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MomJeans420
Mar 19, 2007



poo poo those Husky tool chests are cheaper than the Harbor Freight ones, are they as good or better? I know the HF ones are actually pretty well received.

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Suburban Dad
Jan 10, 2007


Well what's attached to a leash that it made itself?
The punchline is the way that you've been fuckin' yourself




I have one of the big ones (mine is gloss instead and mirrored vs that one though, a little older) as my main tool chest and have no issues with it. Drawers slide easily and it holds a ton of poo poo. It was heavy and not fun to assemble because of that but wasn't bad. It has a power strip with USB plugs in the top which is awesome for charging cordless batteries and whatever else you want. I took the top cover off for clearance to fit the drat thing in my garage and like the open shelf.



They go on sale for ~100 off here and there. I can't remember exactly what I paid but recall it being 6-700.

Suburban Dad fucked around with this message at 14:02 on Dec 10, 2019

dreesemonkey
May 14, 2008
Pillbug

Pr0kjayhawk posted:

Before:


After:


Looks good. I'd recommend building/buying some shelving for bins (or similar) running along the ceiling. You can never have too much storage space.

Tremek
Jun 10, 2005

dreesemonkey posted:

Looks good. I'd recommend building/buying some shelving for bins (or similar) running along the ceiling. You can never have too much storage space.

Token install networked smoke alarm/heat detector comment here

Pr0kjayhawk
Nov 30, 2002

:pervert:Zoom Zoom, motherfuckers:pervert:

dreesemonkey posted:

Looks good. I'd recommend building/buying some shelving for bins (or similar) running along the ceiling. You can never have too much storage space.

Thanks! Newage has storage cabinets that attach to the wall and cabinets, I was planning to leave that as an option in the future in case I need it. Having thought about it now, since I went with the longer Husky workbench that won’t fit perfectly because they’re designed for Newage’s modular 28” sections.

I’d rather mount a TV there. It would be nice to have F1 going while I’m working and the occasional how-to YouTube video.

I’m also planning a 8’ x 4’ ceiling storage unit on the other side of the garage. Beyond that, I’m a big proponent of throwing poo poo out when it gets too crazy. People just have too much drat stuff, myself included.

Tremek posted:

Token install networked smoke alarm/heat detector comment here

Hadn’t thought of that. The entire house is set up with a sprinkler system but I don’t recall seeing a smoke detector. Thanks for the suggestion.

Tremek
Jun 10, 2005

Pr0kjayhawk posted:

Hadn’t thought of that. The entire house is set up with a sprinkler system but I don’t recall seeing a smoke detector. Thanks for the suggestion.

Speaking from a position of personal annoyance, I doubt it could hurt

Pr0kjayhawk
Nov 30, 2002

:pervert:Zoom Zoom, motherfuckers:pervert:

Tremek posted:

Speaking from a position of personal annoyance, I doubt it could hurt

Sweet baby jesus, was that your house?

A quick interweb search recommended against smoke detectors but in favor of heat detectors. Need to do a bit more research though, the sprinkler system has a wax portion that triggers the flow of water when it melts.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Pr0kjayhawk posted:

A quick interweb search recommended against smoke detectors but in favor of heat detectors.

Yes, smokes are bad in a dusty environment. They will false alarm constantly.

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

I was looking for a 4' x 4bulb T5 for my garage, but found these on Amazon, which seems to be what I want but LED instead of T5.

I'm thinking of putting 4 of these in my garage, which will free up 2x T5 florescent fixtures which I will use elsewhere. Looks to be about my best bet for lumens. Thoughts? Other ideas?

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07DMZWZ4B/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_4?smid=A24YTWXXZVIWWC&psc=1
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07RZ816MR/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_3?smid=A24YTWXXZVIWWC&psc=1

Talking to an LED specialist I deal with at work, he says that T5s actually stand up pretty well compared to LEDs in lumen output/bang buck hence why I was looking for them at first. At least the cost/benefit for retrofitting them isn't there yet, at least not like T8s and T12s... but if I want some new/additional fixtures I'm open to suggestions.

slidebite fucked around with this message at 17:18 on Jan 4, 2020

FatCow
Apr 22, 2002
I MAP THE FUCK OUT OF PEOPLE
How big is your garage?

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

31x28-ish

Right now it has a whopping total of 3x 4' 2-bulb T5 fixtures and to be honest, it's shockingly not terrible, but I want more light.

