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Fermented Tinal
Aug 25, 2005
PLEASE SHUT THE FUCK UP

tia




Hi guys! Did you know you just dial the last 3 digits of my license plate when you see me and help will be on the way?

I think it's time, why the gently caress not.

Long story short, as per my bitching all over the rest of this place:

I quit my job doing physical design (ic photomasks) and moved to the region I live in 7 years ago because my parents had bought a farm in the area and we had talked about starting a business making some kind of alcoholic beverage. They were planning on retiring up here as well. During the interim, I moved from said farm to a house in the nearest city, discovered I was somehow poor all of a sudden, and got a job in a print facility that I thought was going to be a temporary thing.

Here we are three and a half years after all of that, four after I bought the house. My parents are planning on selling their various properties in the area and move elsewhere and embrace retirement. This includes where I store and work on my vehicles, but that's beside the point. I am left wondering what the gently caress am I doing, having wasted my entire 20s being some introverted fuckstick letting his folks run the show. I took the voluntary summer layoff from work and it is imperative that I get the LC driving again. It is also imperative that I find new employment because I am killing myself working a dupont rotation for under $20/h trying to survive for a dream that fizzled years ago. I've to work like 17 shifts between now and August and I'm trying to make it so I don't have to work more than the first four before saying "see ya!"

I've dragged this poor thing along with me for the entire ride:



This all brings us to the Today, and the Now:



But picture fenders, and a cab tub that's recently been bolted down, there's a post in one of the chat threads, I forget which. I built up mounts out of shitloads of body fill:



I've set aside Mon-Weds of next week to knock out the fender alignment and start putting her back together. There is a hard time deadline now too, my folks are putting the place up for sale sometime in the next month and they want the truck out of the shop by June. Yesterday I cashed out a bitcoin and while I can think of oodles of ways to waste it, such as a sweet-looking rusty datsun 510 WAGON FOR $500 HOLY gently caress I WANT IT SO MUCH, but I'm going to use most of this to get the Versa saleable and the truck road legal.

For those not following until now, I have most of a fiberglass replacement cab for it and have spent literally years dragging my rear end about the swap.
My old thread here.

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gimpsuitjones
Mar 27, 2007

What are you lookin at...

Cool. Fix er up bud

Fermented Tinal
Aug 25, 2005
PLEASE SHUT THE FUCK UP

tia


^^^^ Wanna help me track down something? I'm looking for the soft top hoops for the cab. I've seen them for sale before, but I can't find them in NA at all beyond ancient mud and pirate threads.

So, one of my problems is I am terminally bad with money. I'm sure I could make zaurg look responsible in some ways, but that's not a thread I'm gonna post.

I ended up using most of the proceeds from the bitcoin today, to settle my property taxes, dog registrations, and water bill (city run utility) since that was due too. The property taxes are a huge thing for me, I was further behind on them than I thought because lol the current quarter just rolled. Setup autopay on a 10 month cycle because one of the main reasons I was behind was due to the quarterly billing and never really having enough money on hand when they'd roll. Getting out from under the quarterly cycle has been a huge goal for me for a long time because it's been utterly impossible for me to fully pay up which is required to change it. I've been behind since around the time I realized I needed a job after buying the house.

After all that, capital gains, and some misc poo poo to meet the minimum transaction number for some rewards thing I got with the account, I've got around $2500 left of the proceeds that are solidly in the "Automotive" category of my finances. Thanks to my recent enlightenment of ebay's -bs I have found shitloads of what I thought were unicorn-rare oem parts. Likely all from South America, but who gives a gently caress. Terrible Robot I think was joking about me one day driving a stolen LC through the jungle while being chased by the guerillas I'd stolen it from just to get the parts I want, and for some of this poo poo I quietly thought that was likely the only way to obtain them. Still fingers crossed on the troop-carrier hoops and jump seats for the bed, but unless anyone here happens to know some rebels running Bandeirante or Macho pickups, I'm not really sure I'll ever get those.

I need to be thinking about poo poo like door cards, dash poo poo, headliners, etc. The poo poo I'm gonna need to finish out the truck because if I'm gonna afford painting the drat thing I'm gonna have to sell the Versa and press it into service or sell another bitcoin and potentially deal with having both my 88 Pickup and the Cruiser sitting in my back yard instead of just the Pickup.

