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Canuck-Errant posted:Man, now I kind of want to build some sort of "keyboard device" LED bar where all it does is indicate if Caps Lock / Num Lock / Scroll Lock? are on Some of the non-intrusive soarer's adapters (housed in their own enclosure) that were made for terminal keyboards without the lights just included them in the enclosure case. Seems like a fun project. I think they already exist but considering all of the folks who can't live without sound controls on their keyboard I thought about rolling my own rotary encoder with a push down button volume control/mute device so I could just tell people "just make this project" when they want to buy an inferior keyboard purely for the volume control.
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# ? May 16, 2020 00:52 |
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# ? Apr 25, 2024 23:24 |
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DirtyRobot posted:Thanks everyone. Get the WSAD. It's perfect and you won't need to gently caress with it.* *as I type this message on my Code with Cherry Clears. I would stretch your budget a bit further and get something that has hot-swappable switches like the GMMK or if you want a "high-profile" (I mean the bezel, not the slant) that's probably going to run you quite a bit more and I don't even know what to suggest that won't triple your budget.
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# ? May 16, 2020 01:02 |
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:I got a Durgod Nebula K320 from Massdrop for like $80 shipped and loving love it. I got the K310 in grey. Cherry Browns. I'll post a quick review when it gets in.
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# ? May 16, 2020 03:06 |
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I got my wife a 310 with silent reds for work from home, the switch is p silent but the bird itself makes a stronger bottoming out noise than my k70 It’s a nice smaller solid board all around so far
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# ? May 16, 2020 04:28 |
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64bit_Dophins posted:I got the K310 in grey. Cherry Browns. I have a K310 Nebula with Cherry Blacks that I'm swapping to Hako Clears right now. It's a great keyboard.
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# ? May 16, 2020 06:06 |
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Get the WSAD. It's perfect and you won't need to gently caress with it.* I have a CODE in Cherry MX Green and a GMMK in Kailh BOX Navy. This man speaks the truth, they are both good boards. Edit: I feel like the WASD/CODE has better build quality; the thing is heavy as a brick. Custom hotswapping to BOX Navies was too good to pass up, though.
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# ? May 16, 2020 09:18 |
I feel like with most things making it heavier to seem like it has more build quality is lame but with keyboards it actually helps the function of the thing, funny how that works
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# ? May 16, 2020 18:05 |
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Pretty much all keyboards that are heavy have weights in/on them. Even expensive boards. You cannot judge the 'quality' based on weight. Here's the weights in a GMMK Compact:
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# ? May 16, 2020 19:45 |
AbsoluteLlama posted:Pretty much all keyboards that are heavy have weights in/on them. Even expensive boards. No I mean that adding random weights is in fact functional bc a keyboard is one of the few things made better by being heavy
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# ? May 16, 2020 20:17 |
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shovelbum posted:No I mean that adding random weights is in fact functional bc a keyboard is one of the few things made better by being heavy Yeah it's useful, but just not an indicator of quality once you get beyond cheap $15 boards where even weights are too expensive. That said, it's somewhat of a personal taste. Personally I've never cared if a keyboard was heavy or not and the switches have a larger impact. Nothing compares to the blissful thock of a Topre, and I'm an insane person that uses 35g linears on a split with a total weight of both halves under 300g. I'd go under 35g if the springs had enough force to actually reset the switch properly. Light splits are waaaayyy easier to travel with too. I used to carry around a tenkeyless and it was still a pain.
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# ? May 16, 2020 20:31 |
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Zarin posted:I have a CODE in Cherry MX Green and a GMMK in Kailh BOX Navy. I am definitely not in love with my GMMK, but it's a solid started board and is great for testing switches. I personally don't like the "low profile" sides or whatever you call it. I like keyboards that have a bezel that hides the switches. The board is also light and despite having an aluminum plate, seems to flex a fair bit and the feet aren't the most solid. One of the advantages of owning a board you don't give a gently caress about is that you can treat is like poo poo, cover it in stickers, and just generally enjoy it without having to worry about babying it. I wrapped mine in burl wood vinyl because it was silly, and why not? The lights even shine through the vinyl. I've got it apart right now because I wanted to clean it and pull the Hakko Clears off of it to make way for the Hakko Royal Trues I have coming. I'm gonna pad it with some butyl rubber and stick some lead fishing weights in the corners to give it some heft while I'm at it.
