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I'd say if you can afford it, you won't regret it especially in a small space. You can certainly work around it if necessary but yeah a lift is in the way whenever you don't need a lift.
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Jul 17, 2017 23:56
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mekilljoydammit posted:Well, getting deeper and deeper in the planning rabbithole. Any off-the-cuff opinion on how hard it will be to get the power company to run 3-phase to a new shop I'd build? I live in a rural part of SE Wisconsin and have power poles on my property, so presumably it's not as outlandish as someone living in a subdivision, but I dunno. Like slung blade said, it depends on how far the 3 phase is from you. For a shop, unless you're installing a huge load you'll probably get a 120/240/208 two pot bank, which isn't "true" 3 phase but will run everything. But you can always get a phase converter if utility 3 phase is too expensive.
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Sep 9, 2017 11:55
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Definitely go with 10' ceiling height.
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Sep 10, 2017 21:51
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That's really cool and the specs say it will easily lift my 12x12 shop doors. I like the design too, I mean that's clearly more efficient to drive the shaft directly right?
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Sep 17, 2017 14:28
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I've had a crazy busy 4 years since buying this place, and my pile-o-scrap material has gotten extreme. I bought this cheap material rack a few weeks ago and finally put it together...I think it will do nicely. It was missing most of the assembly hardware, but nothing I couldn't replace from the mixed bolt and nut bin. I'll spare you any before pictures, it was pretty  . Apparently the stuff on the bottom was getting wet and staying that way.  As you can see, it's not done. Some of that is now junk. Anyway its nice to finally start getting this place organized, been making other improvements I'll post up eventually. 
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Oct 6, 2017 00:09
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Based on that, if I was drawing this up as your electric coop, assuming the power comes down in the vicinity of your driveway (probable since you said the meter base was on that side) - I'd add an access vault mid-span across from the shop and dig a service over to it. Assuming the conductor size is adequate of course. If it isn't, may have to dig all the way from the road, unless you're lucky and the existing service happens to be in pipe. Edit - the utility boxes in the yard, what do they look like and what is their location?
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Oct 12, 2017 15:58
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The small box that doesn't hum is a high voltage junction cabinet. The second one is the transformer, yes. 15 kva. You're golden on utility power. They can run straight from the transformer to your building. No idea on your cost - every coop handles that differently. Here it would be $300 flat fee for up to 150', and $2 per foot beyond that.
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Oct 12, 2017 16:56
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Neat lift. Is the plywood to cover the (trench? hole? depression)? It does seem like a bit of a trip hazard when you're eyes up looking at the underside of the vehicle. Sucks about the measurements being wrong. The concrete was done so nice and sharp...
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Aug 22, 2018 21:55
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meatpimp posted:Basically, good luck because garages are neglected in real estate listings. Even outbuildings barely get a mention... and I've seen a nice property with 20x30 shops with a lift listed as "nice big outdoor shed" This is absolutely the case. My property had a 40x60 metal building and there was one picture, zoomed in from I'm guessing the house cause they couldn't be arsed to walk over there. Listing had lots of pictures of the terrible dated and worn house interior which was a foreclosure and looked it. Our gain, fortunately. When we listed my wife's house, I had completely remodeled the (stick built) 8x8 shed. Built a new ramp, installed new floor, painted and trimmed the outside so it looked real sharp. Installed a new light and receptacles inside. Got one crappy picture in the listing and dunno if even a mention in the description. House got a full price offer in 5 days tho.
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Feb 10, 2019 16:26
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NitroSpazzz posted:
Is the garage space sealed up well? What kind of wall/ceiling covering do you have?
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Feb 14, 2019 01:52
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NitroSpazzz posted:It isn't. Walls are painted block, ceilings are open framing. It's very 'unfinished' in that regard...as well as the lighting/electrical I have yet to find time to install in the back half. From a safety perspective, that's an issue even if you're not doing auto work in the garage. A modern build would sheetrock the walls and ceilings, giving air sealing properties as well as fire resistance.
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Feb 16, 2019 00:04
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meatpimp posted:Okay thread, this is ridiculous. I have a bad habit of not putting tools away when I'm done with a project. That's been taken to an extreme and I've got poo poo from one end of the bench to the other in various depths. That needs to change. Well I feel better now
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May 6, 2019 20:00
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Fuckit, cross posting why not. Last Thursday I contacted a recommended contractor for quotes to build on some (completely self supported) lean-tos, to my shop. I heard from him this Wednesday and clarified what I wanted, sent drawings and site pictures. Yesterday he called me mid-day and asked "how soon did you want to start this?"   30x24 is done except for trim, 40x12 is up next.
