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Dannywilson posted:You can see it's had some sort of minor front end collision that has bent the bumper mounts upward and made trying to get anything straight loving infuriating: So, since I couldn't get the OEM trim piece to fit that gap, I decided to get retarded and installed a 54" light bar. It's been polarizing among friends. What say y'all? Installed   With NiteShade sprayed on it to sort of mute its appearance   On    Oh yeah, the bar has a remote https://vimeo.com/220825565 https://vimeo.com/220825539 Garage2Roadtrip fucked around with this message at 21:59 on Jul 1, 2017 |
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Jun 8, 2017 17:09
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Noriyarooooooooooooooooooooooooo https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KKAs2Pi9U1M&t=300s 5 minutes in, you should've gotten this one for mobile raves.
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Jun 8, 2017 17:25
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Olympic Mathlete posted:Noriyarooooooooooooooooooooooooo SHITTTT! I hosed up, go back, we need to get the party button!! I love how his incredulous bemusement mirrored mine when I installed it.
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Jun 8, 2017 17:29
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I like your car flags. I need more car flags.
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Jun 8, 2017 17:33
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Adiabatic posted:I like your car flags. I think from working Air Force avionics for 15 years I have an aversion to sterilized white walls in a work space. All of those flags were <$10 on Amazon and cover a lot of real estate, plus you can move them, clean them, and they act as sound deadening to an extent (at least to knock the echo down from talking).
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Jun 8, 2017 17:35
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Garage2Roadtrip posted:So, since I couldn't get the OEM trim piece to fit that gap, I decided to get retarded and installed a 54" light bar. It's been polarizing among friends. What say y'all? Ok that's pretty hot. I saw the guy with the Silvia conversion who replaced his whole headlight setup with the huge light bar, and liked it; if you get headlamps and fog lights that match the color temperature, it'll look Totally Sick Bro *vapes*, and probably give you much better than OEM night visibility.
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Jun 8, 2017 18:16
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So...I know I said a while back I was going to prevent dismantling any Starions I could. I went through the new one today, and tried to identify some the gremlins the PO told me about. It doesn't look too bad washed, but there are a lot of underlying problems.  I got the pop-ups to go down on their own, but the issue was the fuseable link in the eng compartment was missing and the molex the connects to the back of the in-car fuse block is shattered and held together with electrical tape. So with some judicious wiggling and a jumpered link:  This one's nose is kinda tweaked too, but I'm going to be able to put this nose on the 1UZ car.  And I should be able to kludge this airdam back together enough to make it work. I want to get a sheet metal brake and reinforce the inside of the airdam with like 20ga steel.  Here is the spare fender and the center-upper nose section I need for the 1UZ car  I'm going to reinforce the underside of this unobtanium trunk cover with some fiberboard and install it in Danny's 88 Auto.  More of the spare parts pile - there's a bunch of usable stuff in here, including a set of new 4 pt harnesses I might throw in the passenger seat of the 1UZ car if it ever gets one.  So, back to dismantling. Danny and I talked about it, and the engine, trans, computer, shifter bezel, pedals, etc. are going to get swapped into his car. We'll take the injection from this car and throw it in his since this set looks slightly more sorted. We'll duplicate the ABS delete from this car on the Auto->Manual swap one, and maybe move all the components off the new one's braking system to the 1UZ car, since it's brakes are loving missing. Oh, the new one has a big brake kit with drilled/slotted rotors as well. Sorry for the weird Starion stream of conscious. Here's me testing the new car's factory LSD - it works. 
Garage2Roadtrip fucked around with this message at 22:04 on Jul 1, 2017 |
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Jun 8, 2017 21:46
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Garage2Roadtrip posted:
I need more information about your '86(?) aw11 mr2.
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Jun 8, 2017 22:33
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slurry_curry posted:I need more information about your '86(?) aw11 mr2. It is in fact an 86 5 speed N/A with pop-out sunroof. Body is perfect with a 5ish year old re-spray and 178,000 miles, interior is complete and in great shape. On it's third engine according to 30 years worth of paperwork that came with the car. Engine may get swapped to a silver or blacktop eventually as this one may have valve seal issues. I bought it for <$2000 as it sits minus any freshening I've done to it. I've done two fairly long distance road trips with it. Once to North Myrtle Beach ~ 11hrs round trip and once to Carlisle PA last month for the Import and Performance Nationals which was 18hrs round trip with some pretty aggressive autocrossing while I was there. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G7Py3-3BCl0   
Garage2Roadtrip fucked around with this message at 22:05 on Jul 1, 2017 |
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Jun 8, 2017 22:56
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 Tryna keep it Starquest relevant Garage2Roadtrip fucked around with this message at 22:06 on Jul 1, 2017 |
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Jun 8, 2017 22:59
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I wanted a turbo Starquest back in high school ('88), and I still want one. The widebody one just (still) look so tough. I can't wait to see how stupid it is with a 1UZ.
