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If someone local has a 3D printer, they could print custom grommets in flexible filament to fit your LED lights.
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Jun 16, 2018 23:36
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I didn't realize that was possible, cool! I found this picture I forgot to post. Last week I shoved a screwdriver under my thumbnail, fortunately I was wearing nitryl gloves so I didn't pack dirt in. Anyway, whenever getting a fingernail injury they (whoever that is) always say to put pressure on it. I'm a busy man and pressure doesn't discriminate.  Also the NOS transmission bearing arrived in the mailbox today. If Grainger didn't forget to put some of the bearings in my last shipment, I could get the transmission assembled.
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Jun 17, 2018 02:48
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You know those days where you spend all day getting way less than you wanted done? Today was that day. I started up where I left off Saturday afternoon, swapping the side fan shrouds from the blown engine. Since I'm missing the top shroud I made one out of aluminum flashing, it's a bit crude, but the engine will like it.  Next I went to assemble the transmission. I figured if I got everything assembled besides the bits that need the three bearings which showed up in the mail around 4 I'd be able to finish the transmission. Turns out the output side of the planetaries use two bearings each, not just one. I had to order those, they should be here tomorrow afternoon. Kinda sucks I'm in the boonies at the end of the line for every carrier. Here's the weird NOS bearing I got from Amazon. It doesn't use a bearing cage, it just has the balls in it, the other side is crimped over. I'll have to get a better pic of the old one.  Input power from the clutch goes here, this is part of the forward/reverse gearset.  The forward/reverse shift fork was worn to the point it was about to fail.   I couldn't really fix the problem too well besides just cleaning it up, there's pretty bad rust in the collar this rides in. iForge just got a lathe and is chomping at the cud for projects, so at some point I might take a bunch of stuff down there to freshen up, should be fine for now. All better.  I'm the one who marked that with OUT while taking it apart. Now that I understand how it works, it's pretty obvious which way it goes, but at the time it wasn't. Installed back in its natural habitat.  Originally there was a brass pin that held the shift fork to the rod, this kinda sucked since it can't be pushed out the back side since there isn't room. I had to drill it out. Instead I'm using a set screw to hold the shift fork to the shaft, turned out to work really well since the shift fork had to be installed AFTER the other stuff...  That ring thing the shift fork rides in is kinda sad, that's what ate the fingers in the first place. This is as far as I could get without the bearing that goes on the top of the transmission.  I then cleaned up the planetary gearsets which is when I discovered I didn't order enough bearings. At this point I got a text from Walmart saying my tires were ready to pick up. 45 minute drive to Walmart, got the tires and a new battery, then I went to Lowes for some stupid things. It's cheaper than my local hardware store, but I hate the place. I probably spent 20 minutes wandering around, failing to find either what I was looking for or an associate. Finally I stumbled across what I wanted at the same time someone came over to "help" me. We did the whole "what are you using it for," and "it's not going to work for that" dance, then I headed home. Decided I'd rebuild all the hubs tonight, boy what an optimist I've become. The astute among us may notice I've flipped this image horizontally, I did that so the direction of all the parts would match in the next few pictures. The bulbus bit to the right of the bearing is where the seal rides in the hub, the left side goes inside the vehicle to the sprocket.  I've kinda been wondering what retains the bearing from moving, but didn't think too hard about it. I assumed the whole shaft started the diameter of the bulbus part and was turned down to size, and as such tried removing the bearing to the left. It refused to budge. I have a pipe that fits perfectly over the bulbus part and it was JUST NOT COMING. Figured it was really stuck so I cut the bearing with a grinder. Once I chiseled the inner part in half it still wouldn't slide off, at that point I knew there was something funny going on. Cut the inner race in half and pulled the two pieces apart. Upon removal of the inner race I realized that uhh...  I was taking it apart in the wrong direction. The bulbus thing is NOT part of the shaft, durr. Fortunately I also have a pipe the right size to pound the collar off. I don't have a press, it's probably a good thing I didn't try using 20 tons of pressure to force the bearing the wrong direction... Once the collar came off I noted there are actually THREE different diameters of the shaft.  The diameter to the left, the diameter for the bearing and the collar, and then a smaller diameter to the far right. They aren't that different, just a few thousanths, but wtf. I guess it makes sense the shaft wasn't turned down from a large size, that's a lot of waste in material. The stepped approach makes it easier to install the bearing and the collar for sure, but it's just another process in manufacture. Anyway, by the time I cleaned up the mess I'd made of things and assembled the hub with a new bearing I was hangry, had hit my hand with a hammer, and pissed off. I only got but one hub done tonight.  I still don't have the seals, but they should just pop in once they arrive. No big rush there.
