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mewse
May 2, 2006


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mewse
May 2, 2006

Took a look at some things today. Fiberglassing the broken fairing is going to be a pain because the break is right beside the turn signal mount which is raised internally for a washer.

3D printed some washer type things for the side cover screws, but messed up assuming the screws were M8 when they're actually M6. Have a revised design ready, just using 2 nylon washers for now.

Finally tackled the turn signal switch and fixed it! Finally! Also I broke the headlight/high beam switch so now I think I have to replace the whole assembly because that doesn't seem fixable

Skreemer
Jan 28, 2006
I like blue.
Page 299 OEM replacement switchgear if you can't find a decent set:
http://www.emgo.com/images/pdf/2019general.pdf

I've used both Suzuki OEM and universal replacements from EMGO, they aren't the best, but they are brand new and every experience I've had, they work.
More for even older bikes than what you have, but I've used a universal replacement a few times when the originals can't be found (you should be able to find one)

mewse
May 2, 2006

Skreemer posted:

Page 299 OEM replacement switchgear if you can't find a decent set:
http://www.emgo.com/images/pdf/2019general.pdf

I've used both Suzuki OEM and universal replacements from EMGO, they aren't the best, but they are brand new and every experience I've had, they work.
More for even older bikes than what you have, but I've used a universal replacement a few times when the originals can't be found (you should be able to find one)

Thanks for linking that, good to know what universal parts are available.

It looks like emgo 46-68734 would have been close to what I was looking for, but I'd be concerned about the choke lever.

I ended up ordering an ebay part because apparently the connectors are the exact same except for 1 wire:

quote:

Left handlebar controls

You can graft an F-model blinker and highbeam control set onto your EX250E. The choke cable end and lever fit right into the newer control box. The electrical control assembly physically plugs into the wiring harness on the bike, but some of the wires don't go to the right places. The horn, clutch, and blinker wires all match, but the highbeam switch does not.

The newer highbeam control has three wires; the 1986-7 has four. The fourth wire is for the "Reserve Lighting Device", a box that automatically reverts to a working filament when one burns out.

It's possible to use a small paperclip to pop the pins out of the control wiring connector and match colors with the wiring harness on the bike. Since the new controls are missing the reserve lighting wire, a pin is left missing on the connector. As this is really not a necessary part of the bike, it doesn't hurt that you will lose it.

mewse
May 2, 2006

A box of used parts showed up today including the new left handlebar controls.

I re-pinned it to match the colours of the old one on the connector.

Now my headlight straight up doesn't work, I'm going to have to do a lot more work to figure out what's wrong. Hopefully it's just the bulb? The high beam light doesn't come on after flipping the switch tho, and there's supposed to be a "headlight" warning light on the dash when it burns out that's also not lighting up.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Do you have the earth and power/high light wires around the right way? Use a multimeter to verify you have power and earth coming out of the appropriate bulb pins for a start.

My guess would be you've gotten a couple of terminals on the connector in the wrong order. Sometimes the wires don't exactly match, due to whatever arcane production related reason, and you have to manually make sure everything lines up by verifying what wires do what on your switch.

Or the bulb is blown.

mewse
May 2, 2006

86-87 (bike I have):



87-07 (bike the new switch came from):



In the lower left you can see the older dimmer switch uses 4 wires and the newer one uses 3. I'm 99% sure I got it wired correctly. There's a problem with that block in the upper left ("reserve lighting device") that was completely removed for the newer model. In the old one, blue/yellow goes to that block, in the new one it goes to the junction box. The blue/orange wire goes to the reserve lighting device and is missing on the newer one.

Using a multimeter on the headlight socket is a good idea.

I did check the 10A fuse for headlight and it's ok, swapping it with the spare didn't change anything.

mewse
May 2, 2006

Swapped the headlight bulb for a new one and no fix. Used a multimeter on the bulb connector and not getting voltage.

