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actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

Do you think a vanity in a medium or dark gray color could work in a bathroom with dark brown walls? I would have a white top on it. Like this:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Home-Decorators-Collection-Thornbriar-48-in-W-x-21-in-D-Bathroom-Vanity-Cabinet-in-Cement-TB4821-CT/302174715

I have a mirrow that is also 48" wide that would start right above this as it's 36" above the ground, i.e. I wouldn't have any splashes.

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actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

Goober Peas posted:

I think the whole gray thing has played itself out. It would be a better long-term strategy to go with a complimentary woodtone cabinet with a white top and paint the walls gray.

Hmm okay. The current vanity is a maple color. I'm alternatively thinking about just raising that one and putting on a new top. The floor tile is a kind of beige/cream with some brown in it.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

there wolf posted:

Yeah, also vetoing a gray vanity with brown on the walls an in the tile. Go with wood, and maybe thing about something a little textured if it seems to be blending into the wall color too much.

Okay, I did also look at something that was a whitewashed oak that would go well with dark brown tiles. So here's my options:

1) Add just a new top that is very thick (like 2") which would add some height and be the least amount of work. This would give me a 33" vanity. Paint the area where the splashes were.

2) Add legs to the bottom of the current vanity and add whatever top I want. However this is obviously a lot more work, and I'm unsure whether the tile floor extends to be below the vanity or not. Is there any reason why it wouldn't be?

3) Replace the vanity completely. This is obviously the most expensive. Also I have a matching linen closet (i.e. also maple) that would need to be changed to match the new vanity.

Last thing - other vanity colors to consider to match brown walls? What about white? I think that would contrast pretty well, but I still would have to match the linen closet.

Here's the floor btw. That brown rug is pretty similar in color to the walls.

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actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

Modifying the vanity would definitely be the easiest. If I add a topper between the vanity and the top it should be straightforward but I want to make sure I can match it. I assume I would just use maple stain.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

peanut posted:

Is painting tiles possible?? Adding cute clover decals?? Your floors are bleak :(

I wouldn't mind having the floor redone as well. But painting lino seems like a pain. Also part of it is probably that it really needs to be cleaned.

Here's part of the vanity, floor and wall. Do you think that if I keep the vanity I should keep the maple color? Or paint it something different (and also possibly paint the walls)?

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actionjackson fucked around with this message at 01:19 on Apr 9, 2019

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

TooMuchAbstraction posted:

Your uneven drawers are stressing me out.

The color looks fine to me though. Could maybe do with being a bit lighter, but I'd rather have the natural wood than a lighter painted color. I'm a sucker for wood though.

Oh gently caress now I can't unsee that. I was able to easily fix it though.

Speaking of, how do I deal with wood warping in bathrooms due to shower steam? Several of the doors close slightly unevenly because of this.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

I attached my new vanity top. Unfortunately even though it's classified as a "48 inch" vanity top it's actually 49 inches. However it says it fits a 48x21 vanity which is what I have. After putting it on (my vanity is in the right corner of the bathroom) it overshoots the left edge by a bit, i.e. the vanity top doesn't actually touch the left top edge of the vanity. The caulking is touching fine in the back and right side, and the front. Is this an issue?

actionjackson fucked around with this message at 03:26 on Apr 13, 2019

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003


Okay here you go. I just talked to the guy at the home depot. He said it should be fine. The gap is about 1/4 inch between the vanity edge and the vanity top edge. I think the reason this happened is because the vanity is in the back right corner, so I can't center it, i.e. the extra inch all has to be on the left side. I'm just going to wipe up the caulk that's in there.

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actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

For reference here is the top attached. You can see what I mean about it being in the back right.

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actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

Electric Bugaloo posted:

If you were worried you could shim it but it’s prob fine.

Okay thanks, that's a relief! Pretty much all the "48 inch vanities" are 49 inches wide so there's not much else I could do anyway. What do you mean by shim exactly? I'm pretty new to all of this.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

there wolf posted:

A wedge you use to hold something in place. If the top isn't wobbling then it should be fine, but the gap is a little unattractive. Is it hidden pretty well under the overhang, or do you need to think about some kind of patch?

It's not visible at all. But I think having something to cover the gap would probably be a good idea anyway.

How long should it take for the caulk to set?

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

Goober Peas posted:

Late to the game, but caulk and a strip of quarter-round molding is how most installers would finish this. The overhang is quite normal.

Okay I will do that. Can you point me to an example of the moulding you are talking about?

