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McTinkerson
Jul 5, 2007

Dreaming of Shock Diamonds


Progress update:

Front suspension bushing replacement continues. Drivers side arms are removed and ready to have their bushings replaced.
Same goes for that corners damper / spring.

On track to have the front end completed over the course of this week an hour at a time in the evenings. With picture proof!

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McTinkerson
Jul 5, 2007

Dreaming of Shock Diamonds


I'm taking a page from a fellow RADL member and role model. Picture dump with comments added as time allows.
Edit: Images now have commentary.

In support of the imminent lowering of the F-150, something has to be done about the rear axle to exhaust hoop clearance. After the axle flip and replacement of the bump stops with shorter versions, the factory hoop would slowly be crimped on full suspension up travel.
Enter the longest muffler Magnaflow makes. 30" body, 36" overall length.




https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mfaXojzdyro
I am incredibly happy with how it sounds and since there is no longer any exhaust after the cab, problem solved.


The Mexican domestic market badges finally showed up as well. These will be going on at the same time as the lowering kit.


The Macan hit 20k km and was due for an oil change, the local dealer hands out fantastic loaners, I will give them that. it was tough giving it back... (Still burning through the referral bonus gift cards, which is why the dealer is still doing the maintenance.

Superior German adhesives indeed, one of the letters fell off! So I guess they all go.


The rear camber arms weren't salvageable, enter Phase 2 Motortrends camber arms. Cheaper and better built than Megan Racing or any other JDM manufacturers.

Teflon coated heim joints!


Both the LCA camber bolt and caster bolt have completely seized to the bushing sleeve. They have become one part of corroded steel.

Removing bushing sucks....



Drivers side UCA installed with new poly bushings.


H&R springs installed on the front shocks.

McTinkerson fucked around with this message at 02:30 on Aug 12, 2019

slothrop
Dec 7, 2006

Santa Alpha, Fox One... Gifts Incoming ~~~>===|>

Soiled Meat
That Gulf stripe looks great

Wrar
Sep 9, 2002


Soiled Meat

slothrop posted:

That Gulf stripe looks great

Martini, my dude.

McTinkerson
Jul 5, 2007

Dreaming of Shock Diamonds


Wrar posted:

Martini, my dude.

Aye, Martini. Boosted, not stirred.

Further progress, however still excruciatingly slow. Every time I work on this thing, I want to burn it to the ground due to how corroded and seized everything is.

DoritoPower helped remove (sawzall out) the LCA bolts and get the back half of the car buttoned up.

Passenger side UCA bushings are removed and new poly versions installed. UCA is back in the car and bolted up.

So what is left to do in order to start driving it again?
Remove the passenger LCA and drop both off at the same shop I used to press out the diff bushings. Then toss in the new poly units and bolt everything back up.
All followed by an alignment and it's all done!

Sounds easy right? Yeah, based on how long it's taken up to this point, I might not even have to dig out the summer wheels....

McTinkerson
Jul 5, 2007

Dreaming of Shock Diamonds


Pre-Mega Post: Drove the RX-8 to work today. I love this thing so much and all the pain was worth it.

Actual progress post to follow.

slothrop
Dec 7, 2006

Santa Alpha, Fox One... Gifts Incoming ~~~>===|>

Soiled Meat

Wrar posted:

Martini, my dude.

Oh man, I must have been drinking because that is clearly not Gulf livery!

McTinkerson
Jul 5, 2007

Dreaming of Shock Diamonds


Finally getting around to updating the thread.

We left off with getting the RX-8 suspension completed. So let's go back in time a little.


This is what calcium chloride does to camber bolts that are 4 years old....


New bushings pressed in to the factory LCA's. Oddly enough, I could not find a single aftermarket LCA. There are plenty of UCA's with heim joints, full adjust-ability, etc. but no lower control arms.
Hence the need to fight with the factory ones.


Factory fresh camber bolts. The were given a liberal coating of anti seize prior to be installed.


I think further adjustment was necessary regarding alignment parameters.


It also needed a wash. Reflection isn't to shabby though.


Last year when the car went up on jack stands, there was still snow on the ground. Hence the winter wheels.
They're 17" and there is maybe 5mm of clearance between the barrel and caliper.


At this point, it was the end of August and I couldn't burn off the winter tires, to on went the factory wheels with summers.