I'm thinking 2 of these on each side plus re-wire the 2 left over T5 fixtures to the back of the garage (so there will be a chain of 3) should be pretty good, if not ample. Here's a photo

Only registered members can see post attachments!

NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


I bought from prolighting.com for my garage, think it was the recommend combo at the time.

Maxlite 48" 2 Lamp LED Ready Utility Strip 120-277V LSS2XT8USE4803
GLL 48" 18W LED T8 - 2,664 Lumens - Direct Wire Single End or Opposing End or Ballast Compatible - 5000K - 120-277V GL07103-3M

I put 9 in each side of the garage, front half is 22x27 and it's very nice for working.

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?
I also was in the market for improving the lighting in my garage, so I went with 3x120cm 4000 lumen 40W LED ones with 4000k Kelvin (super hard to find 5000k here for some reason, and I don't really want 6500k that seems to be the next step up). Putting 2 on opposite sides of each other, and then the third on the wall opposite to where the shelves are. No idea how much or little light this will provide, only that it'll be miles better than what's in there now (50 year old flourescent lights, one that is lighting up the whole garage).
I saw a recommendation of 1000 lux (1000lumen/m2), and that building regulations here apparently recommend 100LUX as minimum for car garages. Should be ok. Can always add more in the future.

MomJeans420
Mar 19, 2007



My garage currently only has a single fluorescent fixture with two bulbs, on a single side of the garage. I'd like to at least get a fixture on the other side, and maybe replace the current fixture if modern LED lighting is better than the old school garage lights. I'm renting right now so I want to do it cheap, is something like this decent enough?

OBAMNA PHONE
Aug 7, 2002
grab a few of the costco led lights the next time they are on sale

they are easy to daisy chain together

dreesemonkey
May 14, 2008
Pillbug
I bought a 4 pack of these from amazon, I'm happy with them and they put out a good amount of light

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VZZDW4D

MomJeans420
Mar 19, 2007



Looks like the costco ones go on sale for $20, but those amazon ones are tempting too. Anyone know how often the costco ones go on sale?

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

I got my 4x LED wrap arounds in and I have a question for mounting them in series via the knock-outs.

I've obviously mounted lights in the past, but never in series, just each as stand alone. I was hoping with the knock outs I could tie into the power at the end of the fixture and carry it over to the other fixture, but do I have to run a separate power cable all the way from the twist connects of the first light, into the second, twist connector, run another one to the third, twist connector, 4th? I mean, that's easily enough done but I guess I thought there was something to tap into closer to the ends.. suppose not?




What's the best way to deal with the ground since I won't have junction boxes on 3 of them? Just use a 3-wire cable and run the ground like the power?

slidebite fucked around with this message at 02:21 on Jan 9, 2020

Sgt Fox
Dec 21, 2004

It's the buzzer I love the most. Makes me feel alive. Makes the V8's dead.
You won't wire them in series, they will be in parallel. Line of all the lights will be tied to the same point electrically, as will neutral and ground respectively. Think of it as one long cable, coming in one side of the light and leaving the other, and you are connecting the line, neutral and ground of each light to the cable.

The daisy chain lights which have an input and output connector will just wire the line in direct to the line out, the neutral in to the neutral out and ground in to ground out. They just do it inside the light for consumer simplicity. You are essentially replicating that with NMD90.

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

Yeah, so that's what I thought after I realized it wasn't going in series like hoped. Makes perfect sense. Thanks. First time doing multiple fixtures like this. :saddowns:

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

MomJeans420 posted:

Looks like the costco ones go on sale for $20, but those amazon ones are tempting too. Anyone know how often the costco ones go on sale?

Maybe 3-4 times a year? I think the lowest I've seen them was $17 over Christmas.

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

Took out the 2x 2 bulb T5 fixtures and replaced with the 4x 4 strip LED's.

End of the day: Happy with the light thrown out, but, I am most surprised with the light thrown out by the 2x 4' 54W T5 bulbs. They throw good light. No doubt the 4x4 7400 lumen LED fixtures throw out more, but it's not THAT much more.

Take away: If you can get a smoking deal on high wattage T5s, they are a good bang/buck light.

Here are a few pics of my 4 hours of work this afternoon, removing the old T5s, hanging the new LED's (laser measurers are a godsend), wiring and testing. The old T5s will get life still, I'll attach them next to the last existing T5 over my steps into the house.