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# ? May 17, 2020 04:38 |
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Epomaker just sent me an email that they're dropping a new keeb on kickstarter at the end of the month. The "G68KS" which is apparently a bluetooth rgb hotswap in a full aluminum frame. Don't waste your money on this. It's just another variant of the lovely GK61/GK64 keyboard with the same garbage rear end software that every Chinese OEM just rebrands under whatever company name they have at the time.
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# ? May 17, 2020 05:02 |
I been using some Hako Clears the last few days and man oh man do i love the clack of these keys. I found mx browns too light and these hit that sweet spot of weight and distance. I been doing work and gaming and no fatigue at all. This after using Gateron Yellows which actually fatigued my hands after 30 mins of use. I am no longer part of the linear gang. I really wish I stopped listening to r/mk about these switches and just tried them for myself. It really completes my CTRL usage experience.
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# ? May 17, 2020 15:40 |
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:*Wood grain vinyl GMMK* This is truly Glorious PC Gaming Race™ Unironically though, it's so ugly it's beautiful. I love it!
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# ? May 17, 2020 19:42 |
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I wish gmmk would release a 75%. Heck, I wish all the tkls in the world became 75% keyboards. I've no idea why TKL became super popular instead of 75%. I mean, TKL is more aesthetic I guess but 75% has better functionality. I suppose one reason is different people want different keys in the right-most column, but that's a solvable problem. Khorne fucked around with this message at 22:21 on May 17, 2020 |
# ? May 17, 2020 22:18 |
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After nearly 11 years of faithful service I recently retired my Logitech G15. Nothing wrong with it at all, still worked just as well as it did the day I got it, but my circumstances have changed. A few months back we moved into a one bedroom flat and I got rid of my desk as we didn’t really have the space. Needless to say using a normal KB/M in the living room is awkward at best, so I went down the lapboard route. Picked up the Corsair K63 wireless keyboard and lapboard. Still using my wired mouse for now until I decide what wireless one to get. It’s my first ever mechanical keyboard and it’s absolutely wonderful to type on. The keyboard itself has no perceptible input lag and I can get a weeks use out of a single charge. The loss of the number pad is noticeable but acceptable as it makes the lapboard a much more practical size. The lapboard is well balanced and has a fabric gel filled padding on its underside for comfort. I can actually use my computer properly again.
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# ? May 18, 2020 16:05 |
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Interest Check on an 808-themed GMK set. https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSeRoyXWSYCPGCJr3YPfFe_xvdyoDUvwU1I4chM3-wsihgSFkQ/viewform GeekHack Thread https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=106428.0 Renders: https://imgur.com/a/qLzpEi3
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# ? May 18, 2020 19:14 |
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That's beautiful.
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# ? May 18, 2020 20:15 |
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What experiences do people here have with making stabilizers quieter? I have an older leopold tkl where the spacebar stab is squeaking really loud. I also have a keycool84 75% where the stab is the loudest part of it because I have orings + replaced the mx browns with gateron silent browns. Which is amazing by the way, silent switches are really quiet and the gsbs are wonderful. My concern with lube or whatever is I am not desoldering all 84+ keys, and I want something that will take minimal maintenance. I might be willing to desolder the leopold switches and replace them with something else as they're old mx reds and actuation force is ~3/4 normal on a lot of the keys. edit: both are plate mount Khorne fucked around with this message at 23:47 on May 18, 2020 |
# ? May 18, 2020 23:04 |
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Khorne posted:What experiences do people here have with making stabilizers quieter? What kind of stabs? Cherry I'm guessing? You should be able to get some grease into the moving bits with just the keycap pulled off. It may take awhile for it to work itself in. Not that high maintenance but you'd have to be careful not to make a terrible mess. Desoldering is probably the way to go though if you really want it to be the best. Topclack has a good stab guide: https://topclack.com/textclack/2018/4/29/the-stab-lab-a-stabilizer-modification-guide-by-quakemz. You really want to overdo the lube on the stabs. I use teflon grease on the plastic bits, then dunk the wires past the bend into a tube of dielectric grease multiple times. You may want to test these sorts of mods on another board first though as it will change the feel and it's a matter of taste. I love modded stabs, but my wife absolutely hates them and swears by squeaky costar stabs. YMMV. EDIT: Just saw plate mount. In that case they are either costar or cherry plates? You shouldn't need to desolder anything if costar, or just one switch if cherry. The first thing I usually do is just buy new ones and replace them. Plate mounts loosen up over time and start rattling. You can try using plumbers tape or something on the edges to tighten them up again as well. AbsoluteLlama fucked around with this message at 00:07 on May 19, 2020 |
