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Jaded Burnout posted:I've got a 600x600 cabinet going in the utility room. Exact position TBD but that's what the wireframing is for. Originally I was going to put it under the stairs but I changed my mine due to not wanting a cupboard there, then was going to put it in the attic for ease of drops but actually the routes don't work well, so the utility room is it. All the cables are there now so I'm just waiting on that room being finished. quote:Boxing in on the electrical cabinet is in progress. I'll need to get the sparkies to add a double socket so I can put the modem in here. Why are you not patching the BT socket through to your cab so that you can put your modem/router in there where I assume there will also be a switch and a UPS, and then if you want a landline phone you can also just patch it back out of any location.
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Jan 6, 2018 14:17
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Jaded Burnout posted:Yeah that was one of the conclusions I came to. It's also quite.. compact up there. It does now mean I have a double-gang socket I'm not using. An attic socket is always useful! It only needs to be a small UPS to keep a router/switch/wireless up. Definitely worth it. While the power shouldn't drop much, when it does its usually incredibly inconvenient especially if you work from home a lot.
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Jan 6, 2018 14:33
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Why are you considering putting the comms cab anywhere other than where your cables come out of the wall/ceiling? if it goes anywhere else you will have to put some containment in to get the cables along the wall and it makes extra work and doesnt look as nice (especially in a house) Also, why not push the comms cab right up to the ceiling?. Cut the back out slightly if necessary to make it easier to get at the cable route. The dead space on top is wasted unless you are dust or a spider.
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Jan 7, 2018 14:49
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Jaded Burnout posted:I’ve told the architect what’s been going on with his #1 recommended builder. I’ll never find out if he stops recommending him or not, but I expect there’s kickbacks involved if he does. I think you said that you found him on checkatrade? If he is still on there then leave him a poo poo review and see if you can save some more people in the future. I hope that they are clever enough to do limited company director checks to avoid re-incorporations getting reregistered on there. I've had success finding people using checkatrade and trustatrader. I left a bad review for someone from checkatrade a couple of months ago and got a reply from a human confirming my complaint.
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May 27, 2018 22:41
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Jaded Burnout posted:Which brings me to a small rant. While the basic idea behind plastering is simple, getting the flawless finish that you clearly aspire to is definitely not simple and takes years of experience and practise. Pay someone good like your renderer to do it! I am much much less of a perfectionist than you and am working with a cheap lovely house with lots of artex and walls with blown plaster rather than an expensive blank canvas like yours (so its hard to make make mine worse) and have attempted to plaster a few walls. You will not like your results...
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Jun 17, 2018 12:23
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Jaded Burnout posted:Very possible which is why I’ve not tried it so far, but paying someone isn’t an option, I’m out of money. You will understand my post 3-5 days after you attempt that wall... when your plaster fully dries and you first get to really compare your finish to the finish on the other walls that the pros have done and you realise just how much skill there actually is in plastering!  Ill dig out some of the better YouTube tutorials that I watched for the last bit I did (100% covered by kitchen units and tiles!). Is your wall currently bare brick?
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Jun 17, 2018 23:19
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Jaded Burnout posted:I needed to drill holes for the new batten which is at slightly different positions. I'd bought an SDS drill for this purpose, I knew it was cheap but turns out the chuck is really crap. Oh well, it just about does the job. Haha, your 'Katsu' drill is a rip off of the Bosch one even down to the case! 
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Jun 24, 2018 09:45
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Jaded Burnout posted:I had a spare half hour today so I scooted up on the scaffold with a sponge and some white spirit, to see what could be learned about the name stone. use a cloth rather than a sponge, and if you don't like doing it mechanically you could always use a stripper like nitromors (but it isn't pleasant stuff to use). I think you're right and there is nothing on your stone. I stripped the paint off my ex-military truck (which came with the military standard of approx 10 layers of paint) and its pretty obvious when you find painted on markings under other coats of paint. Here's a progression from roughly layer -3 to -7 in one spot which had 3 different markings on different layers:    quote:The current state of the garden for posterity (the nettles dead-centre are 6ft high) If I was you I would have to go attack that garden now!. I'm not particularly keen on garden work nor especially tidy but I gain a special kind of satisfaction from cutting overgrown stuff down as it is one of those jobs that requires zero 'brain juice'
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Jun 30, 2018 10:32
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Jaded Burnout posted:Today the weather is a little cooler so this afternoon I popped out and sat in the thinking chair for a bit. I had two main things to deal with. Assume you are going with the cripple studs as suggested above? Buying more batten wood is going to be significantly cheaper than buying more lengths of the cladding!
