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CancerCakes posted:Sounds positive anyway, good job. Are you going fully flat roof or monopitch? The latter, I think.
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Apr 9, 2021 19:01
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What options do we have for flat roofs these days? Assuming not 90s tar style, it's what, rubber, fibreglass, anything else?
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Apr 10, 2021 15:47
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I think most will do epdm on OSB or similar. We don't really get felt tiles like in the us, but considering the horror stories in the construction thread that is for the best. I suppose you *could* slate it but the expense and extra weight is up to you. I came across this site, seems pretty good for insulation: https://www.secondsandco.co.uk/kingspanshop
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Apr 10, 2021 17:18
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Jaded Burnout posted:What options do we have for flat roofs these days? Assuming not 90s tar style, it's what, rubber, fibreglass, anything else? On residential side of things you now see SIPs and green roofs.
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Apr 10, 2021 17:25
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CancerCakes posted:I think most will do epdm on OSB or similar. We don't really get felt tiles like in the us, but considering the horror stories in the construction thread that is for the best. I suppose you *could* slate it but the expense and extra weight is up to you. Noted, thanks. iv46vi posted:On residential side of things you now see SIPs and green roofs. I was just looking at green roofs. It looks like they're relatively affordable to buy as kits, but in any case they go on top of a normal waterproofing system, but it would e.g. mean that an EPDM roof would be more puncture resistant. They are heavy, though, like 75kg/sqm, so it would require some really beefy joists, like 3x8s at 400mm centers (for the 5m open span I have to cover). So, maybe a £200 price difference in materials to support the weight. Not too bad.
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Apr 10, 2021 17:58
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EPDM is king for ease/time of install, there are companies offering 50 year warranties on their thicker products. It's pretty trivial to patch damage (with the correct materials/glues). I don't know enough about green roofs to offer anything other than the opinion "I think they're nice"
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Apr 11, 2021 08:37
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I've done some research and I'm going for EPDM. The builder preferred fibreglass because it's less of a pain to flash in the skylights, and I agree with him on that, but fibreglass is a real dick to work with *after* it's installed, which matters more to me (see previous adventures in skylights). So I'm going to tell him I'll build and install the upstands and install the skylights (with lifting help this time) and that should remove a hassle point on his side (and I get to make sure it's done right first time this time).
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Apr 11, 2021 08:52
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Jaded Burnout posted:They are heavy, though, like 75kg/sqm, so it would require some really beefy joists, like 3x8s at 400mm centers (for the 5m open span I have to cover). This can’t be right can it, how thick does the soil / substrate need to be? I wouldn’t expect even a foot deep sq metre of compost to weigh 75kg.
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Apr 11, 2021 11:40
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wooger posted:This can’t be right can it, how thick does the soil / substrate need to be? I think it's the water as much as anything. https://www.ansgroupglobal.com/green-roof/technical/my-building-strong-enough-green-roof
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Apr 11, 2021 11:57
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The volume of a foot deep, square meter cube is about 300L, so 75kg feels on the low side for that much material. If it was solely water it'd weigh around 300kg.
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Apr 11, 2021 12:11
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Yeah I can't speak to the density of compost, but I know damp soil is real heavy. Here's my latest comms to the builder, I'll probably get on to the nitty gritty later today. JB over email posted:I'm going to have to take some measurements to come back with a really accurate spec, but the summary is we're going to stick with the original plan up to the finished floor level, then stick build above that. I've gone over the engineer's calculations and it's not safe to have heavy machinery on normal timber floors; the usual planned load is 0.75kN/sqm, and we need to support more like 5kN/sqm (which the block & beam supports).
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Apr 11, 2021 12:18
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lol the insulation I had priced up like a year ago at 30quid a sheet is now £100! kill me
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Apr 12, 2021 12:31
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I'm concerned enough about pushing the edge of pre-defined span tables etc that I'm going to have the structural engineer take another pass at the new design. I need to redraw a bunch of the elevations in at least a basic way, and checking the openings, piers etc are still safe is beyond my ability, but I'm comfortable enough that we'll fit everything in, and the SEng can do the rest. 
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Apr 16, 2021 12:49
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New sketch (with copious notes) sent to the engineer.
