace the cap on the master cylinder with one from a few models back. The new one is a poo poo design that leaks a bit of fluid. I've also had to replace the brake signal switch that sits right under that reservoir, likely related to the former. Or the bike was made on Tuesday. Either way, nothing major and I spent about $40 and my dealer is 20 min up the street. It's a cool bike. Probably too cool for me to use as my daily ride. You will attract more old men than you can handle. And you can spend less & get something zippier & modern like the FZ-07 or SV650. Here is what I really like about it: Looks cool as gently caress. Shaft drive. ABS & Traction Control. Huge gas tank, miles per gallon up around 50-60. 300 mile range. Easy to handle at 430 lbs. Engine oil is separate from the transmission oil which is separate from the shaft oil and it's a dry clutch. Good ol' V-Twin. Super relaxing bike to ride. Nothing on this bike is screaming at me twist my wrist and take off like a bat out of hell. Mostly because it can't. It's a good bike. But I'd only get it if it makes your pants tight & you can't imagine being on anything else. It's not the most practical decision at the current price point, even with the most recent drop down to $8k. Fender fucked around with this message at 18:05 on Mar 10, 2017 |
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Mar 10, 2017 18:01
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Pooper Trooper posted:Nice OP! Earplugs don't muffle all noise entirely (they usually cut about 20-30dB), and high frequency noises are muffled less anyway. You can still hear sirens and horns quite well, and it's significantly easier to pick them out when you're not deafened by the wind roar. So paradoxically, the ear plugs actually make it easier to hear the things around you that you need to. As noted, if you're commuting in the city at under 50mph and have a quiet exhaust you can probably get away without them, but I find it's much more pleasant all around to wear them all the time. Your field of view isn't limited at all by the helmet. When I'm looking straight forwards through mine, I can't see the edges of viewport on any side. You still need to keep your head on a swivel, though, always looking everywhere, because your blind spots are bigger (smaller mirrors and no central rear view). After I'd been riding on the crowded streets of San Francisco for a while, I started to be somewhat more aggressive about getting away from cars and trying to always maintain open space on every side, because no matter how alert you are, there's always someone somewhere who's gonna do something dumb. The licensing specifics depend on the state, but I haven't yet heard of a state where you have to take motorcycle lessons. Usually you go in, write a 40-question test, and get a learner's permit (no carrying passengers, no riding at night, can't go on the highway, that sort of thing) that entitles you to jump on a turbo Hayabusa and 12-o-clock it out of the parking lot. Most states do have at least a tiered system where you have to do a skills test to get the full license, though; the MSF course usually counts for part/all of that. Also, some states allow you to get a motorcycle license as your only vehicle license, while others require that you have a driver's license first and then the motorcycle endorsement is added afterwards like an air brake endorsement or whatever. I think the Van Van would be fine as a first bike, if you keep in mind the stuff about buying a new bike and immediately dropping it. $4500 is more than you need to spend but if it's in your budget and you like the bike, go for it. You will always pay a little more for retro styling because it's in fashion right now. The aforementioned Yamaha TW200 is a very similar bike (with more '80s styling than the retro-modern '70s style of the Van Van) that's been in production for like 30 years if you want to save some money. Voltage posted:Carburetors are very annoying if you just want to go out and ride unless you live in a perpetually warm climate. If your carburetors aren't clogged and the DSPO* didn't gently caress them up by trying to "tune" them, they're quite reliable. Yea a little harder to start in the cold but that's what the choke is for. *the "dumbshit previous owner", the guy who's responsible for everything wrong with your motorcycle Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 18:18 on Mar 10, 2017 |
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Mar 10, 2017 18:06
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Sagebrush posted:Your field of view isn't limited at all by the helmet. When I'm looking straight forwards through mine, I can't see the edges of viewport on any side. This is very much true, and the whole "helmet limits your vision" argument is stupid bullshit perpetuated by stupid bullshit weekend warrior cruiser pirates. With even the most budget of the budget full-face helmets made by a decent manufacturer (e.g., HJC) these days, your visibility is still so much better than in any given car because you don't have A-pillars or the entire back half of the car in your way. Furthermore, a decent set of mirrors will give you drat near 150 degrees of vision behind you, and that's flat mirrors. With mine properly adjusted, I can see the back end of a car on either side of me in the mirrors and the front end of said car in my periphery or direct vision if I glance over. Convex mirrors will give you more like 180 degrees. Sagebrush posted:You still need to keep your head on a swivel, though, always looking everywhere, because your blind spots are bigger (smaller mirrors and no central rear view). After I'd been riding on the crowded streets of San Francisco for a while, I started to be somewhat more aggressive about getting away from cars and trying to always maintain open space on every side, because no matter how alert you are, there's always someone somewhere who's gonna do something dumb.