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Jun 19, 2018 00:15
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From the comfort of my armchair it looks like you're making great progress honestly.
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Jun 19, 2018 08:18
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chrisgt posted:I probably spent 20 minutes wandering around, failing to find either what I was looking for or an associate. Finally I stumbled across what I wanted at the same time someone came over to "help" me. We did the whole "what are you using it for," and "it's not going to work for that" dance, then I headed home. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ECQwLdYobM
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Jun 19, 2018 13:34
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I was on a roll today and forgot to take many pictures. Got all six of these stupid things done. They really kicked my rear end. Still don't have the seals, don't buy from Autoplicity on amazon, they suck at actually putting your poo poo in a box and mailing it.  At some point half way through I stopped caring about cleaning the hubs except for the mounting face. That's why some are shinier than others. I fabricobbled new transmission mounts, welded them to the frame, and ovaled out the holes for the flange mount bearings. The originals had a 3-1/4" hole spacing, however it seems these days 3" is common and anything that was 3-1/4" was in the $30 or $40 range. I figured I'd just order the $10 3" ones and put 1/8" of oval into all 12 holes. Kinda sucked, but worth it. Wire wheeled the frame and a bunch of other stuff and painted it with magnet paints chassis saver. The stuff is wicked expensive and I wouldn't have bought it specifically for this project, but I had it for some car work.  I ordered the wheels, adapters, and steering pucks some time middle of last week. They just sent me a shipping confirmation today, then a heavy box showed up in a brown truck. Either their system sucks at sending updates or United Package Squishers just got REALLY drat FAST. I'm gonna go with the former. I have to go buy valve stems tomorrow then try and get the tires on, one or two might be fine but all six will probably suck. Hey Slow_Is_Fast, will your tire machine do 8" rims...?  I'm used to car wheels, these things are so cute and wide. Also today I was riding my motorized bicycle to the other shop that's about 1/4 mile away, it's up a big hill and down a big hill. Going down the big hill the already questionable brakes completely went and turned into no brakes. I built the thing around 2007 and haven't really done any maintenance to it ever since. The bearings in the steering are GONE, the tires are so dry rotted I don't know how they still exist, there's no muffler, no kill switch, the throttle sticks wide open, and now apparently it doesn't have brakes. I used to ride this thing everywhere, it's a complete blast and at 45mph absolutely terrifying. I don't think a stock one will go that fast, I ported and polished this thing.  Once the attex is done and I modify one of my crappy boat trailers to be an attex trailer, I kinda wanna see if I can make the original engine run again. It would be a blast on a scooter.
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Jun 20, 2018 00:57
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4gZb73h5evc
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Jun 20, 2018 01:02
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accurate.
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Jun 20, 2018 01:55
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chrisgt posted:Hey Slow_Is_Fast, will your tire machine do 8" rims...? I can measure the machine tomorrow or you can bring them by IDGAF
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Jun 20, 2018 05:08
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cakesmith handyman posted:From the comfort of my armchair it looks like you're making great progress honestly.
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Jun 20, 2018 10:40
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Just found this thread, and it is awesome. Progress is going crazy fast from my perspective. 
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Jun 20, 2018 14:52
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You dont need a tire machine for split rims, you just put the two pieces together in the tire and bolt them up
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Jun 20, 2018 15:17
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:You dont need a tire machine for split rims, you just put the two pieces together in the tire and bolt them up Isn't that a weld line and those are just new bolts for installing them?