And with that, the suspension work on the RX-8 was completed. One vehicle down, one to go.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
black gold

McTinkerson
Jul 5, 2007

Dreaming of Shock Diamonds


With the RX-8 complete for now, it was time to install those DJM and Bilstein parts that have been sitting around in the garage for close to a year.

Except that DoritoPower bought a future drift missile over 800km away and need the rotary support vehicle to do it's thing.



FC's have gotten expensive in Canada and this was the only decent deal he could find. Over 800km away.


Since the trip was going way to smooth, the rear drivers side trailer tire decided to pick up a roofing staple in Kamloops, BC somewhere between the motel we were staying in and the sellers house (~10km distance max). This is why everyone should be like DoritoPower, he bought the roadside insurance on the trailer rental.
Total delay leaving town, just shy of four hours.


Had to stop and stretch our legs on the way back in Valemount, BC.


We made it back to Edmonton around 0100, I think. Just like Sweet Chili Heat, it gets better fuel economy being towed on a trailer than moving under it's own power.

I am continuously trying to convince DoritoPower that he needs a thread of his own. Between his FD, his hawk eye wagon, his Aristo and now the turbo FC drift missile, he's properly AI.

McTinkerson
Jul 5, 2007

Dreaming of Shock Diamonds


Slowly getting caught up with the present.

On October 19, 2019, the final phase of "The Lowering" could commence.

Massive image dump incoming. I will add commentary as time allows.


This is the truck with 2" lowering springs and a a 2" drop shackle.


Current front air dam ground clearance courtesy of the last bastion of Canadian air travel soda.


The rear wheel gap causes my physical pain whenever I see it. This is with a 2" drop already.


The rear axle flip kit from DJM. Left to right: Grade 8.8 bolts and stainless nylock nuts, bump stops, axle clamp brackets, spring plates and U-bolts.


The usual time crunch lack of pictures apply. The factory U-bolts run left to right and have been removed. The spring plate is sitting on top of the leafs with the leaf pack/alignment bolts/nuts soaking in seafoam deep creep. The factory bump stops are massive in comparison to the new ones from the flip kit.


All rear shackle bolts had to be cut out. They were removed just over a year ago for the 2" drop shackle. They should not have been seized inside the bushing sleeves but just like the RX-8, it seems that is a constant in my life now.


In order to move the axle above the leaf springs, the passenger side leaf has to be disconnected. The other option would have been to disconnect the diff from the driveshaft but given the state of all fasteners up until now, I didn't want to chance breaking the flange bolts. The springs bolts are significantly larger and less likely to round off, snap or otherwise deform.


The flip kit consists of three components. The new rear shackles, axle to spring alignment/mounting bracket, spring to axle clamp u-bolts. The lower clamp bracket has holes in it that sit in the spring pack bolt heads.


Passenger side bolted together. The axle clamp brackets use the factory spring mount plate as the pinion alignment method. Depending on how the two bolts are tightened, it rotates the axle. Equal gap front to back is 0 degree pinion angle. the new bump stops also buy back some of the suspension travel lost. The new Bilsteins are universal units with 7.6" of travel. Ford runs the parking brake cable in front of the passenger shock. The flip kit does not have provisions for bolting the cable bracket back in place. There is a bolt from the clamp bracket provided that allows strategic use of zip ties.


The new U-bolts protrude as far down as the factory shock mounts. I might trim them, I might leave them.


A better shot of how everything fits together on the drivers side.


New ride height in the rear (with the gear) after the flip kit installed.


This is a much better wheel gap.


New rear bumper height. Still within provincial regulation height and the bed is now much more usable. I now drop things down into it instead of lifting things up.


New control arms vs factory. Lowering is achieved through lowering the shock mount and ball joint location.


Something is missing here...


That's better.


New Moog alignment bolts. The new LCA has zerk fittings for all bushings and ball joints.


The front end is now lowered 5". I might have gone to far.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_mFxUIH5IaE

Edit: Comments added.

McTinkerson fucked around with this message at 03:57 on Nov 17, 2019

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Mmmm. I like.

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


That looks loving amazing, but your air dam is not long for this world.

some FX-4 skidplates might also be on the bill.