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Mar 10, 2017 23:41
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Fender posted:Re: V7 talk. Literally this. I actually bought my V7 Special as my first bike and it's been great, long winter break notwithstanding. Of course, I'd been looking at old Guzzis for years and never pulled the trigger, because there's something about them that "makes my pants tight," so to speak, and I fully realize that I'm a massive dumb-dumb for immediately jumping on it, but the bike itself is fantastic. It will be the spark of conversation with shitloads of greybeards reminiscing about their old Guzzis (I don't know how but there's always one every time I get on the bike) and hipsters won't poo poo up about it (but let's face it, every V7 owner is a little bit hipster). The shaft drive was a big draw for me. It's an oddball that will make you end up learning a bunch of stupid trivia about the brand because outside of greybeards and hipsters it's still not very well known, but I love every second of it and wouldn't trade that for the world.
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Mar 10, 2017 23:59
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Pooper Trooper posted:Nice OP! They're good but the yuuge rear tyre makes them handle kind of weird. Honda take on the same thing: 
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Mar 11, 2017 00:38
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Pooper Trooper posted:How about the 2017 Suzuki Van Van? I love its styling and it seems like a fun little bike to start with at 200cc and relatively low pricetag (around $4500 I think?) Ever think about the TW200 from Yamaha? 
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Mar 11, 2017 07:53
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I have to say I really like the direction they're taking. And the TW is gorgeous 
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Mar 11, 2017 08:25
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Pooper Trooper posted:I have to say I really like the direction they're taking. And the TW is gorgeous The TW200 is a staple for the MSF courses, it's pretty neutral handling wise but can feel "odd" if you aren't used to the big chunky knobbies. Slow speed work, or on/off throttle work is great, though it would not be my choice if you are going on any road that's over 50MPH for any length of time. On the throttle long enough and it'll touch 70 OK, but you can tell it's not happy about the experience.
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Mar 11, 2017 08:50
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I did my MSF on a TW, it's a cool looking bike with big fat tires that you don't see that often. The most modern thing on it is the electric start. I did my test in November in a freezing wind so learning how to use the choke was mandatory. I loved how light it was, It ran over the 'bumps' you're supposed to stand up for like it was nothing. If you get on the throttle it will lift the front tire, but way slower than the the Yamaha dual sport others were riding. The Bad. The seat is hard as gently caress. Maybe that's a dirt bike thing but I got tired just sitting in the saddle. The single cylinder goes bub bub bub bub and rattles your genitals until you finally get to go, and then do it again. *ugh*. The brakes are awful with a drum rear, and you have to grip the front brake like your life depends on it, because it does. The levers and switchgear are cheap and you're going to break something, no wreck required. I kind of want one, Just for the big tires and low rpm torque the engine has. It's a shiftable scooter that can go offroad, and is probably a nice inner city bike, but the bub's, you're going to feel it.
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Mar 16, 2017 05:34
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A Loud Fart posted:I did my MSF on a TW, it's a cool looking bike with big fat tires that you don't see that often. The most modern thing on it is the electric start. I did my test in November in a freezing wind so learning how to use the choke was mandatory. I loved how light it was, It ran over the 'bumps' you're supposed to stand up for like it was nothing. If you get on the throttle it will lift the front tire, but way slower than the the Yamaha dual sport others were riding. You'd love a duke 640. All the comfort of a MX bike with one of the most punishingly shaky singles I've ever seen. 250's are a pleasant tickle by comparison.