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Jun 8, 2017 23:02
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Garage2Roadtrip posted:mr2 stuff awesome! It looks like my old '86 aw11 with a silvertop swap(your cars gold, right?). Def do a 20v swap, it is the perfect engine for that chassis, especially the blacktop. I still have CL notifications for aw11's and I will probably buy another one at some point(which would be #5 for me).
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Jun 9, 2017 01:02
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Garage2Roadtrip posted:Tryna keep it Starquest relevant I almost posted that pic with the cheesecake photodump earlier, but as it has more of your iron in it than mine I knew I'd see it eventually.
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Jun 9, 2017 04:20
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Progress Report (1/2): Today I decided to get the 1UZ dressed the way I want it, fix what I hosed up, and ready for a timing belt job. I took the clutch fan off first, and then deleted the air conditioning compressor.  Then I started getting the lower and upper oil pan ready to install - I had to gunk and clean the upper pan, the lower is new.  Pulled the lower pan  And windage tray  Then fought with the upper pan for a couple hours, and finally found a fiche that showed two hidden bolts back up in the flexplate / bellhousing area. Then realized that the pattern between an early 1UZ and late 1UZ is the same, but bolt width and bolt depth is different. I just got back from Lowes with appropriate bolts and ate lunch, back at it! Garage2Roadtrip fucked around with this message at 22:09 on Jul 1, 2017 |
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Jun 12, 2017 19:05
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Progress Report (2/2): After lunch I got excited about re-hanging the upper oil pan, so I RTV'ed it and hung it. Then I remembered I needed to drill out some of the holes for the newer engine block bolt sizes. poo poo. RTV loving everywhere. I love black RTV / I hate black RTV. Hung the second time  Windage tray Lower pan installed  The entrance to the pan for the oil dipstick was slightly different between upper pans, so I modified the attachment bolt and RTV'ed the entrance hole. It hugs the block a lot better now too.    Okay, so now I'm pretty much where I should have been at the day I got the motor. I guess replacing that poo poo was penance for hoisting the engine like an idiot. Speaking of which, in order to use the pallet it came on, I've been using the crane at full extension - which is why it fell over last time. So I got rid of the pallet and figured out that Starion lower rear seat cushions makes a decent cradle. Now I can use the crane on a safer setting.   Bonus little job of the day was figuring out how to manually close the headlights.  Also, I think I'm done with the concept of carefully dismantling the shell. That poo poo takes too long and none of the stuff in it is really in good enough condition to be worth anything. So from here on out, I'm just going to be ripping and cutting poo poo out. Garage2Roadtrip fucked around with this message at 22:14 on Jul 1, 2017 |
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Jun 12, 2017 22:12
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Late but you can also tell people you have a Indycar engine in your Starion.
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Jun 12, 2017 22:31
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Human Grand Prix posted:Late but you can also tell people you have a Indycar engine in your Starion. I've read that little blurb, too. Is there a more down in the weeds article about it? "Its resemblance to a race engine platform (6 bolt cross mains and over square configuration) was confirmed in 2007 by David Currier (in an interview with v-eight.com), vice president of TRD USA, stating that the 1UZ platform was based on CART/IRL engine design. It was planned to be used on GT500 vehicles, however its subsequent use in the Daytona Prototype use had not been planned."
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Jun 12, 2017 22:51
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Anyone have any insight on a cable-only throttle body that fits the VVT-i 1UZ? I've searched for weeks, and nothing conclusive has come up. I was thinking the earlier (non VVT-i) TB might work, but this is unsubstantiated still.