Dagen H
Mar 19, 2009

Hogertrafikomlaggningen

Powershift posted:

That looks loving amazing, and your snowplow should now be functional.

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009



Around here the problem isn't the snow, it's what's under it.

I'm curious though, did the kit include shims to correct the driveline angle?

McTinkerson
Jul 5, 2007

Dreaming of Shock Diamonds


Powershift posted:

Around here the problem isn't the snow, it's what's under it.

I'm curious though, did the kit include shims to correct the driveline angle?

The kit allows infinite drive-line angle adjustment due to the clamp bracket design. (Also added this into the comments of the post in question.)
The shop I took it to for its alignment made the final angle adjustments. It is within 1 degree of factory spec.

I also had to raise the front up since with a 5" front drop there were some issues. The truck couldn't drive onto any alignment rack into the city. The steering rack boot rubbed on the LCA at full lock under compression and the rake was back to factory.

Luckily, the Bilstein front shocks have 2" of adjustment in them. Not so luckily, the top hat/shaft nuts were seized like every other fastener. I dropped the front units off at a local shop for disassembly since they have a caged spring compressor and shock shaft vice grips.

Good thing I did. Apparently the drivers side shaft decided to make a break for freedom from the body upon disassembly and may or may not ended up in the ceiling...
Due to insurance reasons, the shop declined to let me take pictures. They also threw out the shock parts. Apparently, the shaft seal let some of that wonderful calcium chloride in and things got ugly.
Bilstein North America also had that specific model on back order continent wide. (I wonder why?) Enter a two week delay and the truck up on jack stands. Could have been worse, it could have failed while I was on the highway.

Everything is back together now. Front is raised up to maximum height with the shock adjustment. Which is still a 3" drop in the front.


Steering rack boot to LCA clearance is good. I could use shorter swaybar end links however. I will leave them until the spring. Then I'll decide of I want to lower the front half and inch which will still keep the rack boots happy.


Factory rake is eliminated. Overall 3" lower. Front fender TDC to ground 32.25", rear 32.5".


There is still hope that the air dam will survive.


The lowering is concluded. For now. The front allows another 1" and if I install the factory 4x4 spring spacer, the rear goes down another inch as well. Lowering the rear any more will absolutely require a c-notch and I will have to shorten the rear driveshaft.

Edit: I totally forgot, I also will need new adjustable upper control arms if I lower the front any more. Best front camber is -3 degrees with stock uppers at a 5" drop.

McTinkerson fucked around with this message at 21:13 on Nov 17, 2019

Seat Safety Switch
May 27, 2008

MY RELIGION IS THE SMALL BLOCK V8 AND COMMANDMENTS ONE THROUGH TEN ARE NEVER LIFT.

Pillbug
We just need to design a better air dam if this one breaks.

McTinkerson
Jul 5, 2007

Dreaming of Shock Diamonds


Project status update!

Truck is good. Lowering continues to be awesome. I desperately need traction bars though. It axle wrapped bad in stock form, now it's really bad.
Going to try and enter the truck in some winter rally-x and ice lapping events next year (January through March).

Black Friday sales have come through for me as hoped and I now have Versatuner for the RX-8.
The stock ECU is now my bitch. Flat foot shifting, launch control, full ignition and fuel control as well as oil injection rates are now fully open for modifications.

Who wants to start a betting pool for how long the factory muffler lasts?

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Ba

By

Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo


Fallen Rib
Six braps.

McTinkerson
Jul 5, 2007

Dreaming of Shock Diamonds


sharkytm posted:

Six braps.

Let's find out!

First off, let's start with the canned tune for modified intake and exhaust.

Then bump down the rad fan enable temperature setpoints from 97->88 and 101->95



Now it's off to load this into the ECU and start tweaking fueling and ignition tables. Maximum Rice Crispy Mode® to follow soon.

Edit: Oh dear...

McTinkerson fucked around with this message at 23:45 on Dec 14, 2019

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Ba

By

Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo


Fallen Rib
LOL. Launch control, gotta check that box.

I'm gonna edit my guess down to 5 braps.

sharkytm fucked around with this message at 04:03 on Dec 20, 2019

McTinkerson
Jul 5, 2007

Dreaming of Shock Diamonds


Factory RX-8 muffler is still alive.

