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mewse posted:Are you building a board? There are gateron silent brown switches. Do you mean building a custom board as opposed to buying something prebuilt? I guess I'd rather take something prebuilt since I'm totally inexperienced and custom building tends to get expensive fast often times. How do the gateron silent browns compare to the cherry mx browns?
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Sep 15, 2018 17:06
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Malefitz posted:Do you mean building a custom board as opposed to buying something prebuilt? I guess I'd rather take something prebuilt since I'm totally inexperienced and custom building tends to get expensive fast often times. I don’t think you can buy a preassembled board with them. They are smoother than cherrys and have sound dampeners integrated into the mold of the slider
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Sep 15, 2018 17:36
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I’m probably going to build my own keyboard (ergodox if that matters) somewhere down the road and want my switches to be tactile (not clicky though) and heavier than my current cherry browns. I used to be a pretty heavy typer and although I’ve gotten a bit better I still bottom out a lot. I noticed that MD has Zealios right now, should I just take the plunge and get the 78g ones or is 65/67 a better weight to start? LochNessMonster fucked around with this message at 17:45 on Sep 15, 2018 |
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Sep 15, 2018 17:42
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mewse posted:I don’t think you can buy a preassembled board with them. They are smoother than cherrys and have sound dampeners integrated into the mold of the slider Sounds good, but if you need to build your own board with them I guess I'll pass for now and just order a preassembled board with cherry mx browns. If it's too loud or I don't like it I can still send it back.
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Sep 15, 2018 18:34
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Malefitz posted:Sounds good, but if you need to build your own board with them I guess I'll pass for now and just order a preassembled board with cherry mx browns. If it's too loud or I don't like it I can still send it back. Get a velocifire with browns they are great and cheap
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Sep 15, 2018 18:42
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G-Prime posted:How heavy of a spring are you into? Kailh Box Heavy Dark Yellow feels like a dream to me, but they're 70g, and that's pretty rough for some people. Yeah I definitely like the lighter side of things. I have a board with MX Reds that are a little too light (and scratchy, ugh). I just pulled the clickbar out of a Box Jade and a Box Navy, and the Jade feels about right.
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Sep 15, 2018 18:48
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AgentCow007 posted:Yeah I definitely like the lighter side of things. I have a board with MX Reds that are a little too light (and scratchy, ugh). I just pulled the clickbar out of a Box Jade and a Box Navy, and the Jade feels about right. Kailh box red would be the same as jade without the click bar.
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Sep 15, 2018 19:00
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mewse posted:Get a velocifire with browns they are great and cheap
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Sep 15, 2018 20:11
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Malefitz posted:Thanks for the suggestion. I can only find them on ebay shipped from the US tough which makes it infeasible if I want to test it and send it back if I don't like it... Oh sorry I didn't account for Germany. I was able to get a velocifire in canada for cheap through amazon.ca but it looks like amazon.de doesn't carry them. Caseking.de carries the GMMK fullsize: https://www.caseking.de/en/glorious-pc-gaming-race-gmmk-full-size-tastatur-barebone-gata-971.html With that you could order gateron silent browns from kbdfans in china, snip the PCB mount posts off with flush cutters and use them with whatever keycap set you want, no soldering. e: and then if you don't like the switches you can buy some other ones 
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Sep 15, 2018 20:36
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mewse posted:Oh sorry I didn't account for Germany. I was able to get a velocifire in canada for cheap through amazon.ca but it looks like amazon.de doesn't carry them. I don't really want to build myself right now but thanks for suggesting caseking.de! I was really getting frustrated because amazon.de sold only crap and mykeyboard.eu doesn't really have a huge or affordable assortment, so caseking is a godsend! Free shipping AND free return, that's what I want! I am looking at this keyboard right now GMMK Full-Size Tastatur - Gateron Brown, US-Layout. It's basically what you have suggested, but already equipped with gateron browns and (ABS) keycaps, for an affordable price. Any huge issues with that one? Otherwise I would just order it and try it out 
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Sep 15, 2018 21:07
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mewse posted:Get a velocifire with browns they are great and cheap They are great, except the Y and 8 on mine are on the fritz. Putting something between the keycap and switch helps temporarily, but I haven’t found anything that lasts. Maybe I just need to buy a tiny roll of scotch tape. Otherwise it’s at least new caps, and maybe paying the markup for two new switches. Probably a clear for the space bar while I’m at it. Are the Velocifires soldered? I’ve got a cheap Harbor Freight iron and solder, how hard is it for a novice to do it? I’ve only soldered maybe twice, and that was with help. I know how, I just don’t have much experience. E: Apparently the Gateron clears are linear and light. What would be a good choice for a heavier switch with the same feel as a Gateron Brown? 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 21:20 on Sep 15, 2018 |
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Sep 15, 2018 21:07
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Malefitz posted:I don't really want to build myself right now but thanks for suggesting caseking.de! I was really getting frustrated because amazon.de sold only crap and mykeyboard.eu doesn't really have a huge or affordable assortment, so caseking is a godsend! Free shipping AND free return, that's what I want! Yeah that should be good. The hot-swap sockets on the GMMK are really special.