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Apr 17, 2021 20:14
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I'm glad you labelled the concrete also do you have beam and block floor beams inside the wall? I think that isnt how it would be. save on a couple of beams be like one of these: 
NotJustANumber99 fucked around with this message at 21:55 on Apr 17, 2021 |
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Apr 17, 2021 21:46
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NotJustANumber99 posted:I'm glad you labelled the concrete Everything gets a label. No ambiguity. Ambiguity leads to misunderstanding. Misunderstanding leads to me having to redo something in a year. NotJustANumber99 posted:also do you have beam and block floor beams inside the wall? I think that isnt how it would be. save on a couple of beams I was following the engineer's drawings: 
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Apr 17, 2021 23:03
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oh ok thats interesting. Not how mine were drawn is all. I really wonder if anyone knows what theyre doing or its just always find someone else whose done this and its fine. Although when you order the beams I guess they'll say what they think. I got mine from longley. they seem good? although actually they only I think do 175mm deep beams not 155 which youll probably want to go with. is that damp course at external ground level? lol. editing back and forth. I asked my builder how that damp/radon(? ive got similiar) barrier is supposed to be done with insulated cavity literally passing through it with only a tiny bit left beneath. shrug shoulders. Doesnt make sense. NotJustANumber99 fucked around with this message at 23:08 on Apr 20, 2021 |
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Apr 20, 2021 22:57
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NotJustANumber99 posted:oh ok thats interesting. Not how mine were drawn is all. I really wonder if anyone knows what theyre doing or its just always find someone else whose done this and its fine. I don't know if you're asking about the engineer drawings or my new ones, but tbh I'm only going to be using the engineer's drawings as a guide when it comes to the less structural considerations, and following manufacturer's instructions where possible. wrt to the DPC, in my drawing I have it at 150mm, basically extending the foundation blockwork up out of the ground to 150mm, sticking a DPC on that, then stick construction above that. I'm totally winging that though, so the engineer or builder may want to change that. As for DPM, I don't think you need to connect it to the external leaf DPC. My understanding is that the external DPC stops rising damp in that leaf only, then you need to be careful to keep moisture separation between the inner and outer (even with full fill insulation you leave a small gap), and then bond the internal DPM to the internal DPC. It's somewhat moot in my case because a) we're moving to single leaf and b) the manufacturer instructions for the insulation I'm looking at (jablite) explicitly says that you don't need a DPM for moisture reasons when putting jabfloor on top of a vented beam & block floor, and I've no reason to think I need it for radon. So I guess that's fine then.
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Apr 21, 2021 09:02
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Jaded Burnout posted:As for DPM, I don't think you need to connect it to the external leaf DPC. What is the diagonal line crossing your cavity on the engineers drawing? How do you intend to vent the beam and block voids through a single leaf wall? NotJustANumber99 fucked around with this message at 21:57 on Apr 21, 2021 |
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Apr 21, 2021 21:55
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NotJustANumber99 posted:What is the diagonal line crossing your cavity on the engineers drawing? gently caress if I know. Apparently the engineer also doesn't do the engineering on the beam & block, saying that's done by a specialist provider, so probably very little of this drawing can be trusted. NotJustANumber99 posted:How do you intend to vent the beam and block voids through a single leaf wall? A good question. I suppose the vent will need to come up out of the ground outside.
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Apr 22, 2021 07:21
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Currently in ongoing email exchanges with both the builder and the engineer getting quotes for their part of the work. I suspect the builder is going to highball me.
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Apr 22, 2021 15:34
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Well duh he's a builder
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Apr 22, 2021 19:58
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Nothing motivates me like an external deadline, and the landscapers are supposed to show up next week, so there's some parts of the garden I need to get sorted before then. Chief among them is the refixing of the section of cladding by the fence. The expansion of the wood there forced the junction box half off the wall, so that needs fixing first. Checked the fusebox, but we'd already temporarily swapped out that circuit to power the table saw, so nothing needs doing there.  I found some weatherproof silicone but couldn't find by caulking gun, so had to get a new one. I was going to screwfix to pick up some marking spray anyway, so no big deal. Gun and finisher.  "Builder's silicone" which is apparently a very flexible sealant, UV resistant, weatherproof, plus some silicone remover in case I need it, because I'm bad with a caulking gun and often make a mess.  The marking paint I'd already ordered. I need some and it was on sale. I don't know if "No Nonsense" is specifically a screwfix brand but they stock a lot of it.  The box.   Remove the little screw sealer plugs.   The plastic did not stand up to the force of expanding wood.  Couldn't find any washers that were the right size to fit in the hollows and also retain a screw, so I opted to put some on the outside instead.  The top right screw still didn't hold because it really needs an internal washer, and the bottom right screw wasn't holding in the wall anymore.  A delicate and targeted application of sealant.  The boards won't go back on it, because everything has shifted down.  So before I can proceed I need to shift everything upwards and fix it in place.  This took several hours.  And still didn't give me enough room to fit the board.  It's OK though, I have plenty of spare, so I'll cut some new ones to fit the new locations. I was hoping to get more done today but this all just ate up the entire day.
