Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Paul MaudDib
May 2, 2006

"Tell me of your home world, Usul"


GnarlyCharlie4u posted:

I'm a big proponent of "buy once, cry once" so I have a really nice soldering iron, but just about anything with an appropriately sized tip will do.

what's your recommendation for a hot air reflow station?

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

.Z.
Jan 12, 2008






Dr Cheesequake posted:

I also jumped on the murphpad bandwagon. Is there a specific soldering iron thatís recommended, or can I just buy whatever? Never thought that I would find myself wanting to fully assemble a keyboard, but here we are.

I have a good enough setup with a mini ts100 with a D24 tip. I only do occasional soldering tasks, so it's nice to have a setup that takes up little storage space.

I probably paid a bit less than getting it from Amazon as I went through banggood. But I'm not seeing the TS100 listed there anymore.
https://www.amazon.com/NovelLife-Mini-TS100-Soldering-Digital/dp/B07D35B75T
https://www.amazon.com/NovelLife-Original-Soldering-Tip-TS-D24/dp/B07S354ZGW
https://www.amazon.com/Soldering-Cleaner-Electronics-Metalworking-Welding/dp/B07V96LW7Z

LochNessMonster
Feb 3, 2005

I need about three fitty



GnarlyCharlie4u posted:

No, the solder sticks to the top of the pin and the MCU.
Provided you're using flux core solder and didn't paint all the pins and the pcb with flux this won't be an issue.

...even then I imagine it would be REAL hard to actually get solder to flow all the way down.

Itís been over a decade since I soldered anything, this sounds doable without loving it up I guess.

Gonna order myself babys first complete DIY kit.

Edit: I have a gifted 2-3 decade old soldering iron. Would it be advisable to dump it and get a new one or have irons not changed much over the years?

redeyes
Sep 14, 2002
I LOVE THE WHITE STRIPES!

*ahem* https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D...050&s=hi&sr=1-1

redeyes
Sep 14, 2002
I LOVE THE WHITE STRIPES!

Paul MaudDib posted:

what's your recommendation for a hot air reflow station?
https://store.rossmanngroup.com/atten-862.html

Zarin
Nov 11, 2008

I SEE YOU


My buddy currently has one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075DWBJP9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's essentially a basic keyboard he uses for gaming mostly, with Outemu Black switches.

The only real issue with it is that the "E" key is starting to randomly not work. He is mostly fine with the switches, and I'm not getting the impression that he's at all interested in getting into keyboards at all. He pretty much just wants a replacement that is not too cheap/flimsy, nor too expensive - basically the quintessential Goon desire for A Good Value.

I looked on mechanicalkeyboards.com and it looked like they had zero options in Outemu Black?

If there is something out there that fits the criteria, even if it's "Outemu Black, but better" or whatever, I think he could be interested. I'm half tempted to recommend a GMMK or something so that he could just swap a switch out if it ever got fucky again or whatever but if there are good pre-built boards out there (or better hot-swappable boards I guess) then I'd probably go that route.

Anyone have any thoughts?

.Z.
Jan 12, 2008






Zarin posted:

My buddy currently has one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075DWBJP9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's essentially a basic keyboard he uses for gaming mostly, with Outemu Black switches.

The only real issue with it is that the "E" key is starting to randomly not work. He is mostly fine with the switches, and I'm not getting the impression that he's at all interested in getting into keyboards at all. He pretty much just wants a replacement that is not too cheap/flimsy, nor too expensive - basically the quintessential Goon desire for A Good Value.

I looked on mechanicalkeyboards.com and it looked like they had zero options in Outemu Black?

If there is something out there that fits the criteria, even if it's "Outemu Black, but better" or whatever, I think he could be interested. I'm half tempted to recommend a GMMK or something so that he could just swap a switch out if it ever got fucky again or whatever but if there are good pre-built boards out there (or better hot-swappable boards I guess) then I'd probably go that route.

Anyone have any thoughts?