So without further "what the gently caress is Tinal posting" I present you with a cunundrum.

Do I go with an OEM-style dash:
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/TOYOTA-LAND...xJVX1ql&vxp=mtr

and

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Toyota-Land...kRVU-yX&vxp=mtr

Or do I go with something like this:
https://btbprod.com/product/dash-bo...nd-cruiser-btb/

The "lip" mentioned is a steel lip that the OEM dash slips onto, it runs the width of the dash. Mine was rotten and twisted iirc and mounting the dash box might ostensibly be easier (as well as far cheaper, the lower pads are optional with this setup). The mounting screws hold on the bottom really well, but the lip is necessary to keep it in place and I'd have to figure out a way to do that for the OEM dash.

I'm kinda lost because I do like the original dash a lot and you really don't see them complete here except on survivors.

Fermented Tinal
Aug 25, 2005
PLEASE SHUT THE FUCK UP

tia




Today was the big day to attempt dealing with a problem that came up the last time I was working on the truck.

The problem being that one of the fenders is half an inch longer than the other:
Pass side front:
Pass side back:

Drive side front:
Drive side back:

To try to bring the passenger side one back a little, some material was shaved off the front of the driver's side running board in an attempt to both close the gap a bit and get the fender to shift backwards.


Result was far from perfect, but that brown spot on the driver's side fender in the first picture is now hidden. Not ideal, and far from perfect, but it was either go this route or attempt to cut, shorten, and resculpt the fender. The majority of my alignment issues have stemmed from this fender being 1/2" longer than the other, though some of them also come from the frame rail being about 5/8" pushed in on that side (though the frame is square and okay on the critical measurements, go figure).

After that, it came time to start mounting the fender brackets, originally these were a bit longer and actually spot-welded to the original fender. Originally they would've looked more like this and less like in the following picture. To deal with the thickness of the fiberglass you have to cut them short and figure out some way to space them off the frame.


I got two 1/4" or so thick polyethylene cutting boards from a dollar store and made shims, four went on the passenger side, 5 on the driver side.


The scalloped portions from what originally would've been the handles on the cutting boards worked really nicely for clearing the bumpstops.


Bracket bolted in for the first time in 4+ years.


Almost as if I knew what I was doing too.


Next step is to drill through both of those holes in the bracket to bolt the fender to it. For now we're just using big fender washers and hex heads, but I don't want bolt heads sticking up out of my fenders in non-original places so I've got some bolts with machine screw heads that will eventually be countersunk and glassed over to encapsulate them inside the fender.

E: I also ordered a NOS diesel 40 series specific lock and ignition cylinder set. $150 price premium just for that GLOW position, but my locks and ignition cylinder are over 40 years old anyways... It's JUSTIFIED, okay!

Fermented Tinal fucked around with this message at Apr 9, 2018 around 23:12

Ferremit
Sep 14, 2007
if I haven't posted about MY LANDCRUISER yet, check my bullbars for kangaroo prints

But your not gonna need a glow position when you drop that direct injected 12HT motor into it

Fermented Tinal
Aug 25, 2005
PLEASE SHUT THE FUCK UP

tia


Ferremit posted:

But your not gonna need a glow position when you drop that direct injected 12HT motor into it

I signed up for Japan Car Direct and am trying to find a shitheap 70 with a running 1HD.

Fermented Tinal
Aug 25, 2005
PLEASE SHUT THE FUCK UP

tia


In keeping with the multi-posts, but also in keeping with my propensity for tangents. I present to you the following:

I decided to take the AM-only radio home to give it some TCL and get it demodulating some amplitudes. Also because it is in need of a good cleaning. Why am I doing this? Well, the slot in the dash isn't din-sized and this is too 80s: https://www.retromanufacturing.com/...ant=29743800067

So, here it is, partially disassembled, you'll have to dig in my old thread to see pictures of it assembled (or just Google FJ40 radio). The larger two nuts are 14.5 and the rounding is because I had to use a 15


Apparently somebody moved in at some point, I wonder how old that cobweb is.


It was manufactured by Matsushita (which I've been told is basically Panasonic), and I must say I am highly impressed with the build quality, especially since a lot of this radio looks hand-assembled.


