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You aren’t really into this for 70 are you omg
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Jun 20, 2018 05:13
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everdave posted:You aren’t really into this for 70 are you omg And here's the point where I mention my folks paid the bulk of the cost of the fiberglass. So no, everdave, I am not really into it for 70k personally, but that much has probably been spent on it since I acquired it. Keep in mind that's CAD and includes rough estimates polled from memory. Fiberglass for it ran about $20k total, mostly paid for by my folks, if I'm remember the cost of the tub right. The new bed was another $5700. Truck was $11,500. We're halfway there already and I haven't included the seat reupholstery, gauge cluster, every external light, new seatbelts, shop supplies (por15, grinding wheels, paint, literal shitloads of stainless steel metric bolts), etc, etc. Honestly, thinking about it, it might be closer to 60k than 70k but I'd have to tally things up to figure out the actual total and I ain't doing that. I don't have receipts for all the bolts and misc hardware and given how I spend about $100 every time I go to the industrial supply, that's probably over $1k. I've had this truck for 7 years now, I've had time to blow money on it.
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Jun 20, 2018 19:15
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Wow, impressive!
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Jun 20, 2018 20:09
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Fermented Tinal posted:And here's the point where I mention my folks paid the bulk of the cost of the fiberglass. I am keeping full totals for everything, and trust me when I say you may not be better off doing so!
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Jun 21, 2018 01:59
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BitBasher posted:I am keeping full totals for everything, and trust me when I say you may not be better off doing so! Never keep receipts for a project. Ever.
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Jun 21, 2018 02:45
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I'm just happy that I loving own a diesel 40 series land cruiser lwb pickup truck. Don't get me wrong, I like other trucks too, but 45s are the coolest and anyone who believes otherwise is delusional. I get that mine is far from original anymore, but I really don't care. I have a vin, a solid frame, and some cool stories to tell about its history. Like, the kick vents had 70s RCMP decals under the camo. I kinda wanna see if I can get ahold of anyone at the RCMP who'd be able to find out if there's any records from back then of it being a LEO vehicle. There's gotta be a faded and yellowed picture mouldering away somewhere of it from back then in cop livery. BitBasher posted:I am keeping full totals for everything, and trust me when I say you may not be better off doing so! We are kindred spirits in many ways regarding to the lengths we're willing to go for a vehicle we love, but not in this regard. The only running tally is in my head and it is subject to lots of weed smoke. Fermented Tinal fucked around with this message at 04:23 on Jun 21, 2018 |
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Jun 21, 2018 04:19
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Wasn't able to get any work done on the cruiser this weekend due to a combination of weather and disease. Was however, able to bring my Commodore 64 back from the dead.  Had to replace at least 6 of the ram chips, I ended up doing them all. 
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Jun 24, 2018 18:51
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I don't know what kind of paint Toyota uses, but some of it does not want to come off without a fight. Still, cleaning the frame yesterday and today has produced some results: Naturally, de-rustification will always turn up more places the steel's not happy. Found some holes in this brace, it's also bent a little. I need to blast out some more of the flaked rust and will probably patch this. Other side had some flaking, not nearly to the same degree. It's solid and cleaned up reasonably well and you can sorta see it in the first picture.  Now, welcome to basically the #1 rot-zone on just about every truck frame, where bed meets cab. Toyota didn't really do a good job with the design of this frame, the inner rails are C-shape channels that are rivetted in place and there are not many places for water in the frame to escape. Just about anywhere the outer and inner rails are pinched together by more than just the rivets, water gets trapped. For whatever reason the inner rail on mine took the brunt of the damage. This is the driver's side. Outer rail is good and solid, but the inner rail is quite thin on the bottom lip.  Passenger side, a good 8" of the lip was obliterated by a needle scaler. This is where the passenger side outer rail is the "worst," still no holes and solid enough that it took many whacks with a hammer remove the swelling caused by the rust.  Next weekend it looks like I am just going to end up boxing this part of the frame and removing a couple rivets to provide drainage holes. Wasn't really in the plan for now, but it'll be the best way to protect the outer rails from more damage until the day I do decide to fully box the frame. At least this poo poo is clean enough now that I can move onto rust protecting as soon as we finish up a little more of the cleaning and I weld on a couple more patches.
