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tater_salad posted:RE woodorking.. If you don't own one of these.. get one, they rule and you'll toss those silly fin holders into one of your well organized storage bins. I'm not convinced. Yes I can see them being better than the long push sticks and even the usual flat-iron home made type, but unless I'm missing something it's still relying on all three force vectors to come from your hand, just providing better grip to make it a bit easier. At some point you're going to have to lift your hand up during a cut and/or move around the table or shift your weight, and that's where you're trying to move your body around your hands while also maintaining pressure at odd and changing angles. The featherboard does all the work on one of those vectors for me, so I can just focus on pressing down and forward. It also handles the most awkward direction for me; because it's pushing towards the fence I can stand behind the fence (the safest place to be) and not have to try to pull the work towards me or lean over the blade. Jaded Burnout fucked around with this message at 23:16 on Feb 10, 2020 |
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Feb 10, 2020 23:14
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| # ? Apr 26, 2024 14:49 |
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Gocha. I've used them and don't worry going over the blade because I've spaced it so the gripper floats over the blade.. it also lets me stand to the side a bit to protect me nards from the kickback. And yes it's 100% better than a push stick.
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Feb 10, 2020 23:29
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tater_salad posted:RE woodorking.. Heh, wood-dorking. Seems apt.
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Feb 11, 2020 01:02
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New labels arrived this morning.  This evening I decided to make a start on joining my cut pieces together. I spoke with the woodworking thread and they recommended a floating tenon since I wanted to keep as much of the length of the joined pieces as possible. So I grabbed one of the previous offcuts that was conveniently about the right thickness, and chopped 6" off. Clamped up the two pieces just for alignment and drew on the mortices.   Saw cuts.   Chiselling.  Two mistakes here. 1, I cut the mortice too wide. Probably cut on the line and didn't take account of the kerf.  2, while I did chisel a relief into the top at the base of the mortice, I didn't on the underside, so at some point I blew out the back beyond the reach of the mortice.  No big deal really, it was my first try after all. First let's fix the first issue, fortunately I have more offcuts that I've kept hold of, one of which is a good thickness for shims.  Second, I found the blown out piece from underneath and trimmed it to size, and replaced it. Glued it all up.  In hindsight I should've waited before gluing until I had the other mortice ready to go so I could clamp the splints on again for alignment's sake, but it'll probably be fine. Jaded Burnout fucked around with this message at 00:52 on Feb 13, 2020 |
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Feb 13, 2020 00:50
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Jaded Burnout posted:but it'll probably be fine. Famous last words.
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Feb 13, 2020 00:59
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Jaded Burnout posted:Second, I found the blown out piece from underneath and trimmed it to size, and replaced it. Glued it all up. Jaded Burnout posted:
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Feb 13, 2020 01:17
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I hope you put something on your floor so you don't get glue on your nice tile. I probably should, though it's only PVA.
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Feb 13, 2020 10:13
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Glue dried. Trimmed flat. Going to need some filling later.   Redoing the line up with the other piece.   Keeping well within the lines this time.  Some chisel work later, made a mistake while test fitting.  Soldiered on, was originally going to clamp it like this:  But I was concerned about alignment in the other axis so used the floor as a bit of a flat plane. I've got a suitable glass panel somewhere but I don't know where it went.  Don't worry Kaiser, there's parchment paper between the glue and the floor. While I was having lunch the RCD on half my house circuits tripped. Turns out all this torrential rain is leaking into my utility room again, this time dripping directly into the control panel for the heating system.   I put some blocking towels up and isolated that circuit so it could dry out.  Apart from being a bit dirty the roof looks OK, so it must be the fibreglass and/or wood in the corner that's causing trouble again, so I'm advancing my plans for adding some better waterproofing and attacking it tomorrow morning, which is the only few dry hours I'm going to get until next week. If I have time I'll do the other roof too, preventatively.
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Feb 13, 2020 15:25
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JB, I know we are more byob buddies then DIY but you still never cease to amaze me. You may feel like you are just doing things one small step at a time, but, really, you get poo poo done in a way that I wonder what is wrong with me! Respect!
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Feb 13, 2020 22:31
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Twenty Four posted:JB, I know we are more byob buddies then DIY but you still never cease to amaze me. You may feel like you are just doing things one small step at a time, but, really, you get poo poo done in a way that I wonder what is wrong with me! Respect! Thanks, that means a lot. But be sure not to compare your behind-the-scenes with someone else's highlight reel. There's a lot of stress and distress that you don't see.