The mechanical memory selector mechanism which I have yet to figure out.


When was the last time you saw a hand-populated and soldered board look this good?



Also, who's bright loving idea was it to weld in the mounting bracket for the wires, thus preventing further removal of the shell without in situ balls deep disassembly.


I'll get some other head unit or something and mount it under the driver's seat or on the ceiling of the cab for modern audio convenience. I'd like the radio sitting in the centre of the dash to work and look good, even if it is only AM. Guess I have to go balls deep, fire up the soldering iron!

gimpsuitjones
Mar 27, 2007

What are you lookin at...

Ferremit posted:

But your not gonna need a glow position when you drop that direct injected 12HT motor into it

Get out of my dreams

Yu-Gi-Ho!
May 12, 2006

STOP THE PIG
PUT A BULLET IN ITS HEAD




Fermented Tinal posted:

It was manufactured by Matsushita (which I've been told is basically Panasonic), and I must say I am highly impressed with the build quality, especially since a lot of this radio looks hand-assembled.

Correct. They officially changed their name to Panasonic in 2008, but prior to that, Matsushita was the parent company of Panasonic, Technics, Quasar, and some others I can't remember. They also now own Sanyo, and they've worked with Toshiba and JVC on various stuff in the past (Toshiba mostly on TVs, too lazy to read much further on what they did with JVC).

They've always made solid stuff, IMO.

Fermented Tinal
Aug 25, 2005
PLEASE SHUT THE FUCK UP

tia


I haven't finished cleaning up the radio yet because reasons but yeah, I see nothing that should prevent it from working when I finally do hook up a speaker and turn it on.

Right now I'm trying to figure out what to do about the truck's bed, because in its present condition it might present a problem when I do go to get the truck safetied. When I bought this truck, I knew I would be replacing significant amounts of the body, but my cursory inspection of the bed, and subsequent years of completely ignoring it in favour of working on the cab, made me originally think it wasn't really all that bad. The rules seem kinda vague about it, but the reality is the bed is at best, a hazard. I am 100% not worried about the frame of the truck itself in this area, and the four on-frame mount points are good.

Let's list of the parts that are in solid and good condition first. The headache rack and gussets, as featured in many pictures, probably the parts in the best shape, especially since it looks like the PO replaced the gussets at some point, they're essentially new. The next part that essentially just needs paint, is the driver's side bed side. It's not 100%, but close enough and is basically the largest piece of body steel on the truck that has survived the last four decades relatively unharmed.


There's four braces for the tray, two act as the four mounts. Front mounts themselves seem solid, but the brace is quite bowed. We'll get back to the tray which you can see part of the underside of.


That's it. That's all the good. Now for the bad.

The rear mounts and all braces are not happy. Three are bowed and rusty.



One is practically gone.


Now on to the tray, it is dished out heavily, but the main section and wheel wells do seem solid, it could potentially be salvagable but it needs new bracing and to get flattened out without destroying the ridges... As for rot, the four corner panels are all trash. Here's two as examples. I could probably just replace these outright with four flat panels welded in, the bolts serve no real purpose, there's nothing under the bed other than the rear driveline which is completely accessible from underneath without lifting the truck.



The tailgate is on life support. The main panel is trash, the latches are trash, and bottom of the frame is a lot less solid than it looks. At best I could save the top and side parts of the frame, and lose the TOYOTA. Below it is the valence, which is mangled.


Passenger side bed side probably last saw better days before my parents met. It's solid except for at the very back where the rust hole is. I, or a shop, could potentially get the wheel well in a presentable state as all the metal is there, just crunched. It will never be 100% again, but I'm okay with that because it's a large piece of original steel that I might be able to keep.



Remaining piece in poor condition is the front wall of the bed, it's not salvageable and I can't seem to find a decent picture of it. You can sorta see part of it in one of the tray corner pictures.

Basically it boils down to this. I can replace the bed in part or entirety. I have the money for it, that's not an issue, but that isn't to say I'm willing to just hand out $7k (CAD) plus freight from the US if there isn't a better way. At best I can save the rack, main tray, and two bed sides, but to even know if the main tray can be saved I'll likely have to get the bed sandblasted. Fabbing my own patch panels is out of the question, it's beyond my abilities, and having a local steel place fab them will run me about $80/h in labour alone. I could probably weld them in myself.

