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meatpimp
May 15, 2004

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Pryor on Fire posted:

I mean there's not really any good angle to view a McMansion from

Someone's a sour puss. That's hardly a McMansion and so what if it is? This isn't "Show us your design aesthetic regarding modern residence design," it's Garage/Workshop chat.

For me, this thread is tough. I gave up a nice under-house garage like OneOverZero has for a suburban existence. I at least held out for an extra-wide 3 car garage. Even so, I'm always hurting for space. Luckily, shortly after we moved here, Linens & Things closed and I bought their towel aisle. I think it was around $300 and that yielded over 50' of commercial slatwall and 60' of commercial shelving. I've still got a few dozen loose shelves and some shelf framing in my basement. One of the best buys ever.

I didn't get a shot of the whole haul, but here's in-process with most of the slatwall up. (This is almost 10 years ago, the garage is much more full and the car is gone.)

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meatpimp
May 15, 2004

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Pulling the chat back from the dead.

It is unseasonably warm here right now and I took the opportunity yesterday to start digging out my mess of a garage/workspace. I need to make some changes and need advice:

1) Water. I have one spigot centrally located, but it's at the bottom of a wall in the back of 20" deep shelves. This makes it a pain in the rear end to get to. Right now I have a hose coiled on the floor, but it's also right where I park the BMW. So, to use water, I need to back the car out, crouch/kneel down to turn the water on, then get to it. I know it's a first-world inconvenience, but an inconvenience nonetheless.

To fix that, I want to go to some kind of hose reel, but haven't thought any further.

2) Light. Right now I have two 4-bulb flourescent fixtures that I updated to LED several years ago (I don't remember whether I bypassed the ballasts or if they used the ballasts). I don't know if they've dimmed or if I am just looking for more, but I'm looking for more. In addition to that, I have one of the Costco 4' 2-tube fixtures attached to each of two garage door openers.

To improve that, I want to either replace the bulbs in the 4-bulb fixtures, or upgrade the fixtures themselves. Also, I'd like to upgrade the lighting attached to the openers.

I am fully okay with going with stupid-bright commercial fixtures if I can do so economically. No such thing as too much light.

Those are the two biggies, what say you, AI?

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

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cakesmith handyman posted:

My garage is cold as poo poo so I never go in it in winter and still have to keep a heater on so the beer/meat fridge/freezer doesn't stop working. I'm going to insulate the roof cavity, should I do the floor (concrete) or walls (block/cavity/brick) next? If I do the floor it'll be 25mm board insulation then 3/4" OSB. The walls would be battens then either plasterboard or OSB, either way I paint them white and screw tools and French cleats everywhere.

Walls, for sure.

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

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Mr. Powers posted:

I am currently happy to have room to walk around the project in the garage. I am trying to get this place (condo with 1 car garage under) ready to sell. My hope is to find a place with a nice garage/workshop area.

Does anyone have tips on how to get a real estate agent to hone in on the homes with usable garage workshop space? When I was doing some recon online I found a few houses that have sizeable detached garages, but they've all disappeared.

Garages are almost always overlooked in house listings. When I moved, I made sure the realtor knew that I needed at least a 3 bay garage. That eliminated a lot of houses, but at least it was an easily identifiable metric. My brother just bought a house with a 2-car door, but it had about 3 feet extra on one side and 4 feet extra on the other side. That was a super-nice surprise that wasn't anywhere on the listing.

My wife thinks that nobody notices garage space and I maintain that our garage will be a selling feature with 16' of floor-to-ceiling 2' deep shelving and 30' of slatwall. She'll see.

Basically, good luck because garages are neglected in real estate listings. Even outbuildings barely get a mention... and I've seen a nice property with 20x30 shops with a lift listed as "nice big outdoor shed"

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

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wallaka posted:

I have two screw-types and they're not loud. There isn't any drive noise like a chain drive. The loudest noise definitely comes from the rollers.

These quieted my doors down a ton. https://www.amazon.com/Ultra-Life-R...ge+door+rollers

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

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some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!



