Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Jaded Burnout posted:

I am at the point in my woodworking journey where I realise I've been using power tools as a crutch to avoid having to achieve comfort and capability with hand tools.
Free yourself from the straight line tablesaw prison! Good, sharp handtools let you do things surprisingly fast and they don't care about straight or square. Scribe a line and cut to fit-throw your huge collection of tape measures in the dumpster!

I think you're right too about work-I enjoy my work, but I also don't want to come home and do it in the evenings or for free. It kind of ruins you really when you start getting paid for something you used to just do for fun; it's not nearly as fun to do it without getting paid. When I was buying a house, I kind of imagined I might want a fixer upper until I thought about how not fun it would be to come from being covered in sawdust all day to a house covered in sawdust where I was expected to make yet more sawdust.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


https://www.amazon.com/Dsmile-1-X-S...la-739574574428
That should do the job.
I have one of these I like a lot too, if you want to spend more than $2:
https://www.tftools.co.uk/products/japanese-stabbing-awl
I honestly mostly use a pencil. I don't like the scribes with a blade, I much prefer an awl. You can also just use the corner of a chisel. Pocket knife/razor blade works too, but not as well because they are beveled on both sides.

If you mean a marking/mortising gauge, they are usually available pretty cheaply on eBay from Marples or Rabone or any of the good British makers, and you live in a country awash with old tools so I wouldn't think it would be hard to find one used. I think I have a newish rosewood from Crown and a new-old-stock Rabone one and they are both fine. You can make your own pretty easily too if you want to shave more yaks.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


I thought drywall was awful and a pain and a mess, but it seems like plaster is 100x worse. Aesthetics aside (and it definitely does have a different look that drywall doesn't quiiiite get) why is it still used so much over there?

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Some higher end construction here does get a skim coat of mud over the entire wall and then sanded smooth which I guess is just like what JB is describing. Often times a high build/high solids primer that's sort of just waaay thinned drywall mud is used too so the mudded parts and the paper parts take paint the same. Sounds like what y'all do is basically the same as drywall but with one extra step to make it nicer.

My 1930's house has old plastered lath but then with a textured coat over it to hide a presumably mediocre plastering job, negating that shiny smoothness that nice plaster has and making my walls unpleasant to brush against. All the disadvantages of plaster with none of the nice parts!

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


I’m convinced that the eccentricities of plastering are the main reason British labor productivity has fallen so far behind.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Looks like you found a nice plane. Your rats would love to play in that pile of shavings and make a little house in it.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


I feel like your garden has now gone back to nature to the point that it makes for a nice view out the back windows. Table is lookin good.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Excited to see how these sliding walls work. Are you just doing one slide on one side at the top or one on each side at the top or one top and one bottom or what?

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Yeah table saw is a big level up in ability to rapidly amputate your finger! Eyes on the cut all the time. Glad it wasn’t anything worse.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Stay safe rats!

It seems like the sliding things are going to work well, which is an exciting development. How do you think you'll hang stuff on them?

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Hooray for babby’s first taper jig! I’d make try and yourself flash that exposed wood sooner rather than later. That’s the kind of thing I always tell myself I’ll do next week and then 3 years later it is half rotten.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


I was cleaning out around a bunch of trees today and wielding a Very Sharp machete (Ontario knife 4lyfe-but made in America, of course) or axe is one of life’s great simple pleasures.

Excited to see chopped up garden!

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Substantial progress! Make some bird/rat houses out of all your reclaimed upcycled repurposed salvaged wood

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Jaded Burnout posted:

Spoiler for the next post: I'm currently huddled a little closer to the oven than usual, so as to warm up after a mostly cold shower.
Hope it's just because your dinner smells delicious and you got too hot working in the yard and not because your water heater died :ohdear:

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


If it says ‘Bosch’ anywhere on it, you’re gonna need a special tool.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


No amount of machinery save a giant mulcher head on a bobcat is going to save all that much labor with what needs doing. I’d bet you’d get 20-30 man hours of labor for that price, which doesn’t seem outrageous. They won’t gave any fancy equipment-they’ll have some loppers and maybe a chainsaw on a stick. I’d bet 4-5 guys show up and get it done in half a day. As long as you do some minor maintenance (mowing/weedeating) you never have to do it again.

Landscaping is just very labor intensive but mostly low skill, and even if a big weed eater would cut everything down faster (maybe) there’s still a whole lot of hauling it across the yard. You're probably better off doing something that you enjoy or that pays well, but that’s always a personal thing to figure out.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Maybe my scale is off, but that looks like a huge sheet of plywood!

Are the stringers going to be plywood/LVL or solid wood? Stairs (and especially handrails) are such a nightmare/fun.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Jaded Burnout posted:

Oh.




Close Enough™️



How about the other way?



Also Close Enough™️.
I did exactly the same thing when I build the bench my mitre saw is in.

