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Slide Hammer
May 15, 2009

Doing valve clearances on an EX250 engine? Buy a long 9mm 1/4" drive socket. You will need it for the valves on the exhaust side, because there is no clearance for a standard socket in there. You'll be right up against the head rim.

Edit: Gave wrong size. It's 9mm, not 8mm. The socket I have that did the job was 2" long and it was the perfect length.

Slide Hammer fucked around with this message at 02:58 on Jun 22, 2018

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Slide Hammer
May 15, 2009

Loosen everything again, then do that bolt first. But don't tighten it down all the way, just get the threads in there. Then do the same for every other bolt. This gives you that crucial fraction of a millimeter of wiggle room.

The fairings are this way too. Get three bolts into the gas tank, fourth one doesn't line up.

P.S. Since you have this older model, I hope that you've read about matching up those fairing-to-gas-tank bolts appropriately. If you use the long ones up top, you can puncture the tank!

Slide Hammer
May 15, 2009

Those repainted panels look really nice. The original white is probably faded somewhat after 30+ years.

Slide Hammer
May 15, 2009

Noooooooooooo.

Are you sure the bead's just not seated properly?

Slide Hammer
May 15, 2009

This bike is coming back to life.

I need one of those bike forum "cheers" smileys here.

Slide Hammer
May 15, 2009

This might be overkill, but if the McMaster Carr bolts you ordered are steel, you might want to coat them in a thin film of copper antiseize before mounting them, because of the reaction between steel and the aluminum engine. I have heard that this reaction between the two metals will bind the bolt threads to the aluminum over time, and the antiseize keeps this from happening. (I read about this happening to boats/boat engines, where people regularly opt to use stainless steel fasteners)

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Slide Hammer
May 15, 2009

You did it! It looks great. It's funny how modern the rear looks, what with the way all the current sportbikes have their tail extensions sticking out.

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