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CyberPingu posted:Have you tried the old uninstall/reinstall yeah, doesn't seem to help other weirdness: * the "Input Monitoring" entries didn't auto-populate, I had to add those manually. normally they're supposed to show up there and then you just have to check them * someone on this thread describing my issue suggested running a command in recovery mode which is how I discovered that this work laptop has a firmware password on it preventing me from accessing recovery mode, waiting to hear back from IT about that
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# ? Jul 22, 2020 16:31 |
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# ? Mar 28, 2024 22:44 |
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abraham linksys posted:The "devices" list is empty and none of my remaps are working. The log shows that the observer is seeing the devices correctly, but it's not populating the window I only have _grabber and _observer in the "Input Monitoring" section. Was fully expecting it to just be a security allowance issue but it looks like you've already been down that road.
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# ? Jul 22, 2020 16:40 |
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ah, thanks for checking it out I'm sure people in this thread have adapted to much stranger layout changes, so I think for now I'll just try adapting to having to use the fn key for tilde/backtick. as I think I mentioned in this thread before, I write JavaScript in my day job, which makes heavy use of backticks, so I use those keys more than you'd expect. One upshot is that since I'm stuck at home and not working on the go, I'm never using my internal laptop keyboard, so I don't have to both adapt to a new keyboard and keep using a more traditional layout. I've since gotten a bigger desk with more space instead of the weird crammed setup I had, so if I could do this all again, I would have just bought the Keychron K2 (or even the upcoming K8 which is just a normal-rear end tenkeyless layout). If I can find a buyer for the K6, I think I'll go ahead and get a K2. At least these are, relatively speaking, very cheap (and shipped in only like a week which is kind of incredible given the state of the world and, like, normal mechanical keyboard lead times) on the plus side: mac has the ability to remap caps lock to ctrl built in, which is pretty impressive. I know Windows now has the PowerToys thing for basic rebinds like that but it's nice you can mess around with modifier keys with no extra software abraham linksys fucked around with this message at 16:57 on Jul 22, 2020 |
# ? Jul 22, 2020 16:54 |
This is unfortunately a byproduct of buying small form keyboards that don't support something like QMK.
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# ? Jul 22, 2020 18:29 |
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Yeah, you can always get a hasu to get QMK on regular keyboards (if you can justify the additional cost) https://www.1upkeyboards.com/shop/controllers/usb-to-usb-converter/
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# ? Jul 23, 2020 02:12 |
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Hey folks, could anyone lend me a hand with a keyboard project I'm doing? I picked up a sweet 16 macroboard and I've got it "somewhat" working. I'm not super versed in circuts and would like to troubleshoot my work a bit before just desoldering everything and taking another swing at things. Is there a general methodology I can follow to try and ferret out where I may have screwed up? I assume a multimeter is involved somehow.
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# ? Jul 24, 2020 01:50 |
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Warbird posted:Hey folks, could anyone lend me a hand with a keyboard project I'm doing? I picked up a sweet 16 macroboard and I've got it "somewhat" working. I'm not super versed in circuts and would like to troubleshoot my work a bit before just desoldering everything and taking another swing at things. Is there a general methodology I can follow to try and ferret out where I may have screwed up? I assume a multimeter is involved somehow. What's up with it? First instinct, are all your diodes installed in the right direction? E: just post a pic of it Fantastic Foreskin fucked around with this message at 01:59 on Jul 24, 2020 |
# ? Jul 24, 2020 01:54 |
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Some Goon posted:What's up with it? First instinct, are all your diodes installed in the right direction? Some keys work, some don’t. Did a check of the diodes and they seem to be set up properly. SWs 7 10 12 15 and 16 are working as expected but the rest aren’t playing ball. Opposite side: I’m not happy about the pin/wire bits but I don’t have a way to cut them closer currently. All bits are folded down in such a way to not touch any other elements or pads.
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# ? Jul 24, 2020 02:48 |
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Maybe it's just a bad pic but I'm not seeing much if any solder on most connections. I'd start with making sure you have solid connections.
