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There are also beast hunting contracts that involve unholds and usually some other things like lindwurms and whatever else happens to live there. If it mentions unholds, and it's in the north, you may find white ones, but there are also regular ones all the way to the top of the map.
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Jan 1, 2021 19:30
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Thx for the info! I guess my campaign is just cursed then. I've done multiple long trips from one end of the snow area to the other without seeing a single dang group of white unholds. Got a ton of wolf pelts but can't convert them 
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Jan 6, 2021 18:07
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Tin Tim posted:Thx for the info! If you raid barbarian camps that have armoured unholds you can get unhold fur off them, but it'll be in much smaller quantities and you have to kill a bunch of barbarians in the process.
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Jan 6, 2021 18:15
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vyelkin posted:you have to kill a bunch of barbarians in the process. Not a bad thing; and those big rear end barbarian camps often have juicy named items.
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Jan 7, 2021 03:37
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my plan of giving guys I need to replace nicknames to keep track of them isn't paying off okay fine drat he can stay lmao
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Jan 8, 2021 22:36
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I need to get back into this and actually play the dlc, what are some decent seeds these days?
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Jan 10, 2021 06:11
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ShootaBoy posted:I need to get back into this and actually play the dlc, what are some decent seeds these days? Assuming you're up to date with all expansions: IRHbxTNgIF - Very good map with absolutely insane start for Peasants LHHOGAOEFH - good but not great map with good starting cultists - the only one I've found where all the starting cultists are good. MLVRigViiI - Best map seed I've found with regards to overall map layout, but all of the starting bros across various starts I've tested are trash. Legolas, TNZNYTDWNY, NTRQQYHUZW - Other maps with good starting bros on the Peasant origin, but none of them are as good as IRHbxTNgIF in my opinion - They've all got decent to good map layouts though so you might want to test them out for other origins.
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Jan 10, 2021 07:57
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I just started playing this game. In the last 10 pages or so there were a lot of helpful beginner tips. I read one about establishing a trade route loop going with about 3 items. I don't understand how you know where you can sell for a profit though. For example I found a small town selling uncut gems. I bought them and took them to a nearby large city, but they ended up being worth less than I bought them for. I had planned to take my profits and go to the next small town, which was selling amber, but since I never made a profit, that went down the drain.
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Jan 12, 2021 06:00
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pulled both of these off the same tiny goblin camp lol
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Jan 12, 2021 08:33
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Megasabin posted:I just started playing this game. In the last 10 pages or so there were a lot of helpful beginner tips. I read one about establishing a trade route loop going with about 3 items. I don't understand how you know where you can sell for a profit though. For example I found a small town selling uncut gems. I bought them and took them to a nearby large city, but they ended up being worth less than I bought them for. I had planned to take my profits and go to the next small town, which was selling amber, but since I never made a profit, that went down the drain. There's a couple things to consider. Villages with a special site (like a mine or whatever) tend to run a surplus, lowering prices. Large cities tend to pay out more (especially the southern city states) but some of them share those special sites. But the most important part is events : a city that's just been raided jacks up all prices, a city with ambushed caravans as well so if you can it's best to hang onto your trade goods to play war profiteer. It can even be most profitable not to take the quests that will solve the raids and just run supplies to and fro like a providential vulture capitalist - because once you end the problem they get the opposite event which makes good both sell and buy for much less. It also pays a lot to learn what the "real" value of goods are, what they sell for on average. That only comes with trial and error and experience though (but pro tip : if they're selling tools or medical supplies lower than 120g apiece, go hogwild).