Keychron C1 hotswap will be cheaper: https://www.amazon.com/Keychron-Swappable-White-Backlight-Switch/dp/B08CNB33R4
If he has to have Otemu black: https://www.amazon.com/Keyswitch-Replaceable-Switches-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B07TKKSS55
If he wants to save a bit of money, he could try Kailh black box switches: https://novelkeys.xyz/products/kailh-box-switches?variant=37605909921959

With Otemu, it'll end up being about the same cost as a GMMK.

edit: C1 not C2

.Z. fucked around with this message at 19:25 on Mar 28, 2021

Zarin
Nov 11, 2008

I SEE YOU


.Z. posted:

Keychron C2 hotswap will be cheaper: https://www.amazon.com/Keychron-Swappable-White-Backlight-Switch/dp/B08CNB33R4
If he has to have Otemu black: https://www.amazon.com/Keyswitch-Replaceable-Switches-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B07TKKSS55
If he wants to save a bit of money, he could try Kailh black box switches: https://novelkeys.xyz/products/kailh-box-switches?variant=37605909921959

With Otemu, it'll end up being about the same cost as a GMMK.

Are the Outemu actually better than the Kailh Box Black? Or is the higher price driven by some other factor?

.Z.
Jan 12, 2008






Zarin posted:

Are the Outemu actually better than the Kailh Box Black? Or is the higher price driven by some other factor?

I really can't say, I don't have any experience with outemu blacks. But I've been happy with all my experiences with Kailh, so I was just throwing it out there as a cheaper alternative.

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!



Zarin posted:

My buddy currently has one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075DWBJP9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's essentially a basic keyboard he uses for gaming mostly, with Outemu Black switches.

The only real issue with it is that the "E" key is starting to randomly not work. He is mostly fine with the switches, and I'm not getting the impression that he's at all interested in getting into keyboards at all. He pretty much just wants a replacement that is not too cheap/flimsy, nor too expensive - basically the quintessential Goon desire for A Good Value.

I looked on mechanicalkeyboards.com and it looked like they had zero options in Outemu Black?

If there is something out there that fits the criteria, even if it's "Outemu Black, but better" or whatever, I think he could be interested. I'm half tempted to recommend a GMMK or something so that he could just swap a switch out if it ever got fucky again or whatever but if there are good pre-built boards out there (or better hot-swappable boards I guess) then I'd probably go that route.

Anyone have any thoughts?

He could spray some deoxit in the switch and tap it a bunch to see if it clears up, could just be some crud on the contacts.

GnarlyCharlie4u
Sep 23, 2007

I have an unhealthy obsession with motorcycles.

Proof



oh gently caress that is downright CHEAP. I'm tempted to get one just to see how good it is.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010




goddamnit got my cospad number pad PCB today and the "1" key position circuit on a standard number pad is not working. I assume that when testing it should light up just like any of the other key positions.

Time to get a new one.

redeyes
Sep 14, 2002
I LOVE THE WHITE STRIPES!

GnarlyCharlie4u posted:

oh gently caress that is downright CHEAP. I'm tempted to get one just to see how good it is.

If Rossman sells it, its good.

Brownie
Jul 21, 2007
The Croatian Sensation

I recently assembled a board using a up the DZ60 RGB v2 v2 which has those hotswappable kailh sockets, and I'm encountering lots of weirdness with it. Sometimes keys just won't respond until I switch the RGB mode, and at least one of my keys stopped working because the tension in the socket copper leaves wasn't strong enough to push the leaves against the switch leads (I was able to kind of bend them back in the place, and bent the lead a tiny bit, which seemed to fix it). Has anyone else encountered similar issues with their hot swap boards?

Other than these issues, I'm really happy I got a hot swappable PCB. I initially fitted it with some Gateron yellows and while they were nice and smooth, when I briefly switched back to cherry browns, if felt like a bit of revelation. So I think linear switches just aren't really for me, at least not combined with the texture of ABS. I'm trying the Box Jades out now, and enjoying it, although I feel like I need to build up callouses on my fingers or something! They are surprisingly stiff, I can't imagine trying to type on Navies.

TacticalHoodie
May 7, 2007
Probation
Can't post for 17 days!