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Jul 4, 2018 11:51
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cakesmith handyman posted:If I tripped over a pile of money, how much extra depth/height would I need to redo the ground floor (currently laminate on concrete slab) with liquid underfloor heating? I'm waiting for the day when someone creates an affordable 15mm diameter concrete tunnelling robot that can weave its way around an existing slab dragging a plastic pipe after it. Then houses like mine which sit on a massive concrete slab and still have quarry tiles throughout the downstairs will be sorted. my house is awesome in the summer as the floor stays lovely and cool all the time but I have to use a strategic collection of slippers and flip flops in the winter to walk downstairs.
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Jul 5, 2018 11:51
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I’m confused. Don’t you just push the tongue into the groove as far as it goes? And why are you pre-drilling for nails?
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Jul 17, 2018 21:23
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Jaded Burnout posted:That doesn't allow for vertical expansion of the board, and was recommended by one supplier, but since I can't verify that with this particular profile and supplier I'll likely not bother (as attempted today). Aah. OK. Gotcha. Why can’t you just space them really simply by taking your vertical edge trim pieces off and then putting 2mm spacers (eg tile spacers or matchsticks) in the ends of the tongue and groove slots before pushing the planks together as far as they will go (before hitting your spacer)
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Jul 17, 2018 23:09
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Your builder did do some shoddy looking plumbing. For all my pex runs (most of my house now!) I’ve spent the small amount of time that it takes to get them straight and clip them to the walls and joists rather than leaving them floating. Is that blue pipe off the stop tap not just 15mm that you could have cut and used a speed fit on? If you plan on doing more plumbing: - Buy a set of plastic pipe shears to use on pex rather than the old style rotating blade cutter that you have. Loads quicker and easier. - Go buy 10 packs of the JG T pieces, corners and straight connectors and wall clips from screwfix and keep them ready in a box - rather than buying them individually, as it’s about 75% cheaper and you have them ready when you need them at 8pm on a Sunday night. - Buy a 10 pack of stop valves and add them every time you do any work. You can never have too many stop taps. - Buy a roll of ptfe every time you visit the shop as they always disappear - Don’t use PTFE in every metal thread. If there an olive involved then the ptfe goes on the olive not the thread (or you don’t use it at all)
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Aug 27, 2018 00:32
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Jaded Burnout posted:I've no idea why I didn't get an angle grinder before, they're cheap and super useful for those grimy tasks that you don't want to blunt a multitool blade on. Just wait. You will now find that you need to buy a few different types of disc to get everything done and before you know it you own 3 angle grinders because they are cheap and it is easier to have them all ready for use than having to keep changing disks. Then you need a 9" one too.... I am assuming that you have also purchased or already own the relevant PPE and will use it with the grinder (Getting stuff in your eyes sucks and getting it taken out sucks even more)
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Sep 15, 2018 01:54
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Jaded Burnout posted:Fukken gimme a break To make you feel slightly better the weather forecast for here in the north is pretty much exactly the same except 7-8C colder. It looks like it might be frosty here after a day of rain!
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Oct 5, 2018 23:45
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Jaded Burnout posted:This is the one I'm looking at, which is a bit of a cheaper supplier, and I might be able to go with 5.7m reach instead of 6.5m but I need to re-measure the ceiling. I never realised scaffold was so expensive! but there seem to be quite a lot of cheaper ones around like these. Is this not something it would be worth just buying second hand and trying to resell when you are done? (or do you have somewhere to store it?)
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Oct 8, 2018 12:18
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Jaded Burnout posted:While I was poking about in there I discovered that my plans for CCTV will need planning permission, because you're not allowed to put two cameras within 10m of each other without it. Makes it somewhat difficult to cover all four sides of a square. I'll do a writeup for my own sake and share it here. Do you really? got a link with information about this? (or are you in a conservation area or something?)