Rice crispy mode is at 80%. Reason for it not being at 100%: Positive that there's a bug in the latest version of Versatuner for the S1 RX-8. The decel fuel cut table doesn't work. Need to get more datalogs to prove it and forward them to the Versatuner devs.

AFR's go full lean whenever I let off the gas in gear above 3k rpm and the fuel flow goes to 0. Which is factory settings based on coolant temperatures. Except I have the fuel cut table set to cut fuel above 9800rpm. So something isn't right.

For now, the lowest engine load ignition and fueling tables have been properly massaged. So I can get burbles, pops, bangs and fire on command by playing with the loud pedal. However, can not get them automatically when in gear decelerating with the throttle pedal at 0.

I need to get a gopro stuck to the back bumper regardless because above 6k rpm, it's toasty back there.

As for the F-150, lowered life is great. Zero drive-ability issues except for one. With the rake reduced to almost zero, the weight balance has shifted rearwards. This has made the axle wrap worse and wheel hop above 50% throttle from a stop is a guarantee. Timeline on traction bars will be accelerated to as soon as financially possible.

Edit: Versatuner table screenshots added.




McTinkerson fucked around with this message at 23:33 on Jan 26, 2020

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Is there a separate DFCO table / setting?

McTinkerson
Jul 5, 2007

Dreaming of Shock Diamonds


IOwnCalculus posted:

Is there a separate DFCO table / setting?

The only table I can find is the one that determines DFCO based on coolant temp. I'll ask the devs when I send them the recent data logs if there is anything else that I am missing (I probably am).

Also, today is Mazda's 100th Birthday! :toot:

Seat Safety Switch
May 27, 2008

MY RELIGION IS THE SMALL BLOCK V8 AND COMMANDMENTS ONE THROUGH TEN ARE NEVER LIFT.

Pillbug
Happy birthday Mazda!

McTinkerson
Jul 5, 2007

Dreaming of Shock Diamonds


Rotary update!

Versatuner is working on the bug with the current DFCO table. Unknown ETA on when or if it will be resolved.

We've gotten our 5th? winter and proper social distancing has been observed:
https://www.instagram.com/p/B-YjNxgnaw3/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
I was able to slide around in the snow bouncing off the limiter shooting fire for a solid 20 minutes before the local flat-billed vape brigade showed up with the RCMP in tow.
Thus, no additional footage of stunting and trespassing.

I will probably go and try find another unplowed parking lot tonight.

The F-150 has surpassed 123k km and is due for it's ignition system overhaul. Plugs and coils ordered. Once they show up and it is no longer Hoth outside, that's next on the list.

McTinkerson
Jul 5, 2007

Dreaming of Shock Diamonds


It was ignition overhaul day this past weekend. The rotary support vehicle was due for coils and plugs due to age and a noticeably rougher idle.


The "mighty" first generation 3.5 ecoboost. Seen in it's original habitat looking a little tired due to daily use for 124k km now. As previous posts have shown, not all trouble free.


The first plug - front passenger bank. I'd give it a solid 3.5 roentgen. Plug gap was 1.0mm, it should be 0.75mm (0.030"). So there is definitely some wear. No serious discoloration or deposits though.


The complete passenger bank of plugs. Consistent plug gaps of 1.0mm. No surprises.


The complete drivers bank of plugs. Plug gaps were a little tighter on two of the three at 0.9mm. That might have been an error on my end when I installed the last set at 60k km.


Uh oh, this is the coil from the firewall passenger bank. Looks like a leak at the valve cover plug gasket has developed. I cleaned everything up and I will check this coil in 5k km again. If there's a repeat of that quantity of oil, it's time for new valve cover gaskets. That will also give me a chance to paint them. UV-reactive neon blue perhaps?


It was also time to check the MAPT sensor which sits in the center of the intake manifold above the valley towards to firewall. It was coated in oil. This might have also been the cause of the rough idle. It's clean now and I will most likely have to add a catch can to the list of future upgrades after the traction bars. When I initially was looking in to them, there was no manufacturer who reliably could offer a CEL free installation on the 3.5's. I hope that has now been solved.



Passenger and drivers bank all buttoned up with new NGK coils. We'll see if NGK's quality for non-rotary parts is as good. There seems to be some chatter on the ecoboost specific forums that the OEM Motorcraft coils are the best.