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Jul 3, 2018 00:28
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Still working away, due to unforseen complications with more than just a window regulator on the Versa I haven't gotten as much done the last two weekends as I would have liked, but I am happy to report there has been a lot of progress that I've been sharing mostly on slack. Anywho, some bigass 3/16" wall square tubing was cut up to make some frame patches/reinforcements.  My first attempt at the seam between the first patch, which turned out to be rather poorly welded on by your's truly, and the new one was similarly poorly done by my choice to go uphill rather than down.  The grinder was only too kind to reveal my failure.  Went downhill on the second try, mainly along the line in the above picture, I was leaning over the rail for it hence the extra bit at the bottom where I went too far over.  Looked a hell of a lot better than the first bead! Grinder revealed the other side was even more poorly done, somehow I had not managed to clean this up enough when I was welding the patch on while hunched over under the bed.  The original patches I'd put on the frame were "attached" (barely holding on, really) to the inner rails only. This changed and they are now welded to the outer rails, along with the new patches.  All done with this part of the frame for now.  Kinda overkill for the amount of missing material, but better too much than too little in this area. It could be decades before I poke around these rails again, need enough material to last that long. Now I bring your attention back to this picture from the last post. This is one of the two brackets that stiffen the frame directly above the rear spring hanger mounts. The other bracket was in a lot better shape than this one. They both came out anyways.   The side with the one big hole was the "good" side and the one with mutiple holes is what was behind the bracket in the picture. Suspecting that this is probably an important spot on the frame, that had to be fixed. The brackets won't be re-used, instead an additional plate will just be welded in to accomplish the same purpose and make it so there aren't 3 layers of metal here trapping water. The last two 5" cutting wheels we had on hand gave up their lives to cut this poo poo out.   The hangers are pretty rusty but still very solid, the frame too the brunt of the rust damage due to being three layers here. Not in the best of condition but the reality here is that when I have to redo the spring bushings at some point in the far future (thank gently caress someone else did them already), they'll just get tossed and replaced with mild steel ones that any purist will hate. One side is done, other side doesn't have the vertical plate yet.  Oh, also some por15 did happen, but just to the spare tire crossmember that is what slots in above the hangers. Don't have a picture of that now, but there's always next weekend. Fermented Tinal fucked around with this message at 04:34 on Jul 16, 2018 |
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Jul 16, 2018 04:31
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Did you know this is my fifth post in a row in this thread? Ya'll hate me that much, eh? Jerks. Have some more pictures. Where we left off last time involved some rusty brackets that were not going to be re-used, and the need for additional plates welded above the spring hanger to replace them. Dad did that while I was on my way over.  Looking at this picture I see my father opted to use the plate I was doing test welds on trying to figure out if uphill was going to work or not, I hope he ground it flat first, there were some big boogers on the other side of those heat marks.  Now you might notice that the rear shackles are off, I posted about this in the Importation thread because I'd moaned about how awful original bushings were to get out of rusty Toyota leaf springs and he's yet to have a problem with them on a JDM. Now let's look back at my old thread for a moment, page one in fact. Incoming textwall of complete and utter bullshit. quote:Safety Inspection: $80 Hmmmm... quote:Steering/Suspension - Install all new spring bushings, cut springs to fit There's 6 per corner, 12 rear, 12 up front. The 12 up front are definitely new and definitely polyurethane. Here's the original rear shackles, bolts, nuts, washers, and some dry-rotted rubber bushings that so tired they did not put up as much of a fight as my 1988 hilux's.  PO got scumbagged and here is more proof. Stay away from this place: http://www.napaautopro.com/auto-repair/ontario/thorndale-dave-versteegh-auto-repair-inc/ Mine is only one of many Land Cruisers that Dave has done this kind of poo poo to. Anyways, the chassis is looking a lot better now that there's some rust protection going on.  Not doing the ends of the axle, springs, or drum backing plates yet. I need to get a ubolt kit or at least a couple of plates to replace the ones that wrap around the top of the axle, the two that are on it are toast and I'll clean/rust protect the rest of the metal when I have the u-bolts off. Tomorrow some flat-black tremclad is gonna go over the Por-15. Got as far into the boxed areas of the frame as I could, I know I didn't get it all, but that's fine because this is not the last time this frame is gonna get touched, this is just to ensure it lasts long enough for me to get to a point in life where I can do a better job. Hoping to mount the bed next weekend.