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# ? Jul 24, 2020 02:54 |
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I would say a lot of the solder joints don't look ideal. I would try reflowing the solder for pretty much all the diodes, switches, and the Pro Micro pins. edit: Nondescript Van!!! HappyCapybaraFamily fucked around with this message at 03:04 on Jul 24, 2020 |
# ? Jul 24, 2020 03:02 |
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Fair enough, I’ll strip it down and take another swing at things. Can anyone recommend a decent guide/video for soldering basics or techniques? I could use a refresher.
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# ? Jul 24, 2020 03:12 |
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The Adafruit Guide To Excellent Soldering was really useful for me Some people have found this comic useful as well: https://mightyohm.com/files/soldercomic/FullSolderComic_EN.pdf I have an irrational prejudice against video tutorials in general, so I don't have any YouTube recommendations edit: changed phrasing to reflect my level/lack of experience more accurately HappyCapybaraFamily fucked around with this message at 03:47 on Jul 24, 2020 |
# ? Jul 24, 2020 03:38 |
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1upkeyboard has a video tutorial assembling one from scratch, soldering and all. Should help along with the other links HappyCapybaraFamily posted https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bw-BvKnZqBg
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# ? Jul 24, 2020 05:47 |
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Warbird posted:Fair enough, I’ll strip it down and take another swing at things. Can anyone recommend a decent guide/video for soldering basics or techniques? I could use a refresher. Before that. A quick test you can do is take a pair of metal tweezers or a piece of wire and bridge the key switch through holes to complete the connections to see if the circuits are completing.
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# ? Jul 24, 2020 15:26 |
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The Electronaut posted:Before that. A quick test you can do is take a pair of metal tweezers or a piece of wire and bridge the key switch through holes to complete the connections to see if the circuits are completing. I assume this is done while plugged in and whatnot? I have a multimeter lying around, could that be used to the same effect?
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# ? Jul 24, 2020 16:27 |
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This thread seems mostly geared toward building your own keyboard, but are there any preferred brands if I wanted to buy something that I won't have to piece together? I do some gaming(nothing extreme, I'm not going to win any tournaments) and some light programming. I don't need anything too special but I'd like to get something mechanical of good quality. Wishlist items: Number pad Volume Controls Ergonomic wrist pad (Not a must, could always buy one) I tried doing some searching but every website has a different opinion and I prefer to blindly trust goons on recommendations.
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# ? Jul 24, 2020 22:59 |
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Drop Skylight keycap set came in. https://i.imgur.com/ieTgOFu.mp4 Still going to bother me that the first two keys on the top row shine through more than the rest because those LEDs are flipped. I wouldn't be bothered if it were just the first key but for some reason having both this way is maddening. Shine through is really good and they reflect the underglow really well too. Overall the set is definitely sorta cheap. Some of the keys are a little crooked as they sit on the switches but not terribly so, and there are molding marks around the bottom of the caps, but whatever. They feel very nice at least, and they came super fast compared to every other keycap set I've bought.
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# ? Jul 24, 2020 23:08 |
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snackcakes posted:I tried doing some searching but every website has a different opinion and I prefer to blindly trust goons on recommendations. Keychron if you want bluetooth / multi device and Mac support. I’ve got the k2 and k4 for personal and work use, haven’t had any issues with their keyboards. K4 has the numpad without the bloated spacing. I’ve got their k8 from Kickstarter also on the way for reasons I’m not certain yet. Code by wasd keyboards are also another good choice, I used one of their boards for a few years, but the Keychron’s bells and whistles were perfect for my lack of diy beyond switches and keycaps interest.
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# ? Jul 24, 2020 23:12 |
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snackcakes posted:This thread seems mostly geared toward building your own keyboard, but are there any preferred brands if I wanted to buy something that I won't have to piece together? I swear I do not own stock in Ducky Channel nor am I their sales rep, but a Ducky full-size keyboard is nearly perfect for this. Pick the one that looks good to you, and make sure to pick your preferred switch too. For the wrist pad, I liked the Grifiti Fat ones.