As for a complete replacement, I have my choice in three materials. One is fiberglass from the same guy who made the cab, and likely my cheapest choice overall at $4500 and no freight because he's local enough I can go pick it up. I will likely have to fabricate mounts and figure out how to bolt the hardware on, also I don't think he does tailgates but I could be wrong. The next is aluminium, orderable from one of a half dozenish places out of the US. Would have to replace the entire bed if going this route or with fiberglass. Tailgates and some misc bits are included, but I think some of the hardware might not be. The cost is around $6-8k plus freight from the States. Lead time is about two months BEFORE shipping. Finally we come full circle back to steel, potentially orderable from about the same number of places, roughly same cost, same lead time. I can source replacement panels from the same places, about $400 for the valence, $1100 for a tailgate, $2600 for a tray (can't get just the corner panels unless I find some guy on ebay selling salvaged ones for fuckyou pricing), and I'll need to beg for a front wall to even know what it costs as a panel because lol its not offered alone by anyone. The freight might be less due to not having a fully assembled bed if I go with panels. Same lead time, and I'd have to cut apart and weld together a bed afterwards, when I likely have no shop to work in anymore.

I need help, please help me AI.

E: Aqualu's pricing for Canadian customers has changed since last I looked: http://www.hardbody4x4.com/uploads/...ser_pricing.pdf

Fermented Tinal fucked around with this message at Apr 22, 2018 around 14:39

BitBasher
Jun 6, 2004

You've got to know the rules before you can break 'em. Otherwise, it's no fun.

What's your intended purpose for the bed? Do you intend to haul a load with it old school style? Is it just for appearances?

Also what is your climate? I know here in Vegas fiberglass tends to go to hell after a few years in the sun. I assume you aren't in the desert since you mentioned a farm and moving to a nearby city. That and you already went with a fiberglass cab apparently, but I thought it would be good to ask.

My situation was very different because I had a set of requirements a good deal outside of normal for what I wanted as the end result.

You need to make the choice of what will serve your needs versus the price you pay. Will the fiberglass meet your requirements for what you want to use it for? Are you sure about that? If so go with fiberglass. If not then then does the aluminum? Can you use a steel or aluminum tailgate on the fiberglass bed?

Welcome to cost/benefit analysis!

Fermented Tinal
Aug 25, 2005
PLEASE SHUT THE FUCK UP

tia


Intended purpose is to use it as a truck, it'll be my DD once completed. I told the guy from the body shop yesterday that I wasn't after a perfect restoration, but a solid and servicable bed that didn't look like poo poo. As for climate, I'm in Ontario, Canada, wet and rust is life.

The fiberglass is one I'm really unsure about, it'll probably be a lot of work and then who knows how well it'll hold up to full loads of crap even if I get it coated with bed liner.

Fermented Tinal fucked around with this message at Apr 22, 2018 around 16:37

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009

Ran when parked




At this point i would think the options are the aluminum bed or a bunch of sheet metal tools and a welder.

BitBasher
Jun 6, 2004

You've got to know the rules before you can break 'em. Otherwise, it's no fun.

Powershift posted:

At this point i would think the options are the aluminum bed or a bunch of sheet metal tools and a welder.

I pretty much agree with this.

Fermented Tinal
Aug 25, 2005
PLEASE SHUT THE FUCK UP

tia


Well, repairing the tray myself and making new braces would probably require a 8' long brake I don't own to run the tray through in the hope it flattens out a bit.

I guess I'm calling Aqualu tomorrow.

yaffle
Sep 15, 2002

Flapdoodle

When I lived in Costa Rica it was pretty common to see those with a whole new bed fabbed out of angle iron and wood, sometime quite nicely done.
This sort of thing:
http://www.buylandcruiser.com/2017/...tbed-truck.html

yaffle fucked around with this message at Apr 23, 2018 around 12:01

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Fermented Tinal
Aug 25, 2005
PLEASE SHUT THE FUCK UP

tia


Aluminium bed is on order, as well as a bunch of other stuff. I picked up the grille screen from the steel shop today and I'd say it's a real improvement and for the $100 it cost me I'm happy since this piece was not really replacable.


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