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Jul 22, 2018 00:42
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Fermented Tinal posted:Did you know this is my fifth post in a row in this thread? Ya'll hate me that much, eh? I for one am really impressed by the repair work you're doing on this old truck, but don't have anything useful to add besides 
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Jul 22, 2018 01:26
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bennyfactor posted:I for one am really impressed by the repair work you're doing on this old truck, but don't have anything useful to add besides Honestly, the project's at a kinda boring part, I do get why nobody has much to add. People are waiting for the diesel sounds.
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Jul 22, 2018 01:33
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That looks like it should last you one hell of a long time.
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Jul 22, 2018 02:23
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Chassis looks better painted than rusty. Scary amounts of rust though as a non-salted-road person
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Jul 22, 2018 02:35
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gimpsuitjones posted:Chassis looks better painted than rusty. Scary amounts of rust though as a non-salted-road person I have and will continue to state that for its age and where it has lived, my frame is in amazingly great condition, even with the rot I've had to deal with. I wish I still had pictures of the frame of the other one I was looking at when I bought this one, it was swiss cheese front to back and bent up due to compromised structure. This is the level of rust I'd expect on a 15 year old vehicle, not a 42 year old one. My Hilux's frame is in worse shape.
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Jul 22, 2018 03:21
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Fermented Tinal posted:Did you know this is my fifth post in a row in this thread? Ya'll hate me that much, eh? It's the thread tag  Freshly painted parts make me happy.
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Jul 22, 2018 03:39
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So on Sunday The Beddening happened. I totally didn't have flashbacks to the cab being in the air and going sailing off the tractor forks.  Had to re-assemble with the old shackles and bushings, the new shackles are currently in the possession of the local UPS driver. Apparently FJ45s run larger shackles and bushings in the rear than FJ40s and guess which size bushings I bought. I double-checked my shackle order and by some miracle I bought FJ45 rear specific ones.  And it's on! Wooo!  9 out of 10 of the mounting holes were located so spot on it's basically aligned where it is. Unfortunately one of the mount holes is almost an inch over from where it needs to be and now I gotta figure out how to drill it out without needing to lift the bed up again. Until next time, folks, enjoy some random feral cat from two weekends ago, was hoping they'd still be around this past weekend, unfortunately it seems like she and her kittens have moved on, which is a shame because I was working out trying to find a rescue to take them. Oh well, maybe they'll come back, maybe they won't, ferals are fickle, sometimes they come back over the course of a month and end up housecats like my Egon, but sometimes they're just passing through. 
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Jul 31, 2018 12:34
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Looking good, but are my eyes tricking me or is the bed higher near the cab and lower in the back, looks like it has a bit of a backwards rake to it?
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Jul 31, 2018 13:42
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Bajaha posted:Looking good, but are my eyes tricking me or is the bed higher near the cab and lower in the back, looks like it has a bit of a backwards rake to it? Maybe not bolted down.
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Jul 31, 2018 16:10
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Did you put something on the inside of those frame rails? If not, you may want to get some of https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-internal-frame-coating-14oz-aerosol.html I have some, but haven't tried it. It comes with a long hose that you shove in the rail and spray as you pull it out. Can't hurt if you have nothing in there currently.
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Jul 31, 2018 16:17
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Bajaha posted:Looking good, but are my eyes tricking me or is the bed higher near the cab and lower in the back, looks like it has a bit of a backwards rake to it? This: Larrymer posted:Maybe not bolted down. Only two bolts were in place with that picture and not tightened, so probably this, or it's not something I noticed in person. None of the 9 that are in place are getting tightened until a solution for redrilling the 10th mount in-situ is figured out. blindjoe posted:Did you put something on the inside of those frame rails? If not, you may want to get some of Only way to really get the inside of the rails cleaned and rust-protected with POR-15 is to take the inner rails out, that's a lot of hard-as-gently caress rivets and there's zero point in putting the inner rails back on instead of boxing the frame if you're gonna go through that much effort. Definitely planning on using something like what you linked, though I think there's a wax version too. One day I want to fully box the frame, but for now it's just about protecting what is there and patching the worst of it. Originally I was gonna fill the frame rails with a firestop closed-cell foam but I think that'd only really work if there weren't so many openings.
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Aug 1, 2018 04:19
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Fermented Tinal posted:
If there's anything that working with boats and closed cell floatation foam has taught me, is that once the foam starts breaking down, it's really good at holding water.