Another benefit to having a 3" drop and less rake is that I no longer need a step stool/ladder to work on the engine.


After all this hard work, it was nap time.

McTinkerson
Jul 5, 2007

Dreaming of Shock Diamonds


With spring finally upon us, it was time to stop punishing the Gislaved winter tires.


The factory wheels are going on to the car for the last time I think. The Hankook V12 Evo's are getting close to the wear bars and have a 2011 date code. Not to mention over 8 years of auto-x events on them. I already don't feel totally comfortable putting tires this old on the car but I plan on down sizing to 17" wheels for the summers next year. Ideally those 17's would be 9" wide Advan SA3R's.


About an hour later and the stock wheels are back on the car. Zero issues getting everything swapped over. Car desperately needs a bath though.


Oh yeah, I finally have a motorcycle again. The current climate has finally gotten the local dealers to pull their heads out of their asses and have stopped with all the bullshit regarding "fees" and above MSRP mark ups. I bought it sight unseen via email for waaaaay under sticker. Had 0km on it when picked up. So it is possible to buy a vehicle via email including signing all paperwork.


Ok, Ok, it's ready to race. I get it.


I really need to get started on the Boss Coffee livery. This popped up in a German Wankel Facebook group. Converting this to svg and using it as a template for decal design should work.


Not pictured, a used "overnight from Japan" Auto-Exe Titanium catback for the 8. The stock muffler, while still alive despite my best efforts to blow it up, has got to go. It is way to buzzy, raspy and quiet. Plus, the wife hates the sound. Installation is scheduled for this coming weekend.

Edit: 2011 date code, I stand corrected.

McTinkerson fucked around with this message at 03:04 on May 4, 2020

McTinkerson
Jul 5, 2007

Dreaming of Shock Diamonds


ADHD - Check
A white VW (well VAG family product) - Check
Overnight parts from Japan - Check


Getting dangerously close to Jesse. Better make sure I don't race any S2K's.


The best solution that Auto-Exe has to offer. Their "premium tail muffler". It is incredibly light. Used obviously.


The mufflers are pretty beefy. A little on the short side given what a rotary needs but it should suffice. They're very similar to the dimensions of the Racing Beat and Greddy units.


Removal of the stock one took over an hour and involved a sawzall. The intermediate pipe was fused to the muffler inlet. It is ridiculously heavy and given the beating it has taken, is very well built. Mazda put some serious effort into the construction of it.


The "new" one went in in 15 minutes. There's now a fair bit of dead space under the trunk. You can see the JASMA plate on the drivers side tail pipe.


Tail pipes should clean up. None of the scratches are very deep.

At this point, I wanted to post 4k video of how absolutely obnoxious the tune is that's on the car right now and how much the stock muffler was hiding. Except that the microSD card I thought I had is nowhere to be found. New one should be here on the 11th.

McTinkerson
Jul 5, 2007

Dreaming of Shock Diamonds


This post is thanks to Olympic Mathlete for the Sony Vega Pro recommendation. Free 30 day trial / max video length 2 minutes. It is ridiculously easy to use.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m9QZCT3WXCw
There's 3 slow-mo fireballs at the end.
Turns out, the tune I have one the car is incredibly damaging to exhaust gaskets, both liquid and not MLS. Has anyone had luck with the Vibrant MLS gaskets?

All that is left now is to wait for Versatuner to fix the DFCO table and I can really start having fun. That should also let me reduce ignition retard from -25/-20 as well.

I've been slacking on getting the designs finalized for the livery. The local community has provided the motivation however: https://tunerbash.ca/
Show and shine during sun up. Drag racing until dawn once the sun sets. We've got our very own Racewars. Now where are those Spoon engines.

I've been trying to get smaller projects cleaned up prior to starting anything else as well. Like the Mexican domestic market F-150 badges. The 2011+ F-150's fender badges are held on with tension clips through the body work in addition to double sided tape. So you can't remove them. You can replace them however.



So now I guess I have a magnetic wolf?

Seat Safety Switch
May 27, 2008

MY RELIGION IS THE SMALL BLOCK V8 AND COMMANDMENTS ONE THROUGH TEN ARE NEVER LIFT.

Pillbug
That bike is gorgeous in that sort of obnoxious cyberpunk rice style.

