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Chimp_On_Stilts
Aug 31, 2004
Holy Hell.
Has anyone here tried a Corsair K63 keyboard? They just announced a wireless version which I am considering purchasing.

See it here: http://www.corsair.com/en-us/k63-wireless-mechanical-gaming-keyboard-blue-led-cherry-mx-red-eu

Reading the description I can't tell if it has linear keys or tactile keys. It says "Cherry MX", but should I expect it to specify if they're tactile or not? I prefer tactile keys.

Sorry if the answer is obvious, I have no experience shopping for mechanical keyboards. I stumbled into using one over the holidays and liked it so much that now I want to join the club.

(And if anyone has suggestions for other wireless mechanical backlit keyboards, I'm all ears.)

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Chimp_On_Stilts
Aug 31, 2004
Holy Hell.
I bought a Corsair K63 Wireless and I think it's great.

I'd like to try clicky switches on it, but I've never swapped out switches before (this is my first mechanical keyboard). The existing switches are Cherry MX Reds and I gather I should be able to simply remove and replace them -- but, each switch has an LED in it (poking through it?). Does this change what I should buy?

These replacement switches don't visually look like they'd be compatible with the lights, but maybe I am wrong.

Chimp_On_Stilts
Aug 31, 2004
Holy Hell.

Constellation I posted:

It won't be an easy swap. You'd have to desolder all the LEDs first (if they're the ones that stick through and not just surface-mount ones on the PCB) THEN desolder the current switches. Then you have to solder your new switches in and solder the LEDs back on and hope you didn't mess up the LED contacts on the PCB which can be fragile.

Unfortunately, if you wanted a board to try out switches, you should've gotten the Glorious Modular keyboard or a K-Type. Or get a cheaper mech keyboard with no LEDs to have less things to desolder (like the Reddragon Mara that mewse has)

Oh. I thought the keyboard would be modular, but clearly not. Oh well, I like it fine as it is anyway.

Chimp_On_Stilts
Aug 31, 2004
Holy Hell.
I got the GMMK Pro. Ordered back in December and only arrived about a week ago.

Along with it I bought Kailh White switches and Glorious' White Aura keycaps.

... I think I regret the white caps. It's just *too* bright. I may swap them for black, which hopefully will look nice / not goofy with the white (silver, really) GMMK Pro.

Anyone want to recommend some caps to darken this thing a bit? Ideally some that will look nice with the white model board?

Chimp_On_Stilts
Aug 31, 2004
Holy Hell.
I have a GMMK Pro and I like it.

Was fiddling with the Glorious Core software today and I can't figure out what the "Sync across keyboard" toggle does. Anyone know?

Chimp_On_Stilts
Aug 31, 2004
Holy Hell.
Had a family member visit recently and try my mechanical keyboard (GMMK Pro + Kailh Box White switches) an he liked it a whole lot. I don't think he's ever used a keyboard that wasn't the default one included with the machine before.

He's an accountant, so he's trained to use a calculator with his left hand while writing with his right. So he wants a keyboard with the numpad on the left side.

So now I am trying to find a keyboard with clicky switches and a left handed numpad but it's proving difficult to find. Anyone have recommendations?

Ideally it'd be a prebuilt, but I can build him one if I need to.

The best I've found so far is this Epomaker GK96LS, but it doesn't have traditional arrow keys. I assume you'd have to hold down FN and press "?", Command, Option, and Control on the right side to access arrows. Would be better if it had traditional arrow keys, I want the keyboard to have a zero learning curve.

Chimp_On_Stilts
Aug 31, 2004
Holy Hell.

Gwaihir posted:

Easiest is probably simply a TKL board+ standalone numpad that can be positioned anywhere.

Yeah, you're probably right. I've tried to find some sold as a set (so they match) but have come up empty. I guess he'll have to deal with the two boards not exactly matching.

Chimp_On_Stilts
Aug 31, 2004
Holy Hell.

Wizard of the Deep posted:

I've got an Mountain Everest Max prebuilt that I'm mostly happy with. Biggest downsides are 3-pin and north-facing LEDs. Stock switch selection is somewhat limited. The software isn't GREAT, but it's not actively bad, either. Numpad comfortably goes on either side, or tucks under the monitor when I don't need it.

The board itself is solid, with very little flexing. Looks like most options are in stock and ready to ship.

Ooooo, this may be the ticket. Frankly the ad copy for the kb looks nice enough that I may get myself one.

When the numpad is attached, does it rock / wiggle when typing on it? The connection looks like it's just a USB-C connector and some magnets so maybe it's a little loose? But maybe not, I've never touched one of these.

It also has a bit of a gamer aesthetic which I don't mind, but the family member I'm buying for is absolutely not a gamer and probably would prefer the keyboard to just look like bog standard office equipment. This probably isn't a dealbreaker, I'll ask him.


Separate question while I'm posting in the keyboard thread:

I have a GMMK Pro with Kailh Box White switches. Two of the switches were not performing well, I had to hit those keys incredibly hard (like, slamming the keyboard) to get the keys to send a signal. I swapped them for other switches and now they work fine. Before swapping, I'd say they failed on ~80% of keypresses.

Now I am noticing a third key which is also failing to send a signal some of the time, but only on I'd guess about 1 in 10 presses.

Is it normal to order a pack of switches and get a few bad ones? This seems like a high failure rate.

I disassembled one of the two failing switches and couldn't see anything obviously wrong with the mechanism internally. I might fiddle with it to see if I can get it to be reliable before just tossing it.

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Chimp_On_Stilts
Aug 31, 2004
Holy Hell.

Gearman posted:

Might be a dumb question, but were any of the pins bent on the switches when you took them out? That's typical behavior of switches that have a bent pin. They could also have just not been seated in the plate and PCB all the way, but my first thought is that one of the pins was bent.

No, the pins weren't clearly bent. I will try reseating them to see if they were just inserted poorly before.

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