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Aug 3, 2018 15:47
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Yeah, I'm not using the foam, will be going with the eastwood coating instead. Anyways, a moment of silence for this basically brand-new blade that snapped in half, the aluminium the bed is made out of is some pretty tough poo poo, it even wore out a rotary file.  Still managed to get the tail lights mounted, as well as the markers, all the electric poo poo that goes on the bed is in place. Once my dad locates his right angle drill and we drill out the 10th mounting hole we'll be done with the bed for now.  Then decided to start working on running the wiring, unfortunately my 40yo harness looks like this just about everywhere. Gonna have to replace it all, but at least that means I only need to salvage a handful of connectors because I can use whatever conectors I goddamn well feel like for a lot of it.  Can't run that, so I present to you the complete wiring diagram for a 1976 Toyota FJ40, which is essentially the same as for a FJ45, minus the second blower motor for rear heat that some models had but mine obviously does not. I also don't need the sections related to the ignition, so about a quarter of the diagram is not necessary at all, I bet most modern cars have wiring diagrams for their lighting systems that are more complicated than this.  Also discovered that the second set of front signal lights that I bought a few months ago were designed to never work, there's no path to ground because the housing is plastic and all three wires go to the positive terminals on the three bulbs and the reflector (which is "ground" in this case, has no connection to the metal mounting post or a wire for running a ground. I lodged a complaint with the ebay seller but I imagine they'll tell me to pound salt. They were pretty poorly assembled too and have no seals which means I'll have to do some modifications.  I'm not buying a third loving set of these so so cue me taking apart the two Japanese-made right-side signals so I could put their guts into the left and right Taiwanese housings because they're grounded properly. Naturally the guts are handed for the right side and not the left. Had to move one bulb to the other side of the reflector on this one and grind a tab off the mounting plate for the post so that it would line up properly due to being meant for a right side housing but stuffed into a left side one.  Not the best solution, but at least they'll actually work since I can run a ground for them now. Now I need to figure out where I can get marine-grade wire without spending a shitload of money for 25' spools in 12 different colours, I suspect I'm gonna buy fewer colours and label the gently caress out of everything instead. Fermented Tinal fucked around with this message at 03:35 on Aug 5, 2018 |
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Aug 5, 2018 01:36
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You can always use a single colour and then get shrink tube labels. https://www.ezselection.ca/heat-shrink-tubing.html
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Aug 21, 2018 16:05
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Do what the military does. All white Teflon wire, and lots of labels.  It's a loving riot to watch someone open up a wiring closet and see nothing but a sea of Type E white wire.
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Aug 21, 2018 22:07
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Look on the bright side man, you are in way, way less than I am on my project and it's a lot closer to done! Honestly it looks great! I would love something like this for a project down the road.
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Aug 22, 2018 07:29
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Today dad and I went through the wiring diagram and determined there were six primary colours and six secondary colours. Red, blue, green, yellow, white, and black for each. Green's the most-used primary colour based upon sheer length of wire needed, and to designate secondary colours I decided to go with using heat shrink. Essentially anywhere there's a splice or a termination the heat shrink will be in the secondary colour, if applicable. Not terminating anything yet, or hooking anything up, right now we're just starting on the process of figuring out all the runs first. And so it begins, with the rear, which has the longest runs but is ultimately the easiest place to start.   Since it seems like we're gonna start with the lights wrt the wiring harness, needed to finish putting the two front signal lights together and get them in place. The headlight buckets are off again so I can paint them. 
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Aug 26, 2018 00:08
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I love the fact that a 2018 Toyota 200 series landcruiser still uses white with a black trace as earth. Toyota- We get MILEAGE from our design choices! Or someone back in the early 60's cocked up and bought 2 million kms of white wire with black trace instead of 2000km of it....
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Aug 26, 2018 01:14
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Ferremit posted:I love the fact that a 2018 Toyota 200 series landcruiser still uses white with a black trace as earth. Toyota- We get MILEAGE from our design choices! There's probably just enough overlap between different model refreshes that they never got a chance to completely eliminate it from the line all at once.