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Oct 11, 2018 21:06
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Jaded Burnout posted:See part F.1(f): Well that's a surprise and another (unsurprisingly) badly written set of UK regulations! From my knowledge of CCTV installs and a couple of quick searches on the planning permission portals here I would be willing to bet that the majority of CCTV installs don't have planning permission, including many of those performed by 'professional' CCTV companies. (I work on new buildings and often liaise with CCTV companies as they install their kit. I am now working through the planning portal results for a couple of recent sites...) This is going to be one of those rules where you are fine unless you piss someone off and they complain via official channels and then you end up like Mr Compo-face, 49 from Bexley who now has to pay £172 for permission as per your linked article. I bet he annoyed one of his neighbours or that one of his cameras was taking the piss and gratuitously covering someone else's property. My IP cameras are closer than 10m if you measure directly between them but I would argue like Darchangel that my cameras are not "Closed Circuit Television cameras" and are instead just digital cameras. The first case based on this argument will be an interesting read! If I were you I would just talk to your neighbours and make sure they know about the cameras and where they are pointing. Show them the feeds to demonstrate exactly what you are covering (its really hard to tell where some cameras are actually pointing if you look up at them on a wall) and tell them that you will happily give them access to the recordings if they ever need them and then forget about getting permission. Once I showed my neighbours the feeds from my cameras showing how they cover just my garden and the road and offered to give them access to the portal they were very happy about them as they know that given a date and time we can check out car number plates or lookup who was going past. We have even discussed adding more cameras covering their garden into my system.
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Oct 12, 2018 00:54
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Jaded Burnout posted:It's PVC. It is apparently standard practice to use brown piping below ground, regardless of the colour above ground. Whether that's intended to hide it more in the soil or part of the blue/yellow colour coding (brown = poo poo = wastepipe?) I'm not sure. I was always told that the brown PVC stuff is not UV stable so should only be used underground. not sure how that affects the colour choice other than making it obviously different in appearance to UV stable stuff
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Oct 19, 2018 13:30
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Jaded Burnout posted:Quick one today since I had to take a quick evening shift at work. You've made yourself extra work by using poo poo filler. Next time just chuck it out and go buy some fresh stuff from screwfix. You should have been able to fill that with hardly any finishing required.
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Jan 23, 2019 00:28
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As previously mentioned, the walls in my 50's house are hosed and I have done a LOT of fillering in my time here! Are you using the ready mixed plaster filler stuff here? If you want to make it much easier and leave a perfect finish then use that to fill the bulk of the hole, then use the nice easy DIY fine surface filler to go over the top of it. eg - https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-fine-surface-filler-white-600g/71551 If you have a big hole fill it with the plaster/skim filler first and leave that with any surface you like as long as its a couple of mm below the final surface height. Let it dry and then hit it with fine surface filler. Use your big flat ended scraper for the fine filler. Don't worry about getting it perfect and end up over working it - you can always sand it down or add a small second helping to fill and scratches. Go buy some rolls of the cheap aluminium oxide sandpaper - https://www.screwfix.com/p/aluminium-oxide-sanding-roll-unpunched-115mm-x-5m-120-grit/38512 I think I have 80, 120 and 240. Hit the fine surface filler with that wrapped round a block. Do a second helping if required. If you are having trouble with your filler pulling away from the edges of your hole then hit the hole it with a little bit of watered down PVA first Ebola Dog posted:Personally I just use sandpaper to smooth off bits I've filled in that end up a bit rough. Doesn't every non-professional doing any work trying to get a fall flat use sandpaper?
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Jan 25, 2019 14:08
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Jaded Burnout posted:I actually like the look of the rounded ends so I'm not sure which approach I'm going to take, but either way it shouldn't be much hassle. I still don't have a reliable way to cut metal neatly, though, so maybe it's time to pick up a metal-cutting blade for the mitre or circular saws. Otherwise it'll be cutting & grinding discs in the angle grinder. Have a watch of project binky on youtube and see what marvels of metalwork they create using a hang held angle grinder. Draw your cut lines first with a marker (on both sides of the material) and then take it slow and easy so you get tidy straight cuts and your grinder will be fine!
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Feb 15, 2019 21:41
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Breath Ray posted:thanks! i suppose i mean the diffference between those and £50 doors in terms of sound and durability Those £21 doors are just a hollow core. If you push your budget up to £38 you can get an 'engineered construction' one, which is effectively a solid piece of material (made out of lots of smaller pieces) which surely should be a lot better. We also seem to have hijacked jaded burnout's thread here. Maybe you should get your thread title changed?
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Feb 16, 2019 12:56
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Jaded Burnout posted:
You know that cement has a best before date on it and if you read the manufacturers website they all seem to say that it looses strength if you store it a long time past that. How much of this is true if it is well stored I don’t know! If it is only for filling holes I doubt it matters but bear this in mind if doing anything structural. I think the hardest bit of mortar is first getting the mix right and then not accidentally adding that extra drop of water that turns it from perfect and into too sloppy!. Have fun!