Tested continuity on the old dimmer switch and it seems that it was always working:



So I put it back on (since it has the extra wire for the "reserve device") and couldn't get voltages, or even get the high beam indicator to light up on the dash. e: looking at the wiring diagram I guess if red/black isn't providing 12v to the headlight then it won't light the dash indicator either. e2: err black is the negative wire

Spent like 20 minutes tracing the wiring harness around the bike and unplugging/replugging connectors to no avail. I'm not sure where this reserve lighting device is located unless it's under the battery box.

mewse fucked around with this message at 01:01 on Jul 28, 2019

mewse
May 2, 2006

I might be the biggest noob ever. The headlight doesn’t work unless the bike is running :negative:

e: new handlebar controls work and are much nicer than the old ones. Turn signals, horn, choke, and high beam all functioning

mewse fucked around with this message at 17:25 on Jul 28, 2019

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

mewse posted:

I might be the biggest noob ever. The headlight doesn’t work unless the bike is running :negative:

e: new handlebar controls work and are much nicer than the old ones. Turn signals, horn, choke, and high beam all functioning

:drat:

mewse
May 2, 2006

Old vs new

mewse
May 2, 2006

It doesn't matter how ugly she is on the inside right?

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

why did you smash a sardine into the fairing though

mewse
May 2, 2006

That's what that smell was?

mewse
May 2, 2006

With the fairing fixed I finally put everything back together.







I think it's basically roadworthy. I want to replace the chain adjusters but not sure it's worth it before going for the safety inspection.

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

that looks rad as hell

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

The future is here!!!

Good stuff.

Slide Hammer
May 15, 2009

You did it! It looks great. It's funny how modern the rear looks, what with the way all the current sportbikes have their tail extensions sticking out.

Dagen H
Mar 19, 2009

Hogertrafikomlaggningen
Fine job.

Fifty Three
Oct 29, 2007

Hell yeah.

mewse
May 2, 2006

Got an appointment on the 22nd (~2 weeks away) for a safety inspection. Want to put chain adjusters on and do a test ride before that. He mentioned DOT logos on the turn signal lenses? Is that a thing?

mewse
May 2, 2006

Put the new (to me) rear axle adjusters on. Put split pins in both axles. Ordered OEM turn signal lenses because one of mine is cracked and one is bikemaster without DOT markings. Hoping now that I have a JIS #2 bit I will be able to get them installed without destroying anything.

Phy
Jun 27, 2008



Fun Shoe
This is a great thread, mewse, and your bike looks killer now. Hopefully you'll get at least a month of tearing it up before the weather hits.

Is the inspection a one-time thing, or is it yearly out there?

mewse
May 2, 2006

Phy posted:

This is a great thread, mewse, and your bike looks killer now. Hopefully you'll get at least a month of tearing it up before the weather hits.

Is the inspection a one-time thing, or is it yearly out there?

Thanks! The safety is a one-time thing that the seller is usually supposed to do in order to get it insured

mewse
May 2, 2006

Safety inspection is tomorrow, feeling nervous. Luckily the OEM turn signal lenses showed up today so I went and got those installed, now they all say DOT on them.

Super glued a tab back on to one of the fairings, I don't expect it to hold for long but as long as it's ok for tomorrow that should be fine. Was worrying about reinforcing it with fiberglass but this will do for now, unless it fails the safety lol.

Also finally googled how to route the coolant reservoir overflow hose, it goes forward and under the carbs, so I got that attached.

mewse fucked around with this message at 02:05 on Aug 22, 2019

mewse
May 2, 2006

:siren: passed the safety and got a plate :siren:

The mechanic warned about a few things: front fender is rubbing the tire, brake rotors are near end-of-life, and there might be an oil leak. I'm 99% sure it's residual oil from before I installed a new oil filter with new o-rings, because it's not dripping anymore.

Don't really know how to fix the front fender without getting smaller tires. Universal fender??

e: also according to kawasaki database the vin says it's an 87 :rip:

mewse fucked around with this message at 02:52 on Aug 23, 2019

Renaissance Robot
Oct 10, 2010

Bite my furry metal ass
Any chance of grinding out the holes in the fender where the bolts go so you can shuffle it a few millimetres further up the forks?

mewse
May 2, 2006

Renaissance Robot posted:

Any chance of grinding out the holes in the fender where the bolts go so you can shuffle it a few millimetres further up the forks?