Here is the (essentially finished) vanity as I completed the new faucet install today. Had to a get new water supply lines and a PVC tube extension. Obviously I'm going to remove the caulk lines from the sidesplash area and then paint the side and back to match the walls. Another option is to put some sort of tile thing between the small backsplash and the mirror. That area is 2.25 inches tall.

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actionjackson fucked around with this message at 20:49 on Apr 13, 2019

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003


thanks! Once I get that I will run caulk in the gap and then use that to attack the moulding.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

there wolf posted:

I vote paint over tile, unless you're really worried about water splashes ruining something.

I just want to make sure there isn't any issue with the paint not handling water very well. It's a latex paint but that's all I know about it.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

Goober Peas posted:

You probably want to use appropriate sized finish nails into the vanity rather than caulk to attach the quarter-round.

Do I want to nail from the inside or the outside? I assume the inside so the nail isn't showing on the outside.

I do have one other question - I'm getting my fiberglass tub/shower refinished and so I've been replacing all the gross fixtures while I'm at it. There is this grab bar that I want to remove - it looks to be PVC of some type, and it's completely solid. I tried cutting it with a hacksaw in the middle but I'm pretty sure I will need some sort of power tool to cut it into pieces. I'm just wondering if you know how something like this is attached? Am I actually going to be able to get it out, or do you think it's permanent (i.e. is there something holding it on from behind the shower wall)?

Also if I do remove it, is there something I can use to cover those two holes so water doesn't spill out?

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actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

MY NIGGA D-LINK posted:

The bar is made of clear acrylic, and likely has flanges at the rear that will surely be fused to the fiberglass backside of the shower surround. There will be no easy solution to removing it cleanly, nor an easy repair for the penetration holes

Okay thanks. The people doing the refinishing said they could remove it and plug the holes for like 100 bucks (lol) so I assume they have some magical equipment or whatever.

At the very least perhaps it could be removed enough so that I could put a new bar over the space.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

Okay cool thanks for the info. I'll pick up the vinyl moulding.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

Did the painting today. Also I got the vinyl quarter moulding. The depth of the vanity is 21" but I'm going to to 20" because there's a little ridge that sticks out at the front end so it wouldn't be flush there. I got some white finishing nails and a 1/32" nailset. How many nails would you recommend using? And you said I want to nail from the outside, starting at the top part of the moulding and going at a downward angle correct?

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

MY NIGGA D-LINK posted:

I'd burn it off beyond the inside of the opening with a soldering pen myself, but then again, I'd rip out the fiberglass altogether and build a tile shower bc I know how and have the tools to do these things

I got an estimate for replacing it with a walk in shower but it was at least 8k

cool flex tho

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

I'm trying to nail this quarter molding in but having trouble. First off all just because of the angle, but mainly because the end of the vanity top is right above it, i.e. <1/2 inch. So I can't really hammer it much without running into the vanity top edge, and I certainly don't want to damage that. I tried using that 1/32" nailset but I everytime I'd hit that it would come off the nail.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

This is what I'm looking at.

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actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

TooMuchAbstraction posted:

You don't use the nailset until the nail is already all the way in or nearly so. It lets you push the nail below the surface of the trim, it's not for general hammering.

If you have a 1/16" drillbit, you might try drilling some pilot holes. You can also pre-hammer the nails into the trim, so that they're poking out a bit from the other side before you put the trim in place. Then you just press it in and hammer the nails the rest of the way.

If all else fails and you know you'll never want to remove the trim, there's construction adhesive.

Okay yeah that makes sense. I think I will just do the holes in the moulding and the vanity beforehand as you said.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

TooMuchAbstraction posted:

Right, yes, that's the other thing I meant to mention. The finishing nails you should be using are barely bigger in diameter than the nail set.

They actually are just barely bigger, but yeah... this is just what the person at the store said to use with this moulding. Are you saying it's too long?

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

MY NIGGA D-LINK posted:

It's both too long and too thick of a diameter. That's probably 1/2" quarter round, so all you need is a 3/4" tack nail

Okay thanks. They certainly had that but I asked for something white so that's what he pointed me too. I didn't realize I could just putty over the nail head because I'm new to all this. Is the diameter really too high? It looks to be 1/8".