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Jan 12, 2021 09:37
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Kobal2 posted:if they're selling tools or medical supplies lower than 120g apiece, go hogwild). most of the time i'll take any tools under 200
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Jan 12, 2021 10:05
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Megasabin posted:I just started playing this game. In the last 10 pages or so there were a lot of helpful beginner tips. I read one about establishing a trade route loop going with about 3 items. I don't understand how you know where you can sell for a profit though. For example I found a small town selling uncut gems. I bought them and took them to a nearby large city, but they ended up being worth less than I bought them for. I had planned to take my profits and go to the next small town, which was selling amber, but since I never made a profit, that went down the drain. Trading isn't something you really rely on in this game. You typically grab goods from any town with a "we sell stuff for less" event (high spirits, etc) and you sell them to towns that have ambushed caravans. That'll net you more on average. But it's not something you do as a primary source of income, you do it while also doing contracts.
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Jan 12, 2021 11:04
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Megasabin posted:I just started playing this game. In the last 10 pages or so there were a lot of helpful beginner tips. I read one about establishing a trade route loop going with about 3 items. I don't understand how you know where you can sell for a profit though. For example I found a small town selling uncut gems. I bought them and took them to a nearby large city, but they ended up being worth less than I bought them for. I had planned to take my profits and go to the next small town, which was selling amber, but since I never made a profit, that went down the drain. generally speaking it's cheaper to buy stuff in small villages and you get more for selling stuff in large cities; but you also have to pay attention to any status effects in the village/city which have an effect on prices. You should aim to only buy trade goods at or below the default value price that you can see in the tooltips. Go to a village, do any contracts they have for you, then check prices of goods - having a good reputation with a town also affects prices. Also goods specific to the north (furs for eg) sell for more in the southern city states, and vice versa. Also note that if a large city happens to also make that particular product, you won't be able to sell it for very much there. But what Dogstile said - trading is a side gig - as you pass through towns, you buy stuff you happen to find cheap, and sell it when you get to a big city and can make a profit. The bulk of your money is going to come from selling loot (generally you should repair any weapons you loot to maximise profit; but armour generally isn't cost effective to repair); the next largest source of money is contract rewards, and trading is a clear third. If you spend a bunch of time trading and not doing contracts/killing things you are going to fall way behind the curve. By day 40 or so you should be ignoring most contracts except 3 skull stuff, crisis contracts, and patrol missions and going on long expeditions into the wilderness clearing locations. The Lord Bude fucked around with this message at 16:05 on Jan 12, 2021 |
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Jan 12, 2021 16:01
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Interesting. There was a fairly detailed post a few pages back that I at least perceived as highlighting trading as the main event to make money early game. The person was saying that trading was one of the least explained, but best ways to make money. It specifically talked about purposefully looking at the map, identifying a 3-city trade loop, buying at small towns & selling at cities, and going in a circle picking up quests along the way. It suggested you could do this profitably until the first major event at which point loot would become more profitable. I don't have time to go find the exact post, but I will later.
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Jan 12, 2021 17:02
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dogstile posted:Trading isn't something you really rely on in this game. You typically grab goods from any town with a "we sell stuff for less" event (high spirits, etc) and you sell them to towns that have ambushed caravans. That'll net you more on average. But it's not something you do as a primary source of income, you do it while also doing contracts. I just buy stuff from places that produce it and sell it at cities as some extra incidental cash while I wander around and do my work.
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Jan 12, 2021 17:04
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Trading does have its place in the early game where a profit of 100-200 bucks is significant enough to slingshot you into another recruit or a piece of armor. But once you're past that it's just a side hustle that you sometimes do when you remember it or happen to stumble upon a bunch of cheap goods. The profit is often not worth the effort anymore once your game is rollingThe Lord Bude posted:Also goods specific to the north (furs for eg) sell for more in the southern city states, and vice versa.
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Jan 12, 2021 17:35
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In vanilla battle brothers the Nachzeher teeth used to be an excellent selling guide because their value was at an even 100, so whatever they sold for gave you an even percentage for all the other goods. Then updates changed the cost. Are there any other items that are good to have to get a quick price barometer?