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Mar 16, 2017 06:07
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Slavvy posted:You'd love a duke 640. All the comfort of a MX bike with one of the most punishingly shaky singles I've ever seen. 250's are a pleasant tickle by comparison. I want to ride/own a 640 someday. Just to know what it feels like to straddle a paintshaker set to 11 at the local hardware store.
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Mar 16, 2017 06:18
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It is very bad. Fun bike, but the vibes are seriously insane.
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Mar 16, 2017 06:29
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I fondly remember the first time I got down the street and around the corner, opened the throttle, then immediately turned around and went home to check if the balance shaft and god knows what else were all still the right way around. They feel genuinely broken even by thumper standards.
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Mar 16, 2017 07:53
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I had a bike about a decade ago, while in college. A 1984 Nighthawk 700. Looked terrible (one of the fairings even mysteriously disappeared while on a ride one day), but it was a god drat tank. And that was a good thing, because I was a poo poo rider; entirely taught myself, figuring out stuff like countersteering purely by trial/error. Went down a handful of times; never at speed, no injuries or real damage to the bike. I was so broke at the time I never took the MSF or had proper gear, and used my Dad's old 3/4 helmet. Anyway, sold the bike when I graduated, and kept telling myself that when I got a proper job I'd start over and do things the right way. Cue a decade of life getting in the way, but now I finally have the time/money to rejoin the fold. Took the course last August, and have a license. What is the generally agreed-upon procedure here? I'm assuming I should get gear first, and then buy a bike, but how do people generally do the insurance part? Say I go to look at a bike I find on CL or CycleTrader, and decide to buy it. Do folks generally just ride the bike home sans-insurance, and then sort that out when they get home? Obviously I plan on shopping around a bit for insurance, as I've heard quotes can vary widely depending on which company you talk to, but I can't do that until I have the bike. Just making sure I'm not missing something obvious here.
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Mar 16, 2017 19:02
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Capn Jobe posted:What is the generally agreed-upon procedure here? I'm assuming I should get gear first, and then buy a bike, but how do people generally do the insurance part? Definitely have gear and isurance before riding. Budget $1000-1500 on gear. Don't cheap out on helmet and gloves. The rest in order of importance are boots, jacket, pants. All those little limb bones are good to keep nice and safe. When you buy a bike call your insurance of choice and get it there and then. It may be wise to scout out prices etc. in advance. If you have a clean record most starter bikes like Ninja 300 should be cheap to insure. An alternative to this is to bring a friend to ride your new purchase home.
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Mar 16, 2017 19:36
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Capn Jobe posted:What is the generally agreed-upon procedure here? I'm assuming I should get gear first, and then buy a bike, but how do people generally do the insurance part? Trailer the bike home/put it in the bed of a truck. You can rent a truck from Home Depot super cheap if you don't have one. Definitely shop around for insurance. For me, State Farm is around $200 a month for comp+collision. Geico is $340. Progressive, which is what I have, is $111 a month - $12 a month if I drop theft. I have a completely clean record (I've literally never even gotten so much as a parking ticket), over 25, good credit, but for whatever reason Geico essentially refuses to insure me.
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Mar 17, 2017 16:47
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Get quotes on the bikes you're looking at first. If you're on a budget, that can be a very real factor in picking your first bike. I can't speak for other insurance providers, but Progressive and Geico will let you do a quote on any vehicle without actually providing a VIN. It's ballpark, but reliable enough. I helped a guy get a Ninja 500 for his first bike (excellent first bike), but because he was 22 and most insurance companies see that as a sportbike, his insurance was like $1200/yr. Had he gotten say an XT250, it would have been half that.
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Mar 17, 2017 16:53
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:I can't speak for other insurance providers, but Progressive and Geico will let you do a quote on any vehicle without actually providing a VIN. edit: And yeah, anything that the insurer classifies as a sportbike is going to see way higher rates. Partially because they're considered higher risk, but mostly because the theft rate on sportbikes is absurd so they're just assuming it will get stolen. Especially if you live in, or near, a city. -Inu- fucked around with this message at 17:42 on Mar 17, 2017 |
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Mar 17, 2017 17:36
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-Inu- posted:
What the hell are you riding that costs you $2400 a year in insurance? 