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Jun 20, 2018 22:00
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,
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Jun 20, 2018 22:13
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cakesmith handyman posted:Isn't that a weld line and those are just new bolts for installing them? even if they are, a post in a vise and your bare hands (maybe a small bar for the last bite if they're being jerks) are the best tool for installing those tires. And yea, since they have a drop center on them you're probably right. chrisgt posted:United Package Squishers Haven't heard that one before, owns Turbo Fondant fucked around with this message at 02:09 on Jun 21, 2018 |
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Jun 21, 2018 02:06
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I feel like I'm gonna be in a comma after all the hard work on this stupid thing. Jim Silly-Balls posted:You dont need a tire machine for split rims, you just put the two pieces together in the tire and bolt them up cakesmith handyman posted:Isn't that a weld line and those are just new bolts for installing them? They're not split rims, split rims don't split in the middle anyway, the outer lip comes off one side. The shiny bolts are the lug bolts on the hub adapters. Split rims have a really terrifying ring thing that holds the whole works together and likes to come out and kill people. I'm only gonna be running about 2psi in the tires anyway, which is why I needed beadlock rims. I coulda spent like $150/rim and got ones that unbolt, but eh, just got beadlocks (ie. safety beads like what car rims have had for 60 years). I guess that's a big deal on ATVs. I digress. Finally got the transmission assembled and back into the cradle. It's kind of a pain in the rear end getting all 4 disc rotors lined up at the same time without knocking the brake pads out. I wonder how many people have forgotten to put the loving CVT belt on BEFORE dropping it in the cradle... Bonus point if it's in the vehicle and the chains were also hooked up before realizing the mistake...  First time it's had fresh oil in a very long time.  So it STILL loving LEAKS OIL. There's a concentric shaft, clutch inputs power on the same side as one of the outputs. There's no seal between those two shafts, just a bearing. I'm not sure if the bearing is supposed to do all the sealing (clearly it isn't) or if there was an oil seal at some point that someone removed and didn't re-install. Not really sure. All I know is that I'm gonna have to completely disassemble the thing so I can measure the ID of the outer concentric shaft, then find an oil seal that'll fit. I'm gonna just send it for now and make sure nothing else is wrong. With the worn out shift fork fingers, the shift lever moved too far and the spring/ball were long long gone.  Here's the external shift lever upside down, showing the detents on the transmission. It should just happily click between forward/neutral/reverse. I used a ball out of an old bearing from the transmission and the spring out of a pen. The spring probably isn't springy enough, but drat does it have a nice click shifting between gears. It's the kind of click that's satisfying right to the core, I have problems. The engine mount was broken, I was way too lazy to actually fix this properly so it's probably going to break again.  All stuck back together. The rear engine mount used to be this thing  Hard as I looked, I absolutely could NOT find anything like it. This looks wonky, but it should get the job done  Set the engine and transmission on the frame. Had serious thoughts about bolting the axles on and taking it for a rip.  Dragged the body outside to clean it up so I could do all the repairs. Also it looks really nice wet, I'm definitely gonna try buffing it like someone suggested on the first page.  Here we have some cracks, this was under an old repair. They used bondo with tiger hair in it, I cracked a this doing the axles. Figure it's a good time to repair it now while I can easily tip the body on its side with good access inside and out. I drilled stop crack holes, cleaned out the crack, all that good stuff. I have a sheet of black ABS plastic I cut patches out of. Cut it to size, heated it with the heat gun until it was bendy, then slapped it on the area to be patched and let it solidify into the right shape. From there I acetone welded it in place. Around the edges I used sealall which is an MEK based contact cement that should do a great job adhering to ABS. I discovered sealall because I needed to shadetree a boat carburetor back together. Ethanol doesn't eat sealall and it's great for fuel systems.  This hole looks suspiciously like a chain decided to gently caress off.  That would seriously suck while driving through water.. One thing that kinda bothered me was I had to drill out all the holes in the wheel adapters. I guess there was some sort of heavy duty option which mine fortunately has. I'm not sure exactly what it entails, but it's at least solid axles and large lug studs. If I had the hollow axles they would almost certainly have been destroyed when I had to hammer them out of the sprockets. However for compatibility reasons, the adapters are made with the smaller size lug stud in mind. The only drillbit I had in the correct size was in the bottom of the "repeat after me: never loan drillbits" box, so I had to sharpen it, then it was smooth sailing. I really don't have much left to do, unless you count retrofitting an oil seal into the transmission. I have to mount all 6 tires on the rims, I predict several hours of being pissed off and swearing, no I'm not taking a video of the process. The gas tank is in all likelyhood hosed, but I'm gonna be desperate and try to recover it anyway. If it's too far rusted to be saved I'm not sure what I'm gonna do. It's a pretty simple shape, I can probably fabricate a new one. Oh I also have to buy valve stems BEFORE I PUT THE TIRES ON THE RIMS. Everything else is just assembly, cutting chain to length, figuring out what nuts and bolts in the mcmaster carr box go where, futzing around, etc. I also have to do something with the exhaust. What I do depends on whether or not the tires that, according to the greybeard at richard's relics, "totally won't rub the muffler on a first gen." I think they will rub, I guess there's only one way to find out. I can't even call him up and be angry when they rub, I bought the tires he recommended at walmart for half his price... EDIT: I also have to build a new wiring harness. Should be pretty straight forward, lights, start, charge, and the bilge pump which has yet to arrive. Just one more stupid thing to do, though.