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Jan 12, 2021 17:43
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Donkringel posted:In vanilla battle brothers the Nachzeher teeth used to be an excellent selling guide because their value was at an even 100, so whatever they sold for gave you an even percentage for all the other goods. Then updates changed the cost. There’s a tooltip of the value of an item. You’ll never sell weapons and armour at anything close to that value (but more broadly they sell better in big citadels; and when there are various modifiers in play) but for trade goods it’s quite accurate - you can buy near or even below the tooltip value and sell well above. Note that you’ll almost never get southern goods down to their tooltip value (maybe if you play as a southern company and do lots of contracts to build reputation?) but you’ll still make a profit as long as you clear out any contracts they have for you and eliminate negative status effects. Megasabin posted:Interesting. There was a fairly detailed post a few pages back that I at least perceived as highlighting trading as the main event to make money early game. The person was saying that trading was one of the least explained, but best ways to make money. It specifically talked about purposefully looking at the map, identifying a 3-city trade loop, buying at small towns & selling at cities, and going in a circle picking up quests along the way. It suggested you could do this profitably until the first major event at which point loot would become more profitable. The key thing is doing the contracts though. Yes you can pick up a couple hundred extra gold from trading, but you get a lot more than that from doing contracts and selling the loot; and the opportunity cost of buying goods to leave in your inventory long term is high in the early game - you need to have money spare to hire recruits; buy tools, snap up bargain used armour and weapons from the marketplace, etc. Also if you loop the same few settlements it impacts your recruiting. If you happen to get the opportunity to buy trade goods for cheap; and you can do so while still maintaining a grand or so in reserve for hiring, then do so - or if you can turnover some goods quickly by buying in one settlement and selling in literally the next one over then by all means spend everything you've got; but the number 1 job of the early game is to visit every settlement on the map to check for potential hires. Once you've done that loop at least once, you can be a bit more selective, but you should still be doing slow gradual loops of the entire map (with sojourns into deep wilderness once you're adequately equipped/levelled) until such time as you have a full compliment of bros. I only play on veteran economy/expert combat but money very much stops becoming an issue (baring misfortune) once you have the ability to wander off the beaten path, clear out 3-4 camps, then haul the loot back to the big city. And in a crisis your ability to make a profit goes through the roof, especially in a noble war (less so if you have it as the first crisis - you generally aren't strong enough to go balls to the wall. I generally don't advise having the noble war as the first crisis, I think undead is easier to deal with). Doing a noble war with an experienced company (ie it's your second crisis or later) you can easily come out of it with an extra 60k or more in the bank. The Lord Bude fucked around with this message at 18:09 on Jan 12, 2021 |
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Jan 12, 2021 17:56
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Babe Magnet posted:pulled both of these off the same tiny goblin camp lol I am green with envy. There's no joy in this game quite like when you see a unique crop up in the loot screen when you weren't expecting it . . . nor any disappointment like seeing a unique you fought and bled for, which has rolled only increased durability over its mundane counterpart.