Mr. Powers posted:

Is there a standard dimension for "car with room to move around it"? Will be a good reference to have when I'm looking at listings. someone earlier said they had asked for 1k sqft, but I guess I have no mental image for size for that.

Here's the footprint of my garage. It's a 3 bay with 2 being 20' deep and 1 being 18' deep. I have 2' deep shelves at the back of the 2 bay and a 2' deep workbench at the back of the single. That means I can park something as big as a non-extended Escalade on the 2 bay and it's tight. I can park something as small as an MR2 in the single bay and it's tight.

But, I can park anything I want diagonally in the 2 bay and do anything I want.

Note that there's no "standard" for garage space. My dad has a 3 bay that is rectangular at 30x23 and, while the extra depth is nice, those missing 2' in width makes it really tight for him when he's got 3 reasonable cars in there, and when he had a Tundra, it was like sardine packing.

So yeah, there's really no standard, and unless you are lucky and can find dimensions on your county auditor site or some such, you may be just swinging in the dark.

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meatpimp
May 15, 2004

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Rhyno posted:

Best LED shop lights? Still Costco?

I, too, have this question. Ideally something that can string together.

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

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Rhyno posted:

I hung my crappy ones up and they're dimmer than the single LED bulbs in the ceiling lights, looked at LED tubes which cost more than LED fixtures on average (for a single tube).

I'm running a mix in my garage right now -- I have an older Costco 2-strip light tied to each garage door opener and two 4x4' florescent fixtures retrofitted to LEDs, again, older. They are okay, but a newer setup is going to give me more light and more light is better.

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

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Okay thread, this is ridiculous. I have a bad habit of not putting tools away when I'm done with a project. That's been taken to an extreme and I've got poo poo from one end of the bench to the other in various depths. That needs to change.

My classes end this week, so I've got time to organize this shithole. I've got a great workbench that I built, but you cannot see it through all of the garbage. Time to get cleaning.

At present:

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meatpimp
May 15, 2004

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Boaz MacPhereson posted:

What kind of wall paneling is that? I think something super modular like the slats would be the best solution for me.

Commercial slatwall, I posted a picture a while ago in this thread, I love it. You can see the edge of the workbench on the left of the picture below.

meatpimp posted:

For me, this thread is tough. I gave up a nice under-house garage like OneOverZero has for a suburban existence. I at least held out for an extra-wide 3 car garage. Even so, I'm always hurting for space. Luckily, shortly after we moved here, Linens & Things closed and I bought their towel aisle. I think it was around $300 and that yielded over 50' of commercial slatwall and 60' of commercial shelving. I've still got a few dozen loose shelves and some shelf framing in my basement. One of the best buys ever.

I didn't get a shot of the whole haul, but here's in-process with most of the slatwall up. (This is almost 10 years ago, the garage is much more full and the car is gone.)


meatpimp fucked around with this message at 20:55 on May 6, 2019

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

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meatpimp posted:

Okay thread, this is ridiculous. I have a bad habit of not putting tools away when I'm done with a project. That's been taken to an extreme and I've got poo poo from one end of the bench to the other in various depths. That needs to change.

My classes end this week, so I've got time to organize this shithole. I've got a great workbench that I built, but you cannot see it through all of the garbage. Time to get cleaning.

At present:



Making progress. I'm also tackling the 16' wall of shelves during the project. Probably 2 days of work done at this point and a random glance doesn't show it looking much different.

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

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Suburban Dad posted:

Anything else I should be thinking about or considering right now? Concrete 4" thick should be good for a lift in the future (?), but I'll check on ceiling height since I don't know what the trusses will look like with a "shed" style roof. Honestly a max jack is probably best case scenario at this point I'd guess.

I'm going to talk to him about insulating and drywall and expand on what the electrical "package" means. Obviously need to know what's planned there before drywall. Currently we have a big window on the exterior side of the existing garage that we're planning on turning into a big opening (no door planned) to the new garage, so makes sense to insulate it even though there's not going to be any HVAC to either garage. Also window on the room behind existing garage will be turned into a door most likely for another access point from inside the house.