Old original 2 bulb T5s. There is another one visible directly above the camera in the raised ceiling area. This is where I'll put at least 1, maybe both of the spare T5s.



Placing them in. Hooked up the first one to give light (and turn breaker back on - furnace was one the same circuit so heat as well) and then hung the rest without wiring them up at first.


Running the power cable, need to hook them up, test and diffusers


Done with diffusers. The camera made it seem far dimmer than it really was. It's got a good brightness for a garage, but I would be lying if I said 4x as bright as the 2 T5 fixtures. Maybe 2x as bright? Vehicles had frost on them from being stuck in the driveway for 4 hours at -15C while I worked on this... between a few beers and visitors.


Also a shout-out to this Milwaukee 18V light I borrowed from the office. Kept the whole garage lighted excellently as I had the power turned off to do the wiring. Hours of life on the battery but can also take 120V input so it's indefinite. I'd love it as a worklight.
https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Lighting/Site-Lights/2145-20

slidebite fucked around with this message at 17:58 on Jan 12, 2020

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Ba

By

Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo


Fallen Rib
Yeah, T5s are modern and very efficient. It's the old t8s and t12s (shiver) that you gotta replace. Still, looks good. I need to add some lights to my shop hi bay. Right now, it's two 4xT5HO fixtures, which are adequate but I'd like some more.

Seat Safety Switch
May 27, 2008

MY RELIGION IS THE SMALL BLOCK V8 AND COMMANDMENTS ONE THROUGH TEN ARE NEVER LIFT.

Pillbug
That Milwaukee light looks way better than the "Snap-On" LED light that I got from Costco a few years ago - which is great, very bright, relatively tough, but it's directional.

The Royal Nonesuch
Nov 1, 2005

Alright, this is kind of an open-ended question but I'm looking for general input on two-post lifts, ceiling height, etc. Long story short my folks are looking at rebuilding their garage after their old one was reduced to ash in an electrical fire last year. They're starting to talk to architects, and my requests begging/threatening/cajoling for a space large enough to accomodate a lift is being taken into consideration. Ideally (and part of my selling point) they'd be able to store one vehicle up top and one underneath, although I realize that requires a pretty large design consideration vs. just being able to get a car up enough to easily do oil changes and suspension work. Naturally it depends on what vehicles etc, but cursory estimates with a measuring tape put that at a roughly 15'min ceiling depending on apex/lift orientation. Does a lift require any special foundation elements or changes?

General thoughts, ideas and cash contributions are welcome :wotwot:

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

The Royal Nonesuch posted:

Alright, this is kind of an open-ended question but I'm looking for general input on two-post lifts........they'd be able to store one vehicle up top and one underneath

That's not really a good storage solution. Typically one would use a 4 post for storage.

The Royal Nonesuch posted:

Does a lift require any special foundation elements or changes?

Yes. It depends on the lift and max weight, but you're typically going to need thicker/higher PSI concrete than one would normally pour for a residential garage floor.

NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


Just echoing what Motronic said. A two post lift isn't for storage and will need extra or reinforced concrete poured. A four post lift is great for storage and I think you can get away with a normal concrete pour, or at least less than a two post.

Quick grab from an Atlas two post

quote:

The lift should be located on a relatively level fl oor with 4 in. minimum thickness, 3000-psi concrete slab that has been properly cured. There can be no cracks in the slab within 36 in. of the base plate location, and no seams in the foundation within 6 in. of its location! Remember: any structure is only as strong as the foundation on which it is located!

Rhyno
Mar 22, 2003
Probation
Can't post for 10 years!
I want to build a new work bench to replace the cut up doors the previous owner left behind.I just need a simple bench with a shelf below. Google gives me way too many options and suggestions, what's the goon go to?

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

Rhyno posted:

I want to build a new work bench to replace the cut up doors the previous owner left behind.I just need a simple bench with a shelf below. Google gives me way too many options and suggestions, what's the goon go to?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QNFnyD8gAYc

Tailor to your needs/wants. Watch as program creep takes you into places you've never considered before.