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Sep 15, 2018 21:08
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Are the Velocifires soldered? I’ve got a cheap Harbor Freight iron and solder, how hard is it for a novice to do it? I’ve only soldered maybe twice, and that was with help. I know how, I just don’t have much experience. Yes, they're soldered. The soldering is extremely easy, it's a through-hole connection for the switches so it's not like soldering surface mount chips. You might be able to re-solder the switches that are flaking out, but it might be the switch itself.
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Sep 15, 2018 21:13
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Worth a shot at least. Not sure if it’s the switch or key wiggle. It seems to work with no keycap, but that could just be changing the way I’m hitting it. I edited after other people posted. What could I use that feels the same as a Gateron Brown but heavier? I want my space bar to be a bit heavier. The weight of the bar itself makes it very easy to hit accidentally.
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Sep 15, 2018 21:22
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Worth a shot at least. Not sure if it’s the switch or key wiggle. It seems to work with no keycap, but that could just be changing the way I’m hitting it. For Cherry MX switches, Clears are browns with heavier springs. However it seems like Gateron has changed it up and their clears have lighter springs and are linear. Space bars are what the cherry mx clears were originally designed for, with the stiffer spring counteracting the heavier keycap. Even though they're not the same manufacturer I'd consider getting a cherry MX clear for the spacebar since I can't seem to see a heavier tactile non-clicky gateron available (at least looking at mechanicalkeyboards inventory). http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/products/keyboard-parts/cherry-mx-clear-keyswitch-mx1a-c1nn-tactile-bump.html https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=851
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Sep 15, 2018 21:34
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Malefitz posted:I don't really want to build myself right now but thanks for suggesting caseking.de! I was really getting frustrated because amazon.de sold only crap and mykeyboard.eu doesn't really have a huge or affordable assortment, so caseking is a godsend! Free shipping AND free return, that's what I want! Ok, caseking.de does not offer free shipping and even charge for paypal  Well at least return is free...
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Sep 15, 2018 21:57
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Rexxed posted:For Cherry MX switches, Clears are browns with heavier springs. However it seems like Gateron has changed it up and their clears have lighter springs and are linear. Space bars are what the cherry mx clears were originally designed for, with the stiffer spring counteracting the heavier keycap. Even though they're not the same manufacturer I'd consider getting a cherry MX clear for the spacebar since I can't seem to see a heavier tactile non-clicky gateron available (at least looking at mechanicalkeyboards inventory). Thanks. That’s what I was thinking, just not sure how similar the feel would be aside from the weight. Grittiness, actuation point, weight curve, etc. E: How do the Gateron silent browns feel compared to the normal browns? How quiet are they actually? It really doesn't matter right now since I've got an office to myself at home, but I'm curious. I specifically picked a brown switch keyboard because I wanted something quieter than blues / greens, the tactile feel was nice, and reds or black switch keyboards have a pretty hefty gaming markup. E2: What are the Aukey typewriter keycaps like to use? They look cool, but I'm concerned about the round shape messing me up after a lifetime of using rectangular caps. Also, the place I was looking that had super cheap switches doesn't have cherry clears right now. What about Zealio 65g switches? Also is Meckey alpha legit? 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 22:43 on Sep 15, 2018 |
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Sep 15, 2018 22:07
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I'm considering looking into getting a new keyboard, probably a TKL, however I've never had a good experience with mechanical keyboards. I've always found them much too bulky, aesthetically unpleasing, and the noise is something dreadful. My current keyboard of choice is the Logitech k740. It's pretty simple, backlit, really thin, low profile, quiet, feels great as my fingers just glide along it, and I've been using them for close to 8 years now probably, but I'm open to alternatives. Are there any mechanical keyboards which could possibly come close to the feel of the k740? https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Illuminated-Ultrathin-Laser-etched-Soft-touch/dp/B001F51G16 EDIT: I did some digging around for low-profile and chiclet mechanical keyboards. I found a couple of low-profile options, such as the HAVIT KB359L, Tesoro Gram Spectrum, and the fake "mecha-membrane" Razer Ornata. Tesoro also has the Gram XS which is a chiclet mechanical keyboard that looks basically like what I want, but I've heard really mixed reviews on them. Cooler Master apparently has the ck600 series coming out in a few months, with the ck630 looking almost exactly what I want, including coming in TKL form, so I guess I'll just wait for those to come out. Killsion fucked around with this message at 18:16 on Sep 16, 2018 |
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Sep 15, 2018 22:35
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mewse posted:Are you building a board? There are gateron silent brown switches. In addition to that, zealpc also has silent switches, but they're pretty expensive ( I like them though).