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Jan 12, 2021 19:11
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Donkringel posted:Are there any other items that are good to have to get a quick price barometer? 18-19 is the comfortable spot where I sell my weapons+armors once my inventory is full but I usually hang on to treasures and try to catch 20+ if I don't need the money right away
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Jan 12, 2021 19:13
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Donkringel posted:In vanilla battle brothers the Nachzeher teeth used to be an excellent selling guide because their value was at an even 100, so whatever they sold for gave you an even percentage for all the other goods. Then updates changed the cost. Unusually Large Wolf Pelts, Raging Hyena Furs, and Reinforced Boondock Bows (fully repaired) all match at 100 sale value in practice (officially at 500 but thats what YOU pay not what merchants pay you at baseline value) and work as a great barometer for the percentage that markets will give you. If a raided allied city offers 117g for your pelt then you know they are paying at 117% Broken Box fucked around with this message at 19:23 on Jan 12, 2021 |
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Jan 12, 2021 19:21
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Broken Box posted:Unusually Large Wolf Pelts, Raging Hyena Furs, and Reinforced Boondock Bows (fully repaired) all match at 100 sale value in practice (officially at 500 but thats what YOU pay not what merchants pay you at baseline value) and work as a great barometer for the percentage that markets will give you. I do something similar, just look at some non-trade-good thing you keep in your inventory, and mentally keep track of what it will 'normally' sell for. I don't have a set benchmark for how high prices need to be before I sell, because it depends on context - do I have enough money to pay the troops, is there something I want to spend cash on, am I about to trek off into the wilderness. Generally I will sell dross and cheap items whenever it's an average-or-so price (in a city) unless I'm immediately heading to another city which might be better. But the really nice loot - top tier weapons and armour, especially the 'loot' goods like Ancient Gold Coins or Lindwurm Hoards, I wait until I'm in a big city with ambushed trade routes. New patch out today - mostly rebalancing of armour attachments and a nerf to Disarm. I'm no expert but I think Bone Plating and Additional Fur Padding are still great despite a slight fatigue increase. Lindwurm Scale cloaks got very good, now 60 durability for 3 fatigue (used to be 40/4). Major improvements to Horn Plates, something I've never gotten, and a minor durability buff to Unhold Fur Cloaks.
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Jan 13, 2021 18:47
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Lindwurm plates definitely needed a buff and I’m not sure 60 is good enough. Considering how rare lindwurms are and the difficulty and expense involved in killing them even with an end game company I feel like lindwurm plate needed to be clearly better than other options. I think you still want additional fur padding on plate wearers - 2 fatigue is irrelevant there; but I think putting lindwurm on nimble guys instead of bone plates is probably better now. Either way you have to take a fatigue hit, 3 vs 2 is trivial and I think 60 durability is good for more than 1 hit given the types of hits back liners are likely to suffer. Horn plate needed buffing even more than Lindwurm plate did, and I still aint killing a Kraken for one. Unhold fur cloak is interesting now - I've always been torn between it and bone plating for archers; now I'm thinking maybe lindwurm plate for polearms and fur cloaks for archers since archers are most likely to suffer ranged attacks and least likely to suffer melee attacks. As time passes I find myself caring less and less for whips anyhow - I barely use them as it is except for fighting gheists so I don't really care about disarm. One more reason not to bother. The relentless fix is a big deal - fencers are so powerful I didn't even notice it was broken, now they are getting even stronger. The Lord Bude fucked around with this message at 19:15 on Jan 13, 2021 |
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Jan 13, 2021 19:03
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Horned plate may as well not exist for about 99% of the playerbase, alongside potions of oblivion and few other things. It doesn't matter what the stats are on the horned plate since to get it you have performed probably the most tedious and challenging fight in the game and it would honestly be more fun if those things with kraken parts as ingredients were just hilariously brokenly op instead. This applies to a lesser extent to lindwurm stuff too. One of the things the various DLCs never really fixed entirely is the fact that fighting human enemies is always going to be the most profitable/immediately rewarding choice since your guys can equip anything nice and sell the rest. Even beasts and exploration and the upgrade to beast hunting contracts have not made these even close to paying out what other contracts should, though attachments at least can force you to look for certain beasts, though I wouldn't call doing this "fun", it's kind of the same PITA that sifting for ranged recruits feels like. I wish some of the crafted attachments were mixed in with the standard ones available at smiths to sort of alleviate the grind a little if you're loaded
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Jan 14, 2021 03:45
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Interesting question: Can anyone say definitively if you continue to benefit from secondary effects of armour attachments (ie the initiative bonus from hyena pelt or the damage reduction from additional fur padding) once your armour reaches zero durability in combat? This would make a big difference, if you do then I think additional fur padding is still categorially better for front liners than lindwurm. If you don't then I think you need to do the math.