Is there any good resources when it comes to switch film compatibility? I am planning out a GMMK Pro build down the road and I been interested in using Tactile Penguin switches. However, the maker of the switch suggests not to use film but the few posts I found on the Reddit MK community is recommending it but not saying how thick they would use on a Tactile Penguin switch. I am assuming they are too new and not that popular for people to try filming the switch or experimentation in general.

I don't want to do what I did with a Hako Clears with a botched lube job and having to toss them out from inconsistent typing feeling for the Halo Clears that I lubed and filmed properly. I do want to get rid of stem wobble on any switch I own.

interrodactyl
Nov 8, 2011

you have no dignity


TacticalHoodie posted:

Is there any good resources when it comes to switch film compatibility? I am planning out a GMMK Pro build down the road and I been interested in using Tactile Penguin switches. However, the maker of the switch suggests not to use film but the few posts I found on the Reddit MK community is recommending it but not saying how thick they would use on a Tactile Penguin switch. I am assuming they are too new and not that popular for people to try filming the switch or experimentation in general.

I don't want to do what I did with a Hako Clears with a botched lube job and having to toss them out from inconsistent typing feeling for the Halo Clears that I lubed and filmed properly. I do want to get rid of stem wobble on any switch I own.

Just buy Deskey films. Penguins are pretty close to ergo clears (and other clear imitator variants), in case you want an idea of what you're getting.

GnarlyCharlie4u
Sep 23, 2007

I have an unhealthy obsession with motorcycles.

Proof


Brownie posted:

I recently assembled a board using a up the DZ60 RGB v2 v2 which has those hotswappable kailh sockets, and I'm encountering lots of weirdness with it. Sometimes keys just won't respond until I switch the RGB mode, and at least one of my keys stopped working because the tension in the socket copper leaves wasn't strong enough to push the leaves against the switch leads (I was able to kind of bend them back in the place, and bent the lead a tiny bit, which seemed to fix it). Has anyone else encountered similar issues with their hot swap boards?

Other than these issues, I'm really happy I got a hot swappable PCB. I initially fitted it with some Gateron yellows and while they were nice and smooth, when I briefly switched back to cherry browns, if felt like a bit of revelation. So I think linear switches just aren't really for me, at least not combined with the texture of ABS. I'm trying the Box Jades out now, and enjoying it, although I feel like I need to build up callouses on my fingers or something! They are surprisingly stiff, I can't imagine trying to type on Navies.

It's a weird pcb. I have problems with the eeprom getting wiped or reset and sometimes the LEDs just randomly change.
I've rebuilt it several times and tested the switches beforehand so I know that's not it. I tried uninstalling/reinstalling the drivers and using different usb cables but the problem still randomly occurs. It's not frequent but once every few months it still happens.
Also it has a real bad day if it gets shocked, so I've just stopped using that board in the winter when it's dry and I wear puffy jackets or things that cause static.

TacticalHoodie posted:

Is there any good resources when it comes to switch film compatibility? I am planning out a GMMK Pro build down the road and I been interested in using Tactile Penguin switches. However, the maker of the switch suggests not to use film but the few posts I found on the Reddit MK community is recommending it but not saying how thick they would use on a Tactile Penguin switch. I am assuming they are too new and not that popular for people to try filming the switch or experimentation in general.

I don't want to do what I did with a Hako Clears with a botched lube job and having to toss them out from inconsistent typing feeling for the Halo Clears that I lubed and filmed properly. I do want to get rid of stem wobble on any switch I own.

I haven't personally filmed them but I also haven't heard any reason not to. I would also say just use Deskeys but I've asked around to a few people who have bought the switches to see if they've filmed them and what the outcome was.

e; consensus seems to be that they are plenty tight and don't NEED films but if you like the sound of filmed switches than deskeys will work.

GnarlyCharlie4u fucked around with this message at 16:54 on Mar 29, 2021

Brownie
Jul 21, 2007
The Croatian Sensation

GnarlyCharlie4u posted:

It's a weird pcb. I have problems with the eeprom getting wiped or reset and sometimes the LEDs just randomly change.
I've rebuilt it several times and tested the switches beforehand so I know that's not it. I tried uninstalling/reinstalling the drivers and using different usb cables but the problem still randomly occurs. It's not frequent but once every few months it still happens.
Also it has a real bad day if it gets shocked, so I've just stopped using that board in the winter when it's dry and I wear puffy jackets or things that cause static.