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Feb 14, 2020 08:00
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Alright then. First run in place. Not tooooo horrendous.  Reinforced the inner corner.  Second run.  Had to basically give up nailing the inside edge by this point, because the fibreglass was somehow tougher and I was sick of hitting my fingers and/or pinging nails off into the ether.  Hit the nails and seams up with some "isoflex liquid rubber", which the manufacturer says works on fibreglass. Fuckin liars.  The only way to get any sort of seal over the join was to really glob it on, so that's what I did.    It was very good for its main purpose, which was quickly sealing the nails so I didn't have to gently caress around with mastic.  I also trimmed back the expanding foam that I'd put in last year and never trimmed, just in case it was wicking water through somehow.  I've no idea if this will all do the job, I guess we'll find out.
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Feb 14, 2020 13:03
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Time to cut more mortices. Rather than do half a dozen by hand I decided to put the cheek cuts in with the table saw and finish off with the chisels. I wanted to clamp a block to set the length of the cut but I didn't have a good way to do so, so I used tape and delicacy. Blade raised as high as possible to make the inside of the cut as up-and-down as possible, though something like a bandsaw would be better since cutting like this with a circular blade will always leave a curved partial cut.  Much neater cuts this time, and with a better fit.    So with that successfully tested, I cut the cheeks on the remaining pieces for one of the stringers, and set up a block on the sled to cut some quick tenons, and trimmed the ends of all the main pieces.    Then did the same for the other stringer's extension.  There's been 3 mistakes so far in these photos, see how many you can spot. Chiselled out the first stringer's pieces.  I made a start on the other stringer's pieces but after blowing out two of them in a row I decided I probably needed to stop, glued up a repair and called it a day.  Speaking of repairs, the roof repair from Friday seems to be holding up well.
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Feb 16, 2020 16:34
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Also delivery guy just nearly hosed my back up again by just handing me a 20kg amazon box without warning me about the weight.
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Feb 16, 2020 16:54
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All mortices cut. I got pretty decent at it by the end. Sharpening my chisel(s) helped a little maybe, perhaps I just suck at sharpening. Glue up begins.  "Clamping".  Slow but continued progress.  Also ordered some contact cement for another project and boy howdy is it the cutest lil tin. 
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Feb 18, 2020 14:19
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What is the final destination of all these boards you're stretching?
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Feb 18, 2020 14:32
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:What is the final destination of all these boards you're stretching? They're getting glued alongside the wider boards to the left, to bring them out to the required widths as stair stringers.
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Feb 18, 2020 14:38
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Jaded Burnout posted:They're getting glued alongside the wider boards to the left, to bring them out to the required widths as stair stringers. Wait, you're adding those to the bottom to make your stringers wider?
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Feb 18, 2020 16:04
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:Wait, you're adding those to the bottom to make your stringers wider? Yeah. The book I'm following does the same thing, since the appropriate widths of board aren't readily available here.
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Feb 18, 2020 16:07
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Jaded Burnout posted:Yeah. The book I'm following does the same thing, since the appropriate widths of board aren't readily available here. I just wanted to make sure I was reading it right, mornings are hard pre coffee. I've seen it done once on miscut stringers in the past just didn't know how common it was
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Feb 18, 2020 16:12
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:I just wanted to make sure I was reading it right, mornings are hard pre coffee. I've seen it done once on miscut stringers in the past just didn't know how common it was Me neither! This being my first time. But the line in the book is something along the lines of "unless you're using the less commonly available 250mm stock some glue-up will be required to bring 215mm boards up to the required 245mm". And indeed 215mm* is what my local timber merchant stocks. * All numbers here are off the cuff and might not be exactly what I'm working with.
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Feb 18, 2020 16:14
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Jaded Burnout posted:Me neither! This being my first time. But the line in the book is something along the lines of "unless you're using the less commonly available 250mm stock some glue-up will be required to bring 215mm boards up to the required 245mm". And indeed 215mm* is what my local timber merchant stocks.
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Feb 18, 2020 16:33
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:That is really dumb but entirely unsurprising that the code or w/e requires a size that is not commonly available. I'll post some of the pages a bit later, but I think it's more of a practical concern, in that a comfortable stair run requires a step triangle of a certain height, and once you add a bit of space for the nosing (on closed strings) or to account for the removed strength (in cut strings) you wind up 30mm over the common width. If it helps, the current stairs in my house (lol) use 215mm* width boards as-is and they're alright, so I guess it's more of a best practice thing.
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Feb 18, 2020 16:36
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I just reversed my car into the garden wall and destroyed it (the wall, not the car)
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Feb 19, 2020 10:53
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Jaded Burnout posted:I just reversed my car into the garden wall and destroyed it (the wall, not the car) Why would you do that? Doesn't seem very wise...