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Aug 26, 2018 06:01
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Honestly, I'm not very impressed by the way Toyota put the original harness together even though it still worked. I'll have to take a picture of the factory splices if I remember to, tinyass crimps holding together 5 wires and a lot of unecessarily long runs for grounds. The way dad and I are putting together the new harness should be a lot cleaner and have better grounding. I find it mind boggling that pretty much anything that has 12v running through it uses green as the primary colour since that's traditionally one of the colours used for ground in North America. 
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Aug 26, 2018 09:35
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Fermented Tinal posted:Honestly, I'm not very impressed by the way Toyota put the original harness together even though it still worked. I'll have to take a picture of the factory splices if I remember to, tinyass crimps holding together 5 wires and a lot of unecessarily long runs for grounds. The way dad and I are putting together the new harness should be a lot cleaner and have better grounding. What about black or white, then? poo poo, I think black in mixed AC/DC systems is a way bigger issue. Ground? No, 120VAC live!
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Aug 26, 2018 16:45
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sharkytm posted:What about black or white, then? poo poo, I think black in mixed AC/DC systems is a way bigger issue. Ground? No, 120VAC live! This is gonna be too tough for me to explain without a massive textwall I'm unwilling to write. Stop thinking of the negative side of a DC circuit as always ground, it'll help.
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Aug 27, 2018 11:29
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This is not entirely just an anti-archive bump. Did a little work on it yesterday, painted the headlight buckets and started crimping and soldering on the rear but I need to get more heatshrink so not a whole lot got done. No pictures because I am a bad. Also pulled the wheels off the Versa to do a rotation and while under there I tried to figure out where my streering clunk's been coming from. There's zero play in the tie rods and zero play in the suspension, I'm starting to wonder if it's in the steering rack or column. At least it means that I don't need to do anything other than a brake job on this car and install the replacement cats I've had laying around for it for awhile before putting it up for sale.
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Sep 23, 2018 13:18
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If the US versa is anything at all like the AU tiiida, then theres a solid chance that the clunk is the top strut mounts on the front end cos nissan, in their infinite loving stupidity, put the rubber in the top strut mount in TENSION instead of COMPRESSION. The shock top plate is ABOVE the body mount plate with bonded rubber joining them so after about 70K kms the inevitable happens and it tears that poo poo apart and your suspension starts to clunk and bang on bumps.
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Sep 23, 2018 23:57
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Not likely. While I'm sure the car's built as you describe, the clunk I get is felt through the steering wheel when turning right. Honestly, from what I was able to inspect, which included the struts, it all looks good and there's no play in it. I'm leaning torwads steering column u-joint or the rack itself. Fermented Tinal fucked around with this message at 01:49 on Sep 24, 2018 |
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Sep 24, 2018 01:47
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The above post was me not wanting to believe it but now I swear I feel it only when the suspension flexes while moving at speed. I'm now starting to think you're right, Ferremit. I don't want you to be right, I am planning on selling the Versa. It is with great sadness that I must announce my and the cruiser's departure from the shop. My folks sold the property about a month ago and the handoff takes place at the end of this month. The tools are gone.  The benches are bare.  Goodbye faithful 2-post.   Getting the new home (a garage on the property next door to the one with the shop) prepped for all sorts of automotive fluids.   Getting ready to hit the road! Picture some straps and chains connecting the front of the truck to the bar on the tractor hitch.  Brisk fall day for a topless cruise in rural Ontario.   If only they were still in season...  New and probably temporary home.  Also I got my Forte. There are a lot of buttons, like at least one order of magnitude more buttons than the land cruiser.  Apparently most people don't keep the French manual, I opted to do so just to go against the flow.  Here it is after deciding to impress me by averaging 5.1L/100km (46mpg) on our very first trip together.  Overall so far it is a great car and I am happy with my purchase.
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Nov 6, 2018 01:43
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Fermented Tinal posted:The above post was me not wanting to believe it but now I swear I feel it only when the suspension flexes while moving at speed. I'm now starting to think you're right, Ferremit. I don't want you to be right, I am planning on selling the Versa. That’s alright... I was close to dragging mine out of the shed with the land cruiser into the middle of the road and setting it on fire because at 200k it decided to eat it’s head gasket...
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Nov 6, 2018 03:28
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Be sure to double check the fuel mileage at the pump, I know my Hyundai is ever the optimist and shows about 1l/100km better than actual calculated mileage. Otherwise nice upgrade from the Versa! And let's see some progress on the BJ, don't let temporary become eerily permanent.
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Nov 6, 2018 03:31
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