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Jan 14, 2021 05:11
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So, uh, is there a basic strategy for the early game? I'm getting massacred and I don't feel like I'm learning anything at all. I basically have all my melee guys equipped with spears, because I know that raises hit chance from reading the thread (but where that information is in the game is beyond me). I basically keep 4 guys in a line with spears + shield and then have 2 range guys behind them. Spearwall seems great and sometimes will delay enemies for 1-2 whole turns, except other times enemies walk right through it, which I guess is you missing? I can't win a fight without losing at least one guy and sometimes I just get slaughtered and have to reload.
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Jan 14, 2021 06:06
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Megasabin posted:So, uh, is there a basic strategy for the early game? I'm getting massacred and I don't feel like I'm learning anything at all. I basically have all my melee guys equipped with spears, because I know that raises hit chance from reading the thread (but where that information is in the game is beyond me). In the inventory screen you can mouse over the abilities weapons give you to see what the effect of that ability is in detail. Try swapping to three guys in a line with a poleman behind them. Would also suggest putting your guy with the best melee attack in the middle with a mace, for when the lines meet, being able to stun the nastiest guy in the melee is a huge force multiplier. Make sure the poleman has the best melee attack you can afford, he'll pay for himself. Bandit raiders often have pikes so you can upgrade through farming fights once you have the basics down against thugs. Are you checking your bros stats and so on?
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Jan 14, 2021 06:13
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Megasabin posted:where that information is in the game is beyond me In the tooltip for the attack iirc. It's intrinsic to the move not to the weapon itself so it doesn't show up on the weapon stats. Swords also have a (smaller) hit bonus on their basic attack while doing more damage, I usually graduate my guys to swords once they reach 60 melee skill. Note that neither weapon type has great base damage or is very good against armour but they're good early on. In the early game I'd consider giving my highest melee skill dude a flail against bandits since they often have weak or no helmets and you can 1-2 shot them with the headshot attack flails get. Megasabin posted:Spearwall seems great and sometimes will delay enemies for 1-2 whole turns, except other times enemies walk right through it, which I guess is you missing? Yeah you should still see the attack animation when a spearwall attack misses and hear the miss/hit shield sound effect. Once it misses and an enemy is adjacent you lose the spearwall. It can be quite strong against certain dumb enemies like zombies and direwolves but is less effective against smarter enemies that can flank it or shielded enemies that you're more likely to whiff against. It does use quite a lot of fatigue so it's situational and shouldn't be used all the time. Megasabin posted:I can't win a fight without losing at least one guy and sometimes I just get slaughtered and have to reload. Losing bros early on is normal because you're hiring whatever you can get rather than being picky and only keeping good bros. Also you're low level and poorly equipped. Give your best guys your best armour and be careful with them, sacrifice poo poo bros to keep them alive if you have to and once they get some levels they'll be able to carry your new recruits. You might also be picking bad fights - make sure not to take contracts with more than one skull until you're comfortable doing one skulls with minimal/no losses.
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Jan 14, 2021 06:21
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Wafflecopper posted:In the tooltip for the attack iirc. It's intrinsic to the move not to the weapon itself so it doesn't show up on the weapon stats. Swords also have a (smaller) hit bonus on their basic attack while doing more damage, I usually graduate my guys to swords once they reach 60 melee skill. Note that neither weapon type has great base damage or is very good against armour but they're good early on. In the early game I'd consider giving my highest melee skill dude a flail against bandits since they often have weak or no helmets and you can 1-2 shot them with the headshot attack flails get. You should be picky early on. It’s better to have 5-6 good bros than 8 average ones. Enemy scaling is heavily influenced by the number of bros you have and growing your company slowly with only good bros (not necessarily god tier 2hander candidates; but solid good bros) will help you get ahead of the difficulty curve.