Yeah the RGB mode seems to change randomly on me as well! Good to know it's not just me, thanks. Kind of annoying that these issues exist though.

Stroop There It Is
Mar 11, 2012


please dont post pics of me :\

please dont post pics of me :\





KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

goddamnit got my cospad number pad PCB today and the "1" key position circuit on a standard number pad is not working. I assume that when testing it should light up just like any of the other key positions.

Time to get a new one.
IDK if this is remotely helpful but when I assembled my Cospad, I had an issue with one key not working because it was shorting out due to part of my stabilizer touching the PCB (I think). So I reseated and made sure my o-rings were insulating it properly, and it worked fine after that.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010




Stroop There It Is posted:

IDK if this is remotely helpful but when I assembled my Cospad, I had an issue with one key not working because it was shorting out due to part of my stabilizer touching the PCB (I think). So I reseated and made sure my o-rings were insulating it properly, and it worked fine after that.

Thanks for the tip! It was happening when I was doing the tweezer test before I did anything to the board other than load firmware so I don't think it would be shorting out for any other reasons.

On the 1 key on your cospad (if you can recall), was there a through hole drilled in the PCB that overlapped with one of the contact points? I suspect that hole was mis-drilled and broke one of the traces but it's very hard to tell. In pictures it looks like they all have this mount hole.

Stroop There It Is
Mar 11, 2012


please dont post pics of me :\

please dont post pics of me :\





KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

Thanks for the tip! It was happening when I was doing the tweezer test before I did anything to the board other than load firmware so I don't think it would be shorting out for any other reasons.

On the 1 key on your cospad (if you can recall), was there a through hole drilled in the PCB that overlapped with one of the contact points? I suspect that hole was mis-drilled and broke one of the traces but it's very hard to tell. In pictures it looks like they all have this mount hole.
I am not sure so here is a photo if that helps! I got this used and pre-mill-maxed


e: here is the pic of the PCB that the guy sent, it also has a wire fix underneath for one of the keys (which is what the red thing is)

Stroop There It Is fucked around with this message at 17:53 on Mar 29, 2021

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010




Thanks, it's helpful!

TacticalHoodie
May 7, 2007
Probation
Can't post for 17 days!


GnarlyCharlie4u posted:

I haven't personally filmed them but I also haven't heard any reason not to. I would also say just use Deskeys but I've asked around to a few people who have bought the switches to see if they've filmed them and what the outcome was.

e; consensus seems to be that they are plenty tight and don't NEED films but if you like the sound of filmed switches than deskeys will work.

I will because I am all about that thock life. It was my favorite part of the Halo Clears when I lubed and filmed them last year and I want to keep it going at my work. They hate the box jades I am using so it will make the Tactile Penguins a little easier to manage.

Gwaihir
Dec 8, 2009



Hair Elf

TacticalHoodie posted:

Is there any good resources when it comes to switch film compatibility? I am planning out a GMMK Pro build down the road and I been interested in using Tactile Penguin switches. However, the maker of the switch suggests not to use film but the few posts I found on the Reddit MK community is recommending it but not saying how thick they would use on a Tactile Penguin switch. I am assuming they are too new and not that popular for people to try filming the switch or experimentation in general.

I don't want to do what I did with a Hako Clears with a botched lube job and having to toss them out from inconsistent typing feeling for the Halo Clears that I lubed and filmed properly. I do want to get rid of stem wobble on any switch I own.

FWIW I was totally unable to tell any difference at all between filmed and un-filmed switches when I tried them out. I put films on a few, tossed all but one in the bag with my other switches, and jumbled them up before assembling. I kept one out to put in a spot where I knew where it'd be so I could have one reference for sure. After installing everything I couldn't have told you which was which if my life depended on it. This was with Alpaca switches. I would 100% be down with lubricating switches and stabilizers to get a better experience because I think that makes a dramatic change, but the films were like "lol ok sure thing, this aint worth the time."