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Feb 19, 2020 11:03
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schmug posted:Why would you do that? Doesn't seem very wise... Berlin 1991 re-enactment
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Feb 19, 2020 11:19
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So, last night, finished up one of the strips for the stairs. Pretty straight. The bow here is actually in one of the pieces, not at the joints. It should flex straight when clamped, hopefully. This morning, I had a large delivery arrive, so I moved my car back onto the grass as far as I could to give room for the truck. Did I say "as far as I could"? I meant "further than I could".  That wall was flagged as unstable on the initial home inspection 5 years ago, so I'm not surprised it put up no resistance, it barely even scraped my bumper. The neighbour and I had a good laugh when it happened, then after the delivery I pulled down anything loose (which was most of it) and chucked everything onto my property.  The delivery in question.     Planer/thicknesser, baby. Need to figure out how to best get this onto a mobile base. The bottom has 4x 10mm threaded bolt holes for feet so I may see if I can find some wheels I can bolt on. There's a welded nut on the inside so it could be done from the outside, or I can if needed access them from the inside.        It's heavy, around 210kg, but it can be slid around as needed to get it onto a new platform. I was kinda expecting it to arrive in more pieces but no matter.
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Feb 19, 2020 13:07
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JB, when this is done, are you going to have a kitchen or a woodshop?
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Feb 19, 2020 14:02
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That's awesome! Well, except for the wall, but I guess it was on the list of things to get to eventually, anyway.
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Feb 19, 2020 14:02
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Dietrich posted:JB, when this is done, are you going to have a kitchen or a woodshop? Yes Rexxed posted:That's awesome! Well, except for the wall, but I guess it was on the list of things to get to eventually, anyway. Just another brick in the wall..
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Feb 19, 2020 14:04
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Jaded Burnout posted:So, last night, finished up one of the strips for the stairs. Pretty straight. The bow here is actually in one of the pieces, not at the joints. It should flex straight when clamped, hopefully. Saw this crooked board and thought, 'man if JB had a jointer that would clean right up' and then, Jaded Burnout posted:
This style of mobile base is very good IMO. It doesn't raise the machine so high up off the ground like sticking casters under it would, and the wheels are outside the footprint of the machine base so it is more stable, and you can put the little feet down to make it really solid and locked in place. https://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-heavy-duty-mobile-base-540kg-105072 (no idea if that's the right size for your machine)
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Feb 19, 2020 14:45
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Your ironing board is mesmerizing. Yeah the problem is that the one that *is* compatible is on 5 week back order: https://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-trade-series-planer-thicknesser-mobile-base-101700
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Feb 19, 2020 15:01
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Dietrich posted:JB, when this is done, are you going to have a kitchen or a woodshop? Sorry sorry busy day did you say you wanted some deli meat or some boards? No matter same machine just throw me that whole ham over there and we'll get it going
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Feb 19, 2020 16:54
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:Sorry sorry busy day did you say you wanted some deli meat or some boards? No matter same machine just throw me that whole ham over there and we'll get it going Joint-cut teak or steak-cut joint?
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Feb 19, 2020 17:07
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Jaded Burnout posted:Yeah the problem is that the one that *is* compatible is on 5 week back order: how about amazon? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Shop-Fox-D2057A-Adjustable-Mobile/dp/B0000DD6B9/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=mobile+base&qid=1582131100&sr=8-10
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Feb 19, 2020 17:53
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Jaded Burnout posted:Yeah the problem is that the one that *is* compatible is on 5 week back order: That’s no fun. Looking at the numbers, it looks like there is a pretty big overlap in sizes they will handle-a few plywood shims might make up the difference if the machine is a little too small for the bigger one? Or cut down the bars a bit-they’re pretty simple
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Feb 19, 2020 18:26
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:That’s no fun. Looking at the numbers, it looks like there is a pretty big overlap in sizes they will handle-a few plywood shims might make up the difference if the machine is a little too small for the bigger one? Or cut down the bars a bit-they’re pretty simple Is there a really good reason not to just bolt castors on it? That's how my table saw is, after all.
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Feb 19, 2020 18:30
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Jaded Burnout posted:Is there a really good reason not to just bolt castors on it? That's how my table saw is, after all. I like a jointer to be relatively low because that’s what I’m used to and it’s a bit easier with heavy timbers, but if you’re taller that may not matter to you. The mobile bases have a mechanism that lifts the swivel casters off the ground when locked, so they are much steadier than locked swivel casters which tend to still wiggle around. Jointers are kind of top heavy and making the footprint smaller than the base might be a concern, but it looks like the motor is mounted down lower in the cabinet so that’s probably not really an issue.
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Feb 19, 2020 18:53
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:You probably can just bolt casters to it , but I’d consider the working height of the machine and stability. I think I'll start with the castors and see how it goes. The ones I buy lock rotation as well as rolling, so combined with the rough tile floor they grip quite well. I can always upgrade later.
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Feb 19, 2020 19:27
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Just don't roll your jointer into a wall after you put wheels on it 
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Feb 19, 2020 20:19
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Don't remember seeing a planned workshop room in the thread, but there will for drat sure be one now (as there should be in anything larger than 80m2!)
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Feb 19, 2020 21:00
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