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Jun 12, 2017 23:20
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The shortened serpentine belt came in yesterday and fits the a/c delete length perfectly.  This morning I bought the timing belt kit and t-stat kit to refresh the 1UZ. Planning to buy a set of coils and plugs as well. Today or tomorrow's plan is to hit the starter with a battery and see how healthy it sounds. I know it's a pain in the rear end to change in-situ, but I'd kind of rather not spend $200 on something that's working right now. While I'm doing that, I'll be compression testing the engine just to make sure I'm not installing a dud. Garage2Roadtrip fucked around with this message at 13:26 on Jul 5, 2017 |
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Jun 14, 2017 15:08
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So, I went down to the shop with good intentions of proactive preventative maintenance, but after a cup of coffee and staring back and forth between the shell and the motor, I had to know if it would fit. I grabbed the sawzall and cut the upper radiator support out and then:     It's almost exactly where I want it, but it's spoiling on the brake booster, steering box (the biggest issue), the front anti-sway bar (another big issue), the ABS module (which is being removed), and the existing exhaust flanges are giant and hitting the frame rails/engine cradle. ABS module  Steering box  Here's how I'm doing on hood clearance. It looks kind of bleak now, but the nose of the engine would settle up to 4-5" if the anti-sway was reimagined or removed. It's also canted to the passenger side because it's fouling on the steering box. With these issues resolved, it also should be able to slide back into the bay about 2-3" more giving me room to put the radiator in the front cutout. The tailshaft of the trans is almost in the perfect spot, once it slides back in a couple more inches the crossmember even lines up.  Garage2Roadtrip fucked around with this message at 22:19 on Jul 1, 2017 |
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Jun 14, 2017 16:20
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That's a whooooooooooole lot of engine, holy gently caress. Is the bay on these smaller than I imagine? I'm used to the slightly cavernous bay of a Supra which makes the inline 6 nestled inside it look almost small.
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Jun 14, 2017 16:41
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Olympic Mathlete posted:That's a whooooooooooole lot of engine, holy gently caress. Is the bay on these smaller than I imagine? I'm used to the slightly cavernous bay of a Supra which makes the inline 6 nestled inside it look almost small. I guess? SBC and LS Starquest's seem to work alright. I knew the odds weren't favoring me when I went 1UZ>LS. It's going to fit, I'll just need some massaging. Today's little exercise was just total self-amusement, but it gives me some issues to address. I need to pull the front sway bar and see how the engine sits. I also want to pull the exhaust manifolds and drop it in and see how it does without those gigantic flanges on them. I'll pull the ABS module and look for a smaller brake booster, and I'm not really sure what to do about the steering box. I wanted to use the 1UZ pump and run power steering on the car. I'm not sure if that is going to be achievable. I'm not familiar at all with steering box swaps and relocates, but I'll start reading other projects to see what I can do.
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Jun 14, 2017 16:49
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How then hell is that going to work 
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Jun 14, 2017 17:16
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CommieGIR posted:How then hell is that going to work Imma have to gently caress it.
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Jun 14, 2017 18:38
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Not able to leave well enough alone, or do anything I'm actually supposed to do today... ...I went down again and messed with the placement. I swear that Toyota/Lexus had me in mind when they designed their manifolds. I pulled the driver's side heat shield and it yielded all the room I needed   So I got the trans and tailshaft into height and position (notice that the factory driveshaft is almost in the perfect spot to fit). I don't know if I can run the driveshaft on a flange without a center support bearing and a slip yoke in the middle like a BMW. That's a problem for later though.  I pulled the front anti-sway bar and started lowering the engine into place  The placement of the oil filter became a problem, so I pulled it and I figure I can run a remote mount plate and get the 4" I need out of it.  Rearward placement is good for me here. The serpentine system clears the front of the engine bay with a couple inches to spare all around, and I figure I can get a deep radiator that fits the opening on the other side of the original support  And now the hood closes neatly with everything where it needs to be 
Garage2Roadtrip fucked around with this message at 22:23 on Jul 1, 2017 |
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Jun 14, 2017 18:58
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photobucket!!
Garage2Roadtrip fucked around with this message at 21:18 on Jul 22, 2017 |
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Jun 14, 2017 20:15
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Toyota seems good at keeping swappers in mind; every step of the way with the 1JZ, it just felt like it was meant to fit also into an S30 chassis.
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Jun 14, 2017 22:07
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Garage2Roadtrip posted:I guess? SBC and LS Starquest's seem to work alright. There's a bit of a difference between a 1UZ and a good pushrod motor, though  
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Jun 14, 2017 22:13
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If you're gunning for an aluminum block pushrod motor, that difference is a few thousand dollars, especially if you want the manual transmission that sometimes comes behind it.