JohnnyTreachery
Dec 7, 2000


.Z. posted:

Switches: Look into Boba U4s silent or tactile for cheaper alternative to Zeals. But if you like using blues, Iíd look into Box White switches.

Keycaps: Any standard TKL or 75% set should work. I imagine the GMMK sets will be adequate as well. If you are uncertain about compatibility, just post it here and we can tell you.


For any of those switches would cherry profile keycaps work? These, specifically: https://kbdfans.com/products/enjoypbt-blank-keycaps-117keys?variant=36740706893

edit: vv Thanks!

JohnnyTreachery fucked around with this message at 09:01 on Mar 31, 2021

.Z.
Jan 12, 2008






JohnnyTreachery posted:

For any of those switches would cherry profile keycaps work? These, specifically: https://kbdfans.com/products/enjoypbt-blank-keycaps-117keys?variant=36740706893

Yep

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010




In case anyone cares (no), I solved my Cospad issue - they had me jump some random transistor to a seemingly random trace and it worked fine after that. Small electronics is basically sorcery.

Zarin
Nov 11, 2008

I SEE YOU


Out of curiosity, can you put Kailh BOX or Outemu switches into a MassDrop CTRL?

Second question: The CTRL comes with some really nice PBT caps; is it still considered good, or is it overpriced compared to other hot-swappable boards out there?

Gwaihir
Dec 8, 2009



Hair Elf

Boxes work fine on the CTRL (and all other Drop boards). The CTRL is definitely priced high, but it's also very well built imo.

Disharmony
Dec 29, 2000

Like a hundred crippled horses lying crumpled on the ground

Begging for a rifle to come and put them down


Is it true that the cracking issue was resolved with the latest batch of NK65EE's?

CRAYON
Feb 13, 2006

In the year 3000..

Disharmony posted:

Is it true that the cracking issue was resolved with the latest batch of NK65EE's?

Not sure when the latest batch was sold, but I picked one up at the end of January and the case has some hairline cracks in the corners.

Cretin90
Apr 10, 2006


Complete MK noob here, looking for recommendations/validation on what I'm looking at.

Need a keyboard primarily for gaming (mostly FPS, some strategy and RPG) that will also be relatively quiet to avoid driving my partner insane. For reference, she considers cherry blues about 50% above what she could tolerate.

I've picked out a few keyboards I think suit my needs, but I'm listing my criteria below to see if you guys can magically find me something that is either better bang for the buck (build quality, features, etc.) or the same bang for less buck.

Other criteria:

Backlighting cool but not required
~80% TKL w/ 6-key cluster seems about right for layout
<$125
PBT, doubleshot preferred but not required
Silent black has my favorite sound but silent reds are fine
Aesthetically pleasing but this is obviously completely subjective - anything from the minimalist styling of the Night Typist below to the pleasant contrast of the Leopold

So far I'm looking at:

https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=4525 Leopold FC980M Sky Blue Dolch PD Double Shot PBT Mechanical Keyboard w/ cherry silent reds
-probably my favorite but I hate the Confidence: Low on ship date, god knows when I might get this. I haven't developed the patience many of you probably have for waiting months for exotic keycaps.

https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=4295 MK Night Typist Warm White LED Backlit, PBT Double Shot keycaps, Type C USB, Programmable, 16 Layout Mechanical Keyboard w/ cherry silent reds
-same issue as above, delivered in June at the earliest. I know this is mfg by Ducky, I've had a hard time finding a Ducky that I love but I'm sure they're out there.

https://www.amazon.com/DURGOD-Mechanical-Keyboard-Interface-Anti-Ghosting/dp/B0855ZPFYH?th=1 Durgod Taurus K320 TKL Mechanical Gaming Keyboard - 87 Keys - Double Shot PBT - NKRO - USB Type C (Cherry Silent Black, Corona (White Backlit))
-bit outside the price range but would literally deliver tomorrow and checks all the boxes. Could probably be persuaded to get this one. A little hesitant with terrible reviews on the software and costing $30 more than I'd like.