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Feb 23, 2019 21:44
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are you leaving that wall as brick? Looking at that messy patchwork over the fireplace hole would upset me!
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May 19, 2019 10:58
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Arn't you supposed to do a mist coat (watered down) over bare plaster so that it adheres better? (or are you using fancier paint than the leyland trade contract poo poo I use from screwfix).
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Aug 12, 2019 19:07
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The house is starting to look great! Sounds like you are too!  Jaded Burnout posted:These clamps are £1.50 for 12, which.. well.. I bought another 5 packs. Don't store them in the sunlight otherwise all the orange bits go brittle and then break off when you use the clamp. When they break it results in the broken orange bit getting fired one way and then the rest of the clamp sliding off the material and firing itself the other way. I was storing all mine clamped onto a ceiling joist in front of the window in my garage...
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Nov 8, 2019 14:34
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Jaded Burnout posted:"Allowed" is a complex word. That piece of wood houses equipment owned by three parties including myself. It looks "aged" because that's the age everything in the house was when I bought it. I'm not planning on doing much, likely just cleaning things up and fixing it back to the wall. My house has what looks like the exact same wooden board (and what looks like the same remains of a dual band supply setup like yours) and I had the same issue with it not being attached to the wall properly (a leaking bath above it that caused the plaster to fall off and then an electric company meter change that involved a hammer and chisel to remove the screws holding the original meter to the board did it in). There was enough play in the cables on mine to allow me to carefully shuffle it around enough to re-drill the brickwork. I think I ended up doing a couple of extra holes to allow me to hold it while I worked.
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Nov 24, 2019 17:55
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Powerful Two-Hander posted:here's one weird trick though: get your supplier to book a smart meter installation as these require the main supply to be switched off and the meter replaced, and they should either fix it all up for you or at least do a "nah mate" and tell you who can. Haha - or they can say “nah mate” and cut your supply off because it’s “not safe” and they are twats and spending 5 minutes fixing stuff is “not their job” I had gas and electric smart meter installs booked. He inspected my gas fire and decided that it was unsafe because the duct tape sealing the fire to the hole it lives in wasn’t secure. Was then told that my option based on this were that I can have my gas supply disconnected by him immediately or I could refuse the smart meter install which would trigger a charge from my supplier as a missed appointment. I refused the install as I liked having a gas supply for hot water and cooking.
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Nov 26, 2019 01:31
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Wiggly Wayne DDS posted:so do you ever get it tested or do you normally disregard a gas engineer's professional advice? if its unsafe they have to decommission the appliance or if there's no active gas supply to prove its safe (e.g. no money in the meter) they have to isolate the supply to the house It wasn't unsafe due to a gas leak, but a flue sealing issue. I was very happy to be warned about this and I wouldn't mind if the response to the unsafe appliance was to decommission that appliance, but isolating the entire supply to the house when it also has gas powered hot water/heating and a gas cooker and hob is a bit excessive. About 20 minutes after he left an emergency gas engineer appeared as apparently it got automatically logged with them as an emergency. This emergency engineer was happy to affix a big red 'DANGER do not use sticker' to the fire and tell me not to use it until i got it serviced.
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Nov 26, 2019 17:27
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Looks like some proper progress happening!  Have you been living without the heating until now? (or has it just been on/off without a thermostat?) Please get the label printer on the job here and replace all those scribbles! Jaded Burnout posted:While failing to find my tone generator I did manage to find all the tools for my boiler filter, you know, the one I spent £20 on buying a new one? So now I have two. I lost my tone generator and label printer recently. One of my clients has since found my label printer in their server room so I am now hoping that my tone generator is somewhere else in the same building!
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Dec 18, 2019 19:16
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Jaded Burnout posted:Mm. I suppose the tradeoff is I wouldn't be able to use the wall space for shelving or a towel rack or whatever, because the door would hit it. I'll put some more thought in when I have a scale drawing. I'd make the door open into the wall rather than the room too. Opening it into the room wastes more of what little floor space you have. All the doors in my old house (except the ones like my small bathroom that I have re-hung!) open into the rooms and I hate it. This isn't your main bathroom is it?, so you don't need much towel space in there. Even when it closes into the wall is there not still enough space on the back of or behind the door to put some low profile rails or hooks for hanging 3 or 4 towels?. My door had a rail on it and the door would hit the stop on the skirting board before the rail hit the wall. quote:A slider on the shower door might be an option now that I've turned the toilet 90º; previously it would've been in the way. I'll put it into consideration! Bi-fold shower doors are an option too.