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Jun 21, 2018 02:10
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Why not tubes? Then you can ultra low psi to your hearts content!
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Jun 21, 2018 03:48
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My RV90 has split rims that split right down the center, which is why I assumed those were the same. My RV90 should not be taken as the engineering standard for all of vehicledom, I guess.
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Jun 21, 2018 14:04
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Kaptainballistik posted:Why not tubes? Then you can ultra low psi to your hearts content! With low pressure, don't tires with tubes risk pulling the stem out if the tire spins on the rim? That could be a problem since these tires are so low pressure.
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Jun 21, 2018 17:32
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Rimlocks/beadlocks should prevent the tire from spinning at low psi, you'll see them on basically every dirt bike or atv.
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Jun 21, 2018 18:38
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I honestly don't know anything about ATV tires and running low pressures. People on the 6x6 forums seem to run the setup I'm using with a decent amount of success, so I'm gonna go with it. If problems arise I'll go from there. Honestly I really don't plan on pushing the thing too hard. I don't really need an ATV, I'd rather ride my mountain bike on the trails anyway (something I can't wait to do once this project is done). Today I had to run to some stores and get some stuff, do some errands, pretend I'm an adult, etc. I didn't get started until about noon, so the work I did get done was pretty cramped in. First off, the body repairs I did seem to be sturdy, I'm happy about that. From there on out everything fought me and honestly, there isn't (hopefully) going to be anything too exciting with the re-assembly. It's just putting the poo poo back in that I took out and spent 2 weeks rebuilding. Anyway, I started by mounting all the tires. It wasn't really that bad, probably only took 45 minutes.  You can see some of the old tires stacked in the background, these things are way meatier, I'm excited. Dropped in the frame, I have a picture something like this going in the other direction, seems like a long time ago. I didn't bother getting the inside of the hull squeaky clean, it's just going to get oily again and you can't see it when everything is closed up and running.  Did a lot of cursing and swearing, all the hubs are back in place.  Looks just a tad better than this  Pro tip, install these before the frame goes in the body  So after I got all the hubs in place I wanted to throw some tires on to see how it looked. They fit great except under the muffler, they rub really bad. WTF, there's WAY MORE ROOM on all the other 5. Take a look at this.  If you look really close, you'll notice the whole back left side has sagged down. It's not an illusion, both rear axles are the same height off the ground and perfectly level, that side is just sagged. I'm guessing that over time with the heat from the muffler and probably exhaust leaks inside the body that it's slowly melted and sagged down. What a pain in the dick. The tire does fit without the muffler in place, but it's closer to the body than the other tires. Not really completely sure what I'm going to do about this yet, cutting into the body and raising the muffler isn't practical, piping it out the back might get in the way of the outboard, dunno. Probably going to pipe it out the back and mount the muffler somewhere externally where it can't melt the body more. I could also try to find a smaller muffler, but that costs more money and will make it louder. I could mount the muffler inside right off the engine and just run a pipe out, but then I'll have the issue of too much heat and probably overheat the engine. I can't put a stack straight up because the whole back has to lift open, but holy poo poo would that be awesome. Maybe I could make a seal between the pipe and the exhaust stack like what dump trucks have... I can't really visualize too well what the space looks like until I get the engine in place. I did get the trans in place.  Yes, I used the sky hook to get it in there, call be a bitch, I don't care. Home sweet home (until it comes back out to fix the leak....)  After getting the trans in I went to install the chains. I was having issues with the chain staying on a sprocket and is then when I realized what I did... There's ANSI 40 pitch chain and there 420  pitch motorcycle chain. 