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It's been a coon's age since I had a proper car thread, because it's been over 10 years since I had a project car or anything worth talking about vehicle-wise. Previous threads, to refresh people's memories (or build them for new people): 2004-2006: Many Many Rabbits, very little experience or success: So many cringe-worthy posts http://www.sharkytm.com/files/showthread.php.html http://www.sharkytm.com/files/showthread2.php.html http://www.sharkytm.com/files/showthread3.php.html http://www.sharkytm.com/files/showthread4.php.html I ended up selling the white GTI with a running 16v motor and half-built interior for $800, along with a truckload of parts. I never drove it on the road, because I was too broke to pay for registration/tags and too much of a chicken to just run it with my tags in MA (which actually would have been semi-legal). I sold all the parts cars for parts, and crushed the shells. INTERNETRACECAR came to my new house in, oh, '09 or so and I sold/gave him the rest of my VW parts. I've still got a GTI grille over my garage door, but I think that's it. 2006-2008: The DREG (De-Riced EG): https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2053155 (the pictures are still up, but don't show for me for whatever reason) I ran this car for about 3 months, did a bunch of tuning, and it ended up being very quick. The crowning achievement was going to a local car show, pulling in and parking, and being asked if it had a Subaru boxer in it because it sounded like nothing I've heard. The combination of the exhaust/resonator, the very loud turbo, and an odd sounding idle, I guess. The car slowly sank into the ground at my new house for 5 years, and I finally sold it for $400 after stripping most of the easily-accessible stuff out. I never fit in the car that well, and it was too drat low, plus needed a full suspension refresh to be comfortable at all. It had also been hacked to bits for years, and boy did it show it in the wiring. I kept the Neuspeed wheel, shift knob, Innovate LC-1, ECU, and a few other parts. I still have Civic parts in boxes on my shelving, but they've been collecting dust for years. I need to just bite the bullet and toss them. Running: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7WxZO7irJ-8 I've used to have an odd job that used to have me traveling 180+ days/year, and now I run my own business and work out of my house with only the occasional trip to break things up. I've been through 3 trucks ('98 Ranger 4L 4x4, '04 Chevy 2500HD 6L, and now a 2015 GMC 2500HD Diesel), and zero cars (still rocking the Fit, almost 11 years old and only 88K miles). My wife still has the white Fit in the Civic pictures, now with 188K and rusty doors/quarters. I've moved 3 times since the 84 GTI, now own a house, got engaged, married, switched jobs like 10 times, started my own business, and now have a semi-boring suburban lifestyle where I complain about the guy down the street who had a VW Bug buggy when he rips past the house at 11PM. I just read through those old threads... so many familiar avatars that I haven't seen in years. So many conversations with friends who I still chat with, or came and went, or just straight-up disappeared. I  you guys. I'm a member of dozens of forums, and don't feel as close to any of the other groups as I do to you sick perverted bastards.----------------------- OK, enough emo TLDR. This is about new things, not reminiscing about the past. I'm bored of my Fit. It's reliable, spacious, gets great mileage, and never needs anything. BOOOOORING. The wife wants a new car, but wants to keep her Fit. We'll end up in a CR-V or a CX5. BOOOOORING. I could work on my new truck, but it's still under warranty for 3 years/80K miles, and anything Duramax is huge money. It also is registered to my business, has commercial tags, and isn't something I want to gently caress up. I've been looking for a project on and off for several years, but nothing concrete came up. Then I notice that my buddy Pipkin/Fart Pipe/shy boy from chess club is selling his 98 Jetta TDI. I've always liked the body style, it's black, it's diesel, it's loud, and it could be pretty quick with some tuning, and still return decent mileage. (https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3601249) He had done a bunch of work to it already, and it should be a reliable daily driver. No more non-running projects, at least not at the start. I drove down with my wife, she left in her Fit, and left me to buy the Jetta. 6 hours later: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L7DOSy4cCxg She's not a car person, doesn't understand why I did this, but still supports me and doesn't complain too much. There's a reason we've been together for almost 17 years (I'm 34), and I married her. Anyhow, the Jetta made it home, but I noticed that it was down on power the last half hour after stopping for dinner. No codes, it runs fine, but feels like a dead-stock MK3 TDI. I've got a VCDS coming to do datalogging and check the MAF sensor readings. I'm happy to be back in the car game after a long absence. Current plan: get it running right again, complete any remaining maintenance, clean the interior up a bit (new driver's side seat is high on that list), treat the minimal surface rust, and get it Fluid Film'd. If the clutch starts to go, I'll put in a South Bend Daily. Drive it for the winter, sell the Fit in the meantime. Come spring, I'll either go KO3/KO4 hybrid, which bolts right up, or do a GT2052 conversion. I've got a friend with a parts car of similar year/color, so I'm gonna head over there and start gathering interior parts. Ideally, I'm shooting for an OEM+ car that'll be fun to drive and reasonably powerful. Nothing crazy like the Civic, nothing as old as the Rabbits. Cost Spreadhseet: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1oTOo29NMMVUJ6adujdZrCGCZoaE6krjqNIyZQoLIGXU/ Picture: 
sharkytm fucked around with this message at 18:24 on Jan 1, 2018 |
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Dec 6, 2017 16:42
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Beverly Cleavage posted:Getting in on the ground floor of awesome. also God, looking back at the original GTI photos is such a mindfuck. I was 21 at the time. Nothing like a dose of reality to humble you.
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Dec 6, 2017 16:52
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CommieGIR posted:Hell yes, another TDI owner! Mk3 Even! InitialDave posted:Ah. IOwnCalculus posted:HTTP/HTTPS fuckery.
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Dec 6, 2017 20:04
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Wrar posted:Yay the TDI stays in the AI family! I agree. I think I'll source a stock grille though. Today, I glued the broken steering column clamshell, moved the Bluetooth mic, and figured out what's broken in the sunroof. I also ordered a new seat angle knob and an unbroken clamshell. My VCDS should be here tomorrow, so I can start making changes and reading data from the ECU. I think I need to drop the exhaust manifold to address the exhaust leak, and reinstall the EGT sensor.
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Dec 7, 2017 04:16
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My VCDS arrived, and I verified that the MAF is working fine. MAF specified and MAF actual were 825+ at WOT. I'm thinking the long trip on the highway blew out the exhaust gasket on one cylinder, or the turbo gasket. It'll give me a chance to clean up the turbo and assess the oil line situation, plus I can drill and tap the exhaust manifold to relocate the EGT sensor. I need to clean out the garage and dedicate a day or two to doing these fixes. I got the new vacuum line in as well, so I can replace the ones going to the wastegate and N75 valve. 
sharkytm fucked around with this message at 19:28 on Dec 10, 2017 |
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Dec 8, 2017 02:49
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I pulled the test pipe, intake manifold, turbo inlet pipe, and EGR block off today to check for leaks and tighten some stuff. The turbo inlet pipe was hitting the pd150 intake, but wasn't leaking. I ground off the threaded boss that was hitting. The EGR looked fine, but I replaced the gasket anyhow. I checked all the exhaust manifold bolts, but they all seemed tight. Still can't find the exhaust leak, so I'm guessing it's from the bottom of the manifold or the turbo itself. I replaced the intake tube with the 2"->2.25" silicone 45° bend that came today, too. I'm starting to come down with a cold or something, so I'll probably take the weekend off.
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Dec 9, 2017 02:11
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Progress from yesterday: The light bulbs for the HVAC controls arrived, so I pulled the center console apart and replaced the bulb. It'll be nice to not have to remember which position is what when I'm driving at night. Also, that Jensen stereo has a TON of wires hanging down behind it, and they're kind of in the way of some planned additional gauges. I'll either trim them, or swap the stereo for something else. I would like to upgrade the speakers, that's for sure. Pipkin had given me a spare exhaust manifold, but there was an EGR stud broken off, and he had cut off the heatshield studs. I've got an intact heat shield on the car, and I'd like to retain it, so the studs needed to go. Out came the smoke wrench, Kroil, and the Vise Grips. 30 minutes later, all 4 studs were out, no damage done. I don't use my torch very often, but it's incredibly useful for this sort of stuff. It would have been a couple of hours with propane to get things hot enough.   I also got an uncracked MK3 tilt wheel clamshell for $30 from the Vortex, which arrived today, well packed and intact. I'll install it once either my current one cracks again, or I decide that I'm done monkeying around with the steering column. The boost gauge blocks some of the warning lights, so I may relocate it, and it'll be nice to have an undrilled clamshell if I need it. Engine bay shot as of today, now with T-bolts on the silicone coupler, and added hose clamps on the crankcase vent hoses to prevent oil from pooling on top of the valve cover. I did notice soot around injector #3, which may be where the "exhaust" leak is coming from. I'll order some new copper crush washer seals and try to re-seal it.    :edit: Video of injector leak... it's BIG. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mqObO4O7ArM sharkytm fucked around with this message at 19:55 on Dec 10, 2017 |
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Dec 10, 2017 18:57
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I put a socket on the retainer yoke, and it was just above finger tight. Torqued it to 20Nm, and it's 99% sealed. Just a few bubbles around the base of the injector now. The car's much quieter, turns out it was a compression leak, not an exhaust leak. It's gained some power, but still down compared to when I drove it in CT... Doing VCDS logging now. Still no smoke at WOT either... Hmm.
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Dec 10, 2017 21:32
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I'll replace the washer, never had any luck reusing them. I've got a running list of parts at IDParts that I'll order at some point. Datalogs: Injector Balance is fine.  Injection Timing is still good.  MAF functional.  MAP/Boost sensor, and N75 frequency duty cycle.  First, Second, Third, paused, long third gear rip. I don't see anything hugely wrong here. I'm surprised that it's not throwing a ton of smoke. It's very clean, which I don't mind, but something still doesn't add up. it's showing 2260 mbar, minus 1000 for atmospheric, which is 18# in 3rd gear. :edit: Reading on TDIClub, it looks like the RC3 tune should be 18.5#, and I'm not far off. Still, I swear this was faster in CT. sharkytm fucked around with this message at 00:59 on Dec 11, 2017 |
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Dec 11, 2017 00:01
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Cop Porn Popper posted:Uh... Odd question, but whats your name on snapchat? I think I may have the wrong sharkytm on there. Umm, sharkytm. I'm never on, actually just opened it for the first time in probably three months. But no, I'm white, in MA. Good on you for chatting with a cool rando.
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Dec 11, 2017 06:20
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Dude, there's no leak anymore. It's all quiet on the Eastern front. I'm sure the injector must have loosened up on the long highway run, it wasn't anywhere near that bad when I drove it at your place, and the lack of power was really obvious. I also learned that there's no turbo gasket when I tried to buy one. I'm still not sure if there's anything wrong anymore, it's making the boost level that it's supposed to according to rocket chip, but I remember seeing 20# on the gauge at your place. It still falls on it's face at like 3000 RPM, but I need to figure out what's causing that. I stuck a piece of cotton in the boat gauge line and now it doesn't buzz, success! The sunroof seal leaks slightly, so I need to either replace it or add some vinyl tape around the sunroof edge. I'm also in search of a driver's side seat bottom that isn't collapsed, like every other MK3 owner. I'm going to check the IQ tonight, might bump it a bit. sharkytm fucked around with this message at 00:13 on Dec 12, 2017 |
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Dec 11, 2017 22:02
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shy boy from chess club posted:Yea I'm pretty sure it was 20# of boost but it's there for such a short amount of time. I never did any like long highway pulls in higher gears so 18 might be right. There's an arm that's broken on the slider. The leak is from the seal, not the drains. You can see daylight around the seal, just barely. Results of tonight's runs: There's definitely a fuel problem. The following graphs are of Measuring Block 015. RPM in Red (0-5000 scale) Actual injection quantity in green (0-40 scale) Requested injection quantity in grey (0-80 scale) VCDS Chart:  Excel chart of the datalog:  So yeah... no wonder the car falls on it's face, the fuel can't keep up with demand. It's requesting 51mg/stroke, and maxes out at 23 right when you stomp the throttle, and slowly drops off. Leak, air in the fuel, clogged pickup, or a bad pump?
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Dec 12, 2017 00:33
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Larrymer posted:
shy boy from chess club posted:I wonder if resealing the pump would make a difference. Maybe that external leak becomes an air leak into the pump under high demand for fuel. The pickup should be easy to check, there is an access panel to the tank in the trunk right behind the back seat. I wish I could get video of the fuel return line during a WOT run, that'd tell me if there's air in the lines. I'd imagine that I'd hear it, but who knows. I forget, did you hammer mod this pump? I know you tried it on the old one to no avail. I'm not particularly worried about an injector or nozzle being at fault, because the balance numbers look similar across all 4.
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Dec 12, 2017 02:47
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This was right after I signed up and was too scared to post because I thought I would get banned for everything. 
meant a lot more back then.
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Ferremit posted:I’ve had an external fuel leak on a Toyota 80 series injector pump turn into an air leak under high load before, was a bastard to find cos it wouldn’t pull air at idle. Ended up having to duct tape a torch and a GoPro under the bonnet pointed at the pump and go for a drive  I'm not far from doing the same thing. There's barely an external fuel leak, but Pipkin gave me the full seal kit. shy boy from chess club posted:Yea I hammer modded it when I put the nozzles in.
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Dec 12, 2017 04:25
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Made a TDIClub post: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=484527 We'll see what comes of that.
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Dec 12, 2017 15:44
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CommieGIR posted:You know what's coming. Laundry list of stuff to check. Not a problem, I'll go through it. sharkytm fucked around with this message at 17:21 on Dec 12, 2017 |
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Dec 12, 2017 17:07
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Figured out the issue. I filled the tank with fuel, and it's like a rocket ship! Lit the tires up in 1st through 3rd leaving the fuel station. Must be a cracked pickup or line in the tank. Success!
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Dec 12, 2017 20:58
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IOwnCalculus posted:I'd say pulling the pickup sounds hard, but keeping the tank full is easy! Actually, VW is smart like Honda. The pickup is easily accessed through a hatch under the rear seat. That said, I'm not going to do it. The car's going into the shop to have the injectors pop tested and balanced professionally, the pickup/pump pulled and either repaired or replaced, and checked out for other issues. I like doing the troubleshooting and diagnostics, but the dirty work is best left to the professionals. I'd also like to start a relationship with the local TDI mechanic, who has an excellent reputation. Since I'm planning on doing some major work at some point, it'll be good to have someone who knows the car who can do some of the lovely parts (like swapping the clutch).
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Dec 13, 2017 04:59
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Dum dum da dum  loving rodents.
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Dec 13, 2017 20:52
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Dude, it's freezing cold and I don't really want to spill diesel everywhere. This may wait for Chris. :edit: gently caress it. Pulled the pickup. It's an odd design, with a spring-loaded feed line. I'll bet whatever seal is in between the fixed metal tube and the sliding plastic part is leaking.   I'll see about buying a new sending unit. Most places don't list it as available, so it may be a used part. sharkytm fucked around with this message at 22:02 on Dec 13, 2017 |
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Dec 13, 2017 21:15
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Jesus gently caress, it's cold.  Anyhow, against my better judgement, I figured out that you can pry open those 2 tabs, and let the spring push the 2 parts apart. The wires, however, are too short. Snip snip, and not across from one another. There's an O-ring, sorry no before photos, but I was covered in diesel.  The O-ring had a ton of crud on it, but looked intact, with no cracks. I cleaned it up, cleaned out the pickup, and reassembled, soldering the wires and heatshrinking them. Diesel! I'd never do that on a gas car in a million years.  Nothing to do now but drive it and burn off the fuel, and see if it falls apart after I'm below 1/2 tank. Fingers crossed... If this fixes it, I'll put a new sending unit in. There's one on TDIClub for like $55 shipped, bought in 2012. Far newer than this cock-a-roach.
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Dec 13, 2017 23:00
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New fuel sending unit purchased. I drilled and tapped the spare exhaust manifold for an EGT sensor, but not I'm not sure if I'll use it for EGT or EMP. I may tap another hole for the EGT.  The sensor location isn't perfect, but it doesn't touch the far wall, and should be fine. I was aiming for more centered on the turbo outlet like StealthTDI (http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.php?p=2475599&postcount=6) , but it's tough drilling on a curved surface. Nonetheless, it took the threads nicely. Also, insurance is starting on Monday, and I'll go get legit plates for it on Monday or Tuesday. We've had snow the past few days, so I haven't been working on it or been able to run it over to the mechanic for Fluid Film and a checkout. List of To do's: Immediate Swap to winter wheels/tires Fluid Film undercarriage Replace fuel sending unit, hopefully that takes care of the air issue. Turn the fuel down a bit, it leaves a bit more smoke than I'd like. Rebuild shifter completely. It's got 2" of side-side slop in gear, and an inch front-back slop. New bushings, new shift bracket on the tranny, and probably new bushings in the cable ends. Fix interior lights (rear overhead lights and trunk light non-op) New driver's door switch (current switch non-op, which means the car doesn't play the Mexican hat dance if I leave the lights on and open the door) New Driver's seat, or swap bottoms with the passenger's seat. New trim piece under passenger's seat, current one is broken and flops around. Fix/replace sticking passenger's side door handle (or fix the vacuum lock actuator) Soon Replace speakers, especially rears which are super weak. Swap exhaust manifold to drilled/tapped one. Install EGT probe so the readings mean something. Install my ScanGauge somewhere visible, probably down in front of the cupholders. Combo of 3D Printed/Kydex thermoform parts, more than likely. Clutch- South Bend Daily kit Smoked sidemarkers Install fog lights and wire Euroswitch for both forward fog and rear fog operation New tires/wheels. The current Kosei's are fine, but the tires are nothing great, and low on tread. Unsure on wheel type, any suggestions? Probably looking for something dark, and suitable late '90s/early '00s. I've got snowflakes, but they're only 14's, I'm thinking 15 or 16 would look better. New seats/interior bits. The upholstery is pretty worn, with some paint on the rear seats. I'd love to find a K2 or Trek edition in the JY and strip the entire interior, but those days are long past. Possible Relocate radio to lower console, install gauges in radio spot. OR Build dual gauge pod into upper corners of cluster surround. http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4922015-DIY-ABS-Pipe-Gauge-Pods OR find another spot for gauges... I'm not a fan of the center clamshell location because it blocks all the warning lights MK3.5 Cabrio dash/wheel OR at least upper glovebox in place of airbag Smoked E-Codes
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Dec 17, 2017 05:31
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shy boy from chess club posted:I'm surprised you don't like the speakers I mean they aren't great but for stock I thought they weren't too bad. Heads up the left rear speaker wiring is shorted somewhere. I de-pinned the harness from that one because it would short out the amp. It's not the speaker itself because it does it with it disconnected. That'd explain the lack of rear left speaker. I tired plugging in the plugs by the speaker, but it didn't seem to help. They're fine, but a little more bass would be nice. Oh, I know all about hacking in ECodes. If I did it, it's be with a full Euro bumper support swap. I swapped the grille for a stock one today and put about 100 miles on the car. It still hauls rear end, and I'm closing in on half a tank of fuel, so hopefully the sending unit fix worked. I visited a bunch of VW friends and they were impressed with the condition and power that the car has, which made me really happy. Then the passenger side door latch failed and my buddy was stuck inside until he climbed over the center console. LOL, VWs.
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Dec 18, 2017 05:19
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Plates, registration, and title acquired! I just need an inspection and I'll be legal.
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Dec 18, 2017 22:53
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shy boy from chess club posted:Airbag light still good? If they don't notice the cat you should be golden. That's so weird you get plates and everything before inspection. Back when we had it in CT cars would have to pass inspection before you got plates and registration. Yup, airbag light is still good. Yeah, MA is weird. What's the consensus on Mini Copper 7 hole phone dial wheels? 15", and reasonably cheap. I'd like 16s, but 15 is cheaper for tires. : Edit: too narrow, only 15x5.5. I'm thinking 15x6.5 or 16x7 now. sharkytm fucked around with this message at 14:29 on Dec 19, 2017 |
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Dec 19, 2017 00:05
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Dropped the car with the mechanic for a new power steering line and to have it Fluid Film'd. He's going to check things over, and let me know if there are other things that need to be addressed. I need to provide him with a list of stuff to do, and we'll pick and choose as I have money, and he has availability. The clutch is climbing the list, but I'm hoping to limp through the winter with it as-is. Good news, I did a bunch more driving, and I'm now at 1/2 tank on the nose, and it still pulls like mad. Of course, the new sending unit arrived today, and I don't think I need it. Into a labeled box it goes, as it's NLA from VW.
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Dec 20, 2017 02:46
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^^^ Posted as you were typing...It's at Schnell right now Current list for the mechanic: Fluid Film, straighten pinch welds while it's on the lift, POR15 any rust prior to FF'ing the chassis Power Steering leak/line Pass. front door handle Engine cover for inspection Clean/check injector 3 for leaks, and if found, pull and re-seal Rebuild shifter, or swap to an 02J shift setup from a MK4, install a short shift kit in either case Check IQ and adjust to reduce smoke under load if feasible Adjust exhaust over rear beam. With 2 people in the back, it vibrates at idle. If he's got a good rain tray set, swap that in for my cracked one. Getting quotes on: 1. New SouthBend Daily clutch kit install 2. Rear main seal install, axle flange seal install 3. Pull the existing exhaust manifold and swap with my spare unit with a tapped hole for a functional EGT sensor. 4. Pull all 4 injectors and getting them pop tested/flow tested. 5. The F-it upgrade: GT2052, manifold adapter, downpipe mods, and an 11mm pump. This may require new boost piping, and may necessitate a larger IC, potentially a FMIC. We'll see about that one.
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Dec 20, 2017 04:46
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Heard from the mechanic today. $900 in work including a bunch of work on the floors which had more rust than expected under the undercoat, and not including the shifter rebuild. New alternator pulley clutch, new rain tray, fixed the exhaust, fixed the power steering leak, and fully fluid filmed the undercarriage. I'll tackle the shifter myself. I should have it back tomorrow night.
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Dec 27, 2017 01:35
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I'm heading out today or tomorrow to buy a set of MK4 Wolfsburg seats. I don't know about the rears, but the fronts can be retrofitted. $100...
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Dec 27, 2017 18:50
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I haven't rebuilt the shifter, he suggested swapping to an o2j shift tower and cables. That's my plan for the winter, sourcing one from a jy or the vortex.
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Dec 28, 2017 01:00
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It's amusing that he sent you the pictures, but not me. He turned down the fuel a bit too, should stretch the clutch a bit longer. I'll probably pull one from the JY if I can't get one cheap.
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Dec 28, 2017 03:22
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shy boy from chess club posted:Yea I kept meaning to turn the fuel down, I had the IQ way up and it was causing some slow down shudder so that should have gone away too. After getting the tune initially I never really got on it anymore so the clutch wouldnt slip anyway. Yup, it's outside. It fired up fine today at 10°F. Just let the glow plugs run until the light goes off, crank it over. The fuel being turned down helps with the shudder, but it'll still spin the clutch in 5th. The shift linkage sucks, I couldn't get 5th today until things warmed up. 02J shifter needs to happen ASAP. I picked up the MK4 Wolfsburg seats today. The driver's side isn't great, the hip bolster is worn, but the thigh bolster is collapsed. Still, $100. The guy I got them from is a fellow TDI dude too. I'll start working out how I want to modify them to fit, and what I want to do with the driver's side seat. Also need to figure out if I want to hack my current seats and weld to the mk4 seat, or hack my seat rails and weld on the car. He also adjusted the exhaust so it doesn't hit the rear beam. It only hit with a couple people in the back. He fixed a couple exhaust leaks too, so it's quieter and you smell less exhaust. However, it now stinks of FluidFilm. That's not even the worst of the rust, the rear floor corner had perforations.
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Dec 29, 2017 02:18
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I stripped the driver's side Wolfsburg seat tonight, the foam was hosed on the thigh bolster. I removed the airbag and seat back foam as well. I'm gonna try to source some foam from another seat to do the repairs. Anyone want to see the progress/laugh at me as I try?
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Dec 29, 2017 08:00
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Alright. I'll document the best I can. Coming up on 500 miles on the current tank of fuel, still got 1/4 left. No complaints there.
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Dec 29, 2017 15:49
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Background posts on foam repair: http://crxcommunity.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=29734 https://www.s2ki.com/forums/uk-ireland-s2000-community-25/repairing-driver-s-seat-bolster-850923/ https://www.scribd.com/document/31093520/Acura-DA-Seat-Foam-Repair1 <- I like his sleeve over the repaired foam, which should help keep it's shape. I may also add some support material on the outboard side of the thigh bolsters to help them retain their shape with my fat legs. http://forum.mazda6club.com/interior-modifications/212066-repairing-broken-seat-bolster.html Imgur is broken currently, but I've got some pictures to upload at some point Pictures of last night's progress, done while watching Shameless with my wife, in the living room, in front of a nice warm wood stove... the good life.  Other seat, but same view.   Ruined base foam  Damaged upper foam  Damaged upper cover  Airbag hole in upper  Removed airbag module  Bare seat MK4 frame Remove base trim, remove height lever (2 screws under covers), remove angle knob (tabs inside knob, use angled pick to open them up), Seat lower is only retained by the strip around the base, normally tucked into the stop the trim goes into. Upper seat is retained with mating plastic strips at the bottom. There are battens inside each cover that secure them to the frame and springs, you just have to work them off, and undo the springs with a curved pick. The covers come off relatively easily, just be careful of tearing the foam more than it's already torn. Part numbers confirm that the seat bottom foam is the same between L&R. Only differences are the side airbag cutouts on the seatback. The airbag patch on the seats is just sewn, and I'll try to seam-rip it off. Planning on swapping both parts side to side, so the repairs will be toward the center of the car, and should see less abuse. The current plan is to either find a junk seat from a parts car and harvest foam from it, or butcher one of the MK3 rears for foam.  I then modified the wheels and removed the wheelie bars from the MK4 passenger's seat, plus cut down the teardrop bolt for the seatbelt, which makes it fit into the MK3 tracks. The slide mechanism is the next huge hurdle. Do I cut the MK3 mount off and weld in a MK4 mount, make my own bracket and weld/bolt that in, or do I make an adapter plate like golf>jetta did on the Vortex? Seen here: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?7115446-MK4-Seats-in-a-MK3/page2 sharkytm fucked around with this message at 19:40 on Dec 31, 2017 |
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Dec 29, 2017 23:17
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The EGR is long gone. If I have to put it on for inspection, I will. I've got the parts, but never plan on reinstalling. I've got some Civic parts, shoot me an email; username at Gmail.
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Dec 30, 2017 11:27
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Pictures up. It's loving freezing here, which make spraying adhesive for the seats kind of a non-starter. I'm warming up the garage so I can start work there. I'm using stretchy fabric over the existing foam to help hold it together where it's not split, and adding foam and then covering it where it is split.
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Dec 31, 2017 19:42
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The MK3 Slider sucks, the MK4 is much nicer. I've got a plan. I'm going to move the bracket back and bolt it below the mk3 slider. It'll be a bunch of custom metal work and it may not work, but it's worth a shot. I'll put up pictures, but the wife and I repaired the really bad seat bottom foam today and got it installed on the frame. Upper foam is next, I should have a complete passengers seat by tonight. sharkytm fucked around with this message at 18:02 on Jan 1, 2018 |
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Jan 1, 2018 00:32
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Picture dump. No one documents this sort of stuff. I guess interior shops don't want to give away the secrets, and people who DIY aren't keen on photos, ersumpthin. Foam cut to fit airbag cutout  Foam sculpted, plus seat lever for 2-dr models filled   Seat bottom repair (I glued new foam into the missing areas, and the split foam back together with Scotch 77 spray adhesive)  Seat bottom reinstalled (bonuscat)   Upper foam glued and reinforced with fabric  Installed  Cat-tax, happened about 20 seconds after we were done What I've done is rebuild and reinforce the driver's side old foam both upper and lower, and install it on the passenger's side seat frame. The damaged bolster cover is now on the inside of the seat, and there's no airbag to potentially go off. The airbag hole has been filled with foam. The airbag leather patches have also been seam-ripped off. The fabric that we used is a 2-way stretch, so it doesn't make the bolsters too much harder, just stiffens the surface of the foam and distributes the load so the foam doesn't split anymore. The current plan is to thoroughly clean the inside of the car, since it has zero seats in it, then reinstall the old beat MK3 driver's seat so I can drive it again. I'll work up a bracket for the MK4 seat on the passenger's side, and test fit everything there. If it's good, I'll make one for the driver's side. The rears should be pretty easy if I can get access to a MK4 JY car so I can cut the brackets out for the seatbacks, plus the pivot brackets for the seatbase. I can always throw in the old back seat if I need it for some reason. I may also machine some new wheels out of Acetal instead of using the MK4 wheels that I ground down, and some AL spacers to set the wheel-wheel distance correctly. All of that should firm up the mounting so it's better than the MK3 system, which uses nylon sliders and sloppy metalwork. sharkytm fucked around with this message at 20:53 on Jan 3, 2018 |
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Jan 1, 2018 18:19
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shy boy from chess club posted:Nice work. I'm always amazed at the upholstery work those guys do on the stupid car reality shows. Looks like black magic to me. Dude, Ish from WCC could have his own show. Interiors by Ish. He's on his own now, which is good. If anyone is a pro, I keep hearing about thehogring.com being a good forum, but it's private. You have to provide employment info to be a member.
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Jan 1, 2018 22:14
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