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Jan 14, 2021 06:51
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yeah poo poo dude I'm losing maybe 2 a fight early on, using them as meat shields to help improve the guys I like and to suicide run in and stab VIPs to take their armor. that 95-110 raider armor is worth way more than a bro in the first month or so lolGenghis Cohen posted:I am green with envy. There's no joy in this game quite like when you see a unique crop up in the loot screen when you weren't expecting it . . . nor any disappointment like seeing a unique you fought and bled for, which has rolled only increased durability over its mundane counterpart. yeah it was nice seeing as they're both my first named items this run, and I meant it when I say tiny goblin camp. I think there may have been 7 enemies. Just gave all my dudes shields and 1h weapons and ran in at night smashing poo poo Put 'em both on the same guy lol  I'm still learning how to build bros Babe Magnet fucked around with this message at 07:35 on Jan 14, 2021 |
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Jan 14, 2021 07:32
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Babe Magnet posted:I'm still learning how to build bros You're doing fine but if you want unsolicited advice you don't need steel brow+colossus on a heavy armor dude. Just one of the two is enough to prevent him from being murdered by a arbalester or goblin with a knife -- and an ideal 2hander doesn't have either, but you do what you gotta do to reach the late game. e: Oh on the other hand 52 stamina is super low for a two hander.
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Jan 14, 2021 07:50
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yeah I think I'm playing it too safe, I don't think bertolf's come close to dying yet and I'm always throwing him into poo poo. Colossus is always the first talent I take on guys I actually want to keep (except for archers, unless they have kind of crap HP) and steel brow goes on guys without shields to helps when being domed by crossbows later on lol I'm working on all my dude's stamina right now, his was naturally kind of low to begin with. I'll probably end up buying him recover next; my other 2h guy has it and much better stam. I took too long to invest in stamina for my frontline guys and they all tire out too quickly. The undead champion armor is also really not fantastic for stamina e: lmao I hate this game sometimes. Yeah dude that's west of elkshorn I GUESS 
Babe Magnet fucked around with this message at 08:05 on Jan 14, 2021 |
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Jan 14, 2021 07:53
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Megasabin posted:So, uh, is there a basic strategy for the early game? I'm getting massacred and I don't feel like I'm learning anything at all. I basically have all my melee guys equipped with spears, because I know that raises hit chance from reading the thread (but where that information is in the game is beyond me). Spears aren't actually a killy item, they're a delay + control item. Having good spearmen will stop enemies from completely surrounding you on the first turn if you're a bit surrounded and against beasts, if they keep hitting they'll murder them very efficiently. But early game you don't want all spears, your best dude should have a mace/axe and your second best dude should have a sword. People say 60+ for graduating from spears but honestly 55+ is fine for swords, i've found. Try to get a polearm for your backline, they let you put very good damage pretty much anywhere. Take a look at enemies weapons and target the ones with the more dangerous ones, too. A guy with a stick or flail? Who gives a poo poo. A dude with a 2h club? Murder that dude.
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Jan 14, 2021 11:43
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Megasabin posted:I basically keep 4 guys in a line with spears + shield and then have 2 range guys behind them. Spearwall seems great and sometimes will delay enemies for 1-2 whole turns, except other times enemies walk right through it, which I guess is you missing? I can't win a fight without losing at least one guy and sometimes I just get slaughtered and have to reload. Spears buy you time and let your bros deal with the enemy frontline piecemeal, but they don't win battles by themselves except maybe against ghouls and wolves (who'll happily throw themselves into your spears over and over again, then you push 'em off and do it again. The fact that they have no armour lets spears actually do damage). What you need is some bros who'll *use* that time to isolate and murder motherfuckers. Archers won't really do it - they're more about inflicting debilitating wounds and morale penalties, at least early on. The easiest/safest routes is to have a couple of polearms behind your wall. Pitchforks are good 'nuff, pikes and billhooks are a huge step up & reliable killers against run of the mill brigands, zombies, ghouls etc... You could also equip some of your high mAtk frontline bros with flails, swords or cleavers (or maces if you're dealing with the boney bois but flails are good against them too and pretty drat effective otherwise when you're fighting brigands with bad or no helmets). You don't need all spears to get a spearwall going. The idea is to have the enemy come into contact at a trickle so your actual killers can focus them down. Finally you could also train a couple as two handers. Keep 'em on the wings behind the line and hopefully they can dispatch the guys trying to outflank you before outflanking them and rolling their line. Definitely the most risk/reward approach though, a couple straight rounds of whiffing your cleaves/windmills will usually result in a dead dude. Oh, and do give everyone a pocketknife, try to Caesar Circle bandit leaders for their armour. lovely chainmail is a huge increase in survivability over even good leather.