420 chain is about 1/16" narrower than 40, so if you put 40 on 420 sprockets you'd probably never know, if you do it the other way around you're a loving idiot like me. Between that and the failure to chooch on hub seals (more on that later), I threw my tools down in disgust and called it a day. TSC should have 40 pitch chain, so I'll leave bright and early tomorrow and drive out there. It's about 45 minutes, I'll also stop into the bike store and get a pressure gauge for fatbikes, they go up to like 15psi or so and should work for getting 2psi in my tires. Then I have to try and return the incorrect chain, I hate returning things because I feel bad.The hub seals I ordered from autoplicity on amazon... First off it took them a few days to put the poo poo in a box and drop it in the mail, whatever, I got a package from them today. Rip it open with excitement and ... it's a bushing of some sort. I can't even find the part when I put the part number into their website, must be a really hard part to find. Too bad I don't want it. I'll call them up and they'll hopefully overnight me the correct parts, otherwise I'll bitch and moan to amazon, that's usually fairly effective. Fortunately I can drive it without those, the bearings in the hubs are sealed, I just can't take it in water or it'll probably leak. I also don't wanna ruin the bearings in the hubs because they're miserable to replace. Hopefully tomorrow I can acquire the correct chain, drop in the engine, make a wiring harness, and take it for a drive. Don't need no stupid muffler to go for a drive, but it does need to be fixed...
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Jun 22, 2018 02:25
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Oh also, the gas tank... Yea, it's bad. I think the sides and top are ok, but sitting full of water has ruined the bottom. I started going at it with the wire wheel today and It's extremely thin to the point I'm worried about holes I can't see, or holes forming in the near future. Or holes appearing when I fill it full of old bolts and strap it to a wheel on my car... I saw a video on youtube where someone filled a gas tank with old bolts or rocks or something, jacked up one wheel of a truck, and ratchet strapped the tank to that wheel. Then they let it sit in drive and tumble the tank around... I can't find it now, but it was amazing. I'm gonna just cut the bottom off and weld a new one on. Shouldn't be too bad. Then I'll be able to get in there and give the rest of it a good wire wheel.
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Jun 22, 2018 02:34
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I wouldn't drive too much or too hard without a muffler on it. Two strokes don't like not having everything attached. Also remember if you tuned it without the muffler you'll need to retune once it's on.
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Jun 22, 2018 13:35
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That's assuming it's even going to run with the muffler off. It might be more work tuning it to work without the muffler than it would be finding a replacement. edit: I forgot OP owns one of those chinese bicycle 2 strokes and can obviously get this thing to run sans muffler
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Jun 23, 2018 00:00
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iwentdoodie posted:I wouldn't drive too much or too hard without a muffler on it. Two strokes don't like not having everything attached. Also remember if you tuned it without the muffler you'll need to retune once it's on. Breakfast Feud posted:That's assuming it's even going to run with the muffler off. It might be more work tuning it to work without the muffler than it would be finding a replacement. Yea, running a 2-stroke with an open header is bad, fortunately running it with an open header would also light the body on fire, couple feet of piping out the side is enough back pressure to keep it happy. Also it already did run with an open header in the very first progress post way back on page 1. So what happened today... I left around 7.30am to hit TSC and get 40 pitch chain and master links, fuel hose and filter at the parts store, and something else I forget. I got pulled over for speeding, 41 in a 35. Kinda weird, cop didn't even notice my car isn't inspected. It's not that the mercedes won't pass inspection, it's probably the least lovely car I've ever owned, it's not that I can't afford the $12.50, it's not that I don't have the time, I just can't be bothered. I didn't get a ticket for speeding, either. Got home, made sure the chain was correct, and then went to attack the bent body. It's been bothering me, I can't unsee it. I figured it took a lot of heat to bend it down, why not give it a lot of heat and a ratchet strap.  The first issue I ran into was that someone took my propane cylinder camping or some poo poo and left it empty, I hope they had raw burgers and got sick on the last day. (un)fortunately I didn't have the right fittings on hand to hook it up to the propane supply for the shop heater. Anyone who has seen the amazingly sketchy grill I bring to rallys can probably guess what's going to happen... Several years ago, my girlfriend and I went camping on Grand Manan, a little island off the coast of Canada. We brought my two burner coleman grill and cooked dinner the first night. Next morning I went to fire it up to cook breakfast and the second I hit the ignite button it literally blew up in my face. A lot of poking around later I determined the regulator had stuck open, so I went to the only hardware store on the island, bought the cheapest grill regulator they had (which was like $25, thanks canada), and some nylon water hose. It's been like that for many years. With that inspiration in mind...  