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

MY NIGGA D-LINK posted:

It's simply unnecessary, and making your job harder than it needs to be

Okay I'll just get the shorter ones. What kind of diameter do I want? 1/16"? As I said the nailset I got was 1/32"

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

those are really just upside down styrofoam cups

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

angerbeet posted:

Where does one even get a Spanish Mission baby changing table

San Francisco

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

A friend growing up had a house full of old "antiques" and poo poo, I always hated it. I don't want a bunch of stuff that I'm afraid to even touch. I want things I can actually use and interact with (i.e. a couch I can actually gently caress instead of just look at)

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

Behold my hideous Kermit the frog paint in my entry (no I didn't paint that)

This is my replacement choice so far - a bluish gray that's dark enough to contrast with the white closet well, but not so dark that I think it looks weird next to the light gray carpet.

https://www.behr.com/consumer/ColorDetailView/PPU18-3

I would also consider this one https://www.behr.com/consumer/ColorDetailView/N500-6

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actionjackson fucked around with this message at 01:57 on Apr 16, 2019

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

PRADA SLUT posted:

I think grey is going to make your carpet look baby poo poo brown by proximity

I have a very light and medium gray, both soft in my bedroom and they seem fine with the carpet.

Anyway here is the area looking at the entry. You can see the adjoining walls are painted a cream color. I really just use it for storage since it doesn't get any natural light.

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actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

Here's the area from the other side. I would also consider a dark blue, just because blue is my favorite color. Something like this

https://www.behr.com/consumer/colors/paint/color/S530-7

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actionjackson fucked around with this message at 03:28 on Apr 16, 2019

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

Hmm okay, thanks. I'm very much into neutrals but I suppose having something bright is okay. I still would prefer a blue though, like maybe

https://www.behr.com/consumer/colors/paint/color/PPU12-07

https://www.sherwin-williams.com/ho...ingColors&p=PS0

https://www.sherwin-williams.com/homeowners/color/find-and-explore-colors/paint-colors-by-family/SW6493-ebbtide#/9036/?s=similarColors&p=PS0

https://www.sherwin-williams.com/homeowners/color/find-and-explore-colors/paint-colors-by-family/SW6493-ebbtide#/6737/?s=similarColors&p=PS0

I'll have to get some sample books. If you have any suggestions on light blues I'd appreciate it as well.

I feel like the bins are quite a bit darker than what I'd want there.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

there wolf posted:

I like the vast sky for a blue. Are you planning to keep that cream on the other wall, or eventually repaint it as well?

Not sure. The cream covers the rest of the walls except the bathroom and bedroom. I would want to keep most of those walls that color as it coordinates with all the furniture, drapes and such really well.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

Facebook Aunt posted:

I like all of those more than grey. Spring stream is real pretty.


But it raises a question, am I some kind of colour blind? Because kiwi and mint both look hella green, not blue, to me. Very pretty greens though.

No you're right I use f.lux which was throwing the color off

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

Unfortunately Behr doesn't have a Marquee (which I'd prefer to use as it's one coat and the highest rated interior paint by CR) which is super similar to the one I posted earlier (sherwin-williams vast sky) but based on RGB I think these are the closest:

https://www.behr.com/consumer/ColorDetailView/MQ4-55

https://www.behr.com/consumer/ColorDetailView/MQ5-50

I do have a few other questions:

1) Is LRV determined solely by RGB?

2) Given the area has no natural light, which of these four finishes do you think would be best?

https://www.behr.com/consumer/products/interior-paint-and-primer/behr-marquee-interior/

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

While viewing :filez: - drat I love this vanity and sink combo

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actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

Will do, thanks. The cream is a custom tint but I can find something similar. The sink in the picture? Yes it's a vessel.

This looks pretty similar to the cream I have

https://www.behr.com/consumer/colors/paint/color/N280-1

Behr suggests this as a coordinating blue:

https://www.behr.com/consumer/colors/paint/color/S520-2

Here is the wall in my place for reference

actionjackson fucked around with this message at 00:44 on Apr 17, 2019

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

Oops sorry, here's the picture. I have the custom paint info but I don't really understand it.

It says BAC colorant

Y1-Yellow 3
Y3-Deep Gold 1
R4-New Red 2
B1-Black 1 1
W1-White 56

The first number is under a column labeled "32" and the second under a column labeled "64"

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actionjackson fucked around with this message at 00:47 on Apr 17, 2019

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

Thanks. I chose that spot on purpose :coolfish:

I had that frame custom made for like $300 or something quite a few years ago. I've been to his museum in The Hague as well.

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actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

Blue Footed Booby posted:

There's lights visible in the frame. How is the exposure that hosed up?


No idea, but I would like to figure out what vanity that is just because it's hella cool. I like how it just has the three larger "drawers" instead of 5-6 like most that size do. I assume within those drawers there are smaller ones that come out.

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