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Sep 16, 2018 10:36
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Lord Stimperor posted:In addition to that, zealpc also has silent switches, but they're pretty expensive ( I like them though). How did you decide which zeals you wanted?
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Sep 16, 2018 14:30
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Is there a disassembly manual/video for the TKL01? I can only find one for the model with the ten key, which has a different screw layout than mine. My Y button is nearly completely dead, so I’m hoping it’s just a bad solder. Is MecKey Alpha legit? They’ve got super cheap switches and ship from Hong Kong. I was thinking they seem a bit too cheap, but they probably just buy straight from the factories, and if you can get a board with Gaterons for $30, they must be like a nickel each from Gateron. The site is out of Cherry clears, though. Would a 65g Zealio be the same? 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 17:33 on Sep 16, 2018 |
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Sep 16, 2018 17:31
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LochNessMonster posted:How did you decide which zeals you wanted? You can get samplers on zealpc.net. It's not a waste of money imo because it gives you confidence in your purchasing decision. And in the end I just put them in a different project. I just looked and it's a sampler set compared to the I bought. Mine came with zeals with different actuation forces, and a linear one. I liked them all more or less equally. I decided that I'd rationalize my choice anyway once I made it, so it wouldn't actually matter as much. I bought zealencios (because silent) with 62g or 65g because those were the most popular and hence I reasoned they'd have the least risk of being bad for me. I also see that they've got silent linears now. Although I didn't really feel that linear zeals were any different than other linears. Lord Stimperor fucked around with this message at 17:49 on Sep 16, 2018 |
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Sep 16, 2018 17:47
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Another question: when I get into my Velocifire, is it obvious how to desolder the switches or do I need a video?
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Sep 16, 2018 18:11
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Another question: when I get into my Velocifire, is it obvious how to desolder the switches or do I need a video? I'm presuming you just have a soldering iron right now so you're just doing a visual inspection that the solder goes all the way around the hole, making a good solder joint. And then you can reflow it with your iron or maybe add a little bit of solder. To desolder you should get something called a solder sucker. This is basically the method: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eAobTkyMJAY
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Sep 16, 2018 18:36
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Huh, interesting. I was reading that a cotton sock inside-out can wipe it off pretty well. I've never had to remove it before, I've always needed to do it because a wire broke or I was just replacing a push-in Tamiya connector with a Deans. At least for now I'm just checking the old switch, if I get new switches I'll have to get them shipped anyway. I could probably find a cheap solder sucker at Harbor Freight, where I got my cheapass iron.
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Sep 16, 2018 19:21
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Huh, interesting. I was reading that a cotton sock inside-out can wipe it off pretty well. I've never had to remove it before, I've always needed to do it because a wire broke or I was just replacing a push-in Tamiya connector with a Deans. https://smile.amazon.com/GBSTORE-Sucking-Vacuum-Desoldering-Remover/dp/B01K72SBWY/ I think the better ones have silicone tips so they can bend and make a better seal around the soldering area, while having some heat resistance. Having some solder wick to get the last bits can be useful, too. There's a few kits with cheap solder suckers and wick on amazon: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0777LMVTT/ I had one of the bulb style ones from radio shack I got in the 90s that was garbage. I rarely see them for sale anymore but just don't bother if you see them, the solder-pult suckers are way better.
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Sep 16, 2018 19:46
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Brown's are the best key fight me
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Sep 16, 2018 20:13
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Lord Stimperor posted:You can get samplers on zealpc.net. It's not a waste of money imo because it gives you confidence in your purchasing decision. And in the end I just put them in a different project. The sampler set is expected to ship December. Not sure if I’m willing to wait that long on samples.
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Sep 16, 2018 21:31
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What does it mean when there's one key on your keyboard you have to press super hard to make it register
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Sep 16, 2018 22:01
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Depends. What kind of keyboard is it? Have you spilled any liquids on it?