I used propane not mapp gas, I'm not THAT stupid. Yes, I'm aware the regulator on the heater end is doing nothing in this instance, it's not hurting anything being there, either. I also had to remove the nozzle from the blowtorch head to let it flow enough.  I'm not a barbarian, I propped the tank up properly so I wouldn't get liquid gas into the reddy heater. This setup work great for about 5 minutes until the flame petered out and died. Apparently these little cylinders weren't designed to dispense gas that quickly and it had frozen right up, all frosty and freezing cold to the point the vapor pressure dropped off so far the heater stopped. Oh well, it was a good try... Onward. I spent hours fighting with the chains, getting the transmission set is a particular pain in the rear end. This is the side that had a hole in the bottom of the body where it appears a chain went south.  It was rubbing on the trans cradle, there was evidence of it doing that in the past, something wasn't adding up. I still don't know exactly what the issue is, I'm guessing a few things are bent just a tiny amount enough to compound into that being a problem. I also installed the bearings onto the axles just a tad further than they were before, didn't help the situation. Ultimately the sprocket needed to slide inward a tad, I was pissed off by this point, and I have a die grinder...  What was once round is now oval. What's that you say? that's probably going to slide?? I CAN'T HEAR YOU OVER THE SOUND OF MY LINCOLN 140 WHAT WHAT WHAT???? I then ran into a really obnoxious issue, I needed a half link. I wanted to grab some just in case but TSC didn't have any, the motorcycle shop I had to drive past didn't have any, so I figured "bah, I won't need no stinking half links." So when I was balls deep in getting the chains cut to length and installed, what did I loving need... I called half a dozen snowmobile shops and stuff, nobody had a 40 pitch half link. So I went and poked around the pile of old rusty seized up chain. Jackpot.  Just to the left of the master link we have a half link, it's hard to spot through the grime. I removed the precious treasure and disassembled, a sad sight for sure.  Cleaned up with the wire brush it looks better, but what the picture doesn't show is the inner tube that the roller rides on has a massive hole, definitely gonna be the weak link. If this chain breaks it's the chain that previously went through the bottom of the body. Do not want. My solution was to pull a link of new chain apart and rob just the roller and the tube, all set, looks good.  With that waste of time bullshit out of the way, all the chains were in. Took WAY longer than I wished it would, what's new.  Chains and control sticks in place. Cue me sitting on the transmission going "brap brap brap." Got the engine in place.  Dropped in the battery and hooked up some battery cables and the throttle cable. Touching the red wire to positive cranks the engine over. I'll deal with making a wiring harness tomorrow. At this point I pushed the thing over to the door so I could fire it up and put it in gear. I wanted to make sure it was going to drive the hubs and chains and stuff without anything flying apart. I should mention I also piped the exhaust out the side, just a straight pipe for now. I didn't have enough pipe to hook up the muffler. I have a really stupid idea for that, tomorrow will tell... Tied up some other odds and ends before it came time to put the wheels and tires on. Before I could do that, I had to fix all the lug studs, I couldn't get a nut threaded onto any of them.  Fortunately I knew someone who had the right die, drove 20 minutes out there after dinner. Of course I couldn't use a die handle since it would hit the other lugs, so I had to play the stupid visegrips game. Anyway, got all 18 done and...  There it sits, rubber side down on fresh tires for the first time likely since it left the factory 50 years ago. It's still missing headlights and the front rub rail is coming off, but drat does it look like a happy little creature. And yes, the tires are on the correct way. Everyone is going to tell me they're backwards, they aren't. They need to be that way around to cup the water and swim, they dig in and don't work as well mounting the "correct" way around. I still can't take it in the water, though, autoplicity can eat a big loving dick. Ok, time for a rant. I called them this morning and was like "hey, I got the wrong thing, can you overnight me the right thing please?" Any company with good customer service who gave a poo poo would be like "yea, really sorry about that, no problem." But no, they told me I had to wait until they recieved the incorrect part, did an investigation, and then they'd mail me the correct part. I should have it by the MIDDLE OF NEXT WEEK (Not like, this coming Wednesday, a week from then). So I said "ok cool, I'll go call Amazon customer support and see if they can help." Dude did some serious back pedaling and I hung up. Amazon dude was awesome, the same part is sold through amazon fulfillment services for a few bucks more so he matched the lower price, sent me the poo poo, and said he'd deal with these dickheads. Anyway, I still need to figure out why it doesn't like to idle. I'm not gonna bother messing with it until I have the muffler because, as stated, two strokes need to be tuned to their