McTinkerson
Jul 5, 2007

Dreaming of Shock Diamonds


Race wars is less than a week away. Time to get the final touches completed.

Catch Can is finally in. Mazda cleaned up the vent system on the 2006 models significantly. The crank case is the only thing that vents back to the intake via a T fitting into the lower intake manifold primary intake runners. Not anymore.

I always planned to re-use the air-pump bracket as a mounting point for the catch can. It is securely bolted to the bracket and will not be going anywhere.

I also have the vectors ready for the livery.

The boss is going on the rear doors.


The toki logo is going on the front fenders above the "vents".

Still haven't decided if I want to put anything on the hood or trunk.

No ETA from VersaTuner on the DFCO bug either. DoritoPower did mention that Link ECU's latest hardware has a wire in with CAN outputs that will let me run the 13B-MSP and keep ABS, steering and the factory gauge cluster. So a Link Fury X might be happening sooner rather than later. I'm still not sold on Adaptronic but maybe the Haltech merger might help.

McTinkerson fucked around with this message at 00:04 on Aug 16, 2020

McTinkerson
Jul 5, 2007

Dreaming of Shock Diamonds


Tuner Bash 2020 has come and gone. The current pandemic situation certainly had an effect on the event. It was not very well organised and there were some serious communication breakdowns.

But I did get to race as much as I wanted and destroyed my clutch and transmission in the process.

The day of was a bit of a scramble. I got the first iteration of the Suntory Toki x Boss Coffee livery completed 15 minutes before I had to leave.

Overall I am very happy with how it turned out (especially for $20 worth of vinyl and my sister in laws Cricut).
I think the top Suntory text will be removed. It looks cleaner without it.

After sitting for a solid 45 minutes in line to get through the gate and passing tech with flying colors (for which there was no line up at all) the fun could begin.



Armed with my good luck charm, it was off to line up in the staging area.


I was certainly in good company. This should have been renamed Demon Bash, there were over six Demons, a dozen Hellcats and even more lesser Challengers, Chargers and even a shaker swapped Magnum.

I did not get any pictures of NumbersMatching320's Volvo C30 - trust me when I say it is amazing and stupid fast.

I did get evidence of something rather interesting though:

Is that what I think it is?


Dajiban!!!! The canards were a nice touch.


So how did I do? Well the published 1320ft time for a S1 6 port RX-8 is 16.4s. I'm going to assume this is at sea level or pretty close to it.
My best time was 17.01. I can not figure out how to launch the car without getting wheel hop or bogging it. So, I'm slow as hell and in a very un-race car driver fashion, it's not the car. It is absolutely the driver. The last run was when the clutch and transmission had enough of the abuse and would not let me shift into second and then third gear.

I did look pretty drat good though.

https://www.staytunedyeg.com/#/tuner-bash-august-21-2020/

Bonus, the chrome vinyl is reflective enough that it projects what I am onto the ground.


In summary, just like pizza, even if it's bad, it's still good and I had a blast. It was also great to see NumbersMatching320 again.

Looks like the RX-8 is going to need a new clutch this winter and I mine as well start hunting for a S2 RX-8 transmission while I'm at it.

McTinkerson fucked around with this message at 18:26 on Aug 28, 2020

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


Felix! (I have the slightly larger one) Boss lively looks, uh, boss. You’re not trying hard enough if you don’t break something. :)

And I unironically want a Dajiban with a built 360.

McTinkerson
Jul 5, 2007

Dreaming of Shock Diamonds


That 13B-REW swap may be happening sooner rather than later...

Pre-Tuner Bash, the oil level was topped up along with the fuel. Post Tuner Bash, the fuel tank was empty but I had not burned a drop of oil. So there is a problem with the oil injection system somewhere. There are no CEL's which mean the oil metering pump has not failed in a way to trip a trouble code. So it's failed in a different way or the injection tubing or the injectors themselves are plugged.

Mazda completely redesigned the oil injection system for the series 2 RX-8's, so even Mazda noticed that some work was needed. Because of this, I will not be tearing the intake system off and checking all injection components.
I'm just going to cross my fingers that there hasn't been to much internal engine damage and keep beating on it.

With some minor modifications.