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# ? Jul 24, 2020 23:20 |
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snackcakes posted:This thread seems mostly geared toward building your own keyboard, but are there any preferred brands if I wanted to buy something that I won't have to piece together? I've had a Corsair K70 for 5+ years and I haven't found a reason to replace it. It's got volume controls, seems to fit your description https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Gaming-Keyboards/c/Cor_Products_Keyboards e: mine doesn't have the horrible gamerz font on the caps like they do now though Varg fucked around with this message at 23:50 on Jul 24, 2020 |
# ? Jul 24, 2020 23:47 |
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What's the go-to for 60% PCB's with QMK or VIA support that have above switch SMD LED's? Only one I can think of off the top of my head is the BM60RGB. I think I'm gonna build another 60 with my DZ60RGB rev2 and make this purple tofu case + Drop Skylight keycaps a desk decoration. The shine through is really good on the two keys that have top-oriented LEDs.
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# ? Jul 25, 2020 04:41 |
snackcakes posted:This thread seems mostly geared toward building your own keyboard, but are there any preferred brands if I wanted to buy something that I won't have to piece together? The razer Hunstman elite is actually really good and Razer have done a good job of cutting back their design so it doesn't look "super elite gamer dragon cock" type anymore. The purple switches feel really nice personally. They aren't as rigid as MX blues. You can also get red switches for them too. It has a rotary volume control and a squishy wrist rest that is magnetic.
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# ? Jul 25, 2020 08:21 |
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If somebody is looking for a nice rgb hotswap 65%, kbdfans has restocked. https://kbdfans.com/products/dz68rgb-customize-keyboard-diy-kit If you choose the plastic case and aluminum plate, it's as low as $85 (plus shipping) which I think is a decent price. Or you can go for a red case and brass plate and add some foam in the mix (which I think is pretty baller).
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# ? Jul 25, 2020 21:48 |
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gently caress I bought a red case with a brass plate and foam.
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# ? Jul 25, 2020 23:35 |
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I can't catch much of a break. I went out and touched up my solder and now I have a different set of keys working than before. I'll go strip everything down as best I can and try from scratch. One thing though, I don't know how I'm going to get the pro micro out to access the bits it covers. I removed solder as best I could with my suction wand dohickey but couldn't get it to move.
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# ? Jul 26, 2020 03:39 |
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Warbird posted:I can't catch much of a break. I went out and touched up my solder and now I have a different set of keys working than before. I'll go strip everything down as best I can and try from scratch. One thing though, I don't know how I'm going to get the pro micro out to access the bits it covers. I removed solder as best I could with my suction wand dohickey but couldn't get it to move. A desoldering tool is what you need. http://www.hakko.com/english/products/hakko_fr301.html Or you could suffer through using a solder sucker, but I HIGHLY recommend the former. Especially if you ever plan to redo a keyboard with new switches.
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# ? Jul 26, 2020 04:55 |
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How bad would soldering hotswap sockets be for a first time project? I've got a new board coming and I can't decide if I'll risk trying to soldering the sockets myself or just send it off to someone else to handle. Pics of the board from the maker (mine is going to be solid black because I'm boring that way):
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# ? Jul 27, 2020 19:04 |
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.Z. posted:How bad would soldering hotswap sockets be for a first time project? I've got a new board coming and I can't decide if I'll risk trying to soldering the sockets myself or just send it off to someone else to handle. Contacts are ~1.5mm². Doesn't look too bad but I haven't taken an iron to them yet.
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# ? Jul 27, 2020 19:10 |
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.Z. posted:How bad would soldering hotswap sockets be for a first time project? I've got a new board coming and I can't decide if I'll risk trying to soldering the sockets myself or just send it off to someone else to handle. It's really not that bad. Once you get used to it, you can just auto pilot. I got a method that works really well for Mill-Max sockets in my post history here somewhere.
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# ? Jul 27, 2020 19:43 |
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.Z. posted:How bad would soldering hotswap sockets be for a first time project? I've got a new board coming and I can't decide if I'll risk trying to soldering the sockets myself or just send it off to someone else to handle. Keyboards were some of my first soldering projects and they're fairly easy in the sense that it's mostly through hole to solder the switches in place, and if you mess up you can check by plugging it in and seeing what keys work, or using a multimeter to check for continuity.
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# ? Jul 27, 2020 19:51 |
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Constellation I posted:It's really not that bad. Once you get used to it, you can just auto pilot. I got a method that works really well for Mill-Max sockets in my post history here somewhere. I'm assuming it's this post: Constellation I posted:My main method is: Should have clarified, the board I'm getting use Kailh hotswap sockets. So I think that method would end up pushing the sockets out a bit.