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Mar 17, 2017 17:45
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Sagebrush posted:What the hell are you riding that costs you $2400 a year in insurance?
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Mar 17, 2017 17:54
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Sagebrush posted:What the hell are you riding that costs you $2400 a year in insurance? I pay bout as much for my brutale 800 :/. State Farm wanted $7000. No, that's not a typo.
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Mar 17, 2017 19:38
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Gear setup review? New rider, R3 or ninja 300. Commuting, with some longer/curvy fun rides too. NorCal, won't be riding in rain or below 60*. Helmet: Shoei RF-1200 https://www.revzilla.com/product/shoei-rf-1200-helmet-solid Jacket: Alpinestars T-GP Plus R v2 Air https://www.revzilla.com/product/alpinestars-t-gp-plus-r-v2-air-jacket Pants: Rev'it Sand 3 https://www.revzilla.com/product/revit-sand-3-pants Gloves: Held Airstream II https://www.revzilla.com/product/held-airstream-ii-gloves Boots: Alpinestars Roam 2 Air https://www.revzilla.com/product/alpinestars-roam-2-air-boots Still need to check fit, but looks like they'll all be ok. Thoughts?
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Mar 17, 2017 21:32
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ilkhan posted:Gear setup review? New rider, R3 or ninja 300. Commuting, with some longer/curvy fun rides too. NorCal, won't be riding in rain or below 60*. Seems fine to me except the gloves. Some of us think gloves are second only to helmet in importance. This is because hand injury may be difficult to recover from and may impede ability to work the most. In particular look for gloves with scaphoid protection.
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Mar 17, 2017 21:47
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pokie posted:Seems fine to me except the gloves. Some of us think gloves are second only to helmet in importance. This is because hand injury may be difficult to recover from and may impede ability to work the most. In particular look for gloves with scaphoid protection. ilkhan fucked around with this message at 21:58 on Mar 17, 2017 |
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Mar 17, 2017 21:51
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I am still relatively new so you may be better off getting answers from others. Mine are https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/dainese-druid-long-d1-gloves
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Mar 17, 2017 21:53
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https://www.sportbiketrackgear.com/rs-taichi-gp-evo-racing-gloves/ I've DD'd these for the last two years. they've scaphoid sliders which is reason A why i purchased them.
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Mar 17, 2017 22:03
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On gloves if you look at innovation in protection I'd look at knox. revzilla carry some of their models.
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Mar 17, 2017 23:02
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ilkhan posted:I was thinking the same on glove importance. Suggestions for alternatives on the gloves? Here is a demonstration of what I'm talking about (I am literally pulling on the glove as hard as I can): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I1TgF8QOX6A I'm gonna quote a long post I made last year suggesting some track gloves to someone. This is talking about the Alpinestars GP Pros, but the GP Pluses are literally the exact same glove except they don't have a hard gauntlet, so everything I'm saying holds true to them as well. Alpinestars GP Pluses would be my recommendation for you. -Inu- posted:100%, absolutely, zero question, A/S GP Pros. I'll say with confidence that I believe they are the best gauntlet glove on the market overall, based on my experience and preference. The price on the GP Pros is completely absurd for what you get; they could sell them for $300 and they would still be worth it.
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Mar 18, 2017 01:02
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GP Pro v2 vs Plus R. How big of a difference would it actually be for street riding?
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Mar 18, 2017 07:03
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Almost none. The price differential between the new Pros and the new Pluses is too hard to justify now, unless you've got money burning a hole in your pocket or are looking for a track/aggressive mountain glove. Stick with the Plus R - or - if money is a factor, I really like the SP Air glove as well. It has significantly less leather and isn't as durable, but it's $70 cheaper.
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Mar 18, 2017 07:31
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What is a good beginner bike that would support some medium distance touring? Ideally I'd like a bike that could allow me to ride 300-500 miles in relative comfort while taking enough gear with me to camp for a couple days. I've looked into the Ninja 250 but it looks like the luggage options for it are spending $1000+ or building my own frame. Or maybe the 10 year old wiki page isn't correct! My budget is ~$5000 for gear and bike and luggage.