.Z.
Jan 12, 2008






Zarin posted:

Second question: The CTRL comes with some really nice PBT caps; is it still considered good, or is it overpriced compared to other hot-swappable boards out there?

A bit overpriced compared to other hot-swap boards. But if you want to dip your toes into high-end keyboards and not wait months, Drop keyboards are the best option. They're sold on Amazon, so you could get it tomorrow and easily return it if you didn't like it. Full QMK support, easy-to-use web interface QMK alternative, owned by lots of people so issue support is easy to get, etc.

The only readily available alternatives in the same area of cost would be through KBDFans or Aliexpress vendors. They aren't bad alternatives either, but you start making trade-offs going with them. Shipping costs/time being the big ones.


Cretin90 posted:

Complete MK noob here, looking for recommendations/validation on what I'm looking at.

Need a keyboard primarily for gaming (mostly FPS, some strategy and RPG) that will also be relatively quiet to avoid driving my partner insane. For reference, she considers cherry blues about 50% above what she could tolerate.

I've picked out a few keyboards I think suit my needs, but I'm listing my criteria below to see if you guys can magically find me something that is either better bang for the buck (build quality, features, etc.) or the same bang for less buck.

Other criteria:

Backlighting cool but not required
~80% TKL w/ 6-key cluster seems about right for layout
<$125
PBT, doubleshot preferred but not required
Silent black has my favorite sound but silent reds are fine
Aesthetically pleasing but this is obviously completely subjective - anything from the minimalist styling of the Night Typist below to the pleasant contrast of the Leopold

So far I'm looking at:

https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=4525 Leopold FC980M Sky Blue Dolch PD Double Shot PBT Mechanical Keyboard w/ cherry silent reds
-probably my favorite but I hate the Confidence: Low on ship date, god knows when I might get this. I haven't developed the patience many of you probably have for waiting months for exotic keycaps.

https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=4295 MK Night Typist Warm White LED Backlit, PBT Double Shot keycaps, Type C USB, Programmable, 16 Layout Mechanical Keyboard w/ cherry silent reds
-same issue as above, delivered in June at the earliest. I know this is mfg by Ducky, I've had a hard time finding a Ducky that I love but I'm sure they're out there.

https://www.amazon.com/DURGOD-Mechanical-Keyboard-Interface-Anti-Ghosting/dp/B0855ZPFYH?th=1 Durgod Taurus K320 TKL Mechanical Gaming Keyboard - 87 Keys - Double Shot PBT - NKRO - USB Type C (Cherry Silent Black, Corona (White Backlit))
-bit outside the price range but would literally deliver tomorrow and checks all the boxes. Could probably be persuaded to get this one. A little hesitant with terrible reviews on the software and costing $30 more than I'd like.

If you really need it sooner rather than later, Keychron C1 or C2 are not bad options. You can get them hotswap with either white or rgb backlight.
C1: https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-c1-wired-mechanical-keyboard?variant=32321247182937
C2: https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-c2-wired-mechanical-keyboard?variant=32294075170905

Downside is they don't come with an option for silent red or black, so you would have to buy those in addition. But it would still end up cheaper than the options you listed, even if you went for Cherry MX over cheaper alternatives.

That said, if you have no intention of fiddling around with the board and can wait. I think I'd still favor the Leopold.

edit:
Taking a quick look, you might end up having problems finding MX Silent Black at a reasonable prices. Looks like it's all sold out for anyone not charging almost $1 per switch.
Gatreon Silent Black Alternatives: https://novelkeys.xyz/products/gateron-silent-switches?variant=37605973622951

.Z. fucked around with this message at 18:16 on Apr 1, 2021

mewse
May 2, 2006




Cretin90 posted:

I hate the Confidence: Low on ship date, god knows when I might get this.

Yeah I don't think it's good to order from mechanicalkeyboards.com unless it's in stock, or unless you're fine with an indeterminate wait time. You could get this board and these keycaps to have a TKL with the color scheme you want and the silent red switches.