# ? May 18, 2020 23:58 |
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I've lubed stabs and on my last build a week ago I put a thin layer of synthetic grease. It gets rid of the rattle. You should be able to pull the stabs by just desoldering the switch being stabilized. Should be a horizontal slot in the plate to pull it out once the keyswitch is removed. e: assuming plate-mount stabs
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# ? May 19, 2020 00:04 |
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quote:EDIT: Just saw plate mount. In that case they are either costar or cherry plates? You shouldn't need to desolder anything if costar, or just one switch if cherry. The first thing I usually do is just buy new ones and replace them. Plate mounts loosen up over time and start rattling. You can try using plumbers tape or something on the edges to tighten them up again as well. mewse posted:I've lubed stabs and on my last build a week ago I put a thin layer of synthetic grease. It gets rid of the rattle. AbsoluteLlama posted:What kind of stabs? Cherry I'm guessing? You should be able to get some grease into the moving bits with just the keycap pulled off. It may take awhile for it to work itself in. Not that high maintenance but you'd have to be careful not to make a terrible mess. Khorne fucked around with this message at 03:27 on May 19, 2020 |
# ? May 19, 2020 03:17 |
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After three days of colemak-dh I now type like an old person in both QWERTY and colemak
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# ? May 19, 2020 03:30 |
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Got the Keychron K6 in my hands last week. Cherry brown until my Creams or Tangys come in (hotswap!). First impressions are that it seems to be a bit more quality than the K4 I also have. Stabs and modifier keys sound a lot better. Almost everyone I know who had a K4 or K2 had a squeaky space bar but this one sounds rock solid. The key caps are pretty thin but are high quality and the legends look good, much better than Tai Hao legends or what other companies use for backlit key caps. It will be worth replacing with a set that is thicker with a higher quality feel, which is disappointing because I really like the look of these. Here is is compared to the K4 with Tai Hao Deep Forest blue:
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# ? May 23, 2020 19:13 |
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hey again keyboard folks. I found a brand new, in box, sealed, never opened, MISB L@@K MX Revolution Keyboard/Mouse combo for sub-400 bucks and decided to go with it since my previous one lasted over twelve years of constant use and still works fine, but is clearly starting to go a bit. anyways, one thing I didn't account for is that it comes with batteries. fourteen year old batteries. yeah, the inside of the packaging is caked in that crystallized battery acid that old batteries get. and the bit at the bottom of the keyboard, the rubbery plastic bit that you're supposed to rest your wrists on or something, is so sticky from undoubtedly some kind of chemical degradation over the years that it leaves perfect fingerprint imprints when I touch it. five wipedowns of Goo Gone still hasn't gotten rid of it entirely. but other than that, happy to have my old new keyboard! Captain Invictus fucked around with this message at 18:43 on May 26, 2020 |
# ? May 26, 2020 18:39 |
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I want to test out some Cherry MX switches. Where can I buy individual switches and not the 5-10 packs in seeing online?
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# ? May 27, 2020 01:22 |
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Saddamnit posted:I want to test out some Cherry MX switches. Where can I buy individual switches and not the 5-10 packs in seeing online? https://smile.amazon.com/keyswitch-tester/s?k=keyswitch+tester&sa-no-redirect=1
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# ? May 27, 2020 02:00 |
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Saddamnit posted:I want to test out some Cherry MX switches. Where can I buy individual switches and not the 5-10 packs in seeing online? Let me save you some time and money. Just buy Clears.
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# ? May 27, 2020 02:37 |
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That's not any fun
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# ? May 27, 2020 03:51 |
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I got one of these Akko 3084 World Tour Tokyo's because everyone needs a nice Cherry Blossom themed board. It's quite gorgeous actually and especially the space bar. Has USB C and Bluetooth. Love the keycap texture. Cherry Browns as usual for me. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B085F29TJS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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# ? May 27, 2020 04:51 |
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Thanks guys. My biggest concern is making sure the keys are quiet, so I definitely want to test them out before committing the cash.