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# ? Jul 27, 2020 19:55 |
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Tin the pads, put the socket on, hit 'em with the iron for a second. There's no risk of bridging anything so I don't see much room for things to go wrong, short of melting the socket or lifting the pad by leaving the iron on too long. Just go for it.
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# ? Jul 27, 2020 20:01 |
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:What's the go-to for 60% PCB's with QMK or VIA support that have above switch SMD LED's? So I had no idea this was a thing: https://drop.com/buy/drop-carina-mechanical-keyboard-kit 12 hours left if anyone is interested. $100 for the case and PCB. There's no switches or keycaps available this round. Plates are + 20/30/40 extra depending on which you want. Seems a touch pricey when I can get a BM60RGB kit with all that for $60 from KP right now. GnarlyCharlie4u fucked around with this message at 20:18 on Jul 27, 2020 |
# ? Jul 27, 2020 20:13 |
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:So I had no idea this was a thing: I’m not good at making decisions but I did decide to grab this a few hours ago. I told myself I was done with 60% keyboards.
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# ? Jul 27, 2020 22:54 |
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LuckyCat posted:I’m not good at making decisions but I did decide to grab this a few hours ago. I told myself I was done with 60% keyboards. Yeah I'm still fighting back the urge but honestly I don't think I'll be able to resi... Whoops my finger slipped! I just bought it.
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# ? Jul 27, 2020 23:16 |
Is the only full size hot swappable keyboard out there the GMMK? I'm looking into a new mechanical keyboard, and a hot swappable one would be great to be able to use the niche switches out there, but I'm pretty set on a full size, and it seems like my only option to get both is from that company. If that's really, truly it, I'd be amenable to getting a TKL, but I'd still be getting a separate numpad to go with it.
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# ? Jul 27, 2020 23:48 |
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Saturnine Aberrance posted:Is the only full size hot swappable keyboard out there the GMMK? I'm looking into a new mechanical keyboard, and a hot swappable one would be great to be able to use the niche switches out there, but I'm pretty set on a full size, and it seems like my only option to get both is from that company. There are some others, but their quality is an unknown quantity to me: https://kono.store/collections/all-products-list/products/hexgears-impulse-mechanical-keyboard https://www.amazon.com/Drakken-Technologies-Mechanical-Programmable-Anti-Ghosting/dp/B073VDD6PT If you are open to a 1800/96key layout there is there are a few on AliExpress: Acrylic Case: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/328...8%2315616%23751 Aluminum Case: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/329...wE&gclsrc=aw.ds
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# ? Jul 28, 2020 06:28 |
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Saturnine Aberrance posted:Is the only full size hot swappable keyboard out there the GMMK? I'm looking into a new mechanical keyboard, and a hot swappable one would be great to be able to use the niche switches out there, but I'm pretty set on a full size, and it seems like my only option to get both is from that company. I highly recommend the Drakken Spektrum keyboard. It is heavier and sturdier than the GMMK, the price is great (I bought it for $90 a few months ago, seeing the price now I might pick up another), and it comes with Kailh switches and hotswap sockets. I wrote one of the reviews on Amazon. I threw some Kailh Box Navy switches on there so it's loud as hell and super tactile Unfortunately the wheel can still only be used for controlling the lighting, they have been promising programmability for a while but no updates. bub fucked around with this message at 09:45 on Jul 28, 2020 |
# ? Jul 28, 2020 09:42 |
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Silly question, does having hotswap sockets really just mean you only have to push the switches into place? I know it means you don't need to solder them, but is it that simple? 'Cause I finally have an excuse to replace my lovely VM01 (the B switch only works like 1/2 the time! ) and I want Cherry MX Clears. Or at least I think I do--I love my Browns but keep feeling like I want more oomph to the bump--and a bunch of the options I'm looking at don't have those available pre-built.
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# ? Jul 28, 2020 15:36 |
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# ? Mar 28, 2024 22:44 |
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Yup, that's exactly what it is. The only thing that's a hassle is pulling the switch out, depending on the plate of the keyboard, could be a pain if it's tight on there.
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# ? Jul 28, 2020 16:35 |