Boaz MacPhereson
Jul 11, 2006

Day 12045 Ht10hands 180lbs
No Name
No lumps No Bumps Full life Clean
Two good eyes No Busted Limbs
Piss OK Genitals intact
Multiple scars Heals fast
O NEGATIVE HI OCTANE
UNIVERSAL DONOR
Lone Road Warrior Rundown
on the Powder Lakes V8
No guzzoline No supplies
ISOLATE PSYCHOTIC
Keep muzzled...

meatpimp posted:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QNFnyD8gAYc

Tailor to your needs/wants. Watch as program creep takes you into places you've never considered before.

That's essentially what I built at my last house. I went pretty wide on it to fill a certain space and used 4x4 legs instead of 2x4, but overall it's pretty much that bench. It was a drat fine bench while I used it.

Rhyno
Mar 22, 2003
Probation
Can't post for 10 years!
I have the whole length of the wall so I figure two of these will do fine.

Other question: Are there any fancy, super strong pegs for pegboard? I hung some of my Ryobi stuff and the metal pegs sagged and bent.

McTinkerson
Jul 5, 2007

Dreaming of Shock Diamonds


Rhyno posted:

I have the whole length of the wall so I figure two of these will do fine.

Other question: Are there any fancy, super strong pegs for pegboard? I hung some of my Ryobi stuff and the metal pegs sagged and bent.

Do you own a 3D printer? ABS or some of the fancier PLA's should be strong enough to hold any tool. Plus you can make the pegs specific to that tool.

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

Also, keep in mind that Ryobi One+ has lanyards that can help with storage: https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-ONE-Tool-Lanyard-2-Pack-P922/303325962

Rhyno
Mar 22, 2003
Probation
Can't post for 10 years!

meatpimp posted:

Also, keep in mind that Ryobi One+ has lanyards that can help with storage: https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-ONE-Tool-Lanyard-2-Pack-P922/303325962

Holy poo poo yeah.

The Royal Nonesuch
Nov 1, 2005

Motronic posted:

That's not really a good storage solution. Typically one would use a 4 post for storage.


Yes. It depends on the lift and max weight, but you're typically going to need thicker/higher PSI concrete than one would normally pour for a residential garage floor.


NitroSpazzz posted:

Just echoing what Motronic said. A two post lift isn't for storage and will need extra or reinforced concrete poured. A four post lift is great for storage and I think you can get away with a normal concrete pour, or at least less than a two post.

Quick grab from an Atlas two post

Thanks guys, that's the stuff I need to know. Will spec for a four-post.

LloydDobler
Oct 15, 2005

You shared it with a dick.

The cool part about 4 posts is that many of them don't even need to be attached to the floor. So they have accessory caster jacks that you can use to move it around or even out of the garage if you need to for whatever reason. If my ceiling was 2 ft taller I'd already have one so I could fit all 3 cars in the garage.

The Royal Nonesuch
Nov 1, 2005

The 4-posts I'm seeing in cursory googling are all ramp-types where the car sits on the tires. That's great for storage, fine for oil changes and whatnot, but a big part of why I want a lift is for ease of rotating tires and suspension work (i.e. I'll be installing lifts for a couple of my 4x4 friends in the near future). I suppose it's easy enough to bust out the jackstands for that, but is there a best of both worlds option? Overhead vehicle storage would be nice, but currently it is not a high priority.

Bulk Vanderhuge
May 2, 2009

womp womp womp womp
In general it's 2 post for car work and 4 post for car storage. You can get a reinforced pad poured where the 2 post lift will go.

For a 4 post lift you can get a rolling bridge jack or a rolling bridge platform and use a bottle jack, that would be the best of both worlds but I don't know what your budget is like.

LloydDobler
Oct 15, 2005

You shared it with a dick.

Most of the 4 post lifts I've seen have accessory jacks on a cross beam that allow you to get the tires off the treads. They are intended to allow you to do brakes and such. It's not quite as convenient as a 2 post but works well enough for a hobbyist.

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Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

The Royal Nonesuch posted:

The 4-posts I'm seeing in cursory googling are all ramp-types where the car sits on the tires. That's great for storage, fine for oil changes and whatnot, but a big part of why I want a lift is for ease of rotating tires and suspension work (i.e. I'll be installing lifts for a couple of my 4x4 friends in the near future). I suppose it's easy enough to bust out the jackstands for that, but is there a best of both worlds option? Overhead vehicle storage would be nice, but currently it is not a high priority.

Yes, this is the trade off. Look at gantry jacks. They go between the ramps and let you lift the car off of them. It's not cheap, but it's a small space storage/suspension work solution.

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