specific exhaust setup. After I had the wheels on I rolled the thing outside, fired it up and went for a drive. I obviously know HOW the controls work because I just finished rebuilding everything... But actually OPERATING the controls.... really weird. Didn't help that I'm up a long narrow twisty driveway, it was pitch black out, I didn't have a flashlight, so if the engine died I was gonna have a bad time. Anyway, IT loving DRIVES HOLY poo poo MUCH EXCITE. Drove itself back into the garage and put it to bed for the night. Tomorrow I need to put a muffler on it, make a wiring harness for it, re-tension and realign some things, tune the carb, and deal with the gas tank. The fact that it goes and stops again is ridiculously exciting, it's gonna be hard to get anything done tomorrow without half-assing it to go for another joyride. chrisgt fucked around with this message at 04:45 on Jun 23, 2018 |
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Jun 23, 2018 04:41
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Jun 23, 2018 04:50
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chrisgt posted:IT loving DRIVES HOLY poo poo MUCH EXCITE  This thing is rad, really curious to see how it handles in the water. You're kicking rear end & taking names on this rebuild.
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Jun 23, 2018 05:18
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June 7th "I bought something weird" June 23rd "functional restoration nearly complete" My man!
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Jun 23, 2018 06:20
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Yeah this went incredibly fast. Awesome work
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Jun 23, 2018 12:28
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If it was anyone else's project we'd have this instead:cakesmith handyman posted:June 7th, 2018 "I bought something weird" This thread is blazing fast. Nice work! I'm still getting some weird feeling looking at the thing, something about the body and the mechanicals just makes me want to think it's powerwheels size, I'm having a real hard time remembering what scale everything is. Anybody else?
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Jun 23, 2018 12:32
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Really impressive rebuild man, congrats on getting it mobile! But wait, did un-sagging the body using a shop heater and straps actually work?? That sounds like something I might think to do but never be able to pull off successfully. So cool
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Jun 23, 2018 13:54
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Holy poo poo!
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Jun 23, 2018 15:05
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Fuckina man, nice work. I've had some delicious chicken and pork cooked on your sketchy as gently caress rally grill (and will again in a month), if it's stupid and it works it's not stupid 
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Jun 23, 2018 15:53
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chrisgt posted:IT loving DRIVES HOLY poo poo MUCH EXCITE. gently caress yea congrats dude! That was a pretty quick reconditioning and it looks awesome.
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Jun 23, 2018 17:04
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quote:Took WAY longer than I wished it would, what's new. AI.text
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Jun 23, 2018 17:20
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Color matched pump is on its way, please don't drown beforehand.
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Jun 23, 2018 18:27
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Jun 23, 2018 19:09
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Cop must've neen bored.I once got pulled over by TXDPS, he said "Hi, I'm [name], highway patrol." and rummaged around in the trunk of his car for a minute. Eventually he returned with a little plasric box, and used it to test that my window tint was within legal specs. Upon finding that it was, he cheerily told me continue on my way. Never asked for my DL or insurance card. I guess he was just bored and wanted to try the densitometer.
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Jun 23, 2018 19:14
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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Gide us some video of it running, I need it to live vicariously through you. Edit: Also, as much as I hate them, you could install one of those obnoxious off-road LED light bars on it, as I bet those old halogen lights probably beat up the battery and generator more than a smaller light bar would. It’d probably give you more time to screw around in the woods after dusk. funeral home DJ fucked around with this message at 00:04 on Jun 24, 2018 |
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Jun 23, 2018 23:58
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I reckon the current lights are something like 18W each, judging by the size. Probably less draw than a light bar, but a whole lot less light too.
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Jun 24, 2018 02:00
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