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Mar 19, 2017 21:20
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Any highway-capable bike, including the Ninja 250, can do 300-500 miles in a day with zero problems. A fairing/windshield can help with the wind at high speeds, but for the kinds of distances you're talking about, meh, not a big deal. When touring you want to stay off the high-speed interstates anyway because it's way prettier on the side roads. Hard luggage options are always going to be expensive, and a thousand dollars is pretty reasonable. Their main advantage is that they're lockable and waterproof. When I go motocamping (usually for a week or so) I just park the bike in sight, put my expensive stuff in the tent at night, and use soft bags: https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/cortech-super-20-saddlebags https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/cortech-super-20-tail-bag and they've got plenty of space for all the stuff one person needs (tent and self-inflating therm-a-rest strapped outside, obviously) if you pack light and aren't camping below freezing. Ninja 250/300/similar would be just fine. No real reason to go higher for your use case. You can easily get the bike, the gear and the bags for under your $5k budget.
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Mar 19, 2017 21:56
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ijzer posted:What is a good beginner bike that would support some medium distance touring? Ideally I'd like a bike that could allow me to ride 300-500 miles in relative comfort while taking enough gear with me to camp for a couple days. I've looked into the Ninja 250 but it looks like the luggage options for it are spending $1000+ or building my own frame. Or maybe the 10 year old wiki page isn't correct! Utterly doable on a ninjette if said bike fits you well. This thread is worth a read: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3778918
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Mar 20, 2017 04:21
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Not being a dick, but can you guys really ride a sport bike for that far? I sat on a couple and they seem insanely uncomfortable next to my retiree old man cruiser. I mean, the sport touring bikes feel great but purely sport bikes I could see being very uncomfortable for touring. e: Basically, are sport bike seats just something to get used to or do people upgrade them typically?
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Mar 20, 2017 04:34
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A ninja 300 is not a sportbike in any respect. It's a normal everyday bike with sporty looking clothes on. 500 miles on a genuine sportbike is pretty punishing. Swapping a seat on a sportbike in the name of comfort is probably one of the most futile things I've heard of.
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Mar 20, 2017 04:38
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torturemyballs posted:Not being a dick, but can you guys really ride a sport bike for that far? I sat on a couple and they seem insanely uncomfortable next to my retiree old man cruiser. I mean, the sport touring bikes feel great but purely sport bikes I could see being very uncomfortable for touring. Depends on the distance and what kind of traffic. I've done 180 mile trips on our zx6 and didn't think twice about it since it was all open freeway. Gets tiring in heavy traffic though. Seats-wise all of mine have stock seats and they don't bother me.
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Mar 20, 2017 04:53
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torturemyballs posted:Not being a dick, but can you guys really ride a sport bike for that far? I sat on a couple and they seem insanely uncomfortable next to my retiree old man cruiser. I mean, the sport touring bikes feel great but purely sport bikes I could see being very uncomfortable for touring. A Ninja 250 doesn't have sport-bike ergonomics. It's a sport-standard with a mostly-upright riding position and just the right amount of forwards lean for general use. (When you're moving, the wind blast tends to push you backwards, so you want a bit of forwards lean to counteract that). You can check out all the different bikes on Cycle-Ergo and you'll see that most of the standards we recommend have very similar riding positions to the Ninjette.   The ZX-6R is a true sportbike that folds you up quite dramatically and it would be no fun to tour on. FWIW I've done 600 miles in a day on my Hawk GT, which is a naked bike with a slightly sportier position than the Ninja 250 but not as much as the ZX-6R, and while I was somewhat sore at the end it wasn't torture by any means. I've been thinking about doing an Iron Butt 1000 on it come the summer. Obviously take this with a grain of salt based on your own body. If you have a bad back and knees and can't bend even a little, then sure, you might need something with a bolt-upright position and a backrest. For most people the 250 is just fine.
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Mar 20, 2017 05:17
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