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# ? May 27, 2020 09:34 |
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Saddamnit posted:Thanks guys. My biggest concern is making sure the keys are quiet, so I definitely want to test them out before committing the cash. Please note that keyboard construction will also play a large role in how loud switches are. A more open design with a lighter backplate will be louder, in my experience. It's worth listening to sound tests for keyboards as well as a result.
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# ? May 27, 2020 11:04 |
So my girlfriend is interested in building a keyboard from the ground up based about Dark Magic Girl keycap set. Is there any good TLK kits that are hotswapable? She also want to dabble in different key switches as all she has been using is Browns on her Frozen Llama.
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# ? May 27, 2020 13:59 |
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Whiskey A Go Go! posted:So my girlfriend is interested in building a keyboard from the ground up based about Dark Magic Girl keycap set. Is there any good TLK kits that are hotswapable? She also want to dabble in different key switches as all she has been using is Browns on her Frozen Llama. GMMK TKL is the one that immediately springs to mind. It's nice but a bit flimsy feeling. Once she's hooked there's stuff like the massdrop CTRL high profile which is expensive but should be built like a tank
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# ? May 27, 2020 14:43 |
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Whiskey A Go Go! posted:So my girlfriend is interested in building a keyboard from the ground up based about Dark Magic Girl keycap set. Is there any good TLK kits that are hotswapable? She also want to dabble in different key switches as all she has been using is Browns on her Frozen Llama. TKL kits aren't too popular I'm afraid. I think only the KPRepublic XD87 is is shipping now: https://kprepublic.com/products/xd8...=10176717488172 Though I'm sure there's an interest check or group buy running somewhere. To make it hotswappable you can solder in Mill-Max sockets. But yeah, for a pre-built keyboard, you'll have the GMMK TKL and CTRL as mentioned above.
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# ? May 27, 2020 16:28 |
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mewse posted:GMMK TKL is the one that immediately springs to mind. It's nice but a bit flimsy feeling. Once she's hooked there's stuff like the massdrop CTRL high profile which is expensive but should be built like a tank I had a coworker I helped after they tried one of my boards, we settled on the GMMK TKL. It's not at all a bad board for the price. The only caveat I'd have with it, you need either plate mount switches or be prepared to cut the PCB mount legs off your switches.
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# ? May 27, 2020 17:00 |
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What's the best mechanical numpad? I bought a cheap non mechanical one and it's super light and crappy (obviously) and I want something with more weight. I just need to to function like a numpad. I see some Varmilo ones out there, are they any good? I'd like something with some weight to it if possible.
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# ? May 27, 2020 17:53 |
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Thom P. Tiers posted:What's the best mechanical numpad? I bought a cheap non mechanical one and it's super light and crappy (obviously) and I want something with more weight. I just need to to function like a numpad. I see some Varmilo ones out there, are they any good? I'd like something with some weight to it if possible. I don't have one but the cospad on aliexpress looks good
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# ? May 27, 2020 18:24 |
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Whiskey A Go Go! posted:So my girlfriend is interested in building a keyboard from the ground up based about Dark Magic Girl keycap set. Is there any good TLK kits that are hotswapable? She also want to dabble in different key switches as all she has been using is Browns on her Frozen Llama. How does she feel about the 68% layouts? e.g. Drop ALT, no F Row and 3 less keys from the Home cluster. If she's fine with that (and also fine with taking her wallet out back and shooting it) the barebones Mito Laser Alt is a lavender color and would be a nice compliment to the Dark Magic Girl set. Available for $230.... https://drop.com/buy/drop-mito-laser-alt-high-profile
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# ? May 27, 2020 18:50 |
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# ? Apr 25, 2024 23:24 |
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Thom P. Tiers posted:What's the best mechanical numpad? I bought a cheap non mechanical one and it's super light and crappy (obviously) and I want something with more weight. I just need to to function like a numpad. I see some Varmilo ones out there, are they any good? I'd like something with some weight to it if possible. I use a KC21 i got off massdrop
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# ? May 27, 2020 18:51 |