Waffle House fucked around with this message at 23:06 on Jun 14, 2017 |
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Jun 14, 2017 22:55
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Raluek posted:There's a bit of a difference between a 1UZ and a good pushrod motor, though Luckily I didn't get a good pushrod motor or a bad one. I got a good DOHC motor! Waffle House posted:If you're gunning for an aluminum block pushrod motor, that difference is a few thousand dollars, especially if you want the manual transmission that sometimes comes behind it. This. I could go all LS swap bro all over this poor starquest. OR! I could spend half as much, get a 300hp engine with the bottom end ostensibly designed for 400hp, run it with a /MATED TO IT/ 5 speed auto that I can pushbutton control (like a playstation - yo), and do some fun rear end bracket racing and maybe slap a blower on it in a couple years and start learning aero for some standing mile stuff.
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Jun 15, 2017 01:23
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Waffle House posted:Toyota seems good at keeping swappers in mind; every step of the way with the 1JZ, it just felt like it was meant to fit also into an S30 chassis. That's so rad. What lucky coincidences!
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Jun 15, 2017 01:24
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Pffft you're only have as stupid as I am, I put a 4.6 32v into a S14 240SX. And by put in I mean it's just sitting on the lift very sadly. But the motor is in it.
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Jun 15, 2017 03:36
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You're gonna need that heatshield.
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Jun 15, 2017 03:40
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CommieGIR posted:You're gonna need that heatshield. Meh, we'll see. All kinds of hilux and off road dudes are running manifolds without shields or headers nearly as close to poo poo like steering boxes and they apparently don't have any notable complaints.
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Jun 15, 2017 04:14
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If it becomes an issue put header blankets on them, done.
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Jun 15, 2017 04:49
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Garage2Roadtrip posted:Luckily I didn't get a good pushrod motor or a bad one. I got a good DOHC motor! That's incorrect, the bottom end is in fact designed for stupid hp 
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Jun 15, 2017 07:04
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Where does the sway bar hit? Can you modify the oil pan or will you move it / use a different sway bar?
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Jun 15, 2017 10:54
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Slavvy posted:That's incorrect, the bottom end is in fact designed for stupid hp *goes to buy an LS400 for the motor*
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Jun 15, 2017 11:44
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Applebees Appetizer posted:If it becomes an issue put header blankets on them, done. Yeah I figured I'd do something like that, but blanket the steering box if I start having issues. The Starion runs a factory power steering cooling loop, and I might just run that too. Slavvy posted:That's incorrect, the bottom end is in fact designed for stupid hp Sounds like it, with proper supporting work it'll do 1000hp+ Here's what I consider the defacto information source on it: http://www.lextreme.com/pistonrod.htm Looks like I have the weakest of the factory rods, but if I'm going in to upgrade the pistons to lower compression at some point for forced induction, it'll be easy enough to put the big boy rods in at the same time. http://www.lextreme.com/rods/IMG_0070.JPG Psycho Donut Killer posted:Where does the sway bar hit? Can you modify the oil pan or will you move it / use a different sway bar? The factory sway bar hits the very front of the forward lower oil pan. I'm not worried about using the factory bar, I looked a bit yesterday and there seem to be several aftermarket or full custom bars for reasonable prices that I can have clear the pan. I really like the orientation of the pan because they give me a lot of engine cross-member clearance. They make center and rear sump upper pans for the 1UZ from other applications, and 4WD guys use them in their swaps, but for me it would give me clearance issues with things a lot more important that a sway bar. Olympic Mathlete posted:*goes to buy an LS400 for the motor* Do eeeet. 1UZ Mafia.
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Jun 15, 2017 14:16
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Fairly mundane update today. I pulled the engine back out of the car, while measuring for motor mounts. It looks like I should just be able to put pedestal mounts in the same place as the factory mounts on the standard K member. Then I got into the engine bay and pulled more useless junk, like the ABS module, extra vacuum and evap lines, and the charcoal canister. I figured I'd need some access to get the original wiring harness out and I'd need the same space to run the new wiring, so I pulled the driver's fender.  As I figure out how tight my clearances are, I'm trying to solve them as they come up. I bought one of these today to solve the oil filter space.  Aside from more stripping of the interior and pressure washing the engine bay, I'm pretty much at the point of buying the Megasquirt I need and a welder to build mounts and stuff. Going on vacation for a week, so probably jump back into it when I get back. Garage2Roadtrip fucked around with this message at 13:41 on Jul 5, 2017 |
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Jun 16, 2017 21:04
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