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Jan 19, 2020 15:29
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Hollow Talk posted:I think it depends on the country, and for the Nordic countries, it might be a weather thing. All of the doors of places I have lived in the UK opened inward. Ditto for Germany. However, in Denmark, things opened outward (as did many of the windows). I always chalked it up to Danish weather, because that way, strong winds would press your windows/doors shut, rather than pressing them open/inward. My house has a poo poo porch on the front with an outward opening door. (Then conventional U.K. inward opening door into the house from the porch) I can confirm that when there are strong winds they get round the edge of it and pull it open and then attempt to repeatedly smash it back against the wall rather than pressing it shut! (It’s fine if I lock it but I leave it unlocked most of the time to allow for deliveries to be left in the porch)
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Jan 29, 2020 00:20
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n0tqu1tesane posted:I mean, one good trip crawling through an attic like this can put some undue stress on wires in walls. Clamps make a lot of sense in an environment like this. Remember that over here we wire both lights and sockets up in rings so you will likely never see that many wires running in one place (except for the main run back to the consumer unit). We also mainly use single strand solid core copper cabling rather than flex and most of the junctions end up being inside wall sockets or above light fittings. Once you have the 3 copper core wires separated and screwed into their relevant terminals/receptacles then even if all 3 somehow came out it still takes a lot of tugging to bend the copper strands in enough to pass them back out the hole in the fixture.
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Feb 7, 2020 22:29
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Jaded Burnout posted:Annoying puts the gauge out. Drill out/file of the heads of the rivets, elongate the holes in the measure and reattach with self tappers into the now empty rivet hole!
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Feb 23, 2020 18:20
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I had similar issues to you. I bought an affordable router to cut my kitchen worktop and it was a 1/4 one and it turned out that getting the bits I needed to work with my worktop and the cutting jig was a proper PITA (I was also using a guide bushing). I wish I'd bought a 1/2 one instead. They start at about £100. The extra money would have been worth the hassle I have every time I want to get a special router bit. In my case I over-extended the 1/4 router bit to get more depth and was also able to flip my worktop over and cut it from both sides. I can report that overextending the bit went OK but I didn't enjoy doing it.
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Apr 3, 2020 23:19
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:You can never have too many routers, I promise. Keeping a small one setup with a small round over bit to break edges will save you many splinters. So is this like how people working with metal have multiple angle grinders? (I currently have 3 each with different types of disc on). I will add that to the list of mental justifications when I eventually buy the 1/2 router that is on my shopping list!
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Apr 4, 2020 12:01
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Jaded Burnout posted:In order to do that I need better access to my jointer. Part of the reason I've lacked motivation to do anything is that my workspace is full. I think you need to sort yourself a bigger outdoor storage shed and then build yourself a proper garage/workshop in the garden... (or put your kitchen somewhere else and keep that room as your workshop )one positive of a big shed/garage is that it also means less gardening to do...
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Apr 28, 2020 10:36
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Jaded Burnout posted:I'll let you know how the Trend one I just bought is. Have you used this yet? I'm trying to make some furniture out of 15mm birch ply and my Clarke 1/4 is really struggling and the sparks coming out of the motor do not fill me with confidence!. I need to buy a 1/2 router before I attempt any more door cutouts! Birch ply is much harder than I thought it would be. Some sections of some of the layers I had to drop to doing 1mm depth at a time and one part took a chunk out of my router bit and caused a sawdust fire
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May 8, 2020 20:42
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You should stop calling that room your kitchen and just call it the "workshop" now. It looks like you now have more workshop appliances and accessories than you do kitchen ones!  Jaded Burnout posted:Of course it's very hard to know exactly where things are manufactured, but SIP is a UK company with their main factory in Leicestershire. The whole table shipped in a few days. I suspect a very large amount of the machine does come from Shenzhen and is likely assembled there but that SIP deal with/spec all the packaging locally so that you get a proper manual written in real English and that they also keep a warehouse full of parts and stock in the UK and have UK based engineers so that they can warranty and support it. I have a SIP compressor; which when I bought it looked exactly the same as the variously branded Chinese ones that I could also buy on ebay but was about £30 more and this gets you a warranty honoured by an actual UK company.
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Jun 19, 2020 09:03
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