That’s a great idea, I should be able to drill new holes on either side. I will have to look into this

mewse
May 2, 2006

Renaissance Robot posted:

Any chance of grinding out the holes in the fender where the bolts go so you can shuffle it a few millimetres further up the forks?

This worked, I went and bought some step bits and made new holes about an inch lower on the fender, totally clears the tire now.

With that done I went for a short ride around my neighbourhood today. Nothing spectacular failed. I stalled out once or twice because it needs a bit of gas coming from a dead stop, don't know how normal that is.

What should my next project be???????

Jonny 290
May 5, 2005



[ASK] me about OS/2 Warp
ex500 obviously

good work

mewse
May 2, 2006

Jonny 290 posted:

ex500 obviously

good work

I should stay off kijiji until my finances improve. I saw a couple project bikes I wanted to take a crack at (late 70s hondas). Was going to reply to your post saying an ex500 is too boring as a next project but there's a minty one in my city for like 2k canadian :rip:

My current plan is to learn to ride on this bike and then maybe get a sv650 or one of those new katanas once my car is paid off

I saw a busted-rear end ninja 250 being sold for $150, 5 hours away. Might be worth snagging as a parts bike :thunk:

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

I know 70's bikes seem like they'll be just like your ninja only cruder and older, but they aren't. They are terrible pieces of poo poo where even the absolute best ones are loaded with factory faults and unfixable designs, and Hondas have the benefit of having zero parts availability and non-standard seals all over the place. 80's or newer and you can't go wrong.

Renaissance Robot
Oct 10, 2010

Bite my furry metal ass

Slavvy posted:

I know 70's bikes seem like they'll be just like your ninja only cruder and older, but they aren't. They are terrible pieces of poo poo where even the absolute best ones are loaded with factory faults and unfixable designs, and Hondas have the benefit of having zero parts availability and non-standard seals all over the place. 80's or newer and you can't go wrong.

Restomod a 70s bike with parts from an 80s bike.

mewse
May 2, 2006

I went for a very short ride yesterday and it appears my speedometer isn't working. I think I might be missing a part in the front wheel hub that's supposed to run the sensor. Parts diagram shows a 23 tooth cog that I don't recall seeing.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

mewse posted:

I went for a very short ride yesterday and it appears my speedometer isn't working. I think I might be missing a part in the front wheel hub that's supposed to run the sensor. Parts diagram shows a 23 tooth cog that I don't recall seeing.

It fell out and rolled under a bench when you took the front wheel off.

mewse
May 2, 2006

Slavvy posted:

It fell out and rolled under a bench when you took the front wheel off.

It’s definitely this or a PO doing the same thing. Looking at eBay princes for speedo hubs, that parts bike is looking mighty attractive

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

stomp clap


You are the only person I've ever witnessed completely rebuild/restore a bike to (near) completion and then ride it as a first bike without disappearing into the ether. A drat unicorn.

mewse
May 2, 2006

HenryJLittlefinger posted:

You are the only person I've ever witnessed completely rebuild/restore a bike to (near) completion and then ride it as a first bike without disappearing into the ether. A drat unicorn.

Thanks, I'm glad I saw this through. I didn't start a thread until I got the engine running because that was my benchmark at the time as to whether I'd be able to restore the bike.

I didn't even know what a valve adjustment was when I started the thread. As I've shared my progress on the build it's been reciprocal because goons shared their expertise helping me navigate problems I've never dealt with.

The latest to the bike is:

I received a $15 ebay front fender and it sucks as expected. It's too narrow. I could probably cut it in half and fiberglass it to be wider, but not sure it's worth it.

I've ordered some red marine vinyl and a 12"x12"x.25" piece of smoked polycarbonate - I'm going to try re-upholstering the side covers because they are dingy and discoloured, and fab a new windshield by putting the panel on top of my old windshield and hitting it with a heat gun. My old windshield seems to be entirely spiderwebbed if the light catches it right. Total UV destruction

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

stomp clap


Paint the inside of your windscreen black. From the outside, it looks shiny and black and the uv-hosed stuff is almost invisible.

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mewse
May 2, 2006

It's also cracked/broken around the mounting holes on one side so I'm really unhappy with it and want new polycarbonate

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