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Sep 16, 2018 22:20
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HappyCapybaraFamily posted:Depends. What kind of keyboard is it? Have you spilled any liquids on it? It's a regular USB keyboard, and I don't think I have.
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Sep 16, 2018 22:21
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It means you need to spend $100 or so on a good mechanical keyboard, but then be slightly disappointed with the way the switches feel, and then learn to solder and build at least 4 more keyboards from kits and parts while you wait 9 months for the keycaps you preordered on Massdrop to arrive.tater_salad posted:Brown's are the best key fight me 
AgentCow007 fucked around with this message at 10:00 on Sep 17, 2018 |
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Sep 17, 2018 09:51
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For a starting / beginner keyboard you can also pick up a keyboard like this one and you can frustrate yourself pulling keycaps and switches for a day to replace them if you decide you dont' like them. https://amzn.to/2QCCPLM Yes they're Outemu switches, but I haven't had a problem. My first foray into mechanical keyboards went like this. FIrst I bought this one: https://amzn.to/2QCCPLM but I didn't like the red switches becuase there wasn't much of a tactile feedback, they were okay but it was missing that satisfying tactile keypressing. So then I bought this: https://amzn.to/2MGtEXo becuase it was about the same price as buying a bag of 100+ switches from china. The issue is that pulling 100+ keys and switches from 2 keyboards and then replacing them became a huge pain in the rear end. The red switches and rainbow keyboard now reside at work kuz I'm a huge dork. I'm the guy with fountain pens and a loud keyboard.
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Sep 17, 2018 14:24
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Question Friend posted:It's a regular USB keyboard, and I don't think I have. Can you pop the key off? See if something looks damaged underneath? Could be the mechanism, could be a stabilizer if it is a key that has one, that would cause it to be pushed unevenly. If these guys do sucker you into the rabbit hole of mechanical keyboards, the Velocifire ones are about $30 on Amazon for the wired models. Just get a new one. I got an open box one off of eBay and two of the keys have never worked right. So now I’m pulling it apart to check the solder. If I had gotten it new I could have just done an exchange. I’m exaggerating by rabbit hole. Mechanical keyboards are one of the many things goons can go over the top about, but since all of the knockoff switch makers came around you can get stuff that feels way better than any normal keyboard for $30-40.
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Sep 17, 2018 16:16
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yup you can get a "nice" mech keyboard in the 30-50 range, or you can get a bespoke limited edition artisinal hand crafted and stamped by the artisin's makers mark with hand-drawn keycaps for the low massdrop price of 459.98 +31.25 shipping and a wait time of 6mo-1.5 years.
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Sep 17, 2018 16:38
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Has anyone replaced switches on their TKL01? I’m having a hard time getting the faceplate off. There’s one spot up at the top near the cable where it’s just sticking. I’ve been trying to pry at it but I can’t find whatever is holding it shut. I can’t find a video of teardown for it, just for the VM01, which is completely different as far as screw placement and such. E: the dickheads hid one last screw behind a QC sticker.
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Sep 17, 2018 21:09
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Yeah the VM01 has screws under the bottom rubber feet, have to check those adhesives
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Sep 17, 2018 22:39
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Yeah, I’m used to screws under rubber. I just didn’t think to check under that sticker. There’s no wiggle on the switch itself, the solder points seem solid. Are there any other bits on the board I should look at? Otherwise I have to hope that scotch tape works better than the other stuff I’ve tried, and have a backup of buying new switches. And a new keycap puller while I’m at it. What’s the term to look for to specify switches that have a round stem going through the board and that are soldered in two places? I know there are different mounting types.
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Sep 17, 2018 23:37
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Yeah, I’m used to screws under rubber. I just didn’t think to check under that sticker. Plate mount. The one with 2 additional legs is PCB mount.
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Sep 17, 2018 23:41
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Yeah, I’m used to screws under rubber. I just didn’t think to check under that sticker. Sometimes you can have a bad switch that needs to be replaced, but often it's just some crap that gets into the switch where the contacts are. I've used Deoxit contact cleaner in a lot of different mechanical switches (and also in battery boxes in various electronics and stuff) to clean up contacts pretty often. You can also disassemble it and try some high % rubbing alcohol but try to use a cloth or paper product that won't leave lint or anything inside the switch. Cotton swabs tend to shred easily if they catch anything and can leave some strands of fuzz in things. I think one keyboard fixing article suggested getting a straw of alcohol and releasing it into the switch to try to clean it. Tap the switch a lot to try to work it clean after applying whatever.
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Sep 18, 2018 00:26
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