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Apr 24, 2021 19:31
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Removed the busted boards and cut a new one. Feeling very Farmer's Dynasty.   Cut a new one for around the electrical box. Doesn't have to be perfect, I'll make a cover for it.    Still making use of the spacer template.   Clean up the bottom piece and refit it.   Couldn't be bothered going upstairs for the plastic packers, so I just snapped up some of the broken board.   Can reuse this board, but it needs cutting up and trimming now that everything has expanded downwards.  Quick blast on the mitre saw and table saw and That'll Do.  Certified Adequate. 
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Apr 25, 2021 18:33
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Good job, those boards and weathering nicely. Are you going to build a deck to match?
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Apr 25, 2021 23:38
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Deck, probably. Matching? Dunno.
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Apr 26, 2021 09:16
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I've been meaning to empty my workbench dust collector since it's been running underpowered. Finally got around to it today and it was only a third full. Ah, that'll do it. "Fixed" 
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Apr 26, 2021 10:42
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I feel like I've posted this exact sentence before. That's probably how I'd fix it, too.
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Apr 26, 2021 18:08
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It's a type of duct, so duct tape is appropriate. Actually, I prefer gaffer tape for most "duct tape" situations lately. That stuff is amazing (and a bit expensive.)
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Apr 27, 2021 19:40
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Yeah those bendable hoses suck (or don’t) once they get a crack
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Apr 29, 2021 08:08
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Progress with labour suppliers is so loving slow if I don't get a final quote on Monday I'm buying ground screws and doing the whole thing myself. I started planning this build in December and now it's May without a material ordered or ground worked. Oh and my landscapers are running behind indefinitely, apparently due to supply issues for fencing.
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May 1, 2021 12:08
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I doubt it'll help but it isn't just you. I know several people having extensions / garden work done and they're all weeks or months behind with huge back order times on materials and all the contractors being insanely busy. Some kind of COVID home improvement madness coupled with supply chain issues.
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May 1, 2021 12:27
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It helps a little.
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May 1, 2021 12:31
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I'm at 9 months waiting for an electrician for the cabin and gave up trying to get a plasterer for the house. Shits mental on top of tradies being impossible to nail down at the best of times.
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May 1, 2021 13:19
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cakesmith handyman posted:I'm at 9 months waiting for an electrician for the cabin and gave up trying to get a plasterer for the house. Shits mental on top of tradies being impossible to nail down at the best of times. Me too. loving torture.
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May 1, 2021 18:24
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There are things in the papers about Brexit meaning there is a hospitality staff shortage but there were a lot of skilled trades coming from Europe too, so perhaps that is causing some issues as well as the "holy poo poo if I have to look at this kitchen for another lockdown I'll kill myself" epidemic.
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May 2, 2021 01:43
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Depending on discussions at work I may be about to quit my job, which is putting an interesting spin on reno project planning.
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May 3, 2021 22:42
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My housemate has been looking at getting a greenhouse, and basically everywhere is out of stock of everything and have been for months now. All the companies he's called up have said supply issues have been plaguing them since last year, and any stock they do get is just going straight on fulfilling backorders.
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May 3, 2021 23:11
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The_Doctor posted:My housemate has been looking at getting a greenhouse, and basically everywhere is out of stock of everything and have been for months now. All the companies he's called up have said supply issues have been plaguing them since last year, and any stock they do get is just going straight on fulfilling backorders. We have an elevated deck on the back of the house, maybe 300sqft or so, 7' off the ground. The deckboards need replaced, and my wife has wanted to get a roof put on it and screen in the walls for years. She worked a metric fuckton of OT over the last year (nurse), so we got a few quotes. The most reasonable one was $54k not including permits and drawings, and none of them knew if they'd be able to get us in before next spring. That's also right around 1/3 of what we paid for the entire house 15 years ago, which seems insane.
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May 4, 2021 03:08
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The_Doctor posted:My housemate has been looking at getting a greenhouse, and basically everywhere is out of stock of everything and have been for months now. All the companies he's called up have said supply issues have been plaguing them since last year, and any stock they do get is just going straight on fulfilling backorders. UK, US or other? But buy used, you’ll save 80 or 90% of the cost, and get it in a week. You may have to hire a van unless you have a very large car. Go for toughened glass, and a known decent quality model you can download the instructions for. I did this via Facebook marketplace, which is 100% the way in the UK. Dismantle it yourself, it’s educational.
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May 5, 2021 03:16
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