Stroop There It Is
Mar 11, 2012


please dont post pics of me :\

please dont post pics of me :\





.Z. posted:

If you really need it sooner rather than later, Keychron C1 or C2 are not bad options. You can get them hotswap with either white or rgb backlight.
C1: https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-c1-wired-mechanical-keyboard?variant=32321247182937
C2: https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-c2-wired-mechanical-keyboard?variant=32294075170905
Huh cool, I didn't realize these were out already! Guessing that's pretty recent? I'd be mad that I got the Matias Quiet Pro instead of this for my husband if I hadn't gotten it for half-off, lol. (Plus I'm guessing the Matias switches are a bit more tactile than the Gat Browns this would've come with.)

Cretin90
Apr 10, 2006


.Z. posted:

A bit overpriced compared to other hot-swap boards. But if you want to dip your toes into high-end keyboards and not wait months, Drop keyboards are the best option. They're sold on Amazon, so you could get it tomorrow and easily return it if you didn't like it. Full QMK support, easy-to-use web interface QMK alternative, owned by lots of people so issue support is easy to get, etc.

The only readily available alternatives in the same area of cost would be through KBDFans or Aliexpress vendors. They aren't bad alternatives either, but you start making trade-offs going with them. Shipping costs/time being the big ones.


If you really need it sooner rather than later, Keychron C1 or C2 are not bad options. You can get them hotswap with either white or rgb backlight.
C1: https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-c1-wired-mechanical-keyboard?variant=32321247182937
C2: https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-c2-wired-mechanical-keyboard?variant=32294075170905

Downside is they don't come with an option for silent red or black, so you would have to buy those in addition. But it would still end up cheaper than the options you listed, even if you went for Cherry MX over cheaper alternatives.

That said, if you have no intention of fiddling around with the board and can wait. I think I'd still favor the Leopold.

edit:
Taking a quick look, you might end up having problems finding MX Silent Black at a reasonable prices. Looks like it's all sold out for anyone not charging almost $1 per switch.
Gatreon Silent Black Alternatives: https://novelkeys.xyz/products/gateron-silent-switches?variant=37605973622951

Thanks. Those do look pretty good. Side note, after watching more YouTube sound tests, I'm pretty sure the regular reds or blacks would be fine - they don't seem that loud at all. This should dramatically open up my options, so I'm going to get back to the drawing board.


mewse posted:

Yeah I don't think it's good to order from mechanicalkeyboards.com unless it's in stock, or unless you're fine with an indeterminate wait time. You could get this board and these keycaps to have a TKL with the color scheme you want and the silent red switches.
Yeah, the indeterminate wait time is brutal. Ordering that keyboard and set of keys together would be well outside my price range, which I'm suspecting might be the case with almost any keyboard and full set of keycaps.

The Electronaut
May 10, 2009


Anyone else in Batch 1 for the GMMK Pro? They sent out the emails yesterday notifying of the 7 days you have to finalize your purchase.

interrodactyl
Nov 8, 2011

you have no dignity


The Electronaut posted:

Anyone else in Batch 1 for the GMMK Pro? They sent out the emails yesterday notifying of the 7 days you have to finalize your purchase.

I have a spot but do not plan to buy it. If any goon is interested in buying mine, just let me know. We can create an SA Mart thread as needed.

runawayturtles
Aug 2, 2004


.Z. posted:

If you really need it sooner rather than later, Keychron C1 or C2 are not bad options. You can get them hotswap with either white or rgb backlight.
C1: https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-c1-wired-mechanical-keyboard?variant=32321247182937
C2: https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-c2-wired-mechanical-keyboard?variant=32294075170905

Any idea how the C1 compares to the regular GMMK? Have been curious since it came out (ignoring keycaps since they would be replaced either way).

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Taffer
Oct 15, 2010




Welp I just lubed some switches for the first time ever, and now I'm never going to be able to go back. Interestingly I tried it on a couple different switch types, Kailh box reds and Gateron reds, on the Kailh's there was almost no effect at all, sound and feel were barely impacted. But on the Gateron red's it's like I'm using completely different keys on a completely different keyboard. Absolutely crazy.

Unfortunately I made the mistake of buying ones with black housings so no LED light gets through, looks like getting ones with transparent housings is going to be a really big markup. And I wanted to try some tactile switches with this setup too

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply