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Welp. 2013 CR-V, has had awesome air conditioning from new until today. Started short cycling and blowing warmish air. Downside is there's basically no DIY info specific to this model out there because they just aren't breaking yet, and I'm a cheap bastard who hates paying Honda $10 for one-day access to the factory service manual. There's not even an option to just buy the drat thing. Upside, if I do have to open the system, looks like Honda was nice enough to make the dryer serviceable.
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Apr 1, 2018 01:24
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| # ¿ Apr 25, 2024 07:57 |
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Terrible Robot posted:pay Pretty much what I did last night, yeah. At least they make it easy to print to PDF.
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Apr 1, 2018 16:48
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for the access, spend all day taking screenshots and saving them to a folder?
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IOwnCalculus posted:Pretty much what I did last night, yeah. At least they make it easy to print to PDF. It's already proved useful, at least. I thought it was short cycling, though my wife didn't seem to know what I was on about. Turns out the Honda system will still run without enough refrigerant in it to fill the evaporator. It will still have enough to cool the passenger side, but not the driver's side, resulting in a significant difference between the two. Now to see if I can find a reason for refrigerant loss in five years, though it's such a small full charge (less than a pound) that I think any loss would be bad.
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Apr 1, 2018 21:51
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Does anyone have a preferred set of R134a manifold gauges? I'm just going to buy my own, having to rent from Autozone gets old quick. I'd do a HF set but my dad had one of those and the knobs *and* hoses disintegrated after a few years. My 2013 CR-V is giving me intermittent warm air out of the driver's side, and extremely infrequent warm air out of the passenger side. According to the service manual it is possible for a low-on-refrigerant Honda system to do this, where the pressures are still high enough to not trip the cutoff switch, but there's insufficient liquid refrigerant reaching the evaporator to keep the whole thing cold. I haven't been able to get a set of gauges on it when it's actively exhibiting this behavior. I've done some visual inspections and have found nowhere that it appears a leak could be occurring. Obviously this doesn't rule out a leak somewhere in the interior or simply hiding where I haven't seen yet, but it seems odd that the system will sometimes perform perfectly normally for 30 miles at a time. Digging through the rest of the service manual it seems like the only other possible cause here would be the expansion valve. I think my next steps are going to be a full vacuum on the system to see if it leaks, followed by a recharge, and then maybe opening it up to swap the expansion valve?
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Apr 30, 2018 00:00
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IOwnCalculus posted:Digging through the rest of the service manual it seems like the only other possible cause here would be the expansion valve. I think my next steps are going to be a full vacuum on the system to see if it leaks, followed by a recharge, and then maybe opening it up to swap the expansion valve? Quoting myself to say I finally got around to pulling a vacuum on it and attempting a proper recharge. Now, even on a full charge, there's ~125psi high side and... vacuum on the low side. Stuck expansion valve it is!
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May 22, 2018 04:58
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Holy gently caress that job sucks. The car ate my one 10mm deep well, too. I think it's behind the blower assembly... which I can't remove without it. At least it makes cold air again.
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May 24, 2018 07:05
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I suspect I've lost others over the years, but I was honestly surprised I apparently only had the one. Worst part is, with some really minor tweaking, there's no loving reason the valve couldn't be mounted on the firewall side. It'd be a one hour job then because the only "problem" with access is that the firewall is actually a drat long way back from the front of the car, but there's nothing actually in the way.
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May 24, 2018 21:37
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If the blend door was the reason, you should be getting heat, not just not-cold air. Get some gauges on the system and start diagnosing.
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May 31, 2018 04:01
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Yeah my C10 is non parallel flow. And the bigger concern with air in the lines is the moisture content. Water reacts with the oils and becomes acidic.
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Jun 24, 2018 16:11
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How much of a pain in the dick is it to get at the compressor? Way I see it you've only really got two choices. Run it until it shits the bed and possibly end up cleaning out / replacing much of the A/C system due to contamination, or replace it proactively and just do a compressor swap / recharge. I'd give it a few weeks to see if it's changing at all or if it stays the same.
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Jun 28, 2018 03:59
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Even with chinesium equipment I can pull a full vacuum and have it stay exactly where it was for half an hour. Definite significant leak.
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Jun 29, 2018 14:20
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It's probably a shotgun parts kit.
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Jul 2, 2018 02:34
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Colostomy Bag posted:There is a brass fitting on top of the compressor fitting. I'm assuming it is a bleed fitting and not to worry about it, correct? Does it look something like this?  On my WJ, my understanding is it's basically a safety relief valve, so if poo poo goes way wrong it vents underhood instead of popping the evaporator or something.
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Jul 5, 2018 23:29
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Is it warmer on the driver's side than the passenger side? Get some gauges on both the low and high sides and see what's going on. Could be a stuck expansion valve, which is apparently not uncommon on Hondas.
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Jul 6, 2018 15:03
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alnilam posted:I don't think so, it was warm everywhere. You can rent gauges from most parts stores with a fully refundable deposit.
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Jul 6, 2018 17:19
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My CR-V with a similarly basic single zone system had the exact but opposite symptom. Passenger side cold, drivers side intermittently not. Dug through the Honda service manual and discovered that it is apparently possible for their systems (and presumably some but not all others) to have pressures high enough to not trip the pressure switches, but have insufficient refrigerant levels / flow to flood the whole evaporator core. In Honda's case, refrigerant enters the evaporator from the passenger side, so when this happens the refrigerant has all turned to gas before it gets all the way across the core - leading to inconsistent temperatures. In my case it was not a leak, but a flow restriction at the expansion valve. When I pulled a vacuum on it and recharged it, it went from an intermittent issue to a fully stuck shut valve (high pressure on high side, near vacuum on low side, and no cold air). Replaced the expansion valve, which loving SUCKED to do, recharged it, and it's worked great since.
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Aug 27, 2018 05:42
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If/when I ever come across another R12 system that hasn't been converted yet, I'd consider doing R152a (aka 'computer duster') instead of 134a. Supposedly performs much more like R12 in older systems.
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Oct 22, 2018 19:59
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If you're having a shop do it, they probably won't do R152a since it's actually a royal pain to buy that poo poo with the proper labeling as a refrigerant. You can buy it at retail in a computer duster can and vent it to atmosphere all you want to get rid of some dust, but if you put the exact same poo poo in a can and call it refrigerant suddenly the regulators get concerned about leaks.
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Oct 22, 2018 20:11
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| # ¿ Apr 25, 2024 07:57 |
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Sounds like the drive belt might be slipping sometimes when the compressor kicks on?
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Dec 2, 2018 21:14
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