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Aug 3, 2019 22:02
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Sheds are done.  Not sure exactly what I'm doing next, which is a good thing cause that definitely killed my OT money from the past year. That window is a framed out space that was used as an office that I intend to remodel into an apartment with an indoor/outdoor kitchen. In no particular order, to do this I need to: -get septic redone, it's an ancient cinder block tank with unknown leech field capacity. Also the lid is homemade and a single slab @ 7'x3'. In the words of my septic guy "I've been doing this for 30 years and I've never seen that before" as he's taking pictures to show the other guys back at the shop. Quoted me a decent price to make it right though. -cut that window into a door. Also possibly add another window on the other wall where the kitchen(ette) will be. -figure out how I want to add a small shower to the bathroom, and cut the slab to redo the drain lines to accommodate. -probably remove the old r13 fiberglass and get spray foam after plumbing/electrical edits are complete. I want the apartment to be completely cut off from the shop area with it's fumes, etc. The interior doors from the shop to the office area will at a minimum have to swap to exterior doors but probably I'll just remove them and leave the single new exterior door. -everything else 
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Aug 17, 2019 19:26
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OMFG those shelves are awesome
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Oct 18, 2019 20:57
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Very nice!
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Dec 9, 2019 13:50
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He's in the electrical thread now with this question, but yes GFCI is required for anything in a garage.. Though having one on the ceiling runs afoul of the requirement that it's accessible. So you protect it via an upstream receptacle, or GFCI breaker.BlackMK4 posted:The rework boxes like that don’t accommodate the extra layer of drywall, I have some here that I tried. I could hack up the upper layer of drywall, but that seems ghetto. You can use a longer screw on the mounting tab, to accommodate the extra later of wallboard. angryrobots fucked around with this message at 14:46 on Apr 5, 2020 |
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Apr 5, 2020 14:38
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tehk posted:Anyone have a wall mount shop vac they can recommend? Nice shop. I'm still partial to my vac/cart rig. The vac itself is intended to be wall hung and has a small hose that IMO is ideal for automotive work, if you don't like the cart part. It has a wall bracket and easily pops off for mobile use angryrobots posted:I bought that small shop vac with the wall bracket, and decided to do something different with it-
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May 16, 2020 02:29
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tehk posted:All that said if I could do it over I’d save up the 8k to get a challenger inground two cylinder style lift. Nothing I hate more than post. Especially two posts. My four post are usually out of the way but two are always where I want them the least. Everyone's first question when they come in my shop is "why don't you have a lift" and they look at me like I'm crazy when I say it would be in the way all the time. Like, busting out the creeper or cardboard isn't that big of a deal? I also want the in-ground lift but it's gonna have to wait for other more pressing (  ) projects.
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May 29, 2020 01:41
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A boring, but very big QOL improvement. I got my busted roll-up doors replaced. Before   After   Went with 3-layer insulated commercial doors.  But, I can legitimately tell a big difference. Next is having the roof repaired, got a few leaks and I can't find em.
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Jun 28, 2020 00:22
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SE USA, so no real winter and not heated or cooled, but very hot summers and the doors are east facing. The rest of it is partially insulated, getting that finished is another stretch goal for this year. I have some electrical to run first, among everything else.
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Jun 28, 2020 15:01
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sharkytm posted:The existing UniStrut was spaced 2.5" on center, which was perfectly wrong. The CoxReel mounting plate had 4" spaced holes/slots, which meant I could only use one of the pairs of holes in the UniStrut. The edges of the pieces of UniStrut were just over 4", so I couldn't span the strut and put a couple of bars over it to clamp the reel in place. The spacing the other way was perfect to not line up with the UniStrut holes. So, I drilled 2 more holes spaced 2.5", and did a mongrel combo of thru-bolts and UniStrut nuts.  They sell the more common varieties in Lowe's, but this page is a nice example of what available.
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Sep 11, 2020 19:02
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Ah, I wondered why only two were visible through the top. I guess I do trust spring nuts, but your way is certainly very sturdy. Something you may find useful in your metal building - these 3/8 threaded beam clamps. They're threaded on two faces, which opens up opportunity to use them in all sorts of (probably unintended by the manufacturer) interesting ways hanging shelving and what not on vertical beams without drilling holes.
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Sep 12, 2020 00:32
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It's a deck with a building on top! Nah, it's probably concrete. Wasn't there a goon years ago who had an upstairs garage with a wood floor? Like, house was on the edge of a hill or something.
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Oct 13, 2020 19:52
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Broadly speaking, I prefer the LED tube replacements if they're available and cost effective. Sure it's not an 8' fixture with the FA8 single pin ends? The LED replacements I'm seeing are very expensive compared to the more common 4' and 8' tubes. Is it a single bulb length or double 3' bulbs? Anyway, the reason I prefer the replacement LED bulbs is that eventually it will fail and to me it makes more sense to replace a bulb than an entire fixture, especially if they're hardwired in conduit like that ones in my shop. Mine are still in service in an unconditioned metal building for about 7 years. I've had one bulb failure, and a few that have a small section of LEDs out, but overall I'm happy with their performance and durability. That being said, if it's one fixture, it's no hardship to replace it with the Costco or whatever currently most cost effective one is. angryrobots fucked around with this message at 17:34 on Jan 24, 2021 |
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Jan 24, 2021 17:32
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