The ECU will no longer be asking for any oil to be injected. Instead, a 100:1 ratio of fuel to 2 stroke will be going into the tank. There are no Idemitsu distributors in Canada (that I know of), so Amsoil Interceptor will have to do.
I can now also run full synthetic oil in the crank case. Next oil change will be Rotella T6 5W-40.

Work has begun on the fuel filler door decal and the foam insert for the trunk to hold the premix bottles, funnel and oil.

McTinkerson
Jul 5, 2007

Dreaming of Shock Diamonds


I am once again buying unnecessary parts for the RX-8, simply because the opportunity was to good to pass up.

With shipping from Japan being a complete poo poo show and Croooober and Buyee upping their wheel shipping costs from $150/set to $700/set, the likelihood of me buying another pair of Super Advans to complete my summer set went from slim to LOL Nope.

Enter FB Marketplace. Koya Wheels. 17x9 +38. WTF are Koya's? They have zero presence in North America. The ad made zero mention of the exact model, but based on the manufacturers website, their racing line is semi-forged. Why are they listed for $600 obo? Is it because no one knows what the hell they are? The offset isn't stance enough? Maybe it's because the guy selling them lives in the rear end end of nowhere...


Enter the rotary support vehicle doing it's thing.


Peek A Boo


Based on their weight and that awesome gong like ring they make, they're legit.


They're a little rough but still clean up very nicely.


Fuel economy isn't bad considering the speed there. Less so on the way back due to a heavy RCMP presence.

This coming spring, they will be wrapped in 255/45/17 all seasons. The higher the TW the better because I still only have 180whp (on a good day).

Oh yeah, I also have a set of SPL Parts camber bolt eliminators waiting to be installed since a few to many off/on-ramp runs have broken the torque on the stock eccentric camber bolts. I'm now at -3 on the drivers rear and -2 on the passenger. Oops.

McTinkerson
Jul 5, 2007

Dreaming of Shock Diamonds


Minor update.

SPL Parts Eccentric Camber Bolt eliminators are in.


Now to book it in for an alignment. I cannot get enough leverage to break the torque on the adjustable camber arms with the car on jackstands. A hoist / additional clearance is needed.
Cell phone held vertical against the wheel face says -3.4 and -3.8 degrees of camber currently.

It is also book in for a full underside dry ice vapour blasting and cosmoline (HoneySeal) treatment November 13. $750CAD all in seems pretty drat reasonable to me for what I been told is literally 16 man hours of meticulous work. Lifetime warranty and a giant gently caress you to the provinces use of Calcium Chloride.
https://www.instagram.com/sublimesurfacing/?hl=en

I still need to spend some time on the fuel door decal, so no updates on that unfortunately.
Apart from that, it's basically just slide the poo poo out of it all winter while I wait for VersaTuners to release the software fix for the DFCO table.

McTinkerson
Jul 5, 2007

Dreaming of Shock Diamonds


Slight change of direction. I am going to hold off on the Honey Seal until the following parts are on the car:
This way I do not have to go back and have it re-applied.
Fingers crossed that someone in north america puts on a sale on these.

This should hopefully cure the wheel hop and get things ready for the eventual quadrupling of kW after the 13B-REW swap.

A few more goodies have also shown up.



My Pro Formula Mazda spec 13B-MSP thermostat housing. All inlets and outlets have been ported. The factory bypass passage between the front plate inlet and outlet has also been plugged, so now all coolant has to go through the radiator at all times.

In support of this, a new thermostat is on the way along with a thermowax bypass pellet. From the factory, there is a thermostat in the oil system that limits the flow of oil to the rotors to assist in warm up. Only enough oil needed to keep the bearings "happy" is allowed until the oil warms up enough. If the factory t-stat fails, you can starve your rotors of oil. So that's going in to the garbage.

Next on the to do list is finally modifying the factory engine mounts. They're having the oil in them replaced with 90 shore urethane.

While all of this was in the mail, I got a little distracted.

McTinkerson
Jul 5, 2007

Dreaming of Shock Diamonds


Shop move & black Friday week sales for Elite Rotary Shop goodies have arrived:



I almost have everything needed to tackle the water pump housing. All that is missing is new radiator hoses. There are close to 120k km on the originals, so this is absolutely one of those "while I'm in there" jobs. Those are on the way. They're from Mishimoto and they're red.

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Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


No, you want blue - red makes the water hotter/faster.

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