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Jan 14, 2021 12:10
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Iron brow is - maybe not a waste - but at least a luxury most can’t afford; but I’d strongly argue colossus isn’t. There isn’t a hugely compelling alternative for the perk point; having a high health pool is important to minimise risk of injuries; and there are far more enemies now that do bleed damage and or high levels of armour ignoring damage. A high health pool is much, much more important than it was in the vanilla game.
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Jan 14, 2021 12:35
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Hell even discounting the health bonus, the chance to receive less injuries is super important later on when you need as many people at the top of their game as possible. The HP bonus is nice but that's the real reason to take colossus imo. I pulled a named dagger out of one of the last fights in this crisis. But it's not just any dagger, it's... 
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Jan 14, 2021 16:17
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I usually end up giving my archers both colossus + steel brow because i'm just tired of them getting double sniped even through steel brow by midgame. It's not optimal but gently caress you, man with crossbow. Range recruits are rare.
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Jan 14, 2021 16:45
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I can't imagine a better first pick than colossus on 95% percent of bros. HP is a core stat on almost everyone (maaaaaybe dedicated ranged bros and polearms bros can ignore it a little) and colossus will at a minimum offer 3-4 levels worth of HP increase and can be much much more. Got a Brother a little frail? Colossus will plug the gap. Got a brother with crazy good HP? Colossus' percent-based bonus will make it extremely cost effective. Steel brow is much, much more situational and honestly I don't think I've taken it on anyone in the last 100 or so hours I've played. Colossus addresses some of the same survivability issues that steel brow does and in a more constantly useful manner. By the time you're facing Bandit marksmen and better, hopefully your guys have good enough headgear that one shot to the head doesn't do you in, and steel brow frankly doesn't do that much in the situation, as (in-battle) there isn't much difference between dying and getting reduced to 10% of your HP with a pierced neck and the brother is probably out of the line for the fight either way
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Jan 14, 2021 22:46
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I think Steel Brow still has its uses. I've had bros taken out from an entire fight in like round 1 or 2 because, even with 300+ heavy armour and colossus and high MDef, they took a barbarian chosen hammer to the face, lost half their HP, and got a severe concussion or a crushed windpipe. Steel Brow is situational and in most circumstances it won't do anything, but in the circumstances where it helps, it really helps.
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Jan 14, 2021 22:55
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| # ? Apr 29, 2024 01:48 |
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I agree for sure but I've mentioned this before: there really isn't enough room, both on your roster and on a single bro's perk sheet, to accommodate more than a bro or two that sits outside of the current meta. The meta has changed slightly for the better (throwing weapons and handgonnes entering the mix of ranged weapons, changes to fearsome + resolve, breaking the indom+adrenaline+recover chain) but at the end of the day you can't really afford specialists and the vast majority of your roster needs to be able to deal with all enemies at all times since you don't have hardly any control over the kinds of foes you'll face I loved building bros to be geist hunters and fencers and dodge tanks and lone wolves and all kinds of builds but at the end of the first crisis I'm always having to justify those slots against having another: > Ranged character from a list of three-ish builds. > Stock-standard shield-bearing megatank > Another two-handed wrecker/DPS > Exactly 1 sergeant, to be upgraded to exactly 2 sergeants much, much later
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Jan 14, 2021 23:05
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