Never too many clamps. Pipe clamps are, imo, the best value in terms of versatility per dollar because you can put them on a 3' pipe or a 12' pipe and they still clamp clamp clamp.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Jaded Burnout posted:

Painting continues apace. It wouldn't be fair to say that I'm doing none of the work, because I'm doing a lot of setting up and electrical work, but I don't have to goddamn paint ceilings.


This looks very pleasant.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Some sweet day I'm gonna get all my hardware organized in a way other than 'well there's probably what I need in that bucket, but the hardware store is 3 min away so I can probably get there and back faster than I can find what I need in this hellbucket'

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


The garden looks fantastic! Huge change!

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


I'm extremely impressed by and jealous of your tool/hardware organizational system and skills. I guess having your workshop in your kitchen sort of necessitates it, but somehow my shop I work in all day every day is just chaos.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


To solve your screwing issue, screw the wheels to a piece of scrap solid wood about as long as the piece of OSB- it will stiffen things up amazingly in the sheet(good)s and may save you a trip.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Jaded Burnout posted:

That's kinda what I meant when I said "I don't fancy adding blocks to use longer screws", but if it provides an actual mechanical advantage that may be worth doing.
It will actually help quite a bit if the block spans the width, but mostly I was in for the :quagmire: puns. You could even put it on top of the OSB and screw through the OSB into the wood every ~8" or so to tie them together if you don't want the extra height. Solid wood is reasonably stiff, but plywood/OSB have very little stiffness flat and just flop around, but are super stiff on edge.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Harry Potter on Ice posted:

I've never seen anything but a screen door open out on a front door you're kind of blowing my mind. Racking my brain to think of one and I can't. Seems really awkward when you open it for someone you don't want to let in? Is that just an American thing because if so :lol:
It is odd-residential doors almost always open in but commercial doors are all out-swing for fire egress. Out-swing door’s are also much harder to kick in, which is relatively easy with an in-swing door.

Curious what Jaded Burnout’s reasons for wanting an out swing front door were-I can see reasons for both, but wondering what I haven’t thought of.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Skimming the whole wall with mud isn’t completely unknown in the US and I’ve seen architects spec it on fancy houses. It does make a noticeably nicer finish on the walls, and I think is usually recommended if you want to do gloss paint on a wall as gloss will show up every little flaw. Skim coating and sanding will make a much nicer surface for paint. There’s actually a numbered grade system for drywall finishes that I can’t be bothered to look up and the highest grade is multiple skin sanded skin coats.

Probably also helps that UK houses are generally much smaller than American, so the extra labor isn’t as huge in a 1200sq ftm UK house vs a 3500sq ft American one

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Sad to hear about your rats :(
I need to get me some clamping beennz-could be the hot new must-have woodworking accessory for 2020. I'd never thought of 1-2-3 blocks for checking parallelism/as squares in woodworking but that is ingenious and I should get some.

This is timely because it is 'rebuild a crosscut sled' day for me today. Mine have a 30" crosscut capacity and I have never needed more, but 24" would probably be plenty. This https://www.finewoodworking.com/2011/07/01/build-a-super-precise-tablesaw-crosscut-sled and this https://www.popularwoodworking.com/projects/aw-extra-42414-improved-crosscut-sled/ have good ideas. The first link has the smart idea of putting a second crossbrace on that you don't worry about getting square. Cut slot for blade, then attach another fence that actually is square, using that cut as a reference line. It's what I did the last time and it sure makes things easier.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Jaded Burnout posted:

Do post about it somewhere when you do.

I have read that first one, yeah, but depth was already at a premium so I didn't want a double thick fence and I was thinking I'd have to shim it or whatever but of course not quite true.

24" depth should be fine, yeah, it's the offset that's bothering me, i.e. what do you do when you want to cut and inch off the end of a 4x2ft sheet?
A roller stand with ball bearings helps to support the end of longer work. It probably also helps that my saw has wings to the left of the blade so there is more support there.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Harry Potter on Ice posted:

drat I need something like that really badly for my flammable stuff

:same:

Preview of my crosscut sled rebuild since I didn’t have any cans of beans:



I actually looked up the regulations because I wasn’t sure and under 25gal you don’t have to have a cabinet so I’m theoretically okay? They’re surprisingly expensive or I’d have gotten one long ago.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Jaded Burnout posted:

Second, I found the blown out piece from underneath and trimmed it to size, and replaced it. Glued it all up.
This is like #1 best reason to keep a reasonably clean shop/work area ime.

Jaded Burnout posted:



In hindsight I should've waited before gluing until I had the other mortice ready to go so I could clamp the splints on again for alignment's sake, but it'll probably be fine.
I hope you put something on your floor so you don't get glue on your nice tile. :ohdear:

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


What is the final destination of all these boards you're stretching?