Is he handling permits and inspections? Some areas are tight on that, others don't care. I walled up a loft to make a bedroom and I had to give plans, have a rough inspection and a final inspection to keep everything "on the books," all for 2 partition walls, a closet and a couple outlets.

Also, spray foam insulation on everything.

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

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Suburban Dad posted:

Yes, they're doing permits and all that as well.

I've done a few pieces of fiberglass before and while it's itchy and kind of sucks, it's not too hard. I'm debating if I let them leave it bare and do the insulation and drywall myself eventually. That leaves electrical options open in case we don't want to spend as much up front since already this is a big expense. However, I am a terrible carpenter and it will look much shittier if I do this.

Is the R value better with spray? Sounds potentially easier but possibly messier to do but costs more from my 5 seconds of searching.

Spray foam has comparable R value to fiberglass, in general, but it also performs better as an air barrier, since it's sealing all the nooks and cracks. It's the one thing I really wish I had in a 20 year old house, just for the energy savings and the air sealing. All the little holes and gaps add up, and the spray foam is a 1-stop fix for all the stuffs.

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

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Suburban Dad posted:

So I talked to the architect about the roof and rafters, and it sounds like there won't really need to be a truss/beams going across the ceiling and I can have the roof be the ceiling if I want, or they can make it flat. I'm trying to think of future additional storage and also bonus roof height for lift, etc. so I may go this route and leave it open. Makes it more expensive to insulate (spray foam) if I decide to do that. So many decisions.

It's getting drawn up now and sounds like they should start on it within a few weeks, and estimate 3-4 weeks to complete it.

Worth it.

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

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Looks like 2x12 joists, which is definitely heavier than "normal." I'd have no worries with car stuff, though I'd probably put some cross bracing in the middle of each side.

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

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So since I am redoing a big chunk of our house due to a dishwasher leak, I'm doing a lot of the work myself. I am in the process of taking out some soffits in the kitchen and need to do some cutting. I figured... why would I use my old, beat-up Craftsman circular saw that I cut through the cord in the '90s and wire nutted it back together... when I could just buy a new Milwaukee m18 fuel 6 1/2" circular saw for the cutting.

Edit: poo poo, thought it was the tool thread.

meatpimp fucked around with this message at 22:07 on Oct 18, 2019

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

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Motronic posted:

Seriously, what a great haul.

Most of my friends who have gotten great poo poo like that was because they were in the right place at the right time when some shop or store closed down. One of them has his garage ringed in shelving from a closed down CVS and drat commercial shelving is sturdy. And a lot of it is very configurable.

I can attest to this, my garage consists of the towel aisle of our former local Linens 'n' Things. Fully aluminum channeled slatwall is the solution to all of your storage woes.

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

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Spray foam insulation in all the voids.

And the lighting of a thousand suns.

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

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Powershift posted:

If you need help avoiding an expensive in-ground lift, this might help.

http://www.yaplakal.com/forum11/topic2019829.html

#3 and #11 are the same. But seriously, how did you find such a current link?

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

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cakesmith handyman posted:

Don't know of a better place to put this but the guys at work needed better lighting in the workshop so I sorted it.




2 X 66,360 lumen units, 460w each. A4 paper for scale.

Request for source, price, and pics with them fired up.

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

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cakesmith handyman posted:

A sodding ridiculous amount of light.

Source is CEF for £530 each without VAT, we get a slight discount too. Pictures when installed properly.

The specs on those look amazing. I need to source something like that in freedom land.

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

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some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!



Rhyno posted:

I want to build a new work bench to replace the cut up doors the previous owner left behind.I just need a simple bench with a shelf below. Google gives me way too many options and suggestions, what's the goon go to?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QNFnyD8gAYc

Tailor to your needs/wants. Watch as program creep takes you into places you've never considered before.

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

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some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!



Also, keep in mind that Ryobi One+ has lanyards that can help with storage: https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-O...-P922/303325962

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

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BlackMK4 posted:

Long story short, I bought a condo back in January and I am starting to figure out how the thing is built. I'm getting around to throwing LEDs in my garage, so I removed one of the fluorescent fixtures since I need to put in an outlet where it is to plug in one or two of the LEDs.

I found that the fixture was hardwired with a round ceiling box that has a 2.75" screw spacing, and that ceiling box is held by one of the braces that connects between two joists. The garage ceiling is double 5/8" drywall so I really want to avoid loving with it more than I already have.

Question becomes - can I replace the round ceiling box with a metal single or double gang with a GFCI receptacle in there, or do I need to cut two more holes so I can replace it with an entire brace assembly with box? Looks like the single gang has the same mounting holes as the old round box. I really don't want to cut a bunch of holes to run wire and mount boxes to joists, but if I have to... well.




Gfci is typically for damp locations, is something driving that need? Or would this work? https://www.gordonelectricsupply.co...WhoCrC0QAvD_BwE

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

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angryrobots posted:

He's in the electrical thread now with this question, but yes GFCI is required for anything in a garage.. Though having one on the ceiling runs afoul of the requirement that it's accessible. So you protect it via an upstream receptacle, or GFCI breaker.

Interesting, I didn't know that was a code update. Looks like GFCI in the garage was required in 2008. My 1999 house is lacking that. I'll have to look into that next round of updates. Thanks!

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

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opengl128 posted:

That rules.

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

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sharkytm posted:

Sure. If you don't care about it flaking off in a year.

Or you can pay double and get 2 years.

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

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Rhyno posted:

So there are a few local epoxy installers, what kind of warranty is acceptable? I see options from 3 to 6 years at various costs.

That sounds impossibly short for a permanent home installation. I'd look for no less than 20, or I'd worry about product/application issues.

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

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Rhyno posted:

I can't find anyone offering more than 8 locally.

First hit on a google search for "epoxy floor warranty indiana" came up with lifetime: https://www.garageexperts.com/locat...th-west-indiana

But that's for NW Indiana... who knows what NE Indiana does.

Edit: NE Indiana 15 years to lifetime: https://www.penntekcoatings.com/dea...floor-coatings/

Do I need to pull your google license?

Edit 2: This company services NE Indiana and offers epoxy slurry. That's what you want if you can afford it. It's a layer of epoxy mixed with aggregate about 1/8-1/4" thick, or more. It's bombproof.

meatpimp fucked around with this message at 21:00 on May 8, 2020

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

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frrtbkr posted:

thek: holy smokes, nice setup!

Crunchy whatís the ď50Ē grille badge?

Iíve been packing up my junk and finally got access to the garages today. Should be in the house Friday night. You can see the new service mast up on the right corner of the roof but Iím still waiting on the garage meter to get the cut in half water jug replaced with a glass cover by National Grid.



When your garage footprint is bigger than the house's, you're doing it right. Are you going to open up any of the bays, or leave them as individual? Renting any out? Seems like a ton of possibilities with something like that.

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meatpimp
May 15, 2004

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Light chat -- I've needed more light in my garage for a while. I started out with two 4-bulb 4' florescent and 1 bulb in each of the 2 door openers. A few years ago, I replaced the florescents with led and the tied the door openers into Costco 2 tube led fixtures with a plug adapter in the sockets. That was okay for a while. It's been... okay, but not great.

Yesterday I replaced one of the Costco 2 tube fixtures with four 36w Amazon 2 tube leds: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TM97LWY

Big difference.



Old Costco on the left, old 4 tube on the right. You can't tell from the picture, but the row of 4 fixtures absolutely dominates the light output. I think I'll get 4 more and hook them up to the other door opener, then get new led replacement tubes. I just need to get back into those fixtures, I think I removed the ballast and hardwired the leds in when I did it, so I'll have to see what the modern replacement is.

Output per dollar, though? Those Amazon lights are pretty nice. And yes, I need to dust the garage ceiling.

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