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Jaded Burnout posted:

Me neither! This being my first time. But the line in the book is something along the lines of "unless you're using the less commonly available 250mm stock some glue-up will be required to bring 215mm boards up to the required 245mm". And indeed 215mm* is what my local timber merchant stocks.

* All numbers here are off the cuff and might not be exactly what I'm working with.
That is really dumb but entirely unsurprising that the code or w/e requires a size that is not commonly available.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Jaded Burnout posted:

So, last night, finished up one of the strips for the stairs. Pretty straight. The bow here is actually in one of the pieces, not at the joints. It should flex straight when clamped, hopefully.



Your ironing board is mesmerizing.

Saw this crooked board and thought, 'man if JB had a jointer that would clean right up'

and then,

Jaded Burnout posted:



Planer/thicknesser, baby.
That looks pretty beefy!

This style of mobile base is very good IMO. It doesn't raise the machine so high up off the ground like sticking casters under it would, and the wheels are outside the footprint of the machine base so it is more stable, and you can put the little feet down to make it really solid and locked in place.
https://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-heavy-duty-mobile-base-540kg-105072
(no idea if that's the right size for your machine)

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Jaded Burnout posted:

Yeah the problem is that the one that *is* compatible is on 5 week back order:
https://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-trade-series-planer-thicknesser-mobile-base-101700

That’s no fun. Looking at the numbers, it looks like there is a pretty big overlap in sizes they will handle-a few plywood shims might make up the difference if the machine is a little too small for the bigger one? Or cut down the bars a bit-they’re pretty simple

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Jaded Burnout posted:

Is there a really good reason not to just bolt castors on it? That's how my table saw is, after all.
You probably can just bolt casters to it , but I’d consider the working height of the machine and stability.

I like a jointer to be relatively low because that’s what I’m used to and it’s a bit easier with heavy timbers, but if you’re taller that may not matter to you. The mobile bases have a mechanism that lifts the swivel casters off the ground when locked, so they are much steadier than locked swivel casters which tend to still wiggle around. Jointers are kind of top heavy and making the footprint smaller than the base might be a concern, but it looks like the motor is mounted down lower in the cabinet so that’s probably not really an issue.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Jaded Burnout posted:


All in all it's taken me 2 full days from delivery to spinning blade.
Welcome to the wonderful world of jointers!

I am very confused about the cutterhead switching directions. That seems like it means it would be cutting on the back of the blade when planing? It would make sense that you feed from left to right joining and right to left planing, because one is cutting on the top of the head and one on the bottom. Or does that belt change the direction of the feed rollers for the planer or something?

Either way, if the knives spin fast it will probably cut wood.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Jaded Burnout posted:

I actually forgot to include the photo of said lever, and upon consideration it probably changes the feed direction rather than the spin direction.



That said, it's theoretically feasible that it could run the cutter head the other way, that's the difference between a conventional and climb cut, right? Though the blades would have to be sharpened appropriately and I'm assuming they're not, especially since they're thin inserts rather than a solid block of HSS.

I'm emailing tech support about the clunky lever and why I have a part left over that's not in the manual.
The lever engaging feed rollers makes a lot more sense. A climb cut is feeding in the same direction as the rotation of the cutterhead, whereas a normal cut is feeding against the direction of rotation. If you reversed the feed rollers and fed the wood in the outfeed side you would be climb cutting (but don't do that please) I think if you spun the cutterhead in reverse, you wouldn't be climb cutting, but would be hitting the wood with the dull side of the knife and probably quickly and efficiently ruining your knives and making a giant racket and not cutting wood.

I would get the fence dead on at 90 degrees and then forget about the angle gauge. If you need to set it for some angle, use a bevel gauge and set the fence to that. It's really nice if you have a numbered gauge you can trust, but IME you usually can't

I love the mechanical DRO.

Can't wait to see it making shavings!

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Jaded Burnout posted:

Yeah that's been my go-to up to now, but I often find it hard to stay accurate that way, and I'm having to press fairly hard so having it butt up against the jig is convenient. Perhaps I just need to buy better ones.

I wouldn't bother, all the ones I've used are pretty meh. As you said, set screw is a bad way to try and attach to helix. The only one worth a drat is the one that came with my kreg jig and it is only really good on the solid part of the shank.

I think with 4 sawhorses you'll be fine doing the glueup on top of them. If you had some big long floppy ends hanging off maybe worry, but now you have a machine to flatten and straighten anything! Are sash clamps like pipe/bar clamps that tighten with a screw instead of a squeeze?

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Jaded Burnout posted:


Next I guess it's time to do it on the real thing.
:woop:

Making a full size mockup takes time but it is very worth it and always saves time and mistakes in the end. It's so much easier and safer to take a measurement direct from the mockup and not have to do math or read a scale or anything.

I have also had good paint come off my drywall surprisingly easily in a few places, and :iiam:

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


The Bosch router guide bushing system is kind of a clunky, over-complicated, Teutonic pain in the rear end, but it does (eventually) work.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply